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EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN

:IGHT YEARS IN JAPAN

1873— i88i

WORK, TRA VEL, AND RECREA TION

E. G. HOLTHAM, M.Inst.C.E.

WITH THREE MAPS

u • • «

• • •

• • «

LONDON

lEGAN PAUL, TRENCH & CO., i, PATERNOSTER SQUARE

1883

145850

{Tht rights o/translaium a$uL ^ reproduction art resefvedJ)

HE following pages have been written in an interval
leisure following upon a return home from service
in Japan, by a civil engineer who has been engaged for
several years under the Japanese Department of Public
Works. They form a record of work, travel and re-
creation, but do not olTer any formal summary of the
results of study ; though it will scarcely be supposed that
the institutions of the country have failed to impress the
writer, who has ventured to express some views that are
the outcome of his own experience and observation,
in terms that it is hoped may not be found unduly
prejudiced.

For reasons stated in their place, this work is of an
unambitious and necessarily egotistical character, and
its production may be attributed to the author's own
obstinacy in face of some discouragement arising from
the number and interest of previous works by more
accomplished writers, the list of whom includes, how-
ever, more students and visitors than actual participators

PREFACE,

in the material tasks undertaken of late in Japan ; and
as one of the latter class the author submits his tiny-
effort to the indulgence of readers.

The maps are intended chiefly to illustrate the
travels recorded ; but they contain some contribution to
the corrections by which those having local knowledge
can aid compilers.

It only remains to be stated that the "Chief" re-
ferred to in the earlier part of the book is Mr. R. Vicars
Boyle, C.S.I., to whom the author would have sought
permission to inscribe his work, were it more worthy ;
and that the "Chief Commissioner/' or head of the
Railway Bureau, is Mr. Inouye Masaru, now Vice-
Minister of Public Works, to whose energy a large
measure of the success and progress of railway work
in Japan is due.

ApHl, 1883.

* AND Kobe (1S73)

II. JoORNKV UP COUNTRV .,,

III. First Year's Work: Tsubi;

HAMA (1874)

IV. Second Year's Work; .\ka5aka, Nagi'

V. Third Ykar's Work (1876)

VI. COMI'LETIOS UF THE OsAKA-Kl

Great Rebellion of 1877
VII. HoLiDAV Trip ; Nikko, the NakasenihI,
VIIL Osaka AND TOkiyO (1877I

IX. ToKivo (1877-8)

X. TWP TO KlTJISAH A^

XL TflKiYfi (187S-9)
XII. Journey in the North (1879)

jun. TflKiva (1879-80)

^IV. TVlKIVO AND IlAKOSe (iSSO-ll

XV. JouR.vEV CROM Nagasaki to K'

Raih

MAPS AT END OF THE VOLUME.

Central Japan.

Northern Japan.

Southern Japan.

The day before our arrival in Japan was a fine Friday
in the beginning of November. We were a select few, on
this the last stage of our passage out, having dropped our
contingent to the Mediterranean garrisons at Gibraltar
and Malta, and our Egyptian merchants at Alexandria,
transferred our chaplains and frisky matrons to another
steamer at Suez, lost our only presentable maiden at
I Galle, cleared out all mothers and babies at Pcnang
land Singapore, and parted from our tea-men and
B missionaries at Hong Kong. The nine or ten remaining
I drew closer together (chiefly in a little smoking tent
■rigged up over the main hatchway of the Avoca) as we
1 lan up the China coast against the monsoon, and slanted
I over north of Formosa for the islands at the south-west
Itttremity of Japan. Clear skies and a tranquil sea
■ enabled us thenceforward to enjoy the views presented
r the ever-changing coasts, clothed in many-tinted

EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN.

woods, and indented by strangely named bays or pierced
by channels communicating with the Inland Sea, The
twin lighthouses on the Kii promontory, Oshima hiding
its lovely haven, the rugged and forbidding-looking
mountains that frowned at us across the Gulf of lai,
as we sped away eastward, rose to us and fell away ;
and then above a hazier coast-line the cone of Fuji lifted
its snowy crest into tlie blue to our left, as we ploughed
along on our last afternoon's course, towards the evening
dusk and the tiny bright guide that stood wailing for
us on Rock Island.

Our skipper was a jovial soul, always popular with |
his passengers, good for a song or two in an eveningj '
and for a private store of ripe pumelo, to be shared witl*
whomsoever would turn out and sit on the rail with hiit*
at sunrise. We induced him, by gentle pressure, to
contravene all the rules of the service by authorizing ,
the steward to serve out anchovy toast and hot grog I
at an abnormally late hour on this our last evening oH;
board. Then for the last time we had {always by special]
request) "Old Uncle Noah" (copyright), "Sandy, hei
belongs to the mill " (author unknown, music ad libitun^p\
"Lorelei" (for no less than five of us were Germans)* j
"Auld lang syne," "Die Wacht am Rhein," and "Go<J<
save the Queen " (by the whole strength of the company) 1
— and then we went to roost, leaving the skipper to keep j
the ship's head straight. |

We all got our traps into shape betimes next morn— i
ing, and I noticed that whereas the English three
rather affected the free and easy costume of the traveller, '
the Germans, and those who had been in Yokohama j

YOKOHAMA ANI> KOBE. 3

before, appeared in ceremonial garments as if to per-
petrate a series of afternoon calls, and presented a noble
and dignified appearance as we steamed up tlic Bay of
Yedo. As soon as the harbour master (for in those
days there was one in Yokohama) had come on board,
md the anchor was dropped, we were surrounded by
boats of all descriptions, from the modest one-scull
sampan, to the lordly steam-launch, and all Yokohama
swarmed on to our decks. Being fortunate enough to
get ashore in a comfortable gig, I left all my heavy
baggage in charge of a hotel tout who looked trustworthy,
nd encumbering myself only with a hand-bag steered
If the Grand Hotel, and was speedily outside a light
it of oysters and Chablis.
This accomplished, and a specimen cigarette dis-
of, two travellers, one with a brown complexion
id a yellow beard, and the other with a yellow com-
and a brown beard, wearing billycocks to match
le complexion of the one and the beard of the other,
l^ht have been descried by the glass- protected eye of
okohama fashion, wending their way towards the
Iway offices, there to report themselves as newly arrived
mbers of the engineering staff. But as it was Saturday
loon, no persons of sufficient dignity to receive them
to be found ; so the two travelling companions
ated, one to seek his friends in Tokiyo, and the
ler to go about his own devices.

An English-speaking clerk of doubtful nationality
lunteered the information that the Engineer-in-chief
ed at Ya-ma-go-ju-ku-ban, and the traveller, who
Tctly prided himself upon his accurate memory of

4. EIGHT YEARS /ff JAPAN.

syllables, set out in the direction indicated ; but the
syllables became mixed, and after trying various com-
binations of them, or others like them, the wanderer
concluded that he had better regain his hotel ; and being
tired, accepted the offer of an cconomically-clothed man
to wheel him. But the word " hotel " was not the required
talisman cither, it seemed, in this case. However, the
coolie assumed an interrogative air, and placed the tips
of his fingers together prayerfully twice ; which being
recognized as probably signifying " twenty," the number
of the Grand Hotel, which the traveller had fortunately
picked up and remembered, led to a joyful assent and
ultimate attainment of that haven.

A fresh start on lines properly laid down, was of
course practicable, but on consideration it was deemed
better to wait for Monday morning for the official
presentation ; and a second venture into the streets of
Yokohama was rewarded by the discovery of a sympa-
thetic hair-dresser, whose ministrations were highly
beneficial, conferring as they did a sense of respecta-
bility that rendered Sunday morning not such an utterly
purposeless incongruity as it had seemed since leaving
Galle. So attendance at Christ Church, after a good
night's rest, and the sight of the skipper in a tall hat and
a new pair of gloves, became a special comfort ; and a
sense of home influence was also imparted by the
assistance at the service of more than one specimen of
the bend, limp, and panier school of feminine refinement,
then in favour with the matrons of Yokohama.

The Sunday afternoon was partly devoted to the
study of the mystic syllables Ya-ma-go-ju-ku-ban; and

YOKOHAMA AND KOBE.

became apparent that a good deal depended upon how
much one might recollect of this formula, as, while the
whole indicated with sufficient exactness the residence of
the Engineer-in -chief, the last four syllables would take
one to the general store, and the last two to the devil.
However, the sacred character of the day assisted the
Ending of the "yama," or bluff, as the hill east of the
settlement is called, and the "gojukuban," or number
fifty-nine, situated thereupon, without mishap, and the
achievement of an unofficial presentation.

Monday morning duly brought about an introduction
to the service, represented by the aforesaid chief, a
director, an accountant, and a commissioner ; the last-
named being a dapper little Japanese gentleman who
understood English pretty well. He, however, adhered
to the courteous native practice of ejaculating " heh ! " at
every second word addressed to him, by way of assuring
his interlocutor that he was paying the greatest atten-
tion, and also intimating his entire concurrence in
what was said by echoing the last words of each phrase
as it came to a conclusion. After a time one gets used
to this sort of undercurrent, and can glide over it
smoothly in flowing periods; but at first it has a
decidedly interruptive effect. I remember this first
example of a native official with great pleasure, for
though I did not meet him again for two years, I had
then to act in conjunction with him, and a very good
fellow I found him to be.

Then we (for the other man had come in from what
I had supposed to be the country, but which turned out
to be the metropolis) made acquaintance with the

6 EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN.

resident engineer, and an assistant of his, and also witf
the traffic manager — all engaged on the short line oi
railway between Yokohama and Tokiyo ; and we wer(
provided with an interpreter and free passes, and
requested to make ourselves acquainted with the results
so far of railway enterprise in Japan, as a preliminaiy to
our own start upon active service, I will not venture W
say that what we saw commanded our entire approval
but it is futile now to criticise in detail the works of thfc
first railway in Japan, as it became necessary withii
a very few years to undertake operations that almos
amounted to re-making the whole line from one end t*
the other, and as events turned out this had to be don*
under my own superintendence.

Our inspection of the railway ; the concoction (purelj
as a pastime) of a design for altering the Yokohamf
terminus in case an impossible extension should b<
undertaken ; the making of short excursions into th*
country that we might become acquainted with th«
customs of the people ; a visit to Tokiyo, to look at
temples, the area devastated by the last great fire, tlrt
castle, and the engineering college ; and several en-
deavours to acquire a taste for hot water with cherrj
blossoms in it, and for raw fish with soy, filled up pari
of our leisure during the ensuing three weeks, fortunately
of faultless weather, while we were waiting for instnuli
tions. We also dined with the director, and tiffined
with the chief; attended a performance by the Amateut
Dramatic Society {Sheridan's "Critic," very well done),
and partook of such other amusements as our acquaint'
ances helped us to. But as this was not what we ha^

YOKOHAMA AND KOBE..

come out for, we were glad to receive instructions to
proceed to Koiae, and thence start up country on a survey
of some difficulty for a projected railwayacross the main-
land of japan ; and I fear I had contracted a pronounced
dislike for the scene of our enforced idleness, after our
long voyage out from England, before the Colorado,
some days overdue from San Francisco, steamed into
hsrfcour, and our coast mail-boat, the Golden Age, that
had been detained till she should arrive, at last stirred
her lazy paddies and swung about her lofty deck-houses
as she sta^ered away, rolling and pitching down the
Gulf of Yedo, against a head-wind.

The run from Yokohama to Kobe takes usually
about thirty hours ; but we had an exceptionally long
pass^e, leaving Yokohama at four o'clock on the after-
noon of a Saturday, and dropping anchor about one
o'clock on Monday. For about three hundred miles we
retraced our track of three weeks before, and then turned
northwards through the Kii channel into the Idzumi
sea, a land-locked expanse of water communicating with
the Inland Sea of Japan to the westward by the straits
of Akashi about a dozen miles from Kobe.

As we steamed up towards the harbour, a range of
snow-tipped hills, about three thousand feet high, con-
fronted us ; but these sank behind a lower and nearer
range as we nearcd the land, and the white houses of
the settlement came in view. While we were taking
our tiffin before landing we were joined by one of the
old staff, who years before had been in the same service
in India as my companion ; so we fraternized promptly.
friend led us to the Astor House, at which we had

EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN.

been (a^-wi-officiaUy) recommended to stay while iivi
Kobe, in preference to the larger and better-appointedB
Hiogo Hotel, frequented by sea-faring men, bilHarcK
players, and the consumers of cock-tails. We founds
however, that such things were not entirely unknown aB3
the quieter house in the back street.

Then, having engaged our rooms, we proceedec&-
further under the guidance of our friend to the railwaj*^
offices, where we found our consignee, the Chief Assistant-
Engineer, and sundry others of our own persuasion ; an*
formed the centre of a procession from the offices to thd '
club, taking the consulate on the way. We had oC~^
course to be registered as British subjects, and certified
and rendered poorer in worldly goods to the extent of"
five dollars each ; but it being now December, the^
worthy consul certified us as for the following year,
such liberality well befitting his dignity as the best
paid consul in Japan.

At the club we found more billiard-tables, and a
bowling alley and library; and were solemnly intro-
duced to the honorary secretary, whom we had before
seen on board in his official capacity as harbour master.
Further, we made acquaintance with about fifty wild
young merchant princes of Kobe, all of them very
atTable and condescending; and went home to our hotel
to dinner, feeling free of the place.

The idea we had formed from our observations in
the neighbourhood of Yokohama, namely, that railway
engineering in Japan was not as railway engineering
elsewhere within our knowledge, was strengthened by
what we saw at Kobe. The permanent buildings for

YOKOHAMA AND KOBE. 9

Ihe station and workshops were of iron, and had been
designed upon the assumption that all the columns
would be most suitably supported upon screw-piles ; but
when it came to erecting them, the screw-piles proved to
be not quite long enough to reach the ground when the
columns were fixed with reference to the intended rail
Icvd So the structure was propped up in the air on tem-
porary supports, while the ground was elevated, by means
of concrete in blocks and sand filling, until the screws
It the lower ends of the piles were reached and imbedded.
Hard by we found one of the engineering staff despairing
of getting into proper position a series of pegs intended
to denote the centre line of railway, on a curve, because
his theodolite was marked the wrong way round, as he
said ; but his resources were not by any means at an
end, for in our presence he instructed his foreman to set
the rails right, as near as he could, by eye alone, that he
might get his centre line by measuring from them, and
thus have no mistake as to the proper position of his
ire platforms ! We had tiffin afterwards with this
fellow — as he really was — and I don't think he
sr knew the real cause of our suddenly losing our
ivity when he mentioned for our information that the
fay had many quite unnecessary curves in it.
Other funny things did we see that day and the
It, and presently learned to keep our countenances
ier proper discipline ; and, moreover, ceased to wonder
the alleged delay in completing the line. For it
eared that the only known way of passing a stream
water eighteen inches wide under the line, was to
build a couple of walls that would have served for the

lO EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAIf.

abutments of a fifty-foot bridge, a foot and a half apart
and span the yawning gulf between them by means ot
beams sixteen inches square, of expensive timber, ol
sufficient length to have about a dozen feet at each end
buried in the embankment behind the masonry. Th«
walls were of finely worked granite, and must have cosi
a mint of money ; but a structure of this description
was to be found nearly every hundred yards.

Then we came upon two tunnels under rivers,
justified by the peculiarity of the situation, but remark-
able as being constructed for a single line only, while
a third tunnel, a little further on, was m^de wide enough
for a double line — the difference being explained by
the statement that it had always been intended that tht?
tunnels should be for a double line, but it was not found
out while the two first were being constructed that
they were not so.

We found, at any rate, that our Chief, who had not
been long in the countrj', and who had at first to make
the best use he could of a staff constituted on the basis
of taking any one to be an engineer who said he was
an engineer, and who was rapidly bringing order out
of chaos, had some justification for thinking that a few
men selected in London would perhaps leaven the
whole lump so as to render his task in the future some-
what easier, establish a healthier constitution in hi*
department, and secure for the Japanese good value for,
their money. These ends were certainly attained,'
though I will leave it to those specially interested to
say in what measure the services of the recruits of
1873-4 contributed to secure them. 1

YOKOHAMA AND KOBE.

On Ihe second day we had a tramp through to
Osaka, twenty miles, of which we rode four or five
OB a ballast engine. We crossed two considerable rivers
by the railway bridges, already completed and wanting
only the rails; and a third river we passed by boat,
the bridge being yet unfinished. What with calling
in upon three several engineers on the way, as in duty
bound, and discussing with each of them the future
possibilities of railway work, we found it falling dark
as we arrived at the wilderness that was all yet achieved
of Osaka station ; but one of our party who had left
England a few weeks earlier than ourselves, and had
already paid a flying visit to Osaka, piloted us down
to the foreign settlement at Kawaguchi (the word signi-
lies river-mouth, but docs not suggest the fact that the
river Yodo has two mouths, neither of which are near
Ibe settlement), and then we fetched the French hotel.
The landlord of this establishment did not show, except
by his substitute, a Chinese steward, who gave us some
dinner, "as to which I only remember that it was very
bad, or tliere would not have been enough of it.

Then we started in search of the Osaka club,
traversing the settlement two or three times (which
did not involve any great amount of pedestrianism)
before we hit upon the right place. So far as we could
judge by the uncertain light of the oil lamps, Kawaguchi
appeared to consist chiefly of new roads and vacant lots,
the houses that were then in existence having all their
back premises in front, and no fronts anywhere. How-
tver. we made ourselves free of the club, by the simple
process of putting our cards in the rack, and fell to

12 EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN.

billiards. One member of the dub looked in at the '
door, in the course of the evening, but he didn't stop;
and we soon tired of our game, and returned to the
hotel, to find sound sleep in our barely furnished
chambers.

After a hasty breakfast (for there was no temptation
to linger over it), and payment of an enormous bill,
we returned to Kobe in two steamers, dividing our
party of four impartiaSly between the rival boats. I
had selected the larger one, which had a deck-cabin
and was not crowded, and we were the first to stir
up the mud of the dirty river and scoop our way down
to Temposan, the western mouth ; but here the other
steamer, a cranky little screw, whose skipper had
craftily followed us down the groove we had excavated,
gave us the go-by and disappeared in a cloud of smoke,
making a noise that surely advertised to the whole of
Osaka, Kobe^ and the surrounding country, when she
was underway, and that by its cessation made the hills
aware when she stopped. Our comfortable paddle-boat
had economical engines and a cynical owner-captain
who positively snorted at us when we asked him if
he could not hurry up a little. He said he only took
passengers who weren't in a hurry, because he didn't
care to burn coal ; and further gave us to understand
that he lived on board his boat, and his dinner would
be ready quite irrespective of the time of arrival at
Kobe, This worthy is, I believe, still living in his
floating home, which he removed to China when the
Kobe-Osaka Railway was opened. He informed us that
on one occasion he had carried the Director, the Engineer-

tOKOHAATA AND KOBE. 13

in-chief, and the Chief Commissioner; and had covered
Ihem with confusion by asking firstly, what a railway
was wanted for, and secondly, what they would take
to delay the opening for another year — but could get
no satisfactory answer from any of them. I was after-
wards told by one of the above dignitaries, that the
skipper was asked how much he was prepared to put
itwn, and that the unsatisfactory issue of the negocia-
tion was thereupon inevitable.

We did arrive at Kobe in time for tiffin, much to
the disappointment of the skipper, who had hoped
that we should lunch with him, and had, I believe, shut
oiT steam with this hospitable intention ; but the wind
followed fair abafl and was too strong for him.

We found the Chief Assistant-Engineer, who was
charged to facilitate our exit from the settlements,
always ready to make an appointment for the trans-
action of business, but always unable to keep it. He
was acting agent, acting store-keeper, acting locomotive
tuperintendent, and a few other things ; and was further
engaged during great part of his day in mollifying the
»rath of every individual member of the staff under
If any man, from an engine-driver to a resident
er, had a spare half hour, he always looked up

Chief Assistant-Engineer and complained of somc-
If eligible, he was thereupon taken round to

club; if not. he was promised special mention when

next general rise of wages was setting in. As,
about tile time we were in Kobe, two engineers were
engaged in setting out the line from Osaka to Kiyoto,
and they of course had their share of complaints to

EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAlf.

make, the Chief Assistant-Engineer used to meet them
at Osaka (where, as above mentioned, there was a club),
and this made it additionally ditilicult for us to get at
him.

At last, however, after about ten days in Kobe, wa
succeeded in getting to business; and, with his assist-
ance, drew up a list of such articles as we required, and
the department was prepared to furnish. As for our
living and feeding, he gave us to understand that all
we had to do was to make ourselves comfortable, and
the native officials would get us anything in reason that
we wanted ; and referred us to the regulations, which
set forth that, while we were living in the settlements,
unprovided with quarters, we were entitled to so much »
day as allowances to cover all our expenses ; but when
in the interior of the country, we were to receive half
allowance, to pay for whatever we were obliged to have
from the settlements, and that furnished quarters and
such food as was obtainable in the district would be sup-
plied to us. In former times, he said, some foreigners id
Japanese service had insisted upon being supplied wtb
champagne and other luxuries at departmental cost;
so that it had been thought better to give the half
allowance, and let us buy for ourselves such exotic
comforts as we required ; the propriety of which course
was obvious.

So we made out our requisitions in accordance with
the official scale ; but as some few days — or weeks, or
more — might be required in order to execute the requi-
sitions properly {for which our Kobe experience had
prepared us), we did not propose to wait, but resolved

YOKOHAMA AND KOBE. IJ

to go on and make a start, hoping to make ourselves
comfortable afterwards ; and accordingly set to work to
concentrate our personal belongings, get instruments
Mid tools packed, and prepare to rough it generally.

The absolute folly of leaving Christmas behind us
•^ eloquently set forth by our Kobe friends, who pre-
dicted all manner of ill-luck for us if we started before
tie New Year ; but we had lost quite time enough
ilready, and set ofif by steamer for Osaka, on the 23rd
December, to be lost, as we were assured, in the wilds,
for the people who went away from the settlements
might of course (though they never did) come out at
the other side, but returned never ! As, however, the
farthest point to which we were bound was distant only
a hundred and thirty miles, or thereabouts, from the
Kobe club, and it was stated on good authority that
people lived more or less all along the way — on both
sides of the road, so to speak^we were ready to back our
luck with that hardened effrontery, born of experience,
which is cultivated by the race of engineers.

We did not, however, leave Kobe in quite the same
frame of mind as we started in from Yokohama. I have
never been quite able to account for the different impres-
»oii5 the two places produce upon a large number of
people. Except that Yokohama is about five times the
siie of Kobe, there appears to be no great contrast
between them in essentials. Each has its business
quarter, its villas on the hill, its native town and har-
bour. Yokohama, though it has not within a half-hour's
walk the mountains that have such a charm for pedes-
trians or lovers of scenery at Kobe, is within easy travel-

EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN.

ling distance of some lovely hill country ; Kobe,
it has not the advantage of propinquity to the met
is nevertheless entitled to rejoice in the neighbo
of Osaka and Kiyoto. together at least equal in i
to Tokiyo. Society is pretty much the same \
places, Kobe having the advantage that its numbi
not support quite as many distinct cliques as f
in the larger settlement. Both are hideous for t'
four months in the year by reason of the te;
industry that crams the godowns with dirty ar
spiring women of the lowest class, and defil
streets with their wretched children, and the neig
hood for miles around with both, morning and e
as they tramp to and from their squalid v
In both the simple children of nature — to wit,
ashore, policemen craftily concealed behind sticl
spectacles, and Chinamen patiently abiding th
when they may have amassed enough dollars fo
ease at home — form a large proportion of the
inhabitants ; in both the flags of all nations flj
consular masts, and missionaries swarm and m
in godly contentment. And yet I have never
among the people who are equally acquainted wit
places, even a respectable minority who did not
to prefer the smaller settlement and there arc
who, like myself, could, on good cause shown, \\\
die in Kobe, who never perhaps appreciated Yok
at its worth, never tried to like it or its belongin
surroundings, never rejoiced to see it before th
grieved when they left it, and who, to all inten
purposes, are as much strangers in the most imj

YOKOITAMA AND KOBE.

fiweign settSement of Japan, as if they had never been
near it. In my own case, I attribute a permanent
prejudice, which I confess with sorrow, to the fact that
I arrived in Yokohama to find I had to go farther for
a vfelcome, and that I never had anything more to do
with the place than was absolutely necessary, which
was very little. But for all that I know that there are
many good people, in the widest sense of the word, to

I be found there, and many good things are done therein.
Bokmg may it prosper 1

1 8 EIGHT YEARS IN 'J A FAN,

CHAPTER 11.

JOURNEY UP COUNTRY.

At Osaka, our personal baggage was put on board a
yana-bun^ (roof-boat) a sort of long flat-bottomed barge,
covered in for about half its length ; the sides and ends
of this central cabin being provided with sliding shutters
running in grooves above and below, so that the whole
could be closed in or thrown open for half the width ^
of each pair of shutters at pleasure. The roof of the
cabin is made almost flat, and in fine weather is a
pleasanter place than the inside, the height being less
than four feet. In front of the cabin is a space for
baggage, etc., and astern is another place for the crew,
when steering or sculling, cooking their rice, or taking
their smoke.

Going up stream the work is mostly towing, a long
rope attached to the tow-post in front of the cabin being
hauled on by the majority of the crew, who slip into \
loops of flat webbing connected with the main rope by
subsidiary cords. A steersman remains in the boat, and
when the channel and tow-path leave one side of the
river for the other, he brings the boat to the bank, and
the towing party jump on to the roof of the cabin, and

yovRNEY UP coufrrkY. 19

taking to their " ro," or bent sculls, on either side of the
after part, propel the boat to the opposite bank, where
they clamber up the slope and recommence towing.
All along the inside of the river banks where the main
channel washes them, protecting groynes of piling pro-
ject into the stream, and the rush of the water off the
ends of these groynes against the side of the boat as they
ate passed successively, adds to rather than detracts from
fte monotony of the proceeding. Generally these piles
inc interlaced with bamboo openwork, filled in with
stones, and called "ja-kago," or gravel baskets ; but in
some places the natives take advantage of the flow of
flw stream to help drive the piles, leaving them some-
what loose, so that they rock or vibrate perceptibl}' in
rush of water, and so penetrate and sink into the
ly bed — at least they say so^and the effect upon an
T of a long succession of these groynes with their
■Icady piles is rather ghostly.

About three miles an hour up stream is a fair rate of
:css ; and as all navigable rivers are subject to con-
nderable alterations of level in times of flood, and are
consequently enclosed with high earthen banks, frequently
planted with bamboo, the view is monotonous, and the
demand upon the traveller's patience is considerable.
We had to journey up the river from O.saka to Fiisliimi,
^ut thirty miles, in the yana-bun^ ; but after stowing
the boat, we sent it to the upper end of the city to wait
ft)r us, for we were bound to partake of a parting dinner
with some of the staff.

After a last look round the city, as we thought, we
found our way to the railway quarters hard by the station,

20 EIGHT YEARS /iV JAPAN.

and were greeted by a party of some dozen engineers
and others, collected in our honour. As might be ex-
pected, we found some little difficulty in getting away
from our kindly entertainers; but at last made a late
start, in jinrikishas towards the landing-place, where the
■boat was awaiting us, as we fondly hoped. An aristo-
cratic young interpreter in waiting acted as our guid^
and we reached the river, in the neighbourhood of the
Mint, in due course — but there was no boat to be found.'

We drew up under the lee of a high wall to get out
of the bitter wind, and puffed heavily at our pipes, while
the interpreter ran round to all the tea-houses in the
vicinity, finding, no doubt to his great surprise, that
people had given us up for the night, and gone in fbfi
grand supplementary and final spree, in Japanese fas
We didn't feel inclined to await the recovery of the
so we made tracks for the French Hotel ; that is,
interpreter instructed the jinrikisha drawers to take
there, and promptly disappeared, to join his friends &
their dissipation, we concluded. We were first haul
in our go-carts to the place where the French Hotel
been once upon a time, and finally, by a combination
hard swearing and good luck, we reached the settlemi
of Kawaguchi, and knocked up the Chinese steward
the French Hotel, to his intense disgust ; but the ni]
was too cold for us to stand upon ceremony, and afteC^
swallowing doses of something wet and warm, we turned
into bed. And the evening and the morning were thc
first day.

I was up at daybreak, trying stratagems to circumvent]
our evasive friends, leaving my companion to persuadi

I JOURNEY UP COUNTRY. 21

Ws particularly obtrusive and uncompromising interior
arrangements, which took dieir tone from various
tropical experiences, to allow him to make a breakfast.
About ten o'clock, after raising a great dust and many
small grins, throughout the railway offices, I managed to
collect the party, and we got into our boat, rejoicing to
find our belongings safe. Then we had another wait

k while provisions for our sustenance on the river journey
were being put on board, a very lengthy proceeding that
seemed to require the presence of the whole female
population of the neighbourhood. At last we started,
pasang in front of the Imperial Mint, a fine building
with a colonnade, and surrounded by bungalows and
barracks, with a river-wall and terrace in front : and
ilmosl opposite to the old castle of the Shogun, or the
remains thereof, unfortunately not very well seen from
lie river itself.

It was full noon when we lost sight of Osaka, and

entered upon the dreariness of the adverse stream.

dividing our time between smoking, attempting to con-

Wrsc with our interpreter and through him with the

,cidets, whom we now saw for the first time by daylight,

Bd eating as much rice as our yet undeveloped taste

f Japanese condiments permitted. Sleeping we also

s the afternoon wore on : but as the channel was

lloftuous, every ten minutes or so the whole strength of

e towing party descended, not like angels, on to the

Jfoofover our heads, and we soon gave that up.

Night fell as we put in to Hashimoto, a long village
Bine six miles short of our destination. Here we took
I more provisions, and sent on one of the cadetsi

33 EIGHT YEARS ttf JAPAN.

by road to Fiishimi to prepare for our reception there.
Then onward we went in our boat through the darkness
of the December night — Christmas Eve, too! — hcarinj
only the ripple of the water and at intervals the shouts
of boatmen as some downward-bound craft passed us, and
the crews exchanged verbal sketches of each others' family
history, pretty much as cabmen do in London streets—
at least so it seemed to us. At last we began to see
lights on the banks, and to pass under bridges, and
about ten o'clock came to a mooring by a stone landing-
place.

Here we found two old ladies with paper lanterns—
"cho-chin" we afterwards iearnt to call them (the
lanterns, that is ; the ladies were simply frumps)— an<l
were conducted with many bows, a large proportion of
■which were either missed in the dark or spoilt by our
every now and then finding that we had bumped against
a bent frump unexpectedly, to a tea-house, where W
found a table and two chairs. We sat down upon ih*
chairs promptly, and broke them both — for at that
time Japanese imitations of foreign furniture were not
creditable to native cunning — and then got our port-
manteaus and sat upon those. In due time came *■
sumptuous repast of fish, rice, and sak^ — the native bre*
— and the two old ladies fed us, in pity of our awkward'l
ness, with the chopsticks ; and then followed beds on th*^
floor, in which the two old ladies tucked us up, and leffl
us, in pity of our sleepiness.

Up betimes next morning, we manoeuvred shiveH
ingly with buckets in the verandah, and I had soma
more fish, regardless of the entreaties of my liver-i

JOURNEY UP COUNTRY.

friend ; and then we entered jinrilcishas and
started for Kiyoto, the bitter frosty air raising our
spirits if it nipped our extremities, till the sun got well
up and warmed us.

Fushimi is a great trading place, the port, as it may

be called, of the western capital Sai-kiyo, otherwise

called (upon maps) Miako, in common parlance Kiyoto,

elegantly Kamigata, and, for aught I know, half a dozen

other names. It is a poor sort of place in Japan that

hasn't two or three, and some of these may be variously

pronounced. Kiyoto itself lies about five to seven

miles away from the river, connected therewith by a

shallow canal, just capable of floating the market flats

\ that bring provisions and wares into the city. The

anal is only about thirty feet wide, and as we went

1 along the road close by we could hardly see the water

for the boats, each one in tow of two or three men, and

so jammed together that the men must have ceased to

take note of separate boats, and given themselves up to

general tugging at a floating field of vegetables and

tubs, borne on about two inches of water. However, they

\ Kemed very happy, made a great noise, and progressed

Li^iparently at the rate of five yards in two minutes. I

Bjtalculated that these must be to-morrow week's fresh

P Vegetables in the Kiyoto market, and rather wondered

I thy some more expeditious mode of transport was not

I found preferable. Fresh fish in abundance was being

, carried along the road we ourselves traversed at a fair

speed, the coolies trotting as fast as was practicable under

a load of two flat baskets, each containing perhaps a

quartet of a hundredweight of fish, slung to the ends of a

EIGIfT YEARS IN JAPAN.

flat pole or yoke borne on one shoulder and additionally
supported by a stick over the other shoulder and under
the yoke. From time to time a whole string of these
coolies would stop at a shout from the leading man,
hitch their loads forward, put the stick under the centre
of the yoke so as to support it from the ground while
they changed shoulders, and then, with the stick also
shifted over, they started on again.

We were crossing a wide cultivated space, with here
and there a grove of bamboo, towards a lofty pagoda
that rose from amongst the trees in a walled enclosure —
the tower of Toji, as I afterwards found out, part of *
group of temples at the south-western corner of Kiyoto- ■
Like most Japanese towns, almost invisible unless yo»* )
come over a rising ground towards them, Kiyoto is, aS
to its suburbs on three sides, in no way distinguishable
from the meanest village ; only the educated eye cai*
after a little time pick out the various groves and temple
roofs from a distance. On the far-famed Higashi-yam*
(eastern-hill), however, parallel to which range at about
a mile of interval we were proceeding northwards, we
could see piled-up temples and the roofs of many houses ; »
but even these we lost as soon as we reached the
streets. We were drawn at a smart trot by our men for .
a couple of miles before reaching our inn, a comfortable
little two-story tea-house, overlooking a wide, open space '
used as a bleaching ground, but being in reality, as we
soon found out, the bed of the Kamo-gawa (wild-duck
river), the pride of Kiyoto.

Here we were ministered unto by two pretty little
girls, aged about ten years, deft little maidens, a decided |

JOURNEY UP COUNTRY.

iprovement upon the old ladies of Fushimi. It being
not yet ten o'clock, wc acceded to the suggestion of our
interpreter tliat we should go to the railway offices, and
So we walked back two-thirds of the way to Toji, finding
ourselves at last in a large rambling building, looking
out upon a fine enclosed garden, with fish-pond, rustic
bridges, summer-houses, stone lanterns, etc., but evidently
selected. Here we were regaled with tea, but found
no one to receive us; so, in some displeasure, we returned
by the way we had come to our tea-house, where we
found that tlie only officials of the department then in
Kiyoto had come to call upon us, and were awaiting our
reappearance. This was better ; and with the aid of
ou interpreter, we exchanged courtesies in which the
Bitive gentlemen I am sure got much the best of us,
md found out that one of the persons present was an
Kperienced surveyor, who had received orders to go
fcrward with us and introduce us to the district.
Preparations for a start on the morrow were thereupon
Bitrusted to the native staff ; from whom wc learnt that
W should have to go by road about ten miles eastward,
ind then take boat on the lake that is called Biwa (the
Same of a musical instrument, the shape of which is not
Wlike the general outline of the lake), for the village of
«iiotsu, at its extreme northern end — the destined head-
ijiifters of our expedition — being about fifty miles by
ter. Then we were left alone, and discovered that it
5 Christmas Day !

We also discovered that the people of the house were

far used to the ways of English visitors of the railway

ptrsuasioo, that a sort of steak was obtainable ; and

26 EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN.

that the native cuisine was capable of an omelette ; so
that, with a fine mullet in addition, wc did not come off
so badly, and for the rest had we not a travelling stock
of beer and whiskey ? We duly remembered our
respective friends at home, on shipboard, and at Kobe;
and retired early to roost as we had to catch the steamer
on the lake at eight o'clock next morning, so it was
said.

We rose earlier than any lark with the slightest sense
of self-respect would have done. I ate breakfast for
the two, and as soon as my companion announced »
glimmering of tone in his constitution off we started,
our baggage and attendants being already on the road-
The morning was dull and the roads dirty, but we madff
fair progress, with three men to each jinrikisha, until we
left the city behind and began to go up hill ; that is t<y
say, for about three-quarters of a mile. Then we begai»
to form our experiences of a main road of traffic ir*
Japan, under its winter aspect.

We had heard of a certain stone tramway that hai
been laid down, say two hundred years before, on the
road between Kiyoto and Otsii, as a great engineering"
work ; and we soon came upon it. To be sure, the
surface of the road presented to the eye only mud of"
various consistencies in different spots, resembling, for
instance, ploughed fields, tempered clay for brickmaking,
sludge of a tidal river, or the slush that scavengers spoon
out of gutters into mudcarts at home, and the average
depth of this upper stratum might be roughly taken at
a little over a foot ; but now and again as our perspiring
coolies yawed about and slipped hither and thither, a

JOURXEY UP COU.VTRY. 27

Drtieel would descend into space and fetch up with the
' " :le-box on something hard. This was the tramway,
tnd near the brow of the hiil, where the stones were
bwR for a short distance, we saw it. There were two
toft's of granite blocks, with a deep groove in each row,
worn into the stone by innumerable wheels of carts
drawn by untold generations of oxen, into which grooves
Tthatsoever found its way left all hope behind. We got
fiUt of our vehicles, struggled off the road into the fields,
ind walked.

By the time our men and vehicles overtook ua, we
were mounting a second rise, after crossing a plain of
small extent shut in by hills west, north, and east, those
before us being apparently some two thousand feet
high in places. Hereabouts the road, which had been
looking better lately, relapsed into a state approaching
to dissolution, and we were told that a side road over
a small pass would be found preferable to the main
route. Entering the vehicles again we were dragged
at a fair pace along a path only just wide enough for
the wheels, through an expanse of fields laid out in steps
for irrigation, but now dry and showing the rotting
iDoLsofthe last crop of rice. Passing through a small
lillage, we reached the foot of the hill, and started to

wlk up a zigzag p

I, sometimes in a gorge, sometimes

a spur, through fir woods or scrub, but affording here
^d there a good view over the plain behind us, and
of higher snow-clad hills to the northward.
About eight hundred feet brought us to the summit,
Oy which time we had developed a decided glow; and
1*nturing here upon wheels again, were in a few minutes

28 EIGHT YEARS IN ')APAN,

reduced to a simple state of blind trust in Providence,
for we hurtled down a break-neck path, over stones,
tree roots, and water channels au naturet, round square
corners and acute zigzags, at the rate of ten miles an
hour ; and arrived, with hair on end and hearts in our
mouths, in the town of Otsu, shaken and bruised, but
unbroken and breathing.

On we sped, with many a yell from our rejoicing
coolies, who could see the end of their task, and with
many a shriek from evasive street-folk, many a stare
and ejaculation of " Ah ! bikkuri-s'to !" (meaning "What
a horribly extraordinary person," but it sounded like
an invocation to our ears), till we reached the lake-side
and a tea-house with an upstairs verandah and one
glass window, within view of the steamer that we were to ;
have caught at eight o'clock — it was now half-past nine

We had yet an hour to wait, devoted to beer and I
biscuits from our travelling store, before our interpreter
announced the steamer was ready to start, and we went
on board rejoicing, and fixed ourselves on a couple of .
chairs on the upper deck, backed by a mass of baggage ,
and sheltered by an awning. The steamer was a side-
wheclcr, as they say in America, with cabins fore and
aft of the machinery, and one small mast— about a forty
ton boat, I suppose. We found all our belongings,
private and departmental, on board already ; and loosing
from the landing-stage, started up the lake against a
cold head-wind and choppy sea, — if fresh water may be
so described.

Now as for the first time our party were united, we
could count noses. There were — ^^^B

•JOURNEY UP COUNJRY.

In the first place, six surveying coolies and a coolie-
Iter. all ready for anything, work or villainy.
Secondly, two body servants, swindlers of low degree.
Thirdly, two cadets, students of English, engineering,
1 foreign character.

Fourthly, an interpreter, head swindler.

Fifthly, the experienced native surveyor, concealed
thin six suits of clothing.

Sixthly, Englishman, weighing fourteen stone, in a
Kn o' Shanter, with brown complexion and yellow

ffd.

Seventhly, Englishman, weighing twelve stone, in a
Jengany, with yellow complexion and brown beard.

Of this party, some two or three were distinguished

the possession of a strict conscientiousness, tempered
ST a sense of humour, and the rest were otherwise

tinguished. In addition, should be mentioned Mr.

:l:, a liver-and-white pointer, and Mrs. Bella, a black

riever — both, like their masters, brimming with pro-

iional experience.

The short dull winter's afternoon came to a close
dme our voyage did ; and all that we saw of the place
lUed Shiotsii that evening was a wooden landing-pier,
Idirty street, and the interior of a neat little tea-house,
llo which we bestowed ourselves with all speed, being
fterly cold and hungry. But in due time came supper

l3 a good night's rest — ^the first on our ground.
Morning revealed to us that we were housed about

E middle of a long street of mean-looking houses, close

idcr a wooded hill ; to the north and west was an
Stpanse of rice-fields, wintry and blank. Having

30 EIGHT YEARS IN JAPA^.

breakfasted, we sallied forth to look for a starting
point, taking with us the whole strength of the expedi-
tion, arnn;d with poles, and pegs, and compasses,
binoculars, and so forth.

From the front of the village, the view down the
lake is almost shut off by a bold spur from the eastward
hills, forming a promontory that converts the northera
end of the lake into a sheltered bay some mile long
by half that width ; the village lies under the end of
a parallel spur. We walked round the shore, passing
a large Buddhist temple, and beyond, a small Shinto
shrine ; and gaining the promontory, ascended by i
rough patli up a gully to the neck of the ridge. From
this point we had a good view down the lake, which
gradually widens out from a mile and a half to thfW
or four miles wide at what appeared to be the extremities
of the ranges on cither side, the eastern shore thencC
running due south, the western side of the lake trending
back behind the hills. The scene was a charming one>
spite of the dreariness of the season ; the woods tha^
clothed the steep hill-sides were mostly fir, their dark'
green contrasting with the bright yellow of the fade**
grass in the sheltered valleys running far up betweel*
the bluffs, and the placid lake reflecting the hill-top*
on either hand and the pale blue sky between. Som^
ten miles away in front of us was a conical island^
Benten we were told to call it, though that is the nam^
of the shrine thereon, the island being really calleti
" Chikubu-shima," and far away down the eastern shorff
a dark low hill, backed by hazy peaks, was pointed out;
as the position of the old feudal castle of Hikond ^^J

•JOORNEY UP COWfTSY.

We could now see part of our work. The railway
from Kiyoto was intended to pass round the eastern
side of the lake along the low ground ; and from the
back of the narrow ridge of hills bordering the upper
end of the lake on that side, we had to find a route
through Shiotsii and northwards to the sea. Turning
our eyes to the north, and looking over the land-locked
bay and the village, the rapidly narrowing valley of a
small river, and a line of high road crowded with carts,
seemed to lead us up into another range of hills, white
k with snow, and forming the "divide" between the lake
and the sea. So we had to start with about fifteen
miles of hill work with one intermediate fixed point,
Shiotsii, through which our line was to run, connecting
the fertile plain east of the lake with the sea-coasL

As, however, we had set our faces southward to start
irith, we moved on down the steep winding path that
conducted us to another and a smaller village, with a
tiny harbour inside a stone pier, and a sort of rude
wharf in front of a few poor cottages. Temple and shrine
of course were there, the first conspicuous by its lofty
spreading roof, and the second nestling in its grove
of tall firs. Then we rose again, by a path sloping
diagonally upwards from the shore to the ridge, gaining
the summit in less than a mile, and dipping down again
sharply into the plain behind the hill ; but we stopped
at the highest point, looking over a flat expanse of rice-
field and a winding river, to a large village under the
hills bounding the plain on the far side. Then we
turned our faces homeward again, circumambulated the
two bays and intervening promontory by a rough path

32 EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAIf.

along the roctcy feet of the bluffs, and reached our tea-
house rather Icg-weaiy, for we were out of form for
walking, but hungry and in good spirits, having realized
that we had before us interesting work. The afternoon
was devoted to a stroll with dogs and guns round the
western side of the lake, while the native staff w«e
busy arranging for a move northward on the morrow.

Early on the 28th we left Shiotsu behind us, and
tramped the northward road through the valley, passing
two or three farming villages. We met strings of carts
drawn by men, women, and children, and conveying an
odorous substance — fish manure we made it out to be—
packed in bags of rice straw, and destined to fertilize
the soil round the shores of the lake. Gradually tiie
valley narrowed till the bare rice-fields became a mere
strip between the road and the stream, the rising
grounds up to the steeper hills being terraced out as
if for irrigation, but growing at this time only patches
of green vegetables and winter com.

At every step the road grew steeper; to the engi-
neering eye it was plain that even to keep the vall^
a railway would have to be on a stiff incline, while all
around the hills drew in and pushed the road and
stream from one side to the other, with here and there
rocky cliffs and scarps of highly inclined shales. About
five miles from Shiotsij, we recognized the "cross roads"
mentioned in our instructions, for the northern road
forked, while another track came in from the left over
the hill. Taking the right-hand road from the fork,
we ascended through a rough gorge for about a mJIe,
when we found the hills recede, and leave a plain

JOURNEY UP COUNTRY.

r a mile wide and nearly level ; on either side the
wooded slopes rose to a couple of thousand feet, at
a guess, but so broken up with cross valleys and bold
spurs, that it was diCIicult to estimate which of the many
peaks around migiit be the highest.

On the edge of the little plain was a large rambling
farmhouse, with walled grounds, presenting a semi-forti-
fied appearance, that was quite appropriate to so lonely
a place; but we were told that it was only a"honjin."
or resting-place for travelling magnates. Passing this,
the road dipped away between boldly terraced slopes
into a rough, winding valley, the hills also appearing
to gain in height till the scenery assumed a wild for-
bidding character ; and the road, which, although almost
■iisused. was still called the new road — " Shindo," became
very bad, with neglected bridges barely affording safe
lianiit over the cross ravines,, or the windings of the
BUin stream, that began to assume respectable dimen-
lions within a mile or two, full of clear rushing water
ffom off the granite slopes on either side. The fall was
very sharp down this gorge, till a larger stream came
tumbling in from the right, and with it a road apparently
niofe frequented. Then the valley widened out, and
look a long turn round a steep bluff to the left ; and with
our faces set due west, we sighted a large extent of cul-
tivable ground, roofs, groves, and the mouth of another
valley opening northwards, and found ourselves at
Hitida, where the other fork of the road from Shiotsu
rejoined, coming over a much higher summit on a route
considerably shorter. We were quite ready for a rest and
ifeed, for it was fully three o'clock, as we had loitered

EIGHT YEARS ItT JAPAK

on the road, interested by the scenery and the promised
difBculties of our surveying work.

Our native staff, who had been following us mourn-
fully on the tramp till we sighted Hikida, when they
broke and ran for the inn and its delights, were ready
as soon as we had stoked up ; and on emerging from
the tea-house we were introduced to a couple of native
officials, who had been sent out from the town of Tsurt^
by the governor of that place to escort us in. Tb^
were two middle-aged, hardy looking men, with the
usual array of swords, barely concealed under heavy
cloaks, and carried long staves, the more peaceful
mark of authority. After a few courtesies that seemed
indispensable, we proceeded on our way, tramping
sturdily along a good road, on which we met several
jinrikishas — a sign of some sort of progress in the
district we were approaching. About three miles down
a pretty valley, beside the winding rushing river, brought
us to the plain, and in sight of a long dark fir wood
stretching away to the left, and to the right the roofs
of a large town lying under a wood-clad hill. This was
Tsuruga, our destination ; and we reached it in the
dusk, passing through squalid-looking streets, over oK
or two bridges, and into a courtyard, at one side of
which was a large shrine, and on the other a neat build-
ing, in front of which our escort left us.

We proceeded to make ourselves at home, our host*
being a set of priests of a very inquisitive persuasiod-
By the opening of our travelling canteen their attentiof^
was diverted to tJie servants' room till after dinner, wheOi
with pipes alight, we felt more sociable,

JOURNEY UP COUNTRY.

teach them cribbage. One of them, probably the rising

genius of the place, learnt to detect what he called

"Snob" after a very little practice, and every successful

shot of his was hailed with shouts of applause from his

superiors. When bedtime came, we confided the cards

to his care, and so got rid of the godly crew, who

wired to discover "Snob" till they were satisfied.

We were gratified next morning by a visit from the

who accompanied us out to the shore, and

ice to what it appeared had already been fixed upon

the site of the station, somewhere west of the town,

In a large sandy tract overgrown with the fir wood we

had seen in the distance the previous afternoon. As

this was very much like fixing upon the wide world as

the scene of action, we were not much helped by the

worthy governor's information.

Tsuniga is situated at the extremity of a deep
indentation in the coast-Une, forming a fine bay some
ten miles long from north to south, and perhaps three
to five miles wide, but of very irregular shape. Lofty
Bills surround it, coming steep down into the water al
lU the advanced bluffs, but with sandy strands and
Ming villages in between. Our survey was to end,
for present purposes, at the south-west comer of the
My, a future extension being contemplated to a sheltered
'Mdstead under the lee of the highest of the western
kills.

At the request of our native staff, who had been
*nwillingly dragged away from their homes in Osaka at
"lie end of the year, we remained three or four days in
Tsuruga, it being a far more eligible place for merry-

EIGHT YEARS T!f JAPAV.

making than Shiotsu. The last two days of the year
are always devoted in Japan to settling up one's aSain;
and this sometimes means serious business. As one of
my interpreters in after days, explained, " It is very sad
for poor people," — here he laughed gaily ; — " they throw
themselves into river or well, or die hanging down from
tree, — and there are many robbers who wish to get
money." However this may be, once the 3iBt of
December is past, universal jollity seems to reign, and
visiting, kite-flying, and battledore and shuttlecock
occupy old and young of both sexes. I confess we found
it dull, though we cruised about the bay, and went after
such game as the country aiforded, and were glad when
the day came on which we had decided to leave Tsuruga
and its delights.

We returned to Shidtsti over the short route
between Hikida and the "cross roads," the route lying
south-west from Hikida about a mile, up a rapidly
rising valley between high hills, when the road turns
into a narrow and tortuous gorge, and a very steep pull
up a zigzag road conducts to the summit A good view
is obtainable to the westward over the valley we had
left, with its foaming stream and winding road, leading
to another port on the lake — Kaidzu, at the bottom of
the deep bight behind Benten.

The road was crowded with pack-horses, mostlj'
carrying the same odoriferous load we had already made
acquaintance with, each horse led by a man, who also
carried a sack on his back and appeared to like it
About a mile south of the summit we came to a place
where the loads were shifted, the pack-horses returning

•JOURNEY UP COUNTRY.

to Tsuruga, and the load going forward upon two-
wheeled trucks. These are propelled in the following
manner: — A-hcad go the mother and the eldest son,
hauling on ropes ; the father of the family, or the
strongest of the lot at any rate, pushes upon a transverse
bar fixed to the front of the frame ; and behind small
boys and girls shove lustily at the truck, the sacks, or
I wherever they can lay a hand, all working like steam-
engines and looking as hard as nails,

The six miles of road from this place, Kukasaka,
like it out of the whole party, however, before they get
irough, for the road is a vile one, constructed on the
fine old native fashion, of stones of any shapes and sizes
at can be picked up handy, chucked into the worst of
e pre-existing holes, and levelled with loose earth and
nd. Such a road is a succession of holes from one
id to the other, separated only by the largest stones,
'er which the wheels have to be lifted, hauled, twisted,
renchcd, slewed, or otherwise forced every yard of the
»y. The wheels are not above two inches wide in the
m, so wherever there is a gap down they go and jam,
ill, by swaying the whole truck bodily from side to side,
stones are forced apart, leaving a new hole for the
t comer. The amount of work required on a level
1 of this description, is rather more than double what
it would be on a rough up-hill road of any other kind.

To go up-hill with a load is almost impracticable ;
but here the bulk of the traffic is all down-hill, and
goods going north are carried on pack-horses, the trucks
going up from Shiotsii light

We had left instructions at Shiotsu for the people to

EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAy.

look up suitable quarters for us, and on our return wcr
at once inducted into a portion of the priests' hous
adjoining the Buddhist temple ; a poor place indeec
but the best to be found, having a look-out upon a nea
little private garden under the hill. Here we rigged uj
an American stove, and got some glass inserted into tli«
sliding shutters, and made out for a while, starting on
survey work by running base lines southward froa
Shiotsii.

Our friend the experienced native surveyor gave ai
up as soon as we set to work, and returned to Kiyotc*.
He had not been of much assistance to us, as he was
not an accomplished linguist, and did not seem on good
terms with the interpreter. We used to siwculaie upon
his reason for wearing so many suits of clothes, making
out at last that it must be for the sake of the sleeve-
pockets, in which he carried a specimen of every known
description of instrument for measuring distances and
taking obsei-vations. Had we travelled much at night
we should have had no hesitation in asking him for a
celestial globe, a fifteen-inch refracting astronomical
telescope, or an oxy-hydrogen illuminating apparatus-
He would merely have sighed, twisted himself bto
another pocket or two, and produced the article re-

quired.

CHAPTER III.

riRST year's work : TSURUGA, SHIOTSU, AND
NAGAHAMA (1874).

Now that we were actually at work, a minute chronicle
or our daily life became out of the question. When one
istravcliirtg, the regular notes are easily made, and may
be worth keeping — names of places, heights of barometer
Md thermometer, distances, times, weather, obstacles,
Md so on ; but when stationary, such details as have to
1* recorded become little more interesting than a book
of Ic^aritbms — useful for reference on occasion, but
mere weariness in compilation and unattractive, to say
the least, to the general reader. To us, the field work
had to do was interesting in itself, though it would
Be too much to hope that the arcana of mountain
Wn'eying could by any explanation be so unfolded to
Itosenol already educated in professional technicalities,
*3lo make plain our reasons for rejoicing at the accom-
plishment of the successive steps, by which we reduced
to order and planned upon paper the main ridges,
wUeys, gullies, obstacles, and other features of the
Munlry, and produced a first proposal for a route, to be
before our Chief in due course.

40 EIGHT YEARS /.V •JAPAW

We were three after the middle of January; and
ivhile I remain always I, it is convenient to have done
with descriptive epithets, and call my first companion
simply Tom, and the new-comer James. Other Toms
and Jameses indeed there were, but not of my party, in
the season of 1874 ; so let that pass. We were all thr«
pretty much of an age, just terminating; our lusty youth.
Tom, the absolute senior among; us, had seen many
lands, and, as be used to say himself, if all he had seen
and done were put into a book, no one would believe
it. James had experience of India and Australia, whi!^
I had the advantage of no previous work abroad^
When James arrived from the settlement, he handed
me a bundle of papers from the Chief Assistant-
Engineer, and we then perceived how ingeniously **
had been sold by our friends at head-quarters. Otl*"
arrangements for comfort up country had all been mad^
under the regulations in force for 1873, no hint of any
alteration as being contemplated reaching us. But i*
had been decided that from the beginning of 1874, that
is when we were safely out of sight, the department
would cease to supply anything for private use, except
an allowance in money, reducible if we stopped more
than fourteen days in any one place. So the Chief
Assistant gave me to understand that the articles
ordered by the department for our use had been
countermanded, and we might make our own arrange-
ments for the future.

When I explained this to Tom — James, who kneir
it all before starting, but had taken no steps in the
matter without consulting me, grinning sardonically

ically the

FIRST YEAR'S li'ORA'.

were seated gingerly upon Japanese-made
1 either side of our most ambitious piece of
iBiture; it had been a washing-stand, but as we
tcted tubs and buckets for all ablutionary purposes,
t had filled in the recess designed for the basin, and
■idea table of it. As the horrid truth came home to
ir countenances passed through the various phases
II amazement, indignation, and so on. into a final ex-
ssion of positive admiration for the practical nature of
le joke, and we burst into a roar of laughter that shook
Wr chairs into spillikens. and as we sat amid their ruins
on Ihe mats, rattled the loose board in the top of the
table out of its bearings. It was really like a piece of
Briequinadc, in which we represented the unsuspecting
>*licemen, the amiable shopkeeper, or the people intent
*Iy upon business ; and the down, pantaloon, and
■irlequin were played by— bigwigs too awful to be
lidicated here.

Of course our only resource was to request the
Uthorities at Kobe to forward us the things we
Wquired, and without which, but for our noble en-
Unisiasm for work, we had better not have started ; and
pwding their arrival, we proceeded to finish off" our
*uthem base lines and start north, working our way
itadily through to Tsuruga, and taking levels as we
The work was tedious, owing to the roughness
if the ground, the frequent falls of snow, the amount of
d-cutting necessary, and the obligation of accuracy,
B being the basis of the future permanent work, By
f end of March we had all ready for the Chiefs first

42 EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN.

Our native staff afforded us considerable amusement
With some additions to the force, by whom James had
been accompanied up country, we had now two inter-
preters, three cadets, and two paymasters — the latter
being by far the most important men of the expedition,
and reputed, as we found afterwards, to be the real
railway riiakers, so many coolies and foreigners being
employed in the rough outdoor work of the job under
their orders. Tom and I had of course no knowledge
of the native tongue to start with, though we soon picked
up enough to enable us to get along very well with
those of our men who did not happen to know any
English. They were all wonderfully quick at seizing
the idea of any of>eralion that had to be carried out,
and a mere hint, conveyed, perhaps, in the one in-
telligible word of a halting sentence, set them off, with
eager childlike glee, to cut down trees, set up poles, and
manceuvre with chains and staves. They kept their
sharp black eyes fixed upon us with breathless interest.
as we sat sometimes on the sunny side of a bank,
making calculations that resulted in the circumventing
of physical obstacles, and resumption of the right path
beyond ; and when from some commanding elevation
we could look back over the way we had come, and
prove our work right, a general broad grin of satisfaction
and chorus of "Naruhodo!" showed their sympathy
and admiration. The great difficulty we found in the
language, was the proper use of verbs ; but here an
undoubted assistance was found in the auxiliary polite
termination "mas'," which should not, in strict pro-
priety, be used in giving orders to persons of decidedly

FiaST ¥EA/tS WOHh. 43

inferior class, and qo doubt accounted for many con-
temptuous smi!cs on the generally impassive coun-
tenances of those superior persons, the interpreters, when
we happened to dispense with their intervention. The
use of the said " mas'," however, had the great advantage
of enabling the men to distinguish when we meant to
I nse a verb, which, of course, implied that something was
\ lobe done, nine times out of ten ; in fact, we generally
made the verb, of which we were none too certain, as in-
distinct as possible, and brought in the termination,
"mis' ! " with great aplomb, whereupon the two or three
I most intelligent and enterprising men started off to do
15 many different things, actuated by guesses at what
I *aa required ; and the unsuccessful gucssers had a good
Itugh at their own discomfiture, and united in " chaffing "
Ifemcn who had hit the right nail on the head.

For instance, if we wanted a small tree cut down,

» a pole brought a little nearer, or a small quantity

I »f paint applied to the top of a stake — three ideas of

J "small" that should properly be expressed by altogether

I Wcrent words in Japanese — the usual formula was,

'Hoi ! chiisai (pronounced cheese-eye) mumblc-mumble-

I liiim<hum-mas' 1 " and a wave of the hand, or a glance

[Ofthceyc, or a preliminary handling of an instrument,

ffve an additional hint, that nearly always brought

bout the desired result, in considerably less time than

t would have taken to explain in English to an

Werpreter what was wanted, and get him to pass it on,

pith all his own misconceptions, to one of the men. Oh,

e verbs ! how we used to sweat at them, to use a

choolboy term ; and how persistently we found our-

EIGHT YEARS- m JAPAN.

selves telling people to go when we wanted some one
to come, and to run when standing still like grim death
was required ! In my young days I used to flatter
myself that I was quick at languages ; the result, how-
ever, of taking up a Japanese grammar or vocabulary
was generally prompt slumber ; and in the hot season
I used to invoke nature's sweet restorer, otherwise »
stranger, by this simple process, and might have been
discovered at the proper time and in the proper plftA
by any one who should intrude upon my privacj-, uwiff
a mosquito net, with a book on the floor beside me, and
a heavenly smile upon my countenance, murmuring in
grateful dreams the names of Satow or Aston, belo\*e<i
while yet unknown in the flesh.

Perhaps the greatest confusion of ideas we achieved
was when we tried to give to a cadet who understood
but little English, with the aid of an interpreter who
understood very little more, some account of the steps
by which an intricate calculation was brought to yield
up its due result. Then we enjoyed the satisfaction
of finding that the Japanese language was as poor in
the way of expressions suitable to the terms of such
an operation, as we were in respect of verbs in the
native lingo. Dimensions, angles, lines, and planes all
became mixed, like an approaching nightmare, and
many a hopeless fog did these hapless cadets get into
in the morning and wander in all the rest of the dajf.
I believe that a suspicion entered the minds of some
Japanese friends that we used sometimes to
begin a calculation, and excite their curiosity, about
lunch time, for the purpose of leaving them in the

FIRST YEARS WOgK. 45

after attempted explanation, while we craftily
went about our own devices, with an eye to pheasants.
The facts, however, did not Justify their suspicions, as
Bret Harte puts it, "to any great extent," for pheasants
pair very early in Japan ; at the best of times in a
thickly wooded country they are difficult to get at ; and
tor my own part — well, I'm a very bad shot.

Wc had a little establishment, house, office, store
ind so on, not only in Shiotsu, but another also in
Hikida, over the range, whereat James was chiefly
sutioned, Tom being at home at Shiotsu most of his
time, and myself alternately with one and the other
a the work progressed, the native staff being divided
between the two, and the odd cadet accompanying
tne backwards and forwards, generally provided with
iivery small portmanteau containing his home garments
—for in the field they came out, like ourselves, in long
boots, short jackets, and Scotch caps complete,— and
a very large brass-bound box, which he said was
The interior of the said box was never
kble witliin the scope of my observation ; but as we
) our own sins to answer for, it was perhaps just as
U we never penetrated this mystery.
Our house at Shiotsu was very retired ; but at Hikida
(were in the main street of the village, a place about
half the size of Shiotsu. At each station was to be
found a glazed window, a drawing-table and a copying-
press, and a barrel of beer; and the boys had instructions,
whenever anybody came in from the field, to bring a
long tumbler, fill it from the barrel, and place the same
ion the table without asking any foolish questions

EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN.

or wasting time in preliminaries. In consequence of
Tom taking unto himself a wife, and bringing her up
country to preside over the district, the office arrange-
ments were removed to a separate room on the other
side of the temple at Shiotsii ; but at his particular
request the barrel was left in the house, as being safer
under his eye.

Early in April our Chief came up from Kobe, and
inspected all the preliminary work ; finally authoriEit^
me to stake out a pernnanent centre line, with maximum
gradients and minimum curves, uniform with the general
characteristics of a system of railways already roughly
blocked out for the whole of central Japan. This gave
US what was needed to start us upon the actual worit
of ranging out the line over hill and dale. At the same
time he sanctioned Tom's matrimonial visit to Tokiyit
and announced that he was going to send me another;
assistant, and that I was to study about ten miles of;
the low ground south of my previous limits, and set
about the line through there. As Tom had a few days
to spare before he started down country, and felt, a»
may be supposed, rather restless and unsettled under
the circumstances, he and James made an excursion
together and ran base lines through the new length,
while I started the centre line at the summit of the
ridge, where we were to have a tunnel of a mile aod
a quarter long ; and this point once settled there were
of course two ends to work at, irrespective of the ]ia«
in the plains.

Of course in all our preliminary work we had selected
the easiest ground to get through upon, running oirt

FIRST Y£A/PS WORK. 47

I main survey lines along the valleys where we could ;
Ibut our centre line was necessarily over very much
T rougher ground. The straight line between the two
bids of our main tunnel mounted high on to the wooded
Jges ; and though the open ends were as low down
n the gorges as would clear the water that in storm
ushed off the slopes in torrents, our lines could not
pllow the inclination of the main valley ; for we had
l.to keep an even gradient, while the valleys themselves
■ were of course steep in their upper gorges and less
■clined as they approached the low ground ; so that
■ibout midway between the main ridge and the plain
e railway had to be high up on the shoulders of the
transverse spurs, winding round or piercing them, and
ining cross gullies and ravines in many places of
t highly precipitous character. Every yard of this
p)und had to be studied, the contour of each spur
i gully reduced to plan and referred to previously
tained data ; and all this in forest so thick in some
. that with thirty woodcutters at work and all
es settled, we frequently could barely make
: hundred and fifty yards a day. In the roughest
p*rt of this work James bore me company, or carried
it forward alone while I was away ; and so conscien-
tiously did he work it out that when finally I laid the
gradient line denoting the levels of the future railway
upon the section from the summit to Hikida, I found
that in no place was it possible with any advantage to
deviate from the theoretical gradient on which we had

bbeen working. But we were yet far from this result
Ib the spring of 1874.

EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN.

Down in the plains it was another story altogetl
Here we had the rivers to deal with as a principal feature,
and a Japanese river is no joke. This is owing to the;
sharp contrast that exists nearly everywhere between
hill and plain. On the one hand you may have stretching;
for miles an expanse of rice-field almost as flat as eH
table, permeated by a network of irrigation streams,
feeders, and outlets, and broken only by a few main
rivers with lofty banks ; and at the same time, on the
other hand, you may be within a mile, as the crow flies,
of ridges three thousand feet high. In spite of the
forest, and as this forest is destroyed, necessarily in a
more marked degree year by year, the rains rush down
the precipitous slopes and hurtle out of the gorges on-
to the plain, laden with debris, boulders or gravel,
triturated to all degrees of fineness. If the country
were still in a state of primeval nature, the mouth of
every gorge would be marked by a symmetrical mound
of this dt'bris. deposited in a fan-shaped heap, where the
waters spread out over half the compass to inundate
the plain ; but from immemorial times the farmer has
been at work. Commencing from small beginnings
on the borders ot some minor stream, defined by chance
features of the land, to level his little field and dig his
little channel, leading from above a rude dam between
two convenient rocks, he and his fellows have gradually
come face to face with the destructive aspect of the
rushing stream in flood time ; and now, though only
about one-sixth of the actual area of the country is
under wet cultivation, this has nearly all been wrested
and held from the periodical domination of the rain-

J'lJlST YEARS WORK.

floods by works of undoubted skill, simple in form
though they be.

Travellers between Kobe and Osaka, by the railway
that near the Kobe end runs along the foot of the hills,
are sometimes astonished by the information that the
tUQnels they pass through are not pierced through hilly
ground, but built beneath the river-beds, and that the
ictual mound above them marks the course, nearly dry
forthree-fourthsof the year, of a mountain torrent banked
up upon its own deposit by the labour of the tillers of
the adjacent lands. This type repeats itself throughout
the country on various scales of magnitude. Japan, a
country of no great breadth in any part, and highly
elevated in the middle districts, possesses but few rivers
flat can be called navigable even for small craft. They
lostly of the character of torrents and vary in
;»olume according to the season, in many cases from
mere thread of water wandering amid a waste of
Ingle, to a roaring sea of flood imperilling the lives
property of the scared and anxious villagers who
igregate to watch and strengthen their crumbling
ibankmcnts.

So on the southern division of our survey we had
river to tackle, consisting of two forks, issuing from
range of hills that culminate to the southward in the
Id bluff of Ibuki. Both branches have banks elevated
twenty to thirty feet above the plain ; and by
iting they enclose a wedge-shaped district, also watered
the intermediate hills, and badly drained, in a dry
ion by flood-gates that close against the main river
when its waters rise, and when the rivers are in flood by

EIGHT YEARS /iV JAPAlf.

a long wooden conduit under the bed of the less impor-
tant fork, with an outlet to the lake shore distinct from
the mouth of the united main streams. The two forks
are called Ane and Imoto — the elder and the younger
sisters — and are from the hills to their junction almost
hidden, in spite of their lofty banks, in fir woods and
mulberry plantations.

The work of reducing this district to an intelligible
plan was not, however, seriously commenced till Jun^
when my third assistant, Charlie, joined me. In April,
after Tom's departure, and in the early part of May, I
was alone at Shiotsii, having nothing of interest to
chronicle except a chance visit from a passing school
teacher on his way to Kanasawa on the west coast : and
a " matsijri " or religious festival in the village itself; tk
first I had seen. I was forewarned by a round-robin
from the officials, requesting me to stop at home on the
great day, because my bearers who usually trotted up to
the ridge with me in a " kago," a sort of basket-work
chair designed to torture those not blessed with flexible
knees and ankles, wished to join in the revels. I didn't
see the necessity of stopping at home, but trudged it out
to the summit that day, to the intense disgust of the
staff, and got through a fair day's work, returning to
the village about dusk, and finding the place all out of
window, so to speak, and the main portion of the popu-
lace excited with drink and religious fervour. The
"mikoshi," a sort of ark supposed to contain the god
from the village shrine, was reposing in a very lop-sided^
condition against the front of the biggest inn, while the
bearers thereof, being all the able-bodied young men of

ing men ol

flFST YBAKS WORK. S'

le village, who had dressed themselves in a Jcind of
uniform tunic of scanty dimensions, were whooping and
leaping about the road, and the female part of the com-
munity were standing around, clapping their hands and
singing out " Omoshiro ! " to signify their joyfulness.

I made my way past with the assistance of one of
the village elders, who cuffed and implored and objur-
gated the noisy crew, and reached home, to find that the
priests next door were having a " good time " over a
feast of all manner of delicacies, from turnip-tops to
cuttlefish, washed down with saki5. As soon as they
sighted me strolling in the garden, they haled me in
with hospitable violence, and in a quarter of an hour
made me quite ill with their cuttlefish and pickles, so
that I was glad to retire ; and having left ray pipe on the
edge of the verandah, it was returned to me by a trio of
acolytes, whom in revenge I made ill with some Scotch
whiskey.

Just as I was recovering sufficiently to sit down to
dinner, a hideous row outside made me at first suppose
that a general massacre had commenced ; but on going
out to see, I found it was only the ark being taken home
to the shrine, more lop-sided than ever, and sometimes
horac on the shoulders of the coolies, at other times in
the ditch with a heap of them on top of it. But the
women-folk were still crying "Omoshiro" and clapping
their hands indefatigably, so I supposed it to be all right
and went back to my modest fare; and I conclude the
deity reached home ultimately, and was tucked up by
Wb ministers. The " kago " bearers were very prayer-
ful-kneed next day.

52 EIGBT YKAKS /V JAfAN.

A st31 more solcma functtoa took plac« a few d^
aftenrards, being no less than the removal, with daa
revereiKc, of the remaitts of a bj-gone Mikado from thar
resting-place in the province of Kaga, to Kiy&to, wheie
the tombs of his kind are mostly to be found ; the route
being through Tsaniga and Hikida, and thence along
the western shores of the lake, James sent me word
that be had been requested to stop at home, as it was
supposed that the sight of foreigners about the route
would not be altogether proper ; but I went over cm^
to Hikida and joined him.

Just as I arrived, an attempt was being made l»
close up our office windows looking on the street;
this was successfully resisted. Shortly before the pny
cession was due the head-man of the village called, uid
remarked that the floor of our room, elevated !
eighteen inches above the road, was too high a place
for any one to occupy with decency. This was explained
to us by the interpreter, who said that all Japanese were
ordered to kneel down, or rather squat, wirh their hanib
on the ground, on each side of the road as the procesaoo
passed. We were disposed to scoff, but better coanseb
prevailed, and as the head of the procession entered tha
village we relieved the anxiety of the head-man, it^iidl
I believe was genuine on our behalf, by stepping fortk
from the window into the road ; so that our feet at least
were no higher than other people's, with which concession
to popular prejudice they had to be satisfied.

First came a gang of coolies, sweeping away the last
impurities from the road, which had the day before beea
mended and strewn with clean sand, and kept clear 01

FIRST YSAIfS WORK.

ffic from the evening. Then came an advanced guard
of about a score of soldiers in heavy marching order ;
and then the head-man of the village in ceremonial gar-
ments, over all the " kami-shimo " (a sort of stiff linen
puzzle of skirts and shoulder-wings, which we thought
derived its name, equivalent to " tops and bottoms," from
-the uniformit}' of its appearance whether put on rightly,
br upside down, or wrong side before), and two swords
■■ course. Then followed our friend the Governor of
T'suruga, with some of his aides ; then more soldiers ;
and then about sixty coolies, in new loin-cloths and
head-wrappers, bearing the sacred casket. This was a
large chest, about ten feet long by four wide and two
deep, of what material was not apparent, for it was con-
cealed in a green cloth bearing the Imperial crest (the
o^'santhemum) in yellow. The chest in its cover was
lashed to the under side of a stiff fir-pole of a whole tree,
l^uite fifty feet long. In front and behind the casket
ere cross-pieces, at cither end of which were smaller
MS-pieces, put a little on the slant so that each end of
these subsidiary pieces could be conveniently borne by
two coolies with a small yoke between theni, forty-eight
carriers in all, and twelve men to change about in turns,
the relieved man trotting along light for a few yards at
a time before going in at a fresh place. The whole
sixty were uttering the guttural cadence, without which
it is well known that no progress can be made by a
Japanese porter under a load.

Behind the casket came at}out half a dozen awful

fells — "kug<5," or court nobles, we were told they were —

iiing solemnly along, in flowing sUks, green, yellow,

EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN.

or purple, each ornamented atop with a peculiar chimn^
cowl-shaped cap of black lacquered pasteboard. Then
more soldiers ; and then a number of little boys, some
in tall hats, dress coats, and white neckties and gloves,
and some in gold-braided caps, and frogs and buttom.
being the civil and military officers of the party, all in
jinriktshas and talking at the tops of their voices.

As the casket approached the spot where we stood,
our little interpreter, who had stood irresolute while alt
around us squatted down and bowed their hcad^
whispered confidential 3y, "I must obey the law of mj'
country," and down he went too. James and I wete
guilty of the bad taste of standing up, which was, 1
suppose, set down to the score of our ignorance, and
were above a little relieved as the procession passed b/
without any notice being taken of us. As the last little
boy in a tall hat disappeared into the court of the
" honjin," we sat down to our table and resumed woit
on our plans and sections, and saw no more of the
affair.

In this month of May we did at last get the means
of making ourselves somewhat comfortable in our
quarters. Tom, like a wise man, had, in view of his
special responsibilities, ordered some furniture from
Tokiyo, which arrived about the same time as the Kobe
supply ; but all the same he had subsequently to pay
his share of the demand made upon us by the depart-
ment, as from the beginning of the year, an arrange-
ment which commended itself to the wisdom of our
superiors as being likely to please the Japanese
authorities ; and I am sure I hope some one was pleased

F/XST YEAFTS WORK. 55

jb the matter. We were in the course of events con-
mnced that those responsible for railway interests in
3*pan entertained the hope, that if some small economies
irere effected in the survey accounts, the government
would be encouraged to expend several millions in
biiway enterprise ; but somehow the connection between
the two financial operations was not satisfactorily
established, and the petty policy by which we suffered
did not achieve success.

Graver differences afterwards became added to the
Niginal dispute, but I do not propose to weary any
reader by enlarging upon this side of our experiences.
It has happened to me, on my way to middle age, to
meet at one time or another with a great variety of men
with grievances, who were very jolly fellows so long as
they could be induced to forget them, but intolerable
bores otherwise ; and so in preparing this narrative I
bave carefully confided to a quire of black-cdgcd paper
the materials for a chapter on the management and
direction of the Railway Department of Japan, just as
Kr. Dick separated his views about Charles the First
tern his other writings, upon good cause shown: and
propose to omit the said chapter carefully from this
therwise veracious work.

The suspicion with which we were officially regarded
id. however, some ludicrous developments during our
faarly times up country. Before leaving Kobe I had
d with the obliging honorary secretary of the
it we should have some reading out of the library
noble institution ; and soon after arriving in the
a box was prepared, with lock and key, for the

EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN.

conveyance of books backwards and forwards, a dupli-
cate key being sent to the honorary secretary. A marked
catalogue was nailed inside the lid of the box, which
was duly despatched from Shiotsu, and was no more
heard of for several weeks. It was at last delivered
to its destination, with the lock broken and the catalogue
abstracted, and no satisfactory account could ever be
obtained as to where the box had been, or how subjected
to such usage ; but a hint was afforded that the despatch
of an empty box to Kobe was a sort of thing that
nobody could understand. Probably the suspected case
was taken to Tokiyo for inspection by the Prime Minister
and the Council of State, and the catalogue iinpoundflf
as evidence in the event of any disaster arising out of
the affair, or any scheme generally subversive of the
dynasty and government coming to light subsequently.

We were well assured that regular reports were
forwarded by the native officials attached to the surveyii^
parties, as to the conduct of the foreigners ; and very
curious documents these must have been. After a time,
however, we did succeed in getting rid of the worst of
our official surroundings, to the great peace and content*
ment of alt parties.

We were not much troubled by the dreadful rumouri
that reached us as to the Saga rebellion, which broke
out in 1874 ; though the weekly newspaper we received
from Tokiyo of course represented the case of all
foreigners engaged in the interior, no matter how many
hundreds of miles away from the scene of disorder, as
hopeless. Our native staff seemed to look upon the
affair as of no importance, and the fate of the defeated

FJSST YEA/rS WOSX.

decapitated leader, Yeto Shimpei.as simply a some-

t farcical climax to a ridiculous episode. In this
able, however, the telegraph did good service, by
iping the central government well informed of the

lal progress of events, and enabling the expenses
transporting troops and war material to be restricted

absolute requirements. Though for several years
lerwards the telegraph department did not return
commercial profit, there can be no doubt that it was

rth far more than its cost to the government even

B early.

When Tom had returned to work, and made himself
; borne at Shiotsij, and my new assistant Charlie
joined, the latter and I set to work in the neigh-
Urhood of the Ane and Imoto ; and a fine time we
of it, in the early rainy season, amongst the
[uitoes. All through June and July we struggled
the weather and the heat, working out with compass
tile morning, and laying down our traverses on paper

the afternoon, till we reduced the chaos of rivers
i irrigation streams to shape. When, in the middle

July, the extreme summer heat commenced, we had

take some precautions, and generally rose by lamp-
^t, getting on to our survey-ground as soon as it was
^ enough to distinguish an object a hundred yards

ly. Then we went at it with all our energies till

lit nine o'clock, when a spell off for claret and

er and a biscuit was called, and we resumed our
He, sweltering under our sun-hats, and getting nasty
our tempers, till noon or sometimes later; when, if
vas a practicable road near, we sought our jinri-

kishas thereon, and if not trudged home as best we
might

Well do I remember waiting, some of these summer
noons, in the shade of some friendly grove by the road-
side, listening anxiously and hungrily for the far-off
sound of wheels, and contrasting the almost deathlike
stillness around with the screaming, shrieking, humming
and chattering life of the early morning or the houra
just preceding sundown. In the villages, as we passed
the open doors or half closed shutters, a glance into the
gloom within showed us the wearied labourers lying like
corpses on the mats in the dreamless sleep of physical
exhaustion ; not a soul was abroad but the hungiy
engineers and their jaded followers.

But, then, once under the roof of our temporary home
in some rustic tea-house ; once the buckets of well-water
had gone hissing over our baked shoulders and throbbing
napes ; once the invigorating nip of vermouth, or quinine
and sherry absorbed, and the smell of the fried hain
coming in from the cooking corner— -we could appreciate
the promise of the pipes and pouches ready in tempting
array upon the long chairs in the verandah, and gra-
dually realize the glory of renewed strength. Then the
placid smoke in the drowsy afternoon ; the energetic
wake up to put the morning's work upon paper ; the
second sally forth with towel in hand to some pool
under the shadow of the bamboos on the river bank;
the stroll round the temple or out into the fields to the
little cemetery ; the simple dinner, glass of grog, final
pipe, dive under the mosquito-net, and good night!
We were not so badly off, Charlie and I, this sweltering

FIRST YEAR'S WORK.

July, and we each thanked the powers above that the
other didn't snore.

This extreme summer heat, though reaching 92°
to 9;' Fahr. in the shade — I never knew it any higher
by any trustworthy thermometer in a fair situation, — is
not nearly so exhausting as the damp heat of June,
when the thermometer is 10° to 15° lower, and the
young rice is being planted out in the wet plains, and
,lbe mosquitoes that before were only playfu! become
fevilishly energetic ; when the rains are over they
ippear to get tired about mid-day.

When we were down at Nagahama, the southern
nd of my district, Charlie and I sometimes foregathered
rtlh the staff on the central section of the survey, com-
prising the whole of the eastern coast of the lake : and
inited with Billy and Christopher in trying to make
Mirseives happy. This was much facilitated by Billy's
growler," as it was called— a portable fold-up-and-
■ut-in-a-box harmonium, which he had brought along
to keep up his organ practice with against the time
Irhcn we should have a railway clergyman.

We certainly enlivened Nagahama, and I believe
ke people of our tea-house made a handsome little
brtune one evening by admitting a number of the
Kspectable inhabitants of the quarter into the garden
upon which our rooms opened. Of course no attempt
at privacy was possible in the hot season ; and the
wonderment of the spectators may be imagined at
the sight of one perspiring foreigner in pyjamas and
a singlet pounding away at a harmonium, while three
reclining in long chairs, and habited in similar

EIGirr YEARS IN JAPAN.

light costumes, swelled the chorus of " Oh ! Kafoo-
zlcum ! " now and again absorbing Bass from long
tumblers, as some reminiscence of Bach or Handel was
evoked from the tortured instrument, to aid the progress
" down the red lane " of the aforesaid liquid.

In August the Chief gave us a second look in, as
he passed by on his way through the interior, intent
upon the further track of the great railway system of
the future: and he at that time explained that as the
progress of survey between Kiyoto and Otsu, in the
hands of an elder Tom, aided by Edward and Gervaise —
all of them but faintly known to us at the far end-
had shown the necessity of adopting a steeper " ruling
gradient " or rate of inclination for the railway, I
was to communicate with the said Tom, and utilixe
for the purposes of my own line the incline to which
he was working. This made it necessary to alter a
great part of my line in the hills, and I accordingly
rejoined James, and revised the work : but the diffi-
culties near the summit suggested to my mind the
great advantages that a further modification of tbt
ruling gradient would enable us to secure ; and on
communicating with the Chief I at last received final
instructions that were almost equivalent to a c0U
blatu/te, viz. to use any incline, so that I could do away
with the long tunnel at the summit and reduce the work
generally. This undid a second time the work already
set out ; but we had by this time completed the line i"
the plains, and knew every inch of our ground in th<
hills, so that by bringing Charlie over to Hikida to
strengthen our hands tliere, we completed the steep and

FIRST YEA/tS WORK.

tortuous centre line through the range about the same
time that the work about Shiotsii and the head of the
lake, a very rough length, was brought to a conclusion.
It was none too soon, for early snows began to make our
getting about a work of some difficulty in the rugged
country ; and we were warned by the village folk that
flie winter would be a severe one, as, in fact, it proved
to be.

This was not yet, however — we had two fine autumn
months to complete our field work in. The monotony
of our lives was also a Utile broken by the visits of two
or three men from the settlements, intent upon discover-
ing the resources of Tsuruga, there being a rumour that
lliin the railway was Opened— a far cry — that place
»ould be made an open port First came a long-
l^ed and boisterous German, who was known to his
eompatriots, on account of his seventy-five inches of
ttature, as " Hugo das Kind," or sometimes even " Hugo
iasRind," a variation that was supposed to involve the
■Kry essence of German humour. He brought letters of
introduction to all our party, and stayed a day or two In
Hikida for purposes of sport, having a wonderful breech-
loader needle-gun by Dreyse, which after loading had to
be lashed round with string to make it safe to discharge.
He had also a grand pointer " Knack," that had a
•ooderful tooth for snipe— and he instructed us how
to play " Rumsch," a game something like the American
*eut-throat euchre:"— and recounted to us the wildest
nmances as to the nature of his dealings with native
liignitarics. He had also very advanced views on
Kligious subjects ; but James being the son of a clergy-

EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN.

man, tackled him promptly, and we being two to one
fairly shouted him down, and made him retract ancf
apologize, and confess his inferiority to the ordinary
Japanese cooHc in respect of practical religion and
morality ; after which he paid his losings at " Rumsch "
and went away.

The other two men were Kobe magnates, who had
started on their trip by shooting a coolie and missing
a weasel, whereat they were somewhat depressed.
This unlucky contretemps had detained them some
days in Kiyoto, till the local officials had referred to
Tokiyo for instructions ; but as the victim was only
struck by a stray pellet that glanced off a stone, and
it was doubtful if his skin had been actually penetrated,
— such details are always wrapped in mystery by the
Japanese— and as both men were well-known and highly
respected residents in the country, they were not sub-
jected to any greater inconvenience than the delay,
though the one who fired the shot had, I believe,
ultimately to make some compensation, of which 'Son
coolie probably received about a tenth, the rest beia^
stopped on the way.

The question of shooting generally was a source
of trouble in those days. The country was fairly
stocked with game, though it was difficult to get at;
and we all had a noble ambition to become great
shikaris, or maintain an already established reputatioD
in that respect. But in strict theory, shooting was
forbidden to the foreigner ; and though we applied for
and at iirst obtained from the local authorities licenses
similar to those issued to native hunters, they were

FIRST YEASTS WORK. 63

revoked in consequence of instructions from the capital.
Of course the general subject, like all others about that
time debated between the bigwigs in Tokiyo, imported
the rights of extra-territoriality, the revision of the
treaties, the consequences of offending the legitimate
susceptibilities of a people prone to give practical ex-
inssion to their hatred of the foreigner, and so on, —
&om the rightful tuning of a musical instrument, which
XDVolves the age of the moon, to the commercial privileges
of the British merchant, which involve everything in
the heavens above, the earth beneath and the waters
under the earth, it is quite impossible to deal on simple
grounds with any problem in Japan.

A dreadful circular reached us from the head office
in Yokohama, promising consequences of the most
heartrending description if we pursued game with a
' or any other engine " — so that they might be sure
of having us somehow ; but we received from our local
tiends a sort of assurance, that so long as we didn't
fii|hten or annoy the people, or damage their property
or crops, the mere practice of shooting would not be
made the subject of any special report. In fact, through-
my stay in Japan, though no authorization to pursue
ic outside the treaty limits (of twenty-five miles
from each open port) was ever Issued to a foreigner,
irerc never interfered with vexatiously by local
Botluimties on account of our proceedings with dog and
gun; and the few cases in which injury was actually
inflicted upon the country people and their belong-
ings, or criticism provoked by inconsiderate behaviour,
jperc treated with what we alJ had reason to think

64 EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN.

moderation and good sense, so far as actual
went.

In the beginning of December our field work
all complete, but we were instructed to remain in
district, and prepare with all care and detail cstimsM
of the cost of constructing our line. So wc went laB
winter quarters at Shiotsii and Hikida, making oursdvo
as comfortable as wc could In our little houses, or rathtf
parts of houses. As Christmas approached we made
some preparations for jollity, and met at Shiotsij, wbe«
Mrs. Tom, the lady of the district, presided over oof
festivities. Snow began to fall in earnest on ChristmM
Eve ; and very soon the village was " all down-staira,"
and the roofs laden with four or five feet of snow that
did not begin to melt till February.

James and Charlie had a rough time of it when IheJ
started to reach their station on the other side of the
range, two or three days after Christmas, when the firtt
fall had ceased. They set off about eleven o'clock one
morning, and got on well enough for the first coujft
of miles ; that was to the far end of the next ^^11^
for some traffic had opened a track so far. ThenC*
they took to the bed of the river, rough with bouldeW
as it was, and running knee deep with ice-cold water,
the high road being quite impracticable. They struggled
up the stream till it narrowed to a mere streamlet
within steep banks, and then finding that the snow
had filled the hollow with one continuous drift, effected
a sort of upward dive through the overhang
and took to the fields, up to their hips in soft sdoW
This was, of course, rather tiring work, and the rate ol

F/KST YEAirS WORK.

progress about that of a fly in a paste-pot ; so that
when the afternoon began to close in it was a matter
for considerable doubt whether they had not better
fetum to Shidtsu. for they knew the worst of the road
back, but what might be in store for them on the ridge
tbcy couldn't tell. However, they concluded to push
on to Hukasaka, the little hamlet on the south side of
the pass, hoping to get there, as they said, by eight
o'clock — five miles and a half from Shiotsu ! Shelter
and fire were to be found there, at all events ; so they
struggled on through the ever-deepening snow, and
up the narrowing valley leading to tlie pass. Providence
befriended tiiem, for just as they were reckoning up
their remaining powers of progression, and balancing
them against the distance to the place of shelter, they
encountered a large body of travellers on the downward
road — some two hundred sailors and fifty villagers.

Now, a sailor on a mountain ridge, with an ocean
of snow around him, is a rather incongruous thing ; but
it happens that one of the oldest established industries
in Japan is the coasting trade between Osaka and the
west coast provinces, through the inland sea and the
straits of Shimo-no-seki, and thence north-easterly to
Kaga, Echigo, and beyond. The sailors who navigate
the large class of junks so engaged mostly belong to
the west coast, and habitually travel overland to Osaka
in the winter, make the voyage out from Osaka in the
spring, return to Osaka in the summer, and lay up their
vessels and go home in time for the harvest, starting
afresh for Osaka about the end of the year, when
much is doing at home. So this was an early

66 EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN.

party for Osaka, who had hired villagers to clear or
tread a path for them through the snow.

As soon as our friends met them, the villagers repre-
sented to the sailors that the road must be all dear
•beyond, as here was a party of only five people, two
foreigners and three porters, who had come up from
Shiotsu ; and straightway producing bags, they col-
lected coin from the sailors, and started back, givlBg
James and Charlie the benefit of the road they bad
trodden through the snow, so that Hukasaka t
passed without a rest, the summit reached, and die
comforts of Hikida attained in a very short time. The
sailors probably were a little tired before they readied
Shiotsij. They are a hardy race, though, and as light-
hearted as most other Japanese; and I dare say tbqr
laughed over their troubles, and jeered each other G
being left in the lurch by the villagers, with the tai
only half accomplished for which they had paid \ U
went gaily down the lake next day in the cranky UUil
steamers that it seemed a rash thing to trust ones
aboard of. We heard in the course of the next dayflj
the safe arrival of our friends at Hikida ; and then t
snows descended again, and there was no communtc*'
tton across the hill for a fortnight. And so ended our
first year up country.

I have already mentioned the Saga rebellion, that took
place early in the year, but not its sequel, the Formosa
expedition, nor the sequel of that again. There was so
much ground for the Formo.sa expedition, as this.
China, the nominal owner of all Formosa, had refused
to chastise the rude people of the east coast, who had

been guilty of cruelty and depredations in respect of
Japanese vessels and their crews wrecked on the island.
Japan, always on the looli out for some opportunity of
striking a blow for effect with the minimum of risk, or of
beginning to begin to get ready to fight, like Mr. Winkle,
and hurrying up the preparations in exact proportion to
the approach of the authorities charged to prevent a row,
threatened and blustered, and mustered ships and men ;
the government chuckling in Tokiyo over the eagerness
of their friends the samurai, who were all agog at the
prospect of a chance of showing tlieir usefulness, but
who were not supposed to have much really to say in
the matter. Unfortunately, it sometimes happens, the
reins give way just when it is a question of dexterously
turning a corner ; and when the government were devis-
ing a means for backing out of the affair, lo the ships
departed, the men landed in Formosa, walloped some
wretched savage tribes they met with, and sent home to
know how they were going to be rewarded if they came
back, or if they hadn't better go on into China. They
were enticed back, just about the time that China felt
stickling sensation in one of her extremities ; and the
question was made a diplomatic one. Here was China
saying that the other side of Formosa was really not
worth bothering about, but japan had no business there
atany rate ; here was Japan boasting that she had given
the Chinese a lesson, and was quite willing to take
Formosa altogether, if China liked, or didn't ; here were
all the other powers only anxious that there should be
no row. And in the end only the savages of Formosa
and the finances of Japan suffered, though the latter were

EIGHT YEASS IN JAPAN.

helped by a substantial indemnity from China, who
tardily acknowledged that as a friendly power she ought
to have punished the bad conduct of her subjects
towards the distressed and shipwrecked Japanese, Prac-
tically justice was done ; only the government of Japan
had a warning not to pretend too much, when the cic
ments of a disturbance were gathering around. The
successful people were unquestionably the samurai, who
had their own way, in spite of their own govemmenl,
and came galumphing back, and sent in the bill.

China, of course, revived the charming old fiction, of
all the outer kingdoms being vassals of hers, who were
occasionally permitted to settle matters amongst them-
selves, the victor always finding that he had been acting
as representative of the ruler of the middle kingdom ',
so that there was nothing wrong in the fact of Japan
having been allowed to show her zeal for the service of
Pekin by whacking people too small for China to bother
about, and being rewarded by so many taels subsequently
as a mark of approval. I believe when the joint ex-
pedition of England and France took Pekin, it was
represented as being at the request of the Emperor cf
China, who had some provincial barbarians on his hands
at the time, and asked the allied powers just to stepia
and keep things dusted while he was away in the country.
The futilities of oriental diplomacy have always some-
thing charming about them, and it seems a pity that
they should generally be connected, either before ot
after the event, with bloodshed, rapine, and misery,
which represent to the statesmanlike mind in the east
little more than the board with its alternate squares

FIRST YEA/rS WORK.

to the chess-player ; you must have it always, but it has
no influence on the moves of the game except to make
them possible. The ancient relations of China, Corea,
and Japan, so far as they have been unravelled by re-
search, were, except for this necessary taking of life
and destruction of the results of labour, a round of high
old Jinks and ceremonies.

This Formosan expedition connected itself subse-
quently with the last act of violence, by which a foreigner
was the victim, in Japan, of native fanaticism ; the story
being well-known — that of the murder of Mr. Haber, the
German Consul at Hakodate, a gentleman generally
respected by all who knew him. One wretched man of
tte samurai class, who had stayed at home instead of
joining his companions in their jaunt to Formosa, had
Us life made so miserable by the consequent contempt
•ith which they treated him, that he became weary of it ;
*nd having realized his small property, squandered the
Jffoceeds in the least reputable purlieus of Hakodate,
Ind reduced his worldly possessions to his dishonoured
s*ord, sallied out half drunk to re-establish his self-
(epect by killing a foreigner. He met with Mr. Haber,
■ho was in feeble health, just recovering from a severe
illness, and cul him down.

Of course he was brought to justice ; and it is much
to the credit of the German Minister at that time, Herr
ron Brandt, who at once took the true view of the case,
F that no attempt was made to seek other redress than
such as the operation of the powers of law provided ; or to
render the government of Japan otherwise accountable
than as trustees of justice for the action of a dishonoured

EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN

and semi-idiotic ruffian. It was not to be apprehends
thenceforth that any Japanese patriot, however mistake
or fanatical, would willingly render himself liable to b
remembered in the same week with the wretched Hake
date murderer.

SECOKD year's WORK: AKASAKA, NAGOVA (iS/s).

; busy enough all through January of 1875 in
estimates, occasionally getting out for
in the snow or a coasting voyage round the
d of the lake after game. Our great shikari, Tom,
bot ivhat he called a mountain sheep, really a sheep-
antciope, before Christmas ; and they were shot
e native hunters in large numbers when the heavy
r snous drove them down into the valleys. Wild boar
I were also slain in plenty, and one enormous one, said
I to weight forty-five " kan " or "kwamme," equivalent to
I three hundred and seventy-five pounds, was hoisted in
I triumph up to the top of the look-out ladder in the
I next village. We couldn't do very much of this kind
f of fun, being far too heavy to get about on any kind of
' snow-shoe we could devise ; for the snow remained soft
and unfrozen all through the winter. Tom, however, shot
a young pig with a revolver through a hole in the top of
the box in which the luckless pig was confined, his
capture having been previously effected by a combina-
tion of Japanese strategy with foreign dollars, James
and Charlie had lots of fun, and got several good skins.

72 EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAtf.

Of my own achievements I will only say that 1 didn't
give myself any airs on account of them.

Our poultry yard at Shintsii was a great temptation
to the foxes, who used to come and hang about round
the corner, and even try and get under the house. But
Tom was too many for them ; whenever he smelt a fox
he would arise and go to his muzzle-loader, and fire
from the verandah at the thick of the scent, rardy
failing to hit something. Our worst enemies, however,
were the polecats, or "ten," as the Japanese call them
We lost more than twenty fowls one night, in spite of
watching and dodging ; but we got one of the marauders
at last, whose mate had shut up the hole through wbidi
he essa>'cd to retreat, by dragging a too-too fowl into
it ; so that he was peppered with small shot, and after
waltzing round the cook's quarters, and being transfi:ced
there with a carving-fork, he died.

Every day Tom and I struggled up to a little garden
we had in a sheltered corner, and dug some endive out-
from under the snow, and Mrs. Tom accompanied u*
as directress. The season was a trying one, however, t'
any but rude constitutions ; and at the end of the mon<
I was obliged to send them both away to find the d<
as we couldn't get a doctor to come to Shiotsu ; at li
he was so long in coming that we gave him up, and
couldn't take the responsibility of keeping Tom, wb'
fell really ill, and his wife any longer in such an out
the way hole as Shiotsij. So on the first available fin^
day they started off, on what was a very trying journey
but, with the help of friends on the way, they reachi
Kobe all right

SECOND YEARS WORK.

The Kiyoto doctor arrived at Shiotsii a few hours
ifter their departure, having taken three days to
come round the lake — and sharp work, too, in such
season — rather than trust to a steamer. He was
iturally wroth at finding his journey useless ; but
ere was no help for it at that time. So he stopped
ily long enough to take some lunch, and departed
3wn the other side of the lake, hoping to find the
wads better that way ; but came to grief, being pitched
tHitof hb jinrikisha backwards, so that he nearly broke
bis neck, and reached home rather more dead than
llive.

I was now left alone, and as our estimates and plans
lad all been sent in, time hung heavily on my hands ;
so 1 induced James and Charlie to come over, and we
iad a few days shooting together quietly, and otherwise
arove to make our miserable lives happy. And then
one morning in came our letters, and amongst them a
fumtnons to myself to repair to Kobe, there to receive
ftom the Chief instructions for a new sui^vey for the
season, of greater extent than the one just
Wmpleted, and involving the services of a larger staff
IDider my supervision. We gave three cheers, for we
veiy soon became tired of the workless state ; and by
oght o'clock next morning I was keeping an eye upon
lie pressure gauge of a cranky little paddle-steamer,
■md leaving Shiotsu behind me.

Touching the said pressure gauge, I afterwards found
'that 1 was a victim to a kindly imposture ; for owing to
the spread of intelligence and development of exact
knowledge in the land, all steamers were provided with

EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAK.

two gauges — one in a conspicuous position, and wu*-
ranted to keep steady within small limits, so that the
nervous passenger might be comforted — as I was, — and
another in a secluded comer of the stoke-hole, for the
information of the head engineer and stoker's mate, who
occupy the inside of one hat. In spite of this con-
siderate arrangement, a steamer on the lake had gone to
glory with all hands only a few days before ; and whra
Tom and his wife were on the journey down he had
been obliged to get out on the deck of his boat, whidi
was being towed by the steamer, and use several short
words, emphasized by the display of a pocket Derringer,
to prevent twenty-six " damp, moist, and unpleasant
bodies " being taken on board, the results of the capsiie
on the previous day.

The account that reached me of this latter casual^,
was that one of the smallest steamers, licensed to cany
thirty-six passengers, had started away from Shiotsi^ at
the dead of the night with sixty-five; and that four
people having gone simultaneously to one side of th^
boat to look at bubbles in the water, she heeled over, ano
forty wide-awake passengers rushed to the other sidet*?
keep her steady; but she righted too much, turned
turtle, and five out of the whole number on board lived
happy ever afterwards.

As all passengers have to be registered by name*
there were twenty-nine unregistered, so that the term*
of the licence might not appear on the record to have
been transgressed ; and the authorities were annoyed to
find upon inquiry that the five survivors had apparently
not been on board at all ; but as all the hands belqni

lands belqngii^

SECOND YEAIfS WORK.

^ the steamer were lost, it was found convenient to lay
the blame upon the unhappy skipper, who could not, of
course, speak up in his own defence. When returning,
I put myself and belongings into a tow-boat, by official
command, without a pang.

However, thanks to the show-gauge, I was quite
happy on the way down. The surface of the lake was
calm as a mill-pond, darkened here and there by
myriads of geese and teal. All around the mountains
»erc snow-clad from summit to base, until we came
within a few miles of OtsQ, where a deep cross valley
between Shirayama to the north and lye-san to the
Muth — two mountains of over three thousand feet high
—seemed curiously to mark a change of climate.
Shirayama (white hill) fully deserved its name ; but
wen OQ the northern slope of lye-san there was scarcely
I patch of snow visible. At Otsti I found that only
■*bout a foot of snow altogether had fallen, and not
•Itove two inches in any one fall — yet we were only
fifty miles from Shiotsti ! where we certainly had a
Binimum of four feet in depth of snow on the ground
*» five weeks ; and there was fully half of it remaining
"ben I left.

I found, to my delight, that the road from Otsii to
Kiyoto had been vastly improved from the state of
fourteen months before. It was now a good wide road.
*ith the old tramway removed, inclines eased, and
properly drained ; and I bowled along merrily into the
old capital with many a yell from the coolies who were
drawing my jinrikisha, and many a close shave of
ttmers, and many a leap of the heart into the throat

76 EIGHT YEARS IH JAPAX.

as the gaily dressed children in their wonderful winter
garments, looking like a cross between a demon and
a butterfly, squirmed out of the way of the wheels.

Arriving at the railway offices about five o'clock, I
forthwith sent on the boy and interpreter to Fushimi, to
secure a boat on the river, and dropped in upon ray
colleague, the elder Tom, who was residing in quarters
at the offices, as was also another of the stafiF, like
himself a married man. Though when we left England
we were warned that wives were to be looked upon is
incumbrances altc^ether out of place in Japan, for
some months at any rate, these two astute persons
had come provided, and had unquestionably been in
consequence made far more comfortable in every way
than we luckless bachelors had been. Our Tom was
an exception, and in truth it seemed to be thought
necessary that one married man at least should be made
uncomfortable, lest all should presume, and a general
rush for wives be made as a preliminary to a stru^le
for the " soft things " of the department. Yet another
married man — nay, two— were there in Kiyoto ; thougb
I only caught a glimpse of one of them at the time, and
did not meet him again for nearly five years.

I was hospitably entertained ; and after a pleasant
chat, and enough departmental scandal to show me
that even these happily situated people, as I should call
them, had their grievances, whereat I was disposed W
laugh, I left them at ten o'clock, and before midnight
was asleep in my boat and gliding down the peaceful
river.

Osaka was reached without mishap ; and after »

SECOND YEAlfS WORK.

chat with the Chief Assistant, whom I found in residence

there, I sped on by rail to Kobe, recruited my by no

means wearied frame with a bath and some tiffin, and

t>resented myself to the Chief for instructions.

^k These were, that I should go upon a second

Hbtalment — the first being included as a portion of the

last year's survey — of the grand trunk railway between

Kiyoto and Tokiyo, intended to pass through the

heart of the country ; but the portion of it now to be

surveyed only extended from the eastern shore of the

lake to the far side of the plain of Mino, about fifty

miles, with a branch of twenty miles to the city of

Nagoya and the coast of Owari Bay ; being partly in

a not very rugged hill country and partly in a region

of large rivers. My staff was to consist of James and

Charlie, as before; Billy and Christopher; another

I James, say Jimmy, whose work on the Osaka-Kiyoto

railway in course of construction was to be handed

over to Tom, in consideration of his blessed state of

Tnatrimony ; and a youth, Claude, from Yokohama;

nbsequently reinforced by Ned, the one married

man who was to be made uncomfortable, vice Tom

relieved.

I had five days in Kobe; during which I provided
myself with such belongings as I thought necessary for
my comfort during the campaign, being firmly purposed
to dispense with the too costly assistance of the depart-
1 that line. The hotel people made a good profit
me, for I think I had only one meal in the place
my stay ; and having attended church, and a
ball, and sundry other dissipations, to clear away

EIGHT YEARS W IfAPAJV.

the cobwebs from my provincial brain, departed for
the scene of action.

I had instructions to make a progress through the
works of tlie Osaka-Kiyoto line, and see what was doing
there. Truth to tell it was not very much, except near
Osaka, where the foundations of two large river bridges
were in progress, the work consisting of building and
sinking large brick wells. Further on some bridges and
culverts were in hand, but after the first half-dozen miles
the works seemed to consist of embankments merely, the
future position of bridges being indicated by gaps left
in the same. However, it was all very interesting so far
, as it went ; and I envied the four resident engineers
their comfortable bungalows, spaced about six miles
apart ; so that progress by easy stages, with intervals
for refreshment, was the order of the day and a half
I took between Osaka and Kiyoto.

I had already obtained leave for James and Charlie
to come down and recruit themselves for the exertions
of the coming season, and passed them on my way;
that is, I was on the road when they were on the river.
I looked in again upon my friends in Kiyoto, Ned
the victim, still unconscious of his impending fate (iS
indeed I was also at the time), and made Shiotsti after
eight days' absence.

There I packed off Tom's belongings that he had
left behind, took a last fond look at village, temple, bay,
and mountain, and hey for Mayebara ! my new starting-
point, about five miles south of Nagahama ; the object
being to get a solitary run through the new district, and
prepare instructions for the staff as they arrived

SECOND YEARS WORK.

ssively on the ground, so that each might be able to
get to work as soon as he reported himself.

Signs of a pretty sharp thaw were noticeable as
I left Shiotsu, with " Yashi " (cocoa-nut), Charlie's brown
retriever, standing like a monument on the end of the
landing-stage. He was left in charge of a servant to
await his master's return from Kobe, but didn't quite
understand the arrangement ; and when the last of his
master's friends had disappeared he lay down in front
of the temple, with his eyes towards the lake, refused
food, and died there before Charlie returned. We were
all very sorry for poor old Yashi, whose propensity for
running down perpendicular cliffs and straining himself,
I so that he had generally to be carried about in a " Kago "
anc of the family, and to take sitz-baths every morning
1 evening, had endeared him to all classes of the
community.

We had a brisk breeze down the lake, as far as the
Wlis enclosed the narrow part, and our sailing-boat
surged along merrily; but when we were opposite
Benten we found that the true direction of the wind
wis from the west across the lake ; and from out of
ihe deep bight behind the island came a nasty sea, so
■flat we rolled about with shortened sail, shipping lots
if water, and feeling very uncomfortable. This lasted
^ut three hours, when the sailors suddenly hoisted
lil to its full extent and made for the shore, as I
lought intending to run us up high and dry ; but, behold,
' (Aerc was a narrow passage, barely thirty feet wide,
through which we were cleverly steered, to find our-
in a lagoon of stiil water and a creek beyond

80 EWHT VEARS IN JAPAN.

leading up to a little village under 3 hill. This was
Mayebara, five hours from Shiotsu, by the water detour,
though only about seventeen miles as the crow flies.
It was now raining dismally ; so as I had plenty of
desk-work in arrear, I set up my table in a tea-house and
made out the afternoon there.

My baggage on this journey consisted of what might
be fairly set down as necessaries for travel in the
interior, heavy cases being left behind at Mayebara till
they should be sent for. There was a portmanteau and
hand-bag, despatch box, cooking apparatus and lamp,
a box of stores, table and two chairs, and less obviously
necessary for a few days' trip, a fitted canteen, a gun-case,
and a promising young pointer. Then the interpreter
had his light baggage, and the native servant was also
similarly provided. One object was to test the rate
of progress that could be made with this amount of
impedimenta, from day to day, as proposed new regula-
tions made a point of the distance travelled in calcu-
lating allowances. I found that the minimum of twenty
five miles would have been easily accomplished, if it \a&
not been on government service ; but as the actuJ
transport, by jinrikisha or coolie, was an official matter,
my interpreter would never arrange, as paymaster, for
a long stage, but at every post-town or village would get
fresh men, and consume half an hour at least in getting
everything reduced to writing and stamped ofHciallj'-
As the stage did not average five miles, a good deal o(
time was thus thrown away, so that at least ten houii
on the road were required to cover the twenty-firt
miles. In the hilly districts, where it was necessary

SECOND YEAR'S WORIC 81

< walk, the stages were longer and the delays pro-
^rtionably less, so that it was pretty fair on the whole,
»t tiresome. In my case, however, I could utilize the
by looking about the country, which was my
I object apart from the experiment as to possible

Rain again next day, and that most dismal, a heavy
mist hanging low down and completely hiding the tops
of even the lower hills ; but I made a start, and partly
iiding, partly walking, got beyond the water shed of the
Ule, and down a valley to a village on the edge of the
plain of Mino ; having passed three long villages and
several small ones, and by what appeared to be a thriving
line of country on the whole, very different from the
Shiotsjj district.

The second day was fine, but the roads still bad. At
Akasaka, a straggling village at the foot of a bold lime-
stone hill, 1 routed out the head-man or mayor, and
fiom the top of a small wooded hill to the southward,
bearing unmistakable marks of having been entrenched,
and called " Kachiyama" (victory hill), the scene of one
of the fights in which lyi^yasu overcame his former ■
master and rival for power, Hidey6shi, — I had a good
view, and obtained a series of bearings of all the
nnportant points in and around the plain. Then on
Sgain, across two considerable rivers by ferry-boat, and
'level intervening tract intersected by embankments, to
.Kano, an old castle town, where the road to Nagoya
off to the southward, and another in the opposite
in led to Gifu, the seat of local government, a tall
tical hill called the GifiJ-yama standing out boldly

into the plain to the east of the larger of the two n'vere
referred to.

At Kano a great "matsuri" was in full swing, and
coolies for transport had to be procured from a separate
village "in another parish." During this delay I walked
round the town, through the fields, and skirted the moat of
the old castle, whose buildings and ramparts had almost
disappeared. The celerity with which these relics of
ancient power vanish from off the face of the earth is
rather startling sometimes. As the buildings are of wood
and plaster they require some expenditure to keep in
repair, and unless some special use is made of them, it is
cheaper to pull them down and sell the material than
spend money in maintenance. The fine old seasoned
timber commands a good price — we turned some of it
into railway carriages, — and the very stones of the ram-
parts, rough conical blocks, laid with the base outwards
to the face of the wall, so that they have the appearance
of far more substantial building than they really mak^
are carted away to make foundations for new erections.

East of Kano we soon got clear of tlie rice-land,
mounting on to a stretch of almost uncultivated ground,
partly covered with forest, but affording one of the feif
chances for a good gallop that one gets in Japai
Though elevated only about twenty feet above the main
river, but requiring thus the application of capital tO
irrigate it, this land lies waste, only one or two poO
villages occurring in some thirteen miles of nai
Beyond this " hara," or elevated plain or heath, lies tlJ
village of Unuma, to the east of which commences th
picturesque gorge through which the great river Kh

SECOlfD YEAR'S WORK.

into the plain, with many a rapid and deep eddy
among the basaltic rocks through which it has worn a
tortuous way. There being still two hours of daylight
when I reached Unuma, I strolled up the gorge, returning
heartily tired to the head-man's house for dinner and rest,
the inns being too indefinably dirty and crowded.

Next morning, with weather stiil fine, I went over the
hill to the far side of a bare overhanging precipice that
liad stopped me the previous night ; and found that this,
the only obstacle in the route of a railway hereabouts,
»as but a few dozen yards through, and no difficulty
appeared in locating a line on either side of it; so I
returned to Unuma, and started for Nagoya, turning to
the southwest We crossed the river about a mile below
the opening of the gorge by a ferry, the width of which
showed how cramped the river must be in its rocky bed
above, and landed under the crag of Inuyama, where
a castle, high up above the water's edge, still commands
the passage. In a sort of bay behind a similar crag, but
isolated and its top inaccessible, on the other side of the
liver, acres of tree-trunks were lying in the water ;
brought down in time of flood from the rugged sides of
Ontake-san, fifty miles away to the north-east, and
collected here to be formed into rafts for transport down
the river to the ports on the bay of Owari.

South of Inuyama we found anotlier elevated plain

of small extent, and then descended in a sort of corduroy

country, alternate strips of wet and dry cultivation,

cunningly devised to take advantage of the very highest

, level at which water could be brought on to the land

^arently, half the ground being artificially lowered

and the rest raised. Across this we struggled by a sandy
road, heading for Komaki, a village lying near an
isolated hill far out in the plain, and this we reached by
lunch-time, finding it a busy place, with many good
shops, crowded with purchasers from the surrounding
country. Then on again southward to Nagoya, whose
lofty keep we had now in view through the trees that
bordered the road, crossing a wide turbid river between
lofty banks connected by a ricketty wooden bridge that
I tliought it best to walk over. We doubled backwards
and forwards a few times, and at last mounted a steep
incline on to the bluff that supports at its western ex-
tremity the remains of the grand old feudal castle;

This is quite a large place. Though the greater part
of the old buildings have disappeared, the keep of sevefl
stories in height is still in good preservation, and
within the ramparts are the new barracks of the garrison
and an ample parade ground, with rifle range three
hundred yards long beside it. Skirting this, we entered
upon the main street of one of the largest towns in
Japan. A busy scene it presented that afternoon, with
its groups of country folk, consulting and staring, s'
one moment all back and the next all face ; its parties
of soldiers, dirty little boys in uniform, holding each
other's hands like children as they staggered down tin
road, and whooped derisively at the passing foreigner;
its black -coated, belted, spectacled, and staff-bearing
policemen ; its lines of shops for the sale of every
imaginable article of native or foreign production, with
gaily dressed damsels seated on the shop-boards, of
squatting with feet tucked up and their

:ir shoes og thM

SECOND YEAR'S WORK. 85

■ground below them, bargaining, chattering, cheapening,
and, I firmly believe, never buying anything ; the grave
iboplceepers seated in state behind fifteen-inch screens,
with brazier, pipe, and abacus all complete, but quite too
dignified to take any active part in the business that was
I going on between the make-believe purchasers and the
ibarp-e^'ed shock-headed shop-boys. There were silks
velvets, calicos, shirtings, native dyed cloths, blankets,
trockerj', hardware, lamps, soap, umbrellas, slates and
pencils, combs and hairpins, mirrors, watches and clocks,
dieap engravings and coloured lithographs, photography,
bats, toys, kites, wines and beer, canned provisions,
sweetmeats and sugar, green stuffy gold fish, spectacles,
lake hair, dolls, purses and pipe-cases, paper and books,
ink, maps, ink-stones and writing brushes, tobacco, musical
instruments, and I don't know what. — all apparently
mixed together in two long shops, from the castle gate
tothe telegraph office and far beyond.

The air was full of jovial hubbub, peals of laughter,

cries of anguish from lost children and hunting mothers,

the creak and rumble of heavy ox -carts with their loads

Of tubs and bales, the scutter of impudent poultry, and

^ the yell of trampled dogs. I missed the gentleman

' I with the three-peaked hat and the crutched stick, his

" I friend with the beautiful complexion and capacious

I pockets, and the glittering dancer with the magic sword ;

/ but if they had suddenly appeared from round the

comer, and proceeded to relieve old ladies of their

parcels, stretch themselves before the feet of wondering-

eyed countrymen, transform a draper's shop into a

^beatre, or perpetrate any of their well-known old tricks

EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAIf.

at the expense of the police, there would have been no
perceptible incongruity, and probably no addition to
the general row, or interference with the univeral polite-
ness and gaiety.

We made our way slowly along this main street
till we reached the centre of the town, and then turned
aside into a parallel street of quieter character and
searched for an inn. My interpreter had sent on a note
to ask the local authorities to assign me some respect-
able quarters ; but of course it was a holiday, and do
officials were to be found. I was rather tired, but so
little pleased with the look of one or two tea-houses
that I ventured into, that I insisted upon some persM
in authority being hunted up ; and at last we foand
a grumpy middle-aged man, who utterly refused to
recognize me as a government official, but said that
foreigners always went to a certain hotel near the
telegraph office. We left him to recover his good
humour at his leisure; and repairing to the place indi-
cated, found that it bore the outward aspect of any
other respectable lodging-house, but had a board ovtf
the entrance on which was written " Hfltel du Progrfesl"
and entering, I was eagerly welcomed by a numerous
staff, all in holiday costume.

I was conducted up a wide staircase, ornamentw
with shrubs in earthenware jars, into a room of stal*
that was probably nearly nine feet square, and had on*
side glazed, without any blinds, and in one comef
a round table with a very dirty cloth on it About
ten feet away was a blank wall, on the other side of
which was a native spree in full swing ; and I found

SECOND YEAR'S WORK.

lat the holiday was being kept up by the governor
and his aides, with the help of about a score of dancing
girls, actresses, musicians, and other aids to reflection,
in a room overlooking a garden, which would be placed
at my disposal as soon as the whole party had consumed
what there was to eat and drink, and gone home. But
1 had my dinner, and smoke, and had settled down
under my " fiiton " (quilts) on the mats long before that
happened ; and I don't think any of the ladies who
peeped in through the left-hand hole in the paper door
could have sworn that I wasn't asleep.

I had just finished breakfast the next morning, when

my interpreter appeared with the grumpy man of the

day before, now all smiles and courtesy, and two young

iais, who were similarly affected ; and introduced

a as sent by the governor to afford me full informa-

about the wants and apprehensions of tlie Aichi

1 generally (Aichi prefecture or Ken, is the modern

le for the old province of Owari) in respect of rail-

s. On my explaining to them that I desired to find

out the most satisfactory site for a station, in proximity

to the wholesale business quarter of the city, and with

asy access to the main centres of both land and water-

fcdme traffic, they seized the idea at once ; and we went

wnnd the whole place together, from the market for

■land produce to the wharves where the junks lay in

be offing waiting for a spring tide to get them inshore

rihe bay is very shallow and fast silting up); thence

the Kencho, or local government offices— where I

s concerned to hear that the governor was unwell —

i to the great shrines, the canal, and so on. 1 found

88 EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN:

that the young men had really a great fund of informa-
tion, which they were good enough to impart to me.

The afternoon I devoted to independent study of the
locality ; and when I returned to the hotel, and was
taken up a little back staircase into the big room where
the trouble had been the day before, I found xnyvii
pretty well exhausted, and contemplated the garden
through the smoke of a cigar with great contentment
as the day declined. I was honoured by the specif
ministrations of the daughter of the house, who waited
on me at dinner, asked after my family and native Und,
my status generally, and whether I had acquired 4
taste for Japanese luxuries : and discoursed about all
the subjects of interest that a Japanese girl can surest
My command of the language enabled me to answer
questions pretty tolerably, when I understood them,
and to originate a few inquiries in return ; but I failed
to get a clear idea of the gist of her remarks about the
system of government and taxation, agriculture and
social institutions, or whatever it was she favoured me
with as I became gradually worn out with guessing
and bad grammar, till she providentially withdrew and
left me to my hardly earned repose.

Next morning I started away from Nagoya by
a different road to that by which I had entered it; but
first went down in the grey of the morning to the Kenchft
and left my card for the governor, instructing toj
interpreter to express my sorrow at not having time to
await his restoration to health, which I hoped might b*
speedy and definitive — and in time for the next general
holiday, I thought, but did not say ; — and then on my

SECO.VD i-EAR'S WORK. Z^

ly back through the town enjoyed for the first time
e delight of being pitched out of a jinrikisha. In
ipanese towns surface water is carried off by narrow
ains on each side of the road, running under the shop
»rds, and in order to make these effective the road-
^f is well elevated in the centre. Now, at this time
K part of the main street below the telegraph office
in being repaired, each householder being required
) raise the portion in front of his own house, as far as
e middle of the road ; and as this was done in a patch-
ork sort of way, by each man at his convenience, the
iirface of the road was far from even. My team of
Holies had negotiated many of the rises and falls very
leverly, but at last got too near the houses, where the
« slope was pretty steep ; and in bouncing up on to
portion of mended road shot me out sideways into
hardware shop, where I made a horrible clatter among
le pots and pans, gridirons, tongs, scissors, and other
■rd things with edges and comers. Fortunately, I
loke nothing ; and the old lady of the establishment.
Bo had bolted with a yell as I came in at the window,
linking no doubt that a general action was commencing,
idled herself together and brought me a tub of water
wash my hands in, and a broom to dust my coat
thai. As it was beginning to rain, I had wrapped
ysclf well up in rugs and waterproofs for the journey,
I of which flew with me, and so I escaped with hardly
bruise and no broken bones ; and after the dismayed
dies had realized that I had no intention of doing
yihing violent, and consequently that the incident
volved no tragedy, they burst into a loud yell of

EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAK.

laughter, in which the whole population of the street,
including the old lady of the shop, joined lustily; and
we proceeded more carefully on our way.

As we had to pass the castle, 1 pulled up at an inner
gate, and by sending in my card by the interpreter to
the commandant, readily obtained permission to enter
the keep. First we went through a copper-studdd
doorway, under a guard-house supported on beams
spanning the entrance, and through a winding passage
into a court, commanded on all sides by inner ramparts,
and then passed another almost similar gate, situated
at right angles to the first ; certainly a difficult entrance
in face of a foe. At the side of the inner court was
a range of buildings, containing some good rooms richly
ornamented with carving in the panels above the sliding
partitions, all in good preservation but not used,
evidently ; these were the state rooms of former days.
Passing onward, we crossed a sort of bridge over a deep
hollow, with masonry revetments, and commanded
again by loopholed galleries on other walls, and found
ourselves in the basement story of the keep, an enormous
oblong apartment, said to contain a thousand mats,
each mat being two square yards. The space inside tlw
walls must therefore have been close upon half an aa^
including the interior supports, which were of very
substantial character. The ceiling was low, not above
eight or nine feet, and if, as I was assured, this apartment
sometimes in olden days was a barrack for a thousand
men, they must have been rather in want of ventilatioa
A wide stair in one comer led to a room above, slightly!
smaller, and more carefully ornamented; and so on w(

SECOND YEAR'S WORK.

e story after story till we reached the top room, only
»ut twelve yards square, some hundred feet above the
isement. Though the diminution in size is rapid,
Ithat the whole pile is somewhat pyramidal in shape,
t cunning of the architect has so overlaid the bare
nicture with gabled roofs and overhanging rafters
leach floor, that the general effect is eminently graceful ;

\ a spreading tent-like roof crowns the whole, with

t harmonious curves and sweeps of t4ie eaves and

1 that one sees in the temples of the land. In

iner days two immense fish, tail in air, covered with

d plates, surmounted the topmost gables ; but before
y time these had been removed, and one of them I saw
an exhibition in Kiyoto ; it was nearly ten feet high,

\ must have formed an effective finial at the height
its original position.

From the topmost story we had a good view all
)und, somewhat marred by lowering rain-clouds ; but
Bade up my mind to pay another visit some fine day,

I dracending, took leave of the courteous official

) had accompanied me, and started again on my

mey.

We went nearly due west out of the town, through
kng suburb crowded with market people, who piled

r wares in the road so as barely to leave room for

igle vehicle or pack-horse to pass ; and then crossed
Ifide river, met with higher up two days before, by

mporary bridge, hard by a new half-finished structure
\ very substantial character ; and then came another
f suburb, and at last we were in the open country,
Ich looked as cheerful as may be imagined,

:ure ^^d

the ^B

now heavy rain. More corduroy countrj". with small
and dirty villages scattered about, led us into a sandy
tract, mainly devoted to cotton, and a big village with
two fine temples, the inhabitants apparently chiefly
employed in the manufacture of wooden spinning and
weaving machinery. Then came more cotton fields
and another stretch of corduroy country, succeeded by
an expanse of low-lying rice-land, bounded by the lofty
bank of the big river Kis6, here nearly half a mile wide
between the flood banks, though the stream was but
half that width. We were ferried across, only about
a hundred yards at the far side being too deep for
poling, and found ourselves in the village of Kasamatsd,
where our day's journey came to an end. though it was
only lunch time, a little late. But as this was in a direct
line between Kano and Nagoya, I had promised myself
to look about the locality a little, and spent the after-
noon trudging along the high flood-banks, crossing
several times by boat, and getting an idea of what At
railway crossing would be like. The Kiso is one of
the largest rivers in Japan, subject to heavy floods from
the hilly country of its upper course ; and the determina-
tion of the proper crossing was one of the problems
of the survey. I had to put up with miserable quarter^
but was too tired to grumble, and soon found sleep ia
spite of the fleas.

Next day, we followed down the right bank of the
river till we came opposite another large village, about
six miles down stream, and then struck off to the right
in a north-westerly direction, crossing the two rivers

I had met with previously between Akasaka and Ki

saka and Kaa<ll

SECOJVD YEAR'S WORK.

but lower down ; and getting by mid-day to Ogaki,
1 considerable castle town about four miles south of
Akasaka, to which there was evidently access by water
for an import trade from the sea-coast. Another half-
dozen miles brought me to Tarui, where I had lodged
before, at the end of my first day's journey from Maye-

■ bira. All this day also it rained dismally, and I was
klad to get housed and warmed.

On reviewing my round, and notes of the country,
Bdecided upon Akasaka as my head -quarters, as being
le nearest convenient place to the centre of communi-
ition through the district; and despatching my inter-
■ to look out for a house there, I sat down to
■tribute the staff. James and Charlie were to take
fcm Mayebara to Tarui ; I indulged myself with a
. triangle, having Tarui, Akasaka, and Ogaki for
b comers; Billy and Christopher had the central part
cnce to Kano and Unuma, and down to Kasamatsii;
!ii!e Jimmy and Claude were to work from the last-
med place to Nagoya and the head of the bay,
nforced in due time by Ned, whom I managed to fix
I Nagoya so as to make him pretty comfortable. So
■ sent instructions to each, to meet them at Mayebara,
ft order that they might go straight to their respective
Hinds and " wire in,"
I had some difficulty in finding suitable quarters for

■ myself; not that I wanted much accommodation, but
Itather a safe place to leave things in during my absence,

r I reckoned that I should be at least half my time
ttering round the district after my scattered chickens.
t last 3 tiny house belonging to a little temple under

94 EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN.

the flank of the big hill seemed to suit me ; and I
speedily made a few alterations and repairs, and took
possession, turning a spare room of the priest's into a
drawing office; and started to work in the field, before
any of the others were on the ground. But before the
end of March we were all in full swing, and a skeleton
plan and proposed route were in the Chiefs hands in
May.

In this work, and in what followed, we were able to
make considerable use of the services of some of the
Japanese cadets, A far better staff, on the whole, was
attached to us on this year's work, the difference being
chiefly efiected by weeding out incapables and obstruc-
tives, and encouraging those who showed aptitude and
willingness. We were still amused or angered from time
to time by hearing of reports sent in from the district,
touching the private conduct and personal failings of the
foreign stafl". There is no doubt that every action wB
noted, and periodical reports forwarded to the superior
native officials, varying in character from ingenious
surmise, through ludicrous misapprehension, to simf^
contemptible slander ; and the only serious feature oT]
the business was the belief accorded by some of our bif
wigs, who ought to have known better, to the stone*
that were brought forward with a view of discrediting
the up-country division of the foreign staff. It was
gravely imputed to one man that he had imported a bale
of braces, forwarded on service, for trading purposcsi
Save the mark ! — a member of the Institution of Chril
Engineers hawking suspenders in his leisure hours ! At
last it was owing to the common sense of the Japanese

SECOND VEAFS WORIC.

Chief Commissioner that the subordinates were impressed
i»ith the conviction that dismissal, and not promotion,
would be the result if they were found to give more
attention to spying and slander than to assisting in the
actual work in hand.

The proceedings of our friends in authority rendered
my position during this year by no means a pleasant
one. All official communications between the head
offices and the staff up country necessarily passed
through my hands ; and I was at one and the same time
called upon to superintend and expedite the progress
of the work, referring to the Chief for instructions ; to
inquire into and comment upon the charges brought
against individuals under my control or influence, by
ijersons intent upon making the most of every indis-
;ion ; and to represent, as far as was possible within
limits of ofhcial courtesy, the feeling of an irritated
discontented staff. A strictly circumspect course
action, and the utmost moderation of counsel, involv-
I confess, a severe strain upon my own ideas of
ice, and a complete departure from what I should
ive not hesitated to do, had I been alone in the matter,
enforced upon me by every consideration of what I
'Cd to others ; and I may say that the retirement the
id of this year's work brought about, into a less trying
ition, came as a most welcome relief
Other matters, of accidental occurrence, " bothered "
not a little : Jimmy down with small-pox, which was
life in the district ; the advent of the victim Ned, whose
iealth was precarious, and who had been ordered up
mXry in the scarcely disguised hope on the part of

96 EIGHT YEARS m JAPAy.

the authorities that he would feel obliged to resign
rather than attempt to obey, but who actually got oi
very well in spite of his incumbrances and anxieties
an attack of malarial fever that rendered my life a
burden to me in the hottest of tlie hot weather, when
for three weeks the thermometer never went below 91'
Fahr. in " the cool of the morning ; " Claude's exploit
shooting an agriculturist instead of a pigeon ; and ibc
serious illness of another of the staff who had to be sent
down country ; — all these things combined, indeed, to
keep me from desponding, for every occurrence had its
ludicrous side : either at my own expense, or my friends'
or my foes', there was a laugh to be had somehow.

Take, for instance, Claude's little mishap, as to whicH
I first heard by rumour that a foreigner, unnamed, had
met a child just outside a village, and shot him dead;
with two bullets from a revolver ; — -next, that a foreigner
had been riding violently along a narrow path throi
the paddy, and had charged a foot passenger, km
him down and killed him ; next, that two of the
to wit Billy and Christopher, were in the hands of
authorities, who were protecting them against the
of the excited populace. This last rumour started
off; and I found out that the foundation for the al
romance was Claude's ill-luck.

It was towards the end of the hot weather, and
even fresh fish was obtainable ; and the youth, who ht
been living on tinned provisions for some timci li
after fresh mea^ and knowing of some pigeon, craftdi
pursued the same with gun " or other engine " coni
to the statutes in that case made aad providedjo

SECOND YEAR'S WORK.

• his ungodly appetite. He got a couple of
Jand returned home rejoicing, quite innocent of
frirledge that a stray pellet had hit a lad who was
K down at the time, and invisible amongst some
f in that portion of his frame which nurses and
^[uardians of infancy suppose to present the safest
.to the sense of discomfort Claude was actually
nown to feast upon his prey, when lie was informed
Hnterpreler that he had better not leave the house,
■5 a case of blood for blood ; and he was so taken
pat instead of going for the lacerated one with
V plaster promptly, on which basis he might have
d the satisfaction of peppering the whole com-
r " a tergo " at hia leisure, to the general diffusion
flth and happiness, he stayed at home, ate the
L and entrusted the arrangement of the affair to
pprcter, who happened to be one of the bad lot.
Ickless victim certainly suffered severely, for he
nied to the hospital at Gifii, and experimented
W a native sawbones ; and after existing as a
If diachylon plaster, lint, and carbolic acid for a
ht, became tired of that sort of fun, and walked
b inquire about the money, which he had to share
IB sawbones and the interpreter.
(fcport of the circumstance was telegraphed from
p the Home Department in Tokiyo, whence
be was made to the Foreign Office, and thence to
ilic Works Department, whose magnates applied
Director of Railways, who wrote the Engineer-
whose departmental duties were being ad-
red during his absence by the Chief Assistant-

gS EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN.

Engineer, from whom I received the usual demand for
report The same was accordingly forwarded by return
mail over the same circuitous route, and nothing more
was heard of the matter.

As a further instance of tlie curious perversity of
opinion that we had to contend with, came an inquiry
from the Chief Assistant-Engineer, as to the truth of i
rumour that was freely circulating in Kobe, to the effert
that when Jimmy was attacked by small-pox, this same
Claude, who was known to be associated with him at
the time, left him alone, without any attendants, and
fled for protection to head -quarters. As I well knew,
Claude stuck by his sick companion throughout,
attended to him in all matters beyond the competence
of the native servants. So far from his fleeing to head
quarters, the head-quarters came to him with the di;
medicine-chest, a most portentous sight, which of i
nearly cured poor Jimmy ; and with the advice of a
kind German doctor attached to the general hospital i
Nagoya, one Dr. Junghans, the patient worked succes)
fully through his attack, which was fortunately of 1
mild type. 1 was more than a little indignant ol
Claude's behalf with our Kobe friends, but nev«
succeeded in tracing the origin of the rumour ; it irt
only certain that by some means the report was 1
circulation in the settlements within two days
the ailment that gave rise to it had declared itself.

We were very lucky not to have more of this trouhl
amongst us, for it was no uncommon thing to
children in a high state of eruption carried about
of doors by their mothers, as if nothing was the

SECOND YEAR'S WORK. 99

iince 1875, however, great progress has been made in
le way of vaccination, and the scourge, which has left
i evidences in the enormous number of scarred and
Und people met with throughout Japan, is now kept
iwn within very small limits.

Our ailments were chiefly such as a moderate use

tonics enabled us to contend against ; with a day or
■o in the house occasionally, in case of any disturbance

the system from exposure to the sun, or malarial
Suence. We managed to meet together in force from
DC to time at Nagoya, Ogaki, or the waterfall of
oro, a lovely spot in a gorge of the western hills ; and
iless some indiscreet person started the thrice-damned

iject of our departmental grievances, we were tolerably
Uy together. Among eight of us, not to mention
Irs. Ned and the baby, there was sufficient diversity
'character to make our intercourse amusing ; and as
c improved in command of the language, and became
ore independent of our interpreters, we could make
nonal acquaintance with such of the people as we
lanced to come in contact with on our expeditions

inquiry into the manufactures of the district, the
imasks of Kano, the pottery of Scto, and the cloisonne
ire of Nagoya.

Meanwhile, our work drew on merrily to its con-
IsJoo. Our Chief, on his second visit in the beginning
November, settled all doubtful points, and by the end
that month all extensions and alterations had been
lily polished off. Just as happened the year before,
■ first snows came down upon the hilly districts, as
completed our task ; and by the middle of December

EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN.

we had turned our backs upon the scene of our labours,
and retired upon KJyoto, there to take up our winter
quarters, and prepare our estimates. The rooms,
formerly occupied as residential quarters, in the railway
offices, were converted into a drawing office ; and
distributed ourselves about the city of Kiyoto
various temples and tea-houses, according to our several
wants and ambitions. I found what appeared to me a
most luxurious habitation about a mile out of the a.\y,
hard by the tombs of the Mikados ; and finished up thfi
year with a week of ague, brought on by a night journey
by road, up from Osaka to Kiyoto on Christmas Evt;
through mist and mirk, along the valley of the Yodo
river, first traversed exactly two years before.

C loi )

CHAPTER V.

THIRD YEAR'S WORK {1876).

fLT in 1876, the surveying staff" was broken up.

i that had been at work almost from the time of

t arrival in Japan, had first modified the sanguine

■ the Minister of Public Works, and then ex-

[Qtshed the hopes entertained by the Railway

lartroent, of the future of railway development in the

The revenue of the country, drawn almost

rely from the laborious farming class, and burdened

Jie maintenance of the now useless and practically

Ete caste of fighting men, could not be made to

1 a surplus, to be sunk in works not immediately

iductive, at all commensurate with the extent and

• of the claims brought forward to aid from the

lsur>' ; and the proposal of a new foreign loan for

works was firmly rejected by the Ministry. In

pie. the strategic value of a line of communication

the island was admitted, and it was therefore

lined that the links connecting Kiyoto with the

riake, and the lake with the west coast, should be kept

ih remembrance as having the first claim in case the

Expenditure of capital should be again found possible in

that direction ; but all else was indefinitely postponed.
In fact, the extension from Kiyoto to Otsu, was onJy
commenced in 1S79, and the separate link between the
lake and the sea in the following year.

The traffic on the first line opened, the suburban
railway, connecting the capital Tokiyo, with its port o(
Yokohama, which at the beginning had been very large,
seemed to fall off unaccountably ; and both that and
the length already opened in 1874, between Kobe and
Osaka, competed disadvantageously with the transport
by water of all heavy goods. There was still the line
between Osaka and Kiyoto in hand, without going any
farther ; and it was determined, after much vacillatioo,
that the efforts of the Railway Department should be
confined to this work for the time being.

The reduction of the engineering staff thus becaine
necessary ; and in the end of 1875 steps were taken tB
that end, some of them not well devised or immediately-
effective. We who had been appointed in 1873-^1
with agreements for three years' employment, were not
immediately concerned, though a tentative proposal
came to us, suggesting that, "as men of honour, w*
probably should not desire to cat the bread of idleness."
As, however, the possibility of such a state of thin^
coming about as was now impending had been for<
when we were appointed, and power reserved for tin
authorities to cancel our agreements without assignii^
any cause, upon payment of one year's salary, it
only necessary for us to remind them that the
part of the consideration that had brought
and thereupon leave them to take what

THIRD YEAR'S WORK. 103

thought fit ; whereupon, it no doubt occurred to them,
that as the said agreements had only about a year to
mn, they might as well have our services for their
money ; and so we heard no more of it

But in other directions reductions were ruthlessly
can-ied out, and empioyi^s unprotected by agreements
were set adrift. I mention this because it should not be
supposed that the old staff did not include several whose
assistance our Chief would willingly have retained had it
been possible to do so. The character of the change of
policy, and the pressure it brought upon the Railway
Department, however, from the end of 1875 onward, may
be estimated from the fact, that from a full strength of
twenty-five engineers and draughtsmen, reduced by
death and retirements to twenty-two at the date just
referred to, and again subsequently by another death

tind two retirements while the reductions by intent
were in progress, the remainder after the expiration of
I all the three years' agreements only numbered five, two
(rf whom belonged to the old staff, and these two again,
dying in 1877 and 187S, were, though much regretted,
' not replaced ; at least, not by additional engineers.

In the course of these changes, first Jimmy went
away to Yokohama, to take charge of the line between
that place and Tokiyo ; then Billy was called upon to
lalte a length on the Osaka-Kiyoto line ; Ned and Claude
were "lent" to the Mining Department, and went off
the extreme south ; James compromised with the
lent and went home ; Christopher returned to
friends ; and only Charlie was left behind in
■oto, awaiting expiration of his notice. I had

EIGHT YEARS m yAPAN.

myself taken over charge of the railway under construe
tion near Kiyoto, and had Charlie for a time as ai
assistant on the terminal station ; but I was now
according to our official nomenclature, a " Distrid
Engineer " doing duty as a " Resident Engineer, " my
statl" having evaporated, and except for seniority was just
on a level with my old friend Tom, who was on the next
length, and Billy who was half-way to Osaka. We all
set to work to push forward our line to completion, and
had a busy summer.

My length embraced a large quantity of bridgingr
arched flood openings to the extent of fifty spans of
fifteen feet opening; girder flood openings and bridge^
eleven spans of forty feet ; two smaller girder bridges
and numerous culverts ; and the " big " bridge across
the Katsura river, twelve spans of one hundred feet each.
A great deal of work had been already done by m/i
predecessor on the length, the earthworks and cuU'Crts
being virtually complete, with about half the arched
flood openings, and a good start made with the
foundations of the rest of the bridging. I

The key to the work was of course the big bri^4
and considerable difficulty was encountered in sinking
the foundation wells. The point of crossing was about
half a dozen miles from the mouth of the gorge through
which the river issued on to the plain, and the bed O'
the river was composed of gravel of all descriptions,;
from small shingle to good-sized boulders, brought downi
by the stream in times of flood, and more or less'
disturbed by every freshet. The actual bottom of the
main stream was some ten feet below the level of

THIRD YEAR'S WORK.

los

surrounding country, but the spaces within the flood-
banks that were dry except in time of flood and partly
cultivated, had been raised by successive deposits to
an average of six feet above the fields outside the banks,
Uid were themselves submerged at times to the extent
■ of several feet in depth, the top of the river bank being
wme ten or twelve feet above the enclosed ground and
early twenty above the fields. The main channel
Iras somewhat variable both in position and depth,
ind the whole deposit permeated by water, which, when
Ibe river rose, leaked out through the foot of the flood-
smk into the open country in many places, as the
uterial of which the banks were composed was the
ime gravel, barely covered by vegetable soil, and
mgthened by the roots of bamboos that grew all
\ the slopes. When the river was low, it drained
le surrounding stratum of gravel, so that our foundation
lits showed that the surface of the permeating water fell
bwards the channel ; but this was reversed with every
e of the stream above an average level, when the
nrfacc of the water in the pits fell away from the river
Bwards the flood-banks; and after the first few feet,
Dthe excavation within the wells had to be done under
Bter. My predecessor had devised a sort of circular
edge that acted very satisfactorily, but the difficulty
Bsto keep the wells upright as they went down.

In many places the gravel was so hard, that the
ells — great masses of brickwork twelve feet in outside
kmeter and two feet thick, bound together by iron
Igs and vertical rods — hung up on a mere shelf under
e sharp cutting edge with which they were provided

IOl3 EIGHT YEARS JN JAPAN.

at the bottom, while the centre was excavated several
feet below this edge ; and the danger and difficulty lay
in the runs made by the wells, sometimes without
warning, when the supporting shelf gave way, and the
difference of pressure owing to the great variability in
the consistence of the stratum frequently forced the wells
out of position. As this tendency increased with the
depth of the excavation, it was necessary to keep a con-
stant watch upon the dredging work, and use all possible
means to keep the wells from sticking up. Until w
were well below the bed of the stream, there was alwrays
a risk of a sudden flood producing a change in the
direction of the channel, and scouring away the gravel
so as to upset the wells ; for the bed of the stream had
many holes In il, that travelled about up and doffH
the river, and the occasional approach of which to sooie
of the wells was a source of great anxiety.

We worked night and day, when the weather per-
mitted; and on the wells nearest the stream, even
harder in bad weather than at other times, to get them
down on to a firm bearing before the freshets came down;
loading the brickwork at top with rails, so disposed as to
correct any observed tendency of the wells to cant over.
Many a rough day and night did I pass on the works,
till we succeeded in moving some refractory well from
an insecure position to a firm bearing, with the stream
rising and roaring through our stagings. We had only
one set of diving gear, and I had to send this away from
time to time for Billy to use, on a lot of similar wells
that he was sinking for the foundations of his flood-
openings ; but we worked amicably together, and did

THIRD YEJX'S WORJC.

107

best we could for each other. Our professional
T trained several Japanese, who seemed to take a
lelight in the work, and groped about in the darkness
the bottom of the wells, picking out the boulders from
ider the edge of the shoe, and coming up to the surface
r a rest and a whiff of their tiny pipes every twenty
inutes or so, with vivid descriptions of the particular
ate of some brute of a boulder that was holding up the
•ell on one side ; and then down they would go again,
and work at him till he was dislodged, and they had
to be hauled up sharp to the surface as the well began
to move, and the water and gravel boiled up over the
bp of the brickwork, as the great mass settled down
On to a fresh bearing below. Then the diving gear was
Aifted to the next well, and the dredger was set to work
Igain at the bottom.

Gradually we got the upper hand of our troubles,
h each pair of wells attained a safe depth below the
ked of the stream, and was filled up with concrete. The
i^iper works began to make a show, and it was curious
to see the change in the aspect of the works, as the big
•ells disappeared, and for all there was to be seen above
surface we might have been working three months
fcr nothing, till the plain brick piers were built up on
top of the buried wells, and the first of the iron
era were placed in position. By the time the
r floods of July came down out of Tamba, the
ince beyond the hills, drained by our river, we were
fe)rond all risk of anything but delay.
The work was much delayed when near completion,
erroneous idea having got abroad that the length was

EIGHT YEARS LV JAPAN.

much behindhand, so that a push was made to get the
line open up to the commencement of my length, and
everything sacrificed to this, and my remaining work
proportionately retarded. But after all I was only six
weeks behind, and had a fair share of departmental help
been given to me the whole length might have been
opened simultaneously with a great saving in expensft
As the Chief saw this, however, and did me ample justice,
I was well satisfied.

We opened the line into Kiyoto on the 5th of
September, the trains running to a temporary station
near Toji. As for the permanent terminal buildings,
the designs for which were only placed in my hands in
April, that was another affair, especially as they wo*
of a rather ambitious character, as befitted the situatioD>

The summer was an exceptionally hot one, and so
dry in the early months that there was a great loss of
rice, owing to the deficiency of water when the seed was
put down. As soon as the winter crops are partly
cleared off the ground, each farmer makes a little nursery
for his rice-shoots in a corner of his land, putting down
the seed thick, and keeping it covered with shallow water.
and nourished with manure, while he breaks up aniJ '
levels the rest of his farm, arranges his banks, and '
brings in his water supply ; then when the warm rains
of early summer begin to fall he transplants the young
shoots, some twelve or fifteen inches high, and separates
them to a distance of about eight inches, so that what
in the seed-bed covered only a space of a few square
rods, suffices for as many acres in the field.

This year, however, the summer rains were very late

THIRD YEAR'S WORK.

109

lountry dry, and a good deal of rice perished in
the seed-beds. I remember well going down to Osaka,
on one of my frantic expeditions after material that
seemed to hang on the hands of the transport depart-
ment long after it should have been delivered on the
work ; going part of the way by road, and getting on
to a trolly when I reached the rails, the coolies who
shoved me along being mournfully eloquent upon the
prospects of the season, explaining that rice was going
to be so dear that poor people would lie down by the
roadside and die, and the farmers be unable even to
sive seed for next season. They toiled along under
the brazen June sky, with many a grunt and many a
loppage, so that I thought I should never get to Osaka
-at least before nightfall ; but lo ! a little cloud " like
n's hand" came out of the sea, and presently
fathered on the flank of Rokkosan, and grew black
IDd spread over the western heavens, shutting out the
tniel sun ; while a little shiver, as of an awakening hope,
t from field to field, and then a cry rang out from
villages that the long-expected rain was at hand.
Tie toiling farmers put down their buckets beside the
iick seedlings and bared their breasts to the rush of rain
t swooped down from the hills. The yells of my
coolies as the first heavy drops reached us were enough
to bring the heart into one's mouth ; and when the
I ttinging shower struck them, they bent their backs to
F the work and whisked me along into Osaka at the rate
of nineteen to the dozen, whoopijig with glee I had to
get through my business at head-quarters, and start
off back by night, fearing a flood down the river; and

I 10 EIGHT YEARS IflT JAPA^.

sure enough the next day was none too long for us to
get all snug at the bridge, before the water began to
roar under our gangways and surge around the piers
and stagings. Just below the bridge, a new channel
was cut across one of the bends, wiping out the results
of much labour in cultivation of the ground where the
floods of former seasons had left their silt. We only
lost a few sticks that broke away from their moorings;
and some of those were aftenvards recovered from the
lower reaches of the river after the flood subsided. Yd
another flood had we in the beginning of July, but I
could laugh at it by that time.

Then came the hot season — late July and August—
the river bed like a furnace, and my scamps of rivetten
taking all the looking after I could give them. The
day the line was opened to Mukomachi, the station
Just short of my length, was a full one for us at Katsufi-
We had more than half the girders up, and I was dis-
porting myself with a theodolite at the end of the bridge,
giving lines for the adjustment of the rest, when suddenly
I caught sight of a little blue smoke in the middle of
a long thatched roof, over my stack of rail-balks.
Whewl the men under the bridge thought I was fairly
mad at last, probably, for an instant, as I bounced doiiti
amongst them and picked up a bucket of water for a
shy at the blazing straw, and then thrust it empty into
the hands of the nearest, turning him towards the river
channel, with a kick behind to expedite him. But fire
is no stranger in Japan, and in ten seconds every man
was ofl" the bridge and fighting for a bucket. I got little
Musha, my head cadet, to organize a line to pass up

THIRD YEARS WORK. 1H

Ac water ; but the roof was dropping in blazing fr^-
i on to the timbers beneath, so with a heave-yo !

1 a push with poles, hands, whatever we could get a
earing with, over it went to one side, and the men

armed on to the stack to fight the fire. The water
i^an to come in, the logs were rolled over and drenched
n every side layer by layer, and presently the tongues
)f flame ceased to dart up from out the chinks of the
lower tiers, and there was a horrid stench of steam and
thirred wood and smouldering straw. Before twenty
minutes were over, the last buckets of water were being
mirtly exchanged over heads and shoulders by the
Wiutty and scorched monkeys who were dancing on
te timbers ; and then we all went off to repair damages,
^ly plaster and arnica and sweet oil, assume decent
dolhing, and get our tiffins.

In about an hour's time I was returning to the bridge,
■ in mouth ; had exchanged a laugh with little
Kusha, who was trying to look as if he hadn't got a
Men yards of flannel twisted tight round his ribs where
I post had caught him as he rolled amongst the logs ;

id just had my foot on the beginning of the upstream
pngway, when two of the English foremen, the diver

i a mason from Billy's length, who had come up

IT a holiday, met me ; and one, touching his hat, said,
"I'tn sorry to inform you, sir, that Smith's drowned."
t naturally asked " Where .' " and was answered, " He's

t below the old bridge, and we can't get him up!"
'flow long has he been in ? " I shouted as I ran down

; bank to the spot, thinking there might yet be a

mcc ; but the reply, "About twenty minutes, sir!"

112

EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN.

sounded ominously in my ears. It was a deep hole
under the bank, where half an old bridge, wrecked by
the last flood, projected into the stream. Nothing was
to be seen of him from above ; but two of the native
divers were already in search of him, and presently
a shout from one of them, as he emerged and clung
to the piling, brought a boatful of men out into the
stream, one of whom leaning over the stem, caught
at something under water ; but it held, and he pulled
the bows under, spilling all the crew into the river.
They all scrambled out, and then one of the divers
went down and released a foot that had caught in
something, and the inanimate body of poor Smith was
hauled ashore. We tried to revive him, but he had
been in too long, and all efforts were fruitless.

It seemed that after a hasty lunch, the three English-
men had gone for a bathe ; and Smith who was only
learning to swim, had got beyond his depth while the
other two were racing down the river. When they
turned, they saw he was in a flurry ; so getting out of
the water, they ran up to the spot, where he had already
disappeared when they came up. They immediately
dived and found him, but in his efforts he had caught
his foot in the meshes of the "jakago" and they could
not release him. They tried till they were thoroughly
exhausted, being in about eight feet of water, and at
last gave it up, and dressed to come up and report.

They were so completely "done up" that it was
evident they had tried all they knew, and by the time
they were exhausted no doubt the poor fellow was past
help. It was a mournful termination to his work ia

TUIRD YEAR'S WORK. II3

Japan, where he had shown himself a steady, energetic
man. and a good foreman to the native masons. One
of the carpenters was set to work to make him a shell ;
and the remains were taken down to Kobe by the first
train next morning, and consigned to the grave in the
little cemetery that already held some of our dead,

As soon as the line below was opened for traffic,
i could get a little attention paid to my own wants,
Md we progressed merrily enough all through August,
all arrangements were matured for immediate use of
iterial when we could get it delivered. In the last
k of August we tested the big bridge, the Chief
iistant- Engineer telegraphing that it was "O. K,,"
the bewilderment of the inquiring Japanese ; and
listing in the ceremony of dedication, by means of
impagne and soda water. We had a train of heavy
rders and two of the largest tender-engines as a testing
and when we had finished the operation, the
I were run down to the next flood opening and
Ipped off the trucks, and were in their permanent
Lces by the next evening.

Meantime the Kiyoto terminus was progressing, the
ine-shed, turntable and water supply being of course
first things wanted ; and my Japanese staff seemed
lly to enjoy having everything at hand as it was
ited, and feeling the work going on smoothly step
step, "dan-dan," as they said, to its completion.
only difficulty was the granite for the clock-tower
entrance arcade of the station ; and at last, when
had received all I wanted for this work, of uniform
ir from one quarry, I relaxed in my demands, and

114

EIGHT YEARS IN yAPA.V.

accepted some of rather inferior appearance from anc
place for the rest of the building.

At one time the Railway Department had impc
a professed quarr^'man with a view to get systemati<
to work and supply good uniform stone for '
buildings ; but owing to some reasons not clearly sb
the man was never put to his proper work. What
Japanese call a quarry is in general a rough hill-
where they scratch for boulders big enough to spli
with wedges into the sizes required ; and when the)
an order for a large stone the whole strength of
quarrying gang are sometimes scratching around
weeks in search of the required boulder ; and if
is high up on the hill-side, when it is moved off its
and rolled down, it may gambol away into a n
or river, where it is so difficult to get at afterwards
a fresh hunt after another is instituted and all b
da capo.

We opened the line as before stated on the 5
September, and I had to shift from my little bun|
on the bank of the Katsura, into the city of Kiyoto a
finding a cosy little house within the precincts o
Ken-nin-ji temple under the eastern hill. At this
I was pretty nearly worn out, and all the lattei
of August my strength seemed to ooze out of my fi
and toes. I had no chance of becoming languid
exhausted and peevish I know I was, and nighl
morning I looked for any signs of a change ii
weather.

As I sat on the verandah of my bungalow a
the mosquitos of an evening (I had come not to

THIRD YEAR'S WORK.

e small nuisances), and looked over Kiyoto, I could
* night after night the thunderclouds come up from
lie lake and hang over the Higashi-yama, as it seemed
me. lit up with brilliant flashes of lightning that
brted about behind them and quivered right and left.
But the clouds always retired again about midnight,
iiid the next day opened with the same pitiless brazen

Almost simultaneously with my move into the city,

however, the season broke, and we had a week of heavy

rain, increasing hourly in violence, and a fine flood

ihcre was in all the rivers. Father Katsura rolled down

foaming over his shingly bed and rose to within a foot

ind a half of the embankment top, sweeping away all

Ibe road-bridges, and bursting his banks and those of

the Yodo river, where Iiis yellow waves shoulder those

rfthe Uji, the Kamo, and the Kidsu when they all come

tt^elher under the walls of the old castle of Yodo. No

iamage was done on my length, the breaches being all

Bw bridge; but many hundreds of acres ofcorniand

le flooded lower down, the water running back to the

■ and covering the main roads that skirted them.

I went down to Katsura when the flood was highest,

look after things there, and had a little play with

ugly-looking leaks through the banks near the

Ige; but with stakes and sand bags we kept them

rhile the flood was at its height, and as sooa as the

Ics burst below and relieved the pressure all danger

over. The farmers of the neighbourhood gathered

crowds along the banks, till called away to their

led flelds and swamped cottages \ and many

■

ii6

EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN.

envious muttered comment or half dubious quaver of
approval did I hear from them, as the yellow flooti
rushed harmlessly through the bridge. They were gild
enough to have the use of it for some days afterwar<^
there being no other bridge left for many miles up
down stream, and the river being far too nt[Md for
ferrying across till the flood had run ofT

Much damage was done also, I heard, in Tamba,
where the waters were dammed up at the entraDce of
the gorge, and a lot of rice ground was spoilt
is the place where the well-known " rapids " that
visitors to Kiyuto delight in are to be found — al
eight miles of pent up, tortuous water-course, occup]
the bottom of a narrow cleft through high hills. By
genious adaptation of the natural channels between
rocks, the stream is rendered Just navigable for boa*
of curious construction, with flexible bottom and sidi
barely kept in shape by one or two cross frames ; i
for long jointed rafts of timber that wind down tl
foaming reaches, bearing watchful guides, who knc
every cranny that affords a sure hold for their iron-sh(
bamboo poles, and every sunken rock and glassy si
of water they ride over. The boats are paddled, pole
and steered by brawny armed, keen-eyed men, and U
transit is well worth making, though in some states
the river rather risky ; that is, cither when the water
so low that the rocks in mid-channel are not sufficiead
covered, or when the river has risen so that the boat
men cannot see the points they depend upon, for
opportune push, that shoots them oiiT at right angli
some sharp bend, or a touch that keeps the boat's

for.
gtei

THIRD YEAR'S iVORK.

117

aight for some narrow gap. To ride down in the
first of a line of laoats, and look back after passing a long
irach of rapids and see the boats that follow come along
plunging and yawing down the stretches of foaming
water that appear among the crags, is good enough
(un to warrant the walk over the hil! pass out of
Yamashiro into Tamba.

This autumn was remarkable for a great " jishin," or
earthquake — in the official world, that is to say. The
Japanese give this name to an administrative crisis
that arrives periodically, — it is difficult to say whence or
•by, — and involves a re-construction of the ministry
(tlvays, however, composed of nearly the same persons,
but with a different distribution of duties) ; a general
tiismissal of all officials in the government service,
ianDcdiate re-appointment of three-fourths of them
temporarily, that is to say, until the next "jishin ;" and
•I strenuous effort to get rid, or get credit for getting rid,
<rf foreign assistance, by al! the departments.

In this case, there was no difficulty in assigning a
cause for the movement, which had a fully sufficient
motive, and was, in fact, part of a policy the times
*icndered imperative ; that was, a policy of pure economy,
hi alt branches of the government service. The deter-
mination of the ministry in this respect was first shown
two years carUer, in delay and reconsideration of the
ihief money-spending projects. Before 1876 it had taken
Jic shape of a forced commutation of the pensions of the
^izoku, who, instead of their regular incomes derived
fD(D the national revenue, had to take government
I payment of a sum supposed, in each case,

E!GHT YEARS m JAPA^.

represent the capitalized value of their income — capita-
lized that is. at from five years, applied to the largest
incomes, to fourteen years' purchase as applied to the
smallest. The bonds were to bear interest at five to
seven per cent.; which thus represented the amount of
the holders' pensions thenceforward, varying from oM
quarter to the full sum previously paid.

At the same time, by the establishment of National
Banks, empowered by charter to issue notes against these
government bonds deposited in the Treasury, the prosped
was held out to the shizoku of gaining the higher intt
to be earned upon capital commercially employed,
thus obtaining incomes equal to the original ones; so'
they would ultimately be no worse off, while the natii
burden would be greatly lightened. In forming an
of the justice of this scheme, irrespective of its political
expediency, it must be remembered that in Japan
ordinary loans on fair commercial security command an
interest of about twelve per cenL per annum, and more
in many cases, with but slight risk except from direct
fraud, against which precautions can of course be
prescribed.

Now, this arbitrary reduction of the pensions of th<
shizoku was designed to enable the government
afford substantial aid to the agricultural classes, h)l
whom a growing discontent had been manifested thai
threatened to become a real danger to the State ; ani
accordingly, the land tax, which had been equal to thre
per cent, upon the valuation of the bulk of the land und<
cultivation, was by Imperial Edict reduced to two an(
a half per cent, ; while it was also decreed that the locJ

THIRD YEAR'S WORK,

charges, amounting in some cases to another two per
cent., should in future be restricted to one-half per cent. ;
makiag the total burden upon the land for all purposes
no more than the Imperial Treasury alone had previously
imposed.

This great boon to the farmers, from whom over
four-fifths of the revenue was stiU to be collected, at
once extinguished the smouldering elements of civil
disorder amongst the rural population ; incidentally
tendering the vexed question of the mode of collecting
the land tax, whether in money or in grain (which,
according to the varying circumstances of price and
means of transport and sale, constituted at times a
grievance, whichever mode was adopted), of compara-
' lively little importance from that moment, while the
pleniifulness of currency resulting from the note issues
of the National Banks in course of time rendered the
practice of collecting grain obsolete everywhere.

At the same time, the commutation of the pensions
of the shizoku not being practicable all in a moment,
while there appeared to be grave reason for not delaying
the relief afforded to the farmers, a decree of general
economy in the government service was issued, and the
amounts allotted by the Council of State to the various
departments for the yearly service were cut down. Hence
the " jishin" of 1876, of which it need only be said, as
regards its political effect, that it probably aggravated
the hardships the shizoku, of whom a large proportion
are in government or local offices, had to suffer, while
aiding, in appearance only, the financial pressure of the
le ; and if not actually affording an incentive to the

go»en,meM;andi„spiicofn,

"■ ""^ '""iKd from it, must ,

wscactof,tatcsmansh/p,b,arii,
of the body politic a„j ^^^^^.

Astothc''jishi„,"o„branchon
"lent was affected to an extent
■nformed of at tile time-we, ;
staff; for in courtesy to the hie
were abolished, the alterations ,
™t.l the completion and state
K;y6to, which uas supposed to,
railway enterprise for U,e Ume h

ments that took effect in Febrna,
■n October, ti^, before which a„
to our disposers in T8kiyiin,m,
the mcumbrance of a director „i
and managers who were merely b,

Fonrof us.menof iS;3.4ha,
P"»d by an official inquiry ,„
summer, as to whether we w™ ...,

THIRD YEAR'S WORK. 121

d three of us, the eider and younger Toms and myself,
ad entered into fresh agreements, for another three years
Ithe latter two cases. Thcclder Tom made a different
Brangement, probably being better informed than we were
g to his proximity to head-quarters ; and the fourth
Ban was ultimately obiiged to retire, as by the time his
wiginal agreement expired, further changes in the views
of the authorities had come about. The other three men

our date departed from Japan before the end of 1876 ;

] the Chief Assistant-Engineer went away to Tokiyo,

eving the elder Tom, who returned to Kobe to do

y for a lime in a local charge.

EtGHT YEARS IN JAPAtt.

CHAPTER VI.

COMPLETION OF THE OSAKA-KIYOTO RAILWAY— THE
GREAT REBELLION OF I877.

The opening days of 1877 were remarkable fof tie
extreme uneasiness that was spread throughout all dassW
by the impending troubles. There were many who, mind'
ful of the prestige of the great fighting clan of Satsun*
and believing to the full the rumours, not only as to the
numbers of warriors ready to follow the lead of Saig"
Takamori, but as to the disaffection of the shizokn
throughout the empire, looked upon the overthrow of th*
existing government as a foregone conclusion; and
counted the strength of the navy, officered and mannw
almost entirely by Satsuma men, as so much moffi
weight to be placed in the scale that held the resources O'
revolution. There were among the foreigners in Japa''
many who also believed that if armed rebellion one*
broke out, it would be impossible to re-establish peac"
unless either the Satsuma leaders were victorious, or tb^
whole shizoku class destroyed ; and who justly lookef
upon this latter consummation as not within the bound
of reasonable probability. It was supposed that th
standing army at the disposal of the government

ivcrnment v^^^

COMPLETION OF THE OSAKA-KIYOTO RAILWAY. I23

efficient ; and that the policy of recruiting it from among
the "heimin " or unprivileged classes would show dis-
astrous results when the old fighting men arrayed them-
sdves generally, as was expected, on the other side. The
Mfiounced visit of the Mikado to Kiyoto, nearer by some
three or four hundred miles than the official capital to the
sane of the expected outbreak, was looked upon as a
piece of bravado that was not likely to be actually carried
out; and the preparations that were being made for a
peaceful pageant, that of the State opening of the rait-
way, to which all the representatives of foreign powers
*ere invited, were supposed to be merely a blind.

How we did "Jump around," as the Americans

Would say, that month of January! and by how many

murs we were ahead of requirements at the last I should

*ot like to say. The sort of " can't-be-helped " way of

"Oking at things, that seems to be the norma! state of

Japanese officials, was changed for the opposite phase,

■■Uring the prevalence of which every one gets hold of

^^ Qiething and does something with it ; a good and re-

•tshing state of things, if only direction be not wanting

' their efforts. It was required of us that we should

*ve the permanent terminus ready at Kiyoto for the

^rmal opening, if not for the arrival of the Mikado a few

'^^ys earlier; and we were able to get our task finished

^Md land his Majesty at the completed buildings.

The Emperor left Yokohama by steamer with an
^Scort of vessels of war in the last week of January, and
^rtcr being driven into the Toba anchorage for shelter,
^-s heavy weather was met with, finally reached Kobe on
'th, and was housed at the post office. We had

EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN.

notice to stop all traffic next day, and run a special train
through to Kiyoto, whicii was done in due course, tiic
whole length of the line being guarded by police, and
the stations occupied by detachments of troops. No
great parade was made otherwise, but our Chief rode up
on the engine, and all the engineering staff in charge of
the line accompanied the train. My first sight of the
Mikado was at Kiyolo, where, after the train and the
platform had been cleared, we were drawn up in linf
beside the door of the Imperial carriage ; and our little
Chief Commissioner, who had been riding with his
Majesty, stood opposite to us as the Mikado stepped on
to the platform and paused a moment. The Chief Com-
missioner said, " Gentlemen, 1 am ordered by his Majesty
to thank you for your care for his safety to-day ; " where-
upon we all bowed, and blushed like pickled cabba^i
and when we recovered saw the august cocked hat aM
coat-tails vanishing in the distance.

Next day we resumed the traffic as before, to tiie
temporary station, and a crowd of officials of the house-
hold department took possession of the permanent
building, and prepared it for the solemn function of the
Sth of February. The offices were fitted up as with-
drawing and reception rooms, and a sort of stage was
built out ill front of the station, carpeted and hui^
round with tapestry, with a goi^eous throne all proper-
All the approaches were decorated, stands for spectators
arranged, and curious devices set up, such as gigantic
lanterns, dwarf Fujisans, ships, engines, etc., with
Venetian masts, strings of lanterns and Sags, and so on,
and the same at both Osaka and Kobe. The saloon

W&)!iPLETlOtr OF THE OSAKA-KTYOTO RAILWAY. \2%

lage upon which the energies of the locomotive
^rintendcnt and the carriage department had been
mtrated for six months past, was secretly run up to
by night, as a thing " that mote not be prophaned
common eyes," and No, 20 engine was painted and
:red up until she looked almost quite too beautiful,
the driver and stoker, even in their Sunday coats,
by no means congruous ; so they were hidden in a
of evergreen cunningly attached to the cab.
My little bouse at Ken-nin-ji was for the time
ist in the midst of a metropolis of diplomatic talent ;
itlK temple with its surrounding houses was made the
the ambassadors, and I never went in or
mt feeling that I was a gross fraud, and that I
It to apologize to the crowd who congregated round
i entrance gates and discussed my personal appear-
ce audibly, supposing me to wield the power of
issia or represent the hauteur of Spain. These were
course the visitors from the country, as I was well
wgh known by most of the inhabitants of that
Wter of the city, and had even been caricatured, with
enonnous eyeglass and a very Roman-nosed waist-
t, by some local genius, upon the blank walls round
; enclosure of the temple. I always suspected a
tain shaven-pated blackguard, who used to come out
he chief priest's house and strike the hours upon the
bell, of this artless proceeding ; he devoted so much
E to watching me as I paced up and down under the
% with a cigar on fine evenings,

tl had to make a special run down to Kobe, where I
;d the last hat there was in the place, so as to

EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAIf.

make a fitting appearance at the impending solemnity.
We had been warned that nothing less than dress coats
and white chokers, with the regulation chimney-pot hats,
would qualify us to stand over against the fore^
representatives upon the platforms at Kiyoto, Osaka, and
Kobe, subject to the gaze of thousands, while addresses
were being presented and prayers recited. Of course
some priests were mixed up in the matter, as indeed has
been the case elsewhere than in Japan on occasion of
railway festivities within my knowledge : for I remem-
ber a certain first sod, the turning of which, hard by the
most insignificant of Sussex watering-places, involved a
prayer, a speech to a toast, and a tearful collapse, from
each of three rival parsons.

The morning, though bitterly cold until the sun w»s
well up, turned out bright and glorious, and we soon
warmed up as the Imperial train started away from
Kiyoto, amid great firing of guns and shouts from the
populace. We engineers had a compartment ne.tt the
engine, with a friendly reporter and a pack of cards
At Osaka, a stoppage, and grave solemnities, firing «
cannon, addresses, general enthusiasm, etc. ; then en route
for Kobe, where more solemnities were perpetrated anO
Admiral Vt^ron and Mr. Thomas Brassoy were presented
and the governor of the Hiogo Ken lost his head firsi
and his cocked hat and his north point subsequent!)
and various impromptu alterations of the programm
were attempted by an enterprising person who ha
been pitchforked out of some election committee into
consulship.

Then there was a grand scramble for lunch, laid oi

COS/IUiTJOJ^ OF THE OSAKA- KIYOTO RAILWAY. 12/

in a room thirty feet by twenty, for five hundred people,
we hungiy engineer, who had been up since half-past
five that morning, getting a French roll and a bottle of
«er for his share. The word was soon passed that the
Mikado had had enough of it, and wished to get out of
the way of Mr. Consul as soon as possible. So after
■ brief wait while that gentleman was being dodged
Wind the passages, and at last shunted into a spare
■aiting-room, we started back, making the best of our
^ to Kiyoto without a stoppage. We arrived there
lafely, notwithstanding that we were turned through a
iHing at one station, instead of going by the direct line,
insomuch that after charging the points at the rate of
Biirty-tive miles an hour, we were not quite sure if we
ttre all right for a few seconds : and afterwards were
solated by the barely averted destruction of our Traffic
Manager's head against one of his own signal-boxes at
Osaka, which would have spoilt all the fun we derived
inin hearing the ambitious consul's private address to
&K Mikado, read by our friend the reporter, who was the
bIc recipient of the document.

However, we did the forty-seven miles in an hour and
'Ihirty-five minutes ; say a rate of thirty miles an hour
ill through, which was quite fast enough for our narrow
?uge; and his Imperial Majesty was good enough to
Ht short the final ceremony at Kiyoto, so that we were
eeat half-past four or thereabouts.

The prettiest feature of the whole affair, to my mind,
IS the conduct of the country people all along the
nte. Wherever suitable ground could be found outside
e fence, about on a level with the rails, spaces had

128 EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAff,

been marked off to be occupied by tbe school-children
from the various villages of the district; soms of these
spaces extended alongside the line for half a mile
together. Each school was in charge of its teachers
and the mayors and principal inhabitants of the viliagM,
and as the Imperial train approached and passed the
bands of eager girls or wondering-eyed boys bouxd
their heads and rose again, changing the bright field of
expectant faces into an expanse of black polls, and then
breaking out again with the flush of accomplished
ceremony as the little ones clapped their hands ind
gazed after the vanishing train. The successive move-
ment of the different corps of children had an elfat
like the passing of a summer cloud across a ripeaing
cornfield.

Then we had yet another journey to make to Osalo.
for on that evening a banquet was given to the princip»l
government officials and local authorities, in the cj^
hall, whereunto we were bidden ; and here also wraa
great enthusiasm. Our retiring director made a speech,
in which he demonstrated that Tokiyo and. KiyoW
being each connected with a seaport, and the coast
service of mail steamers being now in tiie hands o(
a Japanese company, the main trunk railway was M
good as completed ; and our Chief sang His swan's-song,
and bade his staff farewell. A twenty minutes' oration
by the editor of the Choya-SkimbuH, who had come
down from Tokiyo with the rest of the distinguished
visitors, received (on its conclusion) the most rapturous
applause from both Japanese and foreigners, though
I don't suppose the latter understood any part of i^

THE GREAT REBELLION OF 1877. I2g

it the " sor^-kara " and "so-shitiJ," which are about
nuch as if one should say " then " and " therefore."
'ards the end everybody began to make speeches,
address our Chief Commissioner as "Your Excel-
on the strength of his appointment as Junior
^-minister of Public Works, and the wise ones
^bt their hats and coats, and avoided the tumblers
champagne that were hospitably -pressed upon the
arting guests.

We all had to go to Kobe, as there was no train to
to; and somebody lost his boots on the way. It
for a time supposed that he had put them on
the step to be cleaned, before he should get up in the
Bioming, on entering the carriage ; but at last they were
ind in the next compartment. And so finally we all
t to bed and ended this eventful day.
While, however, enthusiasm and loyalty were in the
Cendant in Settsu and Yamashiro, the ill-omened
of the Satsuma forces had already commenced,
Saigo had issued his proclamation that he would
"attend the Emperor at Kiyoto, with ten thousand men,
to present a petition." The government troops were
already hurrying to Fukuoka, to seize the vantage ground
cf Minimi-ga-seki and bear back the tide of rebellion.
The fortress of Kumamoto was invested, and the garri-
son, the only show of Imperial authority in Higo, were
pent within their walls. And Kido was dying in
ito, and his scared colleagues, the Ministers of State,
holding council by his death -bed.
ut those who wish to read the story of the great
:Uion of 1877, may find a far more complete account
K

I30 EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAIf. '

of its causes, purposes, and ultimate fate, in Mounse/j
careful monograph, than could be attempted her^
There they may read the story of the desperate valour
and ungrudging devotion of life and fortune displayei
by the adherents of a cause fore-dcwmed to failure, a
was afterwards seen, though at first it was promisiiq
enough ; of the steadfast face presented by the army
overmatched in the beginning, to its powerful adversaij;
till his progress was stayed and retreat compelled ; of tin
lingering collapse of the rebellion, staining the mounts
fastnesses of Hiuga with uselessly shed blood ; of thi
waste of life and treasure that went on through tbS
sad summer, till the 24th of September saw KawamuE
reverently washing the severed head of his old frie»
Saigo Takamori, dead by his own hand on the slopes C
the hill that was the scene of his first preparations, a
of the final volley of his victorious opponents.

It is only, however, with side aspects of the rebellioi
that we foreigners in Japan had really to do ; and it i
not without satisfaction that one sees that the strvg^
was fought out in a fair field, between the representaliw
of two schools of political action that could not a
tc^ether for their country's good ; and that no hireliil
aid or outside scheme came into play, but that when i
was over there was no one of the victors who could nfl
honour his worsted foe, no survivor of the vanqutshC
who was tempted to look for sympathy and chuil
elsewhere than to his countrymen, or to refuse froi
hands no longer unfriendly the aid of which he stoo
sorely in need. The Satsuma men who revolted pi
their all, as Satsuma men, upon the struggle, and los

THE GREAT REBELLION OF 1877.

131

I are now merged in a wider tiationality, accepted
rom the beginning by the wiser of their own kin,

Mytask at Kiyoto was finished, and my new superior,
ihc elder Tom, called me to Osaka to take charge of
\ portion of the open line for so long as I should remain
upon his section. By the middle of February I was
icttled in a comfortable first-floor of a foreign-built house
In the centre of the concession at Kawaguchi. with
uissionaries to the right of me, to the left of me, in front
tod, for aught I know, behind me also. The progress
if events had pretty well cleared out the foreign trading
KKnmunity from Osaka ; if I recollect rightly, there were
oly a tailor, a tobacco-buyer, and a Swiss who dealt in
ivcT>'thingf, from a pinch-beck pencil-case to a Krupp
ireech-Ioading rifled cannon, to represent the "red-haired
nd green-eyed ones." Some few odds and ends of the
cholastic or professional callings were there, and the
cmatns of the once large staff of the Imperial Mint ;
Kit these were mostly at the other end of the city. All
he best houses were occupied by the laborious and
nmble-minded Propagators of the Gospel, by the
ttiricg Church Missioner, or other variety of self-sacri-
tiDg fishers of men ; and the best church, of course,
IcJonged to the Roman Catholics.

I found plenty of work in the maintenance of the
he, and renewal of some of the bridges, the timber
l^)erstructures of which were getting rather shaky

ady. The hardest thing, though, was the keeping
^of a little branch line, from the Osaka station to a
f on the Aji branch of the river; it had been in-
3 to close this any time for the last two years, and

132 EIGHT YEARS J.V JAPAX.

little had been done to it in the way of repairs till the
increasing weight of the more and more powerful engines
that we had to use raised the fear that they might be
unreasonably detained in some tidal ditch or other ; and
then there were some lively juggling with beams and
bedstones and new timbers to avert such a catas-
trophe. This little branch had existed, in connection
with a tramway to the Mint, for several years ; but the
bridges on the main line, which had not yet b(
completed so much as three j-ears, between Kobe a
Osaka, were already giving much trouble. As will be
seen further on, the original mistaken policy of using
bad native material ultimately led to enormous expense
in renewals ; and our experience in Japan was alma*
conclusive against such a temporary economy as can bi
effected by making lines of important traffic on shoddj
principles.

In March and April we began to see some of A
sad results of the fighting in the south: ship loads 4
wounded men were brought up to Kobe, and transporttt
by train to Osaka, where a large military convalescefll
hospital had been established. The majority of t
cases were sword cuts, and the shot wounds were neai^
all in the head or neck ; but this was in consequence d
one of the peculiarities of the fighting, in which t
spade played a great part. The district through viWd |
the Imperial troops began slowly forcing the rebd g
back towards the south, was of a broken and uneve
surface, composed of knots of low hills commandii^ .
small stretches of open country, and of a loamy soi .
easily excavated ; and ranges of pits were dug by til

THE GREAT EEBELLION OF iS;/.

J parties, who in a manner sapped up the
3 towards the positions occupied by their opponents,
s of stratagems were practised to get the men in
LD enemy's pit to show themselves, and give a chance
for a successful shot ; and great individual valour was
displayed in sudden rushes and invasions of the enemy's
ground on a small scale. When it came to hand-to-
hand fighting, the rebels had the best of it, being better
swordsmen than the array ; but it was a war of small
parties scattered over a considerable space of ground,
and at last the weight of numbers told, the government
piling on fresh troops every day, while their opponents
bad to draw together and give ground. About the
middle of April the siege of Kumamsto was raised, a
junction being then effected between the army forcing
its way south from Fukuoka and an expeditionary force
that had been landed south of Kumamoto to take the
main position of the rebels in the rear ; so that Saigo
could no longer hold his ground before the fortress, and
Bne night slipped away into the hills to the eastward.

At the same time, however, disconnected bodies of
«bels appeared sometimes in rear of the Imperial troops ;
Ud the worst lot of cases we saw in Osaka were a
iumber of men suddenly removed from Fukuoka, in
consequence of a rebel raid upon that place threatening
Ihc depots there. These poor fellows were most of
tern in no state to be moved, and numbers died on the
Foyage; some in the train, and some even on the plat-
bnn of Osaka station. Two or three times a week a
nin of wounded would be telegraphed ; and then the
ion was cleared, and the waggons brought alongside

EIGHT YEARS ly JAPAJ^.

the platform, & number of coolies with Utters coming in
and carrying off the suffering soldiers in sad procession
through the streets to the castle. There appeared to
be no lack of attendants or supervision, and so far as my
own observation enables me to say, I think the arrange-
ments were most creditable to the authorities and the
medical staff, who must have had an enormous number
of casualties on their hands by midsummer.

At the same time we had crowds of troops coming
in for transport to the front, some of the regiments being
apparently composed of raw lads just taken from the
hoe and manure-pail, and evoking pity by their evidenl
clumsiness with the weapons supplied to them ; while,oil
the other hand, some of the bodies of police, convertel
into soldiers for the occasion, showed all the old martial
bearing of the samurai, and were found worthy opfXt-
nents, with the sword, for the Satsuma athletes. TIk
lower classes amongst the troops did good service too, it
must be said, owing to their marching power, they being
wisely permitted to wear the straw sandal to wbidi
they were accustomed ; so that in the latter stages of the
waning rebellion, the wearied insurgents were tired out,
and harried into surrender by the activity of the govern-
ment forces rather than actually beaten in fight- It was
impossible to withstand the evidence of undoubting
loyalty and devotion with which the newly raised troops
went forward to their perilous task ; whether they were
the " shizoku," who had the spirit of their ancestors to
animate them, or the " heimin." who only felt ih
immediate call of their governors to the work in hand

All anticipations, freely indulged in by foreigne

THE GREAT REBELLION OF 1877.

13s

jefly, as to the outside assistance the rebels might
wve from other discontented factions in the country,
e completely falsified by the event. Though, it was
rwn, disaffection towards the existing government
irife in some districts not far removed from the scene
iction, no substantial aid was afforded to the Satsuma
els ; partly, it may be believed, on account of the well-
wn bad faith of the clan towards its allies, whom it
1 ignored and despised after assured victory in former
i, and more evidently because in other provinces the
!s of the people's leaders were rather based upon
kipations of winning more liberal conditions of
"cmment than upon any reversion to the old lines
i which the action of Satsuma was associated. It
rue thatSaigo in some of his proclamations hinted at
Hilar institutions, but nobody supposed him to know
fi about them or believed in his sincerity.
Then the princes of Satsuma themselves held aloof
I the rebellion ; and though maintaining what
^a^ed to be a doubtful attitude, never committed
mselves to actually disloyal action ; so that the
; appeared divided, though probably in case of
ess the rebels contemplated condoning their princes'
r\-e, and the actual leaders, the men of action, would
! deferred to the ancient reputation of the house
yUmadcu and headed their organization with the
t of Satsuma.

It may be said that the result was no longer doubt-
after the first failure of the rebel forces to reach
njoka, though the succeeding desperation prolonged
struggle and its attendant misery. No doubt the

136 EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAX.

resources of the government were severely tried, a'
no slight task for a nation like Japan to expand »
standing army of thirty thousand men into an active
corps of three times that number, and conduct operations
over a period of eight months of actual fighting, involv-
ing the use of all modern appliances of war in a country
exceptionally dlthcult, away from the coast, to traverst
And to the public effort was added the misery of many
helpless ones: pathetic tales came to us, from Tokiyo
especially, of the utter break-up of households, whose
heads had fallen in the struggle, or whose bread-winnets
were called away ; of women once possessed of happ?
homes, now destitute in the streets of the capital : 0*
children once cherished, imploring, for pity's sake, o*
unknown passers-by the price of a handful of rice, o^
leave to lie for a night on the meanest mat that a roo'
might shelter.

The conduct of the ex-daimiyos generally during
this time was very reassuring, both as showing th»t
they still kept up a more than nominal connection witl*
their former territories and people, and as evidenc"
that they could either originate, or respond heartily
to, the idea of using their surplus funds in practical
benefactions to the several districts. Most of then
visited their former daimiates, meeting the head men
of the districts in open and free consultation as to the
local and general wants of the country, giving- money
and advice, and using their influence to check dis-
content

While these events were progressing, my humble
avocations occupied me fully, though not exclusively

THE GREAT REBELLIOy OF 1877.

137

Bid as the weather began to get hot, I found the
irork became rather a burden to me; for the climate
of Osaka was sadly relaxing to my constitution, inured
s it was to the rough living and scanty pleasures of
K interior, so that in spite of running down to Kobe
bout twice a week, for a game of cricket and a plunge
in the sea, I fell out of condition, and received a strong
t that I had better see the doctor. Truth to tell.
lie did not find much the matter with me, but only
Rcommended a change ; and I succeeded in getting
» month's leave without a medical certificate, having
lecn at work without a break, except for a few days in
'February of 1875. since I had first started up countr)-.
I suppose it to be the want of backbone generally,
in the constitution of the Japanese civil service, if
wvice it can be called, that causes the reluctance of
'the authorities to dispense even temporarily with
Working members, while idling members may idle to
.their hearts' content. I was, I will not say unfortunately,
Me of the working division ; and this month in 1877
*as the longest "spell off" I had during the whole
tf my eight years and more, and just a half of all the
feavE I enjoyed during that time. However, I had
' in band the work of regaining my health, and
1 got away from all other duties rejoicing, the two Toms
idding divisions of my length to their respective charges
br the time 1 was away.

138 EIGHT YEARS m JAPAS.

CHAPTER VII.

HOLIDAY trip: NIKKU, THE KAKA-SEN-DO, AND E

I LEFT Kobe for Yokohama in the Nagoya Maru, Utc
the Oregoniati, now one of the mail boats of the Mitsu-
bishi M.S.S. Company, as formerly of the Pacific M.S.S-
Company. My boy, or Japanese servant, who had
been with me three years, and was an expericnca)
traveller, accompanied me, and my baggage includw
clothing for all weathers, as my intended journey
through the interior would take me into high ground,
and the month of June is, moreover, the most uncertain
in the whole year, including as it docs the early part
of the rainy season, the date of commencement of
which cannot be reckoned upon within the limits of a
fortnight or so.

The passage to Yokohama was a disagreeable but
speedy one, the weather being overcast, with heavy
rain at intervals and a rising wind. Not having beer
on the sea for three and a half years, I was unabli
to make a meal during the passage except on biscuit
and soda-water. But thirty-three hours soon pass awa)
especially if two nights are included, and when we wer
running up the Bay of Yedo on the morning of the 6tl

BOLZDAY TRIP: NIKKO, THE NAKA-SEN-DO,AND ISE. 139

I was quite able to enjoy the fresh breeze, and the
changing views of the sunny coast — for it was bright
leather again. We dropped anchor at nine o'clock,
and I was soon on shore ; and driving to the station,
took the first train for Tokiyo, where I put up at the
iiouse of my friend Hugo, whom I had left in possession
of my quarters at Osaka,

The remainder of that day and the four next were

■ aeroted to calling upon my few acquaintances in TokJy5

3nd Yokohama, by whom I was hospitably entertained,

^Ud making the preparations necessary for my Journey

*^'Verland. My official pass, between Tokiyo and Kiyoto,

<^overed the greater part of the ground I proposed to

*«"3verse ; but as I intended to go north at first, and work

•"ound west and south afterwards, I thought it best to

S«t another passport for the whole journey, which was

irrmediately granted on a medical certificate of a very

S«neral character, stating simply that my health might

*^ improved by a trip in the interior. This I received

^n the 10th, and my preparations being complete, I took

passage for self and servant in the coach running from

Tokiyo to Utsunomiya, tlie first large town on the great

north road, about seventy miles away, to start the next

•^lorning at five o'clock.

I was up before dawn on the nth, having to cross
•■C city, a distance of fully five miles, to the point from
^'hich the coach started, and left Hugo's house at
■'niba at a quarter-past four. The only visible inhabi-
•Snts of that part of the city were the crows and the
°'>gs. and a couple of storks flapping lazily along the
'^^stle moat as the sun rose ; but a few people appeared

EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAH.

as we went on, crossing the district swept by the gTMt
fire of the previous year, now already covered with new
wooden buildings, amongst which the fire-proo6
godowns that withstood the flames were dotted about
some still showing the marks of fire, but mostly it-
plastered and pointed up " better than new,"

We reached the coach office at ten minutes past
the hour, and not seeing anything of the coach '
thought for a moment that it might have observed a
non-Japanese punctuality, and actually started without
me ; but I soon found that the horses were still in
the stable. The " coach " was a small covered waggon
with leather springs, or ratlier slings ; a rough bu*
strong affair capable of holding, at a pinch, eight persons
beside the driver and cad, or "betto " as he should be
called. My baggage, rather too bulky, occupied the
box seat and the available space under the other places,
and in addition to myself and servant there were only
three other passengers, two old men and a young oM'
bound for Sendai, the most important place in the
northern part of Japan.

The horses, strong-looking ponies (one having be*"
named " Iron Safe," as a jocular person with a sligW
knowledge of English told me when taking the extn
money for my baggage), were now speedily harnessed,
and we started at half-past five, it being by tliis time
broad day. and the streets full of people. We rattled
along merrily through the squalid suburbs ; then passed
at a walking pace a vegetable market held in the street
of the first detached village, and entered upon the
monotonous flat country beyond, an immense stretch

IBUDAYTRIP: NIKIiO, THE HAKA-SEN-DO, AND ISE. I4I

Fn'ce land intersected by sluggish streams and dotted
lith villages. Every half hour or so we stopped to
P»sh out the ponies' mouths or change the team at
Ome ricketty shanty, cups of tea and saucers of swect-
leats being handed up for our refreshment and paid
br with odd coins of any small value indifferently.
ix hours of this fun brought us to Kuri-hashi, a village
ta the banks of the Tone-gawa, a large river with high
lood-banks. Here we left our coach, and were ferried
looss the stream, and while another trap was being
tadc ready and the baggage brought over we had tiffin,
iiad previously consumed some sandwiches, but feeling
Bsatiified had a couple of eggs and some bread,
iowevcr, the superior comfort of the boy and my fellow-
Bssengers, who had a regular Japanese meal properly
erved, made me resolve in future to follow their example
Aen on the move, and I always afterwards had a
S^^anese tiffin. In fact, I developed quite a taste for
Ice and pickles, not even excepting the infamous
'daiko," the dread of foreigners ; it being a half-putrid,
Wf-salted preparation of large horse-radish, and the
Snest thing in the world to make rice go down, for if
^u take a piece and chew it well till the taste is all
her your mouth, you w"ould, I believe, eat anything
fee in the world afterwards to get rid of the taste
gain, so that four or five bowls of rice, one of which
Buld stay an ordinary appetite wthout this ingenious
Etsoning, disappear with rapidity.

' While we were refreshing ourselves rain came on,
|)d continued to fall steadily, so that the remainder
'the day's journey was very dreary. The road runs

142

EIGItT YEARS IN JAPAN,

through a long avenue of trees, interrupted only
villages, — cedars, firs, or cryptomeriaa, many of
last of great age, if size is any criterion. The ponies
plodded on doggedly, and the driver went to sleep,
or dozed rather, for I kept a look out ahead and at
each of the narrow bridges roused him up in time for
him to pull the trap straight ; otherwise we should
certainly have come to grief. Utsunomiya was reached
at dusk, after thirteen and a half hours, includioE
stoppages, for the seventy miles. We were soon housed
in a large inn, full of guests ; and after getting a little
dinner I went to roost, if a bed on the floor can 1*
called a roost, hoping for few such weary days iflh*
journey was to be of any benefit to me.

All hands were up betimes next morning, but the
couple of hundred guests at the inn were all on the road
before I made a start, and then it was only ten minutes
past seven. The morning was fine, but the roads heavy
with yesterday's rain ; still we made good progress with I
two men to each jinrikisha. The fine avenue stiU
continues on the road to Nikko, my destination this
day, and the main attraction that drew me northwards.
A somewhat shorter road than that by Utsunomiya
joins in at a long village called Imaichi, about eighteen
miles from the first-named place. This also is bordered
by trees throughout its whole length, and is generally
considered to be the Nikko road ; but the advantage
of using the coach had induced me to go a little round-
about, and so get more quickly over three-fourths rf
the distance.

At Imaichi I had tiffin, and then went on to Nikko,

tUDA y TRIP: mXKO, THE NAKA-SEN-DQ, AND ISE. I43

'rather Hachi-ishi, the town near the celebrated shrines
M give the general name to the place. Here I found
igood lodging at a house recommended by Hugo,
Dtding the so-called "foreign" hotel, which, in mj
{lerience of Japan, means generally in the interior
Komfort, dirt, bad food, and high charges.
'After a short rest, I set out to visit the celebrated
Dbs of ly^yasu and his grandson lyemifsu, the former
,whom was the first Shogun, or Tycoon, as we used
style the person who was supposed, until our agents
Japan had fathomed the institutions of the country,
(be a "secular emperor" in contradistinction to the
Bkado, whose functions were imagined to be exclusively
IHritual" lyemifsij, the third Shogun, was assassinated
Ic visiting his grandfather's tomb, and buried close
with almost equally splendid surroundings.
In my ignorance and imprudence I was struggling
long alone, having passed the foaming river with its
lion coloured sacred bridge, closed of course against
le vulgar, as one of whom I traversed a second bridge
in a few yards distance ; and was ascending the
ft bank of the river (which I am still convinced was
le right way to go), when I was overtaken by my boy
a professional guide, who loudly remonstrated
[^nst my disregard of all precedent, and took me a
of uninteresting shrines and pagodas, and sites
lere daimiyos' houses used to be " when they were."
kn we came out through a gap in a broken wall
on a place where a building of some size had been
imtly burnt down, and found standing unhurt a tall
ick pillar with a gilt cap and bells, and two large

144 EIGHT YEARS W JAPAN.

lanterns of cast bronze in front of it The pillar was
inscribed with characters of gold, supposed to be the
names of pious nobles ; and I took it to be quite ;
modem erection, but it was said to be two huudrcd
and fifty years old ; that is, to have been erected in
the time of lyemifsij. Passing this we suddenly came
out upon a rising causeway leading up to the main
torii, or gateway, of the kind peculiar to Shinto shrines ;
consisting of two massive pillars slightly leaning
towards each other, connected by a cross piece mortised
through them a little below the top, and by a loi^
beam over all, which is additionally supported by B
small slab resting on the centre of the lower cross-piece,
Small torii are made of wood, large ones of stone;
but this appeared to be of bronze, or the stone cased
with bronze. It was erected haif by somebody awJ
the other half by somebody else, whose names are duly
inscribed on the pillars, but there is no explanatios
of what portion of the upper beams belonged to eadl'
subscriber.

Passing this gateway, or portal, for gate there is nodB
at this spot, we entered a court at the foot of a hi^
flight of steps. On the left is a pagoda of five stwid
most gorgeously carved in all the panels, and painted ll
blue, green, Vermillion, white, and black, and omamectei
with copper, brass and gilding. The efTect of this rathO
barbaric display is extremely good in its situation, ti
lower part relieved against a dark background
cryptomerias, and the upper roofs and lofty metal sfN
against the sky. The style of architecture and of o
ment is much the same throughout the buildingi

HDUDAY TRIP: NIKKO, THE NAKA-SEN-DO, AND ISE. I45

Hiough the shapes and arrangements vary considerably,
Wd consists of an almost infinite reduplication of a few
tfcmentary forms obviously dictated by tlie materials of
fe structure, which is wood alone for the essential parts ;
namely, round pillars, projecting brackets, straight beams,
«)d over-hanging rafters. The carving is almost absent
iwi the pillars, which, however, carry gilding and metal
mments and fastenings ; the main braclcets and beams
B carved with scrolls on the edges and faces ; the rafters
■lilarly. but on the ends only ; while the intervening
Uels and minor projections are worked in the most
Sborate designs, representing gods and goddesses,
Bsters, birds, beasts, and flowers, besides the clouds
i the waves, the forest trees, and the sun, moon, and
The colours applied appear crude and gaudy on
ar view, but as seen from a little distance they have,
the whole, a very good effect ; and the ornament
rally is so disposed as to emphasize rather than
ceal the main structural features. The roofs, as in alt
cse temples, are very striking with their bold pro-
is, lofty ridges, and graceful curves and corners ;
I are mostly covered with copper plates shaped like
Es, convex and concave alternately, with elaborately
IdcMgned gable and hip ornaments.

At the foot of the steps I was charged an admission
r a few pence ; and having ascended them, I was
sted to put my pipe out, as the atmosphere of the
I places was not to be sullied by tobacco smoke ;
ented with a sigh. The principal objects of
lurtyard we now entered, called the lower court,
I glorified stable for ly^yasu, his horses, or such

EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAfl.

representatives of them as may be supposed serviceabi
for bis present purposes ; and three closed building
containing valuables, that are only displayed at r»r
intervals to the faithful, or others with cash.

Then another flight of steps led us into the middli
court, where are more closed buildings, and some brons
lamps and models of great value, brought from Cores
and Loochoo, or Holland even, as well as from places ii
Japan itself The most striking thing here visible isthi
gateway and enclosing wall of the third or upper court
the outer surface of the wall is can-cd in panels abou
nine feet long by six feet high, very boldly and effcctivel;
designed and coloured. The gateway is carved in open
work, with the designs made to show fair both inside an
out. while the roof that surmounts it is ornamented wio
chased metal plates.

Within the third courtyard are three shrines of pti
beauty, besides the principal temple, to which I w(
admitted upon removing my boots at the gate ; for tili
also has its special gateway and inclosing wall similar!
those of the third court, but on a smaller yet sli
more elaborate design. The interior of the temple ■
unique in point of richness and ornamentation, and d
general effect, if we can imagine it in a room about fif
feet long, twenty-five wide, and only fifteen high, isn
a little like our House of Lords. Opening out of t
front room is a smaller one, to which one descends 1
four or five steps; somewhat less imposing than t
first, but closed at the back by three pairs of panel!
doors, completely covered by highly worked gold,
perhaps gilt, plates. Beyond this no eye is ]

tOLlDAY TRIP: NIKKO, THE NAKA-SEN-DO, AND ISE. I47

see, though there is a large building behind, some
ly feet square, the roof of which is visible from the
(side.

All around both these rooms are hung paintings and
rvings in frames, and the ceilings are panelled and
fered and gilt, with small painted medallions in each
After trying to take in all the splendour I gave
np, and with a bow to the priest who had completed
He observations, the import of which I confess I did
t understand in the least, I descended the steps and
amed my boots.

We then passed out of the upper court by a side
!, over which is carved with great skill the figure of
[ecping cat, and nnouiUed a long paved path and
bts of two hundred and five steps in all, leading to
tomb itself of ly^yasij, which lies higher up the hill
ind the temple. At the top of the steps is a small
rtyard, with a praying-room that is by no means
arkable ; and passing round to the rear of this, a few
e steps lead up to the platform on which the tomb is
«d, in a space enclosed by a stone balustrade. The
b is a circular base of three steps, in front of which
id the usual emblems, the stork, the lily, and the dog,
ironze. On the summit of the steps is a circular
al casket, with doors fastened by a most portentous
lock, and surmounted by a plain tapered pinnacle.
ind this rises the crest of the hill on the slope of
di the whole assemblage of buildings is placed ; and
lofty trees with which, outside the courts, the hill is
1 from top to bottom, close in around the tomb,
• gaunt trunks shutting out all external objects, : nd

148 EICH7 YEARS !N JAPAN.

their clustering heads shading the simple casket and
emblems, that contrast so strongly with the gorgeous
elaboration of the courts and temples that serve as
ante-chambers to the last resting-place of the great
Shogun. I

Returning down the hill, and noting as wc passed ,
through the three courts many objects that we W
missed on the way up, and to describe which woulii
require more learning than I am possessed of, we
refreshed ourselves with a cup of tea at the outer gate,
and proceeded to visit the tomb of lyemitsu.

This is somewhat different in style : though the
general arrangement is very similar to that already
described, the art displayed is of a decidedly inferior
and debased character. Each of the three courts has its
gateway and steps, the passage being guarded by foiiT
figures of terrible appearance, and crudely coloured*
supposed to represent the gods of all sorts and con-
ditions hurtful to man, and prepared to hurl destruction
on the sacrilegious intruder. The actual tomb is very
like that of ly^yasu, but is situated at the side instead
of the back of the upper temple.

We were shown some most gorgeous articles 01
furniture, ceremonial raiment, and ornamentation, pre-
sented by various dignitaries in former times ; but loi^
before I emerged from tlie last gate on my return 1 waa
wearied with the strain of the last two hours and a hal^
and glad was I to take a quiet stroll by the rushiiq
river under the gloom of the trees, "my faithful pijx: t<
bear me company." As the sun disappeared behind th
lofty summit of the Chiusenji hills I strolled home to ai

aOUDAY TRIP: NIKKO. THE NAKA-SEN-DO, AND ISE. 149

iriy dinner, and almost before the darkness had closed
I was asleep.

On the 13th, I rose at five, and had the coldest

h I remember; and after breakfast superintended the

nngement of my baggage on the backs of four coolies,

' we were now going into the hills, and had to trust

r legs for the next day or two. After some delay,

J by the difficulty of dividing into four equal loads

amount of baggage that consisted of one large port-

Inteau and several small cases and bundles, the lot

It at last lifted, and we set out for Chiusenji, distant

!y three ri, or less than seven miles and a half, but

[h a climb of about two thousand five hundred feet to

ihh up with. The first part of the road was pretty

walking, a stiff hill here and there as we followed

I the valley, the road winding over spurs that run down
m the hills on either side, thrusting the stream away
il back with their stony bluffs. About half way we
►crged from the main road leading to the Ashiwo pass,
d ascending a steep hill, came down on the other side
'the river again, here a small torrent rushing down a
Ide stony bed. In a nook we found a little hamlet

I Umagayeshi (there is a place with a similar or
entical name at the foot of nearly every celebrated hill
the country?, and here refreshed ourselves, for the
Sming was extremely warm, and in the valleys there

II no wind. From this place commenced the climb,
E road leading for a mile up the steep bed of the
Tent, crossing and recrossing the water by rude log
idges. Presently we came to a fork of the stream,
d here the path struck up the intervening bluff by a

ISO EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAX.

steep zigzag amongst the rocks, made into steps by
pegging rough branches across the footway. The pack-
horse path was very circuitous, winding about right and
left as the ground offered a chance of an easier incline,
for the steps were very steep, I now found myself
dreadfully out of form for all hill work, after my sojourn
in the plains of Osaka^ and had to stop frequently for
breath : it took me an hour and a quarter to do the two
miles from Umagayeshi to the top of the steps.

About one-third of the way up we had a good view
into the right hand gorge, where there were two water-
falls in sight, not of any great dimensions ; they desceod
the steep face of one of the dykes that separate the uppei,
slopes of Nan-tai-san, the southern of the two gratj
mountains of the Chiusenji range, from the lower hills,
rising into bold cliffs to the eastward. To the left of the
path is a much larger waterfall, in a gorge of difficult
access, where I did not adventure myself, as I was told
that at this time there was scarcely any flow from the
lake that feeds it.

At last we reached the summit of the path, and a few i
minutes' walking brought us to the lake, a sheet of water i
about six miles long and two broad, four thousand ei^t
hundred feet above the sea level, surrounded to the west
and north by beautifully wooded hills. South is the
gorge we had come up, and east rises the big mountain
Nan-tai-san. About half a mile from the outlet of the
lake is the temple and village of Chiusenji, a place quite
deserted in winter. The village consists of several rows
of guest-houses, and in the midst a range of six small
tea-houses, in one of which, that boasted an upstaiis

SOUDAY TRIP: mKKO, THE HAKA-SEN-BO, AND ISE. 15I

m, I took up my quarters, and lost no time in calling

'»r tiffin. The air was deliciously cool up here, though

il could see no snow on any of the hills within view.

After tiffin and a short rest, I went out, thinking if

could find a path I would go up the big hill ; but I

none, and wandered along the side of the lake till I

:Came to a tumbling waterfall, where a small stream was

'making a tremendous show and bustle down a rocky

descent of about a hundred feet in steps and shoots, from

the plain above into the lake. I went a little way into the

plain, which I found uninteresting, covered with stunted

wood and cut up by small wooded gullies here and there.

Tore me was the northern mountain Shirancsan, white

wilh snow on the summit ; but I returned from here, and

overtook two native hunters. They told me that there

n-e lots of deer on the hills, and a few wild boar — they

dgot nothing that day so far, but were marching along

th matches burning ; and after leaving them I heard

■Q shots, and as my boy afterwards served me up what

; declared was a wild duck, bought from these same

inters, I rejoiced, though wild duck in June had not

'iously been a thing within my experience.

At the village 1 found that when on the plain whence

had turned back, I was half-way to Yumoto, a place

uncd for its hot springs and its bathing establishments,

fa primitive sort, and I was strongly urged to go there ;

W reflected that I had not too much time for all my

■ojected wanderings, and that I had better stick to my

mard route, at any rate till I had "broken- the back"

the journey overland to Kiyoto. So I only inquired

about the way up the hill, and was told that the path

IS2

EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN.

led up from the temple, by a gate that was only opened
to males attended by a fifty-cent guide. So I sent to
secure a guide, not knowing that he had already secured
me as a fifty-cent visitor ; and solaced myself with a
warm bath in the open air, the tub being placed on the |
shore of the lake ; and after having thus exhibited myself |
to theinhabitantsof the village, who all came down about
that time to pick up sticks or draw water, I dried and
clothed myself, retired to dinner, and went to sleep early. ■
Rose at 5.30, on the 14th, breakfasted — of course I
should naturally, — -and joined the guide, who had also
in tow a young Japanese farmer, at the temple, I paidi
and he unlocked the gate without asking the youth to
subscribe, and we began the ascent about half-past six.,
For about fifteen hundred feet of ascent the path was up
steps, like those of the day before, and very trying to my
poor bellows ; so that, annoyed at having my exhaus-
tion seen by the other two, I sent them on before, as I
found that my easiest pace, when I was going at all, ws
faster than theirs, I had to rest every hundred yards or
so all the way up to the first resting-shed, where I found
the guide waiting, but sent him on again. The next
thousand feet was even more severe, the path being
amongst rocks and tree-roots, and frequently obstructed
by fallen trees and interlaced branches. However, ay
wind improved as I went on and rejoined the others at
the top of the steepest pitch on the hill. Thence to the
summit we went forward together, over a path notsoj
steep as before, but with scorire under foot, very loose afiil|
shifting. We had long risen above the big trees, on^
stunted underwood, wild cherry, and rhododendron covcf

^UDAYTRW: mKKO.THENAKA-SElf-DO,ANDtSE. l%%

\ the slopes when not washed clean by rain or melting
iw. A little before ten, I reached the shrine and
ting-shed at the summit, where we rested a few
lutes, and I tried to eat some sandwiches I had
ought up ; but having no water I could not swallow
m.so amused myself by looking at the inscriptions by
vious visitors, and found I was 817S feet above the
I only 3375 from the lake, which latter ascent had
en me just as long as one man had registered from
Ichitshi ; so I felt humiliated — nay, resentful.
Around the summit there are several points from
ifch on favourable days good views may be had ; but

day was very cloudy, and it was only through an

sional rent in the mists below that I could get a
mpse of the low ground. On the side over against
iranesan is a lofty rock, where lie some rusty sword-
ides, offerings of those who had used them in fight ;
ich would, I should have thought, have furnished a
)d reason for keeping them.

We did not stay long at the top ; but commenced
ily the tortures of the descent — for of all the tortures

devised for English knees, that of walking down a
panese step-path is perhaps the worst. For the last
lusand feet of the descent I expected to fall headlong
every step, being driven sometimes to make wild
hes off the path when I could get a clear line for
Be big tree to pull up against ; and when at last I
lod in the road before the temple, having successfully
[otiated the stone steps in front of it, I was fairly
nmped out," and leant for a space upon my pilgrim's

considering whether I should try or not to get to

the tea-house without assistance. As the road was i
dead level I concluded to try, and wound myself up to
a sort of " post-boy's gallop " till I turned in and sat
down for the boy to pull my boots off. Then getting a
gulp of brandy and water, the effect of which stimulint
carried me through a rub down and change of clothing,
I tackled my sandwiches and rolled up in a blanket till
dinner-time, when 1 extracted a pint bottle of cham-
pagne — one of three in store for emei^encies^from my
box of stores, and polished off a couple of good moun-
tain trout, brought from the river below Umagayeshi,
for there are no fish in the lake. I had a touch of
shivers later on, and took a dose of quinine.

On the 15th, I started away early for the west; but
it was a bad start I made, for the fever that threatened
last night had hold of rac, and I was too sick to eat any
breakfast ; so took a good dose of chlorodyne. The
baggage was carried by coolies as before, and wc went
back to the outlet of the lake ; here crossing the stream,
the path struck up the face of a wooded hill. I was as
weak as a baby, and had to stop frequently, and twice
sat down for ten minutes, reviving myself with brandy
and the dew-drops off the leaves, so that it was more
than an hour and a half before 1 reached the brow, little
more than a thousand feet above the lake. Here I
came upon a stream of clear water running off a long
slack in the top of the hill, and promptly went down on
my knees astride of it and drank greedily. I had
gradually conquered the faintness as I came up the hill,
and was so refreshed by the pure water that I went on
easily from this, down a gently declining path which led

BOUDAY TRIP: NIKKO, THE NAKA-SEN-DO, AND ISB. IJS

out suddenly upon the top of some rocks, where I found
I tte coolies resting. From here was presented a mag-
nificent view over the Nikko valley and hills, and the
slopes of Nan-tai-san. After this the path descended
npidly, through what I at once recognized as a " tulgy "
wood, with little breaks at intervals, on the ridges of the
spurs, until I came out into the main road at the summit
of the pass, betiveen Nikko and Ashiwo, the latter being
in the direction I was bound for.

Down into the depths of a wooded gorge the road
[Junged, and we with it, by many a zigzag, crossing
Jtreamlets from the surrounding hills, the junction of
»'hich formed the head waters of the Watarase river,
njnning into the Tone that I had crossed at Kurihashi
on my first day. The path soon became less steep, and
I found myself stepping out gallantly, passing wooded
Wd broken slopes, with here and there a Httlc grassy
ipot tempting the traveller to rest ; but I left my coolies
&r behind, marching on fairly possessed by the lovely
tanery of tlie winding gorge and ever-growing river.
Presently appeared little patches of cultivation, with
li«e and there a hamlet where the rows of stripped
oulberry trees evidenced the culture of silkworms.
About one o'clock we reached Ashiwo, a small post-
viliage, where the baggage was shifted on to a pack-
norse, while I got some tiffin, not before I wanted it ;
and after a rest started on again through scenery still
"lore beautiful than that already passed through. The
lateral valleys were bolder and more varied, and the
"^er, now swollen to the dimensions of a fine salmon
stream, was grand with its deep clear pools and wild

IS6 EIGHT YEARS IN J A PAX.

rushes amongst the giant boulders. The road, vet/
rough in places, wound up and down the side of the
gorge, over precipices and into gullies; but the scenefy
carried me along regardless of time or distance. I
walked myself quite sound in the course of the after-
noon, and arrived at Sawa-iri about half-past Jive.
having done about seventeen miles from the top of the
pass, a descent of nearly four thousand feet. I had done
enough for honour, so looked about for quarters, found
a good room in a silk-house, a bath, an appetite for the
Liebig's soup, poached eggs, and French beans, aiid
sound sleep at nine o'clock.

The 1 6th, at half-past six, on the road again, baggage
on one horse, boy on another, as his feet were sore with
walking, myself striding on in front. The goi^e con-
tinued with the same features for about five miles, when
it suddenly widened into a good cultivated valley with a
large village in the middle ; but a short distance further
the hills close in again by the river, which we crossed in
order to ascend the southern hill, and cut ofl" a long bend
and a very rough road under limestone cliffs. From the
ridge we had a good view around three sides, before
diving into a narrow valley of a rather commonplace
character, wooded hills on either side, farmers' houses,
with their gardens and mulberry groves, perched on the
slopes, and in the bottom the young rice now being
planted out, here and there an odd primitive water-
wheel beside the stream, working a hulling mill. Pre-
sently the valley opens to a plain, and traversing this
for about a mile, I came upon the river again betwMB'
cliffs of shale, with an inclined path to the ferry.

BOLIDAY TRIP; NIKKQ, THE NAKA-SEN-DO, ASD ISE. 1 57

Another quarter of an hour brought us to Omama, a

lige and thriving village, where, after some inquiry, we

iuEd a tea-house, at which it was possible to get some-

ing beyond rice and pickles. The people confessed to

iving some eels in a box in the river, and while these

:e being sent for, we engaged jinrikishas for Mayeba-

)i; and I got a salt bath for my blistered feet, apparently

new idea to the tea-house people, who lost themselves

exclamations as I put two good handfuls of coarse

into the tub, and appeared to like it. The eels,

in native fashion, or rather broiled, were excellent ;

ijd after the baggage was loaded up, which involved a

good deal of disputing, drawing lots, and journeys to the

far end of the village for a bit of string and so on, we

got away about two o'clock, crossing a beautiful rolling

country that reminded me of some parts of Kent. The

road ran through hollow lanes and across stretches of

golden winter-corn, past smiling homesteads gay with

flowers, and by copses fringing the winding streamlets.

lie only things that would be strange in Kent were

fcosional runs of rice-fields, and a few patches of cotton

B flower. To the north-west the lofty Mikuni range

showed dimly through thunder-clouds that lifted once to

five me a glimpse of a towering and fantastic peak. At

Mayebashi, a large town and the centre of the great

district of Joshiu, we changed vehicles for Takasaki,

ler seven or eight miles ; and while the baggage was

shifted I caught sight of a red triangle in a shop,

|S was speedily outside the contents of a bottle of

ia&, with a fervent blessing upon the name of that

Ind of humanity.

EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN.

Leaving Mayebashi, we passed the site of the old
castle, the last remains of which were being cleared away,
only a part of the retaining walls of the old gateway yet
remaining. Close to this is the Tonegawa, the great
river of the plain, here rushing along a stony bed at
the bottom of a cutting some thirty feet deep through
boulder clay, The stream is very rapid, a long bridge
of boats, moored with bamboo cables, having a decided
downstream curve. We reached Takasaki at half-pist
seven, and found lodgings in an indifferent inn, where
I detected the people moving a sick woman, evidently
in a high state of fever, out of the best room to make
a place for me ; but for obvious reasons I contented
myself with a more modest apartment, and was soon at
rest, afler a long and tiring day.

Rain was falling smartly as I arose and breakfasted
on the 17th; so I delayed my start till half-past nine;
going to the post office for letters, but finding none-
At the coach office, however, I received a parcel of coffet
my boy had left behind in Tokiyo and written for. At
a " to-butsu-ya, " or general shop for foreign articles, I
captured half a dozen bottles of beer, for about eight
shillings ; and the rain clearing off. started away along
the Naka-sen-do (road of the central mountains), that I
intended to follow till I should regainthe farthest point
I had reached working eastwards from Kiyoto in 1875.
Takasaki, my new starting-point, is about as far distant
from Tokiyo in a north -westerly direction as Utsunomiya
is to the north ; so that after my first day's journey on
the nth, I had been working round part of a circle with
Tokiyo for the centre.

\^L/DAyrX/J*: mXATO. THENAKA-SEN-DO,AlfDISE. 159

The first part of the Naka-sen-36 I did not find

ikeresting ; the road rose gradually up a long valley

|»ith iow hills on either side. To the left, however, some

five miles away, are lofty and precipitous hills, and

"l diverged from the main road to visit Miogi-san, where

there is a celebrated temple. Crossing the ravine in

which the river now ran by a steep up and down path

that scarcely permitted the passing of jinrikishas, we

went by a road winding through villages and cornfields

into a dark wood lying at the foot of the hills, and soon

reached a steep ascent, at the upper end of which was

a large torii. Here we left the vehicles and found a

jiittle way beyond the top of the incline a small village,

irtunatcly possessing a good tea-house, where, as the

1 now descending again smartly, I utilized an

interval for tiffin. The verandah commanded a good

■ *iew over Takasaki and the plain whenever the showers
B'TOased for a while, and on a fine day the place must be
I charming. The temple is close by, up a steep flight
■■«f steps; but I noticed nothing remarkable about the
i building except the extreme grotcsqueness of the

■ Wonsters that are carved on the woodwork. The
^uation is. however, most beautiful, at the foot of

wooded slope, out of which rises a perpendicular
Wirier of rock several hundred feet high, broken up into
fantastic forms like the ruins of some medieval castle.
The rain hung about the crags, hiding and revealing
them at intervals, the curious fragmentary clouds
the effect of the landscapes one finds on
*Kake-mono, " or hanging pictures, into mind. 1 had
Hways supposed the designs on these to depend rather

l6o EIGIIT YEARS IX JAPAN.

upon the conventional shape of the piece of silk that
receives the painting, and the imagination of the artist.
than upon any intended resemblance to nature ; but this
idea, which had been partly dispelled at Nikko, was
further modified at Miogi. Here were the overhanging
cliffs and floating clouds, and I could quite believe that
the waterfalls, curiously crooked houses, and boats in
unexpected situations, might be there also. No doubt
the Japanese look upon these pictures as true present-
ments of their most romantic scenery.

As the rain continued to fall. I made my way back
to the Naka-sen-do, and went on to Sakamoto, a place
situated, as the name implies, at the commencement of
the steep road, the Usui pass, leading into the tableland
of Shinano. As the afternoon was far advanced I resKd
here the night at a rather dingy inn, for the princip*!
tea-house was taken up by a hundred Satsuma samursi,
so I was told, as also that there had been over five
hundred in Takasaki the previous night. I met
numbers more, stalwart and determined -looking men.
on the road ; they were said to be bound for Tokiyo for
some purpose not entirely unsuspected of disloyalty,
and with the eyes of all tlie authorities upon them-
They were journeying, so far as I could see, in the most
peaceable fashion, and were probably persons on leavC
from scattered appointments or occupations, bound for
their homes in the south to see what could be saved
from the wreck of the rebellion, now hopelessly
stranded.

On the i8th, I rose early after a good night's rest;
but owing to the non-arrival of the pack-horse that waa

SOUDAY TRIP: IflKKO, THE KAKA-SEff-DO, A.VD ISE. l6r

beany my belongings over the pass, it was past seven
ikfore we started. The village looked very pretty
n the early morning, the stream running in a built
etannei down the middle of the street, having small
trees and flowering shrubs planted along both sides.
The place was busily astir, the men loading up the
pack-horses, while children rushed about among the bales,
whooping after the young swallows that were taking
tiieir first flying lessons or sitting squeaking on the
ground with an eye cocked up at the nest as if to say,
"How the double-breasted dickens shall I ever get up
fcre again ? "

I went ahead up the pass on foot, the boy following.
The road in use was a new one, laid out on a better
linciple than the old one, that went zigzagging up the
Jpfecipitous face of a prominent spur. I found the new
We quite steep enough though, and after walking for
early an hour pulled up for a spell and a drink of
Ipring water from a cleft in the rocks ; but soon resumed
Bid reached the summit in five minutes over the two
hours from Sakamoto, five and a half miles and about
e thousand feet of rise. At the summit the boy
t up to a temple to pay his devotions and get
t ticket to show he had done so, while I looked round
4out for such views as are obtainable from this elevated
(pot; but the ground is too broken for any compre-
teisive panorama. I caught a glimpse of Asama-yama
firough the clouds, apparently an enormous height,
I that I felt like the young swallows, being bound
> get up there somehow.
Diving down from the ridge a few hundred feet, wc

162 EIGHT YEARS IN fAPAN.

came to a village, Karuisawa, and took vehidd
Kutsukake, a place from which I had been
mended to make the ascent of the hill ; but I 1
make out nothing satisfactory here, and went on to
Oiwake, a village at a fork of the road, from which the
ascent is most commonly made, and put up at a tea-
house having an inscription in English over the door
" Hotel for foreigners," where I was given a good room,
and served with a fair tiffin, but found that in soint
respects the place was objectionable.

I then arranged for the morrow to go by horse as Etf
up the mountain as possible ; and thence walking op to
the summit. The ascent and return could be made, the
guide said, in about seven hours ; but I secretly resolved '■
to take it easy. Then I took in my hand our former
Chiefs railway map and report, and sallied out to look;
for the route of the future grand trunk railway, describe*
apparently as passing within a couple of miles of Oiwakt;
Returning along the Naka-sen-do for about a mile, 1 found'
a new branch road leading apparently in the 1
direction, and followed it down to a village called Yuf—
giving its name to the Yui-gawa, one of the streams tl
unite to form the river Chikuma, known, under the IBOI^
general name of the Shinano-gawa, for its length
course, extent of watershed, and heavy floods : it is tfa
largest river of Japan, and enters the sea at Niigal
on the west coast Down the valley of the Yui-gaWlS
I trudged, noting a long basaltic dyke in the hills to
the southward, which from its direction I took to be &ft
continuation of the Miogi cliiTs ; it runs at right anglesi
to the chain of mountains crossed by the Usui pass.

SOUDA Y TRIP: NIKKO, THE NAKA-SEN-DO, AND SSE. 163

As I went on, the gorge of the Yui-gawa became
eep and tortuous, with lofty cliffs and deep tributary
ivines ; and after following the main stream for about
I hour I lost my bearings altogether. A farmer, how-
w, put me in the right road ; but I suppose I lost
again, as, after another hour's walking, I came across
e same man, who then told me that my best way
mild be to return by the road I had come rather
in go on down the gorge. Being tired I took
advice and regained Oiwake, in heavy rain, after
ire than five hours of rough walking, and much
xked up.

After a bath in the verandah, the preparation of
ich was superintended by atl the ladies of the house-
lld, a very mixed lot, who appeared annoyed at being
ned out before I did "tumbies," I resolved to lie off
3 day and recruit my strength and heal my re-opened
tters before ascending the mountain. In the evening
! landlord and his son came in for a little conversation
wt things in general. Amongst other matters they
nted to know why the English didn't help the Turks
I time, as they did twenty years ago. I thought this
ttty good, but my command of the language, though
icient for common purposes, did not go to the length
a political discussion, so I shirked the subject, and
reciated the delicacy with which they refrained from
sing it ; for I wasn't sure but what there was some
(bug at the bottom of our undoubted caution, and
all Englishmen in the East, I regarded humbug as
very — well, well.

rose early on the igth, and made out a good

1 64 EIGHT YEARS IN yAJ^AJ/.

four hours with a new Japanese book I had bought in
T5kiy5, — ^but that was about all I did make out of it
After tiffin I took a little walk round about, and the
weather clearing I obtained a good view of the mountain,
which looked less formidable when the whole could be
seen ; and I made a sketch to be corrected by the next
day's nearer observation. I filled up the rest of the day
by writing up my diary, and the evening by cursii^ a
^yakamashi/' or noise of music and dancing, issuing
from the apartments of some other guests, and keeping
me awake till eleven o'clock.

On the 20th, I made a good breakfast, and left the
inn at a quarter-past six, mounted on a pack-horse —
surely the most uneasy seat ever devised. My boy, who
had asked leave to go up, walked on with the guide, and
three young Japanese also joined the party, cutting
across the open to avoid paying toll to the priests who
have a little shrine and praying-house where the path
leaves the main road east of Oiwake. There was also
a coolie with a basket of prog, so that after leaving the
horse and its man we went up six strong.

First came a painful progress for about three miles
across the lava slopes, where a rough path had been
marked out by two parallel rows of loose lumps of lava
and scoriae. This slope was well overgrown with g^ass
and creepers, and here and there were small fir woods.
Coming to a ravine with a stream of yellow water
running down it, we turned along the edge of this till
we came upon a small waterfall, with a cave beside it,
in which we left the horse, and out of which we received
stout staves to help our climbing. Then we crossed the

HOLIDA y TRIP: NIKKO, THE NASA-SEN-DO, AND ISE. 16$

ra\Hnc and followed the guide up a winding path with
a green hill on the left.

Presently we came to some ponds, evidently the
source of the yellow stream ; the water was warm and
smelt strongly of sulphur. Beyond this the vegetation
became very scanty and the ascent steeper. In an hour
after leaving the horse we had risen sixteen hundred feet,
or nearly three thousand above the village, and now
began the heavy work. We were at the foot of a steep
slope of ashes, and right above us were some rocks,
part of the broken Up of a former crater. One huge
' rock lying apart from the others was apparently just
poised on the brow of the slope, and we made straight
for this. The first part of the incline was very rough,
being composed of good-sized lumps of scoriae rolled
down from above, and lying unsteadily on the ashes.
These past, we came to a steeper pitch, the loose ashes
of which were very unstable. Some of the lighter of the
party got along pretty well, but I fell behind sadly,
every step dwindhng down to a few inches only of
result, and frequently I slipped back downiiiU with
a run. Those above me also disturbed the ashes as
they went up, and I had to stand steady and field some
of the lumps like cricket balls, getting my hands sadly
scored. This was a weary business, with the sun full on
Our backs, and a fresh wind blowing cinder dust across
the slope. Time after time the whole party had to rest,
to wash out our mouths with water, and let our throb-
ing pulses calm down a little, and try and make believe
that the rocks looked a little nearer.

Tor two hours we toiled up this slope, till we reached

l66 EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN.

a still steeper part above, which, however, was more
quickly ascended, for this was the solid structure of the
cone, and the hands could be used in climbing. At
last we reached the rocks and sat down in a little hollow,
where the ashes from the present crater had piled up
against the inside of tlie former lip. It was only a few
hundred feet from this point to the summit, so thatflfe
speedily found ourselves at the edge of the crater, having
taken a little over three hours in the climb since we left
the horse.

Though we had come up on the windward sid^ the
fumes of sulphur were so strong that a minute at a Uaw
was all we could stay near the edge. The cratet
appeared to be about half a mile across in the widcsti
part, the lower lip opposite to where we stood bcii^
several hundred feet lower. The sides are steep clife
of which we could get glimpses to an immense depth at
intervals, as the smoke eddied about, We walked round
the edge for some distance each way, getting views of
the regions below through holes in the shattered rocks
or piled-up fragments. Quantities of sulphur were strewn
about the edge, and from some small holes at consider-
able distances from the Hp vapour was issuing, so hot
that the hand could not be held within a foot of them.
The guide offered to take me the circuit of the crater,
but 1 had seen enough of the windward side to mak(
me decline a visit to leeward. So after satisfying a non
scientific curiosity by peeping into the crater, and notinj
the ledge-like formation of the interior precipices, due
I suppose, to alternate additions by ejected matter, ant
degradations by weather, we retired to a little shrine o

mUDA V TSIP: NIKICO, THE NAKA-SE!f-DO, AND ISB. l6;

flocks piled up behind a large boulder, and opened the
liffin basket. The beer I had worked so hard for went
hissing down my parched throat most refreshingly, and
prepared the way for the biscuits and Bologna sausage ;
and after a smoke and a talk we commenced the descent,
by the way we had come. There was just one drift of
iw left from the winter, lying under the rocks far away
u the crater, and almost hidden by blown dust and

The steep rocky brow was difficult and indeed
faigerous to descend, but the slope of loose ashes was
Bore easily managed — our guide went down it like an
Depress train, raising a cloud of dust that obscured him
fiom view, until he stopped and it cleared away to let
see bim quietly smoking a pipe at the bottom, where
tte rougher lumps began- I followed his example,
iitiiking out straight down the slope, almost as in
ing, keeping the body lightly balanced and being
Kady with each foot for the next stroke, as the weight
Wove the bearing foot deep into the ashes. When we
Bjoined the guide he led us cleverly down over the
Wugh ground, showing a practised eye for the best
foothold, and we regained the waterfall at a quarter to
Here most of the party went in for a sulphur and
•ron bath ; but I mounted the horse, and made the best
ufmy way back to the village, reaching the inn at three
dock exactly^by no means so tired as I expected,
*■"! feeling that I should soon recover my lost pedestrian
J>o*ers.

After I had replied to various queries as to what
■'thought of the volcano, I was introduced to a subscrip-

EIGHT YEARS m "JAPAN.

tion book, that I might contribute towards making
a better road to the top of the hilL My modest donation
swelled the total so far to about three pounds sterling,
so 1 dare say the road is not yet completed.

After a bath and early dinner, I arranged to go
forward the next day by the Komuro road, through
Matsumoto, thus avoiding the barren plateau traversed
by the Naka-scn-do for the next twenty miles, the Wad»
pass beyond, the worst on the Naka-sen-do, and the lake
and town of Suwa.

On the 2ist,weleft Oiwake early, and went gradually
down by a capital road from the slopes of Asamayann
into the valley of the Chikumagawa, crossing seveial
ravines cut by the hill streams out of the clayey and
stratified formation of the district. After passing a loi^
village called Komuro, we skirted the river itself, here
already a wide though shallow stream with a rapid fall
over a stony bed. The hills on the far side of the
river showed bold cliffs here and there.

By ten o'clock we reached Uyeda, a castle town trf
some size. Here the river curves round the south and
west of the town, running north through a narrow gap
in the hills, first receiving a considerable tributary from
the south. We crossed the river below the confiuence
by a bridge of boats, moored by a substantial wire cable,
a rather remarkable thing to see so far inland, and found
that the cultivated ground was protected from the
action of floods, not by earthen banks, as in general, but
by parallel lines of stone walls. From this point we
went slowly towards the western hills, skirting a lonff
spur extending towards the entrance of the gorge through

, mUDAyTFJP:NIKKO,TiIENAKA'SEN'DO,ANDISE. 1 69

bich the river flows. At Araku, about seven miles
Dm Uyeda, twenty-seven altogether from Oiwake, we
ismissed the jinrikishas, and took pack-horses, one for
K baggage and one for me, the boy undertaking to
all< ahead. The Hofukuj'i pass that lay ahead of us
la long one, some thirteen miles, so that, as it was two
'dock before we left Araku, I despaired of reaching
laisumoto that night. The pass turned out to be very
well as long. The first three miles were easy
ough, but then the steep ascent began, and on reaching
liat from below had looked like the ridge, the road

hrned to the right gradually and hill after hill appeared

before us, as we rose above the tops of the outliers,
tbout two-thifds of the way up we stopped at a little
a-heuse to rest the horses ; and here finding the boy
loking very leg-weary, I put him up, and walked over
le summit and down to the village of Hofukuji, about

five miles.

At the top of the pass, where I met a very cold wind
HDing across from the still snow-capped mountains
IT away to the west. I turned for a last look across the
iound traversed that day, towards Asam^, which stands
It prominently in the view from this point, the little
Bud of smoke being distinctly visible, at the_ distance
r, say, twenty-five miles direct.
From here the road dipped into a narrow well-wooded

pige with a rapid fall. About two hundred men were
\ I passed along remaking the road, which pro-
] to be a good one with even inclines, side drainage,
\ regular formation. As the progress of a pack-horse
ii-n hill is, if possible, slower than on an ascent.

170

EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAK

I reached tJie village Tar in advance of boy and ba^agc,
and walked through the whole length of it, looking for
a good inn ; but seeing that the only eligible houses were
at the upper end of the village, by which I had entered,
I turned back, and found all the rank, fashion, and
beauty of the place turned out, under the guardianship
of a policeman, to look at the stranger, for this being
off the main road usually traversed by foreigners, I
dare say they were not seen every year in HofukujL
At the top of the village I met the boy walking In,
having renounced his fiery steed after getting up to
the top ; and as he had a letter to the head man, we
were soon comfortably lodged, The baggage did not
arrive till half-past seven; we had thus done forty miles,
including the pass, in thirteen hours about — a fair day'*
work, on the whole, though we were still ten miles short
of Matsumoto, where I had hoped to sleep. It was half-
past eight before I had dinner on the table {borrowed,
the table that is, and a wooden chair, from the village
school), and though there was a clear fifteen hours
between breakfast and dinner, I found my Japanese
tiffin at Araku quite sufficient, but I confess to being
hungry before I got it. On the other hand, I had done
very little walking.

I did not get away till half-past seven on the 22ndt
owing to more than usual delay with the pack-horse
and therefore found the walk to Matsumoto rather hot.
We crossed a small pass called Kanawari-zaka, ovd
a ridge that separates the Hofukuji valley from tb«
plain to the west. On gaining the summit a very fiat
view was obtained over the whole watershed of thd

UDAY TRIP: NIKKO, THE NAKA-SEN-DO, AND ISE. I/I

1-kawa, a tributary that joins the Chikuma river

bout twenty miles below where I had crossed it at

^a the day before. I could now see On-take-san,

e big mountain I used to see in the distance in 1875,

> that I felt like getting home again already, though

e roughest part of the road was before me.

Matsumoto, which looks very pretty from the hill-

, wilh its temples and groves and old castle tower

ning above the trees, proved as mean and dilapidated

s all the rest of these relics of feudal power when we

Entered it Here I captured the only four bottles of

Mr the town contained before resuming my journey.

Hence to Semba, or Seba, where I rejoined the Naka-

n-do, is about eleven miles over a poor country, which

just on this particular day happened to be crossed by

a bad wind with heat and dust, so that the ride was

ver>- disagreeable. Semba is at the mouth of a gorge,

out of which flows the main stream of the Sai-kawa,

ind the Naka-sen-do follows up this gorge for several

niiles. I therefore took fresh jinrikishas from this place

—which is remarkable for possessing a very glorified

»dioo!-house, three stories high, with carved panelling

■• the verandah — to Niegawa, a long village, said to

Rpossess good inns, as indeed do most of those on the

n road ; and it was also a good place to get forward

f Sod], so report said. I put up at a " waki-honjin," or

l^lcmalive resting-place for daimiyos of olden time,

•case the chief honjin should happen to be occupied ;

1 had a good room looking into a pretty garden,

1 1 had time to appreciate, as I got in eariy.
I found it was not easy to get forward except by

EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN.

walking or pack-horse ; but after dinner I brought to
a successful end a negotiation with eight men, who
agreed to find four jinrikishas, and take me through
the Kiso-kaido (that part of the Naka-sen-do which
traverses the upper valley of the Kiso river, my old
friend) as far as Oi, say sixty-four miles, in two day^
engaging to reach Oi in time for me to proceed another
stage or two on the second day. The road was said
to be good, with only two hill passes on it ; as will be
seen, it turned out that these were the best parts of it
However, the arrangement was made ; and I soon slept,
as all good people should sleep, without a dream or
a turn till dawn.

On the 23rd, started at a quarter to seven, and
found the road good to begin with, only a broken
bridge interfering with the run to Narai, a village at the
foot of the Torii pass. Here the gorge turns eastward,
and the road turning up the hill to the right, crosses
the backbone range of japan, here a narrow ridge
between the upper gorge of the Sai-kawa, flowing west
before turning to the north-east, and that of the Kiso-
gawa flowing east before turning south-west, the
streams being parallel^ though running reverse ways,
and only about two miles apart. The pass takes its
name from the gateway (a conspicuous object from the
valley below) of a burial-ground and shrine close to the
top of the hill.

From Narai, the baggage — of which I had, in fact,
too much all along — was distributed among the four
jinrikishas, and I and the boy walked over the hill, a
short and not particularly steep one. From the rid^

I mUDAYTRlP: NIKKO, THE NAKA-SEN-DO,AND !SE, 173

thamiing view southward is obtained ; the Kiso
ralley is here rather wider then it becomes lower down,
ind the rich soil is laid out in arable fields. On either
liide of the valley rise wooded hills, above which are
ED snow-tipped peaks of great height in all directions.
'A vast tract of mountainous country contributes its
waters to the Kiso, which, however, at the foot of the
pass, where lies the little village of Yagohara, is a mere
trout stream; very different to the lower river, perhaps
at this very time rolling down in heavy flood from the
nielting of the snows not far from where I stood.

After walking into Yagohara. and giving the men
a little rest there, we started afresh on wheels. Now,
one would naturally suppose that going down-stream
a tolerably easy road would be met with ; but the Kiso-
liido has apparently been laid out on the principle
ttiat it is good for man and beast to go up-hill as far
as possible, and then down-hill as steep as possible.
Accordingly the road climbs bluflf afler bluff until a
precipice is met with, that offers a chance of a break-
neck road down to the bed of the stream ; which being
arranged the climb begins again. At first this was not
objectionable, as it afforded a variety of views
)re or less pretty, with the now foaming river as a
lire to each and all of them, and I really enjoyed
first hour or two, though I fancy the coolies didn't.
Here I saw for the first time in Japan brood mares
their foals together on the hill-sides. It appears
tliat this valley, for more than a hundred miles in length,
« a regular breeding district for horses ; and in every
rillage I saw large-eyed shambling foals playing about

bout J

EIGHT YEARS m JAPAl^.

the farmers' doors, and starting into the kitchens as ou
jinrikishas rattled past. Before mid-day, however, ,
was too tired to enjoy the scenery, or take note of nen
things, for in addition to the up and down work, open
drains to carry the hill rivulets cross the road every fifty
yards or so, and the plunging into and out of them soon
became not only monotonous but disagreeable in the,
extreme, besides shaking the iinch-pins out at intervals,
so that twice I came to the ground suddenly.

At Fukushima, — -a very up and down village, [lie
inhabitants of which seem to make the high road i
general store for anything inconveniently large to put
inside the houses, so that progression through the street
is like mild burglary, — I had tiffin and a rest; but in
starting again I ceased to pay the slightest attention
to anything but the surface of the road, which absorbed
all my thoughts. These became of a more and more
improper character vi'ith each jolt, bump, and crash,
as I found hips, elbows, knees, and back getting first
sore, and then numbed and stiff; so that the frequent
walks up-hill, that at first had been a relief to mysdi
as well as to the men, became a penance. At sit
o'clock I could not stand it, or rather sit, any longffi
so I left the jinriskisha and walked doggedly intC
Nojiri at a quarter-past seven, turning into the fiisl
respectable inn I could find, having been twelve an^
a half hours doing thirty-seven miles. j

I went to bed thoroughly exhausted and baq
tempered ; but on the morrow, the 24th, rose and started
refreshed in body and in mind resigned, at half-past sii
While fresh I again found the scenery admirabit

^BOl/DAyTX/J': NIKKO, THE NAKA-SEN-DO, AND !SE. l/S

icially at the junctions of the side gorges, which
Itemed to lead down streams of clear rushing water
torn the very heavens. I resolved to keep fresh as long
I could, and therefore walked the greater part of the
ly in spite of the heat. We rested a few minutes
Tsomago, near the commencement of the Magome
ss, where the road leaves the Kiso, as the gorge at
his point and for some forty miles below is too rough
En for such a road as we had been travelling to be
ide through it The pass proved a long one, but, like
Bothers, has had more attention paid to the preserva-
n of the road than at easier places, where the farmers
em to do as they like regardless of passers-by, making
I sorts of obstructions without any control apparently.
t the foot of the pass there is a choice of roads, and
with the baggage following me, took the wider one,
iuch was improved upon the other, that the boy
llowed, he having stopped behind for some reason,
td not thinking to look for wheel-marks. Supposing
1 to be before him all the way, he stumped so vigorously
ji the hi!l that I found him at the top in a state of
illapse when I arrived there. As soon as the baggage
ime in sight we started down the hill into the village
f Magome, where the men demanded a long rest, the
Bmb over the pass having punished them considerably.
From this place onward we passed over the worst
Dad in the whole world — I say it advisedly — and
mgh fatigued with my morning's walk, I could not
oncile it to my conscience to sit behind those wretched
plies, over the ups and downs of the succession of
ss ravines that we encountered ; so I walked on as

EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN.

long as I could keep it up, in the blazing heat of a Ji
afteraoon. When at last we reached Xalcatsugai
which is the end of the very bad road, I indulged myself
with a small portion of what 1 had paid for, but the
exhaustion of the coolies was painful to witness. I
believe they would have broken down altogether if an
itinerant tea-seilcr had not come along the road. Each
man swallowed down seven or eight good-siEed cups of
tea, with sugar, ginger, and nutmeg stirred up in it ; this
seemed to put a little life into them, and they struggled
into Oi at a quarter to five. They fulfilled their agr
ment, so far as reaching the place was concerned,
there was time for me to make another stage or two if
the means of getting forward had been handy ; but upM
inquiry it turned out that it would be a case of " Shanks
his marc " again ; so I concluded to stop at once, and
have a comfortable bath and a good dinner, and devote
myself to getting over my fatigue before the morning,

At the principal tea-house I found some very good
detached rooms ; but there being no private bath-rooffl
in connection with them I had a tub in the garden, and
very refreshing it was. A bottle of Bass also came io
very well, about this period, and my boy having
before him, went in for serious cooking with soori
success.

The coolies, who had huddled together in a state <J
utter collapse on arrival, scarcely speaking but fairij
crying with exhaustion, recovered sufficiently in
course of the evening to come for the balance of thd
money ; for which they had really worked so hard
I felt justified in giving them a tip, "sakat^"

HOLIDAY TRIP: NIKKO, THE NAKA-SEN-DQ, AND ISE. Xyj

Japanese call it (equivalent to " pourboire"), which sent
them away rejoicing, and they were off before dawn next
morning on the return journey.

On inquiry I made up my mind to leave the Naka-

sen-do here, instead of going the remaining thirty miles

to Ota, where I should re-enter my old ground. It was a

shorter route across the hills to Nagoya, which I hoped

to make in one day, it being only twenty-three miles on

)t, and thereafter fifteen in jinrikisha, so I calculated

evening.

On the 25th, up and off at a quarter-past six, self

id boy on foot, the baggage on a pack-horse, specially

Jectcd on account of his being on the return road,

that he might be expected to step out for home.

lie early morning was too fine; the sun on our backs

If hotter than was pleasant, so that I was not sorry

rhen clouds came over. Wc made good time to

imado, having now diverged from the Naka-sen-do and

to the Ise-michi, a pilgrim's road leading over a

W watershed and down an almost continuous line of

tiages in a shallow valley. At Kamado, where we

lissed the pack-horse and engaged porters, rain

to fall, but we went on ; the heat was most

iive and the road uninteresting. Plodding along

igh one of the dripping villages, with my umbrella

against the rain, I missed a corner and found myself

of the road ; but instead of returning I made a

ie round, losing a mile or two, but eventually reaching

kyama, my point for tiffin. Looking at my watch I

surprised to find it past mid-day considerably;

the discovery was soon made that the "ri" by

178 EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN.

which I had been reckoning, usually only thirty-sij
" cho " of a hundred and twenty yards each, were hen:
fifty "cho" long, so that I was in for nearly half as
much walking again as I had expected. The rain set fa
heavily, and without any sign of coming change forthe:
better. So warned by a slight chill and sickness, fore- ,
runners of fever, I resolved to struggle out of it at any
rate, though I gave up Nagoya then and there. It was
dreary work, struggling over the hills, three successive
ridges of which had to be crossed ; the roads were UIk
rivers, and progress painfully slow.

We crossed two good-sized streams, the upper wat«s
of the Toki river that flows down by Nagoya into the
bay of OwarL At four o'clock the rain suddenly cleared
off, and a fierce sun shone out as we struggled through
the mud ; this was very exhausting work, and 1 rejoiced
when clouds came over again. The last ridge was
ascended by a long easy incline, on which I was
delighted to see the nnarks of wheels again ; the summit^
on the boundary between the provinces of Mioo anu
Owari, was reached at five o'clock, and another half
hour brought us to Uchilsu, where I dropped up(B
good quarters luckily, for 1 had walked over tlurt
miles, the greater part in heavy rain, and was qiJ
knocked up.

Fortunately there was a hot bath ready, and I ba
not been five minutes in the inn before I was soaki^
therein ; nor was I five minutes out of the bath, ere
was outside a pint of champagne. After this I smc^
peacefully for an hour of almost happiness, when dinD
appeared ; and thereafter a final cigar and a dose

I mUDAVTRlP: NIKKO, Ti/E NAKA-SEN-DO, AND /SE. 179

r Japanese "sak^" prepared me for the "futon," in which
I Hiydown, and was asleep in ten seconds.

After a long dreamless sleep I awoke on the 26th like
» moderate-sized man refreshed, and started away on
»heels down an easy descent for the first five miles,
ligliting from the opening of the valley the castle of
K^ya, its tall keep shining out fair in the morning
The jtnrikishas were very ricketty ones, and two
of them broke down beyond the power of straw-rope,
paper, and rice-paste to remedy their defects ; so that
Ihese usual Japanese applications in case of any ailment
k) man, beast or machine being found wanting, there
Vas nothing for it but to hire porters for the baggage,
md step out However, we reached the town, and the
'Hotel du Progris"— my old quarters in 1875 — about
even o'clock. The good people were enthusiastic, and
had much hard talking to get through before Miss
tu's inquiries after her English and Japanese friends of
years before were satisfactorily answered.
There being an exhibition in full swing. I contri-
llted my penny, which was about the full worth of the
rivileges of admission — for it was a poor affair, the
\y good things being some Shippo ware (cloisonn^) ;
! bulk of the exhibits were indifferent imitations of
reign goods and trade marks. The town appeared in
way altered since I last saw it ; there was, however.
Hew post office, built in what is called in Japan
ireign style," being foreign to all known styles of
llitecture. Here I inquired for letters, but finding
e, telegraphed to Hugo at Osaka, and in the course
he afternoon received a code message, that is, a single

l8o EIGHT YEARS m JAPAIf.

word we had previously agreed upon, to import oo
change— the government not overthrown, nobody's house
burnt down, nor anything else happened to cause un-
easiness.

Then I did a little shopping, to wit, a doten of Bass,
and an umbrella, and returned to the hotel to fratemiie
with a melancholy globe-trotter, speechless as I was
in my early days in the country, and in char^ of a
professional interpreter from the Hiogo Hotel, at Ki^
He had been stopping in Nagoya for two days, and
finding it dull had only just got up. We had dinner
t<^ether, and afterward* a cup of sak^, at which Miss Iku
assisted with her usual alTability ; so that the globe-
trotter was both amused and educated, I believe. Upon
the lady retiring with the remark that she felt quite
drunk — which was not shocking, but merely a form of
native politeness on taking leave — we discussed routes,
and went to bed at eleven o'clock.

On the 27th, I started away before seven o'clock, of
course without seeing the globe-trotter. Had a fast nin
over a level country, crossing several rivers by bridges,
at each of which there was 3 toll to pay, and reached
MayegasQ, seventeen miles, in less than three houiS,
I was now on the way to visit the shrines of Is^, of whidl
I had heard as most interesting but little known places
— to foreigners, that is — as they lie out of any usud
track through the country, though pilgrims in thousand!
come every year from alt parts of the land, following
short cuts such as I had travelled two days before, wiUl
false mile-posts to lure them on. I had originally
tended to go by junk from Miya, the port of Nag^

milDAYTRIP: NIKKO, THE NAKA-SEN-DO, AND ISE. l8

W Is^, as near the shrines as possible, but found upon
inquiry that this would perhaps not be so expeditious
as the dolour by land.

From Mayegasii, however, there is a long ferry to

Kua-ana across the mouths of the Kiso and two or three

oiher rivers that fall into the bay about the same point,

cutting up the land into numerous islands. 1 had to

take two boats, one with a single sculler for self and

sen-ant, and another with two men for the baggage and

jinriWishas ; and we went down one river, through a long

connecting creek into a second, down that again, and up'

a third. The larger boat barely held its load, one of the

ilcishas being perched on the extreme bow, with its

!els just touching the water ; and as this suggested

somebody a similarity to a paddle-steamer, ali the

ilies took it upon themselves in succession to turn

wheels round for the whole distance, over five miles

—of course with no useful effect whatever, but they

spt it up with the gravity and persistence usually

applied to the building of card-houses, the painting of

nursery doors with pure water, or the shoo-shoo-ing in

the manner of a locomotive engine, as practised by

diildren. I have no doubt that they were very happy.

Id that it kept them out of mischief.

We made Kuwana in a little over the hour, landing

Under the walls of the old castle, of which only one or

'*''0 of the corner guard-houses were still extant upon

the ramparts. This is a great timber-trading and boat-

''"ilding place, and appears to be thriving, though shorn

"'^ils ancient glories and rivalled by Yokkaichi hard by,

*"Cre there is depth of water for sea-going steamers to

1 82

EIGHT YEARS m JAPAN.

] shell c

^^L to iniE

^^1 wandei

^^L my fee

approach, and a brisk commerce is carried on. t
Kuwana honjin, a very good specimen of the \
class of " travellers' rest," I was served with wh
certainly the most delicately cooked and exqi
dainty native meal I have ever had ; so I did not f
the time they took about preparing it It wa;
simple^ — egg soup, broiled fish, rice (of course^
stewed mushrooms with soy, instead of the un
" daiko," and boiled bamboo root, as sweet as a nu
There is a ferry direct from Miya to Kuwana,
twenty-four miles, across shallows that enable neai
whole way to be accomplished by poling, when tt
is up, and sticking fast and sleeping when it is ■
thus bridging over the gap that here exists in the Tc
or eastern coast road between Tokiyo and Kiyoto
went on from Kuwana along this road, through
kaichi, and two or three miles beyond the lattei
turned off at right angles, passing under a large "
that marked the commencement of the Is^
the high road to the shrines. All this afterno
we progressed southward, we met a gentle sea-l
that I gulped down with delight, after my up-ci
experiences. I suppose one never loses the tas
sea-air, even if one does not care mucli for the sea
and the same town that is renowned as the birf
of Sayers afforded me shelter as a youngster, w
was supposed that to drink sea-water out of t
shell cups might do me no harm, though it was
to impossible to tell what would do me good
wandered many a day over the shingle, and dis
my feeble tootsicums on the sand, and learnt to

^UDAY TRIP: NIKKO, THE NAKA-SEN-DO, AND ISE. 183

E smell of the ocean breezes, and love them at home
d abroad.

The road itself was a tedious and uninteresting one,
ndy and soft ; and runninfj parallel to tlie coast, where
(line of matsu trees, crooked and irregular, spoiit the
ward view. We reached Tsu, another castle town,
n after seven o'clock, and found good lodgings, pro-
ed with a most sumptuous bath-room, — every piece of
jdwork and every utensil being lacquered.
Left Tsu for Yamada on the 2Sth, — the latter being
; town adjoining the shrines, Is^ being the name of
: large province that borders the bay of Owari on its
itern side, and forms the eastern division of the large
montory called comprehensively Kishiu.and including
era) provinces between the bay of Owari and the Kii
innel. We dropped our baggage at a place called
teuzaka, as I had no time to dawdle about now,— in
\, I had already found out that I could do little more
B skim over my ground, for it would take all of six
Bths to do anything like justice to the places I had
kided in the trip ; and would require a much more
Id preliminary education than I could bring to the
t So I only intended, just to "have a look-see," and
DC back, and MatsiJzaka was a good point, so far as I
fw, for a night's rest
About noon we reached a large river, over which we
B ferried into Yamada; and we fell with fury upon
shrines, finding quite handy that of the Goddess of
id, so far as I could make it out. Coming to a plain
(den fence about ten feet high, and noticing the gable
s of some thatched buildings, in my innocence I

1 84 EIGHT YEARS IN ^APAlf.

inquired what this was — and lo ! it was the holy place
itself I So turning the corner of the fence, I came to a
gateway closed by a white curtain, on some mats in Gront
of which lay a number of coins of the smallest possible
value, and also some little twists of paper, which might
contain more valuable offerings, or might not Before
the gateway were several worshippers on their knee^
clapping their hands in the usual praying fashion. As
the curtain swayed with the breeze I could get a glimpse
or two of a gravelled courtyard beyond, in which stood
the aforesaid thatched buildings, and that was all ; there
was no going beyond the entrance — for me, at least.
Close by was a pond, said to be the effect of the lint
rain that ever fell upon the earth. A few broad steps
led up the hill to a couple of isolated shrines, one on each
hand, plain buildings of wood and thatch, strictly closed.
Nothing could, be less imposing, but from the demeanouf
of the people it was evident that they were regarded
with the deepest reverence.

Rather disappointed I re-entered the jinrikisha,
traversed the town {the native newspapers had lately
mentioned that a fresh supply of seven hundred — weli
say waitresses — had been engaged by the enterprisii^
proprietors of the various houses of entertainment for
the pious pilgrims, in view of the approaching season),
and out away beyond for about a mile, taking tifEn ati
good tea-house overlooking a clear stream and a green
hillside \ and proceeded to the second, and greata
shrine.

At a bridge across the river I found a big torii, ot
stone gateway, and dismounted from my wheels, as »

^UDAY TRIP: NIKKO, THE NAfCA-SE/f-DO, AJVD ISE. 185

licles are allowed to pass here. The bridge is said to
the first ever built, and all others are only imitations
it, which will account for there being nothing very
liceable about it — except lies, perhaps. Crossing the
;r, I turned along the bank, past a little collection of
ises, the backs of which I afterwards found I had
irted, and then came upon a plain wooden fence as
ifore, with an open gateway, through which we passed
a park containing numbers of gigantic trees thickly
etered together, and presently came to a clearing
re there were some priests' houses, and two thatched
Is — one a stable containing two white horses, one
bg and one only a stuffed effigy,— and the other, I
K>ose, a praying apartment, A little beyond was a
iJi stockade, enclosing the shrine ; the entrance of
:h was just lifce that of the first one, and closed with
iriiite veil.
I asked one of the priests if it were not possible to
inside, and committed myself horribly by telling him
tt I had been all over the Nikko shrines. He smiled
Btly, and said that this was a very different sort of
ice to Nikko — as indeed it was. However, he led me
ind to the aide of the enclosure, and up on to a bank
sufficient height to enable me to see over the stockade.
bund the enclosure was a triple one, the fences being
twt six feet apart all round, the central space being
ided off into several courts, with six thatched sheds
the same kind as before, somewhat symmetrically
:d within. On each flank was a gateway, but in
outer stockade only : at the rear, three gateways
iing in a straight line for the central shed, all

1 86 EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN.

carefully closed and secured. The whole place mig^t
be sixty or seventy yards square.

The ornamental features were pairs of horns above
each gable of the principal buildings, formed by pro-
longing the end rafters upwards through the roof; the
tips were protected by bronze plates. Across the ridges
of the thatched roofs were round bolsters of wood, about
six feet apart, bound with bronze or copper rings. On
every post a bunch of twigs with strips of paper inter-
twined was hung to a nail. Nothing could well be
plainer— and I could not help thinking of cowhouses in
a straw-yard. The buildings are designedly maintained
in most primitive style, repairs being executed every
twenty-first year ; when I was there I noticed that the
thatch was in many places decayed and defective.

One cannot wonder at the veneration with which
these shrines are regarded, when it is thought that here,
according to the tradition, or rather the myth, the divine
ancestors of the human dynasty of Japan's rulers first
descended upon the earth ; and that this is consequently
the original fountain of the Shinto faith.

After passing all round the enclosure, we visited two
isolated shrines in the park, one of which I made outbl::
be dedicated to the God of Winds, and is reached
another ancient bridge across the river, which
makes a right-angled bend ; the other shrine was near
the entrance of the park. Each had an open shed before
the door, to shelter the devout whilst praying. This
was all that was to be seen, by a person of my previous
information, at any rate ; so having no religious duties
to perform, I came away, leaving the park by a,

HOUDAY TRIP: NIKKO, THE NAKA-SBN-DO,AlfD ISE. 1 87

leading direct into the main street of a small village,
consisting entirely of shops for the sale of mementos,
charms, pictures, and so on, to the pilgrims. A din, the
dike of which I have never heard, except in the ring at
lEpsom, arose on our appearance, the women in the
Aops riishing to the front, and with theatrical gestures,
tntreating us to enter and buy, which we didn't. It
ising to note the way in which successive dealers
llook up the cry as we passed down the street ; voci-
■fcrated, implored, expostulated, and finally complained,
['So you won't even look at our wares, won't you .' " as
f w passed by.

Recrossing the bridge, and resuming our wheels, I
L ilifted for a place called Futdrai, at the foot of a hill
[by the sea-shore, where are two peculiarly shaped rocks
Handing out in the sea, between which, at favourable
, one can see the sun rise over Fujisan, some
ninety miles away. All this, however, I only know
1 description, for on making some inquiries while
neeting a little delay at a ferry, I found the place was
) far distant now the day was waning ; so I turned
9ck, not in very good humour, and made tracks for
^atsuzaka.

On the road I noticed a real stone arch of small
fffan, quite an exceptional thing in Japan, where all the
' country bridges are of wood, or of flat stone slabs ; but
occasionally one does find, even in remote out-of-the-
way places, quite familiar signs of an unexpected kind.
In two places far apart, and only two that I can
remember, I have seen stone direction posts at some
fork, with the hand and outstretched index finger carved,

EIGHT YEARS IN yAPAH.

as a guide to the unlettered pilgrim ; and found it useful
to this unlettered pilgrim.

On thi^ road I also saw for the first and on]y tim
(though I have heard of the same thing being noted b
Kadzusa, not far from Tokiyo), women drawing jinrt-
kishas along the road. For the credit of manhood, it
was their own sex only who patronized their vehicles, so
far as I could see ; but the rights of women will alter aB
that by and by, perhaps, and leave poor manhood no
credit for using his own legs, like a selfish brute, when
he might find work for a woman's. There were many
parties of pilgrims on the road, dressed in white
garments, or what once were so, each headed by a leader
carrying a long staff" with bells attached to it.

From Yamada of Is^ (for Yamada, Oiwakc, and a
great many other names are as common as comoS'
about the land) commences a round of thirty-three hoi/
places, to visit all of which takes from three to six
months ; so that what with coming from the far ends ol
Japan, some pilgrims are best part of a twelvemonth
away from home. The length of a journey, howeveiV
probably concerns no one less than a Japanese farmer;
he has untiring legs, and infinite patience, and can Ih*
on frugal fare, and put up with the most primitive
lodging, and, as their proverb says, " A thousand ri B
but one step, or more," so they go on philosophically
and doggedly putting one foot before the other, and in
time — lo ! the task is done.

The last of the thirty-three places is Tanigumi, noP
Akasaka in Mino, my head-quarters in 1875. I w^
remember the parties of pilgrims who used to pass

f y TRIP: NIKKO, THE NAKA-SEN-DO, AND ISE.

a dozen yards of my pillow, having completed
ind, hung up their white garments, shaved, filled
Ives with sak^, and started for home, roaring
■ along the road in the light of the harvest moon,
Matsuzaka, I managed to get a cold bath that
y refreshing ; as also was the innocent naivete of
ics who were taking their warm bath next door,
common dressing, or rather drying-room for the
ices. Any show of modesty on my part would
ave hurt their feelings, I knew, so I did as
id, rubbed myself dry, with a good rough towel
they asked permission to examine, as it was so
It to their little "tenugui," of about two square

cotton : and marched away to my room, like
before the fall. As usual I was awfully sleepy
he evening meal ; and my boy's well meant
t to make arrangements for the next day were
»d by his finding me fathoms deep in slumber by
ic he had found out the " lie of the land."
icever, I was up early on the 2gth, to decide
he next move. I had intended to strike right
for Osaka, taking Nara on the way ; and my
98 were addressed to the nature of the road,
is turned out very unpromising. Only the first
or fifteen miles could be done on wheels ; the
15, moreover, said to be so bad that sixpence a ri —
)pence halfpenny a mile — per man was the lowest
the jinrikisha men would hear of; and then I

have two days' walking across the mountains.
other hand, I could get round by the Tokaido to
, and thence visit Nara by a good road in no

IpO EIGin YEARS I.V JAPAN:

more time ; so I decided upon the " longest way round,"
as being the "shortest way there," and started at
half-past seven.

We returned by way of Tsu. and then struck off" to
the left by a cross road, sandy and badly broken, fw
Seki, on the Tokaido, missing about fifteen miles of
that road from the point where I had turned off down
to Is6 Just beyond Seki, I found the Sudzuka pass— it
has always been in the same place, so that I had no
difficulty in making the discovery— and was amused to
find this hiil-road, of which the people talk in Kiyotoas
a great obstacle, because, as I suppose, it is the first Wt
of a hill one comes to, on a journey eastward, to be a
regular imposition. I was up at the top in no time, and
the men and the baggage were close behind : I should say
it is not more than about four hundred feet of an ascent

We were now in the watershed of Lake Biwa again,
and rattled along merrily down-hill, with here and thert
a little spur to cross, just to relieve the monotony of
having it all one's own way ; but still it was half-pasl
seven before we reached Ishibe, where I thought I would
put up rather than push on to Kiyoto, or Kusatsii even.
At the honjin I found the best rooms at the back closed
up, the sliding screens sealed, and straw-rope with loops
of paper and tassels of straw festooned across them.
The Empress Dowager (who, though the greatest lady
in the kingdom, does not happen to be the mother (rf
the present Mikado— that honour is enjoyed by a lady
of the court, generally called by the newspapers Mii
Hosokawa) had recently rested here on her journey
from Kiyoto back to Tokiyo, and the rooms she hai

HOUDAYTRIP: NIKKO, THE NAKA-SEN-DQ, AND ISE. igi

occupied were not to be profaned by common people.
1 didn't want the rooms, but I did want fresh air, which
could not be made to circulate so long as these rooms
were closed, so I left the house and went to another,

I where I also declined the best rooms available; much to
the astonishment of the host, who didn't understand how
much better was fresh air than dignity to a foreigner.
[pitched upon a very nice room with a garden on two
sides of it, so that I could be cool ; but by tliis time it

I was dark, and I did not get dinner till half-past nine,

I Wing breakfasted at six. However, all was right, and
in another hour I was asleep, with " a fig for " possible
nightmare.

On the last day of June, I re-entered ground prc'
viously traversed, at Kusatsu, where the Tolcaido and
Naka-scn-do unite ; and by eleven I was at Kiyoto
station. Between OtsiJ and Kiyoto I was stopped five
times by the police, for examination of my servant's

II pass; for during the stay of the Mikado in Kiyoto no
naliw could travel a mile without giving an account of

ll himself, within a day's walk of the old capital. At the

station I met Tom, with whom I had tiffin ; and then

proceeded homeward, to find the dogs ali right and

everything prepared for my reception, for I had sent the

^>y on ahead with the baggage. In the evening Hugo

in, and we smoked the pipe of contentment

Jier, comparing notes of our travels,

"he journey from Osaka to Nara, and thence to

vote, or vice versa, has been so often described that

bn't propose to record the commonplace incidents of

! t«'o days I devoted to it, after I had read all my

192

EIGHT YEARS IH JAPAH.

back papers and letters, having still so much left of my
month's leave. Othpr than commonplace there is
nought to record, — and by the time I returned*! had
my hands full, as I had to take over charge from Tom,
who in turn went away to recruit his health ; and I fell
to work again with good spirits and feeling as if, should
it be necessary to save the country by jumping over a
lamp-post, I could indicate the man to do it

CHAPTER VIII.

OSAKA AND TOKIYO {1877).

As I had my neighbour's length to look after as well as
my own, I was very busy directly after my return, the
first week being one of heavy rain and floods ; but the
extreme heat had not yet commenced, and the ther-
mometer descended below 85^ Fahr. every night, so that
did not feel like beginning any deduction from the
stock of health and strength laid in during my holiday.

We took advantage of the summer nights to attend
the /^fes on the river; for the military officials of the
rious organizing departments were collected in Osaka,
d brought with them materials for gaiety and pleasure,
addition to stimulating the local supply of means for
it-hearted dissipation. Frequently the bands of the
ifits, stationed in barges moored in the river opposite
"pleasure quarter" of the city, sent the sound of
marches, quick steps, and waltzes echoing from
tk to bank, while lantern-lit boats glided about with
;hts of laughing "geisha," and the sellers of fire-
and ice-vendors with their cry of " kori-kori,"
jdlcd hihter and thither between the bridges. Few,
■haps, thought at such hours, of the day's work that

194 EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN.

had been done down in Kiu-shiu, or of the lives thai
might be ebbing away under the forest trees that broke
the moonlight as it fell upon the parched hjll-sides d
Hiuga.

The Mikado returned to Tokiyo on the 2Sth Julys
exactly six months from the date of his arrival, a
special train being run from Kiyoto to Kobe ; and
within an hour of its reaching the terminus, the stcamet
carrying the Imperial party was pounding away towards
the south as if the devil was behind it People said that
the Adzuma-kan, the ironclad that had been lying some
time at Kobe, with a crew of Satsuma men on boanL
was looked upon with distrust ; but I don't believe il
was really the case. Any feeling of disloyalty tha^
could take an active shape was already out of date, and
while the rebels of KJu-shiu were surrendering daily b
hundreds, the actual whereabouts of the rebel leader
was hardly known with any certainty ; they i
scarcely now possessed of any serious power.

The summer " matsuri " at Osaka and Kiyoto wer
carried on with more than the usual altitude of jinks
The Kiyoto matsuri, specially connected with the "Gioni
quarter of the city, inhabited by singing and dancing
girls and such like, not to be too particularly dcscriptivcj
was well worth seeing. About fifty of the most roj
nowned beauties of Kiyoto, dressed in theatrical fashiol
to represent characters famed in story or drama, passeq
in procession through the principal streets of the quartci
to the great Gion shrine. About every thirty yards d
so a short halt was made, and appropriate dumb-shoU
gone through, to tickle the spectators' recollections oj

OSAATA AMD TOKIYO.

195

episodes with which the characters were connected,

evoke their applause. The various groups were of

surrounded with lanterns, so that it was difficult

letimes to see what was going on ; but if one missed

Bic point of any one display, there were others to come ;

■rod so for nearly two hours the interest was sustained,

IS the procession passed between the rival hotels of

Jiutei and Nakamuraya, and entered the precincts of the

pple. So a summer night was passed in the old

rital of Japan, a place made for all pleasure.

I was very comfortable in my little diggings in

ika during the hot weather; and had frequent visitors

D Kobe, who looked upon my spare room as a " sure

1" for a night's rest, for if there was a breeze stirring

ould entice it in, and cunningly temper it with nets,

[ my work was drawing to a conclusion in this field,

I in September I was summoned away to succeed the

ncipal Engineer in Tokiyo, formerly our Chief Assistant

Kobe and Osaka. He had been much broken up in

5, when his old friend Sheppard died, and had many

ibles on his head in the busy part of 1876. When

Htnt to Tokiyo it was evident that his powers were

bg ; and we were all concerned at his appearance

n he came down to attend the state opening of the

; He was looking better when I saw him in the

Itiaing of June, in his own house ; but my first news

returning to Osaka was of his serious illness, and

r a hard fight of it, he succumbed on the 14th of

tember, the determining cause being cancer in the

at. He had been granted six months' leave, after

Kven years' service, when it was known that he could

EIGHT YEARS IN JAPA!^.

not possibly live to enjoy it ; in accordance with tt
principles of the department. Every one felt the sal
about him ; the ne^v5 of his death, expected though
was, seemed to bring men together in a common loss.

So I had to hand over my charge at Osaka to ti
elder Tom, who divided it with the other Tom, and bctall
myself again across the stretch of sea between Kobe and
Yokohama ; thus completing my journey back from the
outlying appointments I had at first held to the metro-
polis of the country in which I had now been workiog
nearly four years. I was not sony to do it ; new woifl
and new surroundings were welcome after the cos^
parative shelving I had experienced since the completion
of my task in Kiyoto.

Before I left for my appointment, I heard of the
actual termination of hostilities in the south. On the
24th of September, Saigo, the rebel leader, and a few of
his chief supporters, with a small body of men, having
eluded the Imperial troops when the main force surren-
dered, and made their way to the original focus of the
rebellion, at Kagoshima, were there attacked in the grey
of the morning and destroyed to a man before the sun
was high. So the last act of this sad drama came to a
close, and the last penalty of their crime was paid, in the
currency that heroes recognize, by the mistaken leaden
and the remnant of their misguided followers. If in
days to come the hill behind Kagoshima, to which the
echoes of the last volleys fired in the great rebellion,
returned from the mountains that look upon the old
seat of the Satsuma power, should become a familiar
object to the sight or the tread of the foreigner, it will

OSAKA AMD TOKiyO. I97

be associated with none of the sordid struggles of the
ending adventurer, or the jealousies of native and
imported bankrupts ; but the shrine that commemorates
the purging, by blood and fire, of a sin that could not
bve been committed for greed of any less high pos-
xssioo than the responsibility for a nation's life, will
draw its votaries from all lands that hold in honour
political courage, personal sacrifice, and faithfulness unto
death.

Already the wearied forces of the government were
{ttnraiag, as the field of operations narrowed ; but a long
lof troubles was yet to be gone through, ere the accounts
the transaction could be balanced. Cholera dogged
! Steps of the returning army, claimed its victims
thin sight of their homes, and lurked around their
s for years after the fight was over. As the need for
perating the healthy from the tainted became apparent,
"as decided to land the bulk of the troops at Kobe on
ir return from the south, and march them overland to
BT homes, with every precaution to keep the pestilence
\ of the great cities. There was fear and trepidation in
Jbe, as the crowded transports discharged their freight
the railway pier, and the ragged regiments passed away
hnd. But the season was already cooling, and the
isures taken to check the spread of the disease were

:, so far as to satisfy reasonable expectation.

While I was waiting in Kobe for my steamer (which

I said to be taking a lot of soldiers direct to Yokohama,

} to the propriety of travelling by which I had my

s J but then if I went overland I should have pretty

Dcb the same neighbours all the way, so that the*

19* EIGHT YEARS IN "JAPAN.

preference lay with the speedier mode of transit in the
end), a sad accident occurred on the railway one night
of blinding storm. The line being a single one vfith
passing stations at intervals, in order to accommodate the
troops some trains were duphcated, a special running ia
front of the ordinary train, so that two up trains had to
arrive at a passing station before the down train might
leave it, to find the road clear to the next passing station,
Unfortunately, the special service was not continuous, but
dependent upon the arrival of vessels with troops in port,
and it was not possible to inform all employes of what
trains had to be passed at any given station, though the
station-masters, nominally in control, were of course in-
formed and the usual precautions taken. It was, how-
ever, a common practice for the drivers to rely more oS
what they knew themselves than upon the station-masters ;
and, indeed, otherwise the traffic would have been subject
to constant interruptions by reason of the defective
experience of the latter, who, being all Japanese them-
selves, relied upon the foreigner on the engine in a great
measure. This system was unquestionably a bad ooe^
though for the ordinary simple traffic it was convenient
under many circumstances ; but there was little safeguard
in ease a driver became reckless or inattentive, or wat
ignorant of important facts outside his own instructiont
It so happened that the driver of a return train of
empty carriages waiting at Nishinomiya, the passing
station half-way between Osaka and Kobe, for the sin(^(
line before him to be cleared, and not knowing that
special was preceding the ordinary train, took the form
to be the latter, and assumed that he had nothing moro'

OSAKA AND TOKIYO.

199

) for, — or perhaps didn't think much about it, — for

ing a whistle, he took it for his starting signal, and

iway ; and met the ordinary train full butt, within

) or three miles. Undoubtedly the driver was to

me, for he did not even look back for the Samp signal

should have accompanied the whistle, and the

ce of which should have warned him. As it was he

ly left his head guard behind on the platform, very

!i to that gentleman's subsequent satisfaction. The

^t was one of furious wind and rain, and all efforts

b attract the driver's attention were unavailing. So the

astrophe being inevitable unless by some happy chance

5 drivers of the opposing trains should sight each

n time to pull up, notice was immediately wired

Kobe, and the heads of the staff roused up,

1 was then staying with my friend the Locomotive

jerintendent, and owing to the bad weather, which

N)t us in the house, we had retired to roost early; but

ben my host called me up the storm was passing away.

n as an engine could be got ready, and the doctor

nmoned, we were off for the scene of the collision,

idy reported from a wayside station near the spot

; it occurred, by messenger.

e two trains must have met almost at full speed,

nding rain preventing the drivers getting a sight of

h other's lights till they were quite close up. However,

f cause that assisted to bring about the accident

: measure, that is the storminess of the weather,

J tended to mitigate its effects, in point of fatality.

he down train, as already stated, was empty, the head

rpiard left behind, so that only the driver and fireman were

I had bdlH
lalf the tUw

200 EWHT YEAXS IN JAPAN.

in the way of trouble ; the up train
shorter than usual by taking off half
carriages, and the first and second class, usuall/ in
middle, were now next the front brake-van, and they s
both empty, as the weather kept the possible trave!
in these classes at home ; so that the driver, (iremaii,
head guard only were in the way. Of these five men
were killed on the spot, the fireman and guard of Uk
train ; the driver thereof jumped and received sei
injuries, but survived. The driver who was in fault
badly hurt, and died in a few days in hospital ; and
fireman ultimately recovered from very severe injai
The smash was so complete, the two engines lock
together and the trains mounting on to them, that i
the wreck was pretty well cleared away so that the wh
and a-x!es could be counted, there was no telling exa
how many vehicles were destroyed.

The day after this mishap, with which we
engineers had only to do in the way of setting thi
straight again. I left Kobe in the Saikiyo Mi
formerly the Nevada. We had several generals
board, one of whom, a bright looking man, who told
he had been at Cambridge, and had subsequently stut
the military art under French tuition, gave me a caj
account of the operations that brought the affair
a conclusion, and how Saigo and about two hum
men had slipped under his elbow, so to speak, and
behind his back into Kagoshima. He said he had \
commanding the " heimin " troops, of whom he
quite proud, and gave a very good report; with tl
he said he had climbed so many hills that he she

0SAX4 AND TOKIYO. 20I

|_be a good pedestrian all his life, and at that moment
13 ready to match himself against any professed
MiDtaineer.

We had a fine passage, and no sickness on board
at I heard of — but I thought the fewer inquiries the
Mter — so that every one was in the highest possible
^rits when we landed at Yokohama.

The next three months were a time of almost
unremitting worry and trouble for me ; and I had but
little time to give to pleasure, or to bothering myself
ibout the cholera, that in spite of all precautions had
cached the capital. I had a staff with which I was
tally unacquainted, to assist me in work that I had
I find out everything about My own cadets, that I
d taken some trouble with during the last four years,
1 to leave behind for the eider Tom, who made good
e of them. The only English assistant-engineer had
I special work to look after away from the head office.
> the renewal of the long bridge over the
ulcugo river, the first and largest work of the renewals
r required along the whole line ; and was in itself
Uy as much as one man could be expected to look

The new bridge, which was constructed on a different
e to the old one, was virtually complete structurally
len I arrived ; and after testing and connecting up
S) the existing line at each end, was opened by the
bister of Public Works, Mr. Ito Hirobumi, on the 29th
November, with some little festive ceremony. This
t the largest iron bridge yet constructed in Japan,
I was very creditable to Theodore Shann, the assistant-

ETGHT YEARS Iff JAfAK.

engineer, who had charge of the works under my two
predecessors in succession, and who, owing to poor
England's death, was the only available representative
of the engineering talent employed upon it at tic
opening.

More remained behind, however, as there were over
forty other bridges, varying from some hundreds to one
ten of feet in length, to be renewed ; and these were
all on the existing line. Of general work there was
no lack, and I had to go through my staff like a raging
fire before 1 could get things straight. This little piece
of railway of eighteen miles, the first constructed in the
country, was a model almost of what things should not
be, from the rotting wooden drains to the ambitious
terminal stations, that always suggested by their arrange-
ment the idea that they had been cast, from some
region under heaven, with a pitchfork into the places
where they were now visible. I also found that the
ideas of work generally were very different in the
metropolis to what we had been accustomed to in
the provinces. I was so taken aback by what I sa*
at first, that I made excursions to various other scenes
of building operations, and noted what was in progress,
before 1 could believe that what was called wort
in Tokiyo was really regarded in that light .- and it wa»
only by getting the Japanese authorities to introduce
piecework with a progressively decHning scale oE
payment that I could succeed in approaching the
efficiency of labour elsewhere. My native assistants
were some of them of a dreamy temperament,
considered the first thing necessary in all calculations

OSAKA AND TQKIYO.

203

Ifolvnng inches, was to reduce every dimension into
icimals of a foot, to six places of decimals at least ;
d then resorted to books of logarithms to throw some
^l upon their subject. In this way about a week

s required to ascertain how many bricks went to
given-sized wall. However, the joy that there was in
Kcadets' office over one sum that had proved amenable
Ipcrsuasion was so great that one could hardly regret
[ ninety and nine cases that ended in as many
surdities ; and we did get along somehow.

I had succeeded also to my predecessor's house
the Shimbashi terminus in Tokiyo, a good-sized rcsi-
; for a large family, being a pair of semi-detached

ses knocked into one. The garden was large and

rably well stocked ; and the situation pretty open

I near the bay. Like many houses in Japan, it
B a wooden framework disguised in the appearance
jnasonry by means of plaster, and as all houses do
Japan sooner or later, it came to a sad ending ; but
't in its place — not yet awhile, thank goodness.

So my fourth year of work came to its close, with
1 still to do in view before mc ; and surroundings
It, I was happy to find, only wanted a little looking
ensure that my leisure moments should not

devoid of a certain recreative pleasure, handmaid
efui effort

204 EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN,

CHAPTER IX.

tokiyO (1878).

The first few days of 1878 were by no means such as
the Japanese love to find about the new year. The last
two days of December and the first three of January
are official holidays ; the 4th is appointed for a com-
mencement of business, which means merely attendance
for half an hour; the 5th is another holiday, and so
on. The closing days of the year are supposed to be
devoted to settling one's private affairs and providing for
festivities, and the opening days of the new year are
devoted to socialities, such as complimentary calls and
receptions.

All persons of sufficient rank to entitle them to the
calls of a large number of clients, subordinates, or
intimates, provide a box and a boy to wait at the front
door ; and it is not necessary, unless some degree of
intimacy exists between the caller and the " callee," for
the former to go beyond inserting his card in the box,
and receiving the thanks of the boy for his politeness.
In bad weather this business of calling is rather a bore,
but many give themselves up to it systematicall/f
which compels those who arc not fond of exchangiiig

TOKIYO. 10%

ci^-ilities with ceremonious visitors, to go away for a
week's shooting, or contrive otherwise so as not to be
caught at home; and really bad weather is a nuisance
to them also. This year it was almost constantly
raining up to the gth of January ; but at last it cleared
up and allowed people to polish off all arrears.

A walk through the streets of any lai^e town, on
a fine day at the commencement of a year, is rather
an amusing experience. The good people pervade the
streets in holiday garments, on calling expeditions; or,
in the case of women, armed with battledore, they
^)ccupy any available space near their own doors and fill
fi air with shuttle-cocks, while children and servants
|r kites. One's progress has to be warily conducted,
jliless it is a joy to be beaten on the back and smitten
It the nose (always with profuse apologies), or harried
jr whirring things, or entangled in strings, or butted in
e chest by smiling persons whose eyes are fixed upon
roc acquaintance who is returning their bow from the
thet side of the road. The babies, carried on the back,
e the only beings who don't come to grief in some
|tty, for the occasional delivery of them on to the
oadway, over their mothers' shoulders, like coals, is of
merely so much practice for them against they
B-'Srebig enough to butt the stranger.

On the 2nd of January was held the usual Imperial
■itteption for officials of my degree, representative of
I the foreign element in the government departments.
I On the 1st, the Mikado receives the Ministers of State
1 wd the representatives of foreign Powers. We smaller
I luminaries assembled on the 2nd, at our different head-

206 EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN.

quarters in the first place, and then proceeded to the
palace, where, after an interval of waiting, and being
marshalied in file in a long corridor, where the risk of
fire had been, I suppose, minimized, we marched up and
made our bows to the Mikado and Empress, I never
could see that either of the august personages did more
than glare stonily at the bearded ones who advanced
and retired with such assumption of dignity as lay within
their powers ; but perhaps I was veiling my orbs before
the beaming splendour of the Imperial gaze when the
wink, or whatever it was, of recognition accorded to my
homage actually took place.

The first year I was summoned to take part in this
solemn function, there were over a hundred of us ; the
last time, but three short years afterwards, less than forty
remained to represent tlie foreign element in the service
of his Imperial Majesty's government.

Of my work in Tokiyo during the next three years
I shall have but little to say. It consisted, in addition
to the routine business of a local charge, of the actual
rebuilding of nearly every work throughout the line, and
the carrying out of all improvements necessary to convert
a very ricketty single line into a double line of railway,
with all essentials and appurtenances of the best
description, and worthy of the road between the chief
city of the empire and its port. A special interest was
provided for myself, in the gradual reduction of the
foreign, that is to say, the experienced portion of
the available staff, and the consequent modification ot
the modes of working at first in force. As it was the
settled policy of the department to take advantage of"

TOK/YO.

207

pCWcry occurrence tending to deprive me of the assistance
H at first received from foreign employes, and to compel
Kncourse to the Japanese staff for the execution of all
work, commonplace or critical, I was glad to find that
this was pursued with such an application of brains to
the considerations of all points involved, that 1 never
■was called upon to set my own judgment aside, and
accept risks that I could not accurately calculate the
extent of.

It is true that as Principal Engineer, with a staff
under me supposed to include engineers of the assistant
grades, I had, in fact, to become by degrees a sort of
roving inspector or foreman, as my knowledge of what
could be done by those under my orders suggested the
particular points at which they probably could not do
all that was required of them, without my personal
superintendence. Every reduction of the foreign staff
involved some redistribution of the duties of the rest,
and some arrangement by which assistance in the more
difficult part of the task to which a Japanese was
newly appointed should be afforded to him by the
remaining foreigners, and in the last resort, by myself;
so that it occasionally happened that my Japanese staff,
so far from assisting me, claimed my assistance in the
discharge of their duties. It was a part of my responsi-
bility, whicli I had always to recognize in my own mind,
though saying as little about it as possible, to judge how
far the person appointed as nominally competent to fill
a certain post (frequently by a sort of " Hobson's " choice)
could be trusted to run alone, and at what particular
moment he would find himself wavering to an extent

208 EIGHT YEARS m yAPAfT.

that made it advisable that I should be behind hii
give him a shove, or at his right hand to supplement his
want of experience or ingenuity. This was the wearr
some part of the business, and I don't think the people
themselves quite recognized it.

I am inclined to think that I was so far safe per-
sonally, that if any mishap had occurred it would have
been easily connected with its true cause, and that I
should not have incurred blame for placing in charge of
works, at which such a mishap might arise, a man not
thoroughly competent to replace his foreign predecessor,
when I had no alternative, and simply was responsible
for doing the best I could with what I had at n^
disposal. As, however, it was not desirable that any
mistake should be made, I had constantly to consider
what was actually due to be in hand at any particulir
spot and particular time, and contrive to get there i*
person, should it be requisite for the safety of the traffic
that special precaution should be observed.

At the same time, I must acknowledge that by this
means, as I suppose by this means only it could hart
been brought about, I came to know the native staff s*
well, and the gradual progress of their powers so iAti^i
mately, that the anxiety I felt in the first days
substituting Japanese for foreign foremen at criti*
points became greatly limited, and I could confident
entrust to some of my native assistants, after a
work that I should have thought it most rash to plao^l
in their hands earlier. On the whole, it may be said
that as regards the actual execution of work, the trainefi
Japanese workmen and foremen are both intellij

TOKIYO. 209

conscientious ; and I had every reason, before leaving

Tskiyo, 10 be satisfied with the progress made by the

native staff generally. It is no slight matter to their

credit, that from the time when 1 first had to employ

Ihcm witliout any intermediate supervision, until the

renewals and doubling of the line were completed, not

a single case of detention to the ordinary traffic, and

but three cases of obstruction, so slight as only to merit

remembrance because they were but three, occurred to be

charged against the native staff. One of these was the

L placing of a block of stone temporarily, in process of

^(jM hifting it, too near the open line, so that it was actually

^■tnick by the step of a passing engine, and the other

^P?Vo were failures to secure temporary erections so as to

Vfithstand unexpected gusts of wind that blew them over

Towards the railway and fouled the trains : in no case

t"*as any damage done that a few pence would not cover.
V Wc had, however, grave cause for anxiety in the
Mrilful obstructions of the railway, by childish or maliciou.s
persons, that were at times occurring, and against
which it was difficult to obtain any effectual safeguard.
During the works of renewal and doubling, there was
of necessity a quantity of material lying in the immediate
neighbourhood of the rails, and offering the means to
my person who might be alone or unwatched of putting
obstruction on the original line that was in regular
for traffic. Alterations and renewals of the telegraph
were also constantly going forward, and as this was
the hands of other authorities than those of the
Ilway department, it was difficult to ensure the
lessary precautions being always taken.

210 EIGHT YEARS m JAPAN.

I suppose few people who traverse day after day
any well-known route, in London or elsewhere, consider
to what causes, other than their own habitual vigilance
and bodily activity, their practical safety is to be
attributed : and it is only occasionally that some disaster,
such as an outbreak of turbulence, an explosion, or
breakdown of some vehicle, or fall of some structure,
calls attention to existing sources of danger that seem
on examination to be fenced round by insufficient safe-
guards. To take an extreme case, there is nothing, for
instance, in the way of precaution to prevent any man
who passes by me as I stroll homeward with myeveniog
cigar for sole companion, from blowing out my brains
with a pistol from behind, if he should be so evilly

The existence of evil, mischievous and wantoft
dispositions, is undoubted ; and there must therefore Im!
some restraining influence that supplies the want w
precaution in the vast number of cases.

It would no doubt be uncharitable in the extreme
towards any person who doesn't commit a wantM
outrage to say that he is restrained by fear of thS
penalty, or by the knowledge of the penalty; but L
suppose it may almost be assumed now as an axioov
that our impulses in this day are the outcome of
experiences following upon impulses obeyed by
aiicestoi3.

We have progressed so far that it is as matter o
instinct, not of calculation, that we exercise a mutiu
protection and forbearance ; and the ignorance tha
permits the commission of a wanton crime

■iably of the type of mental incapacity, not mere
want of education. As, however, we continue to pride
ourselves upon a certain adventurousness of disposition,
willingness to try experiments of a hazardous nature,
ially before maturity has made us heirs of earlier
turity; so in peoples less advanced we may perhaps
right in looking upon wanton, or mischievous, actions
merely the evidence of yet incomplete mental stature,
t exclusive of the possibility of improvement, in the
bting generation, or the permanent advance of those
Cceeding it.

Just as here in England we hear from time to time
small boys who aver that they put a piece of wood
iron in the way of a train, that they might "see the
Engine jump," so in Japan with children of a laiger
fowth it is much the same story. Indeed, so far as
own experience and observation go, there seems
It reason to believe that many obstructions are created
persons employed as watchmen or gate-keepers, for
mere pleasure of seeing the obstruction smashed
> fragments by the charge of the powerful machine
the head of its train.

There is happily no instance of actual wrecking of
tiain by reason of such obstructions ; but they were
one time so frequently met with, as to demoralize
the staff, and even one or two of the English drivers
were more than suspected of romancing in their reports
of obstruction on the road — one of them had what almost
amounted to a monomania on the subject.

One case that occurred while I was in charge at
Tokiyo, however, will always seem to me to be amongst

213 EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN.

the most remarkable of thoroughly understood events
coming within a hair's-breadth of disaster. It was when
we had a quantity of material for laying down the
second line alongside the single line used for traffic;
the timber sleepers were approximately in place, and
the rails paired, but not fastened in any way. In the
dusk of the evening — the time when such things almost
invariably occur — some person, or perhaps more than
one, lifted one end of a loose rail and carried it round,
laying it across the nearer rail of the running line, point-
ing towards the next approaching train. It was thea
roughly propped in that position with some stones, to
prevent it from slipping down if shaken by vibration
from an approaching train ; and formed an ingenious
preparation for a hideous smash. Yet
occurred, though the train ran into the obstruction at
thirty miles an hour, the driver only sighting it in Uk
twilight as he came round the curve that terminated;
a few yards away from the spot.

What actually happened was this, as we traced S
out by the marks on the engine. The life-guard on the
off-side, the piece of iron specially designed to thto#
obstructions off the rail in advance of the wheels, cau^
the loose rail, throwing it round further across the line}
owing to the far end of the rail being a little lower tl
the running line, there was a slight incline of the ne«
end upward, that brought it against tlie inside fra
of the engine, as it slewed round, just below
bo.x of the near leading wheel, stripping a nut
securing the strap below the box. The sudt
slightly bowed the rail, and it glanced off, mi

wheel, and riding over the boss, or enlargement at the
lower end of the brake-hanger in front of the near
driving wheel, supported on which, and pushed sideways
by the life-guard that had first come in contact with it,
ihe rail was transferred bodily across the line, between
ihc two wheels mentioned, and by the onward motion
of the engine finally delivered clear of everything, on the
near side of the road.

Such an occurrence was not calculated to make
pleasant for any one responsible for the safety of
t public ; and of course the Japanese authorities were
It as anxious as I was. There was some very tall talk
longst the staff, and the propriety of converting a
Id adjoining the spot where the train was not wrecked
Id an execution ground for the occasion ivas mooted,
Wvever, it seemed that the most reasonable way of
ating an outrageous crime was to show, if possible,
all interested, that justice need not deviate one step
m her regular path in dealing with it, and that the
Baity and its enforcement were commonplace as well
inevitable ; and this view found favour with those
lose advice was likely to be most respected. Unfortu-
lely we never caught our criminal ; but the matter
S a good deal discussed, and perhaps it is not strange
It it was the last case of wilful obstruction of the
Iway for a long time ; so that though no one was
;ht to justice, it would seem that the public con-
EDce was stimulated.

Of accomplished crimes during our own time
haps the most remarkable and practically useless
s the assassination of the Home Minister Okubo, in

214 EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN.

the Spring of 1878, by some young men from the countr
Their objection, as formulated by themselves, to tl
continued existence of the minister, was that he did m
appear to them to be wise in his administrative acts.
They salHed out from their lodging, lay in wait for the
minister's carriage on the road to the office of the
Council of State about nine o'clock in the morning,
stopped its progress by hamstringing the horses, and
cut down the coachman, as a preliminary to murdering
the minister when he stepped into the road to confront
them. When they had accomplished their aim, they
went on to the office where their victim was expected,
and told what they had done ; expressing at the same
time their regret at having killed the coachman, whicli
was only, they said, because they didn't know what
else to do with him. They were secured without makis^
any resistance, and ultimately executed.

The remains of the murdered men were folloi»^«l
to the grave by a large carh'ge, including the foreign
ministers and consuls ; and the display of pomp aid I
grief was unaffectedly imposing. The coachman w^s I
buried hard by his master, in whose service he had livd |
his life.

It was said at the time, and I believe it to be trU^i:
that many persons of high rank and station in Japan a^*-
now driven about the streets in their carriages by m^*^
of a class far higher, according to native social ide^-^
than that usually supposed to supply domestic officis*^
of this kind ; and retainers who would formerly ha-'*'^
. been recognized as contributing to the dignity of th^~
■ijords more by their presence than their actual scrvic^^^

toKiyo.

content to exercise their skill and nerve, and
irdianship, in a calling ostensibly humble, bat in no
By exclusive of their self respect

As one result of this assassination, every little com-
missioner or official in the government service in Tokiyo
fclt himself of sufficient importance to warrant his look-
ing carefully round all the corners, as he walked about,
in case some bumpkins should have come from the ends
rfthe land to put an end to him ; but they were ai!
jdcasantly disappointed, and, on the whole, the mere
disclosure of the circumstances of the crime obviated
political excitement.

As a reasonable matter of precaution, however, all
the Ministers of State were provided thenceforth with
Kcorts of mounted police, when they stirred abroad, and
permanent guards to their residences ; probably to the
wtreme discomfort and annoyance of some of them,
*ho tried again and .igain to induce their colleagues to
dispense with this encumbrance. The story of the
popular general who was endowed with a piper, by
Order of the Senate, and who found that functionary's
faithful discharge of his duties such a nuisance when
it was not desirable to attract the observation of the
people to his whereabouts, might perhaps be paralleled
^ysome adventures of Japanese Ministers in search of
* little relaxation from the cares of office, who found it
difficult to give their faithful escort the slip ; but this
taay be only scandal.

Our Minister of Public Works, Ito Hirobumi, was
appointed to succeed Okubo at the Home Office ; and for
^ time Inouye Kaworu took his place, until called to

2l6

EIGIfT YEARS IN JAPAN.

occupy the more important post of Foreign Minii
which at this time of writing he still worthily fills.

We railway men were gladdened in the spring of
year 1878, by the news that a small extension of the
railway system had been authorized. True, it was only
about ten miles ; but it represented a departure from
the absolute quiescence entered upon a twelvemonth
before.

Our Chief Commissioner, who though nominally
holding the post of " third man " in the Department of
Public Works, carefully eschewed all work not connected
with his special branch, was for some two months in the
capital making arrangements for this work, which indeed
would have been earlier proceeded with had his previous
exertions towards the same end been crowned with
success. His frequent representations, and untiring
efforts to give them a practical bearing, at last bore fruit
in a sort of understanding that, though no extensive
undertakings could be entered upon for some time to
come, still a small amount of work might be kept in
progress ; as without some field for action there was
great risk of losing the benefit he had made such great
personal exertions to foster in his department — that
was, the maintenance of an efficient staff of Japanese
engineers and administrative officials qualified to under-
take the construction and working of railways.

With this view even a small yearly extension of the
railway system was of inestimable value, as a means
of exercising and improving the Japanese staff, and
keeping up the interest of practical work, without which
the best and most active-minded of the staff could

TOKIVO.

217

lly be retained in the department. The new piece,
nail as it was in extent, would afford the required
;ld for the acquisition of additional experience, and
tercise of ingenuity in dealing with new classes of
pork, including as it did a tunnel through the range
hilis bordering Lake Biwa on the south-western side,
^nd a series of heavy inclines, the working of which
irould be an introduction to the conditions attending
■ny future extensions in the more hilly parts of the
country. So that when the Chief Commissioner re-
turned to Osaka with his official authorization in his
pocket, and with the necessary financial preliminaries
Kttled, a gleam of sunshine seemed to fall upon the
n^lccted department, that might be the herald of a
tetter time than had latterly been experienced.

Though I was not myself in any way directly
interested in the new work, there was more than a little
satisftction in the thought of its practical influence upon
the fortunes of the staff I had been connected with for
the first four years of my service. Thomas the elder,
who had originally surveyed this portion of the projected
railways, and the other Tom, my old friend, were there
'0 second the designs of the Chief Commissioner, and
guide the technical part of the business to a satisfactory
conclusion.

Meantime I had my own work — quite as much as,
'"th my limited and still diminishing staff, could be
Wrried on with safety — to attend to ; and current doings
Tokiyo to amuse my hours of relaxation. Just about
f**S time many foreign residents in Tokiyo were a little
•"ried by the police, the local authorities having been

2l8 EIGHT YEARS JN JAPAN.

roused by the Home Office to make an effort on behalf
of interests connected with the foreign settlement a'
Tsukiji. This place, set apart in accordance will
treaty, as a place of residence for the foreign commuiuly
as such, where they might rightfully acquire land and
enjoy the privilege, if they desired it, of a municipal
government of their own, — had never been exactly *
success.

As a commercial port, Tokiyo was of no value U
foreigners, having no convenient harbour, the nearest
roadstead being five miles away, outside the forts of
Shinagawa ; and though a custom house, bonded war^
houses, etc., had been started at Tsiikiji, very little had
been made of them owing to the superior convenience of
Yokohama, less than twenty miles away, and connected
by rail and water. With the exception of the American
legation, one mercantile establishment, and a miserable
hotel, the only buildings in Tsukiji concession were th*
residences, schools, or churches of the foreign mission-
aries : the residences being extremely comfortable, and
the schools and churches (always excepting those undw
the Catholic missionaries) being a set of mean littlf
conventicles, all with a family likeness to the uppf
part of a toy Noah's ark, suggesting the idea that any
person a very little over the ordinary stature might if he
liked open the roof on one side and take out the parson!
to play with.

An amusing law-suit had been tried in the America!
consular court, the defendant, an owner of lots in tb
concession, declining to pay his ground rents, on the pli
that the Japanese government had, by allowing foreigno

TOKIYO. 219

blivc outside the concession, virtually deprived him of
I part of the consideration he expected to receive in
etum for the ground rents ; and though I don't think
contention was found to hold water, the local govern-
nt did, in 1878, make an effort to sweep into the
Bcession all outlying foreigners not having official
i^ences, The move had but small success, but gave
to a great deal of dodging between the transgressors
the police. Of course civil servants of the govern-
it were not interfered with, but the few merchants
bo had settled themselves in outlying places after
ne one or other of the great fires that usually finished
in the concession, or the unaccountable small fry of
ipecunious waifs and strays that skulked about the
otal and picked up a living heaven only knows how,
te subjected to considerable inconvenience. One man
know of hit upon the expedient, which was for a time
Iccessful, of getting a police officer to reside rent free
a corner of his house; others induced their Japanese
ends to hire them, ostensibly as clerks or teachers, and
fittle interest with a fourth or fourteenth class official
it a great way. But such as Tsijkiji was, such it
Bains to this day, except that the missionaries have
liied the most eligible of the vacant lots as lawn-
mis grounds.

One of the ofticial events of this year was the
lauguration," as it was called, of the Engineering
rflege, an institution that had been in full swing for
eral years and had lately been somewhat reduced in
scope; but for some reason or other the personal
nrestof the Mikado had never been practically evinced.

220 EIGHT YEARS IN ^APAU.

So a solemn function was contrived, and general misery
inflicted upon a number of persons, august, exalted,
eminent, excellent, commonplace, or otherwise. Being
an officer of the department to which the college was
attached, I was invited to attend, in a white tie and
swallow-tail, at S a.m., and share the monarch's sufferings
till noon.

First there were the usual addresses ; then a per-
ambulatory inspection of the establishment ; then five
lectures by students, in which his Imperial Majesty
was reported to be uncommonly interested — though it
appeared to me that he looked around for a deliverer
with an anxiety that in any ordinary person would have
been almost comical. All the princes and the corps
diplomatique were present. The group of professors, all
in their caps and gowns, or at any rate in gowns
borrowed from the Yokohama lawyers, was veiy
picturesque. We had a good scrambling tiffin after-
wards, and I was able to resume the jacket of civilized
life about one o'clock, with a song of thanksgiving.

This Engineering College, with its substantial
buildings, noble central hall, lecture rooms, and labora-
tories, has always been and is still a source of envy on
the part of the Tokiyo Daigakko, or University, which
includes engineering and the branches of mining, metal-
lui^, chemistry, telegraphy, as within its scope ; but has
to put up with a lot of ricketty wooden shanties, crammed
together in a corner, for its accommodation. A good
deal has no doubt been done by these two institutions,
the results of which maybe yet seen in the industrial
progress of the country ; but if one asks in japan to be

I a Japanese-bred engineer, it is ten to one the
ximen produced has never seen the walls of either.
I The best students of the Tokiyo Engineering College
e been sent, after obtaining the degree of Master in
jineering, to Glasgow to start again with a fresh
hication there. When they have done with Glasgow
they will probably return to their native land and
become professors in the college they started from, and
the production of engineers will come in a later genera-
tion; or the second flight of passed pupils maybe driven
by stress of circumstances to qualify for that less showy
calling.

It is characteristic of the Japanese that they pay so
luch attention to things done by their teachers, rather
Ian to the things antecedent, that a Japanese student
ccomes an imitation of his teacher, so far as lies in his
ewer. It is a natural result that the pupil of professors
(Hids to become a professor, while the pupil of executive
Oigineers tends to become an executive engineer. The
one develops into a mathematician, a chemist, or a
0iysical experimenter; the other into a calculator, a
Banufacturer, or a responsible director of works, It is
■8 old controversy, that as to the comparative value of
tteoretical and practical instruction ; and it cannot be
denied that cither term, if used as limiting the character
« the instruction, may involve more than a suggestion
■Serious deficiency. The ridiculous pretensions of some
I^Qrant men who call themselves " practical," as if it
fpreto their credit to be without any theoretical com-
*nd of principle, have tended to obscure the real value
experience in the conduct of special operations that

223 EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAtT.

repeat themselves, in slightly different forms, througho»j|
the whole domain of applied mechanics ; and, on ttic
other hand, clever scholars who could sit down at any;
moment and write you off a chapter from Rankine arci
sometimes amusingly non-plussed at finding that, for aj/ f
practical purposes, the theorems they have studied ma/ f
be reduced to a few words bearing a strong resemblance I
to the ancient doctrines that two and two make four,
and that every top must have a bottom ; stated in tenni j
specially applicable but with comprehensive significaDCtt J
So far as we in the Railway Department had the oppo
tunity of observing the work done, in producing n
io concrete form, by past pupils of the Enginec
College, it may be said that there is promise of a Ml
justification of the pains taken by their teachers, to b
hereafter shown by the practical usefulness of I
taught ; and [that the cadets who have been actuaQj
educated upon work in progress will have to prodno
the result of private theoretical study in order to c
pete with them. So far as my observation, which li
extended now over a sufficient period and field to enai
me to state conclusions with some confidence, has li
me to a knowledge of men and of work, this i;
what we see everywhere producing in the aggregate l)
happiest results. The real value of the sludie
the pupils of the Engineering College have been Intn
duced during their six years' course, will probabl'
appear in due time ; it would be premature to expel
academical triumphs to be immediately continued in tl
field of actual work.

( 223 )

CHAPTER X.

TRIP TO FUJISAN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD {1878).

B effect of living within view of Fujisan was of course
srouse a desire to get to the top of that conspicuous

»cki it is so aggravating to see anything high that
haven't reached the top of. So at last I could bear it
longer, and set out with a friend, who knew the way
I nndertook to manage the expedition, for a walk over
thill.

We started on a Sunday morning — but for some
(take about the passports we should have been off on
[urday — in a two-horse waggon for Hachoji, about

ty-five miles from Tokiyo, up the valley of the

nigo river, or, to give it a better known native
;iellation, the Tamagawa, so called from a " kori," or
ision of a province, usually translated "county," in
ich its head waters were situated. We rolled along
the rate of about six miles an hour, with occasional

ractions in the shape of a walk up or down a steep
Ch on the road, or a precipitate exodus from the
, when the wheels went through a bridge. We
i or didn't change horses — 1 forget which, but
yhow there was a row about it, which my companion

224 BIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN.

attended to, as being specially within his province—
Fuchiu, a considerable town about two-thirds of the m
to Hachoji, and situated on the left bank of the river,
the latter place is on the right. Barring the abominal
heat of the August day, we had nothing to note, except
some unaccountable soldiers idling about apparently
in full marching order, in the open country, as to tlu
meaning of which we ventured upon many conjecture^
that subsequently proved wrong, every one of them
At Hachoji we had a late lunch in the top story of a'
tea-house, the lower floors of which accommodated at
the same time about four hundred pilgrims, on thdr
return from Fujisan.

From Hachoji we went on a few miles in jinrikishas
towards the hills, and arriving at the foot of these began
skirmishing for a pack-horse to carry our traps, and after
much scheming to save a few cents, succeeded in getting
one, and started over the pass about five o'clock, in
drizzling rain ; which increased as we ascended. This is
called the Kobotok^ pass (why, I don't know, — as I was
grumpy at the time, I didn't care to inquire, — it was a
pass, and out of place, I thought, at five o'clock in the
afternoon), and leads across the ridge separating the
valley of the Tama from that of the Banyu. The climb
was a short one, but justified a rest at the tea-houses on
the summit, and the descent was a long and steep one,
and took us into darkness in the valley, before we reached
Obara, a poor village near the river, The question being
as 1 thought quite unnecessarily raised whether we should
stop here or go on, I gave my voice unhesitatingly for
stopping, and wc secured a room in a tea-house. Here

TRIP TO FUyiSAN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. 225

were more pilgrims, for fifteen hundred had just arrived
from the mountain, and we had great difficulty in keeping
ihem off our mats. Of course in the hot weather no one
thought of keeping up the partitions between the various
noms, so that there could be no privacy ; but we had
goodrcasons for avoiding propinquity — it was bad enough
to sit on the same mats as last night's batch of pilgrims.
They couldn't hurt the water though, and we managed

jl decent bath; and I suppose fleas don't like strong

:o, for I was unmolested and slept well, while my
er companion was tapped all over and had no rest
As on our first day out we had only covered a portion
the ground we had hoped to traverse, we started bc-
Ms next morning, with only a cup of chocolate for
estkfast — another mistake according to the tenets of
E of the party — and walked, through constant rain,
'about twenty miles over muddy roads up and down
I, crossing the river Banyu twice by ferry, and ascend-
I again to the villages on the heights above. We had
ittle " chow " at Uyenohara, a large and apparently
Bperous village, and observed the silk-buyers cheating
[country people gaily, it being market day.
We were now in the Yamanashi prefecture, one of
' most go-ahead districts of modern Japan, both in
Dufactures and agriculture; not to say general educa-
) and the imposing nature of its public buildings, each
lliich is surmounted by a sort of wooden pepper-box
liuildings are of various patterns, but the pepper-boxes
all alike. The roads in this district are wide and
1 graded, which is a surprise to any one approach-
from Tokiyo, for the intermediate track is a mere
Q

326

EIGHT YEARS IN "JAPAN.

bridle-path in most places, beyond Hachoji, almost
impracticable Tor wheels. This was in \ S78, be it always
remembered ; things may be very different now. especially
as the Mikado has since journeyed this way.

The clayey soil, however, and insufficient metalling,
make the roads horrible in wet weather ; and it was
nearly three o'clock when we reached Sarubashi (monkq'-
bridge), which we had fondly hoped at starting to make
our first evening's resting-place. The proper name ii
Yayen-bashi ; but the bridge is so lofty and (for native
construction) of so large a span that by common consent
the former name has been generally adopted. Here the
river flows through a narrow gap in the rocks, not more
than thirty feet wide at the bottom ; but the bridge high
up above the water has a span of over a hundred feet
and is supported on projecting beams sunk deep into the
rock on either side in tiers, three or four of which step
out over the chasm so as to reduce the gap between thcK
ends, spanned by the main beams under the roadway, to
one-third of the length of the bridge. This bold and
picturesque structure is already showing signs of failun*
and will have to be renewed in a few years.

We arrived wet through and exhausted, and findiogE
comfortable quarters hard by the bridge, put up thefl
and with the hot bath, that God-send to travellers, soo
made ourselves into contented beings again. All th
rest of the day and all night it rained in torrents; s
we stopped where we were, thus losing a whole day ot
of our calculated progress.

Next morning we started again in jinrikishas ft
Yoshida, at the foot of Fujisan on the nort

TRIP TO FUyiSA.V AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. 227

iving the road wc had been so far traversing (to wit,
tire Koshiu-kaido, leading to Kofu, the chief town of
Bie prefecture of Yamanashi, and beyond to Suwa on the
Naka-sen-do), about four miles from Sarubashi, and
Striking into a gorge to the southward, going still up the
water. As the ground rose between the hills. Uie valley
opened out upon the gentle slopes of old lava that form
the base of the big mountain. There was some pretty
aeenery on the road, notably a double waterfall, like a
little Niagara, about forty feet high only. Yoshida,
which we reached about one o'clock, is surrounded by a
beautiful stretch of open country, overgrown with grass
ind timber; but it is a poor sort of a village. We
lodged at a sort of temple, where the people did not
much like to take us in ; but by calmly and politely
assuming a dense stupidity, and taking possession of
the best apartment, we solved the difficulty, and the
people naturally fell back upon the arts of swindling as
1 consolation.

I am not one of those who object very much to a
little mild swindling, especially as the native pilgrims
are as much victimized as the foreigners ; and, therefore,
enjoyed listening, without any responsibility, to my
astute companion's efforts to evade and reduce the
demands of the proprietors of the lodging and of the
guides to the hill. Diplomacy, not to say misrepre-
sentation, threats of returning home without attempting
Hie hill, appeals to the police, and other artifices, were
freely employed ; and, at last, my friend A per-
fected the necessary arrangements for ascending the
"^i next day; and wc delivered our weary bodies to

228 EIGHT YEARS 7JV JAPAN.

the fleas. I awoke frequently during the night, and
counted eight hundred and seventy-two fleas browsing
upon me ; but I only chuckled, as I thought of the five
thousand three hundred and forty-nine that I knew werS
in the bedding I had rolled up and left in the comer,
and couldn't get at me.

Foreigners do not often ascend the mountain from
this side, the north, it being rather out of the way from
the open ports, but A— had been up before by the
usual route, and had heard that this was easier — I dont
say it wasn't, but next time I will go another way, toa

On the Wednesday morning we sent the bulk of^
our baggage by horse to Gotemba, on the east side of !
the mountain, towards which we proposed to descend, '
hoping to reach it the same night. We took with us, ,
however, rugs and coats, and a supply of food sufficient
to sustain us, if detained on the top by storm or
unforeseen accident ; and started forth from Yoshida
by"kago" to a little place at the foot of the actual
ascent, the first three ri (seven miles and a half) being
across the " hara," or wide slopes of lava covered with
luxurious vegetation. It was, of course, raining heavily,
so we stopped for nearly an hour at Uma-ga-ishi or
-yeshi— I decline to pledge myself to the etymology.

At the first sign of cessation, however, we set off,
with our two guides following, for the path was plain .
enough, up through the forest that clothes the lower"
slopes of the actual cone. Every few hundred feet up,,
we found a temple, or tea-house, or shanty of some kind
to rest in. There are supposed to be ten of thenu
altogether, but the craft of the guides has so disposedl

TRIP TO FUJISAN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD.

229

klbem that after passing, say three, and naturally sup-

osing that you arc getting on, you find an extra long

■ rtage, and the next isn't number four — oh dear, no ! it

r is number three with a difference, — and when you do

I reach number four, the fact is not obtruded upon you

that you haven't yet climbed anything like a quarter of

the way : so you go on, always calculating from what

you think you know that you have much less before you

than is really the case. It was nine o'clock when we

commenced the ascent, and by eleven we reached the

upper limit of the trees, and encountered the slope of

bare ashes, scoria:, and rocks, that forms the rest of the

I way.

Travelling over this was very painful and slow, and

:n-clouds surrounded us nearly the whole time, so

lial we had only a glimpse or two of the lower world

» relieve the monotony. There was no water to be

d above the fourth station, as the pilgrim season was

ta its last legs, and most of the upper rest-houses were

; so we struggled on gloomily, reaching the lip of

I the crater at half-past four, and rewarding ourselves with

I i bottle of champagne. There was no view to be had,

aid there is nothing interesting in a degraded crater

I that has been quiescent for over two hundred years ; so,

I ifler climbing to the highest point, 12,365 feet above the

sea. we started down again at five o'clock, much later

' than we had hoped to make it.

The ascent, though fatiguing, was not nearly so
punishing as I had expected ; and though it was
extremely cold at the summit, where the snow lay about
in patches, I felt none of the nausea or difficulty in

230 EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN.

breathing that people generally talk about. But the

descent was the very . Just as I had found to be

the case on Asamayama, the practice appears to be to
plunge straight down the slope of soft ashes, and keep
on down as fast as your nerve will serve you, and as
tinously as the accumulation of ashes in your boots will
allow. Cunningly as you may contrive arrangements to
keep them out, it is only a question of a few yards mort
or less until you have to pull up and eject them. As to
the boots, I had heard dreadful tales of their destruction
on this descent, where the usual thing is to put OD
straw sandals over the soles to save them ; but I am
happy to say that a good honest pair of heavy shooting
boots, properly dressed the previous night, ser\-ed me
well, and were almost as good after as before.

However, though the boots held out, the legs didn't;
but after plunging down a slope of loose ashes, at an
average inclination to the horizon of nearly thirty degree^
for the distance to the trees, a drop of some five tbousand .
feet, I had to pull up quite exhausted. It was fallii^
dark, and 1 abandoned all hope of reaching the bottom
of the hill upon my own legs. My companion, a man of
lighter build, could have done it, I believe ; but he waited
for me, and we struggled down through the trees, by*i
path that would have necessitated some care in broad.
daylight and with good legs. This Just about put
the finishing touch to the proceeding, and on reacbii^
what we thought was the third station from the bottom,
by the aid of a lantern in which was burnt the only
candle end we were provided with, I brought matters to
a climax by finally taking off my boots, WTRppin^

TRIP TO FUJISAN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. 231

iclf Up in a rug, and going to sleep upon some
planlcs then and there.

A , who was enviably fresh and jolly, though he

had been unwell all day, contrived to mix some chocolate,
and woke me up to consume it ; and with the addition
of some compressed beef, we made a meai, and I went
to sleep again. By dawn we were on our legs — but for
their being my only ones, I would have sold mine cheap
—and we reached the foot of the path at six o'clock,
the village of Subashiri in another hour, and after a rest
and breakfast, recovered our baggage at Gotemba before
eleven. Here we got a delicious cold bath, and considered
the mountain "done"— I confess I used very much
stronger expressions about the mountain. No one shall
be able to say that I recommended to them the ascent
<rf that disgusting mass of humbug' and ashes. I believe
it always rains on Fujisan. The people who maintain
that they saw anything on or from the top of it are
people 1 should like to have as witnesses against me, if
I were tried for my life, rather than for mc. The man
*ho goes up once may be excused, if in other matters
he is an average fool, so that you don't expect much
ftnm him ; the man who goes up twice should be put
Out of the world immediately he arrives at the bottom
«gwn ; and the man who wilt induce his confiding friend
b> accompany him up, on any pretext or understanding,
is own brother to Judas Iscariot. I humbly thank
heaven that I am yet young enough to look fon,vard to
the perpetration of many follies in days to come ; but
if ever I commit a second time the folly of wasting a
r and five pounds of even too solid flesh upon any

errand to the top of Fujisan, I consent to be a decoroi^
dullard for ever after.

As the season for ascending the hill was practically
over in these last days of August, we met very few
companions in lunacy. About half-way up we en-
countered a party of about a dozen smiling and perspiring
Japanese, who greeted us politely and volunteered the
information that they had slept two nights at Gog*
(you wouldn't think it perhaps, but that means the fifth
station), visiting the summit in the intervening day. Ol
the way down we passed three foreigners going up ; anfl
another afterwards, accompanied by his wife and diilt
of twelve, all intending to sleep at Hachigo (theei^
station), which was to be specially re-opened for thesi
There were also a couple of young Japanese wandering
about, but whether ascending or descending I doiiLi
know. They all know better now, I don't doubt.

There being nothing to keep us at Gotemba, «e
made a struggle for Halion^ a place well known W
foreigners as a convenient sanatorium in the hot weatheti
being up in the hills some two thousand feet above th^
sea. and always cool at night, as it is at the south cti<
of a lake that seems somehow to invite a draught troO

the cooler layers of the atmosphere. A walked

but I took a "kago," to get over the pass, rather a \u^
one, at least on the Gotemba side. Ultimately I hai
to walk myself, as the kago-bearers were overtaxed b(
my weight, and made such slow progress that I shoul
have been benighted on the hills again had I oc
resumed my legs ; as it was. the last three miles, include
the wading of a small river, had to be performed i

TRIP TO FUyiSAN AUD NEIGHBOUR HOOD. 233

rkness, the coolies going in front and feeling their
ly, I followin;^ a piece of paper pinned on the back
the one inimedialely before me as a guide ; and so we

ached the end of Hakond lake, where A on his

rival before us had secured a boat, which took us
jwn the lake and landed us at Hakone about half-past
be

Blessed be the name of Hakon^ ! for here I found
Rf, my dealings with which, at the exorbitant price

' sixty cents a bottle, scandalized poor A horribly,

t had been trying to do hard work upon thin claret,
I which I attributed in secret my breakdo(vn, and the
action was startling. Poached eggs and a pipe had
Dthing incongruous about them after this, and we slept
te two men. In the morning we had a plunge and
rim in the lake, most refreshing and delightful in the
inrise ; and we barely refrained from hauling in the

idant maiden who held our towels and slippers,
be was so dirty, though otherwise no doubt all that
tea-house maiden should be. We noted in the visitors'
Dok her peculiarities, with a suggestion that in wet

ins (as this was) she and others like her might be

lowed to wash if possible not less often than once

rery other day. In dry seasons the lake would perhaps

ive become discoloured, as it is only about five miles

Bg by two broad, and, except in one place, can be

Dved to have a limited depth. Two years later I

^gain saw this maiden, and then discovered that she

»quinted,a fact which on my first visit altogether escaped

my notice.

My poor old limbs were still aching to such an

234 EIGHT YEARS JN JAPAlf.

extent from my labours of the previous two days, that
I actually took pride in achieving the stagger up-Hill to
Ashinoyu, a place where natural baths of hot sulphur-
etted water are to be had, for the benefit of various
ailments. It is not a nice place, though after a little
time one becomes accustomed to the abominable smell
that pervades it. It is some three or four hundred feet
above the lake, separated therefrom by a high hill, out
of the flank of which the springs issue, still higher up
There are many other places scattered over this district
where natural hot baths, impregnated with a variety of
solutions more or less offensive and medicinal, are sought
by Japanese and foreigners alike ; and even healtliy
visitors to Hakond in the summer use the Ashinoyii
baths with advantage, because of the walk over and
back in the early morning, which to the jaded townsman
does more good than the most inappropriate baths can
counteract

From Ashinoyu to Mtyanoshlti is about four miles,
all down-hill by a path that in places is very rough and
steep, but in any decent kind of weather is enjoyable on
account of the bracing air and the varying scenery.
Mfyanoshltd lies on the side of a narrow gorge, and »
a straggling up and down place, with two good hi
We reached it in time for tiffin, raising the number
foreigners at the Fuji-ya hotel to thirty, whereof twei
four were missionaries or their belongings, enjoying
good time, with the help of children's pocket-money
the contributions of the ignorant.

After tiffin, we trudged down the gorge to YumotOi
through a misty and almost stifling atmosphere, quite

TRIP TO FUyjSAN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. 235

lifferent to that of the hills above ; but all along the road
:re fountains of the purest water, sparkling and bright,
n the best of beer cannot compete as a beverage with
exhilarating product of nature, in the use of which,
iwjwever, moderation is to be commended, as it unques-
tionably requires no small amount of self-control. We
:d through Tonosawa, near the mouth of the gorge,
which one can travel from the settlements by jinri-
This is a little collection of tea-houses and shops
the sale of fancy ware, such as at home we think of,
used to, in connection with Tunbridge Wells. It lies
nook under hill-sides so high and steep that it is
ys cool, for the sun does not touch it for above a
tple of hours in the longest day, and mosquitoes are
!«lmost unknown there. During July and the early part
*f August, however, the " buyo," a tiny fly, is di.sagrccably
:|*evalent, its bite or suction producing more lasting
•nitation than that of the mosquito.

A very little further, and we came to Yumoto — the

^gina! hot water— a favourite name for hot springs all

Over the land. Here, again, it is generally warm weather,

and we found it necessary for our comfort to lie down

'bfhalf an hour in the river, on the softest boulders we

tould find in a convenient place to support our heads

*bove the rushing water. This prepared us for a good

Japanese supper, which was to my taste far superior to

the tiffin in foreign style we had at Mfyanoshlti. The

*onr and salt and bitter and pungent relishes by the aid

^ which the insipid rice is coaxed down the throat, are,

\n.^ a little practice in their use, found to be truly

tleJectable ; but the sweets are disagreeable and mawkish.

EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAH.

We were amused by the anxiety of the hotel peoj
that we should close our shutters at night, a coui
repugnant to our feelings, as we desired to breathe fre
air even while sleeping; but the good people are ve
much afraid of thieves entering by any insecure
unfastened shutter, owing to the disagreeable practii
these worthies have of resorting to the use of the swoi
if disturbed at their work. The hotel-keeper, of couis
did not say this — which would have been too true— bi
tried to frighten us with stories of " tengu," a sort (
vampire that resides in woods, and has the bad taste I
make no distinction between the blood of foreigners an
that of the native victims to his greed. As to our bciii
upstairs, that confers no safety at all in a country whffl
"bak^mono," with necks that can be elongated to an
extent, may be met with at any comer, though they n
generally supposed to live at the bottom of a well,!
that one seldom sees exactly what kind of a body
is that nourishes such a wonderfully long guUet, or
nourished by means of that same. These are dreadf
bogies, however, and capable of thrilling the nerves
old and young by their expected appearance. W
passed the night uneasily by reason of having on
Japanese pillows to rest our weary heads upon.

We reached Yokohama next day, after a wcarisot
ride along sandy roads, about half-past three, and
returned to Tokiyo by the five o'clock train, exciting t
pity of the populace as I limped along the platfor
In fact, unless one keeps generally in pretty go
walking trim, a week of severe exertion is too much
comfort and not enough for improvement. If I had g<

TRTP TO FUyiSAN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. 237

T afield, I dare say I should have returned as I did
b 1877, sound as a bell and gay as a lark. As it was, at
this time I had to draw such satisfaction as was possible
from the reflection that I had " been there," when I
looked at Fuji, in the distance ; at a cost of about three
pounds ten In cash. It is an undoubted fact that in
Japan you can travel all over the country for less money
than you can live comfortably upon at any one spot ;
partly because you don't expect comfort when travelling,
and partly because sleep, the traveller's chief recreation,
is not chargeable by even the most accomplished ex-
tortionists. But there is a ghastly monotony about the
proceeding that prevents one economizing for any great
length of time in this way.

Whea at Mi'yanoshiti we had a sight of the papers,
Md learnt from them that the row of the Friday night
before we started, of which I heard a rumour in Tokiyo,
ifas really a mutiny of the Artillery of the Guard,
quartered at the Takebashi barracks, not far from the
palace and the legations, that might have been a very
; serious matter for the occupants of those places. The
men had a grievance in connection with the distribution
of rewards for services during the preceding year, so
they rose against their officers and killed a few of them,
and tried to reach the palace "to present a petition,"
according to the usual formula. They were, however,
met by a body of troops well in hand, and polished ofT
in a workmanlike manner, some of the ringleaders justi-
fying themselves by committing suicide in conventional
feshion as soon as they found the game was up.
lother regiment that would have joined the rising had

238

EIGHT YEARS IN yAPAN.

been marched out of Tokiyo the day before under sufE-
cient guard to ensure their good behaviour or prompt
destruction ; but many of the men had contrived to
desert, and these were, I think, the gentry wc noticed
about the country on our first morning's journey.

The affair did not prevent the Mikado setting out
his tour for a couple of months in the north-westertt'
provinces, after formally acknowledging as heir pre-
sumptive a young cousin, son of Arisugawa-no-Miya,
his uncle, who bears the title of Nihon ShinnS, or next
of kin to the sovereign of Japan. This was in conse-
quence of the death of the Mikado's only surviving
child ; but there has been other direct offspring since
that time, of legitimate status according to the custom
of Japan.

{ 239 )

CHAPTER Xr.

TOKIVO (1878-g).

I KAD barely recovered from the fatigues of my pleasure
excursion to Fuj'isan and the parts adjacent, and hunted
the last Yoshida flea from my personal vicinity, when
the even tenor of my professional existence, usually
disturbed only by people who were not too busy with
their work to find time to quarrel amongst themselves.
was upset by the break of the season, which this year
took a particularly disagreable form. The first welcome
rains of September (not to be confounded by any means
with the unwelcome and unseasonable rains of August)
rather overstayed their usual period, and just as we
thought the country nicely refreshed, with perhaps too
free a downpour, we had a furious couple of days that
produced destructive floods over nearly the whole of
the land.

I was just awaking one morning, when the Shimbashi
station-master sent over to my house a telegram from
his colleague half-way to Yokohama, to the effect that
water was passing over the rails at that point, and the
ballast was being washed away— and the Shimbashi
official wanted to know if he should despatch the first

240 EIGHT YEARS IN JAFAK.

train as usual. Of course I couldn't tell him not to do
so, but I could go and see what was die actual state
of things not a do7,en miles away ; so with a crust in
my hand and a pocketful of cigars, I joined the drii
just as he was starting with the train, and off we went
into a very nasty looking morning. After passing the
first two stations we came upon what was known as
the " long straight," a piece of line extending across the
low ground, from the bluffs of Oraori nearly to the bank
of the big river. Here we saw water before us, evidently
a strong flow across the line, at a spot quite distinct
from that mentioned in the telegram of that morning;
but we pushed on till the road began to feel shaky,
when I jumped down and walked along the line a little
ahead of the train, soon perceiving that the water wU
rising and that the rush was so strong as to undermine
the sleepers. So the train was backed, not a minute too
soon, for there was an ugly lurch or two and a
expenditure of steam before the engine succeeded
pushing back its load to a slightly higher level, and
its going on was clearly out of the question, I sent
train back to Tokiyo to await orders, and set the ei
free for special service ; and pushed on along the
Progress on foot I soon found difficult, for the rails
well covered, and there was a strong cross flow;
by feeling with the point of my stick along the rail
it hit a chair, and then stepping on to tlie sleeper tbi
of course was underneath it, I managed to progress st«
by step for about a mile, in something more than I.
hour, till some of the platelayers, who were busy stackil
up the sleepers of the unfinished second line so

TOKtYO. 241

it their being washed away, understood my calls
br a trolly, and brought one down to meet me, after
which progress on wheels was easy till we got across the
er on to the incline leading up to the river bridge,
im some farmers, who reached land in tubs at the
He time, I learnt that the banks had given way in
neral places, and that they had thought a strategic
uvement from out their threatened houses advisable,
also recognized a sluice-door, out of place by a good
f-milc, and began to wonder rather at the small
ount of the water; but I "doubled" up the incline
rards the bridge, and there was the river, in a phase
V to my experience here, though reminding me of
flier Katsura in angry mood. Two thousand feet wide
water, raging brown and white, tumbling through the
idge at express speed, with a roar that produced a
rious cold sensation about the spinal cord of one
The flood had, however, slightly fallen already,
nibably owing to the breaking of the banks here and
re.

Thankful that the old rattle-trap trestle-work I once
xv had been done away with in time, I passed over
(he bridge of good solid masonry and iron, and found
on the far, side that there was pretty nearly as much
•ster outside the bank as in ; Kawasaki station, half
mile away, was well submerged, and a man on the
'fiatform was up to his thighs in water. Our buildings
'* the river bank, Theodore's bungalow, the shops and
.Workmen's quarters were all high and dry ; but here
there in low places the flood was coming over the
iks, and about fifty yards below the bridge, where

242

EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN.

a large outfall sluice had stood, there was a horrid |
through which the water had poured out upon the pi
and the village.

As the staff just then available on the spot was
sufficient to undertake any remedial measures, consist
as it did of two English foremen. Theodore's cook, {
myself, I promptly decided upon breakfasting, •
made a highly successful raid upon the provisions in
bungalow. Then I lit a cigar, and sat on a rail obsenr
the water.

I had always been sceptical as to a certain height
flood marked on our sections, partly because it ^
above the highest part of the banks, which, again, w
the highest ground within three miles of the spot ; a
partly because it could not be doubted that the high
water-mark would be in the centre of the stream, a
I didn't believe any one was there to mark it upon
obstacle, if such a thing there could be in such a at
tion. But now on actually seeing, by the aid of
bridge piers, that the water in the centre of the di
channel was at least eighteen inches higher than it 1
at the banks; and reflecting that it was now low ws
in the sea less than five miles away, and that at b
water the difference of slope in the river would tsx.
the velocity less, and the centre not so high above
sides ; and that the highest flood might actually coin(
with the lowest velocity at this point ; I could sec 1
this great elevation of flood might accordingly have b
noted on the bank itself or some post thereupon ;
owing to the patchwork way in which the mainten;
of the banks by the farmers was attended to, a consi

TOKIYO.

243

able rush over the crest of the bank in low places was
not at all unlikely. One of the foremen told me that
the greatest height below bridge on this occasion was
early in the darkness of the morning, before the big gap
beside his house had suddenly opened, and flooded the
country southwards ; the water rising above the level
i the rails at Kawasaki station had passed inland
lowards the hills, and been the cause of the telegram
^m the station-master.

As our good luck would have it, we were in a capital
wsition for repairing damages, as soon as we could
eally get to work, having large heaps of ballast ready
Dr shifting at one end of the bridge, and at two points
earer to Tokiyo ; so I set about contriving a raft to take
e across to the station that I might telegraph instruc-
Mis. However, just then I saw the smoke of an engine
I the distance on the Yokohama side of the flood ; and
rith the aid of a binocular made out some people
lunching a boat from the bank where it stopped, so
'waited for them. They turned out to be the truant
fheodore, absent on convivial duty, with the traffic
lanager, and our Tokiyo doctor, who was bound for
Ome and thought his best chance was to stick to the
ulway men. Almost at the same time arrived our
wnese officials from Tokiyo, who had come down by
p'ne as far as they could, and then struggled through
; flood pretty much as I had done, bringing with
an a strong gang of men from the upper ground ;
\ that we got to work at once, first to make good with
ikes and fascines a few weak spots in the embankment,
d then to follow down the water, already subsiding,

244

EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAtf.

and reopen the line to the station, so as to get the
engine through to the ballast heap ; and by four o'clock
in the afternoon we had trains at work at both ends
bringing ballast in to make good the road. All that
night and the next day and night we worked, and re-
opened the line for traffic on the second morning.

This little episode was quite refreshing to me : the
cumbrous processes and delays usual in the cvery-day
course of things were neglected in the emergency, and all
hands worked with a will. I earned from the Japanese
the very doubtful compliment of having "worked like a
coolie"; and I am certain that one respectable old gentle-
man with whom I had a good deal to do in olBcial
matters renounced me altogether as an inferior person
when he saw me hopping about the line with my shirt-
sleeves tucked up to the armpits, demonstrating to the
men that if the water prevented their seeing where to
shovel in the ballast, it needn't prevent their feeling for
information. There was plenty more to do, in the way of
re-arranging our disturbed works, after the actual emer-
gency had been dealt with ; but beyond getting myself
down below thirteen stone. I don't know that I suffered in
any way but reputation. The Japanese official would never
condescend to lay hand to anything, except in case of fire
in his own house: even our native" foremen," as we called
them — thereby begging a question of some importance —
used to like to walk about the line or shops with gloves
on, in order not to be confounded with the coolies. As
a matter of fact, too, the Japanese in their early desire to
leara, had so many butchers and bakers and candlestick
makers in the positions of professors of foreign languages,

advisers on questions of agriculture and commerce, or
teachers of polite literature and etiquette, that one i3
disposed to excuse the suspicion with which they look
upon any actions indicative of acquaintance with manual
labour. At any rate, I have no doubt they chuckled
hugely at the idea of my having;, in a moment of forget-
fuUiess, betrayed a familiarity with pickaxe and shovel.

We lost a couple of men, unfortunately, at a smaller
bridge we had in hand, where there was also a consider-
able flow of water. The poor fellows were trying to save
some floating timber and were drawn into the current.
They had, in Japanese fashion, prepared themselves for
all bad-weather emergencies by putting on six or seven
suits of clothing, so that they were helpless as soon aa
they lost footing.

The country people of the district suffered severely ;
bouses, crops, utensils, provisions of all kinds, were in
some places swept clean away, and many lives were lost,
especially at a village called Hanada, about half-way
between our bridge and the sea, which was almost de-
stroyed. In the house.? that withstood the flood, people

_ were roosting on the beams of the roofs for the best part
f two days, or committed themselves in tubs to the
tnercy of the waters. This is a common dodge with the
labitants of the lowlying districts, who probably look

■upon the proceeding as a good joke — -more Japonicorum

Pi— in the interval between the first flurry of unpleasant
excitement, and the eventual subsidence of the water.
I have bew, wJien in quest of flood-marks about a new
district, h phly gratified when the oldest member of a

Lfamily has illustrated on the side of a tub the greatest

246

EIGlrr YEARS IN JAPAN.

height of a memorable flood above the floor on which the
said tub had been placed as a temporary refuge for the
rice-bag and the baby.

In November I experienced for the first time, but,
a!as ! not for the last by a long way, the inconvenience
of having my head offices in the terminus at Shimbashi.
It so happened that the vessels of war Japan owes to the
fears or ambition of the government and the genius of
Sir E. J. Reed, after having been tried in a variety of
ways and found more or less wanting, at last furnished a
pretext for a junkctting on the part of the two Empresses
and the ladies of the court ; and as when these great per-
sons travel by railway, reception or withdrawing rooms
are required at every possible resting-place, I was turned
out of my rooms in order that the officers of the Imperial
household might fit them up for the occasion with carpets,
screens, rare shrubs and flowers, chairs of state, tables and
tea apparatus, tobacco-jars, and so on. I had to retire to
my little private office in the house, armed with notice-
forms adapted to every possible contingency ; and await
the accomplishment of the august comings and goings,
and the reconversion thereafter of the offices to what I
had the cheek to look upon as their proper use. TTie
inspection of the ironclads was to be a very gay afl'air.
and some of the wives of the English officials attached to
the naval mission were to be presented to the Empresses,
on board the Fuso-katt (which, owing to its resemblance
in general shape to a Japanese bath-tub, was the favourite
of the three vessels with the natives), and theie were to
be great rejoicings, fireworks, sweetmeats, big ^un dril
and casualties,

All this was planned for the 4th of November, and
was to be forgotten before the return of the Mikado from
his journey, expected about the 8th. But on the 4th it
lained dismally, also on the sth, hkewise on the 6th; and
I was just enjoying the prospect of getting at my official
desk again (as the fun had to be given up) and making
up arrears of work, when a fresh irruption of wild officials
took place : the Mikado had determined to strike the
railway at Kanagawa and return to Tokiyo by rail.
This was pleasing, after a fashion, for I had arranged to
n n a series of special trains with materials for the works
in progress, delayed on account of the foregoing trouble ;
and these I expected would all have to be countermanded.
However, I hung out my flags and assumed an air of
festivity ; and as it happened, perhaps on account of some
occult influence thereby set in motion, two of the ordinary
public trains were stopped to make room for the Imperial
special, and my material trains were only delayed an
hour or two.

On the 9th, the Mikado arrived, his august consort
.coming down to the station to meet him, and looking
,a5 solemn as if no jinks of any height to speak of had
'been contemplated in his absence. She stood at the end
of the platform to await him, amid a group of attendant
'ladies, — some of whom, scandal said, were preferred to
herself, — made a low reverence to her lord as he passed
:with his immediate suite, and fell into the procession just
behind the bearer of the Imperial teapot and spoons,
■ entering her own carriage at the station steps to follow her
Spouse back to the palace. Many thousand spectators
were assembled, the Imperial Guards drawn up, and all

EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN.

the chief officials who had not gone down to Kanagawi
to meet the Mikado there put in an appearance at thi
Shimbashi terminus. The spectacle as a whole waj
rather imposing, and such displays are evidently populai
with the people of the capital.

I did not, however, get back into my offices for some
days after this, as there was a remote possibility that
the fleet might be honoured after all by an Imperial
inspection; but the abiding foulness of the weather
at last knocked the project on the head for the season.

This November was an exception to the ordinary
run of things. As a rule it is the finest and most settled
month in the year, a little frosty at nights, but brigbti
and clear when the sun is up. Sometimes the fine
weather lasts through to the middle of February with
hardiy a break ; but that does not make a hcalchf
season in the large towns, as unless there is some kiod
of a fail to flush the surface drains and carry away die
refuse that favours the seeds of disease, a sort of epideiMC]
of low fever may be looked for. This month was fatJ
to another of our staff. Theodore Shann, who caught
cold by exposure to a chill after fast walking, and had
a recurrence of his bronchitis of the preceding winlsii
which weakened him so much that he succumbed to
an internal ailment of an organic kind, and left us on
the 28th. He was laid hard by his old friend Jolal
England, in the Yokohama cemetery. |

I had now to rely entirely upon my Japanese st^
to carry on the renewal works and the doubling and
maintenance of the line. The length was divided intl
two sections, putting each in charge of a senior cadd

TOKIYO.

249

I my representative, with a senior foreman to assist
I in the general arrangement of labour and materials,
ile an assistant foreman was attached to the out-
: work, and a Japanese inspector of platelayers was
''doubled " upon each of the two foreign platelayers.
wy special works, requiring continuous supervision on
6 spot, of which we had many in hand, were placed
I chaise of the best men I could pick out for the
irpose, and made my own particular hobby. Very
■id some of these good fellows were at first, in their
|r places of responsibility, and their plaints of" tak'usan
flnai " (very dangerous) at the commencement of each
w operation were amusingly sincere ; but we did what
1 to be done without mishap, if at times a little the
CTse of expeditiously.

About ths end of 1S78, there first appeared to my
rvation a sort of beginning of the attempt, since
rpnisued with some success, and greater promise for
ItJie future, to form a sort of society in Tokiyo which
Hild include all the elements, native and foreign,
t could be made to combine. Of course there was
idy existing a certain amount of social intercourse
ween the more liberally minded of the high officials
[T state and the foreign representatives in the capital,
I to a smaller extent between the various depart-
officers whose accomplishments included a
Itliarity with the social observances of foreigners,
I the better class of foreign employes in the service
^e government. But differences of habit, incongruous
S of thought, and above all the difficulty of bringing
pie to adopt a common language for conversation.

EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN.

all combined to render exceedingly painful the early
attempts at general social intercourse. The " pidgin "
English of Yokohama and other trading ports, itself
a standing joke on account of the strange artiiicial
meanings attached to the words of a very limited
vocabulary, is utterly useless as a medium of general
conversation ; and it is felt by most Englishmen that
to address a Japanese gentleman in the phrases that
pass current in the office or sample-room would be
almost an insult, while even among men who have
resided a long time, as years go, in Japan, the mere
order of words in a grammatically correct sentence of
any but the baldest import is a standing difficulty.

Each succeeding year is, however, perceptibly adding
to the number of Japanese who, having resided in foreign
countries as students, mercantile agents, consuls, or
attaches to the various legations, and so on, have returned
to their own land with some facility in expressing and
comprehending ideas that underlie all social intercourse;
and it is no longer impossible to bring together persons
of different nationalities who are superior to the fcrf
of making ridiculous mistakes that goes so far, especially
with Englishmen, to keep up the barriers that divide
unaccomplished linguists.

It must, however, be remembered that in offidal
intercourse, the intervention of professed interpreters
is necessary for security against misunderstanding ; that
this in itself shuts off one important field of practice
the use of a common language ; while in private inta-
course such interpreters, if suitable for introduction
socially eligible into the society of their official superkx^

can hardly be looked upon as facilitating any but
most commonplace kind of talk. A third person
Japan is not always a help to mutual confidence ;
fallacy to suppose that one of three must be
far more careful of the import of his unconsidered
remarks than one of two. The remedy, nothing less
than the acquisition of conversational facility in a
language presenting extraordinary difficulty to one side
or the other, be the learner a Japanese or a foreigner in
the land, is slow of application ; but the feeling that it
is worth more striving after than the many have hitherto
given to it, has been of late forcibly impressed upon
those who have seen the result, so far, of the laudable
attempts made to overcome the obstacle.

It may be confidently believed that much of the
distrust that now taints the relations between the best
class of Japanese and the foreigners with whom they
come in contact will vanish before the growing light
of social intercourse, from which what we call "shop"
may be almost absent, and which may foster the develop-
ment of other interests in common.

At the same time, impediments to free social inter-
course among the Japanese themselves, remaining from
the old jealous exclusiveness of the upper classes, who
looked upon the bulk of the populace as from birth
destined to inferiority, and worse, to contempt, have
not failed to attract notice from leading men in the
modern Japanese society. A deliberately planned
coalition, for the nonce, between somewhat different
elements, took acknowledged shape in the beginning of
1879 in an entertainment given by the Tokiyo Prefecture,

ElGllT YEARS IN JAPAN.

the Local Assembly, and the Chamber of Commence
representing the administrative, politico-economical,
commercial circles of the capital. The watchword
circulated, at any rate, that the intention was to brol
down the barriers that had separated, so far,
merchants from the military and aristocratic cla
(now representing officialdom rather than exclusivenal
or special privileges and duties).

This was to be done to the music of champago
corks ; and to ensure a suflTicient mixture of the varidd
elements of society about three times as many |
were invited as the scene of festivity — the Mitsui Bad
offices — could well accommodate, A great number
foreigners, from the government services in Tokiyo, a
the mercantile community of Yokohama, were bidden t
the entertainment; and the occasion being of such I
special nature, there were but few refusals.

I had. fortunately, owing to a cold that troubled
preferred a substantial pair of walking boots to
thinner chaussure usually associated with evening dres

and was consequently enabled to smite blandly wl

after paying my respects to the Chiji (city prefect) ad
the ministers and merchants whom ! happened to kncn
as such, we all fell to trampling upon the barricis
good earnest, a process that made many grimace a
writhe. Apart from the champagne, which was to b
avoided, and the really magnificent supper that I dare
outlasted the successive attacks upon it that »
otganizcd by relays of guests, the staple entertainni
was a theatrical performance in the fourth story ; dif&col
of access, but still practicable, like the supper, to a

rith stout heart and either insensible or well -protected
oes. The part of the performance I happened to
Rtness was a very clever representation of a dancing
k^ by an actor whose gestures appeared to correspond
vith the twitches of imaginary strings held by anotlier
ictor who stood behind him ; but the heat was so
intcasc in the crowded room, in spite of the season,
which was a h%rd fipst, that I fully expected the
executant to drop dead in the midst of his exertions.
Subsequently the actors appeared amongst the guests,
in the white choker and swailow-tail of social life, and
pawed about their especial patrons of the aristocracy in
* disgusting fashion that left the barriers nowhere. On
fiic whole, despite the presence of Imperial Princes,
■ome of the old school of Japanese statesman, and the
ministers of state and foreign representatives, the enter-
tainment was simply a bear-garden ; and I believe 1 was
not alone in thinking that the barriers might with
advantage be raised again to some extent.

The spring of 1879 witnessed another step in advance,
B the railway management, by the introduction of native
igine-drivers to work a portion of the traffic — a long
temptated change, which had been systematically
vided for. It is true that between Tokiyo and
[ohama the task of engine-driving is about as simple
It can be anywhere ; but it behoved us to select and
men properly, and in the result there have
D but few instances of want of judgment on the part
e Japanese drivers. The curious view taken by the
-ofessional observer as to the dangers of such
lovations, was well illustrated by a remark attributed

EIGHT YEARS m JAPAN;

to a gentleman who in his own line had to exerct;
some powers of investigation and judgment. He sat
that " it would be all very well so long as the train wi
on a straight line, but he doubted if any Japanese coul
be trusted to steer the engine round those curves!" i
At first some acute inquirers amongst the travdlidj
public were very keen to know which of the daily traldl
were still entrusted to Europeans ; but as no casualtiei
of any kind occurred to demonstrate the inferiority OJ
the Japanese drivers, and as we found them not onlj
steady and wideawake, as we knew beforehand, bd
also economical in the use of coal, oil, etc — to saj
nothing of their lower wages, about one-sixth of tho)
. paid to foreigners, — the substitution was a source <
legitimate satisfaction to all interested in the propt
management and success of the railways. The iia
avoidable friction at the first starting of these arrangQ
ments, with a portion of the foreign staff, was well deal
with by the Locomotive Superintendents both at Kob
and Tokiyo.

There were several distinguished visitors to JapBl
during this year— the Duke of Genoa, Prince Heinrich a
Prussia, General Grant, and Mr. Pope Hennessy, noi
Sir John, of whom I think the Japanese considered th
last named as being by far the most important a
r^arded their own purposes. With the two princes,!
was simply a question of entertaining them in a maim*
worthy of the iand they were visiting and their hig
rank. With General Grant there was in addition a hop
that his advice and good offices might conduce to
settlement of existing disputes between Japan an

Hiina; while the general righting of everything wrong

, attributed to Mr. Hennessy as his province. I

Bbelieve as practical successes the courteous and un<

•pionnised princes may be bracketted first ; while the

I disappointment attaching to the result of the other

jentlemen's efforts was probably in proportion to the

^pectations formed at the outset.

Besides assisting at some pleasant gatherings in
honour of these visitors, I was personally interested in a
1 many of their movements, in my official capacity.
Ht generally happened when I had craftily arranged
ecial trains of materials, ballast, etc., for my own work,
Bill jogging along on its somewhat wearisome course, and
M exchanged the hobnailed boot of the perambulating
igineer for the laced shoe of the conscientious tennis-
ilayer, that a confounded insidious little brown envelope
rould be slipped into my hand, informing me of the
pntended transit to Yokohama^ or return therefrom, of
me one or other of the dignitaries above named, bent
1 pleasure or repose as the case might be, with an
mrage whose mends rejected the ordinary trains as
ath them.

Then no sooner had I countermanded all my own
rangements ; given the requisite notice all round to
Bie satellites who were waiting to twist the road about,
take the tops off bridges, or obstruct the line in any of
Bie other ways possible in the night interval, that they
; carefully to abstain from doing anything of the
b'nd ; had given the positive instructions necessary
■ the due provision of power for the special trains ;
md had thereafter sat down to dinner with a less

256

EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN.

developed appetite than I liad hoped for,— than wHi
telegrams would begin to assail me with tidings tba
two or more specials were wanted instead of one, or vu
versd; so that I had to break in upon the repose I
fancied I had earned, and do the work all over again.
Finally, as there never was any telling whether s<
official at a distance might not be called upon to modify
at the last moment the arrangements made, in accordance
with the whim of the moment developed by some of
the distinguished party, I could not even fall asleep
with a good conscience until I had heard the last engine
clank over the turntable on its way into the stable.
My enthusiasm in public as each of these distinguished
individuals left Tokiyo for the last time on his way to
the port where his ship was awaiting him to bear him
away to other lands, was not by any means a purely
complimentary effusion.

Some of the entertainments given to these dis-
tinguished visitors were pleasant enough, and came in
as a sort of compensation for the evils of which I was
otherwise the victim. One of the prettiest sights I
remember to have seen was the energetic chasing of the
perspiring general, on a hot July evening, by a host of
small girls, decked out as only children in full holiday
costume in Japan can be. These little lasses, daughters
of high officials, had been taught or told that about the
general which made them anxious to see him face to
face; and when the crowd had thinned, and General
Grant, I dare say, like other people, was turning his
thoughts towards a quiet smoke in some cool room
cr out of doors in the moon-!it garden, they ran him

1 in one of the corridors, Then to see the solemn
s and parted lips of these tiny maidens, as the great
i took each little hand and smiled upon them — not,
Kdare say, without an answering throb at his own heart —
to some who looked on by no means the least
(ipressive part of the evening's entertainment

Nearly all the stock occasions of revelling were more

r less improved by the authorities for the benefit of the

listinguished visitors. The annual /t/c on the Sumida

iver, supposed to signalize the opening of the season

for excursions upon the river in the cool of the evening

■in covered boats, not unaccompanied by the tuneful

geisha and her samistn, the jar of saki^, and the pickled

Pcuttleiish (which last in its mastication, deglutition,

absorption, and digestion, may be described as a joy

for ever and the day after), and all other delights that

can go on board a boat, — was intended to be something

quite beyond all, especially as regards fireworks; but

a furious rain-storm marred all. I was one of a jovial

' party who surrounded a fair lady and a supper basket,

I and 1 believe, the only one who kept up his spirits to

' the end ; for my position, and the vantage of a large

umbrella, enabled me to keep tolerably snug and dry

at the fair one's left shoulder under the awning, while

*U the rest got horribly wet and grumpy; so that at

last they refused to hand up the succulent pie and the

foaming glass any longer, but subsided into uneasy

slumbers as the boatmen fought their way through the

I OUT landing-place, where they were picked out

l*>f the bottom of the boat one by one and revived with

■brandy and soft words.

258 EIGHT YEARS tN JAPAN.

These sudden rain-storms at night, that occui
frequently during this particular summer, were re
godsends for the restless people, for they sent d<
the thermometer several degrees and gave us a cba
now and again of a good night's sleep. Happy tJi
who could get away to the hills, or up north, to Nii
with General Grant or to Hakodatt; with Pope Hence
— no such luck was mine, though I had a prospect
a little run north later on, as will be seen in due cours

Yet one motef^fe was there, which took place in I
Uy^no Park, where the Mikado, consenting to aco
the invitation of his faithful taxpayers of the metropc
was present at a display of national pastimes on '
lines of bygone times. The faithful gathered in la
numbers, about two thousand guests being within 1
enclosure, and amongst them quite two hundi
foreigners. The whole remaining population of Tok
was just outside, where they could see the day fi
works, in which the Japanese delight and excel. 1
first part of the pte consisted in sitting in a cove
gallery and fanning oneself while every five minutes
so a roar from the populace saluted a discharge of <
rocket, and an answering storm of applause from
dlite proclaimed that an old man, survivor of nu
taxpayers, had been presented to the Mikado. Tl:
was no stint of old men, and I was well into mytl
fan before the second part of tlie programme
entered upon. This was a display of fencing with sv
and lance, or rather quarter-staff and single-sti
several couples were at work simultaneously, and
fighting so fierce and vigorous that it was quite cham

TOKIYO. 259

see the profound bows with which the combatants

icluded their energetic bouts on a decisive advantage

gained by either, and retired to make way for

ih men. Then there was archery from horseback,

: game being to ride at full speed down a straight

id and try and hit targets placed fully ten feet to one

e ; not very difficult apparently, but the performers

re by no means invariably successful. After this

ne a display of skilled horsemanship, the most curious

rformance being the gradual loosing of long streamers

led to a pair of staves fastened to the back of the

Idle, the cunning rider so regulating the motion of the

rse that a gentle agitation was sent along the silken

earners, till at last some twenty yards of silk were

me on the air without the horse being urged beyond

ort of amble. Then followed the sport of dog-kiiling,

; victim being chased all over the enclosure by

Hinted huntsmen with bows and arrows, who en-

ivoured to hit him when dog, horseman, and arrow

re all flying sometimes in as many different directions

there were independent bodies involved. It was

lly evident, however, that the breed of dogs that

rmerly took an interest in this sport had degenerated.

is the animals produced either lay down in the sun and

•inked lazily as the blunted arrows struck them, or

ilolted through the rails into the crowd. So a wolf —

fliat is to say, a flour-bag — was substituted for the

men tcrp rising dog ; and being hauled along the ground

ty means of a rope attached to the saddle of one of the

most skilful horsemen, who wheeled about all over the

riacc, the bag describing involutes and evolutcs of the

z6o

EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAK.

most baffling description, with a cloud of pursuers aftei
it, the sport became certainly far more amusing thaa
the dogs had made it. '

This concluded the programme, and his Majesty
having retired to his pavilion, all the guests and several
million outsiders rushed into a long tent for refreshment^
which consisted apparently — but I was late for th<
fun — of sausage rolls and claret cup.

Such were our frolics ; and our work was enougll
to give zest to them, dull as they may seem on the
recounting. I was very busy all the summer, and at
last succeeded in getting the last " under " bridge safely
completed ; while my accessibility as a resident in tin
capital, brought me various outside matters to adviM
upon. In general, such applications were accompanio!
by a minimum of information and a demand for th(
most comprehensive advice and instruction. One of
characteristics of the Japanese is exemplified in the Ugh&
hearted way in which they come to get an opinion, an^
the subsequent depression and distrust that come ova
them when you, Mr. Adviser, suggest that you wouU
like to know a few more particulars ; they immediatei]i
begin to think, either that you have some conceal
interest that prompts you to ask more than theywi
you to know, or that you have no knowledge on tli
subject whatever, and desire to conceal your ignorance.

C 261 )

CHAPTER XII.

JOURNEY IN THE NORTH (1S79).

In September of this year, our department was put

under a new Chief, General Yamada, whose name is well

known in connection with the events of 1877, but whom

|1 never had the felicity to meet. Inouye Kaworu sue-

Ceded Mr. Terashima as Minister of Foreign Affairs,

there were various other changes. My hoped-for

> northwards became an actual fact at last, and I

rtcd away in the Meiji Maru, the lighthouse tender,

b inspect the " tramway," as it was called, at Kamaishi,

Iwate Prefecture, accompanying so far Mr. Yamao,

n Vice-Minister, aftenvards Minister of Public Works.

The Meiji Maru is a capital Clyde-built screw-

■ of about a thousand tons, and fitted very com-

tably for passengers, as she is frequently used to save

i of some importance the time and trouble of

erland journeys. She was full of stores, and had even

I part of the deck taken up with apparatus and

Btings of various kinds, not only for lights of the

Iffcrent classes that distinguish a really large number

: important headlands of the empire, but in this

t for the first installation of "sirens" on the coast.

EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAff.

What with the Engiaeer of the lighthouses, and h^
inspecting staff, who were at home, of course, in tbfl
boat; with the Vice- Minister, a financial pundit whfl
accompanied him on his inspection tour, various minor
officials and servants, and myself and interpreter, we were
rather crowded up, and I had to take my Japanese coot
who was accompanying me as a factotum for the return
overland, into my own cabin. We slipped away down
the bay of Yedo in weather that looked ominous of*
typhoon or earthquake (which some wiseacres profeB
to discover previously advertised in the heavens), of
something disagreeable ; but outside it was found to be
all right, just enough roll to afford me an opportunity irf
squaring accounts— well, never mind that. We rounded
the promontory that forms the south-eastern extremity
of Hondo (a name seldom heard, but really that of the
main island of all the three thousand odd that go to
make up the Japanese Empire), and came to our anchor
in the roadstead of Inuboye, near the mouth of the
Tone river, about six A.M., on the 22nd. Here th*
Engineer and his staff went ashore to inspect, and
the ship delivered stores to a very small extent, fo*
there was a long swell rolling in, that moved the ship sa
that it was unsafe to open the main-deck ports. So tlU
bulk of the stores destined for this place had to be
taken all round the islands, and brought back to Tokiyi
thence to start again by inland navigation for Inuboyt
some two months later. This is not a nice anchorage
as, though there is good holding ground, it is quite open
to the east and south ; and, moreover, on her next tril
the Meiji Maru discovered involuntarily that there wai

JOURNEY IN THE NORTH.

263

a sharp isolated peak of rock close handy, upon which
she sat unexpectedly, with results unpleasant, but not
serious.

It was not known when I was there, however, and
might have been unknown for ages but for this accident,
as the Meiji Mam was the only vessel drawing
fifteen feet of water, that ever came there, and she only
about twice a year for a few hours. We were sur-
rounded by fishing boats, the crews apparently taking
a holiday to watch the ship, for I couldn't see that they
Were trying to catch anything. On the return of the
shore party we were oiT at once, hoping to reach
harbour in the neighbourhood of the next light before
the moon should go down ; but we couldn't quite
Dtanagc it, and our careful skipper was too canny to try
and feel his way into a bay through rocky ground in
pitch darkness ; so he slowed down as soon as he
made the light, and when we rose early on the 23rd,
before the sun was up, there was the revolving light
jently winking at us from the bluff on which it was
lerched. We landed as soon as possible, by boat, on
tome rocks about a mile from the lighthouse, and the
ihip went off to the regular harbour, some half-dozen
nifes away on the mainland, for this was Kin-ka-san, the
Iloly island of the east coast, at the north-eastern corner
rfthe deep bay of Sendai.

While the officials interested were at their work in
the lighthouse, or planning the site of the new siren, I
wandered up the hill, getting some charming glimpses
into little bays on either hand, where the fishermen's
boats scarcely rocked at their anchorage, and the rocky

264 EIGHT YEARS l.V JAPAN.

scarps could be followed by the eye far down beneat!
the tranquil waters. From the top of the first knot 0/
spurs projecting from the main hill, that bears thr
temples on its brow, I looked out over the silvery Pacific
— five thousand miles of unbroken ocean between me
and the Califoruian coast. It almrat seemed as if we
were out of the world, and that there could be no real
necessity for the white lantern that was just peeping
over the brow of the cliff, seated on a little plateao
between two rifts where the rock fell away on either
side, and left a clear view for more than half a circle
over the waves and along the jagged coast line. I heard ;
the monkeys moving and chattering in the trees above I
me, though I could not catch sight of one of them ; but
some deer sprang out of the ferns close by me, and tffle|
big black buck came up within twenty yards and looked
as if he would pitch me down the hill just as soon as:
not. Like the man on the stile. I " continued to smile,
till I softened his heart, and he went ofif, " ctvec dtt
daims," — with his does in the wood.

I was so charmed with the place, that I asked the
Vice- Minister, when we met at tiffin in the keeper's
quarters, for bis interest to secure me the position of
light-keeper at Kinkasan, when my occupation as 1
railway engineer ahouJd come to an end in the land
Even the " siren " did not dismay me, for I could scheme
to make it play tunes, and welcome the fog-bewildered
Yankee skipper who should approach the coast, will
the soul-inspiring strains of his national anthem ; a
charm the coast-bound gull with the sympathetic nott
of " Oh I for the wings " on Sunday evenings.

JOURNEY IX THE S'OJtTS.

265

Our business done, we walked across the island, over

n6s^ about a thousand feet high, to a village and

roup of temples over against the mainland, and were

Erried across a strait about haif a mile wide, to the shore

Bder a wooded cliff, whence another little walk brought

to the village and harbour of Aikawa and our shi[), a

ice altogether of about eight miles. We were lucky

;our weather, which had permitted us to land at once

the island ; as if it had been rough outside we must

walked tioth ways.
The unloading of stores was not completed till late
light, so we lay at anchor till the dawn, slipped out
iveen the reefs, and rounding the island, exchanged
lals with the lighthouse, and sped away north along
picturesque coast. About noon we approached the
Hand that marks the entrance to the bay of
laishi, a narrow arm of the sea running some miles
between the hills, and dropped anchor at one o'clock.

P , the resident Engineer, whom I had only once

a for a few minutes in 1875, greeted me cordially ; and
his wife and children and their impedimenta were
going away by the Meiji Maru to Hakodate, there
[lo catch the coast mail for Yokohama, and so depart
for their ancestral home, he eagerly retained me to bear
him company during my stay at Kamaishi, by his lonely
heartiistone, I did my best to console him, and indeed
got up a mild quarrel, which did him a world of good,
tts to whether, being on the spot in response to a request
of his that certain locomotives should be condemned
by authority, I should accede to the request of the
Wee-Minister that I shouldn't be bashful about men-

266 EiGirr years in japan.

tioning any other matters that might come under m^
notice as condcmnable. in the line, the works, the mine::;
the staff, or any other noticeable thing. In the end I
blessed them altogether, locomotives, lire, live-stocfc,
and all ; and left them to quarrel amongst themselves,
as to whom, amongst many respectable persons otherwise
connected with the concern, they should blame for all
mishaps. This, however, was at the time of departure.
I had five days in which to look about the place, and ^
was away one night at the mines, up in the hills two
miles beyond the end of the railway, which is elertD
miles long. The principal mine is simply a gully in the
seaward face of the main range, exposing a vast mass
of iron-stone which is worked in the open ; the ore is
very rich, and plenty of it to last the reducing plant for
twenty years is already exposed to view. The approach
is difficult, being up a long winding gorge, with a rise
to the working levels of over thirteen hundred feet from
the railway. I was called upon to say how I should
recommend the transport of the ore from the mine _
to the railway to be effected; but when I told theifli
that I thought a certain mode would be just the thinj'
I found that was what every engineer they had brought'
there for the last five years had told them, and that
I might consequently just as well have held my tongue.
So we returned down-hill to Kamaishi. a village remind-
ing me in many respects of Shiotsfi, my old habitat,
but having an unpleasant reputation for a sort of Icprorf
prevalent among the inhabitants, insomuch that P—
had to employ servants about his house, who came
the hill from another valley altogether. Then

JOURNEY /y THE NORTH.

267

onsi'st of a couple of furnaces, with three hot-blast
'es, blowing engine, etc., all complete, and a very
litious rolling mill with puddling and reheating
imaces, steam-hammers, and all appurtenances.
No work had been done as yet, when I was there ;
fact, the railway was not completed, so that the supply
Ihc furnaces could not be brought in.
I don't know whether there was any meaning in the
lestton the Vice-Minister put to me, how should I
» to be engineer at Kamaishi ; but T had only to
mind him of his promise about Kinkasan. Certainly
be exiled to an isolated valley, where one is cut off
Poi all communication with the world, is a fate which
any rate my good friend P did not paint in rose-
Jour, in his anecdotal descriptions.
On the morning of the 30th September, we left
imaishi. by rail as far as it would take us, and thence
liked along the unfinished line to Ohashi, at the foot
a pass over the ridge. The climb was very steep,
1 tiring even to the legs ; what it would have been
a pack-horse I can't say, for I preferred walking up
1 down the other side. The view landward from the
I was very beautiful, range after range of hills into
I far distance, the nearer ones clothed with forest
n top to bottom, with the leaf just turning to colour,
I the more remote were all shades of brown and
pie in the broken light that gleamed through the
Is, then beginning to pack under the afternoon sun.
At the foot of the pass we canne upon a merry little
r, and followed it down, passing a bare cliff of grani
It five hundred feet high at one bend of the valley,

EICHT YEARS IN JAPAN.

and gradually gaining a more open country. Then ii
came on to rain — for the first time in our whereabouts
since leaving Yokohama ; and we had a weary time
of it inside our waterproofs, perched on stumbling pack-
horses, fording rivers and plashing along the roads, or"
such remains of them as had survived recent floods,
At last, as night fell, we arrived at Tono, our resting-
place, and I solemnly comminated the beast who bad
borne me there before I entered the tea-house — a pro-
ceeding that caused some astonishment to the bystanderF.
It had a good result, however, for next morning I founil
my steed equipped with a good English saddle and
bridle, about the last thing I should have looked for in
Tono, a remote market town in perhaps the least
advanced district of Japan, Here I found that nty
choicest Japanese was quite thrown away ; the people
would not even listen to me, but seemed to think that
as a foreigner the best thing I could do would be W
hold my tongue and get on my way. I vainly attempted
to get rid of the man who led ray horse, but he stuck
to " his " animal — that is, the animal who owned him.
A Japanese horse employs a man pretty much as a
face maintains a nose — to go before it and get first into
trouble. However, I was thankful for the less unnatural
seat, and the sensation of having my beast by the head,
so that I could make the acquaintance of one of my
companions at any rate.

We had a five hours' ride on the ist October, partly
over hills and vile roads, till we reached a sort of neck
of high ground connecting a knot of outliers with the
western spurs of the main range, and here we found!

JOURNEY IN THE NORTH.

269

I wide road, and jinrikishas that took us into
Jbe plain traversed by the Kita-kami river, and so up
earn to Morioka, the chief town of the Iwate pre-
Eture. The name of the prefecture is taken from that
f the shapely hill that stands out in front of the rugged
juntains to the north-east — Iwa-te or "rocky hand ;"
idoes look as if the genius of the mountains had laid
it grasp upon the plain. In the polite tongue the name
fthe mountain is Gan-j'iu-san, which means I know
t what ; or, again, travellers call it the Fuji of the
Wth ; and one high authority attributes to it the
raceful logarithmic curves" that form the outline
l( the only true Fuji. As to this I can only say that
I good comprehensive view of the mountain from foot
crest, from the other side of the valley of the Kita-
ni, failed to reveal them to me. It is, however, a
[rand mass, and, like all lofty mountains in Japan, is
"oked upon as something sacred ; and it resembles Fuji
"1 being an extinct, or at any rate dormant, volcano.

At Morioka I took leave of the Vice-Minister, who

Was bound upon a round of visits to out-of-the-way

lines, undaunted by the prospect of two months of

1 a rugged inhospitable district. I turned my

e southward, and made good time up the great north

d (leading from the capital to the extremity of the

in island in this direction), a.s far as Takashimidzu,

I days from Morioka. The road, which is the

!ley of the Kita-kami, was interesting to me as an

engineer for several reasons. In the first place it lies on

tfae route of the often proposed railway from the capital

iiward, traverses an important grain district, or

[

2-0 £/GffT YEAXS IS •}APA.V.

borders upon it rather, for it skirts or mounts upon tfie
roothiils nearly all the way, and shows throughout a
length of nearly a hundred miles the essential poverty
of the country, even where agriculture may be said to
flourish. All along this, the principal road through the
valley, every bridge is ruined ; during the two ycari
that had elapsed since the beginning of the destructioi
notliing had been done to remedy the damage
by floods. In places the main river itself seemed
to try how many channels would suit its wayward dif
position, uncontrolled by guardian embankments,
overthrown and effaced, while the tributary streams
mere wastes of barren boulders, when the natural con*
figuration of the hills did not provide a ravine to h(
them. The road was almost deserted, and wherever it
mounted on to the spurs, great stretches of uncultivated
moor appeared, with here and there an insignificant
chain of irrigated fields, betraying more than their tolll
absence would have done the limited enterprise of tl*
district

The idea of a railway leading through such districti
as this, in a succession broken by rugged chains and
hurtled groups of mountains, for four hundred miks
to Awomori, which is nothing and leads to nowhere, his
been harped upon with a persistency little short of
mania, by a few persons of influence greater than thqi
can themselves wield to a useful end, and presumj
prompted by financial, not economical, speculators. It
earnestly to be hoped that the project has been fin;
scotched by this time; but as soon as any talk ai-^
dunng the last six years of my connection with Japan.!

JOURNEY IN THE NORTff.

271

f railway enterprise, the scheme was always handi-
ipped by the monstrous load of " a branch to Awo-
d" I dare almost say that no trustworthy informa-
1 as to the wants and capabilities of the district has
r been sought by the most active advocates of what,
andertakcn, would prove a wanton waste of capital.
A really good scheme for the benefit of tliis Kita-
mi valley was at the time I was travelling there,
process of execution by the Home Department, Even
len the inland course of the river was better main-
iied, there had always been a difficulty at its mouth,
we a bar dosed the passage to the junks that loaded
I for the Tokiyo market, so that they were some-
s detained at Ishinomaki, the trading port of the
trict, for two or three months, till a spring tide, con-
trent with a favourable wind, enabled the vessels to
ar the bar, and reach the offing safely. A canal was
tag formed to connect the river above the town, with
sheltered harbour some ten miles to the westward,
ere steamers of fifteen feet draught could take in
D at all times. The Vice-Minister of Public Works,
lelf in no way connected with the project, owing to
! curious mutual jealousy of departments and conse-
tat duplication of administrative arrangements con-
ntly to be remarked in Japan, had recommended me to
; from the direct road and look at this important
rk, and had furnished me with an official introduction
Jhe Vice-Minister of the Home Department, who was
posed to be there at the time. As a matter of fact
terwards heard he had been in Morioka at the same
3 we were ; but I found officials on the spot who

272 EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN.

received me with courtesy and showed me with some
justifiable pride the beneficial work upon \rfiich they
were engaged.

From Takashimidzu, then, I diverged to the east,i
and after a heavy day's journey through an almost
heartbreaking district — for there was so much to be done
to repair damages — I reached Ishinomaki, a picturesque
town on both sides of a broad, handsome stream, sheltered
on the east by the last spurs of the coast range, and on
the west by a hill that rose into a bold bluff overlookii^
the Bay of Sendai to the south, the sandy coast and lagooM
to the westward, and behind them the wide valley with
its little groups of villages, peaked and wooded hillocksi
and great mountain walls stretching far away to tha
northward, with the silvery stream winding from one side
to the other, to collect its tributaries from the lateral
plateaus.

The mouth of the river, just in front of the bluff, is
shallow gap about two hundred yards broad, with a junk
sticking in it, as I looked down from the top of the hill ;
I dare say there is always that to be seen. I am nc*
prepared to say that the good people of Ishinomald.
were quite pleased at having their port reduced to *
secondary rank, and the insignificant fishing village ofi
Nobiru at the new harbour elevated into importance
but what they lose wiil be saved to the producers, whose
harvests will be carried quicker and cheaper to theif
market. The junction of the canal, which is open from
the mouth to the influence of the tides, here not vefj
important, with the river, is by a sort of lock, the gate
of which close against tlie main river in time of flood. I

yQURNEY IN THE NORTH.

iinafy states of flow the entrance may be open, as the
fc also runs up the river above the point of junction
I the canal, without much difference of time or
iod. This work has been planned and superintended
'Dutch engineers, who are generally intrusted with
improvements of rivers and harbours, by the Home
Ktrtment ; and every information 1 desired was
nptly furnished to me by those in charge. Very
: had yet been done at the Nobiru end ; but the
cral design of the artificial shelter proposed for the
Istead and the small craft harbour was exhibited.
I had heard that some doubt was expressed by the
ritics as to the effect of admitting even a small
1 wave to a length of canal through sandy soil ; but
big, as of course I expected to, that protective works
integral part of the design, and reflecting
t if a Dutch engineer didn't know how to deal with
I a problem, the devil himself couldn't teach him.
aw no reason to anticipate a failure in Japan that

In't be looked for in Holland.
From Nobiru I started early on the 6th by road to
Jace called Matsushima, reported the most beautiful
all the lovely places of Japan, on account of the
nber of fir-crowned islands that lie in a corner of the
' of Sendai, over a space perhaps fifteen miles long
1&X. broad. There are over a thousand of them, some
r enough to contain villages, some mere rocks of
' fantastic outline. The rock about sea-level is a
one, capped by a harder stone below the surface
so that the coasts of the larger islands, and
sides of the smaller rocks are hollowed and carved

2/4 Bicrrr years in japan.

into caves and overhanging precipices : one rock is
exactly the shape of a curling wave. At the village of
Matsushima we took boat, and were rowed for about
six miles amongst the islands to another village, also
the mainland, called Shiwokama. Here is a celebrated
temple, much venerated for the assistance granted by
the divinity to whom it is dedicated, to such of the
faithful as desire to become fathers and mothers in the
land. It stands on a hill, approached by steep and lofty-
flights of steps, and not only the temple, but a nest of
subsidiary tea-houses and their somewhat over-demon-
strative staff appear to be flourishing. My interpreter
and boy both purchased of the priests tickets, certifying'
that they had chin-chinned the presiding deity, to be
shown to the wives of their bosoms on their return
home, to their mutual comfort and sustentation.

From Shiwokama we took jinrikishas, atid soon
found ourselves in Sendai, which gives its name to the
bay I had been coasting the last two days, though it
is some dozen miles inland. This was the second and
last rainy afternoon we had in the trip, and by five
o'clock it was fine again, so that 1 could take a walk
about Sendai, the largest town north of Tokiyo : here,
be it remarked, we rejoined the great north road, the
Oshiu-kaido.

Sendai was the seat of the Dati family, one member
of whom is about the best known personage by sight, of
the Japanese nobles who are detailed by the govern-
ment to cultivate personal relations with distinguished
visitors ; while another is known as a sportsman who
sometimes brings his gun and forgets his cartridges, and

JOURNEY IN THE NORTH.

Emetimes forgets the gun as well — so at least I am told
C quite trustworthy persons, who never joke. The
mb of the founder of the family is at Sendai, so I paid
visit to it, expecting to find some grand monument,
^ially as the approach is through a public park ; but
II could find was a ditch enclosing a space behind a
kU shrine ; in the centre of the space was a tree, and
V the foot of it three small blocks of stone, suggesting
fldea that some stonemason's children had been at
fr there.

BPhim the steps of the shrine we had a fine view over

feity, and lamented the destruction of the castle, the

I of which, with its sloping approaches and lofty grey

lining walls, was plainly visible on the flank of the

stem hilis. Thcp we descended into the business

1 of the place, and after some hunting discovered

irand cigars, whereof I made prize, and boots, which

I interpreter refused to buy, because the shopkeeper

Ud not reduce his price, as every proper Japanese

{peeper should do. So he, the interpreter, resolved to

Idc the pair of cloth boots, with which he had started

r overland journey of some four hundred and fifty

, last him out to the end, and it was certainly

ibie to identify their remains when he reached

Q'o, I entertain a favourable recollection of Sendai,

inly on account of the beer and cigars, but because

niform and hideous ugliness of the people I had

{throughout since leaving Kamaishi was compensated

f the extreme loveliness of a young girl at the tea-

e where I stoppeiJ, — a more perfect face and dignified,

her reserved, manner accompanying the gentlest

276

EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN.

courtesy, I have never seen to my recollection. I
ascertained that Sendai was her birthplace, which istbc
best thing 1 can set down about that ancient stronghold
In general, the pretty women of Japan are simply pret^,
and the pleasant ones simply pleasant ; but the maid of
Sendai was far above such praise as that.

From Sendai to Tokiyo, four days and a half, I noted
but few things. The road is monotonous, for without
going over any pronounced dividing ridge it traverses
an immense number of hill-sides, up and down, up and
down for ever almost, without affording anything like
a prospect, and bringing the traveller every few miles to
a village that is exactly like the last one and that next
to come. There are some four or five large towns in
which the inn accommodation is good ; at other places it
is so indifferent that one avoids stopping, and the conse-
quence is an almost disheartening succession of similar
places during the day, and a late arrival at and early
departure from all places of interest. At a town called
Otawara we took coach, and thence into Tokiyo the
journey was less tedious, but not more interesting;
Utsunomiya, that I passed through in 1877, was only
a halting-place for tiffin this time.

I reached home in a thankful spirit, with only half a
pound of biscuits and one small bottle of champagne
left of my stores ; but I had made a good show with the
food of the country on my way, or I should not have
brought home even so much, for profiting by former
experience, I had no more baggage than our three
jinrikishas, when we could get them, would carry along
with the three travellers, self, interpreter, and servant

JOURNEY IN THE NORTH. 2J7

laishi, Ishinomaki, Matsushima, and Sendai, how-
were well worth the trouble of the Journey ; to say
ling of Kinkasan, the scene of my future repose,
I retire from the active exercise of my profession
turn my attention to the development and perfection
the far-resounding fog-horn,

I found on ray return that the American mail I had
;d to catch had departed on the morning of my
i?al, taking away also our Sir tfarry Parkes. A bare
Ivemonth had elapsed since Tokiyo and Yokohama
bid farewell to Lady Parkes, combining the best
les for her prosperous voyage home with a fervent
that her return to Japan might not be impossible,
it was known that " home " was not always kind in
ing to the resident for a space in Eastern climes,
Sir Harry's sudden departure for England was a
'aming of the gloom that ere long fell over society In
hen the news of November reached us.

278 EIGHT YEARS IN yAPA.V.

CHAPTER XIII.

tokiyO (1879-80).

By this time my renewals were so far completed that^
began to look about for new work, and felt inclined
wish that some accident would destroy some of t
" poky " stations that were about the only thing on 1
line now that I was ashamed of; but destruction
buildings comes all too frequently in Japan, as I
to my cost before the winter was over.

Christmas Day went out in peace and goodwill; tl^
Boxing Day was "a scorcher." 1 was writing in
office about noon, when the clang of the fii
suddenly rang out ; and from my window, a lofty bl
floor in the Shimbashi terminus, I could see far am
over the roofs, in the heart of Tokiyo, a little streak I
black smoke torn in tatters by the fierce north-west win
Under such circumstances it was clear that unless tt
fire should be got under in the first minute or twoy
would spread and sweep down to the sea ; but even as
looked the red flames rose over the house-tops, and tl
fire began to leap and bound, as it always does widl
wind in a Japanese town. We had fire-engines at
station, but wc could only get them run out in readini

widl
at ti I
idinesM^

TOKIYO. 279

fcraclioa if the fire came our way, as it seemed at first
might do ; no more, for the majority of our men lived
Ik threatened districts, and had to run to save their
ailies and belongings.

The foreigners about the place were chiefly interested,
soon as it was seen that the direction of the wind was
:ing the fire well clear of the station, in the preserva-
11 of the boats of the rowing club, kept near the
uth of the river, a good mile and a half away from
locality of the outbreak ; but before there was any
race of getting there from Shimbashi, the last
upant of the neighbourhood had wisely made his
a5>e, including our caretaker who got the boats out
J the mud, where they were subsequently burnt up,
except a little dinghy, in which he contrived to get
ly himself By half-past two a space about a mile
] a half long and fully three-quarters of a mile broad

I been swept clear of all but the fi re- proof godowns or
rehouses that are attached to every well-built house ;
cr the passing of a fire they stand up like tombs in the
ert They will stand a very intense heat for a short
e, but the contents, if of any perishable material, are

illy altered a good deal in constitution by the time
! fire has passed them by, and left the mud walls to

II down again.

The fire Just took the corner of the foreign Concession,
ning a wooden church and three or four houses there ;
: for some time other houses were in great danger,
! the scene of confusion was bewildering, every
et and vacant plot being covered with furniture, mats

shutters, household utensils, and bedding, all tossed

ErCHT YEARS IN yAPAN.

by the furious wind, that lifted the very gravel ofT the
roads and dashed it about with the smoke and the
burning fragments, A number of native carpenters
stopped the fire in this direction. They had a large
framework of a house standing near the sea, erected
under contract, it was said, and not yet paid for ; so they
worked like madmen to keep it from catching fire,
beating out the flying sparks and burning shingles, and
drenching the timbers with water ; so that though
buildings were consumed by the flames within twenty
yards of them, and the heat must have been terriAc
their eiforts were at last successful, and moreover saved
all the sea-front of the Concession, and the American
Legation.

The native fire-brigades worked and quarrelled
valiantly on the skirts of the fire, and succeeded in
limiting its spread at many points of danger; but the
conflagration leapt the wide river in two places, burning
a convict gaol and a ship-yard on an island, and some
junks that lay over half a mile out beyond. By six
o'clock only the immense stacks of firewood and lumber
near the harbour were still in flames ; elsewhere the fire
had done its work, having destroyed eleven thousand
houses and rendered fifty thousand people homeless.
Rumour said a hundred lives were lost, in a great measure
in consequence of the burning of the bridges, thus cutting
off exit for belated ones from some of the wards
surrounded by canals.

All this was the work of a short winter's afternoon,
and the gale continuing after nightfall great appre- I
hensions were felt lest a further calamity might occur, i

By eight o'clock, however, the wind lulled, and a bright
moon shone over the camps of the poor sufferers,
I huddled together in family groups with such mats and
iblankets as they had been able to save, to weather
Ihrough the frosty night. The city authorities were
live in giving help, distributing rice and other food,
hile many private persons opened their houses to their
oieiess neighbours.

I visited the point of the outbreak in the evening
d found, while embers were still smouldering on the
Bund, all sorts of temporary shelter being put up,
downs opened and converted into dwellings, and even
jghter pealing from busy groups, at some trivial
lishaps that bore quite a comic aspect in comparisoa
!th the day's disaster.

Our rowing boats were all destroyed, and the club
ftualJy broken up by the catastrophe. There was no
pobt as to the origin of the fire, which was a sudden
tst of wind blowing open a door and scattering light
tiles out of a brazier in a small thatched outhouse.

The winter weather was very fine, scarcely a break
atil the second week in February, and the sun was so
cnial that in January we had the plum in full blossom
llhe open and violets in flower. At the same time
tere was skating on a small piece of water in the castle
•closure, where a grove of lofty bamboos sheltered the
Brface from the direct rays of the sun.

A little attempt at gaiety was made after the New
I Year in the foreign circles of the capital ; but the dancing
1 piities that had been organized soon fell oif, chiefly
I twing to the mutinous conduct of some husbands, who

282

EtGHJ YEARS IN JAFAN.

united themselves, after swearing horrid oaths in prival
1 league to buy no more gloves, but to dance alwaj
The show of hands at one meeting was almost conclusi
against a continuance of that kind of thing.

In February, 1880, the fire-demon paid me a person
visit, much to my astonishment, as my house was qui
isolated and out of the way of the sweeping conflagr;
tions that one generally looks for in japan. Bi
defective chimneys are found everywhere in Japan, tl
land of frequent though mild earthquakes; though
was under the delusion that the good stone chimnej
stacks, bound together with iron bands, of which I hai
the detailed drawing in my office, were to be tnistn
The I ith of the month was a general official holiday, ad
I had been disporting myself away from home in dcspt
of the softly falling rain, returning about half-past si
when I thought the evening so mild that I would hal
no more fire made from that time. After dinner 1 1
reading till bedtime, when as usual I covered up I
grate in which there was then only the smallest spar
fire remaining, with a wire fireguard, and retired to d
with a clear conscience and no presentiment of impeiJ
misfortune.

About four in the morning I was awakened!
sound that I at first took to be the plashing off
rain on the edge of the verandah ; and was lazily q
over to sleep again, when I became suddenly fullw
to the fact that the room was full of smoke, and \
sound in question was the crackling and pod
burning wood. Of course this was a fire in the if
I sprang to my feet, opened the door and al

opposite to it, and yelled for the boys, who slept in a
separate range of buildings. I was somehow possessed
■with the idea that if the site of the fire was kept shut up
till help arrived the house might be saved ; so I grabbed
at my clothes and watch, and made my way downstairs
through thick smoke to the dining-room door, and
peeped in. There was no mistake about it, the ceiling
tad fallen in and the room was full of fire ; so I shut the
iloor carefully, and was retreating to the front door,
i^ich was fastened inside, when I found myself in a
cooler atmosphere, and found that the boys had thrown
open the door leading out into their yard, of which they
^)t the key.

I suppose first my opening the upstairs window to

oil for assistance, and then the opening of this down-

lUirs door, set up a circulation of air that developed into

» blaze a considerable mass just smouldering up to that

|lime, for the fire seemed to burst out through the walls

round the house about the ceiling level, and I had to

it to one of the servants' rooms to get into my

idothes. Not a soul was visible yet to help, but only a

[tared woman messing about with a baby ; so I ran

md to the front of the house, hoping to get into the

'rench windows and save some papers at any rate ; but

3l was too late, the front was one mass of fire. But I

could see that the chief body of flame in the wings of

Die house was in the space between the ceiling of the

ground floor and the floor of the upper rooms ; in this

iouse exceptionally deep, some five feet or so.

I gave it up then and there, and some men arriving
with the squirts that do duty for fire-engines in native

284 EIGHT YEARS Itf JAPAN.

hands, I set them to work to save the servants' quarters.
Then our own Merryweather arrived, after an excursion
round the station-yard in search of water. We had a
good arrangement by which the engine at a central
point could force water nearly all over the shops and
quarters ; but this central point was supplied by the dty
mains, and of course they were laid off for repair at the
time. So we got the suction hose into a tidal creek
close by, and by this time I was " wanted " by the police
— only to be sure I was safe, however, for it was knottn
that I slept alone in the house. A couple of jets were
brought round to the front, and started to play as nearly
as could be upon the site of my cash and deed boxes;
but the water could only touch the outside of the lire-
In less than half an hour from the time of my awakening
there was nothing left standing but the two chimney-
stacks, and I had borrowed a pair of boots and laid
violent hands on a cigar, and was enjoying a smoke
"by my own fireside," to use Sheridan's sorry joke.

In a couple of hours the iron boxes were extracted ;
but the contents were charred beyond recognition ; so all
that remained to be done was to play the fire out, which
took a long time. The servants' offices were saved, and
the cook at the first alarm had gone for the meat-safe in
the covered way connecting the two buildings, so that
I had an early breakfast of succulent steak, with a tree
stump for a seat and a kitchen chair for a table.

Of course the point of interest, when I had received
thecondolencesof my friends, and purchased anewouw'
to supplement what I had at the wash at the time of th'
catastrophe, was how did it

TOKIYO. 38s

The origin of the fire was pretty clearly traced to a
gap of communication between the flue of the dining-
room fire, and the space above the ceiling ; how long the
timber had been smouldering there was no telling; it
might have been hours or days, for the room above the
dining-room I never used, and therefore missed any
indication that might have been sensible there. The
ehimney-stack was built of very soft stone, and with
extremely bad mortar, and had been shaken by the
earthquakes of several successive years. My wits being
sharpened by this calamity, I instituted an examination
,of the similarly built chimneys of the station offices, with
result of finding that in many places it was quite
ible to insert a walking-stick between the stones
Bto the flues from the outside, when the plaster, skirt-
ings, and floors were removed around them ; so that it is
t wonder the place had lasted so long, and I could not
teip a selfish wish that the warning had been given by
he destruction of the oflices, and the remedial measures
ipplied in my house. However, we got some good out
of the trouble.

I put up with my friend the Locomotive Superinten-
dent, pending the discovery of another suitable habitat
Sot myself, and elaborated a design for a new house on
ifee old site, the which was, after some struggle with the
fixed tendency of the Japanese mind to let everything
Fweign in its nature or purposes slide as chance may
direct, erected for me ; for I did not like the idea of
ling my garden and tennis lawn, as well as the house
knd its contents. The course of events, however, ulti-
mately divorced me from the place altogether, instead

286 EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN.

of merely temporarily as 1 had hoped. Not foreseeing
this at the time, I enjoyed for some months the pleasure
of superintending the building of a nice Uttle house — for
another man to live in.

I suppose the actual loss to me, hopelessly total as it
was in the first five minutes, was not realized to the full
until months had elapsed. I had a sort of feeling that
I was a very light ship and in no danger of coming to
grief any more for awhile, so long as my ribs held
together, of which there was every prospect. A lot of
lumber that I had accumulated in the course of the
previous six years, and of which I had almost foi^ottei*
the details, had gone away in smoke ; so, alas! had my
furniture, including a good piano, and so forth, altogcthe*"
to the tune of between three and four thousand dollars %
and then my books, notes and papers— there was the nib»
and I groaned in spirit when occasions brought home
to me the loss of some abstract or calculation, or the
interleavings of my books of reference. Sometimes I
did grizzle above a bit, I believe, over that February
morning's destruction, and I have a hatred of smoke
(always excepting that of tobacco the consoler), that will
not leave me if I am burnt at the stake for it.

And then the great work!— not this little one —
materials for which I had supposed myself to be secretly
collecting, to flash some day before the eyes of an
astonished world ; — I will resist all temptations to
enlarge upon that grief.

I once met with an old clergyman, who bitterly
lamented the ruthlessness of men who ran a railway
just behind his house, and cut two favourite meadows

Tojsriyo. 287

^t into cocked hats; but as he said, "there is com-
ensation in all things — now, my grapes were remarkabiy
ne that year!" So in this blessed February of 1880,
'ithin two days after my bereavement, I received
nstructions to prepare orders for the materials of a
lundred miles of line, permanent way and rolling stock ;
ind felt myself young again.

This was intended to connect the capital with the
silk district of Joshiu, traversing a line of country not
tenting any particular difficulty, except, of course,
B rivers to be crossed on the way, the first whereof
mmediately proceeded to tackle.

1 This was a big thing, and presented an interesting
Hobieni for solutioii ; and I went at it with some zest.
The native engineers were, however, disconcerted by
ay asking for the assistance of some surveyors. Those
i the department were all otherwise employed, so
ktook a cadet out of the head of^ce, and made a
liveyor of him, — losing a little time in the doing so, —
Skd giving to the work such time as I could spare from
ny other duties, at last produced a systematic view of
he characteristics of the river, and the considerations
;o be kept in view in bridging it. But my good fiicnds
the native engineers, I found, had expected that I would
|D and stick them up a couple of poles, one on each
e of the river, and say " Here's your crossing ! " and
«!d then go on to the next and polish off the whole
e in a week or so. So when I had with some little
r told them what I considered they ought to know
BOul the first river, I was politely requested to defer
kimination of the rest for a time ; and one of them-

selves proceeded, in the rough and ready heaven-1
genius-and-see-it-with-half-an-eye kind of way above
suggested, to lay out the line. My old-fashioned educa-
tion having led me to the belief that it is well to know
something about facts in connection with proposed
works, I was quite left behind by the young engineering
giants of Japan, — who, indeed, on the completion of their
first tunnel, for instance, boldly proclaimed the interesting
news that such work was better understood in Japai
than in other lands, and refrained from alluding to
foreign assistance.

However, being requested not to trouble about it,
I didn't trouble about it ; and whether the matter has
since arrived at the stage when it is advisable to be
serious in one's arrangements, I don't kn»w — it was not
so up to the time of my departure from Japan.

At the end of February we had the severest earth-
quake that occurred in Japan in my time. The agitation
lasted nearly three minutes ; quite long enough to make
people realize a full measure of discomfort and appre-
hension ; and though the actual damage done was
marvellously small (in our railway buildings far less than
a much shorter rumble effected the previous October),
a good many of our community did not get tlieir hair to
lie straight for several days after, nor think without
nausea of the interval between being shaken out of sleep
and finding themselves outside their houses. Even the
scientific observers, of whom the number in Japan is
yearly increasing, rather lost their heads. One man
I know of, a truthful being, and not extraordinarily
nervous, described in print the alacrity with which he

TOKIYO. 289

I leaped from his bed. seized paper and pencil, and opened

s watch to note down the exact time. In accordance

with instructions circulated by the Seismological Society

Lflf japan, he accurately noted the second hand; but

ast then the lamp fell from the ceiling and the chimney

reamc through the roof, and the record was lost as he

I sought the outside of the premises. It was suggested

) him that he would have had a splendid funeral,

L»tlendcd by the whole strength of the Society's members,

If he had succeeded in getting the minutes accurately

corded before his brains were knocked out by the

week of his dwelling ; but he expressed himself satisfied

Nth things as they were.

Some of the earthquake observations made by
lateurs without any special apparatus are rather
mishing. That event of the previous October, for
tance, was described as causing the trees to brush the
Fcuih, and the long grass to crack like whiplashes, while
Iflie coming shock was heralded by a roar as of an
■[iproaching luggage train. As the greater shock, or
iber group of shocks, in February occurred at the
tad of the night, there were fewer such fanciful tales
tng about ; but the different patterns of seismometers
If seismographs or seismoscopes recorded varying and
consistent movements, and rival inventors and
ssors rushed into wordy war. Still very little doubt
b entertained by some members of the Seismological
idety of Japan, that before long the whole family of
thquakes will be so far reduced to the position of
iquaintances, that after any shock it will be possible
» say "Earthquake C 14 (or whatever his registered

290 EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAAT.

name may be) looked in this morning, but didn't stop
long."

A large number of systematic observations of a
simple character, chiefly as to time and direction, have
been summarized with the result of pointing out a spot
within a few miles of Yokohama as the probable site of
the next new volcano ; but the value of real estate there
is kept up by a combination of scoffers.

The Japanese have a regular earthquake drill, with
which they are acquainted from childhood. At the first
agitation, they rush out of doors, if their homes are
open as in summer ; but if it is a cold season, or the
houses are closed for the night, each man, woman, w
child of sufficient size to act independently seizes one
leaf of the shutters that slide in groves on the edges of
the verandahs, lifts it traywise on to the head, as i
protection from falling tiles or debris, and so gaining
the nearest open space, lays it down on the ground and
sits in the middle of it, to minimize the liabilit)" W
fall into cracks or rents in the earth's surface. Tlie
sudden galvanizing into life of a sleeping village is i
very funny sight, resembling a pantomime trick in its
conception and execution. Resort is also had to
bamboo groves, as the interlacing tough roots certainly
bind the surface together so as to render it extremely
unlikely that any fissure will open in such a locality,
for choice.

These earthquakes are certainly disagreeable, and as
one can never tell when a vibration commences what
it may be at its maximum, the more earthquakes sn
known the less likeable they are. It requires consider-

TOKIYO. 291

ble nerve, if not indeed the disposition of a fatalist

Bnatic, to keep sufficiently still to make any trustworthy

hservations when it is merely an open question whether

he occasion is to be chiefly interesting amongst the

ockery. or to rival the calamity of 1855, when many

housands of lives were lost in Tokiyo alone by the

ailing of buildings, the subsequent outbreak of fire, or

Ithe sweeping invasion of a tidal wave. But a great

■amount of ingenuity has in Japan been devoted to the

■ devising of automatic machines for registering the direc-

Itions, force, and time of earthquake shocks, or even what

I may be described as " eartli crackles, " from the syste-

I matic tabulation of which some authorities consider that

' more is to be learnt than from the more noticeable

shocks.

It will, however, be necessary to keep a watchful eye
upon earthquakes arising from the use of dynamite,
which is being distributed in considerable quantities to
various mining and tunnelling works, and as a compara-
tively new thing in Japan, is very popular. Rival
importers have afforded no little amusement by their
fulminations in the press ; and experimental demon-
strations by the pushing bagmen who have visited
Japan have been carried out in all sorts of places. I
remember one set of these experiments that was worked
through in the grounds of the Naval College in Tokiyo,
under the patronage of the Ministers of the Navy, Army,
and Public Works. The trials to demonstrate the
harmlessness of the material when you don't want it to
explode fell extremely fiat ; but anything like mischief
" fetched " the crowd wonderfully, and it was a glorious

292 EIGHT YEARS Iff JAPAN.

sight to see the big wigs standing in a row, and saying
" Pah-h-h-h-H ! " at each explosion.

In the beginning of June, I was very nearly burnt
out again, for I was by this time housekeeping again
by myself, in a cosy little Japanese-built dwelling on the
hill about a mile from the terminus, from the upstair
rooms of which I had a good view of the flags of ail
the legations, from the Union Jack of Old England,
associated in the minds of British subjects with the
five-dollar poll tax, to the dragon of China, a featfcl
fowl on a windy day. I was absent this time, for it wa
about the hour of the afternoon when hard-workii%
foreigners alleviate their toil by social exerdses at the
Shiba Club ; and by the time I knew that the trouble
was in my direction, the conflagration was all ov«(
fortunately stopping short by one house of my own
little diggings. The fire broke out in a bath-hous^ > ,
gust of wind, of course, bearing the flame, and cli
away over three hundred houses in half an hour,
detachment of railway men rushed up from the stal
at the first alarm, and cleared out all my belonj
including a new suite of dining-room furniture
a Pleyel ; fortunately of the type that was proved ia
Franco-German War to be the only one that
survive being pitched out of a second-floor wint
The crockery was dropped into the pond in the
but the heavier articles were thrown down a bank
feet high, and hauled up again when it was found
the fire was after them owing to a change of wind,
then were carted over to a temple hard by. As I
insured this time I received compensation for the

TOKIYO. 293

I lione; but my friend Hugo, an amateur fireman of
I renowD, whose ardour and axe were a terror only second
to the devouring element itself, was imperfectly consoled
I for a broken head by finding that I had taken the last
[ calamity as a warning to make myself safe in future.

My household, however, was utterly disoi^anized. As
(usual when a fire occurs, sak^ is also present in large
piantitics, and all hands drink freely. I had gone off"
rith Hugo to get some dinner, and on my return found
that there had been a row in the house, after the
furniture had all been brought back. My cook, who was
a punctilious man of superior class, put on his best
clothes, and commanded his inferior, the house-boy, to
accompany him on a round of ceremonial visits to the
neighbours who had not been burnt out to congratulate
them. The boy, who felt more like going to sleep,
I should suppose, than toddling round with the cook,
refused to leave the premises, alleging, with some reason,
that there were a number of light-fingered characters
about, and that the gardener and himself were not too
many to look after the safety of their master's goods
and chattels. The cook thereupon saluted the boy as a
"chikiisho," or beast of low degree, and the boy smote

I the cook ; and the latter retaliated with a bottle, and
liaving stretched the boy on the floor in a senseless
and bleeding condition, set out on his round of visits.
So when I returned I found the boy streaming with
blood and tears and very drunk ; the cook absent on
ceremonial duty; and the gardener voluble but unin-
telligible : so the only thing to be done was to wash and

f bind up the boy's wounds, and wait for the morning.

BIGHT YEARS IK JAPAN.

Next day he was sober and sullen, and explained ta
me in grave and wc)l-chosen language that, thougt:|
he had always found me personally an eminently satis-
factory person to deal with, he couldn't abide that coo!^
and therefore begged permission to leave my service.
After a vain attempt to reconcile the two, which was
rendered futile by the haughty bearing of the superior
person from the kitchen, I let the boy go, and thought
that with time, and a highly recommended new boy
from a conscientious household that only employed
Christians, I might settle down again. But about t
month after tliis, as I was about retiring to roost on<
evening, the cook entered my sitting-room, and with
apologies, exhibited his head in a highly damaged
condition ; and I found that he had set out to go homfl
to the quarters at Shimbashi where he lived still with hid
family, and had been waylaid and assaulted by the laW
boy. I took him down to the police station, and thert
found the boy in custody and in a state of exuberani
glee, having completely re-established his self-resped
by pitching into the cook with a crooked stick witll
a nail in the end of it. This time the cook had to tx
washed and bound up ; and after the officere had
examined both parties, and ascertained that the boy haj
left my service at his own request, they informed me thai
the matter would be dealt with according to Japanese
law, and I went home to bed ; so did the cook.

Next day I had the curiosity to consult the JapancS
criminal code, as translated by Longford of the CoO
sular Service, and published in the transactions of A
Asiatic Society of Japan ; and so far as I could mak

TOKIVO.

29S

the matter out, it would depend upon a variety of
Drcum stances, such as the age of!the culprit's mother,
Ihc size of the nail, and the rank of the parties con-
nied, whether the boy would be hung or let olif with
Siirty days' hard labour. In the event the cook made a
tcclaration that he bore no malice, and on the contrary
larded the boy as an estimable person; and the boy
having said as much for the cook, the police concluded
to look upon the affair, including the first fracas, as
merely a misunderstanding between two persons of quick
temper and nice .sense of honour ; and the boy got off
without any penalty whatever. 1 was the chief and
ultimate sufferer, for the Christian boy was soon
"wanted " by the police for theft from a former em-
ployer, and my landlord coming to the conclusion that
I was not happy in my domestic arrangements, turned
E out of the comfortable little house as soon as the
first legal term expired.

In the middle of June, the Mikado set out on his
sual tour, attended to the outskirts of the city by a
Bt concourse of officials. This year an arrangement
most of the nature of a Regency was made, the central
■nment being confided to Arisugawa-no-Miya, uncle
'the Mikado, and father of the heir presumptive to the
The "Jishin," now become almost an annual
Ititution, was in full progress at the time, which may
Ive suggested the propriety of the new appointment.
s said that a new telegraphic cypher was devised,
enable the most confidential exchange of ideas
n the Sovereign and his representative in the
J^ital to be effected. It was also, I believe, at this

296

EIGHT YEARS Iff JAPAW.

time that a radical change in the bureaucratic constittf
tion of the government was made by Imperial decree
the Council of State being composed thenceforward d
ministers without portfolios (except in the case of tho
Minister of Foreign Affairs, who for obvious n
retained the immediate control of his Department), the
actual administrative heads being subordinated
committees of the Council.

( 297 )

CHAPTER XIV.

TOKIYO AND HAKONE (1880-1).

NE and July were in Tdkiyo this year peculiarly

ing, owing to the lateness of the wet season, coin-

:ing with a higher temperature than usual. I contrived

get away in the beginning of August to the hills, not

Tore a change was required, though at that very time

;e climate of the capital was more endurable than it

been for six weeks previous ; and I came back

into the extremest heat and fell sick, as it happened,

before the end of the month. As It was, I could not

venture upon an extended tour, but only lay off in

the hills for about seventeen days, enjoying the rest

greatly.

My point was Hakon^, the place at which I had
rested one night in 1878, on my return from Fujisan. It
is a favourite resort in summer for the Tokiyo and
Yokohama missionaries, and for such other foreigners as
are lucky enough to be able to get away from their
business. With an early start, the journey is easily
practicable in one day; but I had to transact business
in the morning of the day I left Tokiyo, and only left
Kanagawa, the railway station next to Yokohama,

EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN.

about noon, taking jinrikishas along the Tokaido, i
eastern coast road, that here leaves the shores of tt
Bay of Yedo and cuts across the neck of the peninsul
of Sagami to the coast of the Bay of Odawara. I vii
bound west, of course ; but the principal roads are sti
named according to their bearings from Kiyoto, the oli
capital, though distances are generally reckoned froi
Nihonbashi, a bridge in the centre of Tokiyo, and sup
posed by the Japanese to bear the same relation toth
habitable world that in America is attributed t6 the oal
on Boston Common.

The route was a mere retracing of my steps tw
years before — for the first day, at all events. Beini
accompanied by my worthy cook, who was of cours
entrusted with the hiring of jinrikishas, and who couldn'
reconcile it to his conscience to submit as I would hav
done, to the palpable swindles of the coolies, in col
lusion with the officers of the transport company s
Kanagawa and Fujisavva, there was some delay,
knew better than to interfere, but threw myself intolh
fastest going machine, and got ahead independently, i
the confidence that the cook would follow me to th
death. For an unencumbered traveller, a little dectsio
is all that is wanted to secure a respectable rate (
progress, — and I got along merrily enough, by tl
simple process of leaving my team as soon as th*
became restive or dilatory, and walking a few yards ti
I met with other men in want of a job, getting into th*
vehicle and settling terms as we went along. If yc
once get the fellows going without advancing mone
they work till they get it; if you make any payment

TOKIYO AND HAKONE.

299

Starting, they chaffer all along the road with disengaged
men till they have sold you, realizing a small balance
that represents a high rate of pay for a mile or two.

The road was in a very bad state, and I was once

thrown out of my vehicle ; but experience had taught

c always to ride with disengaged feet, so that I was

flerally, in case of a spill or breakdown, the one of the

irty who came off best, and the ineradicable impulse

any practised driver to get at his horses' heads if the

Ip goes over actually enabled me to save the men

mctimes, to their abiding astonishment, — thereby

oving, after John Mytton's fashion, that it is always a

od thing to have been upset out of a dog-cart. Morc-

er, it was dark before I reached Odawara, one of those

ffns so characteristic of Japan, in which the neighbour-

of a mountain pass is made the excuse for what to

ideas is a somewhat too liberal and comprehensive

[Kovision of creature comforts, freely exposed for the

temptation of the traveller who keeps an even balance

between hardships and sensualities by partaking of them

ia alternation. As this was the height of the pilgrim

teason, it was no use looking for a lodging here, or at

By place on the main road ; so after waiting a while to

pvemyboya chance of rejoining, and to make inquiries

to the best means of getting forward, I left a supply

tfcash for him at the transport office (which is one of

tbe transactions one may venture upon with a Japanese

Bfficial in perfect confidence), and took wheels for Tono-

Bwa; this place being a little off the main road, up the

kfyanoshlta valley, was, I heard, free from pilgrims. I

fved there about eleven o'clock, and found good

4
I

300 EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN.

lodging and a fair supper ; my servant and b^gage
arrived two hours later.

Next morning I had to descend the valley about a
mile, to strike the main road again, and climb the Hata
pass ; this part of the way being new to me, as in 187S
I had gone round by Ashinoyu and Mfyanoshiti In my
debilitated state I found the walk rather severe, having a
hot sun full on my back as I toiled up over the rougii
paving of the steep pitches ; but there is no known
method of progression over this kind of road more satis-
factory than the use of Shanks his mare, so long as thai
useful animal has any legs or wind at all ; and as the
Japanese say, the only difference behveen one mile and
three thousand is in the number of steps you make to get
to the end of them. I found it almost impossible to resist
the tempting bright spring water that was offered bythe
keepers of the little shanties at every quarter of a mile
or so, or the cool pears that you chew but don't swallow,
for they turn to sawdust instead of pulp : indulgence in
such things is, however, death to one's bellows. A little
more than half-way up is the village of Hata, a mefe
hamlet of about forty houses, given over to the wil/
venders of turned ware or mosaic veneer, in eveiy
shape from candlesticks to cabinets. At last I sawlbe
twin hill-tops that I remembered as being close to
Ashinoyu, and was soon at the summit and looking
down upon the lovely lake with its surrounding hiUsi
and the level crown of old Fuji opposite above the
clouds. Then I plunged down the two or three hundred
feet that intervene between the top of the pass and fil6
strand, and trudged gaily along the winding road amooC

TOKIYO A.VD HAKONE.

the trees by the margin of the lake ; till, turning the
little wooded mound that hides the village from the
approaching traveller, I came plump into the middle of
the mid-day procession of mammas, children, nurses, and
beggars of Hakon^ in full season ! but hurried by to
make myself presentable for a plunge into the ecstasy of
utter idleness,

I had cautioned my people in Tokiyo to forward no
letters or communication of any kind, unless my house
was burnt, or a smash occurred on the railway; and in
either of those events, to send if possible to a wrong
address. I had, therefore, a fortnight to revel in, and
laid out my plans accordingly, first announcing myself
as ready to help any person who might want assistance
in the task of doing nothing against time.

The previous season, I am sorry to say, had been
utterly spoilt by the presence in Hakon^ of some
energetic young men, who would still be doing. They
made love to the ladies, for which I don't blame them, —
I once loved my neighbour, a long time ago ; — but they
quarrelled over it, which was disgusting, and they
caricatured their enemies in a so-called Punch, of
which two numbers appeared, bristling with gross
personalities and — well, unrefined sketches ; so that
the place became a bear-garden, and the foundations
were laid of lasting enmities and eager scandal. Those
energetic young men are wiser now, I trow,

The village consists of perhaps a hundred houses,
whereof some twenty are tea-houses, and the remainder
shops or farmers' cottages, the owners of the best of
which turn an honest penny in the summer by taking

303

EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN.

in visitors, Japanese or foreign — the ordinary state of
things being here reversed, and the foreigners being-
crammed together in a way that would startle an/
Japanese above the station of a coolie. I should suppose
that in the season nearly a hundred foreigners find
lodging of some sort or another — mostly of the other—
at one time in Hakond I was a little astonished when
going to pay my respects to a friend whose household
consisted of himself, two ladies, two children, two nurses,
a cook, and a house boy, to find that they were all lodged
in a cottage that under ordinary circumstances would
have been thought crowded by a farmer's family of the
same dimensions. How it was arranged I could not
make out ; but our calls were generally effected by using
the street as a parlour, and an umbrella as a drawing-
room.

My bachelor friend and myself were luxurious people
— we had each a bedroom, and a sitting-room betireen
us. and a wide verandah round two sides, with a bath-
room in the far corner, gave us a sheltered promenade
overlooking the lake. A fourth room, opening into »
court, approached through the principal tea-house, to
which our pavilion was an appurtenance, accommodaleo
two servants. Upstairs was a similar extent of accom-
modation, tenanted by two ladies, two babies, a nursft
and a cook — acquaintances of ours ; and we th(
ourselves like the Smiths of London, quite the to]
people of the place. We were all subject to the sway
one of the ladies, whose beneficent rule was peace
she went abroad with a chatelaine, which included a
of scissors, a corkscrew, a sheath knife, a lancet, a

TOKIYO AHD HAICONE.

303

saw, a tourniquet, a steel box containing surgical
mysteries, and a horrid display of tooth-drawing instru-
ments, that echoed amid the hills and vales, like the
accoutrements of a regiment of cavalry at a sharp trot, —
and destroyed by sheer terror, the local organization of
thieves and armed robbers, who fled before the gruesome
sight and paralyzing sound. It was well they did not
know, as we did, that the good creature had probably
never operated upon any living thing, and would not
have harmed a fly.

My companion had a canoe, and larger boats could
be hired. We had rods and lines, and could find bait-
flies didn't work somehow ; so we passed great part of
our time upon the lake, or perched upon huge rocks at
its margin, and caught many fish, lively but uneatable,
and always hoped to hook one that might weigh a
pound. On wet days we read novels or played chess —
or whist when the ladies would join us ; on cool days we
strolled to Gon-gen-sama, — the shrine of the village,
about a mile and a half away, round the shore of the
lake, under the flank of a big hill ; or even struggled to
Ashinoyii for a sulphur bath, or over the western summit
(for the village and lake lie in a hollow, as may be
supposed, though two thousand feet above the sea), and
down the pass towards Mishima, till the southern slope of
■fuji, and the lovely bayof Suruga feasted our eyes. At
Bllines when we suspected ourselves of energy, we made
longer expeditions, to return tired and cross, and to lie
on long chairs or on the matted floors, till sleep brought
us peace and good-humour on awakening.

It is difiicult to account for the persistent statements

30*

EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN.

It CTBttf)

of visitors that Hakone lake occupies an ancient
neither the deep hollow filled by the lake, nor the'
surrounding hills, have the shape of a volcanic vent
The barrier that closes up the head of the lake, and on
which the village stands, rises only two or three hundre)
feet above the water ; and within half a mile is the head
of a deep gorge conducting the drainage from higher
slopes towards the sea. The outlet of the lake is at Ihe
extremity remote from the village, and the ever-fiowinf
stream takes a very circuitous course, first north, and then
east, reaciiing the sea near Odawara at last, after
traversing a tortuous ravine more than three times M
long as the direct line from the head of the lake to the
ocean. A line of gradual upheaval, running nearly eist |
and west through the centre of Fuji, would account for
the deep eroded gorge of the stream and the ultimate
formation of the lake in what had previously been the head
of a valley deep amid primaeval hills. The cone of Fuji
apparently stands abou t a point of least resistance on such
a line, within a considerable distance in either direction.
Apropos of lakes and their formation, the maps of
Lake Biwa that are to be found everywhere in the
neighbourhood of that fresh-water sea, contain a note
to the effect that the hollow it occupies was formed
simultaneously with the elevation of Fuji by transfef
of material,— by the gods, of course. As they are nearly
a hundred and fifty miles apart, and it was all done,
as things invariably are in ancient writ, in a day or
a night, there is some excuse for the somewhat profane
utterance of one of my cadets in 1874, "I thi nk— |
god — very good engineer 1 "

ItlKiYO AND HAKONE. 305

rBut people who like to find a truth, or the possibility

it, underlying a puerile tradition, may suppose with

that the great lake of Biwa is simply a river basin,

*hich numerous tributaries united in one great

tile head waters of the former being still visible

the separate rivers that flow into the lake, and the

lier course of the latter still existing in the Yodo-gawa

U flows into the sea at Osaka ; but with an intervening

itrict of upheaval, with a deep eroded river-course

tough it, possibly on an axis that may be connected

& the vent of subterranean forces at Fuji.

We didn't bother ourselves with researches into

ologica] mysteries, however, in those pleasant days

Hakon^. In Fuji itself, the finest single mountain

the world, — so an American authority, I believe, has

led it, and the world ought to be thankful for such

instance of American enthusiasm anent things, outre-

r,— we did indeed find a continual feast for our eyes,

■t followed untiringly, from each point of view we

visited, the harmonious slopes that lead up to the

summit. About fifteen to twenty miles is a good range

at which to admire Fuji ; to go nearer is much as if one

should apply a microscope to a fair one's dimples.

Never again, oh friends ! Once have I seen — no I didn't

though — the prospect that Fuji's lofty head commands ;

1 will live and die content with the prospect of Fuji,

head and zone and — suppose we say skirts.

The knot of hills about Hakone, is just at the neck
of the peninsula of Idzii, and by going a few miles south
along the ridge, by the track that leads to Atami,
comes to a spot called Jikkoku-tog^ {the pass of ten

306

EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAIf-

provinces), because from the high ground just adjacent
to the path one can see portions of so many of the old
territorial divisions of the country. As the spot iuelf
is beyond the general coast line, one can see from
Totomi on the west to Kadzusa and Awa on the east,
with all the intermediate coast to the shores of Idzu on
either hand, and many points are to be identified far
inland. Our expedition in this direction was a little
unfortunate, for our cMtelaine sprained her ankle;
and the return, bearing the disabled chieftatness in the
basket " kago," that had originally contained our
provisions for the day, but was designed for its ultimate
purpose, was so delayed that husbands came out with
torches to hunt for us in the moonlight. This jaunt
was, therefore, considered to be so near an approach W
energy as to amount to bad taste ; and we relapsed into
inanition accordingly, to the preservation of our good
repute and mutual kindliness.

This kind of thing could not, however, last for lot^;
and I tore myself away from the little society in the
hills, where our shaded thermometers never rose above
80° Fahr., and descended to the metropolis and 95°, W
preside over the meeting of the 21st August, when my
second detachment of holiday-making staff returned
from their twenty days' leave, to relieve the third batch.
I was disappointed though by the non-appearance of one
of my leading cadets, who telegraphed to say he was laid,
up with sunstroke. When he did appear, ten days latet;^
he replied to my really anxious inquiry after his health,
by saying that " it was true the doctor had said he had
sunstroke, but for his part he thought the wiae L

TOKIYO AND HAKONE. 307

■lountiy was too strong!" I could only counsel him
avoid strong wine, and cleave to the truth always;
Hh of which precepts he declared himself steadily
rposcd to observe for the future. I had then leisure
put myself in the doctor's hands — for the first time for
years.

I found society greatly disorganized by the disagree-

'sble behaviour of the paper currency, in which people

re generally beginning to lose confidence, after specu-

for the rise had been mostly ruined. The

mncial Committee of the Council of State were sorely

[Crcised in their minds, and their advisers were rapidly

iroaching their wits' end. One learned pundit did me

honour of asking what conclusions I shnuld draw

a certain diagram, size of life, on which were

■ious lines horizontal, inclined, wavy, mountainous,

itersecting, or diverging, of all the colours his wife's

sketching apparatus would furnish ; and contrived so

as to exhibit the concurrent variations, over a series

of years, of the export of precious metals, import of

merchantable goods, maxima and minima of exchange

rates, volume and nominal and equivalent values of the

paper currency, and so forth, at a glance. He was trying

to discover what influence, if any, one element had upon

the others ; and like the prize-fighter celebrated in

Punch's hexameters, who was induced by a rap on the

Coddle to look nine ways for Sunday, he "finally failed

to perceive it." I was no wiser ; so after imploring his

i%ife to save the nation by getting some more moist

Colours, he went off to a meeting of the Deutsche Ost-

^sicns Gesellschaft fiir Natur-und Volker-kunde as

308 EIGHT YEARS Iff "JAPAN,

a relaxation, and left us to our Schumann and our
Schubert.

This year wc had the most violent typhoon that
occurred during my limited experience of the climes
liable to that visitation. The path of it seemed to
follow tlie south-eastern coast from Tosa to Kadzusa,
and considerable devastation was wrought throughout
that length of the country, some four hundred miles.
Certainly the feeling of insecurity it impressed upon
myself, during the fiercest of the blow, far exceeded
any effect of that kind produced by the earthquakes I
had gone through. I was still in my Japanese houK
a very substantial and well-built one. and was roused
from my slumbers in the " ni-kai " (upper story) by tiie
motion of the building, which warned me to seek tlwt
part of the ground floor where there might be leist
above to fall on rae when the crash came. Fortunatelj'
it didn't come at all ; and after two or three hours—
during which I could hear enough going on outside to
prevent my going out so long as there was any "in"—
I returned to my couch and slept peacefully. Nort
morning Tokiyo looked as I should imagine a bom-
barded city would, conflagrations apart — for, fortunatelyi
owing to the lateness of the hour, all fires were out
Roofs were stripped of tiles, gable-ends blown in, fencO
and boundary wails rolled over in all directions, ami
some few houses blown bodily down, to the destrwctioo
of the unlucky dwellers therein. One quite new hots*
hard by the station fell suddenly by the collapse of iB
supports, killing, it was said, thirteen inmates; ano
other similar casualties, out of my own range of obser

TOKZYO AND IIAKONE.

vation, were reported. At Kobe the boat-house and
[ymnasium, the pride of the settlement, were utterly
l^troyed, and the Union Church so damaged that it
id to be pulled down and rebuilt.

We were not great athletes in Tokiyo, being mostly
liddie-aged parties, who had seen the vanity of such
and were devoted to whist and the growth of
mistcoats. But we had a few healthy people amongst
IB, who united to get up a cricket club, and who prac-
assiduously, in the hope of walloping Yokohama,
first bout was, I regret to say, described by the
press as "a complete farce ;" but we did better in
tte return match against something under our adver-
wrics' full strength, and returned to Tokiyo to be
ffreeted with approbation at the Foreign Minister's
reception the same evening. In my own opinion, the
practice was better fun than the matches; and we
succeeded in bringing in aspirants to the honours of
tie bat from unexpected quarters. One well-known
sinologue, whom I induced to play after a twenty years'
innocence of bat and ball, said afterwards that it was
the most delicious sensation possible to have nothing
on his mind except how to avoid being killed ; he forgot
completely for the time all things Japanese, Chinese,
and Corean. his usual preoccupation ; and in his enthu-
siasm volunteered to score for us at Yokohama. He
had relapsed, however, by the time the occasion came
about, having hurt himself, so I was told, in an attempt
to invent a forty- two- stroke character that might stand
ideologically for cricket in polite Chinese literature. I
,^ve no doubt he will succeed, for the idea involved is

3IO EIGHT YEARS Iff JAPAN.

not absurdly complex beside that attached to a simple
character which means, so I am told, "on descending
from a pack-horse and putting on sandals to walk in, to
find one string is broken." I must, however, warn the
reader that the same person who explained the above
to me said that Sir Thomas Wade had submitted to
Li-hung-chang a new character that was at once recog-
nized as signifying "a revoke," and perhaps it will be
as well to form a general estimate of the credibility «
the witness. I can only say that he ought to knw,
and he oughtn't to tell " tarradiddles," as Thackeray
called them.

All this time my new house at Shimbasi was pro-
gressing nicely, and I was already looking forward to
settling down in it, and calculating how many friends
of a year ago would be left to help at a house-warming,
when the " irony of fate " intervened. Thomas lie
elder, and the more silent, who had been in charge al
Kobe for the last four years, had resigned ; and I wis
to succeed him in what was officially looked upon as i
more important charge than that I had been so (at
invested with, though they were on a par as to title and
relations with authority. Thomas the younger was
already on the move, so that I had the prospect-
realized, alas! within a few months— of being the sole
survivor of the engineering staff of 1873-4, and earlier.

My residence in the capital was thus drawing to a
close ; and I was not altogether sorry, much as I liked
the place and the people. For the really important
work of renewing and rebuilding the tittle line had beeo
brought to a virtual termination, and such remainiof

TOKIYO AND HAKONE. 31 1

improvements as were in hand called for no vigour 111
administration ; and as the prospect of the extension
work in the neighbourhood of the capital and onward
into Joshiu faded away, now the promoters of railway-
making found that they had altogether overlooked the
serious side of the process, and didn't like to lay aside
their fancies and take up stern facts ; so I had turned
my eyes elsewhere for work of interest, and rested them
upon Kobe. But at the same time there was sufficient
doubt as to the effect of more important causes than
the retirement of one wearied engineer and the substitu-
tion of another, to warn me that the " majority " of the
ign civil servants of Japan were beckoning me to
them, benevolently ready to make easy the passage
■probably soon to be necessary — to " another sphere."
while I still hoped, I was not unduly sanguine, and
event showed 1 was so far in the right.
I do not propose to trouble the reader with any
uled account of the doings within my department
lat led, within a year of my transfer to Kobe, to my
retirement from the service. But a sketch of some of
Ihe general conditions affecting foreigners in the employ-
ment of the government of Japan, may not be out of

Long before the period we had now reached, the
lys had passed away in which people, even of sanguine
iposition, could look forward to an energetic persever-
ice by the Japanese as a nation, in a course the earlier
;ps of which had required a great expenditure of moral
[Our, and had been attended by disorganization of the
rhole social and economical system of the country. The

3 I 2 EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN.

pressure of an enormous tax upon the moral as well as
the material resources of the nation, necessary to maiatain
the departments of modernized government in effective
action, had brought home to all honest thinkers the
absolute indispensabllity of economy in a!l branches of
the government service, and of easy rather than rapid
progress, — so as to give breathing time to a harassed
constitution, drained at once by the task of modifying
its accustomed forms of action, and by the effects of
old and deeply seated vices inherited by the generation
of transition. Everywhere was tension, fatigue, and a
cry for relief.

I have before stated my belief that the measures
taken by the government (that is the Council of State
advising the sovereign) to reduce or commute pensions
and relieve the agricultural classes of a part of their
imposts, were, in spite of some drawbacks and attendant
evils, politically wise and beneficial to the nation as 3
whole, and I am inclined to think it probable that the
continued existence of the government in its present
form is due to that policy. But for the relief thus
afforded to the great bulk of the producing but backward
classes, Japan must, it seems to me, have succumbed
to the organic troubles attending her conversion to
modem ideas. It is, however, rarely that one hears this
act of statesmanship referred to in terms at all adequate
to express the approval that should be accorded to it
by all thoughtful minds. Sometimes we find the perma-
nence of the bureaucracy, the virtual form of govern-
ment, in the personnel of which scarcely any Japanese
proposes to put any faith or confidence, wondered at

TOKIYO AND IIAKONE.

i those who do not see that the cry of progress to
Aicii the nation once responded, is for the time in abey-
ce, and that the cry now is rightly for time to make
ood the drain caused by the progress so far effected —
Siich cry and the necessity that evoked it, the govern-
ffit of the Mikado has not failed to recognize.
Like a youth who has been growing too fast, the
Kion has a period of delicacy to work through before
: full vigour of its maturity can be developed ; and
E power that has said, " Do not trouble to equal or
wl your fellows just now : lay in a stock of strength,
nd grow out to your stature first," is the most benefi-
ent parent of future effort.

But it is open to any one to allege, els I do, that in
great number of cases the appearance has been taken
t the reality of the required relief, and a false economy
I been put in the place of judicious maintenance of
ective power. I believe it may be said that there are
ify two remunerative undertakings that have been
Brked out by national funds — the railways and the tele-
aphs. Manufacturing and commercial concerns, having
B command of government money, have sprung up in
[directions and resulted only in the transfer of public
Dds to private pockets ; and it is only lately that the
iy of continuing in such a course has been recognized
i an attempt made to realize something out of the
rtnerships between the various departments and the
nnoters of the many concerns that have been parasiti-
Jly fastened upon them. The utter worthlcssness of
t vast majority of these concerns was at once proved
POQ inquiry, and the taxpayers have at last awakened

314 EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN.

to the consciousness that they have been robbed under
specious pretences, such as assisting commercial progress,
establishing manufactures that might obviate the neces-
sity of imports, and demonstrating the genius and ability
of Japanese men of business.

This, however, is only a late phase. For years the
government have been hoodwinked by the reports of
subordinates, that great economy had been effected
here, there, and everywhere, by the simple process of
dispensing with the services of foreigners, and every
Japanese commissioner, professor, cadet, or foreman
who could represent himself as competent to supersede
the foreigner, has been applauded for his energy and
hailed as deserving well of his country, without due
examination or check. That a continuous process of
substitution of Japanese for foreigners is entirely justifi-
able by the gradual and efficient attainment by the
former of technical knowledge and sense of responsibility,
is not to be denied — at any rate by one who has for
years been personally concerned in the conduct of an
important undertaking in which such a process has been
kept in view and put in action almost from the first ;
but it is undeniable that the credit of the proceeding,
and of its happy results economically, has been appro-
priated by those who have always been trying to do too
much, and denied to those who have done all that was
possible.

So that after years of faithful service, and ungrudging
co-operation in all that could promote efficiency and
economy, a time comes when the conscientious foreign
civil servant, who has deserved at least a share in the

TOJC/yO AND HAKONE.

3IS

credit his department has won by its success before

the government and the public, retires amid a general

round of congratulations, awarded to each other by his

Japanese colleagues and successors, who can choose

what report shall be made to their departmental or

L ministerial superiors of the circumstances under which

Bdtis continued service has been rendered impossible.

HThey are secure of approval, who have so dealt with

y "one of the least of these ;" and the departing "hired

person," who has probably acquired a certain amount

of cynicism, and if he has been wise, has made provision

for a rainy day, trolls out Ingoldsby's rhyme —

" And still on ihese words of Ihe bnrd keep a fi^sed eye,
Ingralum si dixcna, onmia dixli ! "

In my own case, I may confess the working, long
ter the event, of what seemed an occurrence round
md self-contained enough in all conscience, that was the
■ misfortune that befel me in the early part of the year
1880, by the loss of all my goods and chattels with the
destruction of the house I occupied. During the re-
maining two years of my stay in Japan I was never
L settled down in any way, and, in fact, was less comfort-
kible even, than when in my first two years I was up
Kteuntry on surveying duty. Between February, 1880,
and April of the following year, I had four different
places in succession, wherein to lay my head ; and when
I did get down to Kobe, such elements of uncertainty
I surrounded me as rendered it unadvisable to make
f arrangements that might constitute first a tie and then
I loss. Thus successive removals added to my first
I bereavement ; and at last, when my few odds and ends

3l6 EIGHT YEARS IfT "JAPAN.

were sent to the hammer, to bring me in somi
than half what they cost me, and my renewed library
was simpiy shipped home again, so that outside my hat
and boots I had only tlie wide world and Providence to
trouble me, it was a positive relief, as I anticipated it
would be. A man's lines must indeed be cast in pleasant
places if after eight years' absence his thoughts do not
turn homeward; and as the Japanese service knows bo
such thing as furlough or privilege leave, such thou^t*
are fatal.

My last winter in Tokiyo was tolerably gay. Tboi^
many of my friends had departed, "gone before," man)'
stil! remained ; and in the Public Works Department were
yet two or three congenial colleagues. A gloom wss
over the capital, however, owing to the almost constant
fires that were taking place, of which a large proportion
were attributed to incendiarism : and the clang of the
fire-bell was seldom long absent from our ears. On
February 26th, a tremendous fire rose in the centre of
the city and swept clean out into the open countiy,
destroying about thirteen thousand houses, and clearing
a space that was again and again extended by fires
that seemed started with devilish ingenuity to take
advantage of every change of wind, so that quarters that
could not be attacked with one wind, were at the mercy
of the next. On one occasion the palace itself i*'*^
within an ace of being burnt down ; only a sudden change
of wind saved it, after the alarm guns had been fired
and the garrison turned out Officials of all grade
rushed to the scene, and while the Mikado was prcpari"?
to move over to another residence — of course with gre**

TOKIYO AND HAKQNE. 31/

mony, it being a point of honour and custom for
feh and exalted personages only to flee before fire
■n dressed in stale robes anJ surrounded by their
ional retinue, ^ — the courts of the palace were crowded
ith horsemen, drenched with water from the roofs and
Ipping on the sheets of ice that soon covered the
«ments, and with courtiers waiting stolidly for the
smonial of departure. The danger was averted,
:unatcly; but the frosty streets were gay for hours
h the lanterns of those going and returning, and the
re of the expiring flames reflected from sabre and
iyonet and glittering harness.

Strange tales were abroad of boys bribed by masked
Bd disguised men to fire vacant houses ; of notices
Bted at night at street corners, warning the inhabitants
certain districts that their dwellings would be burnt
wn "at the first convenient opportunity;" and of
^sequent notices, in the depth of winter when soow
1 and thawed and the city was deep in mud, that
E" conflagrations had been postponed on account of
t inclemency of the season." When at last we did
t a week without a great fire, a load was lifted off the
ind of each dweller in the capital ; but the householders
the various wards continued to band togetlicr, raising
ids to pay the rent of ail houses that felt vacant, so as
induce tenants to occupy them : as such untenanted
id unwatched premises gave the likeliest chances to be
ized by an incendiary.
On the 1st of March, the second great National
dustrial Exhibition was opened by the Mikado with
1 imposing ceremony lasting from half-past eight till

3i8

EIGHT YEARS IN yAPANi

two. This exhibition was a great advance upon that
of three years and a half earlier, which I visited in my
first month of residence in Tokiyo ; and was indeed on
a far different and more comprehensive scale — if anything
a trifle too comprehensive, for the contrast between some
excellent works of an Italian artist in the employ of the
government and the wretched imitative atrocities of
native students hard by was ghastly ; and the mind
must indeed have been farseeing that could discern
B promise of future success in Japanese studies of foreign
art-methods. But in the galleries devoted to modem
examples of the pottery, porcelain, bronzes, or textile
fabrics, embodying the traditional arts peculiarly
Japanese, and profiting by improved and yet bolder
processes of execution, while continuing the search after
nature's bounty of form and expression, — one could
find enough to repay day after day of admiring and
sympathetic scrutiny.

The art works and Imperial reception-rooms were in
a permanent building designed by an English architect,
Josiah Conder, whose residence of some years in the
capital and observation of Japanese requirements and
possibilities enabled him to produce a work worthy of
the purpose and the situation. A nobly proportioned
and simply graceful front, crowned by dome and minaret,
and indicating by the spacing of its windows and arcades
the purpose that called it into being, stands in a clearing
flanked by fine trees, and approached through a park that
is one of the prides of Tokiyo. This is probably the most
successful of the modern buildings of the city, which,
however, can now boast some fine examples of architec-

TOKIYO AND ITAKONB.

319

tare, chiefly works of the above-named gentleman and
of M. de Boinville, who was for several years architect to
the Public Works Department. There arc also buildings,
copies more or less of foreign examples, which, by their
mass and in their several sites, add dignity to the capital
and contrast admirably with the "packing-case" and
"cheap toy" styles of earlier efforts, so prevalent in
Japanese cities since the age of progress commenced.

In addition to the permanent building referred to
above, there were several large and lofty wooden annexes
devoted to the purposes of the exhibition, and containing
products, manufactures, and models from all parts of the
empire. It was a subject of regret to myself that our
purely utilitarian department contributed nothing to
the display ; but railway exhibits would for the most part
havebeenout of place in a collection of native productions
up to the present time. Later no doubt national pride
may find justification in the original work of Japanese
engineers ; and I have quite agreed with those who think
that the circumstances surrounding — and, if rightly taken,
in some degree characterizing — work in Japan demand
a large measure of originality, rather than mere perfunc-
tory following of precedent. It is, however, a considera-
tion not to be overlooked, that tried and proved methods
are most consistent with the public safety, for which
;cngineers and other railway men are held responsible.

In the month of April, i88r, I left Tokiyo for Kobe;
and the events of the succeeding twelvemonth are yet
too recent to be fitly chronicled. Some interval of
consideration, and the utilizing of new lights afforded
by varying points of view, make in most cases all the

320

EIGHT VEARS IN JAPAN.

difference between a reasonable charity and the u
ing want of it ; and after all, eight years and a half of
earnest work and the fruits thereof, cannot be vitiated
by a small group of circumstances attending the close
of what is not an unimportant portion of a professional
man's life. It is no bad thing to have added the chief
places in a far-off land to the list of those that have
seen us in the execution of work, and the discharge of
responsibility, and have afforded opportunity for the for-
mation of friendships that may last, or for co-operation
with acquaintances who may not wholly condemn, when
memoiy is the chief witness in the cause. In the moral
as well as in the physical world, such as we are may
perhaps hope that our accomplished work, spite of faults
in intention, comprehension, and execution, may have
tended to make "the crooked straight, and the rough
places plain."

C 321 )

CHAPTER XV.

JOURNEY FROM NAGASAKI TO KOBE (1882).

On the night of the 3rd March, 1S82. I went on

board the Genkai Mnnt, then lying in Kobe harbour,

bound to start with the daylight for Nagasaki {where

my passage was to terminate) and Shanghai. The

friends with whom I had been staying since my own

establishment had been broken up were early birds, — in

going to roost at least, — so I took leave of them shortly

after dinner, and having previously sent servant and

jgage on board, was able to stroll round by the club

and assist in the discussions usually found in progress

within the walls of the noble institution, from ten o'clock

to midnight, — to wit, the rightful interpretation of treaty

clauses having reference to forbidden or permitted

exports and imports ; the value of the American Consul's

long clubs, and the mora! turpitude of his unapprcciative

partner ; and the probability of another naval oiTicer

rolling his ball off the alley thirty consecutive times in

the next bowling match. Without venturing to assert

that complete harmony was established in the minds of

the members present upon all these points, I may

laintain that I was justified in believing that good

EIGHT YEARS m JAPAf^.

feeling, mutual charity, and common ignorance would, ii
the end, triumph over all obstacles, and that I mighi
therefore withdraw with a clear conscience before mid-
night. So I smoked my final cigar as I paced the deck of
the steamer, having ascertained that 1 was not "doubled
up " with any other passenger, strolling calmly backwards
and forwards from the engine skylights to the taffrail,
watching the gradual extinction of lights within the first-
floor windows of the houses on the Bund, and counting
the echoes from the moonlit hills of the last shrieks of
beer-ful Germans seeking their rest

We had started before I was on deck next momingi
and were leaving the straits of Akashi behind us— mn-
ning down the Inland Sea for the northern capes of
Shikoku. Soon after breakfast we met the Takasaip
Maru bound eastward, passing her near enough to
recognize her passengers without the aid of a glass, and
some names (proper of course) familiar enough to the
limited community of the far East were shouted and
responded to. The Takasago is an old P. and O. vessel,
formerly the Delta, but rechristened when she wM
J lacquired by the Mitsu-bishi Mail Steamship Company;
and with her barque rig and neat lines, formed a contrast
to our old staggering side-whceler, formerly the C«W
Rica of the Pacific Mail Company, with her two little
sticks surmounting her tall packing-case of a hull and
upper works. Takasago is the name of a Japanese
port in the Inland Sea, and Genkai that of a strelch
of water among the islands north-east of Kiu-shiu,— the
" dark sea " is, I believe, the import of the charactetJ
composing the name. " Maru," an affix to the names

JOURNEY FROM NAGASAKI TO KOBE. 323

orirading ships, as " Kan" is to those of men-of-war, is a
sortof definite article for special use — much as we say The
Takasago — if we speak as precisians, and regard the use
(rf articles before and behind as pleonastic. But precisians
io Japan are by no means successes, more's the pity,
being generally called upon first to explain, and then to
lie laughed at — and after all making about as many
'aistakes as common people.

Our skipper, learned in tides and currents, selected
*iiat is called the north-west passage that afternoon, as
irbest track through the Archipelago that lies between
be Bigo Nada and the lyo Nada, the two middle
iivisions of the Inland Sea, the two outer ones being
tie Harima Nada, which we had already traversed, and
e Suwo Nada, to be tackled in the coming night,
ich of these open seas takes its name from a neigh-
mring province— Harima, Bigo, and Suwo being on
s main island, and lyo being part of ShikokiJ. Our
ap ran in amongst these islands about half-past three ;
] we kept our skipper company in front of the wheel-
ise, obedient to his summons, as he piloted us through
: tortuous channel, mingling descriptions of the
Irious islands, shoals, and sunken rocks, with adjura-
»s to the quarter -masters who hung on to the double
Eering wheel. The ever-changing views of mountain
1 channel kept us to our post of observation, in spite
■some bitter cold sleet-showers. We passed close to the
9 of the mainland, where the road I was to return
'was seen along the strand, with its border of matsu
; and peeped into the bay of Mihara, some day to
the great dockyard and arsenal of Japan ; and then

324

EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN.

headed away southward for clear water, just as the day-
light faded away.

When I arose on the morning of the Jth we were at
anchor off Shimonoseki, having just run throu^ the
narrowest part of the straits. Here where the mongrel
fleet once lay that administered a much-needed lesson
to the Prince of Choshiu, we had the mainland with
the town to the west of us, while behind us lay the
extreme corner of Kiu-shiu. The whole passage of the
straits takes the form of the letter S, half of which we
had traversed, so that the southern island cut us off from
the Inland Sea, and the half yet to come was round the
cape of the northern island, interposed between us and
the ocean. Only slight vestiges remain of the forts
that once commanded the passage, before their guns
were captured and their lord mulcted in an indemnity
that nobody knows what to do with. The place looks
peaceful enough now — and the town is merely a place of
business for the coasting trade, and depflt for rice.

We had our purser and the mail-bags on board again
by seven o'clock, and started away down the channel,
passinga red beacon that marks the identical half-sunken
rock upon which one of the semi-divine ancestors of the
Imperial House is reported to have passed a very uncom>
fortable half-hour in his infancy ; and turning northward
into the teeth of a hard blow and a swell that made our
vessel pitch to an uncomfortable extent I retired to my
cabin — for reasons — and did not emerge therefrom till
we were in still water under the lee of some islands, when
the fundamental wholesomeness of my constitution came
to the fore again, and I felt all the better for a pint of

JOUR^TEY FROM NAGASAKI TO KOBE.

champagne and a few stories in the style known as
"American humour," with which a thoughtful friend had
provided me, to be taken concurrently with the above-
named medicine in time of trouble. The Japanese, who
now form the bulk of the passengers by these coast boats,
ilways provide themselves with bottles labelled "Ant-
emetic of Nausea Marina " before starting, — and I hope
it does them good. Certainly I remember once seeing a
youth contrive to smash his bottle as he came up the
ladder, and his expression of face thereupon exactly
conveyed the idea that his head was off. until the in-
evitable roar of laughter from the spectators, that in
Japan salutes any mishap from a broken string to a
bloody murder, cut short the situation.

The afternoon was almost as enjoyable as that of the
previous day, and round the coast of Hizen. and amongst
its isles, we went on an even keel, turning in towards
Nagasaki as the moon rose. It was ten o'clock nearly
before we came to an anchor, and as I had no one
^expecting me, I remained on board for the night.
[ Morning revealed a long, narrow, land-locked bay.
hrith steep hills coming down to the water's edge, and
Ml succession of minor bays between the bluffs. Behind
■he settlement, where foreign-style houses and consular
i^flagstaffs predominated, rose a lofty hill, and a higher
' mountain backed the native town, further up the bay.
lA trim gunboat, ilying the Russian ensign, lay off the
Itown, opposite to which is a sort of dockyard belonging
|{by the courtesy of Japan) to the former nation, and a
hnuch less important looking place than I should have
Hmagined, from all the row there was about it in 1878

326

EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAK.

and the following year, when there was talk of conflict
between Russia and England first, and China afterwards.
Several sailing vessels, notably two lai^e barques belong-
ing to the Mitsu-bishi Company, and a variety of small
steamers, were moored here and there, and the place
looked busy, obviously occupied chiefly with shippioB
coal, light lumber, and produce for China.

or course t!ie first thing was to seek the dub and
put one's name down. Then I sought out my friends,
with one of whom I was glad to put up on the hill of
Sa^aramafsu, with an inspiriting view of a noble building
on a newly formed terrace ; a mission school I was told
it was at first, but it turned out to be dwellings, as usujli
for the mission staff. Another old acquaintance, Hugo
to wit, hailed me with enthusiasm, and convoyed aie
round the native town to buy tortuiseshell ware {chicfl/F
I believe, manufactured out of stained cow-hoofs) and
photographs, and to dine at the restaurant of Fukuy*!
overlooking the native town, or rather its cemetsy-
Much Arita pottery also 1 saw, some of it very cheap
and very nasty — adapted for export to Germany, I was
told ; some of it, however, fit to show anywhere for colour
and design.

On the second day I crossed the bay, and introduced
myself to the English manager of the Government
Engineering Works at Akanoura, going with him over
the foundries and fitting-shops of an actively employed
concern, turning out good work, chiefly for the steam
merchant marine ; and then went round the bluff into the
next bay, to see the great dry dock of Tatcgami, buiU
by French engineers, and doing honour to those masters

yOUkNEY FROM NAGASAKI TO KOBE.

327

I of structural and hydraulic science ; big enough to take

I in the lai^est ironclads, and solid enough to stand til!

"crack of doom." Back again to Sagaramafsu, and

to find more new old acquaintances at the club and

tennis ground, and to make fresh excursions into the

native town in search of jade and ivory, products of

China, as often as not sold for Japanese work. Then I

■laid out for my return journey, vainly trying to induce

_ Wifiser men than myself to join in the folly of an overland

I March, of which, as will be seen, I had enough

lefore I had done with it. Even friend Hugo, who at first

Volunteered to go with me as far as Ureshino, and there

take hot baths for his health, deserted me when it came

to the pinch ; and I started alone on the morning of the

3th, on my journey of nearly five hundred miles to Kobe

—a hundred and ninety-eight " ri " I made it altogether,

four hundred and eighty-six miles, by road and coasting

vessel.

The first point was Tokitsu, at the southern ex-
tremity of the bay of Omura. separated from that of
Nagasaki by a double peninsula, one of the many that
go together with a hundred isles to make up the province
of Hizen ; itself a claw of land projecting from the main
body of Kiu-shiu to enclose the Shimabara gulf A
fairly accurate representation of this corner of Japan
may be obtained by pouring a few drops of ink from a
height on to a sheet of paper, and then blowing upon
them from several directions at once. Granted the free
selection of a north point, and a choice whether the ink
shall represent sea or land, you may be said to have it,
near enough for all practical purposes.

i28 EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN.

An hour and a half over a fair road, with only one
hill in it, brought me to Tokitsu, a dirty little port and
fishing town, just an hour too late for the morning
steamer ; so I had to wait till half-past one, devoting
part of the interval to a stroll inland, which ended in my
being escorted to the end of the pier by two hundred
children with straw eye-glasses in imitation of my own
" monocle" and being then forgotten in face of the
superior attraction of an auction of whale's blubber : and
part to a Japanese tiffin. The inhabitants of Tokitsu,
when they go out for a walk, always take with them, as '
we do an umbrella or a stick, each man a trident with a
handle fifteen feet long, and when not busy with boats
or nets, or lobster pots, lounge along the sea-shore and
pick sea-slugs out of the sand, casting them upoti the
world at large, to fertilize it, I suppose, for I could not
see that they took any interest in what became of thai
prey otherwise.

At last we saw our steamer in the distance, and
it drew near to the landing-pier and discharged its
passengers into a small boat, at several relays ; after
which we also made use of the small boat and embarked
in similar fashion, with the result of the tiny craft bdng
so crammed that I thought myself lucky to get a seat
on my portmanteau on top of the cabin, hard by the
funnel, for so I could see what was the general state of
things, and correct as it seemed to me, the faulty trio
of tlie vessel by shifting my seat a few inches one way
or the otlier as occasion required.

The water was smooth, and the day perfectly calm.
and I always think that an inglorious death can't be

JOURNEY FROM NAGASAKI 10 KOBE. 329

fcaigned for me ; so we went along gaily so long as we
*pt a straight course. I confess to a tentative raodifi-
ion of my theory whenever the rudder was put over a
hie ; but still it held good, and the shores and islands
Omura Bay looked pleasant in the sunshine. We
iDed at the village of Omura itself, — the name means
lly " large village," — and picked up more passengers ;
then coasted along through shallows where a channel
buoyed out by floating bamboos tied by straw-
; to sunken stones. Even in the calm water it was
{possible to make these out till we were nearly upon
and how they could assist the pilot if it were
ndy or dark passed my comprehension ; most probably
boats only run in fine weather.

It was nearly sunset when we reached Sosogi,

ither Tokitsu, and binding our baggage upon two

Smrtkishas, started to walk over the pass to Ureshino.

The road was on an easy incline most of the way, and

liad manifestly been lately improved, as the worst part

it was through a village on a hill-side, where any

Station must have destroyed the village altogether.

;ht fell before we reached the summit ; but though

moOD was yet below the horizon the stars shone out

;btly, and I strode ahead of my boy, and the baggage,

ijoying the walk. A little way over the top the

juirikishas passed me ; but I retained the boy, who had a

Imiem, and s. candle alight in it, as we had heard that

the new road down the hill was yet unfinished in places.

So it was ; we crossed some gaps by temporary bridges,

» frail and narrow that I looked down to see if the

;age was not lying in the stream at the bottom ; but

330 EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN.

time and tramping brought us to our destination before
nine o'clock, I was too tired to bother about the bats,
and it seemed, except the public ones, there was no such
thing to be had ; so I made a frugal supper, and slept

Next morning I found the public baths, and paying
at the entrance, examined the interior ; but a look at the
people forbade my entering even medicinal waters in such
company, spite of the callousness engendered by long
experience of Japan and the ways of its sons and
daughters. The baths themselves were well arrange^
a series of square boxes lined with square tiles, and
water — hot and plenty of it — was doing its best for lie
bathers. Unlike most of these bathing stations, at Ure-
shino the women's baths are separated, and if I had m'
blundered in at the wrong door to start with I should
have supposed tlie ladies did not patronize the waters.

I started away at half-past eight, over a very bio
road, insomuch that it took me two hours and a half to
do a little over seven miles, which brought roe to Taki*".
a large and thriving town, also a bathing-place, where
for the first and only time I saw a horse led into the hot
water. The baths lie at the foot of a scarp, with a sort
of square in front, surrounded by tea-houses of a kinu
that travellers, not altogether Japanese, don't care to
enter. Here we changed our vehicles, and made ow
way to Takahashi, a dirty hole where our men, who
had taken the measure of my servant, left us in the lurch
In such case, however, the proper move is to havetifSOi
and by the time that is concluded something is surt
to turn up. It is not often, fortunately, that one has to
delay in a place so unspeakably filthy as TakahashL

JOURNEY FROM NAGASAKI TO KOBE.

From here to Saga the road is level, stony and rough,
and runs through a lot of mean villages. The neighbour-
hood of an important town was betrayed by the coaches
■we met or found standing by the roadside. The bodies
of these vehicles resemble in type those of the grand
chariot in which the band of an itinerant circus goes
about in state ; but they have seats to the same extent
as an egg-box has. and in dimensions are adapted to
accommodate ten Japanese, or say two Europeans. Of
the horses the less said the better ; of the drivers and
cads nothing would induce me to say a word. I resisted
all importunities to engage one of these vehicles, and
shamelessly rode on into Saga in a common jinrikisha.

My boy took me direct lo a place where he believed
there was an inn ; but it turued out that he was mistaken,
and, further, that he had never been in Saga before, nor
met with any one (except our team) who had. But in a
land of telegraphs — for we had struck the main lines
from Nagasaki to Tokiyo at Takiwo — no foreigner need
■be at a loss ; a clerk, or failing that, a porter or office

ittendant of any kind, will always tell you where the
.foreigners used to lodge who were connected with the

[epartment in former days ; and there you may be
inerally accommodated. I found in this way a very
good lodging ; but had to traverse all the principal streets
and two-thirds of the by-streets of this large and flourish-
ing place before I reached it. However, my observation
furnished me with a fact to moralize upon — namely, that
the youth of Saga love riding upon bicycles of a pattern
now obsolete elsewhere. I moralized accordingly, and
slept soundly.

ElGltT YEARS IN JAPAN.

On the iith, I was off early, and traversed tbe re-
maining streets of Saga before leaving the place. Of
the ancient castle only the raoats remain ; but there arc
no end of temples — one, I believe, dedicated to the
memory of Yeto Shimpei, who was beheaded in 1874,
with his chief surviving companions in arms against
the government Such unlucky persons are invariably
rememt)ered kindly after death, — which wipes out all
mistakes, — and credited with motives so good that it is
thought an honour to have fought either with or a^nst
them.

The road from Saga lies across paddy fields fw
several miles, and then over undulating ground of small
elevation, but of a loamy soil that makes miserable
roads ; insomuch that between Tajiro, where we made
our mid-day halt, and Futsuka-ichi I found it best to
walk. A full hour was lost this afternoon, and another
spent, over the temple of Da-zai-fu — a much venerated
shrine, said to have been founded near a thousand yean
ago, and for which I cared as much as a pilgrim does for
a flea. My boy, however, had his reasons for visiting "t-
and from Fulsuka-ichi sent on a jinrikisha to overtake
me, and bring me round by a long circuit while he took
a short cut I resisted being forcibly removed from the
high road, by any couple of unintroduced coolies at then
own good-will and pleasure ; but a glimmering of the
truth at last possessed me, and I consented to be drawn
to the temple, which lies some distance off the road, at
the foot of the loftier hills. I found the boy and the
baggage at an inn hard by the temple gates ; and there
learnt for the first time that I had expressed a con-

yoURNEY FROM NAGASAKI TO KOBE.

■mming desire to visit Da-zai-fu during the whole of
the previous two days. At any rate, it was easy now to
be rid of such desire for evermore, so 1 went into the
enclosure, walked across the whispering bridges, admired
the bronzes, stared at the patriarchal trees and their
patriarchal props and crutches, bought an explanatory
bird's-eye view of the whole fremblement, asked some
questions to which I could get no satisfactory answers,
and turned my back upon the place. There are three
courts, divided off by stockades, and having the usual
covered gateways to connect them. The biggest bronze
is a''kirin," or winged horse, who was, I noticed, supplied
with a complete set of straw shoes, such as pack-horses
Wear on the road, in case he should wish to start off for
anywhere. They were not on his feet, but were placed
"convanient," as an Irishman would say. The shrine
itself (the chief, that is, of some score of shrines) is only
remarkable for some curious combinations of rings and
brass tickets hung up on the pillars, the use of which I
tried in vain to ascertain, but doubt not they were in-
tended to facilitate the realization of the prayers of the
faithful and the incomes of the clergy.

Returning down through the village, I noticed that
the main street was marked off by stone posts, mortised
for the support of flagstaffs, and lanterns (toro) at regular
intervals, for a long distance away from the shrines ;
and as we turned down a by-lane for a short cut back
into the main road, we met a party of about fifty female
pilgrims, dressed in white, and intoning some prayer or
Canticle as they slowly scaled the hill. As it was now
getting well on in the afternoon, they had probably come

334

EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAfT.

from some distance — perhaps FuVuoka, whither I wa^
bound, and where I arrived soon after nightfall. That is.
I thought 1 was in FukuoVra. but it turned out that the
town only bears that name properly in the immediate
neighbourhood of the old castle, now the offices of the
local government. The commercial town is HafcatJ,
the street in which I stopped is Kawabafa-machi, the
inn is Yebiya, and the landlord's name Rikigoye; and
I was very comfortably lodged, into the bai^in, and
the people of the house sent across the river and bouf^t
me some Bass.

Next morning (i 2th) I visited the castle; but it being
Sunday, could not get in to see anything. Not that the
people are either Christians or grumpy, but that the
convenience of keeping the same holidays as foreigner*
do has been felt in the treaty ports, and the practice has
come into general use wherever the telegraph goes. So
I had to put up witli the shrine of Hachiman, the wafriof
god of mythic times, and the Koyenchi, or public paffc
which contains the graves of many hundred men who
fell in 1877, symmetrically arranged in rows, and well
tended. It was more than half-past ten when I leftth*
town on my onward way.

Fukuoka, or Hakata, is on the coast, and my road
lay along the seashore for some distance. Here I b^
to feel the inclemency of the season, for a bitter cold
wind was blowing from the north, bringing with it sleet-
showers, and the roads turned out very bad. So did
the men, and what with these combined troubles and
with some slight illness that I attributed to Nagasaki
tinned meats, I was glad to stop at Akama rather

JOURNEY FROM UACASAKt TO KOBE. 335

td put Up even with poor accommodation in that dirty
aiage.

I heard that the next portion of the road was so

Uy that we should have to walk some distance to

liya ; but on sallying forth next morning I found all

ba^age in one vehicle, and a single coolie to draw

iso that it was evident the road could not present any

lidable difficulties. Indeed, after the first two miles,

Ji were certainly up-hill, the road was a very fair

and we all made good time into Ashiya. About

miles before reaching that place a lovely view was

Itained from die brow of a spur that the road wound

r, commanding a vast stretch of country to the south-

■d. Ashiya itself is a thriving- port at the mouth of

Unkawa {river Un), over which we were ferried, still

kh our one jinrikisha for the baggage. I looked about

more, but could get no lift for another six or seven

miles, so that I had walked altogether some fifteen,

which, with a rheumatic knee and a disordered digestion.

Was quite enough when we raised the balance of wheels

required. Riding was if possible worse, for the bitter

north wind came down upon us again from the sea, and

rif I had not donned good thick flannels as a precaution

r the walk I believe I should have died then and there.

B it was I reached Wakamatsu more like an icicle than

human being. Here I got some rice, and infused

roe warmth into my system ; so that I felt better on

le road to Kokura, At Wakamatsu we were ferried

ffoss the mouth of an extensive inlet that we had been

Idrting some time before reaching that place, passing a

ittle island devoted apparently to the manufacture of

336

EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN.

briquettes, a sort of artificial fuel. At Kokura mybad
luck stuck to me, for if I had done right I should have
gone on by road to a place called Mose, or something

like it, and there taken boat for Shimonoseki, crossing
the straits where they are only about a mile and a half
wide, whereas the transit from Kokura took over four
hours, being against wind and tide, and it was dark
before we landed at Shimonoseki, and I suffered
dismally from the cold. Some hot whiskey and water,
and no stint of it, revived me ; so that even the intelli-
gence that the bath was out of repair failed to extinguish
me, and I walked down the street a few doors with
nothing on but a pair of boots and a waterproof, had a I
good stew in a hot bath that was not out of repair, returned
to my inn, jumped into dry flannels and a sleeping jacket,
ate my supper, drank the remainder of the bottle of
whiskey and all the hot water there was in the big kettle,
and slept the cold right out of me without stirring.

I had thus during five days traversed the province of
Hizen throughout its length, the northern coast of Chi-
kuzen, and a little corner of Buzcn, leaving to the south-
ward Higo, Chikugo. and Bugo. These terminations
"zen" and "go" denote position with reference to the
old capital, Kiyoto, and may be rendered " hither " and
" yonder," the road fronn Kiyoto to Bugo leading through
Buzen, and so on. In some cases there is an intermediate
district, the descriptive character suffixed to the general
name being pronounced " chiu." Thus along the northefi
shore of the Inland Sea one comes successively, goi"?
towards the capital as I was doing, Bigo, Bichiu, and
Bizcn. It does not follow that these districts arc thrW l4

divisions of one larger province, for we find in the suc-
cession of provinces alonji the north-west coast Echizen
divided from Elchiu, or Echi-chiu, and Echigo by the
Intervening province of Kaga, one of the most important
'n the empire. Though on]y nineteen of the eighty-five
provinces are named m tliis way, a mental note of their
t>osition affords a great help to remembering the internal
geography of the empire.

The political divisions of the country arc called " Fu "
and " Ken," and their boundaries do not invariably
correspond with provincial limits ; they are forty-three
in number, only three of them, containing the cities of
Tokiyo, Kiyoto, and Osaka, being called " Fu," The

P""'thern island of Yezo, containing eleven provinces,
only lately been divided into " Ken," or prefectures,
ive may render the term, raising the number to that
en above. The minor divisions, arrondissements, or
:ricts, are called "kori."
On rising from my quilts on the 14th, I felt at once
that I was restored to my usual health and spirits after
the somewhat rough experiences of the day before, and
started away gaily at half-past eight, by a good road,
that wound along under the bluff beside the strait
for some distance. A steamer of some four hundred
I tons that left a little before I did, afforded a good idea,
■ her comparative progress, of the strength of the
airrent she met with, for my men, going at an easy trot
V along the winding road, headed her a short distance
I ^from Shimonoseki. Once through the straits, however,
rahe gave us the go-by, and was soon only a speck on
e broad bosom of the Suwo Nada.

■

EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN.

The day was fine, and we had the shelter of the hills,
being now on the southern coast of the mainland ; so 1
could enjoy the scenery of the district through which
I was passing, untroubled by aches or pains. From
Yoshida, a "long " town by the shore, we turned inland
and over a small pass, and made a halt at Asaicbi,
where I was served with a dish of scrambled e^fs and
tiny fish, a speciality of the place, that I unanimousl)'
redemandcd. The inland scenery was charming, and we
progressed well till reaching Fundki, where the usual
afternoon trouble began. It is nearly always difiicultW
get men for a long stage late in the day, as they do not
like returning by night ; and here I was delayed near!)'
an hour (which I devoted to a general inspection of the
local wares) before my servant struck a bargain with
some men to take me fifteen miles to Ogori, five mil»
short of my destination that night. It was consequently
dark before we reached the outskirts of Yamaguchi, the
chief town of the prefecture ; but I was gratified tos«
by the illuminations on the hill-sides that the peopk
expected me, or that some other reason had caused
them to set fire to the coarse winter grass and under-
wood. This revised theory was suggested by my finding
that the people of the inn at which I put up, in all
confidence, would have nothing to do with me, insomuc"
that when I expected my supper, the boy told me he
had been too busy looking for another inn to see about
anything else. I therefore resumed my boots, W*
turned a deaf ear to the representations of the household
that it was all a mistake, and that they hoped 1 wouU
stop. On I went into the centre of the town, to the heao

■ 'JOURNEY f

JOURNEY FROM NAGASAKI TO KOBE.

339

police office, and asked there for a recommendation to a
respectable lodging, being soon housed just opposite. I
had only just established myself in the rooms, when
a very Juvenile policeman came in to examine my
passport ; he was evidently a too conscientious youth,
for he endeavoured to make an exact copy of it. As it
was not a departmental pass, but one of the kind usually
obtained through the British Legation, enclosed in a
printed notice headed by the lion and the unicorn, and
^ned Harry S. Parkes, he had his work cut out for
him ; but after a vain attempt to imitate the seal, he
Save it up with a deep sigh, and gazing at me speech-
kssly for five minutes, departed with a still deeper
:«ne.

I had been not a little amused by the difference in
behaviour of the local authorities, many a time before,

respect of passports. No demand was made for
mine between Nagasaki and Shimonoseki ; at the latter
place it was merely glanced at, while in general it
seemed to be quite unnecessary in country districts, but
indispensable in the large towns. I would not, however,
fecommend any one to suppose that by dodging about
he can travel in Japan without a passport, — it may be
demanded at any moment, and must then be produced,
or the traveller is at once turned back, with what seems
deserved ignominy, and conducted to the nearest treaty
port

Yamaguchi itself I saw but little of; it seemed to be
a rambling town in a pocket of hills, and as it actually
lies off the main road, I had at starting on the isth,

return thereto, by another way, cutting across a

EIGHT YEARS IN "jAPAIf.

level country for some distance, and then up over some
spurs till I reached a " salca," or sleep road up a hill,
of which I had heard as a formidable pass. I should
say it was about three hundred and fifty feet to the top ;
steep enough certainly, but the rest-houses at the summit,
with their pretty gardens, seemed ridiculously unneces-
sary. However, I found that I had come upon it from
the inland side, and the descent towards the coast was
respectably long and sharp ; and I resisted the impor-
tunities of the jinrikisha man that I would ride, until
we came to a less dangerous incline. Then we crossed
a river by ferry, and found ourselves in Miya-ichi, a fine
village possessing a handsome shrine on a hill, from the
court of which we had a good view seawards, across
a couple of intervening miles of marsh ; with a port,
Mitajiri, from which it was evident one could go by
steamer to a good many places, if the smoke from
numerous funnels was any criterion. My insidious boy
toid me that the shrine was another Da-zai-fu, evoking
memories that brought down curses on his head, which
he converted into smiles and chuckles.

I soon started onwardis, by a road that shortly skirted
the seashore, passing around a bluff into a lovely bay,
the waters of which washed the feet of rocky cliffs, of
alternate granite and metamorphic rocks. Then inland
again, and over a hill into a pretty valley and the village ,
of Hetamura, where wc halted for lunch ; and after thati i
over another hill to the sea coast again. What would
have been a lovely prospect was unfortunately marred
by heavy rain, that commenced soon after midday,
and after passing Toishi and turning our backs once ,

JOURNEY FROM NAGASAKI TO KOBE.

more upon the sea, we reached a poor village called
Hauaoka (which, from the termination of the name,
should have possessed a castle, but I saw none), and
up for the night, discerning signs of fine weather for the
morrow.

An early start on the i6th, enabled us to get over
some rough ground before tiffin, which we made at
Kuga, in the valley of a fine rushing river that disap-
peared southward into a rough-looking gorge. Then we
climbed a steep but short pass with a double summit and
long descent into the valley of a river running north-
ward apparently, and from which we turned southward
up a tributary. Strange country, I thought, where the
main rivers run inland and the tributaries come from the
sea ! But we had in fact been passing along the back
of a hilly promontory of some extent ; and turning over
another ridge found ourselves at the mouth of an impor-
tant river, and under the ancient walls of Iwakuni castle,
with the town opposite to us. This is really a lovely
spot, and is renowned for a curious bridge connecting
the fortress and the town, the steepness of the road
between the piers and the crowu of each arch converting
the passage into a feat of gymnastics. What a wonderful
revelation it must have been when the last generation of
bridge-builders happened to see a level bridge! It is
impossible to account for the fantastic forms of some of
the Japanese arches, except on the supposition that they
thought all bridges must be humped like a camel, in the
nature of things.

We crossed by a ferry boat, slung on to a rope stretched
across the river ; and turning toxvards the coast, went

342

EIGHT YEARS m yAFAffi

through a knot of sand-hills and along an embankment
bordering lands reclaimed from the sea, to a little village
at tlie world's end, where the road came to an abrupt
stop under a cliff. At this place, where we found we
had run into a trap as it were, we were delayed for an
hour and a half before we settled terms with a boatman
to take us across to Utsukushima, the holy island of the
Inland Sea, a passage of some twelve miles from Shin-
minato, the trap aforesaid. This was an exploit of my
boy's, who had been induced by the j'inrikisha coolies
to turn aside to this place, instead of going by the
regular road to Ogata, whence there is a ferry of only
two miles to the island. He said he had ascertained
that no boats were to be had at Ogata, which was
absurd, impossible, and incredible, besides being untrue.
However, there was no help for it ; and I know that
unless one manages everything oneself, and makes
original mistakes, one must put up with things as they
come ; besides, it is no use keeping a dog and barking
oneself. So we set sail for the island, and progressed
some half-mile before the wind forsook us. Then our
man and his boy took to their sculls, and presently
the man, being the nobler animal, devoted himself to
the cooking of rice, leaving the boy to propel the boat ;
and when the rice had been washed and boiled, the man
seized his scull and worked like a fury till we touched
the nearest point of the holy island, when he moored tbe
boat and began his meal. It was no use landing here
as we were not yet half-way to the village of Miyajima,
the only one on the island, and quite at the other end;
J when our boatman had finished stoking up, 1

JOURNEY FROM NAGASAKI TO KOBE.

Wiff again, and we coasted along as the stars shone out.
pin another mile or two we struck a breeze, and hoisted
I tile sail. This windfall lasted us till within a couple of
liles of our destination, at which we arrived about
nine o'clock. We soon found a good inn ; and after
a little disputation, a good room ; and after a good
deal of waiting, a good supper; and after all, refreshing
slumbers.

After an early breakfast next morning, we sallied
out, in charge of the guide who had been laying for us
since our arrival, to visit the shrines ; going round the
shore into a beautiful bay enclosed within wooded
promontories, and with a sandy bottom dry at low
water. In the centre, surrounded by the waves at high
tide, is a torii, or gateway, through which persons of
exalted rank, arriving on pious errands from the main-
land, may pass in their boats if they like ; but there
is nothing to prevent their passing, with less trouble,
on either side of it. The temple is built on piles over
the water, and connected with the sides of the bay by
long galleries roofed over. At the entrance of these
I compromised the matter of taking off boots, by putting
on a huge pair of slippers over all, in spite of the
protestations of my boy, who said that it was a well-
known fact that the Japanese Chief Commissioner of
Railways, when he last visited the shrines, went about
them in unmitigated boots to his heart's content. Being
only an Englishman, I stuck to my slippers, and
traversed the galleries, which are hung all round with
the most wonderful native pictures, the majority of
which represent processions by land or water ; but there

EIGHT YEARS IN -JAPAH.

are some dreadful gods and goddesses, horses, land ^ at
sea-scapes, and curiosities of various sorts. There: u
supposed to be something very wonderful in the foai
of the central shrine ; and as the porta!, beyond wb/cA
one does not pass, is low, this wonder cannot be seen
unless one goes down on hands and knees ; wJi/ci
prayerful attitude, however, I declined to assume on
any earthly consideration, wonder or no wonder, to the
great and manifest disappointment of the priest and
the guide, and the unconcealed joy of my servant, wlw
had almost given me up as a person of no moral bad['
bone over the affair of the slippers.

At the far end of the galleries, that is on the otter
Bide of the bay, we found the usual beggars in waitingi
namely, fifty children and twenty deer, the latter
seeking bean-cakes, and the former ready to sell ih^
same. I produced the smallest silver coin known W
the land ; but my boy intercepted it, and for three ha''*
pence acquired the whole supply of bean-cakes, which
the deer made no bones about whatever ; and *^
departed, leaving everybody happy. Then we went up
the valley behind the shrines, to a pretty little pavilion
called the "Momiji Chaya" ("maple tea-house"), whe"*
there were fountains, with dancing bails, and other
facilities for passing a h appy day, I was at least a month
too early for the maples ; when they are breaking into
leaf the place must be lovely. Then we went back over
the spur to the village, calling in at a big hall, a hundred
and fifty feet long by seventy-two broad (twen^-live
"ken" by twelve "ken"), said to have been built by
Hideyoshi. It is a roughly designed place, and from 'f

yOUR^TEy FROM NAGASAKI TO KOBE.

34S

tutnble-down appearance might have been built by Hide-
yoshi's grandfather — barring that as a self-made man,
he hadn't such a thing. Hard by is a pagoda, said to be
a copy of that at Teji, Kiyoto, but nothing like the size
of the original. I was, however, told, that the principle
of construction was the same, the destructive vibrations
arising from earthquakes being checked by suspending
Sn enormous mass of wood In a central well between the
ptop story and the ground floor. It is hung from the
Vsiain beams of the roof, and touches nothing below,
» that it takes up and absorbs all vibrations of the
Btmaller parts in its mass. This piece of wood at Tojt
is an enormous trunk of cryplomeria, about seventy feet
long and five in diameter; and is suspended by numerous
. of "kashi" (the toughest known Japanese wood)
bortised into the beams and the weight, and secured
rith copper keys.

The village itself is not in any way interesting, being

^imposed almost entirely of inns and shops for the sale

of mementos. It is, however, rather comical to find

deer taking the place of dogs in the streets, lying under

the shop boards or in sunny comers, or .stealing rice

HpBt of the boats, and to see the monkeys come down

Hwi to the roofs and lurk about the tea-houses for

Blainties.

^B I think one could well pass some days in Utsuku-
^nttiima, for the island is several square miles in extent,
mountainous and finely wooded, and from its higher
portions must command some lovely prospects over the
surrounding sea and the neighbouring mainland ; but
*>t in March — probably May or October would be the

EIGHT VEARS IN JAPAN.

best months of the year, for such a " retreat." One might
then find out something about the shrines, and the
religious ideas attached to thent ; but I confess that
one saint or god is to me so much like another, that I
count it as so much time lost, that is devoted to sorting
them out. I am always glad to hear of a man inquiring,
if he is disposed to believe — if not, he had better leave it
alone, and not add his own waste of time to other
people's.

At noon we started for Hiroshima, another transit of
some dozen miles by boat, making right for the main-
land till we got within half a mile of the shore, and then
hoisting sail and coasting. Half-way on our passage the
wind failed us as usual, and we had to scull— -or rather
our boatmen had to — till we reached the shallows and
the fishing station.s, and then to pole among the stakes
into the mouth of the river, up which we made a tedious
progress to the town, one of the most celebrated in the
empire. Its glories are departed, however, like those of so
many others, — the sites of the old castle and of the former
residence of the daimio being now waste, except for a
modern barrack, hospital, and telegraph office in the
corners of them. Business, however, seems to be thriving,
and the river was crowded with passage boats and plea-
sure boats, nor were the twang of the samisen or the
shrieks of sak^-Iaden roisterers wanting. One jovial
party, who kept near us all the way from the mouth of
the river, seemed determined to make the most of theit
time ; they were so crowded together in a small boat
that the gunwale was almost level with the water, and al
every convenient sandbank they stepped out and bale''

JOURNEY FROM NAGASAKI TO KOBE.

their vessel, and drew afresh upon the tub of sake, and
the box of sweatmeats, before starting again for the
next cruise.

We reached the centre of the town about half- past
six, and soon found a lodging ; and the people of the
house hunted mc up a chair and rolled an empty sak^
tub into the room for a table ; first laying down thin
mats (" goza ") on top of the floor mats (" tatami ") as a
protection. It seemed to me that Hiroshima was a very
dissipated place, and the row in the other rooms of the
inn was something quite out of the way even in Japan,
where happy people are most demonstrative. I had
finished my dinner, and bought some native-made
cigarettes, for my supply of cigars had run out, when
the slides of my room suddenly opened at the side —
where I had not thought there was anything but a cup-
board — and a fat, merry-looking, middle-aged man
appeared. " Igirisiil" he said, lifting up his hands; and
I confessed to being English ; whereupon he proceeded
to ask me for various particulars as to my belongings
and destination. I happened {it is not always so) to be
good-humoured at the time, and entered into the spirit
of the thing by asking similar questions as to his own
proceedings ; and the end of it was that he sat down on
the floor, while I showed him what a famous thing a
sak^-tub is ; what an excellent tabic it makes, with the
big end upwards, covered with a fair white cloth ; how
merrily one can drum upon its sides and top, if one
wants music of a more refined description than the
samisen can furnish ; how exactly it suits as a leg-rest
for the wearied traveller ; and how convenient it is, to

348

RIGHT YEARS IS JAPAff.

impart through the bung-hole the aroma of saW, with-
out the trouble of drinking it Then he, on his part,
told, me of his acquaintances in the capital, when he
was an officer of the Naval Department, many of
whom I knew well ; and we finished up the evening
with sweatmeats and hot grog, and a discussion of the
attractions of Miydjima, whither he was bound on the
morrow.

In the morning I was grumpy, and evaded the
effusiveness, not yet exhausted, of my neighbour,
starting away at half-past seven, with the very worst lot
of jinrikisha-men I ever met with ; but I noticed one
man start with injured pride when I asked the boy what
paddy-field he had picked these slow-going old duffers
out of — or words to that effect,— and at once promoted
the starter to be my own man, with good results ; for he
ran well, and the others puffed and groaned after him,
that it would have made the welkin (had there been
such a thing) ring. We passed a long village that was
evidently the last home of all the oystershells of the
Inland Sea, — and, if I recollect aright, it has a name
importing as much, — and turned inland up a long valley
till the men jibbed, and swore that no man could go
beyond that spot (Ikanda) with a load. It was getting
pretty steep ; so we chartered a fresh vehicle for the
baggage, and started to walk, up a winding goi^e with a
tumbling stream foaming amongst big boulders; and
after a mile or two, arriving at a fork of the road. I asked
of a policeman who was leading a manacled malefactor
(to make a charitable surmise) which was the best way.
The policeman held his peace, but the malefactor sat

JOURNEY FROM NAGASAKI TO KOBE.

Fidown, and producing a pipe and tinder-box, informed
I me, between half a dozen whiffs, that the right-hand road
I was the old one, but was bad, led over a hill, and met

■ the other again on the far side, saving about two miles
tand a half over the new road, which was nearly level, I

■ ■(hanked him, and lit a cigarette, upon which he begged
for one, which I gave him, and the policeman took
another ; and I left them smoking amicably on the road
side as I strode up the hill. I suppose my followers
didn't ask any questions, for they went the long road
with the baggage, and I was over the hill, which I found
steep and rough, and high enough to tire me, and rest-
ing at a roadside " tateba," when they came up and
protested that they had feared I was lost and conse-
quently had been much troubled in their minds. From
here we procured fresh vehicles, with if possible a worse
lot of impostors in the shafts than wc had before ;
but we struggled on to Yokkaichi, over an up-and-down
sandy road ; and after taking tiffin, found some better
men.

Going forward we crossed a queer country — always
rising, but at each turn expecting to go down into the
valley, as we had apparently reached the summit; but
seeing at the bend another hill, towards which we turned,
and from that another, and so on, till we suddenly found
Lourselves in a deep narrow cutting, with an aqueduct
i'Bome fifty feet overhead. Then we began to descend,
Kand a wonderful drop it was, the road leading now
Efouth, now north, doubling back under the spurs of cross
allej's, down to the bottom of a ravine, and then in a
V steps high up on the .side of a deeper gorge ; every

EIGMT YEARS Iff yAPAK

available inch terraced out for cultivation, and dominated
by little cottages perched high up on the hills — a
thoroughly characteristic piece of Japanese hill farming.
At last we reached a deep defined valley opening
eastwards, and came to the village of Tanari, where a
clock at the transport office pointed to six, and the
boy proposed to put up for the night. Referring to my
watch, in some doubt — for we were so low down in the
gorge that it seemed as if night were failing, — I found it
not half-past four, so ordered a further march ; and with
fresh men we passed still down-hill for about a mile ;
and then, to my astonishment and disgust, struck off to
the left away from the water.

Now I found that we had to ascend just such another
valley as we had come down, the gorge from the junction
of the two, with a fine broad road through it, pointing
directly southward to the coast. Up the long steep
pass we toiled, crossing the summit as the sun sunk
below the crest of the hills to the west ; and then over
a wretched road, slowly down, with sharp counter-rises
at intervals, into the darkness of a river valley, and at
last out from the hills on to an embankment. It was
now so dark, that after one or two narrow escapes from
capsizing, I took to my legs for the four-hundrcdtii
time that day. and felt my way with the point of my
umbrella, calling out at each hole to warn the men
behind. At last we found a village, and raised some
candles for our lanterns ; and then on through the foggy
valley bottom till we struck the river again, and found
a long temporary bridge connecting the inner slopes of
two lofty embankments. As we had to shift

JOURNEY FROM NAGASAKI TO KOBE.

3SI

f l>agirage, — for the planks were not wide enough to take
Vtiie wheeh with safety, — this obstacle took half an hour
ftto pass, and we then found ourselves in Kongo ; and in
■ due course in a hot bath, outside supper, and under the
1 quilts, after a very hard day's work.

Rain came on in the night, and continued in the
morning, so that our start on the 19th was deferred to
nearly nine o'clock, when we followed down the river
bank till near the sea, and then diverged through an
opening between two hills, and struck across for Mihara,
traversing that dirty town and skirting the ruinous
ramparts of its castle, and emerging upon the seashore
upon which I had looked a fortnight before from the
Genkai Maru. Rain spoilt the view of the islands ; and
soon we were skirting a creek, bordered by a long suc-
cession of sait-paiis and boiling-houses, leading to
Onomichi, a busy and thriving place, where we had
in a neat tea-house attached to the transport

Still rain, heavy rain ; but on we went, taking an

isy line of country behind the coast hills, till we

nddenly turned at right angles to the main road and

clegraph line, and in a few miles entered Fukuyama ;

md glad I was to be housed, though we had not made

L good day's progress. But if I had gone on along

straight road, I should never have known that we

Id get Bass in Fukuyama, or that previous travellers

I so dealt with the innkeeper with whom I lodged,

he had foi^otten the usual moderate scale of

uges, and adopted an extravagant one based upon

3S2 EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN.

On the 20th, we started at 8 A.M,, traversing a
winding road through a knot of hills, till we came upon
an inland plain, striking the telegraph line again. Over
a low watershed we came into the valley of the
Imad'ziigawa, a river in which I noticed a number of
float wheels working rice-hulling mills, fixed on boats
moored in the rapids. Beyond this the road was
ghastly ; of course I walked, and the vehicle containing
the baggage was actually carried over great part of the
road by the coolies and some farmers' men they pressed
into the service, and required me to pay for their trouble;
and I couldn't refuse, seeing what they did for us, and
what we could not have done without them. We were
crossing a tract of low ground, intersected by numerous
embanked tributaries of a main river, upon which we
came at last, finding that the rain of yesterday was
coming down in a turbid flood. I made it out to be
the Yatasegawa; but every river in Japan has a score
of names, generally traceable to the next village on its
banks up-stream from the point of inquiry — so that
doesn't go for much.

Beyond the ferry we came to some hard ground in
a knot of hills, but soon got down into the paddy again ;
and just as I had noted the commencement of the
branch telegraph line to Shikokil, our men caved in
from their exertions, and we were fortunate enough to
get fresh ones without any great delay. It was dark
before we reached the suburbs of Okayama, a fine town,
the existence of the like of which 1 had not previou^
suspected in that part of the country, though it is the
chief place in Bizen, and the market of a large agricuJ-

JOURNEY FROM NAGASAKI TO KOBE.

tural district We rattled through long and busy streets,
crossing at last a long bridge over a navigable river, and
turning into a street parallel to the bank, the entrance
jto which was occupied by a crowd of hotel touts.
I I pulled up the vehicles to one side, and sent my
"Jx)y to reconnoitre ; for it was evident that a large
proportion of the houses practised a kind of hospitality
more comprehensive than suited my taste. He soon
found a quiet lodging, in the which I settled down to
tolerable comfort.

2ist. I dare say that Okayama would well have

repaid the trouble of an exploration, to any one

Interested in temples or antiquities ; but I had in the

course of my travels seen so many Japanese towns, with

,the result of storing my memory chiefly with impressions

of the wretched nature of the manufactures by which

native industry strives to compete with imported goods,

and the wonderful good faith with which the consumer

accepts a forgery of a foreign trade-mark displaying

half the letters turned the wrong way about, or upside

down, or into some other letter altogether, so that a

judge, if there were such a thing in Japan, could hardly

call them colourable imitations even,— that I count the

general features of a district, or even of a road, of more

importance than the details of a city ; and was reconciled

to turning my back upon Okayama at eight o'clock in

the morning. We found a level road for some distance

out of the town, and then wound round some hills and

crossed a river with high embankments. A little further

On we came upon an irrigation feeder of great volume

3Dd velocity, that struck me at once as indicating an

2 k

EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN.

advanced stage of agricultural enterprise ; and followfiQ
this up for some two or three miles, came to a high
bank bordering upon a large and swift river, upon which
long boats, built in the peculiar style that in Japan
surely betokens a difficult navigation amongst rocks and
rapids, were passing down stream in a constant suc-
cession. The river bed was broad, though the channel
occupied but a small portion of it ; over this we were
ferried, close by the telegraph line, that crosses in two
long spans, the posts on the bank and in the centre
being very lofty. At all these swiftly flowing rivers,
wide in time of flood, the ttilegraph crossing can be
distinguished from afar, as the wires gradually rise from
the ordinary land line to the elevation necessary to
carry them over the span, in some instances of over a
quarter of a mile from post to post We followed up
the left bank of this river, the Yeshigawa, for a short
distance, finding that at the point where it issues from
a hilly district on to the plain, an enormous weir had
been run across from the inner comer of a long bend, so
as to leave only a small rapid channel close by the left
bank, which was substantially protected by groynes and
heavy piling. The channel thus made a long loop
trebling the distance on the real axis of the river bed
between the upper and lower sides of the weir, above
which, opposite to us, the head of the irrigation stream
we had already seen was visible, the sluices having a
considerable drop between the river surface and the
channel beyond the embankment A somewhat similar
feeder was taken off from the left side, through a double
sluice with an intermediate pond. •

yoUKNEy FROM NAGASAKI TO KOBE.

Our road lay along^ the foot of the high ground,

E^ritly rising past two picturesque reservoirs, substan-
tially embanked across the narrowing valley behind an
Outlying knot of hills. We turned off the road to see a
Wonderful "malsii" tree, about fifteen feet high, but with

* spread of something )ike a hundred and thirty feet,
''le huge limbs curling over from the root, and running
Out over props that supported them just about high
ctiougJi from tlie ground for us to get under by stooping.
^ gladdened the heart of the lessee of this exhibition by
partaking of a cup of tea, and buying a couple of fans
"Caring pictures of the tree, — not in the least like it — at

* total cost of sevenpcnce. Above the second reservoir
we crossed a small ridge, and descended upon the village
of Kamigata, evidently a great place for the production
"E" a kind of dark brown glazed earthenware, that looked
^ry handsome and strong, and was fashioned into all
imaginable shapes, from cups and saucers to drain-pipes
and garden monsters.

From Kamigata, after tiffin, we started up a long
Ecntle ascent, passed another reservoir, descended again,
~~~-one wouldn't mind that if it were not that of course it
*s only to rise yet higher a little further on, — and entered
**pon a hilly country in which we crossed four or five
•idges in succession, mostly steep ascents and descents.
Half-way through this district is the village of Mitsu-
'shi (" three stones '") — for the hills yield a veined marble
^d two kinds of soap-stone, of which many handsome
*ticles, such as trays, boxes, models of Fujisan, present-
''lents of known and unknown beasts, tea services, and
™5wer-pot stands are made. I bought a small teapot

3S6 EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN.

and five cups, of the red soap-stone, very neatly designed,
after a littie chaffering, for about half a crown, and had
them neatly packed up in two wooden boxes into the
bargain, so that I should have been well satisfied had it
not been for the parting shout of derision with which
the collected villagers hailed the completion of what
they evidently thought was a successful swindle, the
native victorious again over the ignorant barbarian !

The last ascent was the stiffest, and the rain that had
been falling for the last hour made the clayey road very
trying. How the men got the jinrikishas up the hill I
don't know, for I didn't stop to see, but strode on, down
the other side of the hill through a targe fir wood, passing
round another big reservoir with a very high embank-
ment, and out into a cultivated valley, before the vehicles
overtook me ; and then the rain set in for a steady
night of it, and I halted at Unt-, a post town of dingy
appearance, but possessing a good honjin, where I was
supplied with a very excellent Japanese supper. I found
on inquiry that it was barely possible, with luck, to make
Kobe within the next day; so as I was bent upon
saving a mail if possible, I resolved to make a push for
it, and ordered my team for six o'clock next morning,
turning in before nine for the night.

22nd. Rain, still rain ; but we were off only half an
hour after the time named, finding the Chikusagawa,
the first of about twenty rivers to be crossed that day,
just at the end of the town. The stream was narrow,
but all ferries take about the same time to get across
in Japan, so that was no advantage. After a short run
by a road that of course humped itself on to unnecessaiy

JOURNEY FROM NAGASAKI TO KOBE. 357

hills, we found the Ibo-gawa, — another ferry, but there
was a good bridge in course of construction, which was
a comfort to think about in connection with one's grand-
children, — and then a length of yet more horrid road,
for two miles of which we all preferred the paddy fields
alongside ; for there was only about three inches of water
covering a uniform depth of mud, while on the road was
six inches of water concealing holes of unknown depth ;
then another river, possessing a brand-new bridge, on
which we rested awhile, as docs the traveller in the
desert on reaching an oasis. Then more of the paddy
fields, till we left the main road, and took to a good
hard by-lane leading over a small eminence, from
which we sighted the castle of Him^ji in the distance ;
before reaching which place, however, we crossed j-et
another river, by a bridge that had been rendered a
ghastly monument of human folly, by a pavement of
soft bricks, bedded in mud upon thin cross planking —
specimen of modern Japanese engineering. We
crossed this by climbing along the railing, and dragging
the jinrikishas through the water— that is, after we had
crossed we found out that would have been the easier
way; but I was getting grumpy, for the rain never
ceased ; and we reached Him^j'i in time for tiffin, having
accomplished twenty miles out of the projected fifty-
right.

As we passed along the muddy streets I looked out
for Sfime of the leather-work, — a really good production
of the place, not unlike morocco, of which I had once
possessed a specimen, — but saw none— only paper
imitations that have probably superseded the better
3 A J

EIGHT YEARS IN fAPA/f.

class of ware; and on reaching a tea-house at the
eastern end of the town, was told that the only
purveyor of what I wanted lived on the west side of
the castle, which is on the west side of the place
altogether — so I gave that up.

Alas ! by this time I was Hearing the haunts of
foreigners, as was evident by the impudent demeanour
of the two lasses who brought me my tiffin, and who
betrayed by their pranks a familiarity with the chia-
chucking, paw-about young merchant princes of Kot>e.
I got out of the place as soon as possible, and into the
rain again, crossing a deadly line of country, of course
intersected by numerous rivers. The rain changed to
sleet, in furious showers that drove across the plain,
and chilled me to the bone, spite of my rugs and
waterproofs, my Okayama cigars, and the remains of
my carefully saved bottle of whiskey ; and progress
became slower and slower, till on reaching a village
where there were some vehicles standing beside the
road, and coolies crouching round their " hibachi " in a
shanty, I took matters into my own hands, engaged the
whole available manhood of the place, in addition to
my Himtjji team, at their own terms, and started afresh
with four men to each jinrikisha : going now so swiftly
that the only question was whether the machines and
the men would hold together, for we landed on the for
side of each hole instead of being ingulfed in the
middle, and occasionally made a stepping-stone of ft
fallen leader, as he floundered in the depths of some pit-
fall. Wheels, axles, and springs held out, as it happened ;
and just as the sun had set we increased the native^

JOURNEY FROM NAGASAKI TO KOBE,

of Akashi mud by several hundredweights that we
brought into that town from the westward.

A short halt and a meal — that I might not give my
host in Kobe the trouble of getting me supper on
arrival, — and we were again on the road. The weather
had cleared, and a bitter cold wind swept the coast ;
but I was thinking of the coal-fire ahead of me, and
so long as the men were running I was content
Through Maiko and Suma we rattled, — the coolies were
the best goers I ever sat behind, — across the bleak
plain to the back of Hiogo, over the Minato-gawa
bridge, over the railway bridge, over the level crossing
by the Kanda Yashiki, up the hill to the cosy bunga-
low beside the "number four shrine," — and then an
•rderly family fireside was disturbed by the irruption
>f a mud-bespattered, out-at-elbows, shaggy, blue-nosed,
*liivering vagabond, whose identity was recognized
iust in time to save the trouble of producing the
fevolver out of the bedroom. One cry of horror at
*he hideous aspect consequent upon a never-too-hand-
Some nose and cheek being overlaid with the remains
of the four or five skins that had been partially used
up on the Journey, and then the instinct of human
charity triumphed, and the battered remnant of what
had once been a Kobe man was comforted, cosseted,
chaffed, calorified, and congratulated, and finally bestowed
away in a civilized chamber, to sleep himself into a
renewed self-respect on the morrow.

Now, granted a good time of the year, say May
or October for choice, fair health and spirits, and a not
too luxurious habit, no more delightful trip, I believe.

36o EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN.

could be devised in a far country than that between
Nagasaki and Kobe. True it is there is neither crater
nor glacier to tempt the mountaineer ; no savage beast
or rugged desert for the adventurer to encounter ; scarce
even a real extortioner for the small-beer chronicler to
satirize in his reminiscences. It is simply a fortnight —
or better still if one has time, a month — of easy travel
in a smiling land.

The alternations of plain and pass, of river, coast,
and inland bluff; the hundred views of the isle-dotted
seas ; the aspect of the country people in the various
districts ; the ruined strongholds and the thriving towns ;
the noticeable beauty and fitness of many of the works
of human enterprise and art ; and the contrast afforded
by misdirected ingenuity, — all combine to repay the
slight exertion of the Journey and the modest expenses
of transport and subsistence, and the time of such a
holiday as working men need for their refreshment
For those with some special training, there are the
thousand quaint or venerable monuments of two religions
that have held the people for countless generations,
inviting to inquiry and discrimination ; for those who
observe only economical matters, there are the industries
and appliances of a toiling and frugal, but contented
and sharp-witted society, from the boats and looms, to
the houses and agricultural implements, that lie or move
before the traveller's eye. The study of the varying
shapes of jinrikisha shafts alone, from the pronounced
curve of Nagasaki, through the fantastic crookedness
of Yamaguchi, to the nearly straight propriety of
Okayama, will, as Count Smorltork said, " surprise by

JOURNEY FROM NAGASAKI TO KOBE.

361

himself ; " while potteries and potato- patches, salt-pans,
and even the all-pervading paddy and its irrigation
system, claim much more than a passing glance from
any one not sworn to devour the road and make fast
time for the minimum of cost. And everywhere the
traveller may find a smile of welcome, thanks for
courtesy, a helping hand, and a hearty good speed.

THE END.

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