Full text of "A new picture of Paris, or, The stranger's guide to the French metropolis : accurately describing the public establishments, remarkable edifices, places of amusement and every other object worthy of attention : also, a description of the environs of Paris, with correct maps, an accurate plan of the city ... etc."

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A new picture of Paris, or, The
stranger's guide to the French ..

Edward Planta

IJ^

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NEW PICTURE OF PAllIS;

OK, THE

THE FRENCH METROPOLIS;

ACCUHATELT DESCBIBINO THB

PUBLIC ESTABLISHMENTS, REMARKABLE EDIFICES,

PLACES OF AMUSEMENT, AND EVERY OTHER

OBJECT JFORTHY OF ATTENTION^

ALSO, A DESCRIPTION OF

THE ENVIRONS OF PARIS ;

WITH CORRECT MAPS. AN ACCURATE PLAN OP THB CITY, A GUIDB

TO THE PRINCIPAL OBJECTS OP CURIOSITY, NUMEROUS

VIEWS OF THE PUBLIC EDIFICES; &c.

By EDWARD PLANTA.

ftFTSBNTH EDITION, CONSIDERABLY ENLAllGSO.

LONDON:

I'RINTED FOR SAMUEL LEIGH, 18, STRAND;

AND BALDWIN, CRADOCK, AND Co.

PATERNOSTER.ROW.

MDCCCXXVII.
PBKS 99^ BOUND t Wtra THE C08TVMES, m.

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: / , *^ ^ ^<'^ ' ''UZr

LONDON:

RINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES,

StaaoiM-itBeet.

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-"^-■■p

PREFACE.

Evert successive edition of this woik has nnder^nemaiiy
improvements^ and the present has received those altera-
tions which the ever- varying aspect of Paris had rendered
necessary. It has been the Author's earnest endeavour
to give it a distinguished rank above the inaccurate and
ill-written publications, ivhich^ under similar titles, are
often obtruded on the Public. He has aimed to render
the ** New Picture of Paris" acceptable to readers of
taste and judgment, whose praise is alone valuable, and
whose patironage is the best proof of merit.

The Itinerary of the principal routes to Paris wifl be
found exceedingly useful and interesting to the traveller.
The account of the regulations at the custom-houses and
fortified towns, the character of the different hotels, the
accommodations which the traveller may expect, and the
usual -manner of living in France, will prepare him for
his journey, and prevent much delay, inconvenience, and
disappointment.

The remarks on the different modes of travelling, and
the additional information communicated respecting the
rate of posting, will be useful to tourists.

The criticism!^ on the present state of the French
Museums, and on the general character of the French
Stage, have be^ written with much attention.

Every public building, every museum, and every in-
stitution has been carefully examined ; and, availing him*
aelf of the civility and friendship of several literary cha-
racters ccmstantly residing in Paris, many new and im-
portant sources of information have been opened to the
Author. He now confidently presumes, that Paris does
not possess a single object of interest which is not no-
ticed in this pablioation; and, in offering another editiom
of it to the Public^ he trusts that he shall not be deemed

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IV PREFACE.

presumptuous in hoping, that it will at least be found to
contain an accurate delineation of Paris and its inhabitants
as they now are.

. In describing the various Collections of Painting and
Sculpture, the Author has con6ned himself to the most
prominent objects of interest, because he was unwilling
to swell the present publication* too much, and because
connrplete catalogues may be procured on the spot at a
trifling expense. He has also abstained from giving any
list of Parisian tradesmen, as visiters may always procure
the most recent information respecting them, at the
hotel where they lodge, or of the friends with whom they
are acquainted.

The Environs of Paris contain many interesting objecta
which will repay the stranger for every excui^ion which
he may be disposed to make; and much labour has been
bestowed in describing every place worthy of notice.

The Map of the Environs, together with that of the
Routes, the Plan of the City, and the Views of the Pub-
lic Edifices, have been derived from the best sources of
information, and engraved with great care. The Guide to
the Principal Objects of Curiosity in Paris will be found
extremely useful to the cursory visiter ; but those who
require more minute information will consult the large
Plan at the end of the work, which is accompanied with
an Index of the Streets, Quays, Bridges, &c.

For the accommodation of numerous travellers, who
have inquired for the Post Roads of Europe, as published
by order of Buonaparte, the Work has been reprinted, and
may now be had of the Publisher, No. 18, Strand.

As a general travelling companion through France and
Belgium, Reichard's Itinerary may be recommended ai
the most useful work extant ; those who wish to travel
in the Unit^ N/etherlands only, will consult Joyce's Bel-
gian Traveller,

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CONTENTS.

PAg«
DimccTioirfl to the Traraller ' 1

Plu of the Cmnlar and Transferable Exchange Notes - - S

Pari* Bankers ' --5

Coins, Aeo. ^--•--•---.•5

Table of Francs .-- 6

Fren^ Weights and Measorea 8

Luggage 8

Passports .---.. 9

Bootes -----10

Coaches 18

Packets * i - - 15

From London to Dover-~I>irection» on arriring at Dorer • - SO
Description of Dorer ---------29

ArriTal at Calab -- 88

Calais Inns 84

Mode of Liring at French Inns -.--... 86

Description 6f Calais 88

Travelling in France - - - 30

TaUe of the Price of Posting 38

Laws relatiTe to Posting -------- 34

Cabriolet 35

Diligence -- 36

From Calais to Paris, by Abbeville and Beanvais • • - 38
From Calais to Paris, by Abbeville, Amiens, and Chantilly - 47
From Calais to Paris, through St. Omer and Arras • > 53

From London to Paris, by Brighton and Dieppe . - • - 55
Dwcf iptiqp of Dieppe , , - * , ^ <» ■» - W

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Tl CONTBMTB.

From IMeppe to Paris, by Forges and Pontoise .... 59
From Dieppe to Paris, by Rouen and St. Germain-en-Laje - 60

From Rouen to Paris, by Econis - 68

From London to Paris, ^y Margate and Ostend - • - • 68
From London to Paris, by Dover, Calais, and Ostend - - - 7-4
From London to Paris, by Rye and Boulogne - - • - 74
From London to Paris, by Portsmouth and Havre - - - 74
From London to Paris, through Helvoetsluys, Antwerp, and

Brussels --.---.--•78
Duty on Carriages, Horses, tee, •..-••>86

ARRIVAL AT PARIS 87

Hotels - . - - 87

Lodgings 97

Boarding-Houses '-. ^---SS

Coffee-Houses ------- ..-f^

Eating-Houses, or Restaurateurs ->-..-• 164

Interpreter, Glass Coaches, &e. - - 114

Price of Provisions, Clothing, &c. * - - - - -114
Necessary Forms on a Stranger*s Arrival at, or Departure frMH

Paris 115

HISTORY and PRESENT STATE of PARIS - • - 117
STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF PARIS - .... 130
CHARACTER AND MANNERS OF THE PARISIANS - 141
STRANGERS' METHODICAL GUIDE, or PLAN FOR

VIEWING PARIS IN A WEEK - - - - IM
DIARY OF THE AMUSEMENTS OF PARIS ... 167

FESTIVALS IM

PALACES 165

PUBLIC BUILDINGS 208

PRIVATE BUILDINGS 221

ANTIQUITIES 826

REUGIOUS EDIFICES 289

PROTESTANT CHURCHES 888

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odmniTs* lii

JBWISH SYNAGOGUES - - - S58

COWVEKTS *..-'.- S59

THE CATACOMBS - - - - fW

CEMETERIES, &c. - - - - MB

SQUARES, or PLACES . - 177

FOUNTAINS 984

KlIDOES - - 990

QUAYS - 997

PUBLIC "BATHS - " - . 998

SWIMBilNG SCHOOLS 301

TRIUMPHAL ARCHES 301

BARRIERS 30i

MARKETS AND HALLS , . .306

SLAUGHTER-HOUSES 814

COURTS OF JUSTICE 815

PRISONS 318

CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS 8S9

PUBLIC SCHOOLS 339

PRIVATE SCHOOLS 354

MUSEUMS ...........356

PUBLIC LIBRARIES, &c. 386

LITERARY SOCIETIES 396

READING ROOMS - - 403

NEWSPAPERS and MAGAZINES 404

MANUFACTORIES ' - - - - 40?

MODES OF CONVEYANCE, &c., HACKNEY COACHES,

CABRIOLETS - 419

THEATRES, EXHIBITIONS, &c. - - - - - - 418

GAMINGHOUSES «9

HORSE RACES ..-..--::: «»

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Viii CONTJiNTS.

LOTTERIES * . . 4^

MOUNTAINS 440

BALLS - 441

CONCERTS - - 442

REVIEWS 443

PROMENADES, PUBLIC GARDENS, &c. - - - -443

NURSERY GROUNDS - . -460

GUINGUETTES and BASTRINGUES - - . - - 451
ENVIRONS OP PARIS 4S8

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,yG( ►OQ

DIRECTIONS

THE TBAVELLER,

PSETIOU8 TO SETTING CUT,

1 HE present publication is principally intended as a
Guide to those who are unacquainted with, the capital of
France, while it is presumed that it will be found an
useful companion to others, who may have already visited
the Continent. 1 shall consider my reader as just settitog
out on his first trip to Paris, and shall proceed to give
him, methodically, every necessary information to ensure
him. a safe and pleasant journey.

The traveller should provide himself with sufficient
French money to defray his expenses fro^ Calais to the
metropolis of France. Ten or twelve pounds sterling,
will allow enough for any trifling delay occasioned by
business, pleasure, or accident.

French gold and silver coin may be purchased of Mr.
Lew|8, 22, St. James's-street,* Mr. Smart, 60, Princes-
street, Leicester-square J Mr. Thomas, 10?, Comhi^l;
or Messrs. J. Bult and Co., 86, Cheapside, on whom
the tourist may confidently rely for punctuality and
integrity.

Should he possess any English money, which, on his
arrif al at Paris, he may wish to exchange for the cur- '
lency of that city, Mr. RoUin, in the Palais Royal, will
accommodate him. on the most liberal terms. There are
also several other houses in the Palais Royal who do
business in the same manner.

If the traveller should have more English money than
he requires when he arrives at Dover, Calais, Brighton,
or Dieppe, he will meet with persons at the Inns who
will accommodate him with French coin. .OnMessjs.

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^mmmtmma^m

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TBAN87X]lABia XXOHAMOX NOTES.

pens to bear a pvemiam. They are payable to 01
and the traveller will, nataially, for his own seci
not oidorse them till he receives the moDey ^ be
which, such checks are so concerted with the a|[^ts i
render a successful foi:gery of his name scarcely
fible.

As a still further precaution, they are drawn,
bank post bills, at seven days' sight ; but, althoug
drawn, they are always paid on presentation, es
when there is room for suspicion of their not being
sented by the right owner ; in which cases the a|
are instructed to avail themselves of the seven da;
make the necessary inquiries, and to give time al
the real proprietor to make known his loss, llpoi
whole, therefore, these notes, it is presumed, posses
recommendation of combining, in a peculiar ma
90Citriiy, concenience, and economy.

The Trantferable Eatchange Notes
Are payable at one particular place only, and are ci
lated chiefly for making remittances of money to pei
whose residences are fixed. They are given for an
quired sum, previously reduced into foreign mon
the last quoted course of exchange from the place y
payable; and they are negotiable, or transferable
hand to hand, by simple endorsement, in the same i
ner as bills of exchange. They are payable, as we
the circular notes, without any deduction whatever.

From the foregoing short explanation, it will be
that the great advantages of this plan over commoc
ters of credit, are, -
First, — ^The option which the traveller has, of recei

his money at so many different places.
And, Secondly, — His being exempted from the pay

of any commission, or charge of any kind, the si

duty only excepted.

The real convenience, however, of these notes, hfl
been universally acknowledged by travellers of all
scriptions, ever since the plan was first thought (
the late Sir Robert Herries, and by his house ca
into execution (now nearly fifty years ago), it is th<

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CIRG1TLAR EXCHANGE NOTES.

necessary to enlarge on the subject' here ; but any further
explanation that may be wished for, either with regard
to the notes, or to letters of credit, which the house also
furnishes, whenever required^ will be given with pleasure,
either verbally or by letter. •

%♦ All letters of credit in the common form are subject
to a commission of one per cent. ; and often, from the
necessity of getting them transferred from one place
to another, two or three of these commissions are in-
curred.

List of Places where the Circular Notes are
optionally payable.

Abbeville Cairo

Aix in Prorenee Calais
Aix la Cbapelle Cambray

Aleppo

Alexandria

Alicante

Amiens

Amsterdam

Ancona

Angiers

Angoul^me

Anspach

Antwerp

Ath^nes

Avignon

Augsburg

Bagneres

Barege

Barcelona

Basle

Bayonne

Berlin

Berne

BesanfOQ

Bilboa

Blois

Bologna

Bordeaux

Carthagena

Chambery

Civita Vecchia

Coblentz

Cologne

Constantinople

Copenhagen

Corunna

Dantzig

Dieppe

Dijon

Douay

Dre8d.en

Dunkirk

Dusseldorf

Elsinore

Ferrara

Florence

Frankfort

Ghent

Genoa

Geneva

Gibraltar

Gottenburg

Gottingen

Boulogne surMcrThe Hague

Bremen Hamburgh

Breslaw Hanover

Brunswick Havre de Grace

Brussels Hesse Cassel

Cadia Inspruck

Caen Konigsberg

Lausanne

Leipsick

Liege

Lilfe

Lisbon

Leghorn

Lubeck

Lucca

Lvons

Madrid

Maestricht

Magdeburg

Malaga

Malta

Manheim

Mantua

Marseilles

Memel

Mentz

Messina

MeU

Middlebnrg

Milan

Modena

Montpellier

Moscow

Munich

Munster

Nancy

Nantes

Naples

Neufchatel

Nice

Nismes

Nuremberg

Oporto

Orleans

L'Orient

Ostend

Palermo

Paris

Parma

Perpignan

Prague

RatJsbon

Ilheims

Riga

R.ochelle

Home

Rotterdam

Rouen

St Oalle

St. Maloes

St Omer

St Petersburg

SchaflThwaseQ '

SeyiUe

Sienna

Smyrna

Sois8<»8

Spa

Stockholm

Stuttgard

StrasDuif^

Tain

Toulon

Toulouse

Toumay

Toors

Treves

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COIHS.

Trieste -' Venice Vienna 'YwMnu

Turin Verdun Warwiir Zaote

Valencia Verona • Weimar Zurich

Valenciennes Vevay

N.B,. Besides these places t there are few or none in
£ttTope where the circular notes are not now so well
known as to be negotiable currenUy, as biUs at short date
on London*

Notes on a similar plfin may also, be obtained of Messrs.
Ransom -and* Co., bankers, • Pall-Mall £asi| and of
Messrs. Morldnd, Auribl, and Co., bankers, 56^ Pall-Mall.

The principal bankers at Paris, who correspond with
EDglish houses, are, •

Perr^aux, Lditte, and Co., Roe ChauM^ d'Antin.

Mallet, Freres, 13, Rue du Mont Blanc.

Hottinffoer, 20, Rue du Sentier.

CallagEan, ISjRue Bleue.

Wells and William's, 26,'Rtte'du Faubourg Polsgonni^e.

Recamier, 48, Rue^asse du Rempart. '.

Perier, Frfercs) 37. Rne Jfeuvie du Luxembourg.

T«urton,'Ray9l, and Co,, 9, Rue i^t. Gorges.

coins;

HaviMG -arranged his pecuniary- affairs, the trareller
should make himself familiar with the names of the
Frelich coinS) the impression which they bear, and their
actual and relative value. This may easily be accom-
plished, £is nearly all the coins 'are marked with their
value, from the piece of Jbrty francs down to that of ten
centimes. The currency of France is principally the
same as existed during the ascendancy of Buonaparte,
with the addition of a few new coins.

The following table will afford him considerable as^
^stance.

S*g^§h Coinage. Vniue in Frarae,

rooe Old Louie, imd a piece of 24 sols, or a
A guinea is equal to < shilling; and a New Louis, four francs, ana

C ajoiece of 24 sols.
A sovereign to -. . one uld Louis, or 24 francs.
A kalf sorereign ^ 12 francs.
Tlw crown-pieee to » the piece of six livres.

half-erowB . * to Ihe piece of three livteg.

ng i . I &4«ob. p ^

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6 TABLE OF FRANCS.

Engm Coinage, ValueinFmMe.

Ibe six-pence . . to the piece of 12 sols.

penny . . . two sols.

half-penny one sol.

farthing . . twoliards.

French Coinage. gold. Engliih VaiuaHon.

The Old Double Lonis, containing 48 francs, equal to .^2 0 o'

Double NajMleon, or 40 francs . . . . . 1 13 4 «

— Louis, a new coin of the same value, and de^
rMj T . *«?°.®^ ^ supersede the former

Old Louis, 24 francs . . 10 0

^Napoleon, 20 francs . . ' * ' * 0 16 8

—New Louis, 20 francs . . .* \ \ * .* 0 16 8
8ILVEB.

The Ecu, or six-livre piece 0 5 0

apiece of five francs, or livres , '. ', \ .042

sixty sols, or three livres . . ' '. .026

two francs 0 18

thirty sols '.'.013

• twenty-four sols . . . . * * 0 1 0

-— — — one franc * .* 0 0 10

—--— fifteen sols . 0 0 74

twelve sols 0 0 6

— — a demi-frano ! 0 0 5

— six sols . . ' ! 0 0 3

BELL-METAL.

six liards . . . - 0 0 * Of

COPFEB.

- two sols, the double sou, or ten centime piece .001

one sol, or five centimes . . . . 0 0 Oi

' two liards . '. 0 0 Oi

one hard 0 0 0*

French bank notes of 500 and of 1000 francs are also
in circulation. Cash may be obtained for them at the
Bank, where three sous are charged for a money-bag, or
at the money-changers, for a trifling per centage.

Tl^ following table will be found useful to 8tranger» in
Pans, who are not accustomed to calculate by francs;
a method almost universally adopted in the French
capital.

^fl»e». Fnn^, l. s. d. Franc. Frtnch. L. 4. i.

J Un . . . 0 0 10 6 Cinq . . .042

J Deux . . .018 6 Six^ . . .060

STrois. . .026 7 Sept . . . • 0 6 10

4Qoatr« . .0341 8 Hwt , . . ^ 6 8

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TABLB'OP yRANCS.

Frm$ut. fWndk.
9 Neuf .

10 Dix . .

11 Onae .
IS Doaze

13 Treiie .

14 Qnatorze ,

15 Qainze .

16 Seize

17 Dix-sept

18 Dix-huit ,

19 Dix-neuf

20 Vingt .
81 Vingl-et-nn

22 Vingrt-deux

23 Ving^t^ois

24 Vingt-qaatre .

25 Vingt-cinq

26 Vingt-six

27 Vingt-sept

28 Vingt-huit

29 Vingt-neaf

30 Trcnte

31 Trente-et-un

32 Trente-deux .

33 Trente-trois

34 Trente-quatre

35 Trente-cmq

36 Trente-six

37 Trente-Bcpt .

38 Trente-hait

39 Ti:ente-nettf

40 Qaarante

41 Quarante-et-nn

42 Qaarante-denx .

43 Qnarante-trois

44 Qnarante-qnatre

45 Qaaraote-cinq .

46 Qoarante-six .

47 Qaarante-sej^t

48 Quarante-huit .

49 Qaarante-neuf

50 Cinqnante •

51 Cinquante-ct-un

52 Cinqoante-deux .

53 Cinqaante-trois

54 Cinquante-quatre
65 Cinquante-cinq .

56 Cinquante-six

57 Cinqtiante-se^t .
56 Cinqoaate-buit
p9 Cinqaantc-neuf

L. «. d.

0 7 6
0 8 4
0 9 2
0 10 0
0 10 10
0 11 8
0 12 6
0 13 4
0 14 2
0 15 0
0 15 10
0 16

0 17

0 18

0 19

1 0

6
4
2
0

0 10

1 8

2 6

3 4

4 2

5 0

5 10

6 8

7 6

8 4

9 2
10 0

I 10 10
1 11 8
1 12 6
1 13 4
1 14 2
1 15 0
1 15 10
1 16 8
1 17
1 18

1 19

2 0
2 0
2 1

2
3
4
5

5 10

6 8

7 6

8 4

9 2

Fraiui. Preneh,

60 Soixante

61 Soixante-et-vn

62 Soixante-deux

63 Soixante-trois

64 Soixante^aatre .

65 Soixante-cinq

66 Soixante-six

67 Soixanfe-sept

68 Soixante-huit .

69 Soixante-neof .

70 Soixante-dix

71 Soixante-<)nze

72 Soixante^doaze

73 Soixante-treize

74 Soixante-quatorze

75 Soixante-qmnze

76 Soixante-^eize .

77 8oixante-dix-tei)t .

78 Soixante-dix-hait

79 Soixante-dix-neuf .

80 Quatre-vingt

81 Qaatre-vingtruu

82 Quatre-vingt-denx

83 Quatre-vingt-trois

84 Qaatze-vingt-qnatre

85 Quatre-vingt-cinq .

86 Quatre-yingt-six .

87 Quatre-vingt-sept .

88 Quatre-vingt-huit

89 Qaatre-vingt-oenf .

90 Qnatre-viagt-dix .

91 Quatre-yiog^oIlze

92 Qaatre-ringt-doaze

93 Quatre-viogt-treize

94 Qoatre-vingtrqua-

torze

95 Qaatre-vingt-qninze

96 Quatre-vingt-seize

97 Qxiatre-vingt-dix-

sept

98 Qnatre-yingt-dix-

huit

99 Quatre-vingft-dix-

neuf

100 Cent

101 Cent-un

102 Cent-deox

103 Cent-trois .

104 Cent-quatre . •

105 Cent-cinq .

106 Cent-six

£.•.

S 10

2 10 10

2 11

2 12

2 13

9 14

2 15

2 15 10

2 16

2 17

2 18

2 19

3 0

3 0 10

3 1

3 2

3 3

3 4

3 5

3 5 10

3 6

3 7

3 8

3 9

3 10

3 10 10

3 11

3 12

8 13

.3 14

3 15

.3 15 10

3 16

3 17

3 18

3 19

4 0

4 0 10
4 1 8

2 6

3 4

4 3

5 0

5 10

6 8

7 6

9 *

by Google

Ll76dA6lS.

107 Cent-sept- .

108 Cent-huie

109 Cent-neuf

110 Cent-dix

111 Cent-onzd
119 Cent-doaze

113 Cent-treize .

114 Cent-quatonee )

115 Cent-quinze .

116 Ceit-sewe

117 Cent-dix-sept

118 Cent-dix-hmt .

119 Cent>dixneaf
190 Six-Vingts

181 Cent-vingt-et-un

L. t. d.
4 9 2
4 10 0
4 10 10
4 11 8
4 12 6
4 13 4
4 U 2
4 15 0
4 15 10
4 16 8
4 17 6
4 18 4

4 19 8

5 0 0
5 0 10

JPrenA.

122 C*nt-vingt-dcux

123 Cen^vingt-troiB
12i Cen^vingt-q1latI«

125 Cent^vingt-cinq

126 Cent-vragt-six .

127 Cen^vingt-8ept

128 Cent-vingt-hmt .

129 Cen^vingt-ne^If

130 Cent-trente
200 Deux-cent .
300 Trois-cents- .
500 Clnc^cents .

1000 Mille ' .
2000 Deax-Mille

5 1

5
5

6 8

8 6
18 10
SO 16
41 13

sa 6

4 8

5 e

5 10

6 8

FRENCH WEIGHTS AND MEA3UllES.

The UfMre or potmd is about 14^ ounces avoirdupois.

The kilogram is about 35 ounces aToirdupoiis.

The litre or pinU used in measuring liquids, "is about 8 1-8th Bng •
lish pints. It is divided into decilitre, centilitTe,* millilitre. Ten
litres are called decalitre ; one hundred, hectolitre ;^ one thousandt ki*
lolUre.

The litre or pint^ dry measure, is about 1 l-6th English pint.

The boisseau or bushel^ contains 10 litres.

The stcre^ which is the element of solid measure, is rather more
than 35 cubic feet English.

The foot is not quite 13 English inches.

The metre is about 39 l-3d English inches. It is divided into 10,
100, and 1000 parts, called d^imetre, centimetre, and millimetre.
There are also measures of 10, 100, 1000, and 10,000 metres, which
are called decametre, hectometre, kilometre, and myriametre.

The aune or e//, is 3 feet 11 4 inehes English.

The toise is 6^ feet English.

The post league is rather more than 8§ miles* English.

The are is a superficial measure, rather less tlian 4 English
perches.

LUGGAGE.

The traveller must next think of his luggage. Few
tilings ace so connected with easj and con^ortable tra-
velling as light and portable luggage. Everf kind of
wearing apparel can be procured cheaper in Paris than
in London, and at the shortest notice ; but, should the
EnglishmaB feel desirous of appearing in tbo precise
costume of his native country, he must not depend on the
Parisian tailor. No entreaties will prevail on him to

Digitized by Google

FAS8P0ETS. 9 -

make a single habiliment which doei not at once pro-
claim itself of French manufacture.

Should the traveller have more luggage than he wishes
to take under his own charge, the Managers of the Packet
Offices^ in the vicinity of the Custom House, and 357,
Strand, will convey it to any part of the Continent on
reasonable terms.

PASSPORTS.

Before our tourist proceeds on his route, it is absolutely
necessary for him to procure a passport. To obtain this
he must apply at the office of the French^ Ambassador,
No. 50, Portland- place, between the hours of twelve and
four. He will signify his wish, and leave his name. If
he has fixed on the route which he means to pursue on
his journey to Paris, it may somewhat facilitate the at-
tainment of his object if he mention this; but, except
under circumstances of much suspicion, this is of little
consequence. W he call at the ofBce on the following
day, between one and three, he will obtain the passport
without expense, signed by the ambassador. He need
not make a personal application on tlw first day, but
on the ' second it is absolutely necessary, as he must
sign his name to the passport in the presence of the
Swiretary.

If the traveller should omit to obtain a passport till
he reaches Dover, or Brighton, or Southampton, he may
procure one from the French Consul at any of these
places, on the first application, but it will then cost him
ten shillings.

It is perfectly uimecessary to apply for a passport at the
Foreign Office, as was formerly the case ; the passport of
the French ambassador will be quite sufficient.

Should the traveller wish to go through Belgium or
Holland before he goes to Paris, he may procure a pass-
port by addressing a letter to his Excellency the Ambas-
sador of the Netherlands, No. l,Bryanston-square, signed
by two respectable housekeepers to whom he may be
known ; the passport will then be granted on the follow-
ing day, free of expense. The office is open from eleven
to three. ^ ,

Digitized by LiOOgle

10 ^ BOQTBI..

AH foretgnen WMhing to Tint the Netherkods^ except
the subjects of that kingdom, must piodace at the office
a passport from the ambassador, or minister, or consul
of their respective countries, and which passports will be
countersigned, and delivered on the following day.

The traveller's passport will be den&anded at every for-
tified town, and examined by the officer on duty. If the
traveller wish to stop for some days on his journey, the
master of the hotel will put before him a ruled paper,
with the following heads, which he must fill up, and sign
hU name at the bottom, viz., name, place of abode, pro-
fession, where going, age, &c. This paper is sent to the
office of police.

It will be mentioned hereafter that the same rule U
observed when the traveller arrives in Paris.

ROUTES.

Our tourist being now completely equipped f<pr hi^
Journey, I shall proceed to give a comparative view of
the various routes to Paris, together with the time
wtually occupied in performing them by the stage-
coaches, steam-packets, and diligences. Those persons
who travel post, may, of course, go at a more expeditious
rate. I shall then give a list of the coaches, packets^
&c., and afterwards describe the various routes, and
point out the most convenient, pleasant, and economical
methods of travelling to the French metropolis.

1. MUei.

London to Calais, by steam-packet, from 11 to 14 hours, about 130
Calais to Paris, by Abbeville and Beauvais, 33 hours . « 173

IT* "ioi

London to Dover, 10 hours . ...... 71

Pov^rtoCalais, fromd to6hour8 . . . • . 34

Calais to Paris, by Abbeville and Beauvais, 32 hours . . 173

III. 15

/Loudon to Calais by steam-packet, from 11 to 14 hours . . 130

Calais to Paris, by St. Onjer and Arrays, 89 hours ... 197

>d by Google

Boimn* 11

IV. MUet.

London.to Dover, 10 hours ....... 71

Dwrer to Boulogne, from 4 to 6 lieon 89

Boologme to Parisrbj Abbeville and Beanrait, S8 hoars . 158

Isi

The voad from Oalai»« or from Boiilog:ne to Paris, by Amiens, is six
miles longer than that hj Beauvais, and the diligence is generafly
two or three hoars more m performing the joomey.

Londos to DeTer» 10 honrs 71

Dorer to Ostend, from 6 to 10 hoars , .... 79

Oatend to Paris, hj LiSe, Arras, and Peronne, 37 hoars . SOS

VI. . "345

London to Margate, 10 hours 7S

Margate to Ostend, from 7 to 11 hoars 75

Ostend to Paris, by Idlle, Arras, and Perdme, 37 hoars . . SOS

VII. 34»

London to Brighton, 6 hoars . . . . . . . 5i

Brighton to Dieppe, by steam-paeket, 8 to IS hoars . . 16

Dieppe to Paris, by Roaen and St Germain, Id boavs . . 13$

VIII. "Se

London to Brighton 6 hoars . &i

Brighton to Dieppe, by steam-packet, 8 to 13 hoars . . 76

Dieppe to Paris, oy Pontoise and FranconviUe, 17 hoars . Ill

XX. "sli

LoBdon to Rye, 8 hoars . . <^ , • . . 63

Rye to Boulogne, 5 or 6 hoors ...*.. 45

Boulogne to Paris, by Abbeville and Beauvais, 28 hours . 152

Z. S60

London to Portsmouth, 9 hours . , . . . "JS

PortsBioath to Havre, 11 to 14 hours ...... dO

Havre to Paris, by Rouen, 28 houv 152

XI. 'aii

London to Southampton, 9 hours ..,.•• 74

Southampton to Havre, IS to 15 hofrs . . . . • • \^

Havre to Paris, by Roaen, 38 hour^ . • « • * J^5S

>d by Google

CQACBStS.

xu.

Ix>n(loii to Harwich, 10 hoars

Harwich to Helvoetsluys, 13 to 18 hours

Helyoetsluys to Paris, by Antwerp and Bmasels

XIII.

liOndon to Rotterdam, by steam-packet, 26 hours
Rotterdam to Paris, by Antwerp and Brussels

MiUs.

71
107

611

. 195
. 312

"507
COACHES.

From the Golden Cross, Charing-Cross, and Cross Keys,
Wood-street, to the Messageries Royales, Rue Notre-
Dame-des-Victoires, at Paris.

" FARES.
L, s. d. Passage by Sea included.

3 16 0 Inside all the way.
3 12 0 Inside (hind body in France).
3 9 0 Inside in England (outside in France).

3 2 0 Outside in EngUnd {oJ^ng^de}*"^'*"*'®'

2 18 0 Outside in England (inside of the hind body in France).

2 14 0 Outside all the way.

Places in the Coup^ is. extra.

The coaches leave London every morning at seven,
half-past eight, and ten o'clock, and at six in the evening.
The director in London is Mr. Mauduit ; at Calais, Mr.
Tarnier, at his Coach-office, No. 14, Rue de la Mer; and
at Boulogne, M. Meurice, Rue de I'Ecu. Safety coaches
set out twice a day to Paris, from Calais and from
Boulogne.

The coach that leaves Calais at six o^clock in the
evening arrives at Paris the next day but one at five
o'clock in the morning, through

Ardres,

Frevent,

La R^cousse,

Breabfa$t.

St Omer,

Doulens,

Aire,

Talmas,

Lillers.

Amiens,

Femes,

Dinner.

St. Pol,

Hebecourt,

Flers,
Breteuil,
Wavigniers,
St. Just,
Clermont,
Supper,

Laigneville,

ChantiUy,

Luzarchea,

Ecouen,

St Denis,

Paris.

The coach that leaves Calais at nine o'clock in the

>d by Google

OOA'CHVS^*

Poix,

PuisseauT,

GranviUi^,

Beaumont,

Marseilles J

Moiselle,

Beaurais,

St. Denis,

Breakfast,

Paris.

Noailles,

moTBing arrives also at Pari* the next day at Ave o'clock
in the evening, through

Haat-Buisson, Kampont,

Marquise, Nouvion,

Bonlogne, Diniier,

Samer, Abbeville,

Cormont, Supper.

Montreuil, Aczance,

Considerable saving will be experienced by booking
throughout, and the best places secured in the coach.
Steam or Sailing Packet-Boats are always ready for the
conveyance of passengers ; but persgns wishing to stop
on the road, are allowed to do so, and resume their jour-
ney at pleasure, without any extra expense, provided it
is mentioned when the place is tak^.

Passengers, leaving London by the morning coaches,
sleep at Dover, and cross the water in the middle of the
next day ; sleep also at Calais, whence coaches go the
following morning.

Those who leave London by the evening coaches
abridge their journey by not sleeping at Dover, and are
equally in time for the packet-boats, the coaches arriving
at Dover always three or four hours before the packet
sails. These coaches put up at the Paris Hotel, Ship
Hotel, Shakspeare Hotel, and Packet Boat Inn, Dover.

Persons sending parcels to the Continent must annex a
written declaration of their contents and value; also the
name and direction of the person who sent them.

From the Golden Cross, CharingrCross, and from the
Cross Keys, Wood-street, coaches set out, every morning
and evening, for Dover^ Deal^ Margate,. Ramsgate, and
Brighton.

Coaches, likewise, from London to Paris, leave the
White Bear, Piccadilly, every morning at half-past seven
and eleven o'clock, and every evening. at half-past six.

The fares are the same as those of the Golden Cross.
The offices connected with these coaches are at Calais,
No. 44> Grande Place; at Boulogne, No. 16, Kue de
I'Ecu ; and at Paris, Hotel de Lyon, Rue de la Jussienne,
No. 18. r- T

Q Digit zed by LiOOgle „

l*! CQMtnamv

PaiMeofefs bodked thfOoflioQty leaViaf LooMi by
the morniDg coaches^ sleep at Dover, aod cfoff the water
in the middle of the next day ; sleejp also at Calais, whence
coaches go the fpHowing morning, at eight and tea
o'clock, and arrive at Paris the day after, at six o'eloek ilk
the afternoon..

The coach that leares Calais at eight 6'clock in tbe
morning arrives at Paris the next day at six o^clock in
the afternoon, through Boulogne, Abbeville, Amiens,.
Chantilly, to Paris.

The coach that leaves Calais at ten o'clock in the
morning arrives also* at Paris the nest day at six o'clock
in the afternoon, through Boulogne, Abbeville, Beau-
vais, to Paris.

A coach for Dover leaves the White Bear every morn-
ing at e^fht o'clock. There are coaches also from this
office daily to Ramsgate, Margate, and Deal.

From the Spread Eagle office, Webb's Hotel, No. 2^0,
Piccadilly, and the Spread Eagle, and Cross Keys,Gr&ce-
church-street, coaches set out, every morning at eight,
and ten o'clock, and evening at half-past seven ; in direct
correspondence with the improved light coach, the Hiron-
delle, running from Calais to Paris in 30 hours.

FARESr

L. f .

Inside all the way 3 16

Outside an the way S H

Innde to Dorer, and RotoiKle i« Vtamce . . . •^ 9 12

Inside to Dover, and Outside in Franee ... 3 8

Outside to Dover, and Inside in France . , . 3 12

Ouside to Dover, and Rotonde in France . . S* 18

In the C&itpi 4«-. extra.

The Ses Passage, by Oevemmeat Steam PadketSr Is iaeUided.

Director of the Diligence in London, M. Leuliette ;

ditto, at Calais, M. Laiwe, Rue Neuve, No. 82 j at Bon.

logne, M . Bovtroy, Hotel de Lottdres; Coach-office at

Ptnis, Hotel des Fermes, Rue da Booloy,No. 24, near tiie

Palais Royal.

Brighton, SoothampCoq, and Ramqgate €««eliee leare
the above Inns every morning.

Digitized by Google

JtOAOAMk IS

C^aefaee likewise proceed finm the smie imif to IfatH*
iogs every morning, and to Brighton every momiiig and
evening. The fare to the former place has been as low
as ]8«. inside, and 10«. outside; and to the latter place
only i 6«. inside, and 8«. outside. No dependence, how-
ever, is to be placed on any statement of prices, as they
are eontinually changing, according to circmnstances,
particularly daring the sammer.

A coach starts from the White Horse, Fetter-lane,
everv morning, at nine o'clock, and arrives at Brighton
at fire o'clock in the afternoon. Another Brighton
coach goes from Blossoms' Inn, Lawrence-lane : and
the Angel, 8t. Clements, every morning at half-past
seven o'clock.

From the Bolt-in-Tun, Fleet-street, a coach starts for
Rye every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday morning, at
ttx o'clock.

From the Angel Inn, at the back of St. Clement's
church, the Dover and Portsmouth mails start every
evening; likewise the Paris mail every morning, at a
quarter before seven o'clock. If a p&Tiy engage the
whole coach inside, atid part of the outside, it will take
them up at their own residence, and start at their own
time. Passengers may stop at any town on the route,
and proceed in the next coach (provided there is room)
without additional charge.

C0A0UE8 TO THB METHBRLANDII.

At the Golden Cross, Chariog-oross, and Cross Keys.
Wood -street, the traveller may book a place to Ostend i
the fare is IL 159.

Steam-vessels go twice a week from Dover to Ostend,
whence coaches set out daily for Brussels, Antwerp,
Amsterdam, Hamburg, Liege, Aix-la-Chapelle, &c*

PACKETS.

As the packets, like the coaches, are perpetually
changing their arrangements as to charges, time of start-
ing, &c,, the traveller should obtain information either
at the packet offices in the vicinity of the Custom-house,

Digitized by Google

16 PACKETS.

or at £xeteT*GhM)ge} iinme(fiate]y^ before he commeDices
his journey.

FOR CALAIS.

London to Calais, Steam Packets go from the Tower
Stairs three or four times a week during the summer
months, and once or twice during the greater part of the
winter. These vessels are neatly fitted up w^th beds;
and in order to save the passengers much inconvenience
and expense, the time of leaving London is so regulated
as to ensure the vessels getting into Calais harbour.
The passage is generally performed within twelve hours,
and the company may obtain refreshment on board. Car-
riages and heavy baggage must be sent before two o'clock
on the day previous to starting, but if the traveller has
only a portmanteau, he may take it on board with him.

The fares are, chief cabin, 1/. 13s.; fore cabin,
\L 28, 6(Z. Children under ten ye^rs of "age, half-price.
Four-wheel carriages, 4/. 4s.; two-wheel carriages, 2/. 2«.;
horses, 3L 8s.; dogs, 5s. each.

Other particulars may be ascertained by applying at
the offices, No. 24, Crutched Friars, and 56, Haymarket.
The time of the vessels' starting is advertised on boards,
which are placed in various parts of the metropolis.

, Sailing vessels also go from London to Calais, but they
have been almost entirely superseded, for the conveyance
of passengers, by the steam-packets. Particulars respect-
ing them may be obtained at the office, near the Custom-
house, and at No. 857, Strand.

Dover to Calais, Steam-packets set off every day,
BO as to reach Calais harbour at high water. They per-
form the voyage in 3 or S^ hours. The fare for each
person is 10s. 6rf.; for four-wheel carriages, 8/. 3s.;
horses, U. Is. each.

Sailing vessels also start every day for Calais, and if
the wind be fair, perform the voyage in about the same
time as the steam -packets.

FOR BOULOGNE.

■Dover toBoulogne, A steam-packet every day, performs
the voyage in about four hours. It is, however,^, some*

>d by Google

FAOlCIMi^ 17

timot doM in le8i> and the retorn from RdulogfM to DoTer
is generally petformed in three or four houn* The fans
are the same as from Dover to Calais.

Rye to Boulogne. A vessel sails every week« Fare,
11. U. Inqoife at the George Inn, Rye. The voyage
generally occupies five hours.

Htistmgs to Boulogne. A vessel sails every week. Pare^
158. The voyage is genemll^^ perfbrmed in five hours.

FOR OfTEND.

London to Ostend, Steam-packets go twice a week,
during the summer, from the Custom-house, and per«
form the voyage in from fifteen to eighteen hours. Their
days and hours of starting are advertised in various parts
of the metropolis, and they reach Ostend at high-water,
so as to enable the passengers to land at the quay. The
fares are, chief cabin, 21.; fore cabin, or fore deck,
II. 10«. Four-wheel carriages, 4^ 4s. ; two-wheeled car^
riages, 21. 2s. Horses, 41, 4«. Dogs, 5*. each. Chil-
dren under ten years of age, half-price. Refreshments
may be had on board.

Packets also sail IVom the Custom-house, every
week.

The best cabin is M. 11*. 6d. Servants or children,
II. 1«. each. Particulars may be known at the Custom-
house, or Botolph Wharf, and at the packet-office. No.
857, Strand.

Dover to Ostend, Steam- vessels, two or tliree times a
week, during the summer, perform the voyage in about
six or seven hours. Sailing vessels are also employed in
conveying passengers between these ports.

FOR DIIEPPE*

Brighton to Dieppe. A steam packet goes two or three
times a week, during the summer, and generally per-
forms the voyage in ten hours. Fares, 2^. Servants,
1/. 10s. Children ttader ten years of age, half-price.
Fcwir^wbael carriages, ^ 4t.J two-wheeled carnages,

/ C 8

Digitized by V

18 PACKETS*

21. 28.' Horses^ 3/. S». Dogs, 5^. each. Refreshments
may be had on board. Further particulars may be known
at the steam-packet office, Brighton; or No. 36^ Regent.
Circus, Piccadilly.

Sailing vessels also go occasionally, particulars of
which may be ascertained at the packet-offices, at
Brighton.

FOR HAVRE.

Southamplon to Havre. A steam packet-goes twice a
week, during the summer months. It calls off Ports-
mouth, for passengers, and on its arrival at Havre
meets the steam vessel which plies between that place
and Rouen. The fares are in the best cabin, 2/. 2s.; in
the servants' cabin, \l. Is. Children under twelve years
of age, half-price. Dogs, Ss. each. Further particulars
ihay be obtained at No. 855, Strand j or at Portsmouth
and Southampton.

A sailing vessel also goes every week from Southamp-
ton to Havre.

FOR HELVOETSI(UYS.

Harwich to Helvoelsluys, A sailing vessel twice a
week, during the summer. The passage rarely exceeds
twenty hours, and the fare is about 21. 12<. ^.

FQR ROTTERDAM.

London to Rotterdam. Steam-vessels twice a week,
during the summer, from the Custom-house, perform the
voyage in 26 hours. The fare, including provisions, is
21. 16«. In the steerage, 2/. Coach, 6/. 6«. Chariot,
5/. 58. Gig, 8/. Ss. Horses, 5/. 5s. Children under ten
"years of age, half-price. The vessel is very comfortably
fitted up^ and is under very good management.. Each
passenger is allowed 1 cwt. of luggage.

Sailing vessels also go every week to Rotterdam, but
are not so much patronized by passengers as the steam-
packets.

Every kind of information respecting packets may be
procured at the commercial shipping agenls. No. S57,

>d by Google

R0I7TBS TO PARIS. 19

Strand ; or at the packet-offices^ near the Custom-house.
At these offices insuraDces are safely effected, goods and
baggage warehoused for all parts, both foreign and
coast ways, until the time of shipping, regularly entered
and cleared at the Custom-house, and safely conveyed
from any part of the town, on spring caravans or lighters^
to the respective vessels.

The usual allowance for luggage by the coaches to-
wards the coast, is 14 lbs. for each passenger; although
a trunk weighing 20 or SO lbs. will frequently be suffered
to pass without notice, if it be not too bulky. The extra
charge for overweight is 14^. per lb.

Travellers who wish to proceed to Switzerland, will
gain every necessary information from Mr. Emery, the
agent, at Mr. Recordon's, Cockspur-street, Charing-
cross; or at the White Bear, Piccadilly. The journey
is performed in sixteen days, allowing two at Paris, and
sleeping every night at some town. The proprietors
furnish lodging, provision, passage . by sea, &c. The
carriage is roomy and convenient— the passengers are
limited to six. One cwt. of luggage is allowed to each,
and the charge is only 20/. English.

Dejean, of Geneva, also conveys passengers on similar
terms. The time of his departure may be known at No.
88, ^Haymarket.

ROUTES TO PARIS.

I WILL now give a particular description of each of
the principal routes from £x>ndon to Paris ; merely pre-
mising that the ' traveller from the English capital will
find it a rapid and comfortable mode of conveyance to
go by the steam-vessels, from the Tower-stairs, to Calais
{tee Packets, p. 1 6). If, however, he objects to so long
a voyage, I i^ould recommend him to proceed to Dover,
either by coach or post^haise, there hire the packet to

jitizedbyGoOgI;

20 ROUTE JPEOM LONPOV TO DOVER.

Calais, and make teraig at Calais for the lemainder of the
journey) either by posting or diligence. By this method
his time will be at his own disposal. He will not be
hurried on board when the wind is tempestuous, or the
weather unfavourable. He will not be compelled to
Bail by night, nor will any of the beauties 6f the voyage
be lost.

In describing the first roiite, I shall include every di-
rection which can contribute to the expedition or cona-
fort of the traveller, whatever other route he may think
proper to pursue.

It may be presumed, that the traveller is already ac-
quainted with the beauties of his native land. Until he
has familiarized himself with them, he has no admissible
excuse for visiting foreign countries. I shall therefore
content myself with merely giving the names and dis-
tances of the principal places through which he will pass
in his way to the coast.

ROUTE FROM LONDON TO DOVER.

Bricklayer's Arms

Mile*.

Rochester

Deptford Bridge
Blackheath

: t

Chatham "
SiCtingbourn

Shooter'8-hill

Canterbury

Dartford . .

Bridge

Northfleet . .

30}

Dover .

Gravesend .

ail

DIRECTIONS ON ARRIVING AT DOVEB.

The best inns at Dover are Wright's Hotel, and Ship
Inn, near the Custom-house j the York Hotel* ; Jell's
Union Hotel and Coffee-house ; and the London Hotel.
Travellers, who are satisfied with plain, but comfortable
accommodations, will find every thipg that they can
desire at the Sliakspeare's head, or the Hotel de
Paris. The Dover Castle, though a second-rate inn,
affords very excellent accommodation, and the King's
Head, kept by Mrs. Podevin, is well entitled to Uie
patronage of travellers.

* This hooae was hoionred with tbs presenoe of ths Emperor of
Rossia, King of Prossis, Blucher, &c., ia 1814,

Digitized by Google

AERIVIL ATJ)OTEB. - 21

The traveller will generally find every necessary infor-
mation respecting the packets at the hotel at which he
lodges. . The porter of the hotel will safely convey his
luggage to the Custom-house, where it must be regu-
larly inspected previous to its being carried on board.
The traveller should accompany his luggage to the
Custom-house, where, if he is not uncivil himself, he
will meet with the greatest civility from the officers in
attendance. Every portmanteau and box is opened,
but the officers sometimes content themselves with
merely lifting the lid; and it is seldom that they do
more than gently slide their hands down the sides of
the boxes or portmanteau, without disturbing the
packages.

On returning, however, from France, the officers at
Dover are much more strict, and will frequently take
every article out of the trunks, and even unfold the linen
to look for French lace, gloves, &c., particularly if they
happen to meet with any ccmtraband goods on first open-
ing the boxes. >

The traveller will find it of advantage to submit to '
these necessary forms with a good grace, and readily to
produce his keys at the first requisition.

The traveller must enter his name in the book which
contains the entry of his luggage, and as soon as this
examination is ended, the trunks are again taken up by
the porter, and carried on board the vessel in which the
traveller has secured his passage. Should the traveller
put his luggage on board one vessel, and, by accident
or choice, sail by another packet, he may depend on
finding his trunks safe at the Custom-house on the op-
posite shore.

The traveller may walk to the quay as soon as he ar-
rives at Dover, and inquire what packets are ready to
start ; but it will be prudent not to engage with any of
the captains or sailors, by whose importunity he may
probably be annoyed. Except he has already been re-
commended to some particular captain, or has booked
his place through from London to Paris, (in which
case he must sail by the packet connected with the
coach,) let him take all their cards to his landlord.

98 DBsaRxmoN ow dowr.

who Urill) goneraUy, honettly inform liini ob whom he
can place dependence for punctuality in ftartin^, knowr-
ledge of the profeaiion^ and good aecommodation. He
should likewise endeavour to arrive at Dover early in
the day; he will then generally find packets ready.
Their usual hours for starting are between ten and two ;
and the passage is frequently completed in three hoarn,
but it is sometimes prolonged to five or six. It will
therefore be advisable to take some slight provisions on
board. See Packbts.

If the traveller go on board at the quay, the men who
place the ladder for his descent to the vessel expect 6d.
for their trouble; or if he embark at the be^oh, he
must give 6d. to the men who place a plank for him to
get into the boat, and 9«* 6t|. for his conveyance to the

l(, on returning from Fmnce, the packet should not
be able to get into the harbour, he must pay 4«. for
being conveyed to shore ; or even if it should get into
the harbour, but not reach the pier, he will have to
payl*.

DESCRIPTION OF DOVER.

If the traveller has a few hours to dispose of at Dover,
he can fully and pleasantly employ them in examining
the natural and artificial curiosities of the place. Dover
is situated in a pleasant valley, between two steep and
lofty cliffs. A little river runs through the place, and
empties itself into the harbour. The town consists of two
parts, connected by a long narrow street, called Snare-
gate-street, from the romantic, and tremendous rooks
which hang over it, and seem to threaten the passenger
with immediate destruction. About the centre of Snare-
gate-street is the Shaft, consisting of a staircase, which
is perforated through the rock, and ascends to the front
of the barracks, which are situated on the summit of the
heights.

On a lofty hill to the north stands the castle, a vene-
rable and majestic building, well worthy of notice. It
dates i(s origin from the Romans, whose labours t»e yet

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ARKIVII. A7 ^JUEJIXS. M

evideiit ta tfie oetagosal bnildiiig «t the wflU end of the
ebuicb, and the ditch which inclosci it.

The antiqaary will delight in the Tariont and almoil
perfect TemaiBs of Homan, 8axoD, and Norman archi-^
tectare, which difiFefent parti of (he castle present t the
military man will admire its io^regnable stien^h ; and
«U will gaae with transport on the sublime prospect
which onfolds itself to the ?iew. To the souths about a
mile from Dover, is the lofty cliff which Shakspeaie so
poetically describes in his tragedy of King Lear.

la the cliffs, or heights, are some artiflcial eKeaTa-*
tioBs^ which are generally pointed out to the stranger.
They Sire cakalated to hold an immense number of sol*
diers^ in case of an attack from an enemy. The new Pier
is much crowded as a promenade, and commands a #a»
new of DoFer, as well as of the shippings

There are excellent reading-rooms and libraries, wheie
the London papers may be seen daily.

ARRIVAL AT CALAIS.

On arming at the opposite coast, it is usual to give n
trifle to the sailors of the packet. They generally expect
some gratuity for their attentions while you are on board,
particularly if the passage is prolonged by contrary
winds. The steward, as well as the mate, usually asks
for a donation ; a shilling, or a franc, from each person,
is sufficient. It is customary for the passengers to give
the ladder-men at Calais half-a-franc, if the vessel go to
the Rer; but if they are carried oveif the sands, the
porters expect a fmnc or two. Should the traveller
arrive at night, the porter at the gate will also expect
half-a-franc .

As soon as the traveller sets foot on the Pier of Calais,
he win find himself surrounded by a crowd of men and
boys, eagerly importuning to be employed in the con-
veyance of his luggage, or offering cards of address to
the different hotels. It may be prudent to keep the
•mall parcels in his own possession, but the porters
have the character of being strictly honest, and iti general
tttty be almost impiititly trusted.

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24 CALAIS IKNS.

■ The traveller is first taken to a house od the quay,
\vhere his person and his smaller parcels are slightly
searched, and his passport demanded; this is sent to the
office of police, and afterwards to Paris, and on paying
three francs a provisional one is given him instead, which
answers the same purpose. The original passport will
be returned on application at the Prefecture of Police at
Paris, or it may remain there till a few days previous to
his return.

Ilis trunks are sent to the Custom-house, where they
are rather more rigorously examined than they were at
Dover. A charge of 1 8 sous is made for the examination
of each trunk. The luggage may be intrusted to the
conductor of the diligence, or to the commissioner at the
hotel.

In some cases it is necessary for travellers to make per-
sonal application at the office of police for their pass-
ports, but this is only required when they are in pursuit
of suspicious characters ; they then wish to see all per-
sons who pass through the town.

At whatever port the traveller embarks on • his return,
he must obtain a permit for leaving France from- the
Commissioners of Police. This is procured without
any expense, except out of office hours, when a franc is
expected.

CALAIS INNS.

The tourist should have previously determined on the
inn at which he means to take up his quarters, or ap-
plied to the captain of the vessel to recommend him to
a comfortable hotel ; he will otherwise be sadly annoyed
and distracted by the mob of boys and waiters, each of
whom vociferously recommends and would almost drag
him by force to his favourite inn.

The most superb inn is the hotel formerly the cele-
brated Dessin's, Rue Royale. The apartments are ele-
gant and the accommodation every thing that, can be
wished ; but the charge is proportionable, and will not
suit every pocket.

. At the Royal Hotel, late the Hotel de Kingtlon, Rum
de VEtoile, kept by an Englishman of the nam« of Ho-

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GALA13 INKS. S5

berts, the traveller will meet with good accommodation,
at very moderate chaiges. Mr. Roberts himself presides
at the table d'hote, which combines French and English
cookery. Visiters however may have their meals quite
in the English style if they prefer it.

At Meurice's Hotel, Rue de la Pinson, also he will find
much civility, but the charges are rather high. Seve-
lal of the attendants, as well as Mr. Meurice himself,
speak English, and many of the floors are furnished with
carpets.

The Hotel de Bourbon kept by RignoUe, is a good
inn, whence the mail starts every evening.

The diligence, connected with the Golden Cross, Char-
ing Cross, puts up at No. 14, Rue de la Mer, which is
only an office, and not an iun. At the British Hotel,
next door to the coach office in the Rue de la Mer, the
London papers are taken in.

The other Hotels at Calais are the White Hart, Rue
Royale; the Silver Lion, Rue Neuf; Hotel de Brussels,
Rue St. Michael; Diligence Hotel, Rue de la Mer; and the
Crown Hotel, Rue de la Mer. The last, kept by Mr. Law-
son, is a very comfortable inn, and is particularly conve-
nient to travellers going to Paris, as it adjoins the sea-gate,
and is within two or three doors of the diligence offices.

The following may be considered fair charges at most
of the hotels in Calais ; at Dessin's and Meurice's, how-
ever, they would be rather higher.

Table d'hote -

' Ordinary wine, that is, the usual wine
of the country - - . -

Champagne or Claret - - -

Lodging- - - - - -

Breakfast - -

• Breakfast, with eggs _ - -

The waiters at inns in France do not expect more than
1 franc per day, the chambermaid 1 franc, and the porter
half-a-franc.

The inns of Calais will give the stranger a specimen of
the inns in France. Every thing is showy and gaudy, but
there is noore .sp^ndoui than comfort* Large murr^rs

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Yanc,

?. CeiUs

M6 MODE or LtVm« 19 INNS.

extefk! frOTti fhe ceiling tilmost to the grdatid. Tbe pap&t^
han^in^t are beautifal ; while the floor is not only desti^
tute of carpets, but is frequently composed of cold and
chilling: bricks, or octagonal tiles ; and the spacious dis-
mal chimney presents not the vestige of^ a grate. Thfe
very acm6 of Inxury for which the tourist can hope is a
narrow piece of carpeting surrounding the bed, and thi«
only in houses of superior accommodation, and in the
depth of winteTj and even this he mast not expect^
should the floor unfortunately be polished.

MODE OF LIVING AT INNS.

On« of the first concerns with the English trareller,
-!^hen he arrives at his inn, is to order a imbstantial and
comfortable meal. He will now find himself in a new
world, to which he will not immediately be able to ac-
commodate his taste. If he is particular in ordering his
breakfast, he may obtain excellent coifee, or tolerable
tea, and new-laid eggs; but Frenchmen usually breakfast
on meat, to which they add a liberal potation of ordinary
wine.

At dinner our tourist will be convinced that he is in-
deed in France. His roast meat, if he is fortunate enough
to find a roast joint on the board, will be totally destitute
of the true English flavour. The boiled meat had, many
hours before, parted with all its nutritious juices to form
the soup. The various diminutive dishes of meat which
garnish the table will not a little exercise his ingenuity
to divine whether they are composed of beef, mutton, or
veal ; and he will only be able to ascertain that they are
sufiiciently warmed with spices, and somewhat too much
flavoured w'ith sorrel and garlic. K misled by the name,
he should order a '*Bifteck natuTel,or a I'Anglaise,'* he
will find it perfectly destitute of fat, devoid of the natu-
ral flavour of the meat, and sadly inferior to the favourite
and delicious viand, of which the Englishman is never
tired. "Whatever vegetables are served up, they are fre-
quently accompanied with sorrel, or disguised by it. It
is the favoarite sauce of the French. It mast, however,
be acknowledged, that except our tourist be more fas-
tidious than a tmrellet should be; he wifl aoon become

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leconfiileti to the French mode of cookerjr. If the French
are skilful id disguising every dish, they likawise possess
the art of rendering them palatable, and, oot of the
immense variety which every bill of (are contains, the
stranger will select many articles on which he can
dine.

With some of the accompaniments of the dinner-table,
however, the traveller will not be so easily satisfied. He
will frequently miss the cleanliness and attention to
comfort, which have habitually endeared to him bi^own
domestic board, in almost every inn he will be pre-
sented with a silver fork, but should his dinner consist
of a dozen dishes, he will be expected to use the same
knife unwiped. £re he begins his meal, that knife will
often appear as if many a week had passed since a soli-
tary attempt bad been made to restore its natural polish ,*
it will likewise usually be of the rudest and meanest
manufacture, and form a strange contrast with the silver
fork which accompanies it« There is scarcely a good
table-knife to be met with at any French inn, unless it
be of English manufacture.

During his short abode at Calais, the traveller will ac-
knowledge the accuracy of these remarks; and as he
advances into the interior, and at his arrival in Paris, he
will find them literally true. In Calais, however, and
for some posts on the road to Paris, the concourse of
Englishmen has been so great, that the innkeepers are
gradually adopting our mode of cookery, and the habits
of our best hotels.

The first question which a traveller is asked, even be-
fore he orders his dinner, except at a table d'hote, is,
** what wine he chooses ?" I would recommend him, if
he be on a frugal plan, to order Beaume or Burgogne,
(see the bill of fore,) which are very pleasant wines, and
in general use. Whatever wine he selects will not be
decanted but brought to him in the black bottle. He
will be supplied with a small tumbler and a decanter of
water, to which the traveller is not at firs| easily recon-
ciled. The Frenchman, however, finds it convenient,
for the wine and water form his usual uble beverage.
The dessert is brought before the cloth is removed} and

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88 CALAIS.

in' the trae French style, the cheese, the salad, and the .
dessert, are eaten from the same plate.

The stranger who is invited to a private houaPe, in
France, should not forget that whatever wine is drank^
is taken during dinner. On retiring to another room^
cups of strong and delicious coffee are served up, after
which a small glass of liqueur is generally taken. The
coffee and liqueur, however, are often taken at the din-
ner-table. In some few families a regu lar tea, or a second
supply of coffee, is introduced, but this is by no means
general.

The Devon or Herefordshire man, who remembers
when cider formed the usual beverage of those countiesj
will not dislike the thin wine, which in France is the sub-
stitute for beer, and which is generally included in the
regular charge for the table d'hdie. The traveller may
have tolerable French beer ; but English porter, which,
he may have excellent and unadulterated, will cost him
nearly two francs per bottle.

DESCRIPTION OF CALAIS.

Calais is situated in the department of Pas de Calais,
and protected by a strong citadel. After enduring a
siege of eleven months, it surrendered to Edward III. in
1347. It was retaken in 1557 by the Duke of Guise, and
again bombarded by the English in 1696, without sus-
taining much damage. The fortifications are good, but
it is more indebted for its defence to its situation, bein^
built in the middle of marshes, which may at all times
be overflowed at the approach of an enemy. The town
is among the few which, from the commencement of the
Revolution, has not been subjected to any scenes of
carnage. It contains about seven thousand inhabitants.

The town is principally built of stone, yet the houses
have a mean and dirty appearance. Most of the streets
terminate in the market-place, or place (Tarmes, which is
not uninteresting when thronged on the Saturday by the
nsighbouring peasantry.

The 1 own-hall, in the place tVarmes, contains busts of
Charles X. and Louis X Vlll., as well as a portrait of the
latter. Here also are preserved the balloon and car with

jitizedbyGoOgh

whioh M. BlaBcbard and Dr. Jeffreyi oroMed the chan-
nel ; and over the stairs is a portrait of Pierre de Belloy,
who wrote the Siege of Calais. In front of the building
are busts of Eustace de St. Piene> Cardinal Richelieu,
and the Duke of Guise.

The interior of the church is considered one of the
prettiest in Franee> and contains numerous chapels
adorned with paintings. The traveller, however, will
lose his time if he be seduced by the rhetoric of his guide
to ascend the tower of the church, to enjoy the superb
prospect which will there be presented to his view.
When he has painfully wound his way to the top, and
given his franc to the specious orator, he will perceive
nothing but a dreaiy expanse of country, relieved indeed
by a sea-view, yet infinitely inferior to that which he has
so lately admired at Dover.

An English clergyman resides at Calais, and performs
the English protestant service every Sanday, in a room
appropriated to that purpose.

The most interesting object at Calais is the Pier ; and
this derives its interest from the continual bustle occa-
sioned by the endless succession of travellers, eager to
gase on the wonders of the Continent, and from the pillar
erected to c»>mmemorate the return of Louis XVIII.
from England. Opposite to this pillar is shown the first
impression of his foot on landing.

The traveller may likewise notice the ramparts, the
barracks, the lighthouse, near the town-hall, the gate
erected by order of Richelieu, and on the wall by the
quay a monument in memory of some shipwrecked
sailors.

At the end of the Rue de la Prison, opening on the
Grande Place, is a gateway which formed part of the
Cour de Guise, where Henry VIII. received Francis I.

Should the traveller be detained at Calais, during the
night, he will remember that he is in a fortified town,
and that the gates are regularly shut in the winter at
five, and in the summer at nine o'clock in the evening.
A small gratuity, however, to the keeper of the Porte
Royale, which is on the land side of the town, will pro-
cwe him admiMioii ix any hour of the night.

■M '

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30 MODBS 09 TEAVBLLING.

The tourist should likewise be informed^ that at the
^n^ater number of the inns on the road, and even in
Paris, the French are not very careful in airing their
linen. They are accustomed to live so much in the
open air, and are so careless with regard to a thousand
little circumstances inseparably connected with the.Eng-
Ibhman's domestic comfort, that the traveller's health
will be frequently endangered, unless he is perpetually
on the alert, particularly respecting the beds.

The tourist may while away a lew of the hours of the
evening at the theatre Rue de la Comidie. The house is
neat, and some of the actors far above mediocrity. The
performance commences at half-past five, and is usually
over at nine. The prices of admission are, amphitheatre
and boxes, 2 francs; pit, 13 sous.

In the Faubourg St. Pierre are public gardens, to
which the middle and lower classes resort on Sunday
evening, and amuse themselves with dancing. The
stranger will be much amused by looking on the happy
groups. He will not, indeed, behold the perfect original
of that lovely picture which Goldsmith has drawn, nor
will he find all that he expected from Sterne's beautiful
account of the Grace after Supper; but he will see much
more grace, and less rudeness, than he would ever find
in an assembly of English mechanics and rustics.

At Dessin's Hotel, is still shown a room in which it is
said Sterne wrote part of his Sentimental Journey.
Over the door is the following inscription, **This is
Sterne's Room."

In the Rue Royale is an excellent library, kept by M.
L^leux, and in the Place d'Armes is a reading-room^
where the English newspapers may be seen.

TRAVELLING IN FRANCE.

Having exhausted the little that is worth seeing in
Calais, our traveller is anxious to continue bis journey.
There are three modes of travelling in France ; in pri-
vate carriages (voUures), a hired carriage {chaise de
j^ste) and the public diligence.
They who hive families^ and posseiBs good strong tra-

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^krm or t^stivq* 81

yellii^ carriagei, will find it infinitely more comfortable
and considerably cheaper, to take them to Calais, or
Dieppe, than to hire a c/icuse de poste at either of these
places. The freight from Dover to Calais, or Brighton
to Dieppe, is far from exorbitant.

Oo landing the carriage at either of these towns, the
traveller will be required to deposit an impost of S5 per
cent, on the estimated value. See Duty on Carriages
A carriage capable of containing four or six persons
may be hired to go from Calais to Paris, for about 51. Ss.
The traveller should take care that the agreement renders
the proprietor of the carriage answerable for any damage
it may experience on the road.

It is, on many accounts, better for the traveller to leave
his own horses at home, and to proceed through France
with post-horses.

As all English carriages have poles, it will be advisa-
ble, if the company does not exceed three in number, to
have their poles replaced by shafts, by which means one-
third of the expense of posting is saved ; for, instead of
four horses and two postilions, they will only pay for
three horses and one postilion. If more than three per-
sons travel in the same cabriolet or limoni^re, the post-
master charges the traveller 40 or 45 sous for each of the
three horses, instead of charging for the fourth horse,
which is never employed.

All the arrangements for posting are simple, and
usually attended to with the most scrupulous exactness,
(See the Table.) The whole of it is completely in the
hands of government. There is no competition on the
road, and they who arrive first are uniformly first accom-
modated.

A book is published, containing every route through
France, &c., alphabetically arranged ; the precise dis-
tance of every place; and the sum to be paid to the
post-master and the postilion. The principal difficulty
which the traveller would otherwise encounter is the de-
mand of a whole, or half, or a quarter of a post, in addi-
tion to the regular distance, on entering or leaving some
towns. These are all mentioned in the book referred

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I^ATBfl QW fOBTlVQi

to, which the traveller m^y consult ftt uny post-house,
as the post-master is compelled to keep a copy. The
Post-road. Bookj published during the reign of Nape-
leon> and containing the routes to all the cities of Eu-
rope, cannot now be purchased in France, but may be
had of the publisher of this work. As a descriptive
Itinerary of France, Eeichard's work will also be found
invaluable.

The distances are calculated by French posts, which
are about five miles and a half each ; but, within a few
posts of Paris, or any large town, these are reduced to five
miles.

The regular charge by authority is one franc and 50
cents, per post for each horse, and 15 sous to the posti-
lion f but as the expedition of the traveller, and much of
his convenience, depend on keeping the driver in good
huoiour^ it is usual to give him about SO sous.

TABLE OP THE PRICE OF POST-HORSES.

CABRIOLETS, CARRIAGES WITH TWO WHEBI.S.

Number of
Peraona.

Number of
Horses.

Price of each
Horse per post.

Sum total.

1
2
S
4

2
8
4
5

fr. cents.

I 50
I 50
I 50
1 50

fr, oents.

4 50

7 50

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RATES OP POSTING. 38

LIMONIERES, CARRIAGES ^ITH FOUR 'WHEELS.

Nnmber of

Number of

Price of each

SomtotaL

Persons.

Horses.

Horse per post.

fr. cents.

1 &2

1 50

4 50

1 50

7 50

1 50

10 50

BBRUNBS.

Kumber of

Number of

Price of each

Sum total.

Persons.

Horses.

Horse per post.

fr. cents.

1 & 2

1 50

7 50

1 50

10 50

1 50

18 50

A child of six years old, and less^ shall . not be con-
sidered as a passenger; two children of less than six
years shall be considered equal to one passenger.

Every carriage may be charged with one portmanteau,
whether it be entire, or in two pails,, and one mail.

Small carriages, with four wheels, known by the name
of Spanish chariots, are considered as cabriolets, whan
they contain but two persons. Chariots with more then
two persons enter into the class of limonieres, when they
have a shaft, and into that of berlines when they have
a pole.

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34 LAW9 RISLATIMG TQ POSTING.

LAWS RBLATIVB TO POSTING.

None but post-masters commissioDed by government
are permitted to furnish horses.

The post-master shall constantly reside at or near the
post-house.

No post-master can hire a postilion without a certifi-
cate of good behaviour.

Travellers are entreated to enter every complaint which
they may have^ against the postilion or master, in a book,
which is kept at every post-house, and regularly inspected
by the director-general.

The post-master is answerable for any accident which
may occur from the carelessness of the postilion, or res-
tiveness of the horses.

Travellers are accommodated in the exact order in
which they or the avant-couriers may arrive.

Every traveller hiring a saddle-horse must be accom-
panied by a postilion, to serve him as a guide.

One postilion may conduct three travellers; but if
there is a fourth, two postilions must be hired.

The chaige is one franc and 50 centimes per post for
every horse, apd 75 centimes for each postilion.

Every traveller may oblige the postilion to carry his
portmanteau, if it does not exceed 80lbs. in weight.

No postilion shall exact more than the sum fixed by
law, or insult the passengers, under pain of such punish-
ment as the director shall inflict.

No carriage shall be compelled to take more than
140lb8. of luggage.

The price of posting shall always be 'paid in advance.

No cs^rriage shall pass another on the road, unless some
accident happen to that which goes before.

Each post shall be run in the space of an hour.

No traveller shall force or mal-treat the horses, under
the penalty of making full restitution for the injury which
he may do.

AH turnpikes, and dues on the road, shall be paid by
the traveller.

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TH OABRIOIiSI't S5

CABRIOLET.

If the traveller is accompanied by his family^ or wishea
to pursue his j6artiey perfectly at his ease, or with his
owfi partifedlar party> and has left his carriage oti the
other side of the -^ater^ he will hire a cabriolet^ or
larger carriage.

The cabriolet is ail uncouth but very convenient Ve-
hicle^ running on two wheels. It is surtounded on the
ioside with a great number of pockets^ and on each side
is a comfortable pillow. It will conveniently accommo-
date two persons. It opens in fronts and has a small
window oil each side, btrt it will be necessary for the tra-
veller carefully to examine if it be weather-tight before
he hires it.

On the arrival of thfe traveller in Paris, the cabriolet id
sent to the Remise, where it stands fifteen days at his
command, and he may, within that time, return in it to
Calais, without additional expense.

These vehicles may be hired at almost any ptice, ac-
cording to their appearance and convenience : but the
usual charge for a comfortable cabriolet, from Calais to
Paris, is about four guineas. The traveller must not give
precisely what is asked hito. The English post-chaise
if unknown in France.

The hiring of the carriage and the postage of the
horses, are two dififereiH affairs, and in different hands.
At any of the principal inns in Calais the traveller may
be furnished with a commodious cabriolet, in which he
will proceed the whole of his journey.

If the traveller is accompanied by a friend, and does
not regard a little extraordinary expense, I would strongly
recommend this mode of conveyance. He is fully master
of hifl time ) he may stop where he pleases ; he is not
compelled to travel by night, and he has a full view of
the country through which he passes.

If a party of gentlemen are careful in making their bar-
gain beforehand, and will fee the drivers liberally, the
strict laws of posting will be often relaxed in their favour,
and toxa or five of them may occupy a handsome car^

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36 THE DILIGENCE.

riage, drawn by three horses ; the expense of which will
not very much exceed that of the common diligence.

DILIGENCE.

The French diligence is a most curious and unique
machine ; it is a strange compound of the English
stage waggon and coach ; and its singularity possesses all
the conveniences of each, without their defects. The
inside is divided into two bodies, each containing four or
six passengers, according to its size ; in front is what is
called the cabriolet of the diligence, with leathern covers,
like the body of our one-horse chaises, to defend both
the head and legs from the weather. These seats, which
hold three persons, are the most pleasant part of the
vehicle, and being little elevated above the springs, there
is scarcely a possibility of the carriage being overturned.
The conductor forms one of the party in the cabriolet ;
but if the weather be fine, he will go on the top of the
diligence. Some diligences have the cabriolet inclosed ;
it is then termed the coupS, and is by far the pleasantest
part of the vehicle.

The inside passengers are seated completely at their
ease, free from the torture to which the unfortunate in-
mates of many of our stage coaches are frequently
doomed; but the smallness of the windows, and the man-
ner in which the seats are arranged, prevent them from
enjoying much view of the country. .

The fare from Calais to Paris is forty francs for the in-
side, and thirty for the cabriolet. The diligence, how-
ever, which performs the journey in thirty hours, chaiges
five francs more.

The regulations respecting the taking of places are ad-
mirable. The seats are all numbered, and are claimed
by the travellers according to the order in which they
have booked, so that the person who first took a place
has the first choice.

A conductor is attached to each machine ; his proper
business is to take care of the luggage, and this duty he
performs with the strictest integrity. When the travel-
ler's portmanteau or parcels have once been consigne<l to
him, ev£ry fear with regard to their safety may be dis-

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T&B PILIGBNCB. 87

missed. He usually presides at the dinner-table of the
passengers, and does full justice to what is provided. He
accompanies the diligence through the whole of the
journey, and at the close of it expects a gratuity of four
or live francs. The drivers likewise expect five sous at
every post, but it is usual to leave this to the conductor^
and pay him at the end of the journey, when it amounts
to four francs, there being sixteen different postilions be-
tween Calais and Paris.

Fourteen pounds of luggage are allowed., and twenty-
one francs per cwt. is-^charged for the overplus.

The diligence starts from Calais about eight or nine
o'clock in the morning, and about the same hour in the
evening ; and, travelling night and day, reaches Paris in
thirty-three or four hours. The usual charges for meals
to the passengers in the diligence are, for dinner, 4
francs,' for supper, SJ fr,; for breakfast, 8^ fr.

The manner of yoking and driving the horses will ap-
pear singular to the tourist. Jn travelling post, one
horse runs idetween two heavy shafts, attached to the
carriage; on another horse, lashed to his side, with
scarcely any harness, and only fastened to the vehicle
by some paltry ropes, sits the diiver. Five or six
horses are generally yoked to the diligence, and it is
very common to see the leaders placed three abreast.
The postilion sits on the near shaft horse, and governs
the leaders more by the sound of his voice, and the long
whip which he hears, than by the simple cords which
serve him a^ reins. The leadeils seem scarcely to belong
to the diligence^ and show the passenger that they are
under little restraint, by numerous playful but to him
terrifying deviations and prancings. Sometimes they
have no reins, and even where these appendages to the
equipage (which the finglishokan has been accustomed
to imagine absolutely necessary, and on which he places
his principal and sole dependence) are found, the French
Jehu scarcely vouchsafes to use them. The tourist,
however, may dismiss every apprehension ; the horses
understand every motion of the driver's whip, and every
tone of his voice; they are under perfect command^
E

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FROtf 01LAt» VO f l&IS.

And An acdidoit in the l*iirifl diligence iU A t&bg lilinoif
unknown.

At St. Denis; which is the IhH stage {iretioas to en-'
tering PariS; the English traveller will no doobt be
amused with the grotesque dress and tintiilabalar taste
of the driver, who attaches small bells to the horses of
the diligence, and appears not a little proud of their
jingling noise.

EOUTE PROM CALAIS TO PARIS.

MEW ROAD, BY ABBEYILLB AMD BEAUYAIS.

Our traveller having decided on the mode of convey-
ance, we will describe his route from Calais to the
French metropolis.

Fur,
6
0
9
5
0

4
0
6
4

6
0
0
9

The traveller quits Calais by the Porte Royale, find
passing on the left, the canals ^f St. Omer, Graveline*^
and Dunkirk, enters the Faubourg St. Pierre, an exten-
sive and populous suburb, and the resort of the middle
and lower classes of the inhabitants of Calais, in the
evening and on Sunday. Here may be seen the burial
ground in which lady Hamilton ^as interted. He then

From

Posts. MUes,

Calais «o Haut Buisson

. 1

k . 7 .

Marquise

13 .

Boulogne

. M

t . 21 .

Samer

Cormont

Montreull

. 1

( . 43 .

KampoDt

[ . 62 .

Nouvion . '^

Abbeville . .

. M

. 70 .

Airaines

. 2

. 83 .

Poix

. 96 .

Oranvillieni .

106 .

ManeillD

. 113

Beauvais

; . 126 .

Koailles

. 135

Puiseux

144

Beaumont

. 161

MoiHselles

. 1^9 .

Saint Denis .

. 167 .

Paris .

. 173 .

>d by Google

flUflea Fort Niihilay, a reg;olar foit^cation, which defends
the approach to Calais, on the land sideband is surrolmded
by Dumerous canals and sluices^ intended to inundate the
country, in case of invasion. — La Chauss^e, a scattered
village^ — a bill, from which there is a noble sea-view,
embiacing the Downs, and the cliffs of Dover— crosses a
Roman road — ^to the Post House of Haut Buisson, on a
hill, commanding a good view.-r-Another bill, which
forms part of the grand chain of mountains crossing Franca
—cross the bridge of Blaeourt — Rousberg mill — to

MARQUISE, a pretty village, with a church at some
distance from the road. The post>house is on the right
hand, and on the left are two tolerable inns : Le Cerf (the
Stag), and Le Chapeau Rouge (the Cardinal's Hat).

Two leagues west of Marquise is Ambleteuse, a small
harbour, where James H. landed in 1688; and at the
same distance is Wissant, another small harbour choked
up with sand, which is said to have been the place
whence Caesar embaiked for England, though Vimereui
in the vicinity also claims this honour.

The traveller then crosses the Selacque, Wacquinghem,
crosses a rivulet to Wimille, prettily situated by the side
ef a considerable lake, formed by the river Wimereuz.
It is interesting, from containing the remains of the ssro-
nauts Pilatre de Rosier and Romain, who were interred
here, near the spot on which they perished. A monu-
ment representing a balloon bursting, is erected close by
the road.

A succession of hills is now seen, as far as Boulogne.
These give various and interesting views of the sea, and
the Port of Boulogne. One, on which are several wind-
mills, commands the whole of the upper and lower town,
the harbour and the monument. An avenue of trees now
conducts to Boulogne, the approach to which is very
pleasing. The diligence passes by the gate of tlie upper
town, and enters the lower.

BOULOGNE is a town of very great antiquity, and is
i^id to liave been built by Julius (Sesar, who is supposed
to have sailed from this port on his expedition against
the Britons. The only vestige of Roman antiquity now
nmaining, is a tower^ bailt in the teign of Caligula,

40 FROM CALAIS TO PARIS.

BoulOj^ne is divided into two parts^ the Haute Ville
and the Basse Ville, connected together by a steep street,
called the Rue Grande, the view down which is much
admired. The former is surrounded by ramparts, com-
manding fine views, and is inhabited by the gentry, while
the latter is occupied by the commercial pait of the
residents.

The Haute Ville contains the church of St. Joseph ;
an English Protestant chapel^ where service is performed
every Sunday ; the town-hall and the Castle ; and in the
Basse Ville the traveller may notice the church of St.
I^icholas, in front of which is the maiket- place; the
Public Library in Rue Grande, open every day except
Tuesdays and Sundays, from ten to two ; and the Fish-
market at the end of Rue de TEcu. Here also is the har-
bour which was enlarged and improved by Napoleon,
and is bordered by a spacious quay. It is situated at the
mouth of the little river L'lane, and is defended by a
pier, to the right of which is the beach, where machines
of English construction are placed for the accommoda-
tion of bathers. Near them is a singular representation
of our Saviour on the cross. The sands here are of con-
siderable extent, and form an excellent promenade at low
water. The Bath-house is a handsome establishment,
comprising an assembly, billiard, and reading-room.

Boulogne has an Agricultural Society, held in the same
building as the public library j a theatre occupied alter-
nately by French and English performers ; commodious
hot and cold baths; two public gardens, one called the
Grand Tivoli, much frequented on Sunday evenings, and
the other, the Capicure, on Monday and Thursday even-
ings; an hospital and a public school. The object,
however, most worthy of the traveller's attention, is the
Monument which is situated about a mile from the town,
and 200 yards from the Calais road. It was commenced
by Buonaparte to commemorate his intended victories
over the English, but little more than the scaffolding was
erected during his reign : it has been since continued by
order of Louis XV ill., atid was completed in 1832. It
19 a noble column of the Corinthian order, 155 Paris feet
in height and 12 J in diau^eter. Th^ view from the sum^.

Digitized by Google

BovLonau 41

waif to wiiich adttsuion may h% obtained for hatf-a-Craacy
ia remarkably fine.

Le Sage, tbe autbor of Gil filai, died at Boulogne in
1T47. Tbe house in wbicb this event occurred is still
standing, and the door bears an inscription respecting it.

A great number of English are resident at Boulogne,
and there are numerous tradesmen from Ixindon who sell
English articles of almost every description. There are
two or three English libraries and reading-rooms. The
post seta out every day for Calais, and takes the letters
ror England. There are two post-bffices, one in the Rue
de Lille, where foreign letters must be post-paid, and the
other in the Rue de I'Hdpital.

At a short distance, on the Calais road, is a mineral
ipring.

The best ian is rHotel d'Angleterre, or the British
Hotel, Rue de I'Ecu, formerly kept by Mrs. Parker.
The charges are reasonable, and the accommodations
are more in the English style, than those usually
found in French hotels. The otber inns are Hotel de
FEiirope, Rue de TEcu, a good English bouse j Hotel
du Nord, Rue de TEcu ; Hotel de Londres, Rue de I'Ecu,
where one of the Paris diligences stops j Hotel de
France, Rue Royale, where another Paris diligence stops ;
the Mortier d'Or, in the Haute Ville ; the Lark Hotel,
which is a mercantile house; and the Hibemia, an Eng-
lish house. The charges at the hotels are much the same
as at Calais.

Provisions at Boulogne are cheap, and the market is
well supplied on Wednesdays and Saturdays. Meat
averages about 4e{, per pound ,* butter, 9d. ; bread, Hd, ;
pickled pork, 6d,; eggs about 9d, for 25; fowls. Is,;
partridges 1«. 6d. a brace. The water is good.

Boulogne contains 80^0 inhabitants, about 8000 of
Whom ate English, and during peace carries on a consider-
able trade with England, but principally contraband, in
brandy, wine, and lace.

Besides the Calais diligences which pass through Bou-
logne, there are others every day which leave Boulogne
in the morning at nine o'clock, and arrive at Paris about
oooBthefollowiogday. ^ o t*

Digitized by CM)©gle

42 FROM CALAIS TfO PARIS.

English coaches also run to and from Calais every day,
and perform the journey in three hours.

Quitting Boulogne the road passes through Capelette —
Ostrohove — across the bridge of Rintaudalle — crosses
another rivulet — Pont de Brique, near which is a cha-
teau where Buonaparte established his head-quarters
during the encampment around Boulogne — passes through
orchards — crosses the Thane — Vergeneau — park of Carly
sur L'lane — crosses the LUane, to

SAMER situated on the summit of a hill, the view
from which, were the surrounding country more inclosed
and better wooded, would be exceedingly picturesque.
The T^te de Boeuf (Bull's Head) is a good inn.

The tourist will now begin to enter on the peculiar
scenery of France. Hitherto he has travelled along the
coast, and has not been able to form any correct view of
the general features of the country.

The scenery of France is on a larger scale than that of
England. The vales are not so abrupt; and the hills
form more rounded and extensive swells. The country
is rarely divided by hedges, as in England, but presents
one unbroken and uninterrupted expanse. The trees, in-
stead of being scattered over the fields, are either col-
lected in clumps round the villages, or form large woods
and forests. The roads are usually bordered with fruit-
trees or elms, and often in double or triple rows. They
are wide, straight, and usually paved in the middle, like
the streets of an English town. The scientific agricul-
turist will perhaps find fault with the husbandry of the
French, but he will see very little uncultivated and un-
tilled land, except in the immediate vicinity of Paris.

The villages generally consist of a row of houses on
each side of the road, which are whitewashed, although
they bear evident marks of the poverty of the inhabitants.
No garden is attached to them ; no little piggery, or shed
for poultry ; and it may be mentioned, as the characteris-
tic peculiarity of the French villages, except in the neigh-
bourhood of Paris, that there are no houses adapted for
the residence of the middle classes of society. One or
two chateaux occupy the most conspicuous parts of the
hamlel, and these are often seen ii) a -melancholy slate of

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MOKTRBmL. 49

dilapidation. The remainder of the village is inhabited
by a peculiar class of landholders, who occupy eachafew
roods, which they purchased at a tenth of their value
daring the Revolution ; and by a disproportionate num*
her of persons, who are too idle to work, and are desti*
tute of every means of subsistence.

The poor laws are unknown in France. No public
provision is made forage, sickness, or misfortune; it is
not therefore surprising, that the number of mendicants
should be great. The natural frivolity of the French
character contributes to increase this evil. The common
people live merely for the passing day ; they lay up no
provision for the future ; and when age or misfortune
overtakes them, they have no resource but the charity of
individuals.

On leaving Samer, the traveller descends a steep hill,
crosses a rivulet — Vernicourt — crosses a river — Panem-—
by the forest of Tingry, just before which there is a fine
view-i-over a hill to the post-house of Cormont— forest
of Longvilliers, beyond which is an extensive prospect —
a hill from which the ocean is visible at nine miles dis-
tance— crosses the Etrelles — to Montreuil, romantically
situated on the summit of a rock.

MONTREUU^ contains 3,500 inhabitants, and is sup-
posed to be nearly impregnable. It is accessible only by
two gates ; one on the Boulogne, and another on the Ab-
beville side. The name of Montreuil frequently occurs
in the history of France ; and the ruins of many a stately
edifice are yet to be seen. The remains of the ancient
church of Notre- Dame will particularly attract attention.

The town forms a miserable contrast with the beauty
of its situation. The streets are narrow and dirty, and
an appearance of poverty pervades the place. The post-
house is in the Grande-Rue. The inns are the Hotel de
France, in Grande- Rue, the Hotel de TEurope, and La
T^te de Boeuf.

The aspect of the country now changes and becomes
barren and flat. Three miles from Montreuil, the tra-
veller enters the forest of Wailly— village of Wailly —
Nampont St. Firmin— crosses the Authie— Nampont St,
Martin, in which is the post-house— Veron— forest of

44 FROM OALIIS WO 9ARIS.

Cre89y, a name connected with one of tbe f>rig!ite8t pages
of English history — crosses the Maye — ^Bernay, beyond
which is a steep hill^ commanding a fine view^ and
crowned by an hotel appropriately called Bellevue—
Forest-Moutier — to Nouvion, a pretty place^ bearing a
strong resemblance to an English village.

The country now begins again to improve, and is plea-
singly diversified with woods and vineyards. In the ap-
pearance of the latter^ the traveller will possibly experi-
ence some disappointment. An English plantation of
raspberries far exceeds the vines in height.

At a mile and a half from Nouvion, the road finally
emerges from the forest of Cressy, and the traveller then
passes Hautvilliers to Abbeville.

APBEVILLE is seated on the river Somme, where it
divides into several branches, and separates the town
into two parHli. Its manufactures consist of woollen
cloths, carpets, coarse linens, sail-cloth, and soap. The
firont of the church of St. Wilfred, at Abbeville, with its
two towers, numberless niches and statues, with all their
accompaniments of fret-work and carving, affords a most
beautiful specimen of Gothic architecture, in its richest
style. The ramparts of the town form an agreeable pro-
menade. Abbeville contains 18^000 inhabitants.

The theatre in the Rue de Larque is open on Sunday
and Thursday — First boxes, SS sous ; second ditto, 20
sous; pit, 15 sous.

One of the diligences stops at the T^te de Boeuf (Ball's
Head), Rue St. Qile». The post-house is in the same
street. The Hotel de TEurope, the Hotel d'Angleterre,
and the Hotel de France, are also good inns.

There i^ a diligence from Abbeville to Dieppe. The
distance is about 40 miles, and the fare about 9 francs.

On leaving Abbeville, the traveller proceeds to Pont
Remyj where there are two bridges over the Somnne j
thence to Airaines, near the road to which is a remark-
able height called Caesar's Camp.

AIRAINES is a tolerably well-built town, situated on
three small rivers : it trades in linseed oil, flax, beach-
ipast, camomile, hempseed, and nuts. It has several

>d by Google

~ BBAUVAI8. 4S

manufactoTies of 'packing and sail-cloth^ and numeroiis

oil-mills. The post-house has a good inn.

: From Airaines the road passes through a valley and

over a hill to Arbre-^-Mouches — Warlos — a valley —

small "wood — hill^— hamlet of Camp TAmeiBois — Lin-

cheux — ^wood of Croisrault — to

. POIX, a market-town, with a post-house and inn. The

road from Rouen to Amiens, which communicates with

Dieppe by NeufchEtel and joins the two Calais roads,

crosses this place.

Beyond Poix the traveller passes over a barren moun-
tain, enters the department of the Somme, <;rosses the
valley and small river Tosac ; and a league and a half
from it, reaches

GRANDVILLIERS^a neat market-town, which has
been rendered commercial by its markets and its manu-
factories of serges and hosiery. It has brocul streets,
which meet in a tolerably large and handsome square.
The Hotel d'Angleterre is a tolerable inn.

Beyond Grandvilliers are seen fields of com inter-
spersed with groves, through which the road passes to
Marseilles, which has two tolerable inns, I'Ep^e Royale,
(the Royal Sword), and le Grand Cerf, (the Stag). To
Beaupr^ — Achy — St. Omer-en-Chauss^e — Froissereux,
whence a road branches off to Dieppe, along the river
Tberain, although not in sight of it \ near Notre Dame
du Thil to Beauvais.

BEAUVAIS is the chief town of the Oise, and is
situated on the Therein. It is celebrated for its dyes,
bleaching yards, and springs of mineral water, and has
numerous manufactories of cloth, serges, flannels, cop-
peras, sulphate of iron, printed calicoes, and woollen
cloths. There is likewise a manufactory for tapestry, es-
tablished in 1664, which is nearly equal to that of the
Gobelins. The streets are broad, and some of the houses'
handsome. The great square, the town-house, . and the
choir of the cathedral, are worthy of notice. In the
interior of this church may be seen the beautiful tomb of
Cardinal Forbin, by Coustou, and three tapestry hangings
executed in this town : one of them, representing the
healing of the paralytic, is copsidered a fine work. The

Digitized by Google

4M FROM GjUJlIS 9a PARIS.

ubuifib of St. StepOieh desires attention an account of
its painted windows, the beautiful picture of the carrying
pf the cross, and the tomb in relief, supposed to have
been a Roman monument.

Beauvais has been denominated La Pueelle, becaustt
it has never been taken, although several times besiq^ed.
A solemn procession, in which the women take prece-
dence, is held on the 10th of Juljr, to commemorate the
bravery of Jeane Hachette, who, assisted by the female
part of the inhabitants, compelled the duke of Burgundy
to raise the siege of the town in 1479. Beauvais has a
library, a cabinet of natural history, a theatre, and a
promenade on the new bpulevard. A fair is held here
the first Saturday in every month.

The principal inns are— Le Cigne, Les Trois Fleurs de
Lis, Le Lion d'Or, La Couronne, Le Per de Cheval, and
the Hotel d^Angleterre, whence the diligences set out for
Rouen.

From Beauvais, the traveller proceeds through the
suburb of St. James, across the river Therain, through
Lazare — Warluis — Roye — Noailles — St. Genevieve — La
{droix — Ovillers — Puiseux — Chambly — to Beaumont

BEAUMONT is situated on the left bank of the Oise,
and trades in corn and flour. The principal objects
worthy of notice are the street crossing the market, the
dock-tower, and the beautiful promenade which over-
looks the rich valley of the Oise. A quarter of a league
N.E. of Beaumont is a spot generally called the Camp of
Caesar, although it exhibits no vestiges of antiquity. Le
Paon is a tolerable inn.

From Beaumont the road passes through Presles, by
several chateaux, and through La Maison Neuve — Mois-
selies Poncelle— St Brice — Pierre Fitte — to

^ ST. DENIS, for a description of which see the En-
virons. From St. Denis the traveller crosses the rivulet
of Grose, and passing by Belleville— Su Chaumont— and
Montmartre, enters Paris.

>d by Google

»tfatn«afr«

4I¥

llOtJtE Pnon CALAIS fd tARIS.

OtiJ ROAD; THkonOEt AtillBTlltB; A]IIEN8> ANI} CHAN-
l-ILLT.

From

Poi

Calais to Abbeville, as
Aillyle Haut

at p. a

S .

Cloche

;r . U

Flixecotirt

Picguigny

. r

Amiens

. . u

Hebecourt

. . 1

Flers

;

. . 1

Breteoil

. : It

Wavigrny
Saint Just

. . 1

Clermont (Oise;)

Lingueville

. 1

Gbatitilly

. . 1

Lazarches

Ecouen

. X

St. Denis

. 1

Pftris

. 102

. 108

. 114

128

133

. 142

149

. 167

16S

. 169

. 175

. 179

For a description of the route as far as Abberille/ see
the route from Calais to Paris, through Abbeville and
Beauvais.

On quitting Abbeville, the road passes over a country
nearly flat, to Ailly le Hai^t Clocher, where the traveller
changes horses. This village is pleasantly situated
amidst woods, but the country very soon becomes more
open« and the road crosses several hills, and two branches
of the Berteaucourt, to

FLIXKCOURT, a small town pleasantly situated, but
dirty and badly built. The post-house and the church
are on the right hand.

The traveller then ctosses a hill — wood of Prieurej
beyond which is an interesting view of the Somme and
its banks— Chauss^fe sous Picquig^y — crosses two rivu-
lets—to

PICQUIGNY, a post-town, and once an important and
formidable place, bat now little better than a hamlet.
No traces of its chateau remain except the terraces to the
aw. This place is celebrated for the interview between
LottU Xi. of Fiance a^d Edward King of EnglMwii and fot

Digitized by Google

48 FROM CALAIS TO PARIS*

the death of William of Noimaady, siirnamed Long
Sword, who was assassinated here. »

The road then passes through Breilly — Aillysur Somme,
a little before which , on the opposite side of the river, is
an encampment attributed to the Bomans — Dreuil —
Montiers, beyond which the tourist enters the suburbs
of Amiens, and in traversing them, crosses three branches
of the river Celles ; after which he passes by a favourite
promenade of the inhabitants, called L'Autois, and enters
the town.

AMIENS is the capital of the department of the
Somme, formerly Picardy, and an episcopal see. It is
a city of very great antiquity. Mention is made of it in
the Commentaries of Caesar, under the title of Samaro-
briva, and, conjointly with Lutetia, it was the residence
of most of the Roman emperors during their occasional
visits to Gaul.

It is better built than most of the French towns, and
contains 40,000 inhabitants. The cathedral is the most
perfect in France, and has been called tlie chef-d'oeuvre
of Gothic architecture. It was built by the English
during the regency of the duke of Bedford. The portals
at the entrance and the stalls of the choir have been uni-
versally admired. The pillars which separate the chapels
from the choir are distinguished by a peculiar phenome-
non : when struck they sound like a bell . In the tower
is shown a small room from which Henry IV. viewed the
forces besieging the town. The curious construction of
the spire, and the great variety of the architectural orna-
ments are also pointed out to the visiter.

The Town House, built by Henry IV,, the Corn Hall,
the College, and the remains of the Palace once inhabited
by Henry IV., but now occupied by several fiamilies, are
also worthy of notice.

The river Somme runs through Amiens; and, being
cut into almost innumerable canals, gives to one part of
the place the appearance of a Dutch town. On its banks
is a tower, for supplying the town with water, which com-
mands a good view.

.The ramparts, which formed a circumference of three
P^il«8, have been converted into promenades, and are a

>d by Google

AMIBK8. 40

fEiYonrUe lesort of the inhabitants ; the view from them
is far more beautiful than can be expected from a town
situated on a plain.- Another favourite promenade of the
citizens is L'Autois^ by which the tmveller passed on his
eDtrance into Amiens.

A pretty theatre, in Rue des Troif CaiUaux, is open on
Sunday, Tuesday, and Thursday. First boxes, 3 francs;
second boxes, 27 sous ; pit, 1 franc.

The post-house is in Rue des C&rdeUers; it is called
the Hotel de la Coinire, and is a good inn, with a table
d'hote at three o'clock. The Paris diligences likewise
stop here. The Hotel de I'Abreuvoir, Hotel de France,
Hotel des Ambassadeurs, and Hotel dn Roi de Prnsse, are
also good inns.

Amiens was taken by the Spaniards in 1597. The
stratagem by which the Spanish general Telles gained
possession of the pieice is curious and well known. He
caused a cart-load of nuts to be overturned at one of the
gates ; and, while the guard was scrambling for the fruit,
he rushed into the town with a chosen body of men
which he had jdaced in ambush. The fortress was soon
afterwards le-taken by Henry IV.

The short and hollow peace of 1802 was signed here,
in the town-house.

The principal manufactures of Amiens are linen an^
woollen cloth. The latter of these used to employ more
than 8,000 mechanics. Provisions of everj' kind are re-
markably cheap at Amiens ; and many English femilies,
of small income, are settling in its neighbourhood.

Should business or pleasure detain ' the traveller at
Amiens, he will find daily conveyance to Paris. The fare
of the Amiens diligence is eighteen francs. A franc and
a half is expected by the guard, and one franc by the
driver.

If the traveller should pass through Amiens on the
market-day, he will find the place thronged with the
Picardian peasantry. The men wear blue jackets and
trowsers, or blue frocks, with immense hats^ resembling
those of our Opera-beaux, and the hair tied in an enor-
mous club, and frequently powdered. The women are
seen with 6^e jacke^, ancj^very short Wwe worsted petti-

P jitzedbyGoOgI

BO FROtf OALAtS VO PARtS.

coatft^ itf immease balk> firing a lu^ietotid cm^ndity id
the lower part of their frame.

Quittinf Amiens by the Paris gate, and hatiiig eleared
the suburbs, the trarellet passes by the college of Amienii
over a hill to Dury — H^becourt — St. Saulieu, a laige but
fmiflteresting village — ^hill of Ooardieu — Esserteaux—
post-house, and vUlage of Flers, a pleasant chateaii -^
Mauger — hill of Gallet, commanding an extensive but uQ-
interesting view — ^Folie — 'fisquennoy, a small toWn con-
taining nothing worthy of observation, — to

BRETEUIL, nobly situated at th& browofahill> but
the town itself is mean and dirty. It was formerly a
place of more consequence, and contains some remains
of antiquity. The Hotel St. Nicholas is an excellent inn*
The country, which for a considerable distance has been
dreary and unpleasant, does not yet improve. Leaving
Breteuil, the traveller crosses the Noyez, and two littlei
rivulets, between which are the remains, now mbdemie^j
of the once celebrated Abbey of Breteuil — hill from
which there is an extensive pnJspect — Wavigny, an un-
interesting village, with a post-house— St. Just, a long
straggling town, where the traveller wiU probably change
horses, and beyond which the road improves — cmsses
the Bresche — Valcourt — wood of Fitz-James, near which
are several pleasing prospects^— Petit St. James, opposite
to which are the ruins of the once noble castle of the d«k«i
of Fitz-James — crosses thfe Bresche, to Clermont.

Nothing can exceed the romantic beauty of the situ-
ation of CLERMONT, with which the irregularity and
meanness of the town form a singular contract. The
Romans selected it for one of their stations ; and entitled
it Claromontium, whence the modern name Clermont.
Th& surrounding cotintry is exceedingly fine; and the
town is on the summit of a steep hill, almost surrounded
with wood. Some gardens on the very top of the hill are
unequalled for beauty of prospect. The castle of the
Cond^ family, now a house of correction, surrounded by
a beautiful terrace, and the little church, with its painted
windows, deserve the attention of the curious.

The post-house is in Rue des Fontaines, The dili-
gence stops at the Hotel de FEp^e^ (the Sword Hotel}*

Digitized by Google

Le Point dp Jour u a tplenbly good km, and thMe ai^

two or three besides. The town contains about 9|000
ioliabitaiits.

As the traveller descends the steep hill on which Cler-
pont is built, he passes by some gardens delightfully
situated, and afterwards crosses several brookp — wood of
Nointel^—Rentigny — ^an avenue of trees now commence*
which is continued with no Interruption but that of build"
bgs to Paris — Cauffry — Liancourt, with an extensive
{Hirkand elegant chateau — post-town ofLingueville — No-
gent les Vierges — crosses the Oise^ where an island dir
rides its stream* to

CR1EL> remarkable for the remains of a chateau in
which Charles YI> was confined during his derangement.
It was formerly a fortified town> and not unfrequent men«
tion of it occurs in the history of France. The fortiiea-
tioDS are now dilapidated. The china manufactory here
is falsely said to rival those of Colebrook Dale.

Beyond Criel the traveller enjoys a delighiful prospect
from the summit pf ^ hilU-wood of Hallate — to the town
of Chantilly.

CHANTIlLV was once famed for the beauty of its
gardens, the splendour of its palace, and still more for the
heroes who inhabited it. The hunting-seat of the Mont-
roorencies and the Cond^s is now a heap of ruins. It was
destroyed by a mob from Paris early in the Revolution*
The stables only remain ; and these, even in their dilapi-
dated state, convey no mean idea of the former magoifi-
eence of the place. The building consists of one enor^
roous stable, 600 feet in length, and 40 in height. In the
centre is a lofty dome 90 feet high, and 60 in diameter.
Under this is a fountain which supplies a noble reservoir
formed of the most costly marbles, and enriched by nu-
merous well-executed decorations. This unique apart-*
ment was formerly divided into 400 stalls, but they have
been long ago demolished. When the splendid palace of the
Montmorencies was levelled with the ground, a smaller
chateau connected with it was spared, that it might
aflford a temporary shelter for the revolutionary plunder.
This is now the habitation of the duke de Bourbon, to
w^Qil^ the patri^iony et his apcettors has been restoxed.

Digitized by Google

5d FROM CIALAIS TO PARIS.

It contains nothing to ietnest the traveller's attention*^
unless the melancholy contrast which its hasty and
coarse repairs form with the vestiges of former princely
grandeur.

This town has manufactories of earthenware, china,
cards, lace, and cottons. There is also an hospital
founded by the duke of Bourbon, and at the entrance of
the park may still be seen the theatre, where Moliere^
Racine, and Boileau, amused the great Cond6.
" The church, which is a modem building, contains the
remains of Admiral Coligny, who perished in the massacre
of St. Bartholomew. They were formerly deposited in
the chapel of the chateau.

• Chantilly affords excellent accommodation for the tra-
veller at the Hotel de Bourbon.

- Quitting this town, the road skirts the wood of Chan-
tilly— hill commanding a fine view — Morlaye with a noble
chateau and^ park — crosses the Morlaye and another
stream — to

l^UZARCHES, a small town containing a few oil mills
and a cotton manufactory. It was built and inhabited by
the kings of the second race, who bad two chateaux
here.

The traveller then enters the forest of Champlatreux,
with its superb park and mansion — Menil Aubrey — ^wood
—to

ECOUEN, a neat and well4)uilt town, on the declivity
of a wooded hill. A chateau was built near Ecouen by
Anne of Montmorency, which, on the emigration of the
noble family of the Cond^s, became national property.
The late emperor devoted it to a noble and benevolent
purpose. He established a seminary here for the edu-
cation of the orphan daughters of the members of the
Legion of Honour, which has since been united to that
of St. Denis. The painted glass in one of the galleries
of the chateau has been much admired. The subject
is taken from a work of Raphael, and represents the
history of Psyche. The chapel and the sacristy offer
some well-executed copies of Raphael and Leonardo-da-
Vinci.
. Ecouen has a good inn, the Hotel de Lille, the pro-

>d by Google

ROUTS VBOV CALAIS TO PARISH SB^

prietor of which hat permifsion to introduce ritilera to
the beautiful gardens of the chateaa.

Beyond Ecouen is a hill, whence are seen most of the
Tillages between Luzarches and Ecouen, and in front th«
abbey of St. Denis, and the windmills of Montmartre.
The traveller then arrives at Sarcelles, through the mid«
die of which flows the river Amouville.

As the capital is approached, the country is more
thickly studded with villages, which now begin to pre-
sent themselves on either side in almost uninterrupted
■accession. A description of those which contain any
thing peculiarly worthy attention will be found in the
account of the environs of Paris. The road then lies
through Pierrefit(&— crosses the Rouillon and two brooks,
to

ST. DENIS, which, with its venerable abbey, will be
particularly noticed among the environs. Beyond St.
Denis was a convent, now converted into spacious bar-
racks.

Some little obelisks are passed on the left of the road.
The common people affirm, that on the spot where each
is erected, St. Denis halted in his strange and miraculous
journey after his decapitation. They were, however,
i^Milly intended to designate the places where Philip the
Bold and his brothers rested, when they bore the corpse
of their father from Paris to St. Denis.

The village of La Chapelle is now traversed; soon
after which the traveller arrives at the Barrier of St. Denis,
and enters the capital of France.

BOUTE FROM CALAIS TO PARIS.

THROUGH ST. OMBR AND ARRAS.

QALAJ9 to Ardres

La Recoagse
St. Oraer
Aire
Lillers
Betbune .
Souchez .
Arras

Ports.

MiUt.

\ IJ

. 27

. 88

. 46

, 55

• 7S

Fvr,
0
4

4
4
6
0
0

54 mOK CALAIS TO PjLRIS.

, Between Calais and Ardres, the traveller crosses over
the two canals from St. Omer to Calais, and from Ardres
to Gravelines, by means of a superb double-bridge^ called
the Pont'sam-Pareil,

ARDRES is a small but strong town^ with about 600
inhabitants.

ST. OMER is an ancient, large^ and well-built town
on the Aa. The cathedral is a fine . Gothic edifice, the
interior of which is enriched with chapels, a beautiful
organ, a splendid pulpit ornamented with finely-carved
figures of Faith and Hope, several marble columns^ the
tomb of St. Omer, and a colossal grotesque figure, called
the Grand Dieu du Thdrotianne. The other objects at St.
Omer, demanding attention, are the churches of St. IDenis
and St. Sepulchre, the church and library of the college,
the theatre and the promenades in the suburb of HautPbnt.
Fairs of nine days at Shrovetide and 30th September.

The principal inns are, the Hotel d'Angleterre, the
Ancient Post-House, the Great St. Catherine, and the
Hotel de Dunkerque.

AIRE is a strong and beautiful town at the confluence
of the Lys and Laquette, with manufactories for oil,
white soap, china, starch, blankets, and for spinning flax.
The Hotel de Ville, in the square, the church St. Paul,
the barracks, and the fountains, are worthy of notice.

LILLERS, on the Nave, has potteries, and oil and
flour mills, and trades in linen. There is a good inn, a
handsome square, and beautiful fountains.

BETHUNE is a town on the Lave, which runs through
it. It is tolerably well fortified. The surrounding pas*
turages are covered with flocks. Its cheese is much ad-
mired ; and great quantities of cambric and lawn are
manufactured here. The principal church is remarkable
for the elegance of its nave, supported by very slender
columns. There is a navigable canal from Lagorgue to
Bethune, where it forms a beautiful dock capable of ad-
mitting large barges.

The principal hotels are Hotel de France, Hotel d'An-
gleterre, and [^ Lion d*Or.

[For a continuation of the Route, see Route from
London to Paris by Margate and Ostend.]

Digitized by Google

FROM LONDON tO BRIGHTON. Si

KOUTE FROM LONDON TO PARIS,

BY BRIGHTON AND DIEPPE.

London to Brighton, Mail Road through Croydon,
Ryegate, and Crawley.

Miles. I Miles.

Staplefield Common . . 36|
To Piecombe (hy new road) 47*
Brighton . . . 52|

30|

Ckoydon (as at No. 5)

Ryeg^ate

Crawley

Or, through Cuckfield.

Staplefield Common'Cas above) 36) I Piecombe
Cuckfield .... ,. 40 | Brighton

48J
53

S. London to Brighton, by Mitcham and Ryegate.

Kennington
Lower Tooting
Upper Mitchaia
Sutton

IJ I Gattoninn*
6 I Ryegate

74 Brighton Ua at No. 1)
Ujl

Lower Tooting
Morden
£weU
Epsom
Ashstead
> Leatherbead

3 London to Brighton, through Horshanu

12:.

15^
163

18i

Burford Bridge

Dorkiag

Horsham

West Grinstead

Steyning

Brighton

Horsham (as above)
Ccwfold

OR,

36^ I Woodmancote
43i I Brighton

4. London to Brighton, by Lihdfield.

rreen (as at

. . 243

mmon . 30|

d6i

New Chapel Green (as at

No. 5)
Siddlesfield Common
Lindfield

Ditchling
Piecombe
Brighton

19i

52J

614

44|
484
544

• A new road, which branches oflF from Gallon to Brighton, has
been lately opened, but it is not frequented by the stages, and is very
little shorter than the above road.

>d by Google

Digitized by Google

I'ARIS. .

. Houlevani dea i

. uo Ste. Croix.-

' nioRivoliand r

H>n, or the Mait

li,* rue de CHi

nrsnil, rue de la

<lu Roule. — Ho

.ioule — ^Paik of

1 toile,» at the l^

IS I. — Pompe-it-fi*

valides,* or do 1'

nt'La SaTonnorie/

U oval •.—Theatre

!i of St. Roch,* 1

de Richelieu.-— L

rue Ncuve dci

>, rue St. Honors. -

ihomas.— Comic O

* Place dei Itali

a mas. — Theatre dc

— Chineie Bath^i, I

ra,* rue I^pelle

Menus Plaisira du

nnipre* — Church <

ir of Montmartre^

Post-OfBce, rue
S with Statue of
'a;2:o.coache8for al

■ Notre Dame (k
■«• MoDtmartre. — (I

— Priion of 8t. I
du Faubourg St,

[l r France,* me

rmes, roe de Gi

Corn Market.)—:
-<J loth Market.— <

>d by Google

9^0!|l|PfIQV 09 mXPBB.

6. London to Brighton^ by Croydon, ^ast Gri^^ad, and
Lewes.

To Kennikoton
Brixton Causeway
Stre»tham

Miles.

Ceotdow

Rose and Crown inn

MUes.
144

[Or, hy keeping alonn Smetham Bottom to the rights about
half a mile, and then hearing to the left, a new road it
made to fhe Rose q,nd Crown, which avoids Riddlesdown
Hillf and is only a quarter of a mUe farthei\ Route to
Ryegate, nine miles,]

Godstone Green
New Chapel Gree^
East Gbinstxao .
W'ych Cross

To Wych Cross, as above
Sheffield Bridge
Chadley

19
243

Uckfield

Lrwes Town-hall

Brighton.

0R>

33^ I Offam Street
38| Brighton
42}

414

68i

66*

The packets from Brighton to Dieppe, the times of
sailings and the ysual fares, have already been described
(page 17.) The length of t^e passage is extremely un-
certain. With a favourable wind, it has been performed
in seven hours, but many persons have been detained
nearly forty-eight hours on shipboard; it will, therefore^
be necessary to lay in a sufficient stock of provisions.

DESCRIPTION OF DIEPPE.
An enormous crucifix on the quay is one of the first ob-
jects that presents itself, as the vessel approaches Dieppe.
A little beyond it, is a house erected as a reward for the
maritime services of one Bouzard, and on the opposite
pier, in the wall towards the basin, is an inscription com-
memorative of the landing of the duchess of Angouleme.

The quay itself bears much resemblance to that of
Calais, and exhibits equal bustle and confusion. The
traveller wiU be instantly surrounded with the same host
of porters, clamorously contending for the honour of con-
veying his baggage to the hotels and the same ceremoniid^

>d by Google

DESCRIIPTXON Ol- DIEPPE. 57

await him with the police and custbm-hoase officers.
The best inns are

The Hotel de Londres, situated on the quay, facing: *he
Exchange. It has an excellent table d'h8te at 4 o'clock,
and here carriages may be hired to go to any part of
France. Diligences set out from this hotel for Rouen
evtery day at 10 o'clock in the morning, at 12 at noon,
and at 10 in the evening.

The Grand Hotel du Roi d'Angleterre, No. 6 and No.
10, on the quay, conducted by Mrs. Delarue, who for-
merly kept the Hotel de Londres.

The Grand Hotel de Paris, Grande Rue, No. 75, fur-
nishes a good table d'hote at 4 o'clock, and here also
families may be accommodated with private rooms.

The traveller will also find comfortable and reasonable
accommodations at the Hotel de Rouen, or at the Hotel
de I'Europe, No. 41, on the Quay. The Hotel d'Angle-
terre, or Taylor's British Hotel, under the Arcades, is
also a good inn. It has good stabling, and there is a
table d'h8te every day.

The post-office is in the Rue du Cours.

Dieppe is situated at the mouth of the river Arques,
and contains about 20^000 inhabitants. It is a town of
great antiquity. The peculiar and grotesque appearance
of its houses, overhanging its narrow and filthy streets,
sufficiently indicates this. The harbour is secure and
spacious; it is capable of containing 200 merchant-ves-
sels, and an equal number of smaller fishing-craft. There
is also a basin for the reception of frigates and lighter
ships of war.

The principal trade is in fish. Some interesting and
long-established manufactories of ivory toys are found
here. The inhabitants of Dieppe affirm that they first
discovered the coast of Guinea, and introduced the ele-
phant's tooth into France; and from that period they
have been ambitious to excel in the construction of every
article composed of this material.

The church of St. Jacques is an ancient and pleasing
structure. The tower affords an extensive view of
Dieppe, the surrounding country, and the ocean. The
white cliffs of the English coast are seen in the horizon.

Digitized by VjOOQli

69 ^90imzPTZoii Off Dinpra.

The cattle) that ov^rhan^t the town, offers a yet flnejr
view, but it is difficult to obtain access to it. The ave-
nues leading to the castle will, however, repay the tra-
veller for the trouble of ascending them, by the varied
and lively scenery which they present.

Dieppe is much frequented as a watering-place, and
pn the beach, near the castle, is an elegant modern
building for the accommodation of bathers. It consists
of a covered promenade, at one end of which is a read-
ing and at the other a billiard-rooml On the S. side of
the town along the river-side is the Course, a promenade
about half a mile in length.

About fonr miles from Dieppe are the picturesque
ruins and church of the chateau d^Arques.

Few things will appear more singular to the stranger
than the headrdress of the lower and middling classes of
the female inhabitants of Dieppe. It has remained un-
changed from time immemorial, and is peculiar to this
part of Normandy. It consists of a pasteboard frame,
frequently of more than half a yard in height. The lower
pert of it is covered with silk, which is sometimes edged
with gold or silver lace. Above this is an immense
muslin lappet, white as the driven snow, and often full
one-fourth the height of the wearer. Ridiculous as the
description may appear, and singular as the dress really
is, it is very far from being unpleasing ; at least the taste
with which it is ornamented, and the red gowns, cloaksi
and petticoats, with which it is usually accompanied|
render the peasant girls of Dieppe and Normandy no un-
interesting objects to the stranger.

FROM DIEPPE TO PARIS.

From Dieppe tp Paris are two routes : the first 1 1 1
miles^and the second, through Rouen, 186 miles. The
tourist may travel post either way; but, except he be
very niuch pressed for time, I wopld earnestly recom-
meqd him to choose the latter, which conducts him
through a country little inferior to the most beautiful
ai|d luxuriant districts of England. There are diligences
on both routes.

Digitized by Google

ROUtEJ FkoM DIEPPE TO PARIS,

BV FOkGES AND PONtot^E.

, SI . . 819
, 1 J . . 8S7i
. 1) ... 835ft

Posts. Miles, Posts. MileSf

Dieppe . . — . , 130| Chars . . 3 . . S06j

BoU-RbbeTt . IJ . . 137} Pontoise .

Pommereval . 2 , . 148i Franconville

Forges' . . 3. . . 165| Saint Denis . ..

Goumay . . ^i . . 179 I^aris . . . 1 . . 841

disors . , 3 . . 195i

t*01lGES is a market town, on an eminence, noted
for its mineral waters. It has also eood promenades.

GOURNAY is a smdll town at the confltielicfe of the
Epte and the St. Aubin. A latge market for provisions
is hield here on Tuesdfly. It has manutactories of linen,
china, and leather, and in the vicinity are springs of
Inineiral water.

GISORS is situated on the Epte, ih a fertilfe conhtry.
It has large corn-markets^ dnd manufactures cotton and
laces. The church is adorned with beautiful windows
and several specimens of sculpture, amongst which is a
striking skeleton. ^

PONTOISE wai formerlv celebrated for a strong
tastle, which the Englii^H tobk by stratagefti in 1438, but
which was retaken by Charles Vll. ih 1442. In 1652,
1720, and 1753, thfe parliaments of Paris were tranil^
ferred to this place. The town is divided into Upper
and Lower, and is seated at the confidence of thfe Viomfe
and the Oise. The church of St. Martin is a good spe-
cimen of architecture, and in that of St. Mdclbu is a flne
painting of our Saviour's entombment. Pontoise has an
agricultural society and a cotton factory, and carries on
a considerable trade in corn, flour, and calves, for which
it is famous. Its environs arb pretty.

The principal inns are Le Pot d'Etaih, Hotel de
France, and Vs Grand Cerf.

FRANCONVILLE. If the traveller has a few hours
to spare he will be much pleased v»ith the gardens of a
chateau in the vicinity, which are laid out with a sim-
plicity rately seen in Prance.

ST. DENIS. ISee Environs.

Digitized by Google

PROM DLBPPE TO PARIS.

FROM DIEPPE TO PARIS,

BY ROUEN AND ST. GERMAIN-EN-LAYB.

Posts,

MUes.

S .

. 130f

2 .

. 141|

H '

. 150

l| .

. 158J

2 .

. 169j

U .

. 177|

l| .

. 1851

2 .

. 196f

u .

. 206l

Posts.

Bonnieres . . 14 .

Mantes . . ij .

Meulan . ; 2 .

Triel . . . I .
St. Germain-en-

Laye . .• U^ . . 246^

Nanterre . . 1} . . 259

Paris . . . 1} . . 266^

Dieppe .

Osmonville

Testes

Cambres .

Rouen

Port &t. Ouen

Vaudreuil .

Gaillon

Vernon

The first part of this route, and extending many miles
beyond Rouen, forms a striking contrast to the descrip-
tion which we have given of the general scenery of
France. The long, unbroken, undeviating line, that dis-
pleases and tires on other routes ; the total want of in-
closures and hedge-rows, which, notwithstanding the
most admirable system of cultivation, conveys an idea of
waste and neglect; the absence of those country-seats
that decorate the English roads, and indicate the opu-
lence of the inhabitants ; and the more melancholy ab-
sence of the numerous flocks of sheep and herds of cattle,
which animate the scenery of most of the British coun-
ties, and excite in the mind of the solitary traveller a
pleasing feeling of society, and of comfort, — with these
faults the route from Dieppe to Rouen is not chargeable.
On the contrary, the inequalities of the face of the coun-
try ; the sudden and abrupt declivities; the hills not
naked and bare, but clothed with wood, or with verdure,
to their very summits ; the rapid . succession of villages
and chateaux ; the numerous rivulets which rush through
every valley; and the cattle, not as in other parts of
France, inclosed in the home-shed, but grazing in the
inclosures, that diversify this district, strongly bring to
the traveller's recollection the beautiful scenery of
Devon, Somerset, or Hereford.

If the traveller proceeds by the diligence he should
take a place as far as Rouen only, whence he may con-
tinue his route as his business or pleasure permits. The
inside fare from Dieppe to Rouen is eight fjrancs^ besides

>d by Google

ROUBN. 61

one franc to the cooductor, and the journey is accom-
plished in about six hours. The whole fare from Dieppe
to Paris is about 27 francs inside, and 22 outside.
The tourist quits Dieppe by the suburb of Barre,

and passes to Janval — fine prospect — hill of St. Aubin

village of St. Aubin-sur-Seye — Sanqueville— cross the
Seye — Patteville — ^Calmon — Catteville — to the little post
town of Osmonville. — ^Thence the road passes to Venise
— and to the village of Tostes, which has a tolerable
inn. — ^The traveller then proceeds to Valmartin — Boulay
— Cambres — crosses the wood of Bourgut — crosses the
Cailly — Malaunay — Haulme — Bondeville — to Deville. As
the traveller passes through the valley between this and
Bapaume, he sees many bleaching grounds, paper manu-
foctories, and mills of various descriptions — hill of Tri-
boudet — valley of Yonville — ^reaches the Seine. The
road is here skirted with a double row of trees, and
assumes that straight direction which displeases so much
in the roads of France ; but the neighbourhood of the
river, and the view of the majestic capital of Normandy,
more than compensate for this disadvantage.

The tourist is here treated with a specimen of the
peculiar manner of lighting the roads in the greater part
of France. Hopes are stretched across the road from
tree to tree> and lamps are suspended in the centre.
This is a vestige of the total disregard which used to be
paid to the convenience and comfort of the middle and
lower classes. The roads in France are infinitely wider
than in England. The lord who travels in his carriage
in the centre of the highway, where there is nothing to
impede his progress, or endanger his safety, enjoys the
full benefit of the light, while scarcely the dimmest ray
reaches the pedestrian at the side, for whom neither
pavement nor foot-path is prepared, and who splashes
his way through the mire as well as he can.

The traveller passes through the suburb of Cauchoise,
and enters Rouen by the gate of HUvre.

ROUEN, formerly the capital of Normandy, is now

styled first city of the department of Lower Seine, and

is an archbishop's see. It stands north of the river, is

seven miles in circumference, including its six suburbs

Digitized by Google

0S FROM DlflPra to PARIS.

and it computed to totttain 90,000 inhiibitantit. Al in
most towns of great antiquity^ its streets are' narrow abd
crooked^ and its houses built of wood : notwithstanding
which, it is one of the most opulent cities in France.

The Boulevards, which almost surround the city, form a
singular contract to the darkness and filth of some of the
streets. They are bordered by noble trees, and afford
fine views.

The Cathedral, originally built by William the Con*
queror, is still a noble specimen of Gothic architecture^,
although the beautiful spire which fose fhim its centre,
and formed its most conspicuous orbament, was de-
fttroyed by lightning in Sept. 1822. The front h richly
adorned with carved work, and is surmounted by tiro
towers, one of which formerly contained the celebrated
bell called George d*Amboise, destroyed during the Revo-
lution. The interior presentii several interesting objects,
particularly the inscriptions in memory of Richard Coeut
de Lion, of Henry his nephew, and 6f the duke of Bedford
who burnt Joan of Arc; Here is also a curiously-carved
marble monument in honour of the Cardinals d^Amboise,
uncle and nephew ; and just below it, an inscription to
the memory of Archbishop Cambac^res who died in
1818. On the opposite side of the choir is the tomb of
Bieii, governor of Rouen, who died in 15S1 : one of the
figures is attribute to Jean G.oujon. The altar-piece is
h fine painting by Philip de Chatiipagne. The cathedral
likewise cotitains effigies of Raoul, Duke of Normandy,
and of William Long Sword his son, the second duke
who was killed at Pecquigny ; as well as the monument
erected by Diana of Poitiers in honour of her husband.

Adjoining the Cathedlral is the Archbishop's Palace,
in which are some pictures by Robert.

The Abbey of St. Ouen formerly belonged to the
Benedictines. It is a light and elegant Gothic structure,
adorned with beautiful painted windows, and distin-
guished by a fine spire. A curious optical illusion is
perceptible in this church; the vessel of holy water
against one of the pillars near the principal entrance
reflects the whole building in perspective.

Conttguoua to 6t, Ouen in the Hotel de Ville, a hand*

Digitized by Google

iQme bnildiagwit)! anexlen^tre place in front, and a tmall
but pretty garden l?ehind. A broad staircase, adorned
with a statue of Louis XV., leads to the principal hall, at
the entrance of which are busts of the two Corneilles,
modelled from those by Caffieri. On the second floor is
a Library, of 70,000 volumes, which is open every day
from 10 to 8. It is disposed in three apartments, a
^Uery, a reading-room, and an ante-room. On the labia
in the former is a curious MS., adorned with beautiful
drawings. The Picture Gallery on the same floor con*
tains some fine paintings by Jonvenet, Le Tellier, Lemon,
nier, 8aI?ator Rosa, Paul Veronese, Vemet, Wouver*
manns, Bubens, Raphael, and others, as well as busts of
eminent natives of Rouen. It is open on Thursdays and
Saturdays to the public generally, but every day to
strangers. A catalogue may be purchased at the door.

The Palace of Justice is a Gothic edifice, and was
formerly the seat of the Norman parliament ; but it is
now occupied, as its name imports^ by the Courts of
Law. The principal hall is 170 feet long and 50 broad {
its roof is of wood, and bears considerable resemblance
to a ship reversed.

The Halles, allotted to the Mercers and Drapers, are
immense rooms, in which cottons, cloths, &c. are ex-
posed for sale to the retail dealers. They are situated in
the Vieille Tour near the river-side, and are only open
on Fridays from six till noon. Near the river-side also
is the Exchange, a gravel walk separated from the quay
by » pali^de. In wet weather, however, the merchants
assemble in a large building near it.

The traveller should likewise notice the church of La
Madelaine,an elegant Corinthian building, adorned with
some tolerable pictures; St. Mac Ion, richly sculptured
with Gothic ornaments; the Hospitals; the Botanic
Garden; the Barracks, in front of which is the Champ
de Mars ; the Barracks on the bank of the river ; the
Corn Hall near the Halles, and the Theatre.

Rouen also possesses a Custom House, on which is a
figure of Mercury by Coustou ; an Academy of Pine
Alts, a Mint, Baths, Fountains, and a Board of Trade.

Tha fttbwb of St. Sever, on the other side of the

Digitized by Google

64 FROM DIEPPE TO PARIS.

Seine, communicates with the city by a bridge of boats 9
which rises and falls with the tide. It is the invention
of an Augustine friar, and is so contrived, that, by ele-
vating a draw-bridge in^ the centre, the boat, or rather
the immense barge underneath, slips out, and the largest
vessel passes without difficulty. In five minutes the
boat is replaced in its former position, and pedestrians
traverse the bridge as before ; or in two hours the
whole fabric can be taken to pieces, and put together
again.

Near the Bridge of Boats is the Pont Royal, com-
menced during the reign of Napoleon, but not yet com-
pleted. It is to consist of six arches, and will be 958
Paris feet in length.

Rouen is noted as the birth-place of several eminent
persons, amongst whom may be mentioned the two Cor-
neilles, Fontenelle, after whom one of the streets is
named, Jouvenet the painter, Blondel the mathematician,
and P. Daniel the historian. The house in which the
Great Comeille was born is situated in the Rue de la
Pie, and that in which Fontenelle first drew breath is in
the Rue des Bons Enfans. Both the houses bear in-
scriptions.

In the Place de la Pucelle is a clumsy and ill-executed
statue of the interesting and unfortunate Joan of Arc,
who, to the eternal disgrace of the English general, was
burnt here for sorcery in 1430. In the same place is an
Old House, the interior court of which is adorned with
sculptures, representing the interview between Francis I.
and Henry VIIL, the former of whom is said to have
slept here previous to that event.

Along the bank of the xiver, in the suburb of St. Sever,
is the Course, a charming promenade more than 2000
yards in length. The Boulevards and the Garden of the
Hotel de Ville are also frequented as promenades.

A hill called St. Catherine, in the immediate vicinity of
Rouen, presents a most beautiful view of this city and its
environs : indeed no traveller should quit Rouen without
visting this enchanting spot.

The principal inns are {Hotel VcUel), 85, Rite de
Carmes, iAate^B {Hotel de France), in the same sUeet;

>d by Google

Ifoi^l fie PoicHers, on ^ BonleyariUi; DeterviUe'f
(Hotel de la VUle de Paris), Rue de la Savonnerie ;
Hotel de I^ormandie, Rue du Bee, and fitotel de
V Europe, in the old Market-place. Those by whom a
little additional expense is not regarded^ will probably
resort to Trimolet's ( Grafted Hotel), Rue de VEcureuiL

Provisions are cheap^ as may be inferred from the
following prices. Flour Is generally 2jd. per lb.; beef,
mottoD, veal, and lamb, 5d. to 5^d. per lb.; eggs 5 for
2d. I vegetables from ^ to J the London price; best fresh
bat^f Ud. per pound.; best s^lad oil. Is. 6d. per pint;
milk 2d. perquart; bread, best quality, 2|d. per lb.; and
Martinique coffee, 2$. 3d. per pound.

From Rouen the tourist may proceed to Paris by
land or water. Should he have abundance of leisure,
he may epibark on the Seine, and continue bis route by a
packet, or howe-boat. The romantic scenery of the
river, although far inferior to that of the Herefordshire
Wye, will cofnpensate for the delay, if he can be con-
tent to travel at the slow rate of thirty miles per diem.
The boat will stop |n the evening at some pleasing vil-
lage, where he will meet with pomfortable,but not luxu-
rious accomnaodation.

Diligences set out from L^ BouTgeoise, Rue Thouret>
as well as frpm other offices, two or three times a day, for
Paris, Dieppe, and other places. The journey to Paris
occupies 12 or 13 hours.

The road from Rouen to ParU lies through the suburb
of Epaulet, and the traveller passes the promenade called
Cours de la Reine — Cours du Dapphin — hill of St.
Michael — bill and village of Bon-Secours — Anfreville— -
Gravettes — St. Crespin, beyond which the road |ies un-
derneath some lofty crags, and presents one of the most
delightful prospects which France affords. The Seine is
winding through the valley beneath in numerous beauti-
ful meanderings, now contracting itself to the dimen-
sions of an ipferior river, and then suddenly expanded to
an immense lake, studded with little islands. — ^Th^ tra-
veller then reaches Port St. Ouen, beyond which is
another interesting prospect — Antieux — Igoville — crosses
the Seine— to V^udreuil— crosses the forest of Pont de

Digitized by VjOOQ It

66 FROM DIEPPE TO PARIS.

I'Arche — ^Incarville, ' near which is the little town of
Louviers.

LOUVJERS is built on a small but fertile plain, wa-
tered by the river Eure. ' Its principal manufactory is of
cloth. For this it is celebrated in every part of France,
and great quantities are sent from Louviers to' Spain.
It has also cotton factories, and bleaching and tan yards,
as well as a theatre, a singularly rich church, and pro-
menades. The best inns are le Mouton, le Grand Cerf,
and la Ville de Rouen.

' The diligence goes through Louviers, but the traveller
who is posting may go direct from Port St. Ouen to
Gaillon. The distance is much the same.

On leaving Louviers, the traveller pauses to contem-
plate a prospect of no inconsiderable interest, especially
as he will soon find that the face of the country is chang-
ing, and the usuaf scenery of France succeeds to the pic-
turesque views of Normandy — ^The road then passes by
Heubdouville — crosses a lofty bridge — Vieux Villers—
Clef le Ville — to the post town of Gaillon.-

GAILLON is situated in the department of Eure, and
is rendered conspicuous by containing the splendid cha-
teau attached to the see of Rouen. It is 11 miles N. E.
of Evreux, and 22 S. S. E. of Rouen.

Villages almost innumerable now succeed on the right
and left, and more or less visible, with one or two, but
not very interesting, views of the Seine. The road then
passes through Clos-Adam — ^Goulet — Maitreville — Clos-
Ardent — Macatre, with a better prospect of the Seine^
to which succeeds the town of

VERNON, containing 5,000 inhabitants, with a manu-
factory of velvet, and a celebrated mineral spring. It
was the favourite resort of the English before the Revo-
lution, and is delightfully situated.

Beyond Vernon, and having passed some rocks with a
view of the Seine, is Petit- Val, between which andGrand-
Val is a finer prospect. On the other side of Grand- Val
is a yet superior landscape. The Seine is the principal
object, with the island formed by its confluence with the
Epte.

The road then parses through Villez— Jen fosse — ^Bon-

Digitized by Google

ST. GERMAIN EN LAYE. 67

oieres— -emineDce commanding a fine prospect — ^loftj
rock, with caves curiously dug in its side — RoUeboise—
Rosny, remarkable as the birth-place of Sully, and the
residence of' the. duchess of Berry, who. has erected a
chapel in memory of her husband there — ^to Mantes.

MANTES' was the burial-place of John; King of
France, who founded a chapter there, and here Philip
Augustus died in 1223. The bridge over the Seine, al-
though elliptic, is 120 feet wide, and consists of 39 arches.
The wines from the vineyard of the late Celestins, situ-
ated without the town, were accounted excellent. It is
31 miles N. W. of Paris. The principal church is a
noble Gothic building, but has suffered much from
time.

The best inns are Le Grand Cerf, and Le Cheval
Blanc.

Beyond Mantes the traveller crosses the Seine — Limay
^vineyards — Isson — Juziers — following the course of the
Seine as far as Mezy — to

MEULAN, a small town containing 2,300 inhabitants.
It is noted tor its quarries, tanneries, and stocking manu-
factories, and has a royal chateau.

Leaving Meulan, the road again winds' along the banks
of the Seine, ^nd conducts to Vaux — ^Triel, to

POISSY, a town on the Seine, celebrated for the as-
sembly held here in 1561. A large market for sheep,
oxen, and calves, is held here every Saturday. At the
end of the town is the bridge of Poissy, remarkable for
its length and commanding prospect. The church is a
curious edifice with two steeples.

The traveller then ascends a hill and crosses a forest to
St. GERMAIN EN LAYE. See Environs.

Thence the road to Paris is a broad paved way, with
rows of noble elms on each side. The traveller first
passes to Filancourt — Marly, see Environs— -Nanterre,
see Environs — L'Etoile — crosses the Seine over a mag-
nificent bridge — Neuilly, see Environs — crosses the plain
of Sablons— -enters Paris by the Champs Elys^es.

>d by Google

pnr-^^j!^ 79 ?ARi«.

j^PTHER KQAD FROM ROUEN TO PARIS.

ro9ts.

Miles.

\ i|

. 1

183

1931

203}

214}

Fosti. Mii4$.
Bordeau de Vignv 11 2221
Pontoise . " '^^

Franconville .
St. Denis
ParU .

242

London to Ronen
La Forge Feret
Bour^'Baudouin
Econis . .
Les TluUiers .
Magny .

- Thif, it will be perceived^ is a shorter but not so in-
teresting a route as the preceding, as it avoids St. Ger-
main en Laye, and much pleasing scenery.

From LONDON to PARIS, by MARGATE and
OSTEND.

Mies.

mies.

Dcptford .

Chatham . . .

. 30

BUckbeath

Sittingbonrn .

39i

Shooter's Hi

U !

Canterbury

• . 55X

Dartford .

Upstreet . ,

6I4

Northfleet

fit

Sarr

Oravesend

Margato .

. 72

Ropl»^ter

cRoa

S OVER TO OSTEND.

Port*.

MUes.

tU. Mile*.

To Ostend

143

Roye . . . ]

L . 272

Thourottt

■ :i

160*

Concby-les-Pots . IJ . 280J

Menin .

179

CnviUy . . ]

285#

LUle .

. 2

190

Ooomay

I . 29l{

Garvin

• ^i

. 203

Boi^-de-Lihus . 1

i 298}

Lens .

• A

. 211

Pont-St-Maxence 1

1 . 307

Arras .

. . 2

. 222

Senlis . . 1

} . 815V
. 820|

Enrilliers

. 8

233

LaChapelle . ]

SaUl7

. 2

. 244

Louvres . . ]

h . 329

Peronne
March^-le-P

ot '. 1*

. 252
. 261

Boarget . . ]
Paris . . . ]

1 : m

Fonchei

. . 1

266i

The approach to OSTEND has nothing beautiful or
grand to recommend it. The Flemish coast stretches
along the horizon, in one low, scarcely unbroken flat-
ness. The first object visible is the light-house ; after-
wajds a few houses peep above the fortifications^ and

>d by Google

DESCRIPTION OV 08TEND. 69

the tourist shortly enters the harbour. ' As soon as he
lands, he must go to an office on the quay, to have hit
passport signed, and afterwards to the Custom-house
Bear it, where his luggage will be examined, but do
charge is made for either of these forms.

Although the trade of Ostend is considerable, the
harbour is not free from danger, and can only be entered
by ships of considerable burden at nearly high water
The town has nothing grand in its appearance to re
commend it; yet the general construction of the houses,
and the dress of the inhabitants, are not unpleasing to
the English traveller, for they bear much resemblance
to what he has been accustomed to see in his native
country.

Ostend is situated among numerous canals, the sluices
of which, and particularly one called the Slykens, are
worth attention. It endured a remarkable siege of three
years and three months, against the Spaniards, from
1601 to 1604. Fifty thousand of the garrison and in-
habitants perished by disease or the sword ; and eighty
thousand of the besiegers. It at length capitulated on
honourable terms. In 1798, the English landed, and
destroyed the works of the Bruges canal, but the wind
shifting before they could re-embark, they were com-
pelled to surrender to the French.

The town-hall, though low, is very handsome. Most
of the houses are likewise built very low, on account
of the high winds that often blow from the sea: this
gives to Ostend a somewhat mean appearance. The
churches present nothing to arrest the traveller's at-
tention, unless he pauses to view the grotesque yet
horrible representation of purgatory on the outside of
one of them. He should, however, notice the West
Gate of the town, erected in 1819, and the fortifications,
which have been rendered very strong. The post-office
is at the Quai de FEmpereur.

The soil affords no fresh water, and the inhabitants
are obliged to procure it from Bruges. Provisions are
cheap, and vegetables plentiful.

The principal inns are the Great St. Michael, the
Waterloo, the Albion, the Golden Uop, the Imperw

Digitized by Google

CouTt, the London, and tbe Bellevue. Theie is an
Engliih house, called the Rose, or Hotel d'Angle-;
terre, where the traveller will meet with comfortable
accommodation at a moderate rate. THe Great and the
Little are the most frequented coffee-houses.

The fare in the diligence to Paris is 88 fr. 50 cents.

MENIN, a town of the Netherlands, has been the
scene of much military contention, and was last taken by
the French in 1794. It is situated on the Lys; is 8
miles 8. E. of Ypres, and 10 miles N. of Lille.

Menin contains about six thousand inhabitants, and is
celebrated for its beer, cloth, and table linen. Near
Menin, is the beautiful village of Isengheim. The prin-
cipal inns are, tbe Chasseur Rouge, and Le Faucon.

LILLE, a very strong city of France, and famous for
its commerce, is computed to contain 65,000 inhabi-
tants, and is guarded by what is esteemed the finest
citadel in Europe, with the exception only of that of
Turin. The streets and squares are adorned with very
noble buildings;- among which are tbe Exchange, a
Magazine of great extent, a Theatre, and a General
Hospital. The traveller may likewise notice the Li-
brary and Museum, tbe Esplanade, which is a fashion-*
able proraenfide, and the Botanic Garden. Lille was
taken by the allies after a siege of three months in 1708,
but was restored by the treaty of Utrecht, in 1718. In
1799 it was severely bombarded by the Austrians. It is
seated on the Deule, and is 130 miles N. of Paris.

The Hotel de Gand is excellent and reasonable. Le
Lion d'Or, T Hotel de Bourbon, la Cloche, PHotel
de Flaifdres, T Hotel de Portugal, THotel de TEurope,
are likewise good inns.

Lille is surrounded by more than two hundred wind-
mills, which give it a singular appearance. The prin-
cipal manufactures are expressed oils, soap, leather,
thread, woollen and cotton cloths, ^nd lace.

Diligences leave Lille every day for Paris, Brussels,
Antwerp, Calais, Maestricht, Aix-la-Cbapelle, and various
other places, so that the traveller will Imve no difficulty
ia pursuing his journey, to whatever part of the Continent
hB m^y be going.

Digitized by Google

PKKONM. 71

ARRAS, ea|>itel of the dttpiMmeiit bfPas deCakOa,
it a well-fortified town, and an episcopal lee. It is
divided into the ancient and modem town* The great
aqoa^ei which it surrounded by piakzas, boasts of some
very splendid edifices. It is built on arches^ in the
Spanish style of architecturei

The citadel would be the most beautiful ih the Nether-
lands, were it a little higher^

Arras possesses a superb library, containing an in*
teresting collection of vaseS) inscriptions, and other
Testiges of antiquity, found in the province of Artois,
a cathedral^ a theatre^ and promenades.

The principal manufactures are lace, woeUen cloth,
stockings, leather, and refined sugar. The number of
the inhabitants is SO,O0O. The walk on the glacis &nd
rampart is very fine.

The principal inns are the Little St. P&ul, the Hotel
of Europe, the London Hotel, and the Griffin. The
best bofiee-hoiises are the Commercial, the £uro|)^an,
and the Comedian»

Betweeii ErvUlers and Sailly, and on the ridge of the
chain of hills which runs through that part of the coua^
try, is the little town of Bapaume. It eontiins 8500
inhabitants, and is supported by the manufacture of
catnbric, iinen> and gauzd.

This part of the road dffbrds many extensive^ and
not unpleasing, views of the surrounding country. Be-
tween Sailly and Peronne, near Mdnt*6aint-Qnentiti, is
a prospect peculiarly fine.

PBRONNE is a well-fortified town in the department
of Somme, denominated also La Pvtelle, in conse-
quence of its never having been taken, though very
fiequetitly besieged, lii the shoh eahit>aign of 1814.
however, it forfeited its claim to this honourable title.
It was garrisoned, after the fdtal battle of Waterloo,
by some battalions of the national guard. When the
British army advanced towards Paris, an officer of the
Engineers was despatched to summon the garrison of
Peronne. By strange and most culpable niegleet, he ^as
admitted into the fortress without being previously
bhndlblded j and tnaking the best uie of the unexpwjied

Digitized by Google

72 OSTBND TO PARIS.

advantage which was afforded him, he discovered that
one of the outworks presented some weak points;. and
on his return proposed to attempt it by escalade. The
proposal was adopted. He headed the scaling party,
and the virgin fortress was soon carried.

The castle was the prison of Charles the Simple^ who
there ended his days in a wretched manner. The Duke
of Burgundy detained Louis XI. for three days within
the walls of this fortress^ until he consented to ratify a
disadvantageous treaty. It stands on the Somme, and
is 80 miles E. by N. of Paris. Its chief manufactures
are cambrics, linen, and paper, and it contains 3800
inhabitants.

The principal inn is that of St. Martin. •

Between Peronne and Marche, near Villiers-Carbon-
nel> is an extensive prospect.

ROYE contains SOOO inhabitants, and has some ex>
tensive manufactories of stockings and cotton.

About half-way between Gournay and Bois-de-Lihus,
a noble view presents itself of the country through
which the traveller has passed. Arsonval and the wood
of Monchy are seen on the left, the hill of Ganelon
and the forest of Compeigne further off, and the town
of Gourlay behind.

A little before he arrives at Bois-de-Libus, another
andscape, not inferior to the former, anests the travel-
er's attention.

Between Bois-de-Lihus and Pont-St.-Maxence, a little
beyond Blincourt, is another pleasing view of the surr
rounding country, and near the thirtieth milestone, the
road lies by a beautiful piece of water, with an island
in the centre.

PONT-St.-MAXENCE contains 3000 inhabitants,
whose principal trade is in grain, combs, (of which
there is a large manufactory,) and leather. The bridge
over the Oise is very fine. Part of it was destroyed in
the hasty retreat of the French before the allies, in
1815.

SENLIS has suffered yet more than Pont-St.-Maxence.
A sanguinary engagement took place in the neighbour-
hood, between Marshal Blucher and Generals Grouchy

Digitized by Google

OONNS88S. 7S

atkd Vaiulamme^who were basteniog to cover the French
capital.

^enlis b built on the banks of the Vouette, and is
nearly surrounded by forests. It is a bishop's see, and
contains 4000 inhabitants. The cathedral is a magnifi-
cent structure, and the steeple one of the highest in
Fiance. It has considerable trade in grain, wine, wood,
and beautiful porcelain ; and has manufactories of cot-
ton, coarse cloth, paper, lace, and buttons. Its bleaching
grounds are extensive, and its quarries afford excellent
•tone.

At the twenty -first milestone, before the traveller en*
ters on the forest of Pontaime, he has a noble view of
Senlis behind him.

LOUVRES is a neat town, principally supported by
the manufacture of lace. A little beyond the eleventh
milestone is a beautiful prospect. The. ninth stone being
passed, Thillay is on the right, and Oonnesse a little
beyond it.

GONNESSE carries on considerable trade in grain
and flour, and has some large manu&ctories of soap.
The bread which is made here is most excellent, and
supplies great part of Paris. Gonnesse was the birth-
place of Philip Augustus, of the third dynasty of the
kings of France.

A little further on, and before the traveller arrives at
the eighth milestone, he passes Amouville. See En-
virons.

^ Beyond Bourget the road lies near Rincy. Seer En-
virons.

The forest of Bondy is likewise skirted, of which
the most tragical tales are eagerly related by every
peasant.

The villages which now occur will be described in
another part of our work. Having passed Noisy, Ro-
mainville, and Pantin, on the left, the traveller reaches
the village of La Villette. The numerous windmills of
Montmartre are seen on the right, and the hamlet of
La Chapelle. Pr6s-Saint-Gervais is on the left, with its
little hills prettily covered with vineyards and orchards.
Moatfoucon is on the yight, and the risiPS growds an4
H

Digitized by Google

HAVRI VO PARtS.

qottrriesof Belleville; leaving which, the tim^eUer ea*
ters Paris by the suburb and gate of St. Martin.

FROM LONDON to PARIS by DOVER, CALAIS,
AND OSTEND.

i to DtDTer,
fts at p. 90,

Calais .
Gravelines .
Dvnkirk .

71
97

!|::U2|

Fames . . 2|
Ghistel . . ^
Ostend . . 1

Paris, as at p. 68 36}

From LONDON to PARIS by RYE and
BOULOGNE.

Lewisham .... 6^ lAmberibant ... 40

FaniboTOuirli' . . . U Flimwell . . • . . 4U

Madam's Court Hill . . 19} Beckley .... 67

Seven Oaks ... 23} Rye 6S

Tanbridge . . . . 90 |

From Boulogne to Paris, see the routes by Calais to
Paris.

From LONDON to PARIS by PORTSMOUTH ano
HAVRE.

MUm.

Vanxhall .

. U

Kingston .

. Ill

Esher

. 15}

oiiiSbrd ; ; ,

. 23*
. 29

Oodalming

. 83i

Havre
LaBotte

Liphook
Petersfield .
Homitaa .
Portsdown
Portsmouth

CROSS FROM PORTSMOUTH TO HAVRE.
PflMk MilM. P«i

185
196

Bolbee . U . . 803^

▲liqaenrille . l{ . . 210|

Yvetot
Barentin

ItottMl

45f

MtlM.

«174
S4^

From Rouen to Paris, $99 the route fimn Dieppe to
that city.

HAVRE-DE-GRACE is situated at the mouth of the
Seme^Mia «w«i in origin ta Unit XIi.> who laid Um

>d by Google

HATIiB. 7i

femidatioiM of the town ib \W9, FranciB I. fortiied it,
tod Cardinal Richelieo built a citadel at hif own ex-
pense. The safety of the harbour, its proximity to the
capital, and the ease with which it comraanicatet with
lo many departments by means of the Seine and nume-
roQs canals, render it one of the most flourishing sea-
ports in the kingdom. Few harbours are so easily acces-
sible. Vessels can enter it with almost erery wind, and
the tide does not begin to ebb until nearly three hour*
after high water. The harbour is capable of contaiaii^
more than 100 men^-war of the largest size. The
late emperor contemplated the most gigantic improve-
ments. He purposed to have constructed a basin, which
should have held 960 ships of war, and of which 560
could float at one time.

The citadel and arsenal are noble buildings, and on a
high perpendicular cliff to the east are two lofty light*
houses. The walk to them is very pleasing. The tour-
ist may likewise visit the library, Ingouville, and the
theatre. The town has nothing prepossessing in its ap-
pearance ; on the contrary, the wood-woik in front of
most of the houses is both uncouth and mean ; but the
vi^ws from the ramparts and the citadel will be much
admired. Havre was bombarded in 169 4^ and again in
1759. ' It lias manufactories of tobaccq, vitriol, starch,
rope, paper, and lace ; and contains 16,000 ir>habitants.

Xhe principal inns are the BienVenu, I'Hotel d'An-
gkterre (a'very good house), the Hotet de ' S. Fran<jois,
TAigle d'Or, La Ville d'Havre, and l^Hotel de la Paix.

Diligences start every morning for Rouen, for which
place, and noiartber, the traveller should engage a seat,
unless he is anxious to arrive at Paris, and cannot spare
one day for the' antiquities and beauties of Rouen-
Those who prefer it may go to Paris by the, passage-
boats which navigate the Seine. A steam-packet plies
constantly between Havre and Rouen.

As he quits Havre on his road to La Botte, he will
not fail to admire the noble avenue! through which he
passesy and the beauties that every step presents, until
he reaches the village of Jagonville. To this succeeds
Gntvitte, a Tilla^ most sin^nlarly built, for u is said

Digitized by Google

HELVOET8LUT8 TO PARIS.

that the Principal street is^ with some intervals, more
than 5 miles in length. Beyond this is Uarfleur, now an
inconsiderable place, but not uncelebrated in the history
of France. At a little distance from Harfleur is another
prospect which rivals those in the immediate vicinity of
Havre.

BOLBEC is a small town on the right bank of the
river of the same name. Its serges, of the most beau-
tiful colours and patterns^ are in request in every part
of France. It contains 5000 inhabitants, and has a
tolerable inn. The traveller is presented with another
interesting prospect on quitting Bolbec.

YVETOT, with 10,000 inhabitants, has many manu-
factories of cloths, tickings, velvets, cottons, and hats.

A little before the traveller reaches the village of
Barentin, which has % manufactory of velvet, . linen,
and paper, he will take notice of a lovely landscape
near St. Andr6. Between Barentin and Rouen the road
is thickly set with villages and chateaux, and the ap«
proach to the capital of Normandy is peculiarly fine.

From LONDON to PARIS, through HELVOET-
SLUYS, ANTWERP, and BRUSSELS.

AlUes.

Witham .
Kelvedon
Colchester
MisUey Thorn
Harwich . .

CROSS OVER TO HELVOETSLUYS.

Poefs. MUes.

Stratford le Bow .

Ilford

Romford .

Brentwood ,

. 18

Ingatestone

• S3

Chelmsford

. 29

HeWoetsluTs
Brill . , . ij
Rotterdam • 2*

Stryensaas . . 3|
Moerdyk . , l|
Cmj^taerte . 2
Coin d' Argent . 3^
Anvers, or Antwerp 3|
Malines, or Mechlin 2|
Vilvorde . . li
Bruxelles, or Brus-
sels . . li

305|

Hal . ;
LaGenette .
Soignies .
Mons .
Bonssn
Quievrain .
Valenciennes
Bouchain .
Cambray .
Bonavy
Fins .
Peronne

^or a continuation pf the route to ParJ^, see page 6S.

>d by Google

If th« tntveller do^ts not wish to visit He1iro«Miiyt^
b« may tery i^lTaiitageoiifly abridge this route by goin^
m the «team*packet from London direct to Rotterdam*
By this mode he will iave confeiderable time and tronble*

For a Tery minute description of this roots, I be^
leave to refer the reader toMr. BoyceU <' Belgian Tra-»
veller/' aeompagnon (is voya^, without which no per-
son should visit the Netherlands^ and in which he will
possess a cjomplete guide to every thing that can intesest
the merchant, tlie natumlist, or the tooriM of pleasure.

HELVOET8LUYS is a neat towb on the banks of
the Sluice, from which it derires its name. The har*
bour will contain the whole navy of Holland. A
crowd of porters will surround the trareller the moment
he sets foot on the quay, as at Calais and Dieppe, eagerly
sontendtng which shall carry his^ luggage ; but he will
recollect that they differ much from the French porters,
and cannot be trusted one moment Out of his sight. It
is rarely that the French porter will either make an ei-
travagant charge, or purloin the smallest article; but
the Dutchman, etcept a baigain be made beforehand,
will insist on the most exorbitant recompense for his
trcHible, and will possibly find some opportunity of for^
ther repaying himself at the stranger's expense.

The best inn at Helvoetsluys^ for an Englishman, is
Hobson*s. The usual conveyance to Brill is by the
coach.

BRILL if the capital of the island of Voom, and is
situated at the mouth of the Meuse. The traveller should
here take a boat for Rotteidam. They sail every tide,
and reach Rotterdam in three hours.

As he poceeds up the river he passes the little town
of Flaarding on his left, celebrated for the grotesque ha*
biliments or the inhabitams. Next is Schiedam, famous
for its distilleries of geneva ; and to this succeeds Delft*
haven, employed solely in the herring fishery. Nothing
can be more delightful than this excursion.

ROTTERDAM is the second city in HoUand, and
contains 58,000 inhabitants. The peculiar style of Dutch
buiUing is more than usually prevalent here. The houses
Itfe very lofty, and, projecting forwaid as thev ascend, ac*

7a H^VOKTSliVYS TO PAWS.

frequently two or three yttids out of the perpendicular.
The gable-end is towards the street, and moat ludicrously
painted with different colours. The canals running
through every street constitute another peculiarity of the
Dutch towns. The canals of Rotterdam will permit ships
of the greatest burden to penetrate into the heart of the
city, and unload at the very doors of the warehouses.

The Town-house; the Bank; the Arsenal; the Cathe-
dral, containing the monuments of De Witt, Brakel, and
Cortenmaar ; the statue of Erasmus, and the house in
which he was bom ; the Gemeeland House, the residence
of Buonaparte in 1811, and afterwards of the Emperor
Alexander; and the Exchange, will be the principal ob-
jects of the traveller's curiosity. The suburbs are plea-
sant, and tilled with the country-houses of the merchants.
The principal inns are the Boar's Head, the Marshal
Turenne, and the Court of Berlin.

The traveller may proceed to Brussels by post-chaise,
diligence, or trekschuU ( passage-boat) « . Mr. Boyce gives
a very curious description of the last two.

A diligence starts for Antwerp every day, and trek-
echuits almost every hour. The latter afToid the cheap-
est and the most pleasing mode of conveyance; the
former is more expeditious.

ANTWERP is a large and ancient city, bearing evi-
dent traces of former magnificence. It was once the
chief mart of Flemish commerce, and contained 200/)00
inhabitants. It now scarcely numbers 50,000 ; it has,
however, rapidly increased in population and wealth
since the free navigation of the Scheldt has been es-
tablished.

The Cathedral is an exquisite specimen of light Gothic
architecture; and is enriched with several of Rubens'
finest productions, as well aa other curiosities. The
spire is 460 feet high, and the beautiful carving of its
pinnacles has sustained without injury the ravages of
nearly eight centuries.

The traveller should also visit the Museum, contain-
ing a splendid collection of paintings, and Rubens' chair;
the citadel, supposed to be one of the strongest fortresses
in Holland ; the phurch of $t. ^ames^ in which 19 the

Digitized by Google

ANTWBR? — HBOHLIK*. 79

tomb of Rubens ; the church of St. Paul, or the DonuDi-
caus, adorned with numerous paintiqgs, and a iin^lar
representation of Mount Calvary; the church of St.Charles
Borromeo, or of the Jesuits, distinguished by a splendid
front ; the churches of St. Augustine, St. Andrew, and St.
Anthony, likewise enriched with paintings; the Docks,
which were much improved by Napoleon; the house in
.which Rubens lived, in the street which bears his name ;
and the Town-house, containing the public library.
Many of the streets are spacious, particularly the Place de
Mer, in which is the Royal Pakce, and the Exchange,
from which the old Exchange of London was modelled.

Antwerp likewise possesses a Theatre, a Botanical Gar-
den, an Atheneum, and an Academy of Fine Arts. The
collection of paintings of M. Van Lancker is also well
entitled to notice.

The best inns are the Grand Laboureur, Hotel d' An-
gleterre. Hotel St. Antoine, L'Ours, La Cour de Bra-
bant, La Couronne, and Le Petit Paris. Diligences leave
Antwerp two or three times a day for Brussels, Amster-
dam, and other parts of the Netherlands.
' From Antwerp to Mechlin, the villages present them-
selves in almost uninterrupted succession. There is no
point of the road from which some village spire may not
be seen. The scenery, likewise, although flat, is not
nnpleasing; and the country is in the highest state of
cultivation.

MECHLIN, or MALINES, is a large town on the
Dyle, containing 17,000 inhabitants. It has long been
celebrated for its lace ; but the greater part of what is
called the Mechlin lace is manufactured elsewhere. The
cathedral of Mechlin is an enormous pile, and impres-
sive principally from its extraordinary dimensions. The
tower is an unwieldy structure of vast diameter, and, al-
though unfinished, S50 feet high. It is visible to an im-
mense distance in every direction* The churches of St*
John and Notre Dame, contain pictures of Rubens, and
near the Antwerp Gate is a convent of Beguins.

The principal inns are La Cour Imperialc, La Grue,
La Coope, La Cour de Fiance, Le Lion d'Or, and St.
Jacqueft.

Digitized by Google

9a HHLTOlWttyM to PAlktS.

The ir6ad from Mechlin to Brosseli is almost fl«t>aiid
intersected by innumerable cknals.

VILVORD£ contains many handsome convents and
monasteries. Here Tindal, who first translated the New
Testament into English, suffered martynlom.

Should the traveller not have engaged his place in the
diligence to Brussels, he will find it more pleasant to
proceed thither in a trekichuit on the canal. The banka
of the canal, during the whole distance, are almost com-
pletely covered by gardens and pleasure-grounds, inter-
spersed with hotels, manufactories, and mills. Near
Brussels, the river and canal flow through a gentle vaU
ley, the numerous chateaux on the sides of which have
an uncommonly pleasing appearance.

The magnificent palace of 8c honenberg is here seen to
much advantage. Approaching yet nearer to the city,
the traveller passes the All^e Verte, the favourite pro-
menade of the inhabitants of Brussels. It is an avenue
of two miles in len^^th, shaded by lofty trees, and com-
manding many pleasmg views of the city, the canal, the
river, and the innumerable chateaux on their banks. He
then enters Brussels by the Porte de Laeken, a very hand-
some triumphal arch, recently erected.

BRUSSELS may now be termed the capital of the
kingdom of the United Netherlands. It is built oo the
side of a hill, the lower part of which is called the Old
Town, while the upper part is occupied by the more
fashionable inhabitants. The streets are spacious and
airy, and the houses are lofty and well-built.

The Town-hall is a beautiful Gothic edifice, and has
been much admired. The tower, which is strangely
placed at a considerable distance from the centre, is 884
feet high> and is surmounted by a gigantic statue of St.
Michael, which serves as a weathercock. The town,
hall occupies one side of a square, composed of anti-
quated buildings of a most singular appeamnoe. Tb«y
are dissimilar in their structure, and dissimilar in their
style of architecture, yet they form a pleasing whole.
The principal market is held here.
. The park is an immense square of splendid buiUings,
^od is certainly equal to any thing of the kind in Europe*

Digitized by Google

BRUSSBLff. 81:

The centre is occupied by a beaotifiil garden^ ornamented
by lawns, fountains, and statues. In one part of it is a
basin, on the brink of which Peter the Great sat down
to drink a bottle of wine. -

The other objects in Brussels calculated to attract the
visiter's attention are, the Cathedral, containing a very
curious pulpit, and some fine specimens of painted glass;
Notre Dame de la Chapelle, enriched with fine pictures,
and exquisitely carved pulpit; the VieilleCour, or Orange
Palace, comprising a Library, a Museum of Natural His
tory, a choice Gallery of Pictures, and a Botanic Garden ;
the Palace of the States-General, a handsome modem
building, in which are the Chambers of Peers and De-
puties ; the Palace of Justice, adorned with a noble por-
tico ; the Place Royale, a spacious square, on one side
of which is the church of Kaudenberg ; the Theatre in
-the Place de la Monnaie, erected in 1821 ; the church
of the Sablon, containing some early specimens of paint-
ing by Van Eyck; the Fountains of the Sablon, and the
Mannekin ; the Royal Palace on one side of the Park ;
the little Theatre in the Park; the A 1 lee Verte, already
noticed; and the Promenades round the town, which
occupy the site of the ramparts.

Brussels is the residence of numerous English families,
and in the Rue, Royale is an excellent English Library
and Reading Room, kept by Mr. Ewbank. The princi-
pal post-office is in Rue du Bord du Verre, but there are
four minor offices.

The principal Hotels are the Hotel de Belle Vue, and
Hotel de Flandres, in the Place Royale; the Hotel
d'Angleterre, Rue de la Madelaine; Hotel de Brabant,
March6 aux Charbons; Hotel de FEurope, Place
Rctyale; Hotel de Suede, Rue de I'Eveque; Hotel
"Wellington in the Park; the London Hotel, near the
Sablon; and Hotel de New York, Longue Rue Neuve.
The most frequented coffee-houses are the Grand Caf6,
Place de la Monnaie; TAmitiS, in the Place Royale;
Domino, Psyche, Suisse, and Orange, in the Place de
la Monnaie, Grand Caf6, in Rue des Eperonniers, and
Velloni, Rue Royale.

Diligences leave Brussels two or three times a day for
PArb> Antwerp, and other parts of the Continent,

Digitized by Google

84 HELYOKTBLUTS VO PARIS.

A very paitieuUr and ptoaiiog acc<MiBt oC thia eity wItt
be found in Romberg^s ** New Picture of BraateU and iu
Environa."

No Eoglisbman will pursue bii route to the French
metropolis until be has devoted one day to the field of
Waterloo. The village of Waterloo is nine miles from
Brussels. The road to it is through the forest of Soignies.
The view of Brussels, a little before the entrance of the
forest^ is deservedly admired i but, after this, nothing
but a tangled impervious forest presents itself for eight
miles, occasionally relieved by a few scattered ham-
lets. The traveller emerges from the forest at the village
of Waterloo ; where, perhaps, he will pause a moment to
read the simple tablets in the little church, the affectionate
tribute of their surviving companions, to the memory of a
few.of those who '' gloriously fell in the bat^s of Qua-
Ue-Bras and Waterloo."

More than a mile from Waterloo is the hamlet of
Mount-St.-John, where a road branchea.off to the right
towards Nivelle. The forest has here quite disappeared.
The road suddenly rises, and the traveller, by an easy as-
cent, gains a kind of ridge. This ric^e, and the ground
behind it, was occupied by the British army.

When the traveller ascends the ridge he will observe
an immense earthen mound, constructed in 1825, in com-
memoration of this celebmted victory. It is 800 feet
in height and is surmounted by the Belgian lion. From
this ridge, also, he will perceive two monuments, one to
the memory of Sir A. Gordon, and the other to some offi-
cers of the German Legicm, who fell in the battle. On
the bank on which the former is situated stood a solitary
tree, which formed the centre of the British position i and,
as the Duke of Wellington was posted on this spot dur-*
ing the greater part of the day, it was known by the name
of the Wellington Tree. Its destruction, however, was
commenced by the numerous visiters of the field, who
wished to make memorials of its branches, and finally
completed in 1831, when the whole tree was cut down.

The British lines extended along this ridge to the right
and left, defended on the left by a hedge, which reaches
from Mount-St.-John towards Ohain. On the extreme
i^ight, following the natural direction pf the fidge, the/.

jitizedbyGoOglt

WITBELOO, M

Uamed imk towasdi Bnitsek, and w^ie piotected by a
mriiie.

In fisont is a little valley, not xegularly fonned, but with
BVKieroas gentle windings and hollows. • It varies in
breadth from a quarter to half a mile. This was the scene
of the mniderous conflict. The opposite ridees^ and
vanning almost parallel to those of Mottnt-St.-Jomi, were
occupwd by the French.

A little in front of the monuments, and dose by the
load, is hm Haye Sainte, the object of the second des-
perate attack in the middle of the battle ; and near which
^le conflict took place between the Imperial guards and
the British, that decided the fate of the day.

To the right, and nearly in the centre of the valley, is
the Chateau de Goumonl (called Hougomont in the des-
patches), the reconstruction of which was not commenced
tiH 1823. On the left is the farm of Ter-La-Haye,
where the ground becoming woody and irregular, pre-
aented a strong position for the termination of the British
lines.

Pursuing the road io ChaHeroy, and on the ridge
exactly opposed to the British centte, is La B^le Alli-
ance. It was the position of Boonaparte daring the
greater part of the engagement, until he advanced to a
kind of sand-bank, when he headed the last charge ; and
it was the spot <m which Wellington and Blucher met
after Uie battle was decided.

With these hints the traveller will immediately lecog^
iiiae the most interesting situatioas of the fiekl. A de<
tailed account of the sanguinary conflict would be foreign
to the object of this work.

'The most accurate and intelltgiUe accounts af the
battle will be found in " Paul's Letters to his Kinsfolk,"
ami in the second v<^me of ** Boyoe's Second Usurpa-
tion of Buonaparte." To the accuracy of this last writer
in his computation of the numbers of the opposing
armies, so different from what are usoafly assigned, Buo-
naparte himself gave his voluntary testimony to Dr.
WiAfden,

The road from Brussels to Hal, and indeed from Bras-
»ak t» tha Ff each frontier^ is estreittely baanti»». It w

Digitized by Google

84 HBLVOETSLUTS TO PARIS.

Taried by a succession of hills and valleys^ which form s
pleasing contrast with the marshy flats of Holland, and
the open country of France. The cottages which present
themselves at every turning of the road are clean and
substantial, and whitewashed every year. The soil is in
the highest state of cultivation, and not an inch is lost.
The valleys and slopes are covered with flocks, and the
summits of the hills are uniformly clothed with woods.

MONS is situated in a low swampy plain, yet it forms
a pleasing object as the traveller descends the hiU through
the wood, to approach it.

The castle, the arsenal, the town-hall, and the church,
merit the traveller's attention. The latter is said to oc-
cupy the site of a castle built by Julius Caesar.

The chief manufactures are woollen stuffs, linen, lace,
and earthenware; and it contains 25,000 inhabitants.
The best inns are L' Hotel d'Autriche, Le Grand Cerf,
and Le Cheval.

Three miles from Mons, on the road to Boussa, is
Jemappe, celebrated for the victory of Dumourier over
the Austrians. The remains of some of the Austrian
redoubts are yet visible.

The features of the country are now essentially changed.
Scarcely a rising ground occurs for many miles. Yet the
landscape is not unpleasing. The cottages and villages
succeed each other almost without interruption; and
the habitations of the peasantry are clean and comfortable.
Now and then extensive meadows are seen, which might
better deserve the name of marshes ; yet the land usu^ly
appears most highly cultivated, and is plentifully covered
with wood.

At a small distance from VALENCIENNES, the spires
are seen rising above the houses, and not one appear-
ance of fortification can be discerned ; but, on a nearer
approach, the high walls, the deep ditches, and the
massive gates, convey an idea of almost impregnable
strength. The siege which it underwent at the com*
mencement of the revolutionary war will not soon be
forgotten. The place at which the English forced their
entrance is shown to the traveller, and the impressions
of the balls we not yet efffwed. The citadel wa? codt

Digitized by Google

BOUOHAIN — CAMBRAT* 85

stfttCted by the celebrated Vaaban. The town is large
and populous. It contains 18,000 inhabitants, but the
streets are narrow and crooked. The great square, how-
ever, is very handsome ; and the Hospital, Hotel de Ville,
and Theatre, are worthy of notice.

It was the birth-place of the historian Froissard, and
the painter Wateau ; and is said to be indebted for its
origin to the Emperor Valentinian I., in the year 867.
To people it, he resorted to the measures which Romu-
lus had employed, and offered an asylum to all who fled
from their creditors, or the vengeance of the law.

The Christian is the best inn, and Madame Gonion's
the most frequented coffee-house. The other inns are
Le Grand Canard, la Biche, Ic Cigne, and la Cour de
France.

BOUCHAIN is a pretty and well-fortified town, and
was built by Pepin the Short, in commemoration of a
victory which he gained in the neighbourhood over
Thierry, king of the Goths.

CAMBRAY is a handsome town, containing- 15,000
inhabitants. The streets are well-built ,* and the great
square is much admired. It was formerly celebrated
for its magnificent cathedral, which was supposed to be
the finest in France. A few ruins alone have escaped the
ravages of the early period of the Revolution : these,
however, indicate that the edifice was constructed in the
most perfect style of architecture. The new cathedral is
Tery inferior. The town-hall is of modern architecture,
and well-built. The sun-dial is remarkable. The cita-
del, placed on an eminence, is very magnificent. Cam-
bray was the residence of the immortal Fenelon,to whose
memory a monument was erected here in 1824.

Soon after passing Cambray, the appearance of the
country is again changed. ,To a thickly-wooded soil,
most highly cultivated, with many a village-spire rising
above the tufts of trees in every direction, succeed the
straight roads, the clipped elms, and the boundless plains
of France, often presenting but few human habitations
foT many miles* The traveller is frequently surprised at
the appearance oT depopulation wliich prevails in many
paiUolFnuice^ and perhaps hastily concludes that hec

Digitized by Google

M DOTY M auiftiA«B% n>m8S8, &c.

peasantrf htive been almott desbofed by the wars of Uid
RevolatioD. Had he, however, traversed her proTiocea
in her happier days, he would have witnessed the sanne
character of desolation.

It is to be accounted for in the following manner : — la
Prance, the farmers and the peasants do not, as in Eng-
land and in the Netherlands, live in detached cottages or
houses on the g^unds which they occupy, but are con-
- gregated in villages and towns^ sometimes three or four
mi^ from the place- of their labour. The ferpaer haa
not even the slightest shed on his farm, but l^ves his
village with his ploughs and his waggons every morning,
and journeys many miles to his daily task. In Picardy,
Artois, and Normandy, the cottages are sprinkled over
the country, but in almost every other part of Franco
the eye wanders over a boundless plain, cultivated with
the utmost care, but no trace of human habitation can be
discerned. *

DUTY ON CARRIAGES, HORSES, Ac.

Evert English carriage with four wheels, on being landed
in France, pays a duty of 10«. in the iOOi. value ; but it
is not necessary to give in the mtrintic value ; they axe
generally entered at from SOU to 150^ Besides this, the
owner will be required to deposit one- third of whatever
▼aloe he may think proper to put upon it, unless it be
too much under the real value, and in that case it would
be seized. A memorandum of the deposit will be given
him at the Custom-house, and if the carriage leavea
Fiance within two years, about three-fourths of the
money will be returned to him. At the close, however,
of the first year, he must send a notice to the Custom-
house, where the deposit was made, that his carriage is
still in France, or he will perhaps have some difficulty in
obtaining his deposit. If the carriage remain more than
two years, the whole sum is foiieited. if the traveller
leaveif France by a different route, he must get the me-
moraodum signed at the last Custom-house on the fron.
tier, and then send it to the Custom-house where the
depoatt mm aMide> a^d oider . the viovey :to be lemkled

Digitized by Google

^aough hU banker. He may, heweirer* Mcordr tfae de^
posit at any ether port in Fiance where he re-embark«
the carriage.

A gig> or any other two-wheeled carriage/ pays the
same duties.

On leaving England, the duty on a horse is 21, 2s,, be-
sides the lOs. in the 100/. according to its value. On
arriving in France, the duty is 15 francs for a horse^ and
5 francs for a pony.

Books, plate, linen, and household furniture, pay
\0s. in the 100/. according to the value. When landed
in France, they pay 15*. m the 100/., according to the
value.

E^ch horse exported from France pays a duty of 15
francs. Formerly the exportation of stallions and maies
from France was forbidden, but, in 1 821, a new regulation
was made, authorizing the traveller to take back hb own
borse> of whatever description it may be.

New harness and carpets are prohibited in France, but
not in Belgium.

All cutlery wares are prohibited in France, but not in
Belgium.

In Belgium the duty on carriages is one-tenth of their
value.

In Belgium the duty on horses is 8 francs.

ARRIVAL AT PARIS.

HOTELS.

If the traveller arrive by the Calais or the Dieppe
diligence, he will probably be taken to the Mes-
sagerie. Rue Notre Dame des Victoires, or Rue
Coquilli^re.

On arriving in a foreign country it is of import-
ance that the traveller should be recommended to a
comfortaWe hot«l; and I have great pleasure in

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dS BEOULATIONS 0I>

mentiojiing Meurice's City of London Hotel, Rue
St. Honorl, which is the most extensive and commo-
dious in Paris, and particularly adapted for English-
men. Some idea may be formed of the establishment
from the following regulations : —

Regulations of Meurice's City of London
Hotel, Rue St. Honore',

Placed in the office, where the travellers are requested to
leave their passport with the clerk.

To avoid gentlemen the great trouble and inconveni-
ence attending passports, 8 francs are requested for the
person who undertakes this business.

The price of the apartments is regulated by the day,
week, or month. The daily charge is diminished one-
eighth when taken by the week, and one-sixth when taken
by the month. Single rooms are charged from 2 to 8
francs per day.

A person attends every morning to take orders for
dinners, and to hear any observations which the visiters
may find it necessary to make.

Mr. Meurice also gives notice that from the month of
November until that of May, he makes arrangements
which will, he is sure, be preferred, not only for the ex- '
pense, but also ^o avoid the trouble of housekeeping;
he will also, at the same period, take whole families to
board, by the month, at a fixed price. In winter, per-
sons may be boarded by the month — a single person for
240 francs for one room, breakfast, and dinner, without
wine; and 250 francs, with half a bottle of ordinary
wine^ and fire in the cofifee-room, light, &c.

Breakfasts, in the Coffee-room, or in apartments.

francs, sous.
Tea or Coflfee, with eggs .,20
Without Eggs . . . • 1 15
With Meat . . . . 2 10

- Children under seven years of age pay half-price.

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VBUAYCS'l BOTIIn 99

JHtm0r$, in apartmenlt,

According to the bill of fare> or from 4 francs 10 fous to
12 Iranc9 per bead. .

Table iVH6te,

At 4 franci 10 sous^ without wine, at five o'clock, after
the bell has rung twice. This table is attended by ladies
and gentlemen, and the dinner consists of

1 Soup

2 Fish, when it can be had fresh

3 Entr6e, by 2 persons

4 Roast Meat, by 4, including the large pieces

5 Salad

6 (Cheese

7 Pudding or Pie

8 Dessert, 1 plate, by S persons.

The wines are furnished by the carte. The children
pay half-price. Those who do not know this table can
have no idea of the manner in which it is served, but it
cannot be expected that a private dinner at the same
price can be served in proportion.

Evening,

francs, sons.

Coffee 0 15

Tea 15

Tea or Coffee, with Bread and Butter 1 ] 0

Tea for evening parties, according to agreement made,
as well as for biscuits, cakes, or any other refreshments
which may be wished, also for the lights, &c.

Lights,

To have all the staircases in the hotel lighted, saloon
6f the table d*h8te, the breakfast room, where the news-
papers are read; good fires in all these places, in the
winter J and to pay the watchman at night; Mr. Meu-
rice charges the small tax of 5 sons a day each person
for the article of lights. The wax-candles are apart and*
are paid separately ; bvt in Dm agreement* for the winter^

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90 BEGULATiOMS Of

the persons are at liberty to furnish this article ; but in
the contrary case.

Each lamp pays . . . 20 sous.

A %vax-candle . . . 20 sous.

Wood from 4 to 8 francs a bundle.

But persons may furnish themselves, on allowing to
the hotel three francs for each load of 30 grammes of
-wood, for the cellars which are furnished. The por-
ters are paid apart.

Servanls* Hall,

Where there is a good fire all the day in winter; break-
fast, with tea or coffee, with eggs, bread, and butter.
Dinner at 3 o'clock precisely. Tea after dinner with
bread and butter, with half a bottle of wine, 4 francs ;
without wine, 3 francs 10 sous* If they like it better^
they may feed themselves in town.

The lodg^ings are 1 franc extra when they are not at-
tached to the apartment of their masters.

Servants of the Hotel.

It is from the advice of English gentlemen that they
have established 1 franc a day each person, but it is
not obligatory. Families pay less, particularly when
they pass the winter; this charge is then according to
agreement. The cleaning of boots and shoes is paid
separately, and the whole, on the most moderate terms,
are charged in the bill, that in parting there is not one
sol to pay, even the washing of carriages, the cords, and
the men who fasten the luggage.

VcUets de Place.
These are attached to the hotel, and are particularly
selected for the safety of the hotel, and the travellers who
are visiting Paris are prevented from being imposed upon.
They may be hired from 4 to 6 francs per day.

Washing, by a woman attached to the hotel, at all
hours, night and dag.

The linen is washed one league from Paris, and is not
beiUen, at is the custom at Paris ; it is brought home at

Digitized by Google

mburiob's hotel* 9 1

the hour fixed, ironed with the greatest care. Thd prices
are the same as at the first lauDdresses at Paris, and if
families are invited to give the preference to the one at*
tached to the hotel, it is to avoid the confusion and dan-
ger of having too many people employed in the house.
This invitation is not, however, obligatory.

The bill of the hotel to be paid weekly, agreeably to the
general request.

Information concerning letters, lists of the different
roads, or any other subject, may be obtained in the
office.

Post carriages, of every description, to be sold and let
for Calais, Boulogne, Dieppe, and all parts of France
and Italy. Mr. Meurice also buys carriages which are
wished to be disposed of, on the return from travelling.
He recommends confidential couriers, to accompany
families, and to give every possible information on their
travels.

It is particularly recommended to be careful of fire,
and not to injure the furniture ; as also, not to leave the
key in the door in the day time, and at night to lock the
door inside. When any thing is sent to the hotel, to
give the number of the apartment, with the name of
the person, for fear of strangers introducing themselves
into the apartments.

I recommend this hotel to Englishmen who know
but little of French, for the following reasons : the
master speaks the English language fluently, the
waiters speak English, the accommodation is com-
pletely in the English style, and the visiters are
usually from the British islands. All the rooms have
carpeta» a comfort which will be appreciated by Eng-
lish visiters. The traveller will not here feel himself
alone in a foreign land ; but,., amidst the constant
and rapid influx of new guests, will reoognise som«

Digitized by Google

98 HOflLd.

one whom he can cl&im as an aoquaintAnee, or "wiih
whom he can associate as a friend : and when the
emotions of novelty and surprise have subsided in hi«
own bosom, it will afford him an inexhaustible fiind
of amusement to witness the various and often lu-
dicrous ways in which every new comer reveals the
impression which the iirst sight of Paris has made on
his mind.

To whatever hotel the traveller ^oes, h^ will feel
himself perfectly at his ease. He will study his con-
venience and health ; nor will he be compelled to
order a single meal, or drink a single glass more than
he wishes, for the sake of the house. He is not even
obliged to eat or drink at all in the hotel at which he
lodges. He pays for his apartments, and the master
is satisfied with that pajrment. He may order his
breakfast in Jiis own room from the cafcy and his
dinner from the restaurateur; or he may breakfast
in the coffee-room, and dine at the table dhdte; or
he has the whole of Paris before him, and may
choose his own cc^S, and his own traiteur. Whether
he eats and drinks at his hotel, or elsewhere, he has
this advantage, that he knows by the bill of fare pre^
cisely what every article will cost, and may regmate
his expenses according to his means or his pleasure.

At the following hotels the traveller will find good
accommodation.

Hotel de tAmirautS, Rue Neuve St. Augustin.

Hotel de tAngleterre, Rue des Filles Si Thomasi
This is much frecjuented by English families, though
the accommodation is in the French style. Tne
greater part of the rooms have tiles instead of boards, *
and not even the vestige of a carpet.

Hotel dArtois, Rue d'Artois.

Hotel de la Belgique, Rue St. Thomas du Louvre,
No. 15.

Hot&ldeBeUevuei'Bm^i^Bi\o\i^ -

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BOTBL8« 08

Hotel BergSre^T^e Bere/^re,
Hotel de Boston, Rue vivienne. This is adaptect
to the higher classes of travellers, who can afford
to pay for magnificent furniture and splendid decora-:
tion.

Grand Hotel de Bourbon, Rue de la Paix.
. Hotel de la Grande Bretagne, Rue St, Honore.
Hotel de Breteuil, Rue de Rivoli.
Hotel de Bristol, Place Vendotoe.
Hotel Britannique, Rue Duphot, Faubourg de la
Madelaine. This is an excellent house, the master
and mistress of which botii speak Enghsh.

Grand Hotel Britannique, Rue Louis le Grand.
Hotel de Bruxelles, Rue Richelieu, is a good house,
where families may be supplied with excelfent dinners
at 4 francs per head, in their own rooms.
Hotel de Castiglione, Rue de Castiglione.
Grand Hotel de Castille, Rue Richdieu, and Bou-
levard des Italiens,

Hotel de Congres, Rue de Rivoli.
Hotel de Conti, Rue de Bouloi.
Crown Tavern, or Hotel de la Couronne, Rue du
March6 St. Honore, No. 10, is kept .by an English-
man, and though a second-rate hotel, possesses many
comforts wantmg in French houses of a superior
character. The charges are moderate, and the ac-
commodation excellent. Table d'h6te 3 francs.
Hotel de Danube et Duphot, Rue Richepanse.
Hotel de Douvres, Rue de la Paix. This house
commands a good view of the Boulevards.
Hotel Dovulier, Rue de Rivoli.
Hotel de VEMquier, or de Londres, Rue de TEchi-
c^uier. This was formerly kept by Mr. Meurice. It
is a good hotel forEnglisn travellers, and the charges
are moderate.
Hot^l dEspagm, Rue Colombier, is a respectable

>d by Google

94 moTWLB*

house near the Luxembourg, or traiKjoil part of
Paris.

Hotel des Etranfert, Rue Vivienne, a very good
kouie, where there if a table d'hdte.

Hotel de I'Europe, Rue de Richelieu.

Hotel de JFhmce, Rue St. Thomas du Louvre.
This hotel has a table d'hOte every day» at four
francs.

Hotel Grange BateliSre, Rue Grange Batelidre.

Hotel de Gframmont, Rue de Grammont, is a clean,
comfortable, and moderate house.

Hotel de Helder, in the street of the same name*
A veiy ffood hotel, where English is spoken.

Hotel de Hollcmde, Rue de la Paix. This is an
excellent house, and is oertamly one of the best con->
ducted in Paris.

Hotel de Hungerfbrd^ Rue Cammartin. The
master of this house speaks English. A single room
may be had here from 1 franc 50 cents to 4 francs
per day.

Hotel des lies Britanniques, Rue de la Paix.

Hotel des Lillois, Rue de Richelieu, No. 63, is
situated near the Palais Royal and the principal thea-
tres. The attendants speak English, as wdl as seve-
ral other foreign languages.

Grand Hotel de Lorukes, Place Vendome. Tins
is an elegant house, and is generally filled with ^ood
company.

Hotel de Londres, Rue Monthabor.

Hotel du Mail, Rue du Mail.

Hotel de Mars, Rue du Mail.

Hotel de la Meuse, Rue Notre Dame des Victoires,
imites the Cafe, Hotel, and Restaurateur. A single
room may be had here from 1 1 to 2 francs per day.

Hotel de Mirabeau, Rue de la Paix.

Hotel de Montauban^ Rue Git^e-Co^ur. This is

>d by Google

« good house for families, who niay be suj^lied with
an excellent dinner at 4 francs per head.

Hotel du Mont Bkmc, Rue de la Paix.

Motel Montmorency, Rue St. Marc.

Hotd de NcmteSy Rue Richelieu, is much fre*
quented.

Hotel de Nelson, Rue Neuve St. Augustin*

Hotel d Oxford, Rue Grodot de Mauroy.

Hotel de la Paix, Rue de la Paix.

Hotel de Paris, Rue de Rivoli.

Hotel du Prince Poniatowski, Rue Cltty.

Hotel du Prince R^cnt, Rue St. Hyacinthe, Fau-
bourg St. Honor6. This hotel is k^ by Mr. Pear-
eey, who also keqis the Crown, but the apartments
here are splendid, the accommodations fiasliionable,
and the diarges, of course, proportionably hi^ier.
They are not, however, so ha^ as at many other
hotds^of similar rank. English is spoken, and ihei^
is good accommodation for carriages. Table d*hdte
Z\ francs.
• Hotel des Princes, Rue Richelieu.

Hotel de Rastadt, Rue Neuve St. Au^stin«

Hotel du Rhin et Moselle, Place Vendome.

Hotel de Richelieu, Rue Neuve St. Augustin.

Gratid Hotd de Rivoli, Rue de Rivoli.

Hotel Sinet, Rue du Faubourg St, Honor6.

Hotel Suhde, Rue de Bouloy.

Hotel Terrasse, Rue de Rivoli.
. OrandHotelde Tours, Rue Notre Dame des Vic-
toires. Endish spoken.

HotddeValois, Rue de Ridielieu, is an exodlent
house.

Hotel Vendome, Rue Neuve des Petits Champs.

Hotel Fivienne, Rue Vivienne. TMs house to*-
m^es a good table d*h6te.

fib^^^am,RuedelaPaix; atoargeandweU*
.^•oiMhiQted house.

>d by Google

90 . HOTELS.

N^w Hotel Windsor, Rne de IWvoli, is ati excel-
lent house for English travellers. It is most delight-
fully situated near the Tuileries and Champs Elysees,
and the apartments are elegantly and comfortably
furnished in the English style. This hotel is remark-
able for its cleanliness and for the attention paid to
travelle?:s by the proprietors, Messrs. Van Hee and
Sister. The cooking and wines are excellent. Car-
riages of every description to all parts of the Con-
tinent.

Hotel dVork, Boulevard Montmartre.

. In these hotels the traveller pays for his apartment
by the night or the week, including bed-linen ; nor is
he ejroected to do more than inhabit the apartment.
jEIis nre, candles, &c., are paid for separately. In
<;onsequence of the scarcity of fuel in Paris, the tra-
veller will find it very expensive to be there in winter,
for tlie firing for one day will cost him more than a
good dinner.

Should a cafS be attached to the hotel, the tra-
veller pught seldom to wander from it for his break-
fast ; for there he will be most comfortably and ex-
peditiously served. If he does not dine at the table
dhSte, he should resort to some neighbouring traiieur
(eating-house.) The dinner of a single person in
his own apartment is seldom well attended to by the
restaurateur of the hotel. It either is not served
punctually to the time, or it is cold, or ill-dressed.
A party, however, may at aU times depend on the
strictest attention ; and may be furnished with an ex*
cellent dinner at 4 or 5 francs per head.

It will surprise the traveller to be informed that
jnany of the hotels furnish a breakfast only, and some
of them not even this ; and that the whole provision
jof the guest must often be procured from a neigh*
bouring cafe, or traiieur. Most of them» however.

>d by Google

HOTELS. 97

Will supply him with genuine wine, at no exorbitant
price.

If the tourist remains in Paris only a few weeks,
he cannot do better than establish himself at one of
these hotels, and breakfast and dine at the cafi and
iahU dhdte of the hotel, or wherever his inclination
or convenience may lead him. The price of apart-
ments varies, according to the accommodation, from
2 to 50 francs per day.

Should he remain in Paris some months, it will be
more economical to hire furnished lodgings in a pri-
vate house. These are easily procured in every part
of the metropolis. In the centre of the city they
are expensive; on the Boulevards they are more
moderate, and exceedingly pleasant; and in the
Faubom-gs they are extremely reasonable. A single
weU-fumished room, in a handsome house, may be
hired for 10 or 12 francs per week ; but inferior rooms
may be had from 4 to 9 francs per week. A small
house, well -furnished, may be obtained from 90 to
120 francs per month.

The Journal des Petites Affiches generally contains
numerous advertisements of apartments to let ; but
I should recommend the visiter, whether on business
or pleasure, to choose the centre of the city, as he will
soon save in time and coach-hire the little exfra ex-
pense of this arrangement.

I wojild, nevertheless, warn the single traveller,
that the manners of the French, and tneir domestic
-arraj^ements, are so different from those to which he
has been accustomed, and the inattention, neglect,
and want of cleanliness of the French servants are
so. great, that he will probably experience much in-
convenience by adopting this plan. He will likewise
flnd it ahnost impossible to nave a single meal pro-
■cured for him by the people of the house ; and he
will be compelled, as in the hotels, to bargain with
K

Digitized by Google

ftSr BOARDlirO»HOtJSfiS. ' ~ ^

a traiteur to fiend his breakfast and hU dinner, which
will be frequently cold, and generally irregular ; or
he must go to the traiteur's for every meal, however
unpleasant may be the weather, or however it may
break in on his arrangements or concerns.

A party, or a family, who have their English or
French domestics vdth them, vnll find it economical,
and not very inconvenient, to hire furnished apart-
ments. Thev will not, indeed, be supplied with many
articles of furniture, and many culinary utensils,
which, in their native country, are deemed indispen-
sably necessary ; but they will easily obtain a few of
them from the landlord, if he be seriously expostu-
lated with ; and they can hire or purchase otho-s.
The Paris markets are well supplied, and jH-ovisions
of every kind are very cheap.

At a few houses, the stranger may board as well
as lodge. The terms are generally reasonable, from
100 to 200 francs per month; but the comfort of
the inmate must depend altogetha* on the character
and habits of those with whom he takes up lus
residence.

Ladies travelling vdthout gentlemen will find it a
convenient plan to board at some ladies* sdiool.

At tli« following houses, also, persons may boeid
•as well as lo^ : —

M. Croix, Rue Faubourg St. Denis.

Madame Durand, 10, Rue Louis le Grand.

Madame Guien, 363, Rue St. Honor6.

Madame Sobiy, Rue Rousselet, No. 21, Faubourg
St. G«*main, takes a limited number of boarders.

Mrs. Target, 26, Rue Mont Blanc, an English lady,
widow of a general officer, only takes six boarders.

Madame Tomassini, No. 6, Rue St. George.

No. 10, Rue d'Artois ; No. 10, Rue du Sentier;
«.nd No. 13, Rue de la Paix, are likewise boarding-
-houses*

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.^AVlft. if

Ca^ci. Ooffee-Houses.

According to a recent official calculation there are
l^l coffee-houses in Paris. Many of^tiiem display
a d^ree of splendour and elegance of which the
stranger could previously form no conception ^ and
even m the very meanest, vases, statues, and mirrors
reaching nearly to the ground, form a strange con-
trast with the Pithiness of the walls, and the mean-
ness of the furniture. They are most of them splen-
didly iUuminated every evening. The tout ensemble
of tnose on the Boulevards forms a bnlliant spectacle.

A considerable proportion of the Parisian's life is
spent in the cafe, Altnough he has an establishment
at home, he firequentiy br^fasts at the caU ; he re-
sets thither at noon for his dSjeuner froid k lafouV'^
chette (his luncheon), composed of sandwiches, chops,
sausages, e^, pctth, with Burgundy, or some other
excellent wme. He peruses the journals, plays at
draughts, chess, tric-trac, dominos, or billiards (cards
are not allowed) ; he converses on the news of the
day, criticises the performance of various actors, or
descants on the merits of the last new play. Aifter
dinner he returns for his coffee and his liqueurs ; and
when he comes from the theatre, he whiles away
another hour over his lemonade, his biscuit, or his
ice.

From nine o'clock in the morning until midnight,
the cqfis are incessantly crowded. Gentlemen and
ladies promiscuously occupy the boxes. The frequent
appearance of women of character and virtue at e\err
place of public resort ; the perfect ease with whicn
they converse with their male companions, and even
with strangers ; the subjects to which they listen with
complacency, and which they appear to understand
perfectly well,— are circumstances that astonish, the

>d by Google

100 <;iFis.

traveller, and which he cannot reconcile with his
English ideas of modesty and female delicacy.

In the more respectable cafes, the most perfect
order and decorum prevail. The conversation is car-
ried on in a low tone of voice : the waiters appear
to divine the wants and to understand the motions
of every guest ; and as the ladies form a part of the
company, the Frenchman deems it as unpolite to sit
with his hat on his head in the cafe as he would in
the drawing-room.

In an alcove tastefully adorned, or on an elevated
seat, sits what the Englishman newly-arrived would
call the bar-maid, but whom the Frenchman regards
as the presiding goddess of the place. She usually
boasts no small portion of native beauty, and that
beauty is heightened by all the embellishment which
the most costly and becoming di-ess can possibly
aiford. She greets every guest with a smile as he
enters, and replies to his parting conge by a gracious
inclination of the head.

The Frenchman would consider it the height of
profanation to seat himself at his table, without first
taking off his hat and paying his respects to her ;
and he never quits the cafe without making her a
profound bow. She listens with complacency to the
nothings which every petit-maitre in his turn whis-
pers in her ear ; and her sole occupation is to offer
herself unblushingly to the gaze of every eye, and to
receive from the guests, or from the waiters, the
money which each has to pay.

The price of every article, that the cafi affords is
inscribed on a kind of bill of fare. The stranger is
therefore liable to no imposition ; and he may enter
any respectable coffee-room, and engage in the con-
versations and amusements of the place, without fear
or suspicion. It will be prudent, however, for him to
avoid pohtical subjects, at least he should not express

Digitized by Google

tJLTU. 101

himself too stronghr on state mattei!^, for the Buona-
partean system of espionage is far from being abo-
Ushed, and one hasty or indiscreet expression may
subject him to much inconyenience.

Into many of the cafes of the Palais Royal, and
especially into the subterranean grottoes, ttie tourist
must enter with caution. They are too often the
haunts of the needy and the designing. Thejr are
the harbour of gamblers and prostitutes ; and, if he
is not perfectly aware of the company by which he
is surrounded, he may be decoyed into hazardous
play, and piDaged without mercy.

The following are a few of the principal cw/5^^.'—

Caf^ des Mitle Colonnes, in the Palais Koyal, so
called because its beautiful gilt columns are reflected
by enormous mirrors skilfully disposed, until they
appear to be at least a thousand. The glare of deco-
ration that presents itself is very imposing. This
caf6 was long celebrated for the beauty ot the female
who presided here, and was universally known as the
belle limonadiere. The elevated seat which she oc-
cupied, was once the throne of the Viceroy of Italy,
and was purchased by the proprietor of the coffee-
house for the exorbitant sum of 1 2,000 livres. The
throne still remains, though the lady has abdicated
after a reign of 20 years* Fashion for a time deserted
this celebrated coffee-house, but it was opened witli
renewed splendour in 1824, and is now very much
frequented.

Ccd'S de Paris, comer of Rue Taitbout, Boulevard
des Italiens, is a magnificent establishment opened
in 1822. Its situation is delightful, and the dinners
are served up here in the first style.

CafS de Foi. This was the first coffee-house
established in the Palais Royal, and it is inferior
to few which that region of luxury and pleasure
ptsents,

Digitized by Google

102 CAF£^.

CafS de la R^gence and Cdfi Valoit, Palais
Royal. These are the favourite resort of chess-play-
ers. The admirers of that complicated, yet msci-
nating game, will always find amusement here.
The latter is also much frequented by the ultras.

Cafe Hardi, Boulevard des Italiens, No. 1 2. Thisr
coffee-room is principally frequented by merchants
and men of business. It is celebrated for its elegant
and not exorbitant dcjeunh froids.

Cafe de la Bourse et du Commerce, Rue Vivienne,
is much resorted to by the English.

Cafe Gravet, at the comer of the Rue and Boule-
vard Montmartre.

CafS Byroriy Boulevard des Capucines.

Cafi Charpentier, at the comer of the Boulevard
Montmartre, and of the street of the same name, is a
very splendid establishment.

Cafe de la Rotonde, in the Palais Royal, a good
house much frequented by foreigners.

Cafi Tortoniy Boulevard des Italiens. This is a
place of fasliionable resort, particularly during the
summer, being celebrated for its ices.

Caft Manoury, Place de lEcole, is the resort of
the players at draughts and dominos.

Cafe Millet, Rue Notre Dame des Victoires, op-
posite the Exchange, is also a very splendid modem
establishment.

CafS des Galeries de V Opera. This coffee-house
is frequented by excellent company, and is fitted up
in a style which reminds the visiter of the descriptions
given of the grotto of Anti Paros.

CafS de Malte, Rue de TArbre-Sec, No. 47, pre-
sents a curious scene during the fortnight before
Easter, when it is often crowded with performers
from the country, who are come to Paris in the hope
of forming engagements.

CafS Parfaity Palais Royal, was decorated bjr
LfiQ4pD» one of the first architects in Paris,

Digitized by Google

01F£S. 103

Cafk Militaire, Rue St. Honors, is noted for the
excellence of its coffee.

Cafe Lemblin, Palais Royal, is much frequented
by the liberals.

Cafe Vincent, Boulevard du Temple, splendidly
decorated with looking-glasses and colmnns in imi-
tation of green marble.

Cafi Zoppi, Hue des Fosses St Germain des
Pres. This was the rendezvous of every literary
character. Voltaire, Rousseau, Fontenelle, and all
the wits at the close of the last century, used to
assemble here. The Caf6 Zoppi has not yet lost its
literary character.

Cafe TurCy Boulevard du Temple. In addition to
one of the most elegant coffee-rooms in Paris, tiiis
place boasts of gardens, beautifully laid out, where
the visitors are entertained with occasional concerts
and billiards.

Cqfi des Aveugles, at the upper end of the east
stone galleiy, Palais Royal, is a subterranean coffee-
house, chiefly for the lower orders.

Cafe de la Paix, Palais Royal. This place is built
in the form of a theatre, and was formerly the Theatre
Montansier. Rope-dancing and music are performed
here every evening for the amusement of the visiters,
who only pay for their refreshments, indeed they are
not obliged to take any unless they please. The doors
are always open.

The two coffee-houses which we have last de-
scribed are frequented by the worst company, witii
the exception of a few curious persons who go there
to witness the manners of the lowest class of
society.

The caf6s and saloons of the restaurateurs are
not partitioned into boxes, but the whole of the
room is usually laid open and small tables arranged
round it.

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104 RESTAURATEURS.

When Caf<S Esteminet is written over the entrance
of coffee-houses, it implies that smoking is allowed «
The Caf(^s Estaminets are not of course frequented
by the best society.

Restaurateurs* Eating-Houses.

The superior class of eating-houses in the Englisli
metropolis bear the nearest resemblance to the res*
taurateurs of Paris, yet convey an extremely imper-
fect idea of their convenience, splendour, and luxuiy.
In London, the stranger lives, or may live entirely
at his hotel. In Paris, he breakfasts at a caf^, dines
at a restaurateur's, returns to the caf6 for his Hqueurs
or his tea, again resorts to the restaurateur's for his
su^er, and adjourns to his hotel to sleep.

llie traiteur has likewise accommodations for
those who dine at his house, but he is more employed
in serving the neighbouring hotels and private houses
with dinners ready-dressed*

The restaurateurs are even more numerous than
the caf6s, as there are, according to a recent official
calculation, 927 of these establishments. The French
have little idea of domestic comfort. They appear
to live every where rather than at home ; and very
many famihes, who occupy respectable houses, and
who have a retinue of servants, scarcely ever dine
at their own habitation. Ladies may, without any
impropriety, visit the restaurateurs in the same way
as they do the caf6s.

Many of the restaurateurs vie with the caf(Ss in
profusion of ornament. The bill of fare (la carte),
to the astonishment and frequent embarrassment of
the visiter* consists of nearly 250 articles.

I have inserted one for the instruction aiMl
fkmus^ment of my reader* I am afraid that he
win find many of the articles unintelligilde, unlesft

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RESTAURATEURS.

105

he is an adept in French cookery. He will in-
stantly perceive that it was impossible for me to
give a translation which would be much more in^
telligible than the ori^nal. The hors doeuvres are
small dishes to garmsh or fill up the comers of
the table. The French are fond of a profusion of
little dishes. The entremets are different prepara->
tions of vegetables, salads, and eggs.

VERY, RESTAURATEUR, PALAIS ROYAL.

POTAGES.

An Tiz, ii la parde - - -

Au Vermicelle clair ou ii la

pnrec ------

Ri« h la Turque - - - -

A la Conty - - - -. ■ -

fr.s.
0 13

0 12
0 15
0 15

Consomme - - -
Potage printanier
Potage aux laitues on aux

choux - - - -
Potage au macaroni -

- 0 13
. 0 15

HORS-D'(EUVRES.

Artichautsala poivrade -10

Olives 0 15

Hultres d'Etratet - - - 0 15
Salade d'anchois ----10
Beurre et Radis - - - - 0 12
Cornichons - - - - - 0 10
'ihon k rhuile vierge --10

Citron 0 8

Pied de cochon k la Sainte-

M^n^hould - - - - 0 12

Boudin noir - - - - - 0 12

Saucisson ------012

2 Saucissea ------012

Jambon de Bayonne k la

gel^e ou aux ^pinardst 1 10
Jambon de Bayonne au na-

turel ------ 1 10

C6telette de pore frais, sauce

Robert, ou au naturel 1 0
2 (Eufs fraia 0 12

BCEUF.

Bceuf,8ance anx cornichons,
ou au natural - - -

Boeuf, sauco tomate - - -

Bceuf, garni de racines et
de laitues - - - -

Roast-Beef aux pommes de
terre

Beef-Steak aux haricots ou
aux laitues - - - .-
Id. au beurre d'anchois

Filet de boeuf saut^ dans sa

glace

Palais de b«euf au gratin •

0 15
0 15

0 15

1 5

Filet de boeuf saut^ anx

truffes ----;- 2 10

Filet de boeuf saut^ au via

de Mad«re - - - - 2 0

Filet de boeuf saut^ aux cor-
nichons ----- 1 6

Entre-cftte, sauce aux cor-
nichons .^---15

Entre-c6te k la mattre

d'hfttel 15

Palais de Boeuf k la pou-
lette ou k VltaUenne

ChQuxQouveauau petit sal€ 1

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100

CARTB DB VERT,

Filet mignon en ohercetiil
S C6telettes k la financi&re
9 CAtelettes aax haricots oa
aux laitoes - • - •
S C6telettes au naturel oa

pan^s

SCAtelettes d'agneau aax

laitaef

3 RognoDS k la brochette •
Rognons aa yin de Cham-
pagne ■

MOXJTON<

fr-f:

1 10
S 0

1 10

1 0

1 10
1 4

1 5

Oigot brais^ k la chioor4e

ou aux narets - • •
Oigot brais^ aux haricots

oa aux laituM - - -
Poitrine aax laitaes - - -
Poitrine k la Sainte-Men^-

hoald -

Carbonnade aax ^pinarda

oa k la ohJcor^ . - -
Carbonnade aax haricots -

1
1

1 0

ENTREES DX VOLAILLK.

CoqniUe de volaiUe aux
truffes

CoqniUe anx champignons

Supreme de poulet aax truf-
fes ou au concombre -

Filet de poularde aux truf-
fes ou an concombre -

Blanquette de poularde aax

truffes 8 10

Chapon au consomm^, 12
fr. ; le quart - - -

Chapon an riz, 14 fr.; le
quart

Kariz ou Filan k TEgfp-
tienne ------

Fricassee de ponlet, 6 fr. }
moiti^ ------ 8

Poulet k la tartars, 6 fr. ;
moiti< 3

Poulet k Testragon, 6 fr. ;
rooiti^ 8

S 10
I 10

^ 10
3 10

3 0

3 10
3 0

3 0

Fritot de poulet garni, 6 fr. ;

moitie ------

Marinade de penlet. 6 fr. ;

moiti^ 3 0

Ragoftt mtU ii la financi^re 3 10
Salade de volaiUe gamie

aux anchois ; le quart
Cuisse de poularde h la tar-
tare

Capilotade de volaiUe - -
Cuisse de poulet en papil-

lotte

Perdrix k la pur^e, 3 fr.

10 s. ; moiti^ . - .
Perdreau froid en jgel^ 3

fr. 10 s. J moiti^ - -
Pigeon de velifere it la cra-

pandine - - - - -
Pigeon de Toli^re aux

pointes d'asperges • •
Poole t nonvean en frieas-

s^e, 6 fr. ; moiti^ •' •
VEAU DE PONTOISE.

8 0

1 15

1 15
9 0

9 10

8 0

Ris devean aux haricots ou

aux pointes d asperges
Ris de veau kla chicorte ovt

k Voseille 3 0

Ris de veau k la financiire

aux tniffes • - - - 3 10
Ris de veau k la poulette - fi 10
Blanquette de veaa anx

champignons - • • 1 5
Fricandeanl la chicor^e ou

kl'oseille- - - - - 1 5
Fricandean aux haricots -15
Cervelle frite on au benrre

noir 10

Oreille de veau marin^ frite 1 0
Oreille de vMa fanrie frite 1 0

3 0

I 5

CAtelette en papillotte • -
C6telette de veau aux hari-
cots --.-.--
Cfttelette de vean grille
aux ^pinards . . - -
C6telette et poitrine d'ag-
nean anx pointes d'aa-

perges

Epigramme d'agnean - •
Blanquette d'agoeau - -
T^te de veau en tortue - -
T6te de veau aa natnrel on
saaoetomate- • • •
Langne de vean, sauce pi*
quante, on aax ^pinaidi 1 0

1 5
1 5

1 13
115
1 5
9)0

1 0

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«lAta DB VBltl^.

lot

PATISSERIE.

8 Petit8 P&tAs an jus - - 0 16

S Petits Pftt^s k la Becha-
mel aux truffes ---10

Tourte de filet de poularde
k la Bechamel aux
trnffes 8 16

Tourte de saomon aux

truffes 2 0

/r. f.
Tourte d'anguiUe, on de

morue -80

Tourte k la financib'e aux

truffes 8 0

Vol-au-vent de cervelle de

yean ii ralltmaad« - 1 16
Tourte de GodiTeau - - > 1 10
Tourte de MoriUet • • • 1 10

Maquereau frais au benrre

noir -

Idaquereau frats k la mattre

d'hOtel

Turbot, sauce aux huttres
Turbot, sauce tomate ou an

beurre £mdu • - • •
Tarbot, sauce aux cftpres ou

kl'huili

Saumon, sauce tomate ou it

la gen^Foise - - - -
Saumon, sauce aux c&pres

ou k I'kuile - - - -
£scaloppe de saunxoa aux

truffes

"Rtjey sauce aux c&pres on

an beurre noir - - •

Poulet nonveau, 7 fr.{ le
quart -

Pigeon de volifere - - -

Pndreau gris

Poularde, 12 fr.; moiti£,.0
fr. ; le quart - - - -

Pouletnormand, 7 fr.; moi-
tie 3 fr, 10 8.; le quart

roissoNg.

Morue 3k la mattre d'hOtel

ou k la provenpale - -
Anguine & la tartarej ou li

lapoulette - - - -

Ecrevisses

Carpe frite,3 fir. ; moiti^ -
Sole frite ou aux fines

herbes • ^ . - - -
Laitance de carpe frite •
Eperlwis-frit - , , ^ .
Alose h. Toseille on sauct

aux cftpres - - - »■
Alose k la HoUandaise - -
Filet de sole au gratia on

frits --..--
Monies aux fines herbes -
QoujoDs frite » - - - -

HOTS.

Veau de Pontoise en agn^au
Filet de boeuf piqu^ . - -
Salade de laitue aux oeu6

durs

Salade de laitue - - - -
Salade de romaine - - •
Salade de chicor^e rerte •
Salade deconcombres - •

3 10

3 10
3 10

1 5

1 10

3 10

1 10

1 10
3 0
3 0

3 0

115

ENTREMETS.

Ckmcombre k la B^hamel

ou au lus

Acperges a la sauce ouk

rfiuile

AspeTges en petit pois - •
Lattues au jne - . . -
Haricots blancs k la maltre-

d*h6tel

Haricots blancs au jus - -
PomsMs de terre k la mat-

tn4,'h6Ul' - . - •

110

1 ]0
1 10
1 6

1 0
1 0

1 0

fomm.es de terre h, la lyon-

naise' --»---
F(NEnmes de terre h. I'eau de

sej ------ -

Epinards au jus k la cr£me
Chicorte k la er^e ou au

Jos

Create aux champignons -
Champignon k la proven9ale
(£«fs brooiU^ aux pomtes

d'aeperges • - • •

11»

3 0
3 0
110

8 10
1 10

lie

110
I 10

3 0

1 0

{'I

1 0
1 5
1 5

I 10

>d by Google

109

GARTH DE VHRT.

fr.s,
(Ettffl poch^s fttl JUS Ott k

' Voseille 10

Omelette aux fines herbes - 0 18
Macaroni d'ltalie - - - 1 10

fr.s.

Chouxflenrs & la sauce

blanche ou aaj as - - 1 O
Haricots nouveanx k la mai-

tre-d'hotel ou k I'anglaise 2 0

ENTREMETS de SUCRE.

Petit pot de gelee d'orange

ou de rhum - - - - 1 5
Petit pot de crfeme - - - 0 10
S Menngnes gamies ^ la

cr^me ------14

' — ou aux confitures 1 5

Omelette aux confitures - 1 5
Omelette au sucre ---10

Beignets de pommes --10

Beignets souffle _ - . . x 5

Tourte de pommes - - - 1 10

Ris souffle 2 0

Omelette soufflde - - . - 1 lo

Souffl d aux pommes deterre 110

Plnm-pudding 2 0

Charlotte de pommes - - 2 0

DESSERT.

Fratse et sucre - « - - 1 10

Orange et sucre - - - - 0 18

Salade d'oranges - - - - 15

Qaatre Mendiaos - - - - 0 15

Poire ...'---- 0 18

PommedeCalvi - - - - 0 10

Pomme de Reinette - - - 0 10
CJompote de poires ou de

pruneftux ----- 1 5

Compote de pommes - - - 1 5

P6che 81 reau-de-vie - - - 0 18

Abricot k reau»de-vie - - 0 12

Deux prunes k I'eau-de vie 0 15

Cerises k I'eau-de-vie - ■• 0 15

biscuits en moule - - - 0 10

Macarons ------0 18

Marmelade d'abricots - - 1 5

Confiture de cerises - - - 1 5

Gel^e de GroseiUes - - - 1 5
Fromage de Neufch&tel ou

de Gruyfere - - - - 0 6

Fromage de Brie ... - 0 8

Fromage de Roquefort - - 0 10
Fromage de Chester ou de

Parmesan - - - - " 0 10

Caf^, latasse, Ifr.; la demi-
tasse 0 10

Punch au Rhum - - - - 6 0

Punch k I'ean-de-vie - - 6 0

Glace - 14

VINS ROUGES.

Beaune ordinaire - - - - 2 0

Beaune 1^ quality - - - 3 0

Pomard ------- 4 0

Volnay 4 0

Nuits 4 0

£Jambertin 6 0

Caihbertin 1802 - - - - 8 0

ClosSt. Georges - - - - 6 0

Clos- Vougeot de Tourton - 8 0

■Romance ---."""? J
Bordeaux-St'Emilian --50

Bordeaux-Aubrion - -
Bordeaux-St.-Estftve -
Bordeaux-St.-Julieu
Bordeaux-Ch&teau-Mar-

geanx

Bordeaux-vieux, claret -
Bordeaux-Lafifte - - -
Bordeaiix-Moufon - -
Vin de Porto vieux - -
Vin de I'Hermitage - -
Vin de la C6te Rdtie -

De a»ably
Jieursaufr

2 0 1

4 0 J Mont-Rach^ de 1802

VINS BLANCS.

I Mont-Rach€ 6 0

, 9 0

>d by Google

9A&TI DB yiBr.

1(^

Stave •.-..---
Smateme - -' - - - -
Cksmpag^ne non monaseax
Champag:ne rosay - - -
Champagne mouss^ux •• ■
TiMone de Champagne
Champagne AI - - - •

fo-

ampagne
rHermit

De rHermitage
DuRhin- - -
Saint-Perray -
Bierre anglaise
Bierre blanche

. 8 0

• 7 0

• 10 •
. 6 0
. 9 0
. 1 0

Mad^e see -
Malaga - •
Footignan •

VINS DE LIQUEURS,

LA DEUI-BOUTKII.LE. •

. - « S 0 I De Lnnel

.t . - 5 0 Alicante
. - - 4 0 1 Rota - -

ViNS DE LIQUEURS,

LK VERBS.

VermoQette 1 0 I Alicante - - .

Malvbisie 1 10 Malaga on Rota -

liad^e sec - - - - - 0 15 | Muscat de Lnnel •

LIQUEURS FINES,

LE VEBRt.

Extrait d* Absinthe - - - 0 10
Kan-de-vie de Cognac --0 6

Eau-de-vie d'Andaye - - 0 10

Eau-de-vie de Dantiick - 0 15
Kinehenwa$«er, 12 ; haile

de kirschenwasser - - 0 15

Rhum vieuE - - - - - 0 10

Fleur d'Orange - - - - 0 10

Koyeau de Phalsbourg - - 0 15

Noyeau ordinaire - - - 0 10

Anisette de BordeauE - - 0 10

Anisette d'Hollande - - - 1 0

Anisette d'HoUande rouge - 1 0

Cr^medeMenthe- - - - 0 10

Cf^me d'Absintbe • - - 0 15

Curafao d'Hollande
Cura9ao d'Hernu -
Crfime de Cachon
Nectar du P^rou -
Vanille ... -
Scubac . - •- -
Huileile Rose - -
Huile de Vteus -
Crdoie des BarbUdes
Mirobalanty - -
C6drat - - . -
Marasquin tr^fin
Eau de la c6te - - -
Geni&vre d'Hollande
Contte de Malte -

4 0
6 0
6 0

0 16
0 15
0 15

1 0

0 10
-0 15
0 15
0 10
0 10
0 10
0 15
0 15
0 15

0 15

1 0
0 15
0 10
0 15

•Rie account ^hich I have already given of French
cookery, in the description of the Calais- inns, will
in some measure direct the choice of the traveUer
amidst the profusion of luxuries. They who are fond
of made dishes will here enjoy them in the highest
perfection. The gourmand will find himself in the
favourite region of epicurism. The rognons de
mouUm au vin de Champagne, la cwrbmnade h la
L

>d by Google

110 ms8Vi.oAAnHn».

ehicor^, le filet de hoeuf aaut^ au vin de Ma4^e,
la fricas^^^ de poulet, le ragout miU^ le. fricandeau
de veau a la ehtcorie, ou h foeeiUe ou aux haricoU,
^., will afford him an inexhaustible variety.
. The traveller who prefers the English style of
cookery, will not object to many of the preparations
of fish, although he must not expect to nnd them so
deliciously fresn as in London. The mackarel and
the soles will rarely displease, but he must expect
them dressed with sorrel sauce. The soup is de*
cidedly eoual to that which the best English taverns,
afford. The stranger will probably object to the
attempts to conceal the naturial poverty and want of
Juice m the French shambles' meat, by a medley of
poignant sauces, but he will not be much disgusted
with either the fillet of beef or the beef-steak, al-
though he will probably think the former sadly over-
done, and the latter too dry and tasteless ; out the
edielette de veau en papiUote he will eat with con-
siderable appetite.

There are two modei) of ordering dinner, either al
a certain price firom 30 or 40 sous to 15 or 20 francs,
p^ head, or by choosing difiRerent dishes firom the
carte, ^e latter is the most usual method, the
former being almost entirely confined to the inferior
class of restaurateiuis.

The price of the different articles varies much at
different restaurateurs. The Oaf(6 de Paris is pro*
bably as dear as any in Paris, but it is elegant and
fashionable, and the dinners are most exquisitely
cooked. I would reconomend every toiuist to dine
there once at least, that he may witness the very
acm6 of French ei)icurism.

The first question which the visiter is a«ked, ia
what wine he will take with his dinner. It is not ex-*
pected, nor is it usual, to order champagne, daret, or
any high-p^rioedmne* The Parisiaii generally oi:dm

>d by Google

MfTAinEtAmTM. Ill

the seeond wme on the list, viz., the usual table-wine
of a superior qualitv. To this he confines himself,
unless, as a bonne^ooucke, and to keep pace among
tiie discordant elements of a French dhmer, he finishes
with a glass of Eau-de-vie de Dantziok, Noyau,
Curagock d Hollander 4>o. Half a bottle of most of
the Xmt wines may be had at any of the restaura-
tHurs.

The following may be considered the average price
of a comiMable diimer :-^*

fnnea. sons. 8. d.

PotaM «u Yttrmicelle .•^•^O 18 or 06

Pftin 0 5 .. 0 Si

Sole-frite .-...-- J 10 . . f 1

CAtelette de veau en pftpiUoto - - - 1 6 .. 1 0|

Haricots verts * 1 0..0 10

Froxnage - - - -'- - - 0 0..03

Beaune, 1 re. qnalittf - ^ - * ^ 3 0 . » t 6

8 18 7 6

At Vefour's, the bill for the same articles, and well
dressed, would scarcely amoimt to seven francs.

The principal restaurateurs ar^, the Cqf^deParUf,
Boulevard des Italiens, already mentioned.

Very> in the Palais Royal. Although M. Very is
dead, this house is still continued, but is not so much
firequented as formerlv,

Les Trots Frhres Pr(yoenceaux^ in the north gal*
kiy of the Palais Royal, No. 98* This house is
very much frequentea, and the dinners are well
dressed.

Henneveu, au Ca^ran Bleu, Bwilevard du Temple,
No. 27 : an elegant house, pleasantly situated, with
moderate charges, and much frequented by English*-
men.

Vefour, Palais Eoyal, Galerie ViMe, No. 212.
The saloon, although nandsome, is not so magnificent
as those above mentioned; but the attendance is
good, Ihe cookery excellent, and the charges very

Ij 2

>d by Google

lh% RlSTAURATItJRf.

reasonable. It is a neat house, on a smaB scale, and
well frequented.

Chauchard, No. 6, Rue du Hazard Rit^iflieu.

Bombarda, Rue Rivoli, No. 10.

Champeaux, Rtie des FUles St. Thomas, No. 13.

Richard, PcUais Royal, three dishes, 2 fr.

FoUet's, No. 40, Palais Royal, four dishes, ^ fr.

Rosset, Rite de Mondovi, No. I, at the comer Of
the Rue de Rivoli.

Gonnet, late Goupy, Boulevatddu Temple, No. 36.

NicoUe, Boulevard des Italiens, No. 11.

Biffi, Rue de Richelieu, No. -98, an Italian house.

Boissier, Galerie.de Pierre, Palais Royal, No. 82.

Lavenne, Rue St Honor4, No. 33(5.

Lemelle, Passage Montesquieu, No. 5.

Lemardelay, Rue Richelieu, No. 100.

iKHntier, Rue Orange Batelihre, No. 6.

Borrel, Rocher de Concale, 61, Rue MontoT"
gueil. This place is celelnrated for its fish and game,
dressed in a superior style. It is the favourite resort
of the gourmands of Paris. The charges are as
reasonable as the cookery is good.

Grignoui 4, Rue Neuve des Petits Champs, The din*
ners here are well dressed, and the wines excellent

Lambert, 21, Rue de Richelieu, near the Palais
Royal, is a good and cheap house.

in Rue Fromenteau, near the Palais' Royal, is
another cheap house, where a good dinner may be
had for 26 spus.

La Rapie, on the banks of the Seine, is frequented
for its delicious fresh-water fish, and for its kidneys
stewed in champagne.

La Burette du Palais, and Le Veau qui Tttte,
both on La Place du Chatdet, are celebrated for a
peculiar way of dressing sheep's trotters.

If the traveUer prefer the English mode of cookery,
he may go either to

>d by Google

Tilbrook, 17, Rue Lepelletier, or to

Little CfarrauHiy^$, No. !• Rue Colbert, where
breaMasts, dinners, and suppers, are served up at all
hours.

D^eimera ^ la/uurehette commence at the rettau .
TBkBwn about noon ; and dinnen are served up from
3 till night. Suppers are seldom eatem

SfflUe restaurateurs profess to furnish four dishes,
half-a-bottle of wine, a dessert, and as much bread as
the guest chooses to eat, for 30 sous (U. 3d,) They
likewbe add, as an inducement to the Parisian, that
their saloons are gilded and decorated with mirrors.
I would not, however, advise the Englishman to ven-
ture into UiDse abodes of splendid filthioess. The al-
most ochre -coloured table-cloth ; the rusty fork, the
prongs of which are half filled up with dirt ; the
rough-handled, worn-out, and black knife ; the greasy
plate, the yet greasier waiter, and a complicatioii of
tiliaaous odours, will render it impossible fbt him
to eat one mc^rsel At a reputable restaurateur*s
he will meet with little to disgust ; but he may be
assured that there is nothing in the vilest eating-
bmise, in the w^orst part of London, half so filthy as
the cheap restcmrateurs or traiteura in Paris.

The English have felt a prejudice against the
FreiKih and other foreigners for «a$ing frog^, and
auiuy have sui^sed it to be the poor fVenchman's
pnnciiml simport. The traveller, howev^, would be
undeceived by calling for a dish of fricasseed frogs ;
add, much as he would relish that peculiar and ex-
quisite dish, he would no doubt be astonished to find
tnat a small plate, at a first-rate hotel, would co$t
him a g^nea* A fri«nd of mine paid that price a
^mrt time since. The frogs are of a particular kind«
fattened for the purpose, and only the thighs are
made use o£^ so that a great number are required to
make a tokifable dish*

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1 14 FRICK OF F&OTI«XOil8, ScC.

Interprigter, Glass Coaches^ ^.

Connected with all the principal hptels are vaiets
de placsy who may be hired at so much per day.
One who speaks English expects from 4 to 6 francs,
finding his own meals.

A ^ass coach may be hired from 20 to 25 francs
per day, including the coachman, but if it is required
to go into the environs, the coachman expects 4 or ft
francs extra. A cabriolet costs from 15 to 18 francs
per day.

Price ofPfavisions, CMhingy ^.

The following list will enable the traveller to form m
tolerable idea of the price of provisioi^si.

A 41b. loaf of the best bread costs frtxn 20 to 24
sous, but that of an infierior quality may be bought
for 12 sous. Salt butter is about 16 sous per lb., and
fi^sh 22 sous.

Mutton varies frcnn 10 to 16 sous. Beef from 13
to 16 sous, and veal from 14 to 18 sous. Pork co^
fr<Hn 14 to 18 sous per lb., and cheese frtmi 10 to 1«
sous.

Fowls cost from 1 to 3 francs each, and geese 3
frtmcseach. Grame is reasonable ; partiidflesmv^be
had at from 14 to 30 sous a brace, and a hare from
4 to 5 francs.

Fish andvegeti^;4es are much the same price as in
London ; but fruit (except Ynranges) is remaricabiy
cheap.

Ordinaiy wine costs from 15 to 35 sous^wr botlie ;
brandy and gin about 3 francs ; and rum about 5
francs. Beer costs about 8 sous per pot, or 10 sous
per bottle, but it is not so j;ood as in London.

The water of the Seine is used as a beverage by

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FORMS OM THS TRATXUlilR^S ARIIVAL. ILd

the inhabitants of Paris, without incdnvenience, but
as it is slightly piirgadve, strangers should mix it
with wine, brandy, or a little vinegar.

' Clothing in Paris is reasonable. A coat costs from
50 to 100 francs, according to its quality; awai^
eoat frt>m'20 to 26 francs; a silk waistcoat, 16 to 24
fr^oncs ; trowsers from 25 to 40 fiancs; a hat, 26
francs ; Wellington boots, 1 6 francs ; shoes, 8 francs ;
silk stockings, from 7 to 12 francs ; cotton stockings,
from 4 to 1 0 francs.

LiEulies* wearing aj^arel may be considered dear*
Silks are rather cheaper than in England, but cottons
are much dearer. Ladies* shoes of the veiy best
quality, whether silk or leather, may be had for 6
francs per pair ; and boots from 12 to 20 francs.
Boiii shoes and boots, however, maybe procured
cheaper if bought ready money. Lc^hcmi bonnets
maybe obtained at various prices from 10 to 100
fraacs. Making a gown costs from 6 to. 20 francs.

Necessary Forms on the Strcmgefs arrival at^ or
departure fnom^ Paris,

Soon after the traveller has arrived at his hotel, a
paper, ruled in different columns, will be presented
to him. by the master of the house, in which he will
be require! to insert his name, coimtiy, usual abode,
age, profession, &c. The master of every hotel wA
lodging-house, is compelled, under very severe
penalties, daily to transmit to the police this account
of every stranger who takes up his tenq>oraxy abode
, with him.

In whatever fortified town the traveller may stop*
even for one night, he wiU be required tp fiU up a
similar paper.

The passport must likewise be presented at the
(xp^ of pdiee, where it will be exphan^ for

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1 1^ VOEMS OK THB TftJLVXLLBm's ARRWAL*

another. Much trouble will be saved by comdoif-
sioning the master of the hotel to arrange tiiis
business.

Itynil be advisable for the tourist usually to cany
his passport with him in his excursions through Pant
and its environs ; it will not only procure him ad-
mission to tiie museums, but entiUe him to many
prtvUeges which he could not otherwise obtain with-
out much trouble and delay. It will likewise be con-
venient to be enabled instantly to produce it. should
it be unexpectedly demanded by any of tlie agents of
the pohce.

l4evious to Ihs leaving Paris, the passport must be
sent to the British ambassador, to be countersigned.
It should be sent one or two days before the traveller
intends to commence his journey, lest any accidental
delay should disarrange his plans.

A&ar the passport is returned from the British
ambassador, it must be transmitted to the office of
police, Qtud des Or/lvres, where it is likewise coun-
tersigned.

The traveller will then be directed to the office of
the Minister of Foreign Affairs, Rue Neuve des Ca-
jmeifUi, where he wi& be charged 10 francs. Per-
sons, however, have frequently dispensed with this
fimn, and have experienced no mconvenience.

The British ambassador signs passports b^ween
&e hours of 11 and 1.

If the traveller wish to avoid the examinations to
which his luggage will be subjected at the frontier, he
may, for a v^ trying expense, ha^ it sealed up at
the Custom House at Pans. This will save him all
tether trouble or delaj. This offiee is at Rue
d'Enghien, No. 32, and is openeveiy day from 9 to 3.

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iir
HISTORY

AlTD

PRESENT STATE OP PARIS.

Paris deprives its name from being the capital of the
Parisii, but when it first assumed that appellation is
unknown. Numerous are the conjectures respecting
the derivation of the word Parisii, Some have
imagined that this tribe descended from the Parrha-
sians, a people of Arcadia, whom Hercules conducted
to Gaul. Others have pretended that some Trojans,
escaping from the destruction of their country, fled to
Gaul, and building a new city called it Paris, in
honour of the son of Priam, Others have derived
the name from Paris, the eighteenth king of Celtic
Gaul. Many respectable authors have s^opted an
opinion not destitute of ingenuity. A noble temple,
dedicated to the worship of Isis, once stood in the
neighbourhood of Paris. Its ruins were lately to be
seen near St. Germain-de-Pr6s. Hence the sur-
rounding inhabitants were called Parisii, or those
who lived near the temple of Isis. The most pro-
bable conjecture is, that this tribe of Gauls was de-
dominated Parisii from their inhabiting the banks of
lihe Oise, whose ancient name was Isia.

The origin of Paris is enveloped in total obscurity.
The first mention which occurs of it is in the Com-
mentaries of Caesar.

A universal revolt of the Gauls had taken place on
the return of their conqueror to Italy ; yet, jealous
of each oth^r, as well as mdi^ant at the yoke of the
inyader, tiiey had neglected to concentrate their

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118 HISTOftT OF

forces, and ea<^h tribe had sworn singly to defend its
native soil from the usurpation of the Komans. La-
bienus, one of the lieutenants of Caesar, attacked
them separately, and found them an easy conquest.

Having subdued twenty-five of the Gaulish tribes*
he presented himself before the capital of the Parisii,
which was then called Lutetia. Twice the valour of
the inhabitants repelled his furious assault, and^the
Roman was compelled to retreat to Melun. There
he constructed numerous boats, filled them with 14»
soldiers, and sent them down the Seine to attack the
city at every practicable point, while he renewed the
assault by land. The Parisii, fearful of being sur-
rounded, burned their metropolis to the ground, aban-
doned the smoking ruins, and posted tiiemselves on
the heights of Meudon, there awaiting the approach
of the invader, and resolved to conquer or die.

An obstinate conflict ensued. The Parisians fought
with the fury of despair ; nor did they yield until
the greater part of their comrades, their leader, Ca-
mulogenus, and all his chiefs, had fedlen on the
bloody field.

Caesar soon perceived how important was the
situation of Lutetia for the maintenance of his con-
quests. He speedily rebuilt the city, embelUshed it
with numerous puUic edifices, fortified it with walls,
and defended the approach to it by two forts, placed
at the head of the wooden bridges, where now stand
Le Petit Pont, and Le Pont au Change.

By prudent and conciliatory measures, the rem-
nant of the original inhabitants, who had escaped the
ftiry of the sword, were allured fi^om the woods in
which they had taken refiige, and Lutetia was soon
re-peopled. The barbarous manners of the Gauls
were gradually changed, and, instead of an unquiet
and insecure liberty, they were placed under the
salutary protection of a regular govenmient.

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PA%Y8. lid

A ^mpany of merchants was eistablished at Lu*
ietia, with the privilege of the exclusive navigaticm
of the Seine. The riches which they speedily ac-
quired were employed in further embellishing the
city. It rapidly increased on the north and on the
fiouth, and became the residence of the prefect of
Graul. A palace was built on the west of the city,
another (Le Palais des Thermes) on the south, an
arena under the hill of St. Victor, and an aqueduct,
^ihich conveyed the waters of Arcueil to the PalaU
des Tkermes.

Some of the emperors occasionally resided here.
Constantine and Uonstans visited it, and Jtdian
passed two or three winters in Lutetia. Valentinian
issued many of his celebrated decrees here ; andGra*
tian, his son, lost under its walls a battle against
Maximus, which cost him his empire and his life.

In 260, Dionysius, or St. Denis, brought hither
the first tidings of the Gospel, and suffered a crud
death on the mil of Montmartre.

In 486, Lutetia was conquered by the Franks, who
changed its Roman name, and called it Paris, from
its abHoriginal inhabitants. Clovis fixed the seat of
Iris empire here.

Under the princes of this dynasty, who reigned 266
years, the Latin tongue ceased to be commonty
^ken, and was succeeded by, or mingled with, the
Celtic. The Roman laws yielded to the Salic cus-
toms, and the people were enslaved by the nobles,
and became their absolute property. Paris, however,
preserved its liberty, its commerce on the Seine, and
its municipal laws ; but literature and the arts had
fled, and the night of ignorance overspread the whole
of the continent.

Few of the princes of the second dynasty resided
at Paris. Charlemagne, occupied by his conquests,
Mver inhaHted it, although he occasionally held his

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120 HISTORY OP

court at St. Denis. Nevertheless, the Parisiafts Were
much indebted to him ; for his love of science and ^e
arts su^g:ested the establishment of numerous schools,
by the mfluence of which the character and manners
of the people were materially and happily changed.

Under his feeblje successors, Paris became the pa-
trimony of some of the hereditary coimts.

Allured by its riches, the Normans pillaged it in
845. They reduced it to ashes, and desolated even
its suburbs in 856 ; and in 872, they once more at-
tacked and ravaged it. These disasters have left few
vestiges of the monuments built by the Romans, or
by the kings of the first dynasty.

In 885, the Normans again attempted the siege of
Paris. In vain the inhabitants entreated succouf
from Charles the Bald. Their own valour, directed
by the genius of their noble count Eudes, compelled
tne Normans to raise the siege at the end of two
years. Charles, justly covered with ignominy, wais
deposed, and the crown placed on the head of Eudes.
It became hereditary in his family, when his grand-
son, Hugh Capet, was elected in 987.

The first pnnces of this dynasty, anxious for the
prosperity of a city that had been their peculiar pa-
trimony, and the defence of which had elevated them
to the throne, continued to reside here, in the edifice
now called the Palace of Justice. They confirmed
the ancient privileges of the citizens, an^ granted
them many new immunities. The schools of instruc-
tion were increased, and the university estaUished*
A new city was added to the ancient capital towards
the north, and fortified with walls.

Paris owes its chief ornaments to Philip Augustus^
who erected many of the public buildings, paved the
streets, and completely surrounded Sie city and
suburbs with a wall.

Henry IV, planned and executed most of the

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sqiures, ftnd erected the Pont-Neii£ Louis XIV.
contributed much to its embellishment He con-
verted its gates into triumphal arches ; filled up the
ditches, from the stagnant water of which putrid and
noxious effluvia constantly arose ; and planted the
Boulevards.

Before the Revolution, Pans contained 46 parish
churches, 20 subsidiary churches, 11 abb^s, 133
monasteries and convents, 13 colleges, 15 public
sciiools, and 26 hospitals.

It may not be uninteresting to take a cursory view
of the new appropriations of the numberless convents,
and other religious establishments, that were sup-
passed at the beginning of the Revolution. Three
of them have been converted into conunodious healthy
prisons, and a penitentiary house for women, viz., St,
JPelagie, St Lazarey and the Mudelonettes, Four
other convents have become extensive ho^itals ; the
lymg-in hospital, the hospital for venereal diseases
(aux ci'devant CaptmnsJ, and the mihtary hospital
of the Vol de Grace, Six commodious, and most of
them elegant and extensive, markets, have replaced
a like number of convents and churches, viz., the
market of the Jacobins (so called from the Dominican
friars). The poultry andgame market has replaced
the Augustine monks. Ine market of St. Martin,
built on pai*t of the garden of the Benedictine abbey
of St Martin. The market of the Blancs Manteaux,
old Rue du Temple. The market of the Carme^
where the Carmehte monks were established. The
market of St, Joseph, Rue Montmartre, has replaced
the church dedicated to that saint. The convents of
the PetitS'Pires, that of the nuns of Panthemont,
that of the Minimes, and some others, have been con-
verted into useful and commodious barracks. The
Seminary of. St, Suipice has been pylled down to

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Ifilt HISTOftT Of PARIS.

make room for a fine square, ornamented wiHi a
fountain ; and to display a full view of the chureh.
of St. Sulpice, undoubtedly one of the finest
monuments of architecture in Paris. The eminently
useful quays which border the island Notre-Dame^
or la Citcy have replaced filthy, unhealthy build-
ings of ^very description. The magnificent New
Exchange is erected on the garden which belonged
to the nuns that were, called FiUes St, Thoma9,
The famous Polytechnic school occupies the man-
sion, considerably enlarged, of the College of Na-
varre, a celebrated school of divinity. The National
Institute is installed under the dome of the church
of the college Mazarine. The coUege of Charle*
magne was formerly the college of the Jesuits ; a
part of the buildings has been appropriated for the
city library. The institution for tiie deaf and dumb
replaces the ancient ecclesiastical seminary of St.
Maghire. The healthy, spacious hospital for in**
curables, in the Faubourg St. Martin, was formerly
a convent of mendicant friars ; and the Abbaie of Si,
Mfxrtinis now the useM and splendid Conservatoire
des Arts,

It would be. endless to enumerate the streets that
have so much contributed to the embellishment and
salubrity of Paris, at the expense of reli^dus esta«
blishments that have been destroyed ; it will be suffi-
cient to instance the Rue de la Paix^ the Rue du
Rivoli, that of CasOgUone, those of Mont-Thabor^
Duphot, Richepanse, the continuation of the Rue
Neuve du Luxembourg to the Tuilmes, the Rue de
Pont de Lodi, &c. The beautiful and immense Wine
Mart (la Halle aux Vins) could not have been erected,
if several religious estabhshments had not been sup-
pressed. A great number of usefiil manufactones
are seated in th« former mansions of monks and nuns \

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SITUATION oy MKI8. 12$

§» htttat&ee, fhtiaB of M. Lmtnr, ofM. PelHef*, &c. ;
those of the Female Cordeliers, the English Bene^
^tinesy les Bons Hoinmee, &c. &c., are likewise
become seats of useM industry.

To leave the church :— the ground on which the
odious Bastille stood, has been transformed into a
beMitifial Boulevard (the Boulevard Bourdon) » The
fimious canal De TOurcq will end here ; and, pro*
bai% few, very few, will regret this metamorphosis
of the Bastille.

Since the Bourbons have re^assumed the throne of
France, orders have been gjyen for the continuation
of various improvements. The abattoirs constructed
during the reign of Napoleon have been opened ; the
statue of Henry lY. has resumed its station on the
Pont Neuf ; a statue of Louis XIV. has been erected
in the Place des Victoires ; the New Exchange has
been completed; various churches have been re-
paired ; and several convents re-established.

The erection of a new quartier, intended to be
called Modem Athens, was commenced at Paris in
1823, between the Champs Elys^es and Chaillot. It
is neatly built, and is adorned with a fountain. Ano-
ther quartier also called Petit Londres, or Quartier
Poissonni^re, has also been constructed on the
Enclos de St Lazare ; in short, Pairis is rapidly
imiproving in the numb^ as well as the sfyle of its
buildings.

Paris is intersected by the river Seine. This river
is not to be compared with the Thames for ei^anse,
and, where it is not confined by the quays, it fre-
quently presents, on either side, a wide embankment
of mud. It here forms two small islaiuls, denomi-
nated Isle St. Louis (the Island of St. Louis), and
Isle Noire Dame (Island of our Lady)» The former
is the ancient eity, and derives its name from a build-
ing wherein the kings of the first dynasty resided^

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124 pjiisBirr.STATB

and which was afterwards appropriated to the reeepi-
tion of the parliament.

The quarter denominated the Ville is situated tm
tiie norm, the universityis on the south, and the city
stands in the centre. Ttie extent of Paiis along the
river is about four miles and a half ; its breadth from
the Barrier St. Denis to the Barrier St. Jacques, about
three miles and a half. The new walls enclose a very
considerable space of ground, which is uninhabitea,
and eVen under tillage ; hence the real extent of the
city is very different from its apparent magnitude.

Throughout the ancient part, and in the centre, of
Paris, the streets are narrow, dark, and dir^. Few
of them have pavements for the accommodation of
foot-passengers ; and the pitehin^ of the streets is
composed of uneven stones, on which it is extremdy
. unpleasant to walk, particulariy in wet weather.

The coachmen have no established rule by which
they drive on the right or left of the road, but they
cross and jostle one another without ceremony. They
drive dose to the very do(n*s of the houses, and either
cover the foot-passenger with mud, or endanger his
limbs or his life. The Paris Jehu has not ihe slight-
est re^ffd for the comfort or safety of the pedestnaii ;
he gives hhn little notice, although his hcnrsesare
close upon him, and ready to trample him down ;
yet the accidente which occur from this infamous
practice are not so num«X)us as might be expected..
Were it not for a few lai^ge stones which project
from some of the houses, and the receding door-
ways of others, the disasters of the streets wmiM
form a more conspicuous item than they now do in
the bills of mortality.

On account of the irregular and confused maamar
of driving through the streets of Peris, it is incon-
venient, and even dangerous, to appear in them (m
horseback. The trav^er wiJl, therefore, have no

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tamtation to take his Boeephalud to the OoBtm«it ;
or should he be determined to sport his charger in
Paris, his rides will be confined to the Boulevards,
the Champs Elysees, the wood of Boulogne, and the
banks of the Seine. For the same reason, the gig
and cunide should be le£t in England.

The inconvenience and danger of traversing the
•treets of Paris, together with the comparative po-
verty of the higher classes in France, will account for
the small number of gentlemen's carriages that are
seen in the French metropolis. Fiacres and cabriokta
roll along in abimdance ; but the ^lendid equipagea
whidi crowd the British capitis are thinly ^cattcml
in the streets of Paris.

The pedestrian is not only exposed to continual
danger from the carriages, but tlie air and sun being
alfl^st completely excluded by the height of the
houses, and there b^ng few subterranean drains, a
stream of black mire constantly runs through many
of file streets ; and they are aa wet and dirfy in the
middle of summery the streets of the British «aetro^
poHs are in the depth of winter.

TMs stream in the centre of the road often becomes
a rapid torrent. It requires no inconsiderable agility
to leap across it, and me driv^ of the cabriolet de-
lights in plentifully spattering its black and disgust*
ing contents <m the unfortunate pedestrian. In dirty
wearier it is absolutely necessary for the stranger,
and ev^ for the native, to avail himself of a fiacre
or cabriolet to travorse the more crowded and un-'
l^easant streets.

Ihe houses, which are generally constructed of
tfUaie, are six or seven stories hi^ Many of tiiem,
partimilaiiy the larger ones, which are usually called
hotds, are built in a peculiar fonn. They do not
present a simple front to the street, but the side of
fne ismnfiMewi&gi the k)wer imdowf of whi^ being

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ISd PRBSBKT SYJkTB

stroi^ly bamcdded with iron, giTemore tbe appear-
ance of a prison than a private dwelling.

The entrance is frequently by a massive gate, or
p<n-te-cochere ; and although this is in the wall of
the house, it admits not to the interior of the dwell-
ing, but to a spacious court-yard, surrounded witii
bmldings.

By the side of the gateway is frequently a heap of
dirt and iilth, which has been thrown in the moniing
from the different apartments of the hotel, and which
the scavenger has not yet removed. It is piled
against the columns that support the arch of the
gateway, or sometimes tiireatens to impede the en-
trance to the court

Attached to this gate is a porter, who demands io
which of the numerous inhabitants of the coinrt the
visit is intended ; for, not unfrequently , seven or eight
families occupy th« different apartments and sub*
divisions of the enormous edi^e.

The motley collection of inmates is ^ peculiar
feature of the French metropolis.. The first floor is
probably occupied by one of the ancient noblessie,
or by a chevalier who can trace his descent from the
first dynasty of the monarchs of France. He per-
haps pays SOOL per annum for the rent of his snare
of the edifice. Above him are tenants possessed of
different gradations of fashion or opulence, to the
sixtji or seventh floor, which are inhabited by the
milkman, the cobler, or the scavenger, and who onfy
pay a rent of ten pounds. The whole tif this ill-as-
sorted community use the same magnificent staircase^
decorated by marble coiumns, enndied with beauti-
ful bas-reliefs, and embrowned by the collected fil&
of a hundred dirty feet. OccasionaHy the conuanon
staircase is swq)t by the porter, but in some hotels
it is suffered to remam in a horribly disgusting stated
The cleansing of it bemg the 4u^of .no particulitr

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oypAUft* 127

floor, it is neji^lected by all^ and many months pass
without its beini^ profaned by mop or broom. In no
other city but Paris would the access to the most
degant and splendid apartments lie through aa
ayenue, which the gentlemen are sometimes com*
pelled to traverse on tip-toe, and-in which the ladies
are constrained to elevate their petticoats quite as
high as decency will allow.

One proof of a total want of taste, or rather of a
sense of propriety, in the French, should not be foiw
gotten. When an hotel (a large house) is inhabited
by one opulent or noble family only, it is not unusual
to make the'upper story Uie receptacle for the hay and
provender of the horses. A crane, which caabs
protruded at pleasure, is usually placed within one
. of the upper windows ; and I have frequently seen
the trusses of hay, and the sacks of corn, slowly
drawn up to the top of the superb residence of a
duke or a prince.

The enormous hei^t to which many of the houses
tower, the massive thickness of the walls, the em-
battled and turretted appearance of the chimneys at
the extremity of each building, and the singular imr*
rowness of the streets, give to many parts of Paris,a
wild and gloomy air, wmch makes a strong imj^res*
sion on tl^ mind of the stranger.

The lamps are suspended by cords across the mid-
dle of the street, and afPord iimnitely better illumina-
tion than the dim and quivering l^hts, which, yn^
yious to the introduction of gas, difi%tBredUieBntish
metropolis, and onfy served to ren&r the darkness
visible. A great number of caf^s and shops are now
lighted with gas, the use of which is becoming general.

The travella: will be much disappointed by the
appearance of the shops in Paris. In the Palais
K<^al, the diminutive oouHquea, under the passas,
praant a briffiaot and saucing spectacle ; but in mo«t

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of the street nothing oan be more unpromiskig than
the outside show of the largest and best-frequented
shops. No projecting windows admit of a tasteful
display of goods. Frequently the onfy indication of
a shop is a sini, painted with considerable elegance,
while the li^ht ean scarcely penetrate through the
windows, thickly incrusted with mud, plentifully
spattered from the.^icr^, which, driving close to the
walls, threaten the smallest projection with ineTitable
destruction.

The leading. street in Paris, on a par with the
Strand and Fleet-street in London, is the Bue St.
Honors, which is joined to the Bue 8t Antoine, form-
ing a complete line from east to west ; while from
north to south is Bue 8L Martin^ which conducts to
the Seine at the Pont Noire Dame, and on the op. .
posite bank is continued by the Bue St, Jacqueei
forming one uninteiriq[)ted course through the whole
city. On a parallel with these two hut-mentioned
streets is the Bue St. Denis, which leads to the Pont
au Change, and on the other side of which is a con-
tinuation by Bue de la Harpe and Bue dEt^.

The names of the streets are written in lar^ cha-t
meters at the beginning and end of each, with this
peenMarity, which will often be a useful ^^uide to the
stranger :— the names of the streets which are pa*
rallel with the course of the Seine are painted in red
letters ; those which are perpendicular to the Seine
are black.

The numbering of the houses is likewise peculiar
The numbers begm with thatpart of the street whidi
is nearest to the Seme ; or from the east, when the
street is paraUel with the river. The even numbers
are on the right side, and the odd numbers on the
left skie of the street In the paralld streets, the
numbers of the houses are painted red ; in those which
are popendUsular, the ookmr is black. Sothatwhea

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' OP fX%U. IM

the passenger in a parallel street perceives the red
numbers increase, he may be sure that he is walking
from east to west ; and when in a perpendicular street
he sees the black numbers increase, he will know
tiiat he is going from the Seine.

The most airy and healthfiil situations are near the
walls of the city, the streets being wider, and the
houses not huddled together as in the centre of Paris.
The Faubourg (by which the traveller is not to un-
derstand the suburbs, or the streets without the walls,
but the space enclosed between the Boulevards and
tiie new wall) are in general very thinly inhabited,
and some of tiiem are idmost deserted.

The number of streets is about 1,100: there are
26,801 houses. — ^The population in a recast year
amounted to 713,966.— There were 22,137 deaths,
and 23,263 births, m Paris. Of the latter 11,871
were males, and 11,392 females. In the same
year there were 376 suicides — 250 men and 126
women.

As «,11 the public structures will be described in this
Guide, it would be superfluous to enumerate them
xmder the present head. I shall therefore close this
brief account by acquainting the traveller, that a com-
plete prospect of this extensive capital may be ob-
tained from various points. That which is nearest the
city is tiie hill of Montmartre, where, the battle took
place, previous to the triumphal enfay of the allied
troops into Paris in 1814, and from which the whole
expanse of the metropolis presents itself to the view.
The peculiar transparency of the atmosphere is per-
fectly new to the jSngUsnman, and gives to the dis*
tant and minute objects a distinctness which surprises
him. The other situations, affording similar pros-
pects, are Mount Calvary — Pere la Chaise — the
towers of Notre Dame — ^the Pavilion in the Garden
of Plants—the Column in the Place Vendome— the
Observatory^and the pleasure-housci Bellevue,

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180 STATISTIOAXi AflilOtJNT

One of the best views in Paris, perhaps the noblest*
is that from the Po»*i?oya/,. whence the traveller
sees on Ms left the magnificent colonnade of the Tuil-
eries and the Louvre stretching its immense length
along the banks of the Seine. On his right is a
' lu^le quay» borda?ed by elegant houses, with the
Palais des Arts and the Hotel des Monnaiss at an-
ineonsideralde distance. Behind these, the ground
nses steeply, and the houses of the Faubourg St^
Oermain present a variety of curious and picturesque
groups. The dome of the Pantheon nobly towers
above them. In front is the Pont-des-Arts, the Pont-
Neuf, the river diveiving into two branches, lined,
with noble qua}rs, and the venerable towers of Notre
JDame rising from the bosom of the Seine.

Persons who wish to see a more detafled history
of Paris, may consult the works of St. Foix and
Delaure.

StaUiiical Account of the City of Patis and the departs
unent of the Seines from tables, drawn up and collected
by order of CoufU Chabrol, the Prefect of the Depart*
ment,

TEMPER4TURB.

Thb temperature of Paris may be best inferred from the
observations made at the Observatory at' Paris during^
fiineteen years; namely, from 1808 to 1891, with the
thermometer, seveml times every day* According to
thtse, it appears that the maximum of that tempemture
agrees invariably with the hours of two or three o'clock
in the afternoon; the minimum with sunrise. Const*
dered with reference to the year, the maximum takei
place between the 10th and the 29th of July, and rises
to 19^ 84 centigrades; the minimum takes place between
the 8d and 22d of January, and falls to 1° 77 centigrades
below 0. The prevailing wind at Paris is S. W. It is not
'^ing, therefore, that the miny and cloudy days are

jitized by Google-

SO num«rmif every year. They amount to 164^ to 18S,

and sometimes even to 229,

WATSR— FOl)NTAIN8.

The Bi^re feeds 102 factories or other establishments^
and in Paris alone^ 90; Ihe most celebrated is that to
which the brothers Gobelins gave their name. A great
number of the inhabitants of Paris are far from suspect*
ing the existence of this multitude of factories, paper-
mills, forges, corn-mills, silk-mills, breweries, distilleries,
&c., maintained in Paris by this current, which is little
known except by those who live on its banks.

The greater part of the inhabitants of the country
communes are obliged to drink well-water, in general
not very wholesome ; or spring water of very middling
quality.

Every day the height of the Seine is carefully measured
at the Pont de la Tournelle. Whenever it has arrived at
5 metres above zero, the Port-au-bled and the Champs*
Elysees have been inundated.

Paris contains 65 fountains, and 124 inclosed fountains.
When the canal of I'Ourcq is finished, there will be six
times the quantity of water necessary for the consump-
tion of the city. It is to be regretted that the very useful
establishment of the Quai des C^lestlns, for purified
water, does not yet furnish more than a hundredth part
of the actual consumption. Chemical experiments snow
that the water of I'Ourcq holds the middle station, in
respect to purity, between the water of the Seine and that
of Arcueil. The springs of Belleville, of Saint Gervais,
and of Menil-Montant, are much more impregnated with
earths and salts.

The benefit which navigation has conferred within a
few years on the commerce of this great city is very
important. It would be superfluous to enumerate the
boats of all kinds employed in the navigation of the
higher and the lower Seine, the quantity of goods they
contain, &c. The number which, arrived in Paris in
1821, bytheAube and the Yonne, were 143.1, without
reckoning Hhe rafts. Next to the higher Seine, the
canals furnish the greatest number of trading boats 5 and

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132 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT

after them the Yonne and the Mame. When the grand
project of forming canals throughout France shall be
completed, the navigation ot the Seine will have the
advantage of 528 additional leagues of (hat mode of water
conveyance ; and that river wOl be united to the Oise^
the Ourcq, the Aine^ and the lower Loire.

The highest point in the department of the Seine is
Mont-Val^rien. The most elevated streets in Paris are
the Rue d'Enfer, and the Rue de I'Estrapade. Paris U,
on the average, 59 metres above the level of the sea.
The lowest ground in it is the Champs-Elysees, which
is subject to be covered by the inundation of the Seine. .

POPULATION.

According to the experience of a century and a half,
the months in which the greatest mortality prevails in
Paris are March and April ; and the least, August and
July. The difference between the two extremes is about
five-twelfths of the whole. The first of January is the
mean term ; and the months of December and June are >
equal in mortality.

The greatest number of children are bom in March
and Januarys the smallest in June, November, and De-
cember. The greatest number of marriages take place
in May ; the smallest in March and January.

The number of boys bom has always been greater than
that of girls. The proportion for the last seventy-seven
years (befote which the distinction of sex was not
marked in the registers of birth) has been 795,356 to
763,986; nearly 26 to 25; or more accurately, 1041 to
1000. These numbers, it is true, include the foundlings',
among whom, no doubt, are reckoned fewer male chil-
dren than are born in reality. With reference to this
circumstance, the proportion may be considered as 22 to
2 1 . Similar pbservations have been made at London and
at Naples. In the former, the proportion has been
found to be 19 'to 18; in the latter 22 to 21. This phe-
nomenon, observable in Europe, does not exist in the
East, at least not generally. It even appears that in

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0* PABI8. . 138

Egypt^ in Nubia, and in the island of Ceylon, the number
of girls born exceeds that of boys.

It appears that since the great political commotion of
1 780 the population of Paris has mcreased in the propor-
tion of about 212 to 200, that there have been con-
stantly arriving (especially since the Revolution) a num-
ber of foreigners in that capital, who have died there ;
that within thirty years the number of marriages has in-
creased about a sixteenth; and that the number of
foundlings has diminished more than a fourth. On the
other hand, it appears that the number of natural chil-
dren has been increasing since 1806 ; before which time
there. are no certain accounts, as natural children and
legitimate children were confounded in the registers.
The number of natoral children acknowledged by their
parents, was in 1819 and 1830, about 91 in 54 j in 1891,
21 in 71, being almost two-fifths less.

CHARITIES.

The number of aids afforded by the charitable instifai-
ti^nswere, in 1819, 85,150 i in 1 890, 86,870 j that of ad-
mission into hospitals and asylums (reckoning the found-
lings) in 1819, 77,513; in 1820, 80/)Sl. The average
deaths in the hospitals and. asylums were about 1 in 7 ;
the average expense for every individual received into
diem, from 110 to 193 francs in a year. The number
of indigent females is more than half as large again aa
that of indigent males.

With respect to the loans granted on security by the
Mont-de-Pi^te, it is remarkable, that in the six years
from 1816 to 1821, pledges were invariably deposited for
nearly the same sum, of 18 millions of francs; the
greatest difference between any of those years not ex-
ceeding 600,000 francs ; while the sum paid for the re-
demption of pledges averaged only 13,811,277 francs.
The average of the renewals of these loans is about four
millions annually. The average value of each deposit is
in plate and jewels, from 39 to 48 francs; in linen and
clothes from 6 francs 20 centimes to 9 francs 37 centimes.
N

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ISA STATI8<nOiIi ACM30UNT

9BBIk>NS 0ROWKBI>.

The number of persons dro\?ned in Paris in 1819 was
271 ; in 1820, 270 j in 1821, 810. About a fourth pf
these various numbers were taken out of the water alive.
Nearly half the drowned persons drowned themselves.

BURIALS.

As compared with London, one circnmstance would
lead ufl to suppose the population of Paris miserably
poor. In Paris, burials are allotted to privileg^ed under*
takers, who are bound to pay certain taxes ; and the rites
of inhumation being considered expensive *, a vast pro*
portion of persons are buried by certificates of indi«
gence ! In an averaged statement of the burials from
1881 to 1823, it appears, that of persons who died in their
own houses, scarcely on&«fourth were buried at the ex**
pense of their family.

FIBE8.

In the 97 years which preceded 1821 there were 15,821
fires in Paris, or on the average 585 in every year. It
it difficult t8 conceive how so many of these fatal aceh
dents can occur. As there /ire 26,801 houses in Pant,
and 224,922 ftimilies, it follows that in every 10,000
houses there have been 217 fires annually, and 86 'm
every 10,000 fomilies. In this number the fires of
chimneys are included.

coMSUMrriON.

In 1821 there were consumed in Paris 818,066 hecto-
litres of wine, and 42,784 of brandy; — 571^565 head of
oxen, cows, calves, hogs, and sheep; 867,984 francs-
worth of oysters, and 12 millions francs-worth of beer
and eggs;' 64,018,996 kilogrammes of salt; 758,299 of
tobacco ; more than 20 millions trusses of hay and strew ;
above a million of stores of wood; and two millions of
hcptolitres of charcoal. It appears that the consumption

* The cliarffe of the lowest class does pot seem expensive to SB
Xaffi8lunsii-4l frmw, or 1(. I8f ., sfevy ttoff tsoloAed.

Digitized by Google •

^ FARM. VB&

of coUi increaflM jfeaHy. lo 1$91| it amou&ted to.
563^63 hectolitres. Its employment in the preparation,
of gas, and in a great many machines and factories, will
increase the consumption still morej and it is to bo
feared that the consumption, becoming more rapid than
the importation of this article, so valuable to industry
and the arts^ its price will bocomo so much enhanced as
at least to retard the execution of the various projects re-
lating to inland navigation.

EiK^h person in Paris, including all ages, consumes on
the average a hectolitre and a quarter of wine, i. e, about
185 bottl^ ycariy, and, besides this» a great quantity ia
consumed outside the barriers, whei« tipplers escape the
iocal tax (octrffi)*

The consamption of wine is much augmented sinco
1B91, which is chiefly to be ascribed to the abundant vint-.
agei- of late yearn. The consumption of beer seems to.
have declined, but in a smaller degroe than the other haa
increased.

The consumption of brandy has increased even mqre
rapidly than the consumption of wine, and almost in the
mtio of one quarter. Comparing the two yean of 1821
and 1824, in the former it was 42,784 hecterlitxes, in the
latter 53,8ld-»about 14 bottles a year for each individual.

In regard to animai food, Paris consumed in 1824,
Te,687 oxen, 76,811 cahres, 888,807 sheep, and 89,110
pigs, without reckoning the pork brought in the shape
of sausages, &c. which amounted in 1884 to 1^897,459
kilogrammes.

The increase is most considerable in the consumption
of mutton. In 1 822, the number of sheep killed was only
819,242. In 1824, also, 18,874 more heads of cattle fell
than in 1820. To this consumption of eatables are to be
added 4^01 8,608 ftancs-worth of sea^fish, 1,018,510 francs
of oysters, 688,082 francs of fresh-water fish, 8,70 1,5 It)
tmtiCn of fowl and game ; and lastly, butter to the value of
upwards of nine millions of francs, and eggs to more than
a quarter of a million. A very large increase is to be
remarked in the consumption of wax and wax-candles;
in 1820 it was only 72,287 kilogrammes, in 1824 it rose
to 868,988 kilogramnie». This tubfttitarion of wax for

Digitized by Google

136 STATISTieAL ACeOVKT

HBXlovf caiiilles is the sure indieation of a certaia' degree
of opulence.

The consumption of lime and plaster, and of bricks
and tiles, has almost doubled in the last five or six years.
This will not surprise those who consider that about a
thousand houses are built annually ; so that the aspect
of Paris is changing with astdnishing rapidity.
' The average annual exjpense for bread for every in*
habitant of Paris, is about 58 francs 64 ceatimes; of
every family, 171 francs 81 centimes. The average an-
nual value of cattle sold, during the last ten years, in
the markets of Sceaux, Paris, and Poissy, has been above
80 miliions of francs in oxen; above 12 millions in
cows; f.ve millions and a quarter in calves; and near
nine millions in sheep. The average price of the first
of the above classes of animals has been 301 francs 90
centimes; of the second, 179 francs 9 centimes; of the
third, 67 francs 11 centimes; and of the last, 81 francs
21 centimes.

INDUSTRY AND COMMERCE.

In 1820, the total amount of the value of the exports
at the Custom House in Paris, was 47,714,284 francs;
being above a million less than in the preceding year.
Jn this account, silk and woollen stuffs and shawls are
estimated at eight miUions of francs; the fashions,clotht>
merceries, silk ribands, and other silk articles, and
feathers, at 10 millions; skins at two millions and a half;
clocks and watches at one million and a quarter; gold
ware, jewellery, false pearls and diamonds, at near five
millions; furniture and toys at one million; glass at
nearly one million ; cambrics and lawns at one niillion ;
books at two millions and a half, &c. In 1821, the value
of the exports diminished nearly two millions.

Paris exports above half the merceries, furniture,
fieishions, prints, &c. which are sent out of France; and
three-fourths of the clocks and watches, instruments,
medicines, wrought metals, gold ware, objects of art,
maps, prints, music, pottery, chemical productions, and
silk febrics. This will give an idea of the extent of its
^trade,8nd the importance of its ipclustry. In ^hea^ lo-

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O? FA«I«. 1ST

Mfmm,^i» k^ of Paria is conpleWly cbaogod wittiiB

the last thirty years. The spirit of commerce is so prer
valent in Paris, that while the duties ob foods expend
from the whole kingdom have increased only tenft>ld
from the year 1819 to the year 1821, the saifte duties ott
goods exported from Paris alone, have increased a hun-
dred-fold in the same space of time. These duties are
principally on refined sugar, and on cotton and woollen
goods. Paris and its suburbs contain 85 8ugar-hoaia%
the net profits of which are estimated at l,98l/)52 f cases.
The charcoal and coals employed in these establishmentf
cost annually near a million of francs^ which sufficiently
explains the scarcity of those articles*

8BOPB.

Paris contains 9,761 shops for the sale of provisions,
aot including 5,000 traders in the halls and in the streets.
The venders of wine alone are 9,333 in number; while
there are but 560 bakers, 355 butchers, 927 eating-
houses, and 787 coffee-houses. Thus it appears that
the number of taverns is above four times that of bake-
houses, and above six times that of butchers' shops. It
ought to be observed, however, that the last must not
rxceed a cartain number.

MA-NUFACTTIRES.

From the year 1810 to the year 1891, the namber of
•ilk manufactories increased from 58 to 67. In 1818,
9,f70,000 pair of stockings were nMttuftictured, the e«r-
fent pric« of which, at that thne, was 8 francs a pair 5
mtA 6,818,000 yards of silk, the price of which was 9
f^ncs a yard. At present, the employment of machinery
has diminished those prices a tiiiid. It is cakulated that
1,560 wotk-people, of both sexes and of all ages, are
«mpldyed in these mannfttctories. Prom 7 to 8,000 are
employed in the manufacture of gold aad silver aHicles.
In the year 1819, there were stamped in France, 6 miU
lionsof gold and silver articlea, representing a value of
64 millioiw «f francs. It is ealenlated that the ^Id
iMmftt^tttMd m Vmm, in 1W0, •^f^^^ *^«*3^

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1 8S STATISTICAL ACCOUNT

eigbt 1i«Mdf«^fa8 of the gold annually t>TO«ght intoC«»
Tope«

One year with another^ 120,000 watches and 15,000
clocks are sold in Paris, for about 20 millions of francs ;
the net profit on which Is about 3 millions and a half. -

Every year, from S5,000 to 40,000 horses or mules
are brought to market. The average price of a horse is
^65 francs 62 centimes. There arc in Paris 12,800 horses
belonging to individuals, and 8,500 to military bodies.

PRINT I NG-^B00K£L

680 presses are actively employed in Paris, and from
S to 4000 printers. It is estimated that of every hundred
works published, 68 relate to the belles-lettres, history,
or politics; 20 to the sciences and the arts; and 12 to
theology. and jurisprudence. The average price of a
thousand copies of a printed sheet, paper included, is
62 francs. The annual consumption of paper is 8S6/)00
reams.

According to calculations of- the sales of personal ef^*
feels which took place in Paris, for the ten years pre-
ceding 1823, it appears, 1st, That the average annual
amount of sales, was 8,82 1 ,1 58 Cranes. 2ndly, That four-
tenths of those sales were voluntary; being nearly the
same number as that of sales after decease. The retl
have taken place at Mont-de-Pi^t6 ; by the authority of
law, or from want of lawful heirs. 9rdly, That bo{il||i^
and objects of art, (pictures, prints, bronzes, &c.) con*
Btituted two-fiAeenths of the things sold ; without speak*
ing of Mont-de-Pi^t^ where many of them were dis-
posed of. The rest consisted, seven-tenths of furniture*
three hundredths of stock in trade, &c. 4thly, That the
loss incurred in re-selling such articles not impaired^
comes to a third of the purchase-money. 5thly,That the
mnouQt of a moderate set of furniture is generally eqiii«-
jr«l?^ tp ope yeai's income of itf posfeMorj ei^luftlvfiiy

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y OV PASS* 13d

of lafge coUectio&8 of booki^ aiid:of niMlMt «>f •r.ieiai
and art.

DUTIES — STAMPS.

The political economists have long reouired the re-
mission of the duty on transfers, and all kinds of deeds*
in order to multiply transactions and the circulation of
things of value; out it may be easily believed that as
long as the existing duties produce in six years the sum
of 72,185,637 francs, as they did from 1815 to 1820, that
is to say, above 12 millions a year, the Treasury will
abate noUiing. Will it be credited, that durins^ those
six years, the number of deeds registered and of duties
collected, amounted nearly to 4 millions ; that is, to
above 2,100 a day ! What motion, what activity, does
not this immense quantity of business indicate !

The amount of the cfebts inscribed in the office for
Mortgages, and. the produce of the sal^s, are^ one year
with another, above 133 millions.

On the average, the Stamps on articles of trade pro*
dace annually about 1,200,000 francs; on white paper»
1,800,000 francs; on journals, music, bills, advertise-
ments, passports, &c. a million and a half. From 1815
to 1820 the number of passports fell off from 40,000 to
30>000. The journals, on the contrary, produced lialf as
9iach again ; and the advertisements nearly double.

Indirect Taxes produce on the average above 19 mil-
lions a-year. In 1821 the produce was half as much
again as. in 1816 and in 1817. Of that sum the taxes on
liquors amount to 8 millions and a half, on oil to 1 niil-
Hop, on tobacco to 5 millions and a quarter, on public
carriages to 1,400>000 francs. Cards alone produce
127,000 francs.

Among the games of chance, the' Lottery ought to be
mentioned ; thai gulf which is continually devouring the
substance of the people. In the & years which elapsed
from 1816 to 1820, the players at this game lost 32,1 94,000
firancs; in other words, t|;^fortunes of 4. or 5,000 families*
. T^e Post-office coljects ftfinu^Uy, in Farjs alone, about

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140 STATISTICAL ACCOUNT

4 nilltoliB and a garter. The maximmn of Hue ceeeiiyta

is always in January, and the minimum in September*
Every day produces, one with another, 1^300 francs.
38,000 letters (of which 10,000 are for the little post),
and S5,000 periodical sheets and prospectuses, are thrown
into the box daily.

The direct Taxes, according to a calculation made of
ihe 14 years anterior to 1822, amounted in 1815 to about
99 millions a-year. At present they amount to 28 miN
lions. Patents have risen Arom 4 millions to 5 ; doors
and windows from 1,900,000 francs to 3 millions (a cir**
cumstance which has resulted from the numerous houses
built within the last seven years); the land-tax from 11
millions and a half, to nearly 14 (resulting from the
same cause^ but capable of being traced fbrther back).

HOUiBI.

It is also ascertained, first, that there are reckoned in
Paris 26,801 houses, and 920,2S8 doors and windows^ or
34 and i to each house; secondly, that in 15 years the
dumber of buildings had increased by a fortieth; thirdly^
that the average duration of a house in Paris, a duration
of course afifected by circumstances, is 810 years and a
half.

If Paris attracts to itself the greater portion of the
commerce of France, it also furnishes very considerable
sums to the state. A tenth of the sum paid by the whole
of France to the Treasury is contributed by Paris ; viz.
one* year with another, 81,425,366 francs. Of this sum
the crown lands furnish 20 hundredths; the customs 6;
the indirect taxes 24; the post 5; the lottery 8; the
direct taxes S4 ; and games 7. Every inhabitant of Paris,
one with another^ pays 114 francs 2 centimes; while a
Frenchman in general pays only 27 francs 61 centimes.'
A resident in Paris, therefore, pays four times as much
to the state as a resident elsewhere.

DIUOBNCfiS, JOURNBTa^ &C.

There go put of Paris, every week, 178 of the large
Royal diligences; most of them make several journeys,
and offer, altogether, accommodatioD for 14,757 pass*

Digitized by Google

or PABis. HI

engera. Add to t)iete> 906 commeQ diK^enoef, which
make a distaot journey^ viz. beyond the departmeota of the
Seiae and Seine-et-Oiie, and 249 petty diligences^ or
yehicles which go only short stages.

The number of journeys made beyond the departments
just named is 1^5 14^292 per annum, or 89-l00th8 of the
population of the department. To these must be added,
8^395 places in the malle-poste, about 10,000 post-chaises,
and nearly 50,000 persons conveyed by the coaches from
the department of the Haute-Seine. The lesnlt gives
neatly two journeys a-year for every inhabitant of the
department, of whatever a§e, and both sexes.

The number of English travellers was, in 1816, 15,51?;
in 1830, 20,184; on an average it is, 17,676. . In. 1824,
52,400 passports were delivered at Paris; 53,661 were
visis to leave it.

CHARACTER AND MANNERS

or TRS

PARISIANS.

It win now be requisite to gire the traveller some
insight into the character and manners of a people,
whose internal economy, during an usurpation ot so
many years, was sedulously kept from me observa-
tion of strangers.

The inhabitants of every great city may be divided
into three classes, of whom the character and man-
ners are altogether dissimilar; the noblesse, the
middle ranks, and the common people.

The manners and habits of the first, every where
artificial, have been materially affected by the various
scenes of the Revd^tipn, althougb th^ -cannot at

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14i CHARAOTim Hm MAIMERS

present be slid to hat« adq[>ted any miffked fettore*
It may, however, be affirmed, that the chai*aeter of
the noblesse has materially improved. The strange^
vicissitudes of the last thirty years have sobered down '
much of tiiieir peculiar and disgusting levity. The
character and habits of the present reigning family
have given a serious, but not an unpleasing, cast
to the natural cheer^ilness and buoyancy of spirits
of the noblesse. The necessity of the times has
j^ewise tau^t ihma affiibility, condeso^ision, and
an apparent mtarest in the welrare of the middle and
lower classes. It cannot, however, bed^ued, that
disappointment at not r^aining the patrimony and
feudal rights of their ancestors, has given to some of
them a severe and morose air, curiously contrasted
with the politesse and grimace which are indigenous
to the French character.

The morals of the noblesse are likewise evidently
improved ; and the shameless exhibition of profligacy
wmch disgraced the rei^s of Louis XIV., Louis XV.,
the latter years of Loms XVI., and the whole of the
imperial usurpation, are now seldom witnessed.

The peculiarities of the middle tanks of society,
who will principally ofier themselves to the attention
of the traveller, with whom he will have most to do,
and to whom he must look for the true character of
a people, are easily described. The most prominent
feature in the character of the Parisian is a jpeouliar
politegse, which rarelv fails to please, though it is not
always exempt from nypocrisy. It must be acknow*
ledged, however* that the struige and horrible events
of revolutionary times have effected no inconsider*
aMe change in the manners of the Frenchman. The
traveller stillrecognises thefrivolou8,'good-humoured»
conceited people, whichformer tourists had described ;
but mingled with the politeness of the old regime. h«
observes much gloom and dissatisfiEUstioxi.

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Tfm wfts the aeoesMvy coAaequ^nee of th« poli<Qr
of tiie late goyemment. While the educatioii qf
youth vrtis n^lected, and public worship almost
alx^shed ; whue the young man, as soon a« he was
capable of bearing anns, was hunied from eir^
scene of domestic life, and immersed in tbe lipoid
tiousness and brutality of a camp, the effect on hit
character and his manners was easy to be fnreieen,
and deeply to be lamented. Most of the subaltern
and maiw of the superior offioors have risen from the
ranks. They had not the educaticm of gmtlmnm^
ihev have been accustomed only to scones of r^>ine
and violence ; in this short breathiiij^-time of peaces
they^ave scarcely associated with iSe virtuous part
of the softer sex ; th^ have not yet fonaed thcuie
connexions which polish the manners and amelioraite
the heart.

It is said that they look with some degree of sua*
picion on the English, and sometimes treat them wttii
mcivilihr. It was the policy of Buonaparte to foster
in the bosom of Frenchmen an implacable hostiility
towards England. Her gold, it was said, purchased
the hirelm^ armies whidi threatened to deluge
France with blood; her avarice crippled and <&-
stroyed the continental commerce ; and tfaongh the
French were indebted to her perseverance and to
her generosity for their dehverance fitnn intolerable
tlmddom, yet, while their freedom was efiboled, tiiear
national vanity was deeply wounded.

Every year, however, gradually sc^tens the aspeiir
ties of tliis too ^aithftil picture.

The tradesmen and marchants of Paris, who have
not been exposed to the banefiil influence yMdti I
have described, retain much of the ancient character.
They are still lively, good-humoured, and versatile ;
proud of themselves, and indulgent to others ; con*
tent with the amusraiient of the day^ with liAtle fbre**

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144 CHARACTXR AND MANHERS

Sight or retrospect ; pdite and attentive, desiroud' to
please, and generally pleasing.

The Parisian, though he has little idea of what
we term the comforts of the domestic fireside, does
not, at the close of the business of the day, quit his
faniily and resort to the coffee-house, or the club,
but with his wife and children, dressed in all their
little finery, he parades the Boulevards ; he visits
some of the numerous gardens, with which the me-
tropoUs aboimds ; he treats himself and them with
the cheap pleasures which these places afi^rd; and
usually closes the evening with either joining in the
dance, or gazing with delight on the gracefiu move-
ments of others. The dkeapness of provisions in
France, and an economy in dress and hving scarcely
known in England, enable him to make almost every
evening a season of festivity. It may be truly saia
drunkenness is nearly imkhown. A tumbler of le«
monade or orgeat is frequently the whole of the
Frenchman's debauch.

A passion for gaming lamentably pervades the
middle dasses, and those especially of an interme-
diate rank between the bourgeois and the noblesse.
It commenced its destructive ravages when religious
belief was weakened, and the public morals con-
taminated by the baneful writings of the French il-
luminati a short time before the Revolution. It
spread with recruited energy when the unprincipled
and contemptible Duke of Orleans converted his
palace into the sanctuaiy of every abomination ; and
its empire was fully established, when, under the
government of Buonaparte, the licentiousness of a
military life usurped tne place of domestic habits,
honest industry, and public and private virtue.

The spacious apartments of the Palais Royal are
daily crowded. Men and women promiscuously as-
semble, and enter into the dangeious business of the

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OF THE PAUISIAMS. 14S

gamingtable with all the energy of thehr national
character. Different rooms are suited to the finances
of every speculator. The mechanic who can only
stake a single franc, the hardly-earned produce of a
laborious day, is not excluded. The Palais Royal
may be* termed the spot where the demon of ^amblmg
holds his principal court; but in every district of
Paris, ana almost in every street, the unhaUowed,
but l^alized assemblies of his votaries abound.

It is said that the government of Buonaparte de-
rived the enormous sum of 600,000/. per annum
from the licenses of the gaming-houses; and the
present government does not disdain to avail itself
of Hiis disgraceful and pernicious revenue.
. Most of the public ts^les are devoted to games of
chance, but at those of skill the French are adepts.
To render themselves completely masters of every
point of finesse, every nicety of calculation, every
effect of manual dexterity, they employ an energy
and an industry, which, devoted to more honourable
purposes, would be highly creditable. The traveller
should be aware of this, or he will soon find, to his
cost, that he is no match for the Parisian, even at
those games at which he deems himself most adroit.
He should likewise be aware of the seductions of that
most unnatural and dangerous character, the female
gambler. The beauty and fascination of woman are
too often in league with the proprietor of the gaming-
table ; and many a lovely face is clothed with smiles
to lure the heedless stranger to his destruction.

A fondness for public amusements is a principal
feature in the French character. It is not less
strange than true, that even the anarchy and blood-
shed, which disgraced the early stages of the Revo-
lution, were not sufficiently revolting to restrain this
love of diversion. At the close of every day that
had witnessed the guillotine performing its mur-
o

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146 CHABAOTXlt AKD afAjmERS

derous office, no less than thirty theatres, indepen-
dent of other places of amusement, were as uniformly
crowded as if the most perfect tranquillity had
reigned in the capital.

%e principal day of amusement is Sunday. After
he has neard mass in the morning, the best Catholic
gives himself up to enjoyment Music and dandng
are heard in eivery street, and the theatres are lite-
rally crowded. The commercial man too frequently
disregards the sanctity of the day : his shop and his
counting-house are open as usual, and he is as eager
to buy, and sell, and get gain, as on any common day.

Soon after the late king was first re-seated on the
throne of his ancestors, he published a decree, in
which he ordered the shops to be shut on Sunday.
Eeasonable and proper as was this injunction, it gave
peat offence, and materially contributed to alienate
me affections of the Parisians. The decree has been
revived, but it is far from being universally obqred,

A truly unique passion for dress and personal
decoration likewise distinguishes the Parisian, This,
indeed, from the natural versatihty of the French
character, appeared for a while suspended, during
the worst period of the Revolution. There was a
time when the remembrance of ancient manners,
forms, and decorations, appeared to be banished from
the mind of the Parisian. As much care was taken
to assume the frue costume of a sans-culotte as had
formerly been bestowed on the nonsensical eccentri*
cities of puppyism and foppery. This barbarous
taste was of short duration. With the domination of
Buonaparte returned much of the ancient frivolity of
garb and appearance. The sprucely-decorated petit*
mattre of former days is not now perhaps so often
seen ; but the English traveller will sometimes gaze
with astonishment at the gaudy and £uitastic fineiy
of the inhabitants of Paris,

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09 noei ^AftitUHS. 14>7

The veiy finery of the Paiisiaf s has genenll^f,
however, much of the strange mconsistency of their
characto*. The smartest beau seldom has the ap-
pearance of a gentleman. A loose shabby sm^out,
a worn-out hat, or a tattered shirt, often accompany
the most splendid habiliments.

Let not my reader hence imagine that I impute to
the French character that emptiness and mvolity
which some writers have attributed to it, and which
so many of my countrymen imagine must necessar^
belong to it. In works of erudition and genius,
France will not yield to any surrounding country.
Her improvements in chemistry have not been sm*-
passed. Some of her dramatic writers have been ex-
celled only by our immortal bard. Her painters and
sculptors occupy no inferior rank in tiie scale of
merit. But there is a srorightliness of disposition, a
buoyancy of spirits, and a happy adaptation of the
mind to circumstances, perfectly peciumr and cha-
racteristic.

The French have been accused of dishonesty in
their commercial transactions, and especially with
foreigners. If this be meant to apply to the princi-
pal merchants and baidcers of Pans, the charge is
utterly ^se. In IJie strictest integrity, in all their
dealings, and the nicest sense of honour, these gen-
tlemen are not mferior even to the merchants of
Britain.

If it be applied to the boutiques of the Palais
Royal, the charge is partly true and partly un-
founded. The tmdesman of the Palais Royal will
unblushingly demand considerabhr more than the
value of his commodities. He will omit no finesse,
he will spare no misrepresentation, to obtain his
price. Yet with this is mingled an honest principle,
which the tradesmen of all other countries would do
well to imitate. Should the traveller inadvertently

O 2

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148 C HAB ACTER AND MANNERS

leave his gloves, or even his purse, on the counter, a
messenger is immediately despatched after him, or ^e
articles are preserved with religious care until his
return. To the honesty and civility of the lower
classes, every traveller has borne ample and willing
testimony.

In our sketch of Parisian manners, the fair sex
must not be omitted. In France, more than in any
other coimtry, the empire of woman is apparently
established. The records of the nation demonstrate
that her fascinations, her virtues, or her foibles,
have influenced and governed almost every political
event. In private life she bears a prominent part in
every transaction, and universal homage is paid to
her charms. At every place of public entertamment
she presides. She sits enthroned in the cafS, and
more particularly ocgupies the attention of the visiters
than the most interesting or important news of the
day. Even in the baths, it is woman who must ad-
minister refreshment to the swimmers, although their
scanty covering is scarcely an apology for decency.
In the shop of the tradesman, uie female presents
herself to every customer, and superintends the whole
concern, while the husband lounges over the counter,
or amuses himself at the caf<§. In the name of the
wife every guest is invited, and to her discretion every
domestic arrangement is implicitly submitted.

It may, however, be doubted whether this apparent
supremacy is not gained at the expense of real power.
It is a compliment yielded by the overstrained po-
litesse of the Frenchman, but probably not the faith-
ful and undeviating homage of the heart.

When we penetrate into the recesses of private
life, we perceive that the female rules every where
but in her native empire, the heart of her husband.
She governs every thing with absolute sway except
his affections. In these it is said she often yields to

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6t IM JAUXgUKS. i4i

a happier and more powerftil rival; an^, to te-
tain the semblance of dominion, which she can no
longer exercise over her liege lord, she listens to the
protestations and vows of another suitor.

It is notorious that conjugal infidelity is too pre-
ralent in every class of society. The husband does
not attempt to conceal his attentions to another
female ; and the wife, even in the presence of her
husband, listens with complacence to the adulations
of her cicisbeo. If these arrangements are not
invariably criminal, they c nnot fail of being danger-
ous ; and they infallibly prove that the Frendi woman,
in grasping at unnatural dominion, has lost that
more honourable, that far happier and more despotic
sway, which she would otherwise have held over the
heart of man.

The influence of this unfortunate state of society is
too apparent. It gives to the character of the most
virtuous and accomplished woman a confidence not
suited to the English taste, and not favourable to do-
mestic felicity ; and, to females of inferior minds and
laxer principles, it imparts a total want of delicacy,
at which tiie stranger will often wonder. The young
tmmarried ladies in France are com^etely exempted
from the charges just mentioned. The strictness of
. the general system of education there prevents the
possibility of such indecorum.

When women of respectable stations, and appa-
rently respectable characters, crowd round ihepublic
gwning-tables ; when they occupy the benches of the
caf^s; when they attempt not to conceal their full
understanding of every doubh'entendre ; when the
bourgeoise will unblushingly offer to the customer
the most licentious composition, or the most abomina-
ble print, the Englishman will turn away surprised
and disgusted.

In wnce, howevw, as ia every other country of

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150 CHAftAGTER AND MAKNERS

the world, that noblest of the works of Deity, the
heart of woman, often triumphantly resists the in-
fluence of the most pernidous customs. The traTel-
ler will undoubtedly be surprised at the profusion of
tawdry ornaments with which the Parisian women
decorate themselves, and the unreserved manner in
which they address him, and their evident anxiety to
attract his attention ; but if he universally or even
generally attributes this to depravity of heart or li-
centiousness of conduct, he will do them much in-
justice. '

The Frenchwoman has a peculiar sprightliness of
look, and vivacity of manner. Prompted by the ex-
cusable vanity of her sex, and sanctioned by the cus-
tom of her country, she expects, and seems even to
coini; the attention of the men : but an intimate ac-
quaintance with her will convince the most prejudiced,
that this may often be perfectly consistent with sen-
sibility, with modesty, and with virtue. The tourist
will indeed seldom find in Paris the retired and unas-
suming delicacy which was once said to constitute the
character of the English fair ; " his heart, untravelled,"
will stiU return with delight to those to whom he has
been endeared from early years, and in whose private
and domestic virtues he contemplates the penection
of female excellence.

In one article of personal decoration an evident re-
form has taken place among the females of Paris.
Rouge is no. longer applied with an unsparing hand.
The French women are generally brunettes, and
many of them possess that peculiar and sparkling,
complexion, which is often more captivating even than
the delicate and transparent skin of the northern fair.
These nymphs have at length apparently learned to
rely on the superior power of then- native, unassisted
charms ; and others, to whom nature has not been
e^juaJly kind, now apply the roseate tiue pf art much

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OF THE PARISIANS. 151

more lightly than some of the fashionable belles of
other countries. Time will show whether this is a
mere freak of feshion, or may be hailed as the har-
binj^r of better taste and simpler manners.

The French character is not less evident in the
lower classes of society. A pecuhar politeness of
behaviour, approaching often to the ridiculous, per-
vades the meanest ranks. The dustman and the milk-
maid salute each other in the street with all the scru-
pulous ceremonious punctilios which would be prac-
tised in the English <frawing--room. To strangers the
inferior classes are peculiarly civil, and always ready
to ^ve them information, or afford them assistance.
From this claim to civility I must, however, except
the servants, whose negligence and rudeness are often
insufferable.

The lower classes have an appearance of peculiar
intelligence and quick apprehension ; yet, probably,
the French peasants are not superior in these qualities
to the mechanics or the cottagers of other countries ;
but they are accustomed to bring their little acauire-
meiits into the most prominent point of view, ana they
have the happy knack of saymg something even on
those subjects on which they are most ignorant. They
are likewise distinguished by an improvidence and
disregard of futmi^ scarcely conceivable. Very few
ever make, or think of making, the least provision
against the accidents of life, or the infirmities of old
aj^e ; nor, after they have earned sufficient to supply
the wants of the present day, will they do the slightest
woric. If the poor Frenchman, early in the morning,
has procured enough to provide for himself and his
family the most moderate fare during the remainder of
the day, he uniformly gives himself up to amusement.
It should, however, be added, and much to their credit,
that the scenes of drunkenness and debauchery whidi
sometimes disgrace the British metropolis, are rardy

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15d METUODICAti GttBE TO THE

seen in Paris ; nor do brutal quarrels often disturb
the hours of business or of rest

The love of dancing seems almost innate. "Hie
porter and the shoe-black will frequently exhibit a
gracefulness of attitude perfectly unknown in the
lower ranks of society on this side the water. The
theatre, the promenade^and the dance, are the French-
man's chief pleasin*es.

" Alike all ages. Dames of ancient dajs

Have led their children thro' the mirthful maze ;
And the /tay g^randsire, skiU'd in gestic lore,
Has frlsk'd beneath tb* burden of threescore,'*

THE STRANGER'S METHODICAL GUIDE,

OR PLAN FOR VIEWING PARIS IN A WEEK.

Strangers may obtain admission to most of the public
buildings by exhibiting their passports; but in soms
instances tickets will be required, and may be procured
by applying at the Direction des Travaux des Monu^
mens Publics, No. 7, Rue PouUier, lie St. Louis.
Letters must be post-paid.

The most conyenient mode of yisitiDg the curiosities of
Paris, is by the foUowiog divisions.

If the traveller is pressed for time, and cannot see aU
the objects of interest, he will find those marked with a *
most worthy of his attention.

First Division. — ^Theatre Vaudeville,* Rue de
Chartres. — Louvre,* with the gallery which unites it to
the Tuileries.— Triumphal Arch of the Place du Ca-
rousel.*— Palace and Garden of the Tuileries.* — ^Pont
Boval,* with Vigier*s baths on the ri?er.— Place Louis
XV.* and the Garde Meuble,* now the Admiralty. —
Pbnt Louis XVI.*— Champs Elys^es.*— Palace d'Elys^
Bourbon,* rue du Faubourg St. Honor^.— Place Beau-
veau..— Colonnade of the new church of the Magdalen,*
intended by Buonapart« to be the T^nple of Glory, op-
'x>siie the Place Louis XV. — Place Vendome,* with the

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Utterv te. eorresporul wilh
of Parir i- th^^ ItulAv,

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: CUAI0SIT11B8 OF PARIS. ; 153

column^ in the centre. — Panorama^ Boulevard des Capo-
cines. — Royal College of Bourbon, rue Ste. Croix. — Gal-
lery or Passage de I'Orme, between rue Rivoli and rue St.
Honor^ .-^Church of the Assumption, or the Magdalen,
rue St. Honor^. — Garden of Tivoli,* rue de Clichy—
Abattoir (Slaughter-house) Miromesnil, rue de la Pepi-
niere. — Church of St. Philippe du Roule. — Hospital
Beaujon, rue du Faubourg du Roule — ^Paik of Mou-
ceaux. — ^Triumphal Arch of the Etoile,* at the Barrier
of NeuiTly. — Quartier de Francois I. — Pompe-at-feu and
Basin; at Chaillot— Pont des Invalides,* or de TEcole
Militaire. — ^Carpet Manufactory of La Savonnerie,* Quai
de Billy. — Cours la Reine.

Second Division. — Palais Royal*. — ^Theatre Fran-
Qais,* rue de Richelieu — Church of St. Roch,* rue St.
Honore. — King's Library,* rue de Richelieu. — Loterie
Royale, and Public Treasury, rue Neuve des Petits
Champs. — Marche des Jacobins, rue St. Honore. — New^
Exchange,* rue des Filles St. Thomas. — Comic Opera,*
rue Feydeau. — Italian Theatre,* Place des Italiens. —
Panorama, Passage des Panoramas. — ^Theatre des Va-
ri^t^s,* Boulevard Montmartre. — Chinese Baths, Boule-
vard des Capucines. — ^The Opera,* rue Lepelletier. —
Royal School of Music, and Menus Plaisirs du Roi,
rue Berg^re, Faubourg Poissonniere. — Church of St.
Vincent de Paule. — The Abattoir of Montmartre,* near
Montmartre.

Third Division. — General Post-Office, rue J. J.
Rousseau. — Place des Victoires, with Statue of Louis
XIV.* — GrandesMessageries, (stage-coaches for all parts
of France, and for London,) rue Notre Dame des Vic-
toires.— ^Market of St. Joseph, rue Montmartre. — Church
of St. Eustache, rue Montmartre. — Prison of St. Lazare,
for women. — Maison de Sant^,rue du Faubourg St. Denis.
— New Quartier Poissonniere.

Fourth Division. — Bank of France,* rue de la
Vrilli^re. — Ancient Hotel des Fermes, rue de Crenelle
St. Honore.— Halle au Ble* (the Com Market.)— Market
and Fountain of the Innocents.* — Cloth Market. — Church

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154 IfiraODXCAL «I7IM VO VHB

of St. Germain rAuxerrois,* O[>p08ite the colonnade of
the Louvre. — ^Baths Montesquieo, rue Montesquieu. —
Pont des Arts. — ^Baths Vigier, on the river, near the Pont-
Neuf. — Pont au Change. — ^Place du Chatelet. — ^Protestant
Churchy at the Oratoire, rue St. Honors.

Fifth Division. — Gate of St. Denis.*— Gate of St*
Martin.*— Chfiteau d'Eau^ Boulevard Bondi j — Diorama,*
Poulevard St. Martin v-^Hospital for Incurables, rue du
Faubourg St. Martin. — ^Hospital of St. Louis,* lue de
rHopital St Louis, Faubourg du Temple. — Church of
St. Laurence, rue du Faubourg St. Martin. — Barrier of St.
Martin. — Basin of the Canal de TOurcq,* at the barrier
of la Villette.— Theatre of the Porte St. Martin*.— Sum-
mer Vauxhall*. — Fmnconi's Circus and Riding-house,*
behind the Ch&teau d'Eau. — ^Leather Market (nalle aux
cuirs), rue Mauconseil. — Perpetual Fair of Cairo, rue
St. Denis. — Church de Bonne Nouvelle, rue Notre Dame
des Bonnes Nouvelles.

Sixth Division.— Tower of St. Jacques de la Bou-
efaerie.*— St. Martin's Market.— Conservatory of Arts,*
ancient Abbey of St. Martin, rue St. Martin.— -Madelon*
nettes, rue des Fontaines, prison for female debtors, and
for female delinquents before trial. — ^Temple Market,
(for old clothes,) rue du Temple. — Palace of the Tem«
{>le,* now a convent, rue do Temple.— Theatres Ambigu-
Comique* and Gai6t6,* on the Boulevard du Temple.—
Jardin Turc,* Boulevard du Temple. — Jardin des Princes,
on the same Boulevard. — ^Baths (Bains Turcs), rue da
Temple. — Cour Batave, rue St. Denis.— Church of St.
Nicholas des Champs, rue St. Martin.— Church of St. Leu,
rue St. Denis.

Seventh Division. — Royal Printing Office,* Vieille
me du Temple.— Archives of France, at the Hdtel 8ou«
bise.*— Mont-de-Piel^, rue des Blancs Manteaux^—
Waterworks of the Pont Notre Dame. — Church of St.
Merry, rue St. Martin. — ^Lutheran Protestant Church, rue
des Billettes.— Synagogue of the Jews, rue St Avoie,
opposite the Fountain.— Prison de la Force,* rue St
Antoine.— Market St. Jean, rue de la Verterie.

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CimtOSITIIBi OP »ARIS. 155

Eighth Divi8ioN.*-PlaQe Royal*.* — Scbool of En*
gioeerfl^ for making roads and bHdges, rue CuHure Ste.
CatheriDe. — Abattoir PopiDcourU— ^Hospital de la Ro«
quette. — Cemetery of Pfere la Chaise.* — ^Place du Trone.
— ^Plate^glass manufactory,* roe de Reuilly. — ^Hospital
of St. Antolne, rue du Faubourg St. Antoine. — Church of
St. Margaret, Faubouig St. Antoine. — Market of Beau-
veau and of St. Paul. — Hospital of the Blind,* called
Qtainze Vingts, rue de Charenton. — ^French Protestant
church of St. Marie, rue St. Antoine. — ^Place de laBa*-
tille. — Grand reservoir of the Canal de TOurca and tho
pedestal of the projected Fountain of the Elepnant.*— •
The Boulevard de Bourdon, occupying the site of tha
famous Bastille.

NiwTH Division. — Church of Notre Dame.* — ^Arch-
blshop's palace.* — Hospital of Hdtel Dieu,* rue du
March6 Palu.— H8tel de Vllle,* place de Greve.—
Church of St. Gervais, rue de I'Orme St. Gervais.—
Church of St. Paul and St. Louis,* rue St. Antoine.—
College Charlemagne, rue St. Antoine. — Tjibrary of the
Arsenal,* at the Arsenal. — Archives of the Palace of
Justice (Law Records), near the Palace of Justice. —
City Library,* rue St. Antoine. — ^Floating-baths, near
the Pont Marie. — Granaries of Reserve,* about half
ihiished, near the Boulevard Bourdon. — ^Market for gar^
den*trees, shrubs, and flowers, on the quai Dessaix.

Tbnth Division,— -Hotel deaMonnaies* (the MintX
quai de la Monnaie.<^Pa]aia des Beaux Arts,* ou de
rinstltut.— Old Church of the Abbey St. Germain,*
place da rAbbaye.«^Ho8pital of la Charity, me det
Saints P^res. — Fountain of Crenelle,* rue de Gvenelle.-^
Church of St. Thomas d'Aquin, rue St. Dominique.-^
Palace of the Legion of Honour,* rue de Bourbon.-—
Swimming School, on the river, near the Pont Louis XVL
«— Palace Bourbon.,* and Chamber of Deputies,* rue de
rUniversit^.-^-Museum of Artillery,* rue de TUniversit^.
— Hotel of the King's Life-Guards, quai d'Orsay.'-^Hotel
of the ]nvalida.*—MiUtary School.*— Champs de Mafs.*
--•Gymnastio School. — ^Abattoir Vaugirard, behind th»
Jnvciida.-— New FooDtaia of the roe Vaugirard .-^HospK
tal of IncaiaU^> (^i women^ rue dt Sdyxes^^-AoiilHial lof

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156 CURIOSITl^^.

Families (Hospice des Manages,) rue de Sevres. — ^M&iket
of Agiiesseau; nie du Bac^ and that of rue de Sevres. —
Church of Foreign Missions, rue du Bac.

Eleventh Division. — Palais de Justice/ in the
.Cit6. — Morgue,* au March6 Neuf. — ^Pont St. Michel. —
Prefecture of Police, quai des Orfevres. — ^Place Dauphine,
with the Fountain Dessaix. — ^PontNeuf* and Statue of
Henry IV.* — Poultry and game market^ quai des Augus-
tins. — Remains of Julian's palace, called des Thermes,
No. 68, rue de la Harpe. — Sorbonne,* place Sofbonne. —
School of Medicine,* rue de I'Ecole de M^decine. —
Theatre Odeon,* rue de POdeon. — Palace of the Luxem-
bourg,* and the Chamber of Peers.* — Church of St. Sul-
pice.* — Church of the Carmelites, rue de Vaugirard.

Twelfth Division. — New Wine-mart.*— ^Bridge of
the Garden of Plants.* — Garden of Plants and Museum of
Natural History.* — Hospital of Salp6tri^re.* — Horse-
Market. — Abattoir (slaughter-house), near the barrier
of the Gobelins or Fontainebleau. — Manufactory of Ta-
pestry or Gobelins,* rue Mouffetard. New Fountain, rue
Censier. — Observatory,* behind the Luxembourg. — ^En-
trance to the Catacombs,* at the barridre d' Enter. — ^La
Matemit6, (a lying-inn hospital), rue d'Enfer, — Val de
Grace,* rue du Faubourg St. Jacques. — Deaf and Dumb
Institution,* rue du Faubourg St. Jaques. — Church of St.
Jacques du Haut Pas, rue St Jacques. — Church of St.
Genevieve, or Pantheon,* rue St. Jacques. — College of
Henry IV., behind the Pantheon. — Church of St. Etienne
du Mont. — Polytechnic School, rue de la Montagne, St.
Genevieve. — Law School* (Ecole de Droit), place du
Pantheon — College of France, place Cambray. -—College
of St. Barbe, rue de Rheims.— -College of Louis le Grand,
rue St. Jacques. — Apothecaries* Hall (Ecole de Phar-
macie,) rue de TArbal^te. — Irish College, rue du Cheval
Vert, near the Pantheon. — College of Rheims, rue de
Rheims. — College of Lisieux. — College of Laon, rue des
Carmes. — Scotch College, rue des fosses St. Victor. —
English Seminary, No. 22, rue des Postes. — Church of St.
Jean de Latran. place de Cambray. — Church of St.
Nicholas du Chardonnet, rue St. Victor. — Calf-market>
sear the quai St. Bernard. ^

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AMUSEMBNTS OF PARIS.

163

SUNDAY. , "^^ .

Open- Shot-

tag. ttaf.

Mus^e Royal— Loavre 10 4

Mns^ da Luxemboarg— Luzembcrarf - - • 10 4

Conservatoire des Arts et Mdtiex8—Rae St. Martin, SOS 10 4

M6iagerie — Jardin des Plantes 11 3

Orand Op^ra— Rue Lepelletier 10 - - . - - - 7 0

Th^tre Franyais— Rae Ricbelien, 6 - - - - 7 0

Op^ra Comique— Rue Feydeau, 29 70

Second Theatre Franfais— Place de TOd^n - - - 7 0

Th«ltre du Vaudeville— Rue de Chartres, 14 - - 6 0

Th^tre de Madame— Boulevard Bonne-NouveUe, 8 • ^ 0 .

Thd&tre des Vari^f^s— Boulevard Mpntmartre, 5 . - 6^ 0
Th^&tre de la Porte-St:-Martin— Boulevard St Martin,

18 6 0

Th^tre de la Galt^— Boulevard du Temple, 68 - - 5 0
Tb^&trc de rAmbigu-Coraique— Boulev.'ird du Temple,

74 - - - 5 0

Cirque Olympique — ^Rue du Faubourg du Temple, 14-6 0 •

Thtttre de Comte— Passage dea Panoramas • - - 6 0 ,
Th^tre des Aerobates— Boulevard du Teknple; 63 --60

Tk^&tredesFunambules— Boulevard da Temple, 64 • 6 0

Th^itre de S^rapbin— Palais-Royal, 121 - • - 6 0

Panoramss-^PasBagedes Panoramas - - - - 10 4

Bioramar— Rue Bondy, 8 - 10 4

Cosmoranoa— Palais-Royal, 331 6 10

Georamsi — Boulevard des Capucines ' • • - 10 5

E«roporam»— Passage del'Opera - - - - - 10 10

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l64 FESTIVALS.

FESTIVALS.

Jan, «1. Commetaoration of the death of Louis XVI.
and Marie Antoinette. Funeral service is performed in
ail the churches, but with particular splendour at Notre
Dame and at St. Denis.

The Carnival is celebrated on the last three days before
the beginning of Lent, but the third is the principal
g^la day. Processions of various kinds take place in
the streets ; and in the evening all the theatres are open
for masquerades.

In the Holy Week, the procession of Long Champ
takes place. See Bois de Boulogne.

April 12. The return of Charles X to Paris in 1814,
is celebrated by a gala at court, a review, &c. If the
weather be fine, the King visits different parts of the citv.

June, F^te Dieu. On this day the Royal Family
go in procession from the Tuileries to St. Germain I'Aux*
errois. Mass is performed at eleven, and in about two
hours and a half, the. procession returns.. The streets
are lined with tapestry.

Aug, 15. A procession in pursuance of the vow of
Louis XIII. takes place in the streets of the city at four
o'clock. The King and Royal Family attend at Notre
Dame.

Sept* 8. F^e de la Ste. Vierge. On this occasion,
grand mass is performed on Mont Calvaire. Several
membffls of the Royal Family are generally present.

Sept, Horse-races take place this month on the
Champ de Mars,

Nov, 4. The King's Birth day is celebrated by va-
rious amusements, bearing considerable resemblance to
those of an English fair. Wine, sausages, and other eat-
ables, are distributed in the Champs Elys^es, to the
lower orders, whose scrambling and contentions afford
no small amusement to a stranger.

On the opening of the Chamber of Deputies, the King
and Princes go there in grand procession. The previous
evening the King goes in state to celebrate mass at
Notre Dame,

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■^

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?>.

THB TUILER1E8* 165

PALACES.

Paris abounds with palaces more worthy of royal
residence than some of the mean and micouth build-
ings which almost disgrace the metropolis of Eng-
land. The following are the most remarkable for
beauty or grandeur.

^^ Leg Tuileries, Palace of the Tuileries.

This edifice derives its name from having been
^feected on a piece of ground appropriated to the ma-
nnfewBture of tiles. It was founded by Catherine de
MediciSi when Charles IX. destroyed her former resi-
dence,^© palace Toumelles. ITie land and neiffh-
bouringibpuses were purchased by her at a consider-
able expeh|e,*and the building rapidly proceeded,
when, superstitiously addicted to the study of astro-
logy, she formed the ridiculous idea that the name of
St. Germain would be fatal to h«r, and the completion
of the sumptuous fabric was suddenly relinquished,
because the ground on which it stood was in the
parish of St. Grermain rAuxerrois. She built the
great pavilion, which now forms the centre of the
palace, with the ranges of building immediately ad-
joining, and the pavilions that terminate them. The
palace was much enlarged by Henry IV., 5nd after-
wards hy Louis XIII. The front now consists of
^ye pavilions, comprising that in the centre; with
four ranges of buildings connecting them together,
and forming one grand facade. Every order of archi-
tecture is render^ subservient to the embellishment
of this magnificent edifice ; but the Ionic pillars on
the right of tiie terrace particularly captivate the eye

• The letter tind figure placed under the bead of each building
refer to its situation on the plan of Paris at the end of the book.

Digitized by Google

by their beautiful proporti<Hi and exquisite work-
manship,

In 1664, Louis XIV. completed the embellishment
of this palace. Previous to this, the large pavilion
in the centre consisted only of the Ionic and Corin-
tiiian orders. To these he added tiie Composite, and
crowned the building with an additional story. This
pavilion, whether viewed from the com! or tiie garden,
presents a beautiftil specimen of architecture. The
whole fapade is adorned with Ionic pillars, placed on
pedestals^ Above these, on the three centre pavilions*
and the piles of building which connect them, appears
the Corinthian order, over which is the attic story of
the palace, surmounted by a balustrade. The balus-
trade of the pavilions at the extremities is surmounted
by elegant stone vases. The two other ranges of
buildii^, with the pavilions which terminate th^n,
are adorned with nuted columns of the Composite
order. The pillars are all formed of superb brown
and red marble.

The portico of the centre pavilion towards the court
is peculiarly beautiful, the ground-floor is decorated

S columns of the Ionic order, and on either side of
gate are exquisite antique statues of Apollo and
a Faun. Above are supert) columns of brown and
red marble, of the Composite order, supporting a
triangular pediment. In the centre is the clock of
tlie palace, and above are two recumbent statues of
Justice and Prudence.

The portico towards the garden is similarly orna-
mented, but the columns are not constructed oC
marble. The niches on each side of the vestibule are
decorated by antique marble statues of Mars and
Minerva ; and on either side of the gate is a lion of
white marble with its foot on a globe. On the galle-
ries are eighteen marble statues of Roman senators
clad in the toga, and in other parts of the fapade are
twenty-two busts of Roman emperors and generals.

Though each part, taiken separately. Is beftntiftil
and perfect, it is much to be regretted that so little
unity of design prevails. We plainly reckon fire
different orders of architecture, and five distinct spe-
cies of ornament succeeding each other without con-
nexion and without harmony. The transition frcNm
the second pavilion to the range of buildings beyond
it, is likewise extremely harsh and abrupt

"Ilie extraordinary height of the roof in the front
towards the garden has likewise been censured by
some arclutects. It gives an air of heaviness to the
whole facade, which the relief of the beautifbl colon-
nade, enriched with numerous vases and statues,
cannot altogether remove.

An iron palisade, erected on a wall two feet in
height, incloses the coach-yard of the palace, and
divides it from the Carousel.

The beautiful triumphal arch, erected by Napoleon,
which forms the principal entrance, will be described
in another part of this work.

The gardens of the Tuileries are the work of Le-
nostre, and are much admired for the simple yet im-
posing style in which they are laid out.

The pnncipal walk, extending tlnrough the whole
length of the garden, and bordered by fine orange-
trees in every progressive stage of v^tation, fbrms
a delightful promenade in summer. In the morning
these gardens are the resort of the pohtician, who,
for four sous, is acconunodated with a chair and a
newspaper. In the afternoon and evening they are
crowded by a gayer assembly.

The fashionable hours oi promenade are from
noon until four or five o'clock in the winter, and
from eight to ten o'clock in the evening during the
summer. Chairs are let out for two sous for the
evening.

The view of the garden from the portico of the

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103 THfi TUILBIUES.

palace is much admired. After wandering through
an immense pai'teire, bordered with orange-trees,
enriched with statues, and diversified by fountains
and basins of water, the eye glances over the squai*e
of Louis XV. ; and the view is continued across the
beautiful walks of the Elysian-fields, and through
the avenue of Neuilly, to the triumphal arch which
crowns the summit of the hill, and pleasingly closes
theprospect.

' The terrace of the garden towards the Seine afPords
an interesting view of the river, the magnificent edi-
fices of the quay d'Orsai, and the Champs Elys^.
On the opposite terrace, the avenue through the
noble street of Rivoli discovers the place Vendome,
the triumphal column, and the Boulevards beyond.

Some fine specimens of ancient sculpture, and
many excellent copies from the antique, are placed
in various parts of the gardens. The traveller will
particularly notice the statue of Mne&s canying his
father Anchises, near the circular basin ; Atalanta
and Hippomenes, in the shrubbery; and Meleager,
Q.t the extremity of the orange-walk.

On the terrace, in fi-ont of the palace, are eight
statues, and two richly-sculptured marble vases: the
statue before the portico, on the left (towards the
river), is a Venus seated on a turtle, as she is su|>-
posed to be coming out oi the water. This statue is
in bronze, and copied firom the antique ; the three
others, on that side, are two nymphs, and a hunter in
marble, by Coustou, placed at tiie extremity of the
terrace that borders tne Seine; on the right side
(towards the rue de Rivoli), the Grinder (Remouleur)
in bronze, copied from the antique ; the three other
statues are a faun, a wood nymph^ and a Flora, by
Coysevox, all in marble.

Round the circular basin, on the left, in the grand
parterre, the metamorphosis of Atlas, a colossal

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TAB TUILBItlSS. 169

figure by Coustou the elder ; then Bareas carrying
off Orithea, by Marsy and Flamen ; and next to this,
iSneas carrying his father Anchises on his shoulders,
and leading his son Ascanius by the hand, the chef-
d'oeuvre of the celebrated statuary, Le];iautre. Round
the circular basin, to the right, the metamorphosis
of Daphne ; then Saturn carrying off Cybele ; and
lastly, the deatli of Lucretia, b^un at Rome by
Theodon, and &iished at Paris by Lepautre.

In the transversal alley of lime-trees which sepa-
rates the parterre from the two groves of horse-
chestnut trees ; — to the right, a Diana and two vases ;
to the left, Julius Caesar and two vases ; a muse,
conmionly called the muse of Famese, and a bad
copy of the Hercules of Famese.

On entering the groves is discovered in each an
inclosed green recess, surrounded by an iron railing,
bordered on the inside with beds of liowers. The
extremities towards the groves of these charming
little inclosures, are paved with white marble, which
is in part surrounded by elevated semi-circular
benches, likewise of marble. Before one of these
benches, in the grove to the left, is a statue in marble
representmg a faun carrying a kid, and looking at
Apollo and Daphne running before him. In the
inclosure at the entrance of the giX)ve to the right,
Apollo seems to be judging the race between Hippo-
menes and Atalanta, diarmingly executed by Le-
pautre.

In the other part of the grove, to the right, is a
gpoiro representmg Castor and Pollux, by Coustou
and Lepautre ; together with a Centaur and an Em-

In the grove to the left, a group representing
Bacchus and a young Hercuies ; and farther on,
two Wrestlers by Mangin, and a Wild Boar, finely
executed.
Q

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110 TW TUIIiMIll.

The two §;rov6s are separated by a v&y wide
avenue, facing the centre of the palace. At the
extremity of &is magnificent avenue is a very large
octagon basin, round "tvhich are placed ten statues ;
to th^ left» Soi|HO AMcanus, by Coustou the elder;
two others, one representing Spring, and the other
Summer; then A^ppina, and lastly, Silenus; to
the light, towards me palace, Hannibal counting the
rings of the Roman knights slain at the battte of
CannsB, by Sebastian Slodtz ; Winter, Autumn, and
a Vestal, copied from the antique by liCgros, and a
Bacchus.

Round the same octagon basin, towards the Place
Louis XV., are placed four groups : Hie frst to th«
right, representing the Tiber, by Vancl6ve ; the se-
cond, the Sdne and the Mame, by Coustou the
elder. To the left the Nile, copied from the antique,
by Bourdie ; the Loire and the Loiret, by the same
artist

In the left niche of the walls of the terrace is a
Venus, and in that to the ri^t a copy of the Mer-
cmy of Famese. ^

At the grand entrance of the garden. Mercury and
Fame, seated on winged horses, publishing the ex-
ploits of Louis XIV. These two groups, by Coyse-
vox, are finely executed, particularly the horses.
Opposite to them are two others, at the entrance of
the Champs £lys6es, representing horses tamed, and
held by slaves; they were the last production of
William Coustou, and are master-pieces of art

Upon what is called the Fer at Chcval (horse-shoe)
of the terrace, are the Nine Muses and Apollo.

On the terrace towards the river, by the side of the
parterre, are placed four beautifiil marble vases, and
six bronze statues ; namely, an Antinous ; a Venus
coming out of a bath; tne Pythian, or Belvidere
Apollo ; the group of the Laocoon ; Hercules hold-
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TBB T0IL1IIIS8. 171

li^ his infant son Telephns on Ms left am ; and a
very fine statue in marble of Diana the huntress,
opposite the entrance of the grove. The four vases
ore placed in the intervals between the statues.

Four vases brought from Marly, richly and exqui-
sitely wrought, are placed at the top of the double
flight of stone steps which lead firom the garden to
the middle of the terrace. In a niche between tiie
two flights of steps is a beautiful bronze statue, re-
presenting Ariadne asleep in the island of Naxos,
commonly called the Cleopatra,

At the commencement of the walk of oranffe-trees,
is placed a group between four beautiful marble vases.
This group is commonly called Papirius and Ma
Mother, although by some supposed to represent the
first interview l^tween Electra and Orestes.

At the other extremity of this walk is the Meleager,
an admirable statue, loehind the Meleager, to the
ndit, is a statue fixed to the wall, representing
HWeia.

tSic apartments of the palace, for extent, height,
and magnificence, are well worthy of observation.

The noble vestibule is adorned with Ionic columns,
and communicates with two ^Ueries leading^ on one
side to the lower part of tiie chapel, and on me other,
to the King's private staircase. To the right is the
grand staircase, the balustrade of which is orna-
mented with lyres and snakes imder s\ms, the crests
of Colbert and Louis XTV., and on the first landing
is the Scdle des Cents Suisses, decorated with four
Ionic columns. In firont are two erect statues of
Silence, and two seated, representing the chancellors
Daguesseau and L'Hdpital. Hence a staircase as-
cends to the chapel, and to a small room former^
occu]^ied by the council of state, the ceiling of which
is painted "by Gerard, and represents the entry of
Henry IV. The Chcpel is remarkably neat, and

172 THB TUILBRIB9.

is adorned with two rows of columns of stone and
stucco : at the end is the altar, and opposite to it,
the orchestra, beneath which is the king's pew.

The Pavilion Marsan, at the extremity of this part
of the palace, contains ttie apartments oi the Princes.
The new wing beyond it is occupied by the Treasury,
the Governor of the palace, and other branches of
the household.

In the space formerly occupied by the Salle des
Machines, and afterwards by the Convention, is the
Salle des Spectacles, The king's box fronts the
stage, and on each side of it are galleries. The pit,
the gallery, and the first story, are reserved for the
court, and the company invited are accommodated in
boxes on the ground-floor, and in two rows above
the gallery.

E^turmng to the grand staircase are seen the state-
apartments. The m-st is the Salle des Marichaux,
occupying the whole of the central pavilion, and
having a balcony on each side. It contains jportraits
of the Marshals of France, and busts ot several
French Generals who have died on the field of battle,
as well as a fine picture by Gerard, representing the
entry of Henry IV. into Paris.

The next room is the Salon des Nobles, on the
c^ng of which are painted marches, battles, and
ancient triumphs ; and beyond this, is the Salon de
la Paix, containing a beautiful silver statue from a
model by Chaudet ; the ceiling, painted by Loir, -
represents the Rising Sun ; Time is showing him the
space over which he has to run, while Spring is seen,
followed by Abundance, and Fame is proclaiming
the benefits of the star of day ; the four quarters of
theglobe are also introduced rejoicing in his gifts.

The Salle du Trone is lighted by three windows,
opposite to which is the throne, surmounted by a
canopy of crimson velvet, sprinkled with fleurs-de-lys.

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THE TtJILERIES. 17*

and bordered with gold fringe, the whole suspended io
a crown of laurel and oak m-anches, above which is a
helmet and plume of white feathers. The seat, raised
on three steps, is also of crimson velvet, and is richly
decorated ^vith sculptured ornaments and gold fleurs-
de-tys. The walls are adorned with rich gobelin
tapestry, and on the ceiling is a painting by Flemael,
representing Religion protecting France. Behind
this room is the King's Cabinet, or Salle de Conseil,
adorned with gilding, sculpture, and painting, in the
stjle of the age of Louis XlV.: over the chimney-
piece are figures of History ana Fame, executed by
Taunay; and there are also two fine specimens of
gobelin tapestry.

At the end of the state- apartments is the Gallery
of Diana, the spjlendour of which is much increased
by numerous mirrors. The subjects painted on the
ceiHnff are copies of those in the Famese Palace, and
have been executed by the pupils of the French Aca-
demy at Rome. Bemnd the gallery of Diana are the
King's Private Apartments, looking towards the
garden. They are entered by the grand staircase of
Sie pavilion oi Flora, and consist of an ante-chamber,
two saloons, the king's private cabinet, a second cabi-
net a bed-room, and a dressing-room. These apart-
ments are by no means so splendid as those on the
other side of the building, but they are all furnished
with painted ceilings, chiefly relating to the education
of Louis XlV. The ceiling of the ante-chamber,
painted in 1810, represents Mars marking each month
of the year by a victory.

On the ground-floor are the Queen's Apartments,
occupied l^the Duchess d'AngoulSme, and furnished
in a lighter and more modem style liian the other
rooms. The dining-room, though it has only one
window, is, by a happy disposition of glasses, made to
appear partioulariy hght. In the concert-room n n

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174 THE PALAIS ROYAL.

moveable theatre for the performance of private jmu*-
ties, and in the Salle des Trots Graces is a charming
pictm« by M. Blondell.

Tickets to view the interior may he obtained on
(wplieation, by letter, to Monsieur le Gouvemeur du
Cndteau des Tuileries» The apartments, however,
are not shown except when the king is out. A single
person is generatty expected to give twofra^^cs to
the attendants ; but if a party go, one franc from
each person is considered sufficient.

Should the traveller wish to see the royal family at
chapel, he must attend at the review which takes place
every Sundav morning in the court of the Tiuleries,
and generally terminates about eleven o'clock. At
the close of the review, the gates are opened for the
admission of those who have furnished themselves
with tickets, which may be procured iu the same way
as those for the interior of the palace. If our tourist
is properly dressed, he may possibly obtain a seat in
the same gallery with the royal familv ; but if he is
clothed either in boots or pantaloons, he will in vain
apply for admittance. In any dress, however, he
may enter the body of the chapel free of expense, and
he will be amply gratified by the touching and sub-
lime ijerformance of the service of the mass, although
he will not ^et one glimpse of the royal family.
Professional smgers assist in the service.

Le Palais Royal. The Royal Palace.
[Httc St. Honor^.] F 8.

The Paltos Royal was begun by cardinal Richelieu,
in 1629, on the site which had been occupied by the
hotels Mercoeur and Rambouillet The celebrated Le
Mercier was employed as the architect As the for-
tunes of the cardinal augmented, he enlarged on the
original plan. It w^s completed in ^6361, and its touf-^

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THE PALAIS ROYAL. 175

ensemble,ioYmedofsuccessiye additions, was a curioug
yet accurate representation of the growing wealth and
power of its owner. It was then called Le Palais
Cardinal. At his death he bequeathed it to Louis
XIII. He died in the following year, when his widow,
Ann of Austria, quitted the Louvre, and established
herself in this edifice with her young son, Louis XIV.,
and his brother the duke of Anjou. From this cir-
cumstance it was called Le Palais Royal, although the
queen, fi*om gratitude to the donor, caused the in-
scription " Le Palais Cardinal " to be placed over the
principal portal.

The place, in front of the palace towards the street
St Honore, was now completed.

In 1692, Louis XIV. gave it to his nephew Philip
of Orleans, on his marriage with Maria-Franoes of
Bourbon. That part of the building that reaches to
the rue Richelieu, and which the cardinal had destinwi
as his library, was then finished.

In the right wing of the palace, at this period, was
an immense hall, capable of containing 3000 persons.
The Italian comedians, and the company Moliere, per-
formed here. It was burnt down in 1 763, and on the
same spot was built the opera-house which was also
burnt in 1781.

The left wing was occu];)ied by a vast gallery, the
roof of which had been painted by Philip de Cnam-
pagne, and represented the principal events of the
life of the cardinal. This was destroyed to build a
residence for Philip of France, the only brother of the
king.

m process of time it descended to the revolutionary
duke of Orleans, to \s hom it is indebted for its present
magnificence, and for its present disgrace. The front
towards the street of St. Honor6 was built by him after
the ctestruction of the opera-house in 1 763. It presents
two pityflions, adorned with Poric an4 Ipi^i^ columns,

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176 »ttB PALAIS ROYAL.

and crowned with pediments, in which are sculptured
figures of Prudence, Liberality, Strength, and Justice,
by Pajou. The buildings of the fost court have
Doric and Ionic pilasters, and Doric coliunns orna-
ment the vestibule which conducts to the second court,
where is another magniiicent facade composed of
two pavilions, with Ionic columns surmounted by a
pediment.

On the left of the vestibule is the Gallery of Vir-
ginia, formerly occupied as the Exchange, and on the
right, is the grand staircase, which, although it is said
to be deficient in some of its proportions, will excite
the admiration of the spectator. It was constructed
by Desorgues, and is adorned with two genii in bronze,
liie polished iron railing, executed by Corbin, is con-
sidered a chef-d'oeuvre. The state-apartments are on
the first floor, and maybe seen on application in wri-
ting, when the prince is out.

The present building is in the form of a parallelo-
mm, and of the most elegant modem architecture.
The parapet that surrounds it, decorated with im-
mense stone vases of exquisite beauty, will not fail to
attract attention.

The whole of the circuitous extent of the galleries
on the ground-floor, without any intermption, is nearly
half a mile. There are 1 80 urcades, which at night
are lighted by an equal number of lamps.

Passing under the porticoes, an immense square
unexpectedly opens on the traveller. In the centre
is a garden interspersed by many young and flourish-
ing trees, and encircled by lattice-work. It measures
about 700 feet inlength,300in breadth, and contains
about six acres. On one part of the grass-plot is a
small cannon, which is discharged about noon when
the rays of the sun fall on a magnifying glass sus-
pendea over it. In the centre of this gmlen is a
large circular basin, with a fountain in the middle,

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THE PALAIS ROTAIf. 177

which throws out water to a considerable he^htin
various directions. Around it is a building worthy
of the name which it bears. It is indeed a royal
palace, and worthy to become the residence of the
sovereign , of a great country- ^^^ ^be crimes of its
former owner have rendered it a strange, unique, and
dis^^raceful scene, which defies all description.

Having exhausted his noble revenues by a course of
luxury and profligacy of which history scarcely aff(n^s
a parallel, he was driven to some desperate expedient
to save himself from utter ruin. He detenmned to
convert the residence of a prince into an immense ba-
zaar. The beautiful arcades of the lower galleries
were divided by diminutive and ill-executed pilasters,
and the garden was smrounded by a row of little
shops, which were speedily let to the highest bidder.
Had h^ stopped here he might have been forgiven ;
but, urged by avarice, or by the desire of obtaining
exhaustless resources to support his unhallowed pur-
suits, or to enable him to accomplish the murder of
his sovereign, he consigned other apartments of the
palace to the most infamous purposes. A few of the
upper galleries were appropriated to the lectures of
the various professors, others were let to restaurateurs,
but more were devoted to the accommodation of the

f ambler and the sensualist, and became the favourite
aunt of every species of vice and debauchery.

The shops in the arcades of the g-ound story are
tastefully and elegantly fitted up. Every article of
luxury, every thing which can contribute to the orna-
ment of the person, to the gratification of the appetite,
to the improvement of the intellect, or the contami-
nation of the heart, is found here.

Should the traveller be in want of habiliments, an
artist, at the end of the wooden gallery, boasts that
he will furnish him a complete smt of clothes before
he can peruse the Moniteur, with which he is pre-

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17ft THB PALAIS ItOTAL.

sented, to pass the time. Have his inferior garments
BufSn^ by the mud, which is eternally runningthrough
the streets of Paris, and with which every j^estrian
is plentiftilly bespattered, he enters the neat little
shop of a dealer in jet-like blacking ; he is seated on
a form covered with velvet, the journals of the day
are ]^ut into his hand, and in a few moments not only
do his boots rival the lustre of the mirror, but eveiy
office of the valet is performed with expertness and
elegance. Should the wants of nature imperiously
nrge ttieir claims, he will find, near the shops, several
KtSe retreats, that will offend neither the visual nor
the olfactory nerves of the most fastidious, and into
which he may gain admittance for the trifling siun of
three sous; and he will be gratuitously suppued wiUi
a sufficient portion of the works of those authors
whose lucum*ations have been doomed by the public
to assist in the mysteries of Cloacina. The esta-
blishment of these httle cabinets was formerly pecidiar
to the Palais Roval ; and is not the least ingenious,
or the least laudable of the inventions of the eccentric
founder.

The booksellers' shops, or rather stalls, will attract
attention in the day, and the jewellers* at night. In
the former, every work of literature may be procured ;
but the shops of the Palais Ro3ral are peculiarly cele-
brated as the emporium of every licentious production,
whether in the form of book, caricature, or print
Altiiough these are not often obtruded on the view of
the passenger, yet they are readily produced at the
slightest requisition ; and their merits are descanted
on with the greatest volubility and the most perfect
nonchalance by the females, who firequently officiate
in these boutiques.

The traveller should be informed, that the mer-
chants of the Palais Royal can by no means be re-
commended for the moderation of their charges.

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7H9 PALAtS &OTAIn 179

They pay an enonnous rent for ih^ diminutiye
shops*, and they are compelled to reimburse them-*
selves by the exorbitance of their prices. It likewise
not unnrequently happens, that the trader of the
Palais Royal will take naif, or even less than half^ of
what he first demands of tiie stranger. One part of
the gallery is known by the expressive title, ** The
camp of the Tartars f and the glased gallery on the
side of the Rue de Richelieu is denominated, ** Camp
of the Barbarians.'*

Beneath are subterranean apartments, in one of
which a motley assemblage is dancing to the music
of some vnretched performer ; in a second, an equally
^-assorted group are regaling themselves with then:
favourite liqueurs, from the vin de Bourgogne to
simple small beer ; in a third, a niunber of miserable
objects are crowding around tiiie hazard or the billiard-
table ; and, if you dare to enter into the fourth, you
witness the most disgusting scenes of debauchery and
vice. Ascending once more to the arcades, the stran-
ger admires the cleanly and elegant appearance of the
restaurateurs or taverns. The English epicure can
form no conception of the rich and aJbmost innumerable
dishes which mere invite his taste. (See article, Res^
iauratmrs,) The coffee-houses, some of which are
subterranean, others on the ground-floor, and some
up stairs, are convenient and elegant, and constantly
filled. The prices are the same throughout the Palais
Royal. Hair a cup of coffee costs 8 sous ; a glass of
C(^ac brandy 5 sous ; a glass of liqueur 8 sous, and
some dearer ; a carafe of lemonade, orgeat, and bava-
roises, 15 sous ; and an ice 1 firanc. A tea breakfast
36 sous, — See article Cq/if*. There are also several

• A shop oomposed of one arcade only, in the stone sra'l«"**»^
for 8,000 francs ; an arcade from top to bottom is worth about 5,0W
francs; so that a house composed of five arcades, (&yt windows »
front) lets for the eBorm^as sam of 85,000 francs per annum.

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180 TH£ PALAIS ROTAL.

estamtnets, or smoking rooms, of a superior de-
scription.

If the traveller now ascend to some of the apart-
ments on the first floor, a different and miexpected
scene breaks upon him. He is admitted into the very-
abode of gaming and ruin. Innumerable rooms open
in succession, and all of them crowded, in which
every game of hazard or of skill is played. These
are authorized by law ; tliey are under the immediate
sanction of government, and contribute largely to its
support. In order to facilitate the circulation of the
money staked, each table is provided with short
wooden instruments, called rateaux,yfhich collect the
money scattered over the table.

Other ranges of apartments are occupied by restau-
rateurs ; and some are appropriated to scientific pur-
suits. Lectures on the Belles Lettres, and on every
branch of philosophy, are daily, and almost hourly,
delivered. Literary societies here hold their meetings ;
while the neighbouring apartments are occupied by
the fashionable impure. The Palais Royal is the
favourite haunt and chosen residence of this miserable
and degraded class of society.

The regulations of the police, with respect to these
unhappy beings, are peculiar. Every prostitute is
compelled to take out a license at the proper bureau,
for which she pays a stipulated sum. Her name, her
age, and her abode, are entered in the books of the
police : once in every month she is visited by a medi-
cal man, appointed for the purpose, who gives her,
or withholds, according to curcumstances, a carte de
santit or bill of health. Should she dare to pursue
her calling without this license and this medical in-
surance, she is liable to fine, imprisonment, and cor-
poral punishment. How far these regulations are
compatible with morality o^* good poUcy — ^how far
they may be pernicious in destroying me salutary, and.

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Tfl£ LUXBMBOURO. 181

too frequently, the principal, restraint on the criminal
indulgence of the passions, — I will not now inquire;
but this is undeniable, that, while in few countries,
licentiousness is so hUle obtrusive as in France, in no
country is her reign so firmly estabhshed, and her
baneful influence so extended through every rank of
society.

If the traveller climbs still higher, he witnesses
more deplorable scenes of depravity. Here he finds
the lower and more disgusting prostitutes ; he is sur-
rounded by sharpers of every description ; and it is
well if he escapes without paying dearly for his
curiositjr.

Such is the Palais Royal. It is a little world. It
comprises in it every character, and almost every
scene that can be imagined, — every thing to kiform
the understanding, and every thing to corrupt the
heart

Palais du Luxembourg, ou Palais de la Chambre

des Pairs,
Palais of the Luxembourg, or Palace of the Chamber
of Peers.
[Rue de Faugirard.} F 5.
Of all the royal palaces in the metropolis, and even
in France, none surpasses the Luxembourg in mag-
nificence, and few have so often changed masters, it
was built in imitation of the Pitti palace at Florence,
and completed in six years by Jacques, Desbrosses,
for Mary de Medicis, widow of Henry IV., on the
site of the hotel of the Due d'Epinay- Luxembourg,
and was successively inhabited by Mademoiselle de
Montpensier and the Duchess of Guise ; ^e latter
sold it to Louis XIV. in 1694, and it was afterwards
the residence of the Duchess of Brunswick and Made-
moiselle d' Orleans. Having been restored to the
crown, Louis XVI. gave it to Monsieur, and during

>d by Google

] 8S 11BB LUXEMfiOUltC^

the Revolution it was converted into a prison. It
-was afterwards occupied by the Senate, and is now
tiie Chamber of Peers.

It forms nearly a square ; the front, towards the
Hue Toiution and the garden, being 360 feet long,
and the other fronts about 300 feet. It consists of
one vast court, surrounded by porticoes, and flanked
by four square buildings, called pavilions.

The grand front of &is fine structure is composed
of one principal bmlding, terminated by large square
pavilions; while a noble pavilion likewise elevates
itself from the centre, crowned by alight and elegant
dome. This dome is composed of the Doric and
Ionic orders ; and ornamented by numerous gigantic
figures, holing wreaths of flowers. The architec-
ture throughout is distinguished by its bold and
masculine character, and by the regularity and beauty
of its proportions. The pediment contains allego^
rical figures relating to commerce, sculptured by
Duret. Towards the garden is a sim-dial supported
W figures in alto-relievo, representing Victory and
Peace, by Espercieux ; and Strength and Secrecy, by
Beauvallet ; those in the back part are Yi^ance and
"War, by Cartellier. The pavilions, at the extremi-
ties, are connected with the body of the building by
low gauges, each supported by nine arcades, wnicn
give light to lai^ corridors, beautifully arched. In
flie centre is an degant pordco ; beneatn which is the
great §ate conducting to a spacious court ; at the
extremity of which is a terrace, ornamented by a
balustrade of white maif>le, and universally admired.

In the right wing of the court is a magnificent
staircase, consisting of 48 steps, each formed by a
single stone, 20 f^t in length. The roof is sup-
ported by 22 Ionic columns, and the whole is oma-
m^ted by statues, tropliies, &c., tastefrdly disposed.
At the extoemities are two bw-reliefs, oy^ Buret,

Digitized by VjOOQli

Digitized by Google

>d by Google

7KB tmsiaovEG. 18S

repr^enting Minerva and Genii offering crowns, and
at the bottom of the staircase is a group of Psyche
and Love, by Delaistre. The statues are, Dessaix> by
Groix, Jun.; Caffarelli, by Corbet; Marceau, by
Dumont ; Joubert, by StouflP; and Kleber, by Ra-
meau. The trophies were sculptured by Hersent

The room for ihe gargom de salle contains statues
of Hercules by Pujet, Epaminondas by Duret, and
Miltiades by Boizot ; and in the Messengers' Rooms
are marble statues of Silence and Prudence by Mou-i
chi and Deseine. The principal apartments, however,
are the Salle de Reunion, Ihe Salle des Stances, or
Chamber of Peers, and the Throne Room.

The Scdle de Reunion is ornamented with a painted
cdling by Lesueur, a portrait of Louis XVIII. by
liefebvre, an allegorical picture representing the
return of that monarch, by Regnault, and Si Lewis
fighting against the Infidels by Oallet.

The Chamber of Peers is a handsome senpdrcular
room, about 80 feet in diameter, adorned witti Cwin-
thian colunms in imitation of marUe, and with the
following statues : Solon, by Roland ; Aristides, by
Cartellier ; Scipio Afiicanus, by Ramey ; Demo-
sthenes, by Pajou ; Cicero, by Houdon ; Lycui^s,
by Foucon; Camillus, by Bridan; Cincinnatus, by
Chaudet; Gato of Utica, by Clodion; Pericles, by
Masson; Phocion, by Delaistre; and Leonidas, l^
Lemot. The seats are arranged in the form of an
amphilbeatre, at the bottom of which is the station
for the person speaking. The president's seat is in
a recess facing me assembly, and before it is a bust
of Louis XVIIL, by Dupatjr. A rich hanging of
blue velvet, and a painted ceiling by Lesueur, add to
the decorations of this room, wmch is illuminated at
night by a splendid chandelier.

Admission during the sittings may be obtained by

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■p

184 THITLtTZBMBOXWO.

writing to M, le Questeur de la chambre des Pcdre^
mt Luxembourg,

The Throne Room is particularly rich, and thtf
ceiling is painted. The central part, by Barthelemy,
represents Henrv IV. guided by Victory ; and at the
extremities are Peace and War, by Callet. The other
jMctorial decorations are by Lesueur.

Several of the other apartments, though divested
of many of the fine specimens of art which once en-
riched tihem, retain much of their primitive splendour.
In a room in the paviUon to the left, towards the
gardens, are some exquisite specimens of painted
velvet, consisting of views of Rome ; and in the ro-
tunda, over the entrance, firom the Rue de Toumon,
is a bathing nymph, by Julien. On the ground-floor,
is the chapel, and a room splendidly decorated with
arabesques, and other paintings by Philip de Cham-
pagne and Poussin. This room was intended for
the reception of the golden book of the French
peerage.

The gallery, or museum, is adorned with a painted
ceiling, representmg the twelve signs of the Zodiac,
by Jordaens, and the rising sun, by Callet, and con-
tains a collection of paintings, uy modem French
masters. The celebrated pictures forming the gal-
lery of Rubens ; the History of St. Bruno, by Le-
sueur ; the Sea views of Vemet, <S*c., have been re-
moved to the Louvre some years.

The Gallery of the Luxembourg is open to the
public on Sunday and Monday, from 10 to 4,
but strangers are admitted every day, except
Saturday, on showing their passports. T/te gal'
lery is not however open when the Chamber of Peers
is sitting, A catcUogue of the pictures may be
boti^ht at the door,

■nie enormous pavilions that project towards the
eardens, are the only objectionable parts in this noble

Digitized by Google

Tai LtTXEMBOUBO. 185

building. Th^y give too heayy and massive an ap-
pearance to that front of the palace. Tlie pavilions
in all the edifices of this period were copied from the
enormous towers with which the Gothic chateaux and
castles were flanked. Desbrosses here too closely
followed his original. The peculiar indented style of
the columns, and of all the ornaments, gives the
building much too castellated an appearance for a
palace. Notwithstanding these trifling defects, the
Luxembourg cannot fail to please; even fit)m the
sohdity of its construction, and likewise from the
symmetry and beautiful arrangement of all its parts,
and that perfect regularity and finished appearance
which is so rarely met with in large edifices.

The fi^nt of the palace on the garden side is not
less pleasing than the grand front ; and the garden
itself begins to lose much of the sombre appearance
that it once possessed, and to correspond in beauty
with the edifice to which it belongs. The principal
walks are luxuriantly ornamented with orange-trees,
tastefully arranged, and presenting picturesque
groups, interspersed with vases and statues frt)m the
antique. A large sheet of water, surrounded by a
terrace, spreads itself in front of the building, and
beyond it is along avenue, leading to the Observatory,
but rising so gradually that the difference of level
(54 feet) between this building and the palace is
scarcely perceptible. Its entrance is adorned by two
lions of white marble, and its extremity is formed by
an iron railing. On the right of the palace is an
ancient wood, and on the left are some new planta-
tions. In this part is a fountain constructed by
Desbrosses, consisting of four Tuscan columns sup-
porting an entablature, above which is a pediment
adom^ with two rivers, sculptured by Duret and
Rameau, when this building was restored by Chal«
grin,

Digitized by God^ 15

186 THBi LVXEMBOHBO.

It would be useless to give an account of the statues
which adorn this garden, as their situation is fre-
quently changed.

If the garden of the Luxembourg is not so magni-
ficent as that of the Tuileries, it is, nevertheless, very
agreeable, and, from its elevated situation, commands
many delightful views of the most distant parts of the
city. The successive additions that have been made
to the garden, have caused it to becomie one of the
most extensdve, as well as one of the most beautiful,
promenades in Paris.

The noble monastery of the ChartreuX, with its
vast dependencies, once occupied the right side of the
garden. The manner in which this territory came
into the possession of the monks is singular and ridi-
culous. The chateau of Vauvert, built by Robert II.,
the son of Hugh Capet, having been abandoned, a
report was propagated, that innumerable demons
had made it their abode. The most frightful forms
were seen, and the most terrific noises were
heard every night. No one dared to approach
the fatal walls after sunset, and tiie inhabitants of
the neighbouring houses fled in terror from their
dwellings.

The monks of the Carthusian monastery of Gen-
tilly, whose desire of aggrandizement overcame their
fears of the mysterious inhabitants of the chateau, or
who, possibly, were already well qualified to give a

food account of the nocturnal revels, petitioned St.
*ouis to grant them the deserted edifice and its do-
mains, pledging themselves to exorcise the fiends,
and to deliver tine neighbourhood from the disturbers
of its repose. They took possession of the chateau
with much imposing solemnity, and the demons were
required to quit for ever the domains which were now
consecrated to the service of God. They heard,
trembled, and obeyed. ^ Neither the vigils of the

jitized by Google

PALACE OP JUSTICE. JflT

ghostly fathers, nor the slumbers of the superstitious
peasants, were again disturbed.

The monastery remained about 600 years ; but
it appeared at its dissolution that the exorcism of
the friars had been effectual. Although the property
again fell into secular hands, and is now devoted to
purposes of pleasure, the fiends that once haunted it
have not dared to re- appear, nor are they heard of
except in the jests of the citizens of Paris, to whom
the tradition is familiar, and by whom it is often re-
counted.

The fountain resembling a grotto, at the entrance
of the garden, should not escape the traveller's at-
tention.

On the vacant spot between the railing of the
Luxembourg garden and that of the Observatory, the
unfortunate Marshal Ney was shot, in 1815.

Palais de Justice, The Palace of Justice.
iRtte de la Barillerie, Me du Palais. '\ F 4

The term Palace is applied to this edifice, because
it was formerly the residence of the kings of France.
It is supposed to have been built by Eudes in the 9th
century, and it was considerably augmented by St.
Louis, who added to it the chamber which yet bears
his name, the hall called the " Great Chamber," and
the Holy Chapel. Philip the Fair almost re-con-
structed it, and it became the usual abode of the
French monarchs. It merely consisted, however,
of several enormous towers, which communicated with
each other by means of long galleries. Some of the
buildings yet remaining on the Quai de THorloge
willgive a sufficient idea of it.

The grand hall is frequently spoken of by the
French historians. The kings there received the
ambassadors of foreign nations^ and it was the scene

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188 PALACE OF JUSTIOB.

of their most splendid entertainments. It was
adorned bjr the statues of the successive monarchs
from the timfi of Pharamond. At the upper end
was a marble table of enormous and almost incredi-
ble dimensions. The princes of the blood were alone
admitted to the honours of this table.

In 1618, the palace was destroyed by fire, and tiie
statues of the kmgs and the magnificent marble table
disappeared for ever.

Desbrosses, the architect of the Luxembourg, was
employed to rebuild the edifice.

An iron palisade, 120 feet in length, incloses an
immense court, surrounded on three sides by build-
ings, called La Coin: du Mai. The centre gate of
the palisade is a curious proof how easily beauty and
effect may be destroyed by multiplicity of ornament.
On the entrance to me court of the Sainte Chapelle
is a bas-relief called Le Serment Civique.

At the bottom of the court is a grand flight of steps,
which gives an air of magnificence to a building other-
wise not remarkable. At the summit of the steps are
four noble Doric pillars, surmounted bjr a balustrade ;
and on the entablatiure are four gigantic upright sta-
tues, representing Justice, Prudence, Fortitude, and
Plenty ; the first two were executed by Lecomte, and
the others by Berruer. This mass of buildings is
crowned by a quadrangular dome, at the lower part of
which are two angels supporting the arms of iVance,
executed by Pajou.

At the bottom of the steps, on each side, are two
arcades, one of which leads to the Concieigerie, and
the other to the Tribunal of Police.

The rest of the palace is constructed of arcades,
supporting two floors of the Doric order, surmounted
by an attic.

A staircase on the right conducts to the grand
hall, which is appropriately called the HaQdfii Pot

Digitized by Google

PALACB OF JUBTIOB. 1 89

Perdus, It- is composed of two immense parallel
naves, arched with stone,- and separated by a range
of arcades. The light is received from enormous win-
dows at the extremities. Although the centre is thus
rendered somewhat obscure, yet this disposition of
the light gives to the hall an air of religious and aw-
ful grandeur.

The Doric order prevails in the decorations of the
hall, and the architecture does honour to the period
in which it was executed. Some puny critics have
™)ken of irregularities and omissions, and have made
the notable discovery, that one side contains a demi-
pilaster less than the other ; but the traveller of taste
will feel the imposing effect of the whole, and do full
justice to the talents of the architect. In 1 825, a tine
statue of Malesherbes, the minister of Louis XVI.,
was erected here by Dumont.

One of the apartments of this hall is now devoted
to the sittings of the Court of Cassation. The deco-
rations were executed by Pevre in 1810. At the end
of the court are the king's throne, and the seats for
the presidents, and on the sides are benches for the
judges. The ground-floor is appropriated to the
counsel and the public, who are separated from each
other by an ornamental railing. In front of the
presidents are the arms of France, and statues of
d'Agufisseau and THopital. There is also a portrait
of tne king. The bas-relief at the entrance of the
court represents Justice.

Over the Galerie Merciere ou Marchande, the
Cour Royale is held. On the staircase which con-
ducts to it is a statue of Law, with this inscription, In
legibzts salus^

The Court of Assizes has its sittings at the ex-
tremity of the gallery called Dauphine.

The first sections of the Civil Tribunal are held on
the side of the Court Lamoignon ; and the four last
around the hall des Pas Perdus.

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100 PALACB OF BOVBBON.

The Cow* des Comptes or Exchequer, if h^ ia a
separate edifice, in the court of La Sainte Chapelle.
It was erected in 1740, from deskns by Gabhel, but
presents nothing particularly wormy of notice. Near
it is a richly ornamented arcade, said to have been
constructed oy J. Groujon, and behind it is the Pri"
fecture de Police.

Some of the galleries are surrounded t^ shops of
confectioners, shoemakers, booksellers, ^. The
oak ceiling deserves attention.

On the side towards the river is the prison of the
Concieigerie, the scene of the most horrible atrocities
in the second year of the Revolution.

The Sainte Chapelle, or Holy Chapel, will be de-
scribed under the head of Religious Edifices.

All the Courts of Justice are open to the public

Palais de Bourbon et Chambre des IHputk.

Palace of Bourbon and Chamber of Deputies.

[Rue de V UniversitL] D 4.

This palace was built by the Duchess of Bourbon,
in 1722, after the designs of Girardini, an Italian
architect. It was afterwards considerably improved
and enlarged by the Wnce of Cond6. It is delight-
fully situated on tiie banks of the Seine, at the foot
of the bridge of Louis XVI., and opposite to the
square of Louis XV. ; and commands a pleasing view
of the Tuileries and the Champs Elys6es.

It was intended to be a country-house more than
a palace, and the character of the edifice on the
river-side accords with this destination.

The entrance to the Prince's apartments is formed
by a single flight of steps. Formerly nothing could
exceed them in splendour ; mirrors, gilding, painting,
embellished every part, but they" are now remark-
able only for their conventence and beautiful pro-
portions.

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FALAOB of BODRBOl^. 19l

In Ihe bed-room are two pictures representing the
Battiie of Rocroy, where the great Cond6 commanded,
by Casa Nuova, and that of Nordlingen, by Lepaon ;
on the mantel-piece are bronze busts of Cona6 and
Tur^me : here also may be seen a portrtdt of Cond6
at the age of 22, when he gained the battle of Rocroy,
and another of the same mat general at a more aa-
Tanced age. This room sdso contains a superb piece
of furniture, comprising a mineralo^cal collection
|2;iTen to the Prince de Condfe in 1772 by the king of
Sweden.

In the Billiard Room are two pictures, the Battle
of Friburg, by Casa Nuova, and that of Lens, by
Lepaon, together with a beautiful piece of Gobelin
tapestry representing the Anger of Achilles. One df
the mantel-pieces is adom^ with a small statue of
Turenne, and another of Cond6 throwing his baton
into the hnes of Friburg. On the second mantel-
piece are Ba3rard and Du Guesclin.

On the mantel-piece of one of the other rooms are
white marble busts of Cond6 and Turenne, by Coy-'
sevox, uid between them is a cast of the face of
Henry IV. formerly in the Conservatoire des Arts :
in the comers of the room are busts of the late Prince
de Cond6, ajid of the Duke of Bourbon, by Deseine.

The garden, composed of parterres, groves, bowl-
ing-green, &c., is terminated by a terrace, more than
300 feet in length. It overlooks the Quai d^Orsai,
and the view from it is one of the most beautiful and
varied that Paris affords. A considerable part of the
city, a long reach of the Seine, the garden and palace
of the Tuileries, the Pont Louis XVI. and Hace
Louis XV., the Champs Elys^s, the road to Ver-
sailles, and the villages of Chaillot, Passy, and Au-
teuil, are distinctly seen. The stables are capable of
eontaining 250 horses.

Yfhm Louis XYL erected the bridge that bear

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1 92 PALACE OP BOURBONf

his name, immediatel3r before one of the pavilions of
this palace, the necessity of raising the neighbouring
ground destroyed much of the beauty of tfis edifice,
and causing it to appear as if it were sunk in a val-
ley, gave to the too diminutive proportions of the
buUdmg an air of insignificance. The prince, to
whom the palace belonged, perceived and lamented
this, and determined to enlarge and almost rebuild
the edifice. But the Revolution ordered it otherwise.
The palace of Bourbon was among the first that was
ravaged and mutilated, and it remained unoccupied
and unappropriated until the Council of Five liun-
dred was established in it.

The Chamber of Deputies^ formerly the Palais du
Corps L^gislatif, adjoins and originaUy formed part
of this p^ace. Its principal en&ance towards the
Rue de Bourbon combines simpUcity and grandeur.
It consists of one noble portico, with a colonnade of
the Corinthian order on each side. The first court,
280 feet long and 162 broad, is surrounded by build-
ings of no distinct character, but the second, or court
of honour, 140 feet by 96, presents several edifices of
pleasing proportions. At the extremity is a portico
with eight Corinthian columns, erected oy M. Gisors,
which was formerly the principal entrance to the
Chamber of Deputies. The figures on the pedestals
before the interior portico are Minerva, by BridaA,
jun., and Strength by Espercieux. Those supporting
the dial were executed by Fragonard.

On the opposite sides of the square are two halls,
dedicated to reace and Victory. These commimicate
on one side with the apartments of the palace, and on
the other with two stone staircases of exquisite work-
manship, leading to the upper part of the Chamber
of Deputies.

The fi-ont towards the bridge of Louis XVI. is a
magnificent peristyle, erected by Poyet It consists

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PAI^JLCE OF BO0BBON.' 1^3

of twelve Corinthian columns, surmounted by a well-
proportioned pediment. It would have been consi-
derably improved, had its pillars been fluted and more
massive, and had the stone of which it is constructed
been of a softer white. In the pediment is a bas-relief
sculptured by Fragonard, representing Law seated
on the Charter, and resting on Strength and Justice ;
on her left Peace is bringing back Commerce under
the figure of Mercury. Behind the group are the
two rivers Seine and Mame mingling then- waters,
and on the other side Abundance is advancing under
the auspices of Law, followed by the Arts and Sci-
ences. The comer is occupied by a figure of the
Rhone. The ascent to this peristyle is formed by a
noble flight of steps, at the foot of which are two
colossal statues, Minerva, by Rolland, and Themis,
by Houdon. On the exterior are seated statues of
Sully, by Beauvallet, Colbert, by Dumont, L'Hopital,
by Deseine, and D'Aguesseau, by Foucou.

The Hall or Chamber of Representatives was built
in the third year of the Revolution, on the site of
some of the apartments of the old palace.

At the foot of the bridge of Louis XVI. is an
avenue for the use of the deputies ; and nearly facing
the Rue de Bourbon, is the way to the public gallery.

The hall is a very handsome room, m the form of
a half- oval, lighted from the roof, and disposed hke
an amphitheatre. It is ornamented with six statues,
representing Lycurgus, Solon, Demosthenes, Brutus,
Cato, and Cicero. Under the president's chair are
two figures in bas-relief, of History and Fame, by
Lemot, and over it are placed busts of Louis XVI.,
XVIL, XVIIL, and Charles X., by Deseine.
Immediately below the president are stools for the
huissiers, and one or two benches, covered with blue
leather, are appropriated to such of the king's
ministers as may have occasion to attend the assem-
S

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Id4 PALAOB OP BOCRBOK.

bly. Above is a gallery for the public, capable
of containing 300 persons. The walls are orna-
mented with piates of copper gilt, and the ceihn^
is decorated with sculpture. The great doors are
of mahogany, covered with gold stars, and the
door posts are marble, richly sculptured. The pave-
ment is also worthy of notice, being laid out in
marble compartments, and adorned with allegorical
figures.

The members do not rise and speak firom theii*
places, but the person who wishes to address the as-
sembly is obliged to cross the floor, and ascend a kind
of rostrum or tribune, a ceremony which must tend
much to damp the speaker's fire. The doors open at
half-past eleven, and the president takes the chair at
one o'clock.

Adjoining the hall is the robing-chamber, con-
structed in what was formerly cSled the Pavilion
Valois. It communicates with the hall l^ a gallery.
To the left of the president is the Saloon of Liberty,
fwmeriy appropriated to those who had petitions to

E resent ; and to the right is the Chamber of Con-
jrences, in which is a portrait of Louis XVIII., by
P. Guerin. Here also is a bust, by Raggi, of the
Duke de Berry, whose last words to the Marshals of
France are inscribed beneath, J'avais ^spM verser
mon sang pour la France. Opposite to it is a
statue of Henry IV., on the pedestal of which is
the termination of his address to the authorities at
Rouen, Le violent amour que je parte h mes
sujets me fait tout trouver aise et honorable. "Hie
pictures in this room represent Eustache de St Pierre
and the citizens of Calais; the president Molet
resisting the factious ; the Death of Du GuescHn,
and that of Bayard.

The Guard-room and the King's Saloon have been
recently constructed. The totmer is rwhly decorated

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nm toxmiu 195

with palntiiigs and sculpture, amongst which are two
bas-rehefs, representing Henry IV. distributing re-
wards to warriors and agriculturists, and Francis I.
^ing encouragement to the arts and sciences ; and
ue latter is adorned with yarious warlike emblems,
and the names of all the battles in which the French
armies have been victorioas since the revolution. On
the mantel- piece is a very curious dock, by Lepaute ;
and in this room also may be seen portraits of
Louis XVIII. and the Duchess of Ai^ulSme by
Gros, as well as the chair in which the king sits at
the o|>ening of the sessions, and which was formerly
occupied by Buonaparte. Fleurs-de-hs have now
taken place of the eagles which formerly adorned it.

On the staircase b^ween the Guard-room and the
Hall are two groups in bronze executed by Keller, in
the time of Louis XIV. One of the Laocoon, and
the other of Arria and Fetus.

The Chamber of Deputies and the a/^otning apart'
mente may be seen every day by inquiring for a
gar^n de salle; and during the sessions, tickets for
hearing the debates may be procured, bv uniting to
M, le Questeur de la Chambre des D^uth, au
Pakds Bourbon,

Musie Royal, ou Palais du Louvre.

Royal Museum, or Palace of the Louvre.

[Adjoining the Tuileriea en the East,]

F4,

Much uncertainty exists respecting the derivation of

the name of this magnificent palace. Some have

derived it from Lupara, a wolf, because it was

formerly surrounded by a thick forest, much infested

by wolves. Others have derived it from the Saxon

word Lower, a chateau; and others, with more

probability, from the ancient Gaulic word Ouvre,

S 2

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196 ^HB LOtTTIlE.

now written oeuvre, signifying the beauty of its ar-
chitecture, and equivalent to the modem expression

It is the most ancient of the royal palaces. It
existed in the time of Dagobert, when it was without
the walls, and used as a countxy-house by the kings
of France. Having been destroyed by the Normans,
it was rebuilt by Louis the Youngs and afterwards
repaired by Phiup Augustus, who surrounded it with
towers and a moat.

It formerly contained an immense isolated tower
in the centre of one of its courts, much celebrated
in French history. In this tower all the feudatories
of the crown were compelled to assemble at stated
times, to pay homage to their liege lord, and to
renew their oaths of fidelity ; and the dungeons of
this tower were their prison, in case of disobedience
or rebellion. This strange building gave to the
whole of the palace so sombre an appearance, and
so many sad and fiightful histories were attached to
it, and related of it, ttiat many of the kings refused to
make the Louvre their residence. The tower was
completely destroyed in 1 528.

The court of the Louvre presents a perfect square,
1600 feet in circumference. Three of the facades
were constructed by Perrault. They are of the Co-
rinthian order, and each has three projecting masses,
with a triangular pediment surmounting that in the
centre. The sculptures in the pediments are by
different artists. The bas-relief on the N. side, by
Le Sueur, represents Minerva encouraging the
sciences. Tliat on the S. side, by M. llamey, depicts
the genius of France replacing the mischiefs of war
by the arts of Legislation, Marine, and Conunerce ;
and that on the E. side exhibits a sculpture by
M. Coustou, representing the arms of France sup-
ported by two allegorical figures. The W. pedi-

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Digitized by GaOgle

THE LOUVRE. 107

ment contains a warlike trophy, executed by M,
MonpelUer.

The fourth facade, executed by Lescot, is of the
Composite order, crowned by an attic. It is much
adnured for its pure and elegant architecture, and
for the fine execution of its windows, fiiezes, door-
posts, &c. The ornaments and figures are ex-
quisitely sculptured ; the bas-reliefe over the doors
are by Go\ijon; and those over the pediments of
the small projections, by Ponce, a Florentine sculp-
tor; they represent Piety, Justice, Victory, Fame,
and Power.

TJie pavilion over the gate is decorated with eight
gigantic statues, by Sarrazin, and surmounted by a
dome. The sides present three projecting buildings,
adorned with beautiful sculptures. That in the first
pediment, by M. Chaudet, represents Legislation as
a female holding the tables of the law ; and bdow,
in the attic, are figures of Moses, Numa, Isis, and
Manco Capac, the Peruvian legislator.

In the secdnd pediment M. RoUand has r^re-
sented Victory and Abundance crowning a shield,
on which is the emblem of Eternity ; and in the attic
below, are Strength and Wisdom, and allegorical
figures of the Nile and the Danube. The third
pediment, near the comer of the court, also con-
tains a bas-relief, by M. Chaudet, exhibiting Heroic
Poetry as a female holding a trumpet aaid a lyre, and
ha* in the attic beneath. Homer, Virgil, and two
Gemi.

The front which the Louvre presents to the river
is plain and noble, and has a pediment, containing
a bas-relief, by M. Frontin, representing two Muses
bearing the attributes of Art and Science, resting
on the arms of France.

The eastern firont is the famous colonnade, the
Doblest monument of the era of XiOuis XIV. An

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198 THE LOUVRE.

Italian artist named Bernini, and supposed to be the
most skilM architect of the age, was sent for at a
considerable expense to erect it. He soon pretended
that the climate of France disagreed with him. It
was whispered that he found himself unequal to the
task, and a physician of the name of Perrault under-
took and completed it.

It is 525 feet in length, and is composed of two
peristyles, and three projecting buildings on aground-
floor, which form one continued basement. The
lateral projecting buildings are adorned by six pilas-
ters, and two columns of the Corinthian order,
while that in the centre is composed of eight co-
lumns, and crowned with a pediment, on which is
a bas-rehef, by M. Cartellier, representing Victory
in a car, distributing crowns. Above, in a trian-
gular pediment, is a beautiful bas-relief, executed
by Lemot, in 1811. The bust of Louis XIV. oc-
cupies the highest part : Minerva is placing it on a
pedestal, and History is writing the following words
underneath : " Ludovico Magno." Well-executed
figures of the Muses fill the remainder of the com-
position.

The general appearance of the whole is indis-
putably grand and ma,jestic. It is, however, open
to much criticism; the substruction on which it
stands is too high in proportion to the elevation of
the colonnade. The piuars are coupled, which
destroys the proportion between them and the in-
tercolumniations. The shafts are too thin for their
length; and the heavy masses at the ends and in
the centre, throw an air of gloominess over the
whole fabric. The folding-gates in the centre, con-
structed by Buonaparte, are of bronze, and are
splendidly ornamented.

The architecture of the celebrated gallery which
connects the Louvre with the Tuileries is the same

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THE LOUYRB. 199

as that of the pavilions of the Tuileries, without the
attic, but disfigured by numberless pediments, al-
ternately triangular and curvilinear. Towards the
middle the style changes, and, instead of the single
Corinthian, three different and whimsical Composite
forms are introduced, to the great detriment of the
architectural appearance. Tnis gallery was begun
by order of Henry IV., and its execution afterwards
entrusted to Duj)6rac, the king's architect. It was
continued by Louis XIII. and finished by Louis XIV.
Buonaparte, wishing to complete the square, began,
in 1808, the communication on the opposite side, and
had erected more than a third of it at the period of
his dethronement. The work is still carried on.

The interior of the Louvre comprises several
apartments for residence, as well as those for the
King's museum of painting and sc\ilpture, which
will be described in its proper place. See Royal
Museum.

. The vestibule under the grand gallery contains
two bas-reliefs, which were executed in the time of
Charles IX., and formerly adorned two pediments
of ttie Louvre. To the left is a gallery called Hall
of the French, on account of the marble statues of
illustrious men which it contains. These statues
are, the great Cond6, by Holland ; Turenne, by Pa-
jou ; Tourville, by Houdon ; Duquesne, by Monnot ;
Luxenibourg, by Mouchy; Vauban, by Bridan;
Dugonimier, by Chaudet; Custine, by Moitte;
Catmat, by Dejoux; and Caffarelli, by Masson.
Over the doors are bas-reliefs, by Petitot ; and a
statue of Victory. To the rigjit of the vestibule
are, an inner vestibule, a guard-room, and a wait-
ing-room.

At the ends of these two wings are stairs, those
on the right leading to the private, and those on the
left to the state, apartments. They are adorned

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900 THE AAOSfilSHOP's FALAGE.

1/rith eight Corin<Jiian columns, and with bas-reliBfir,
In front of the window, on the left staircase, are
placed Justice and Strength, by Gerard, and on the
left, two warriors, by Cafiamart : on the right. Agri-
culture and Commerce, by Taunay; and opposite.
Genii of the Arts and Sciences, by Fortin. At the
top of this staircase, is Ajax, by Dupaty ; and of
the other, Aristeus, by Bosio. On the nght staircase
aare, Vulcan and Fame, by Dumont ; Neptune and
Ceres, by Bridan ; Jupiter and Juno, by Chardinv ;
Fcntune, and a female surrounded by the gifts of the
blind goddess, by Montony.

The apartments on the first floor of the Louvre
towards the Seine, form, as far as the king's rooms,
an uninterrupted suite, connected together by the
^and gallery of the museum. This splendid ran^
IS more than a quarter of a mile in length, and is
certainly unique, as to extent and disposition.

On the ground-floor of the Old Louvre is a Museum
of French Sculpture, and the Museum of Antiquities,
the entrance to whidh is in the Place du Museum.
In the Marshals' Galleiy is a plaster cast of the statue
of Henry IV., which adorns the Pont Neut

Palais Arcki^scopal, The Archbishop's Palace.
[Rue de FEveche, near Notre Dame.} G 5.

A MODERN pavilion on each side, with an iron
railing, forms the entrance to the first court of this
palaee, situated on the south of the cathedral. The
gate is ornamented with two Ionic columns, sur«
mounted by a semicircular pediment. In the second
court stands the old palace, which presents a beau«
tiful facade, built by Louis XV., and contains an
elegant chapel, ornamented with stucco. On the
east it is augmented by a new, but neither magni-
fioent nor defflftit building. The staircase c(mm

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PAL AG B OF THB UBOION OF HONOUR. 901

dactin^ to the principal apartments, which are very
splendid, is much celebrated. It was constructed by
Desmaisons, in 1772.

The situation on the banks of the river, and the
view which it commands towards the east, are pecu-
liarly fine.

It is a curious circumstance, that, in the hall of
this very palax^e, the National Assembly held that sit-
ting at which all the possessions of the clergy were
declared to be national property.

The interior of this palace is splendidly iitted up,
and contains state apartments for the king, when he
yisits it, a suite for the Archbishop, and rooms for his
coadjutor. In one of the rooms is a beautiful ivory
crucifix, brought from the Brazils by Dugay Trouin,
and in another is a portrait of Cardinal Talleyrand,
Archbishop of Paris, who died in 182] .

It is difficult to obtain permission to see this
palace. The Archbishop requires application to be
made to him by letter, and no person is admitted
when he is from home.

Palais de la Legion dHonneur. Palace of the
Legion of Honour.

[Formerly Hotel de Salm. Rue de Bourbon.'] E 4.

The Hotel de Salm, built a little before the Revo-
lution, by Rousseau, was one of the most elegant
edifices which Paris contained. Its only defect was,
that it resembled some public building rather than
the house of an individual. The purpose to which it
is now devoted has completely removed this trivial
objection.

Toward the Rue de Bourbon it presents a tri-
umphal arch, flanked by a colonnade of the Ionic
order, terminated by two handsome lodges, the attic
of which is adorned with bas-reliefs, by RoUand.

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909 FiUOB or tna wtm amtu^

This indoses a spacious court, at the bottom <^
which is the grand front of the palace. It consists
of a noble portico, of the Corintnian order, on each
side of wMch is a colonnade of the Ionic order.
The front towards the quai d'Orsai is by no means
so imposing, consisting only of a semi-circular centre
and two plain wings. The principal saloon elevates
itself in the form of a rotunda, the cupola of which
is enriched with some exquisite paintings, descriptiTe
of the establishment, of the legion ; and round the
saloon will be placed the statues of those deceased
members, who may be deemed worthy of that dis-
tinction. The apartments are adorned with elegant
simplicity.

The palace may he viewed, by applicaiion to the
porter, early in the morning,

Palais des Beaux Arts, ou de timtitut. Palace of
the Fine Arts, or, of the Institute.
[Qaai Conti, opposite the Pont des Arts*] F 4.
This edifice, erected by order of the Cardinal Ma-
zarine, was loi^ known by the name of " College of
the Four Nations," because it was designed by its
noble founder to receive sixty pupils of uie four na-
tions conquered by Louis XIV. The ashes of the
cardinal repose in the church, near the sanctuary.
It is now appropriated to the use of the Institute, or
the Royal Academy.

The palace was erected in 1662, by Dorbay, from
designs by Leveau. It is of a senod-circular form,
composed of two pavilions, two ranges of buildings
flanking them, and a portico of the Corinthian order
in the centre surmounted by a much-admired dome.
Some exquisite groups by Desjardins ornament the
portico.

In the first court on the left is the Mazariae Li.

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PALAIS d'ELTSEE BO0RBON. 203

braty and that of the Academy, and in the next
court is the School of the Fine Arts, and the
Cabinet of Architecture.

The ancient church, or chapel, having been con-
verted into a hall, is now appropiiated to the sittings
of the Academy. The seats for the members are
placed in a serai-circular form on each side of the
hall, and that for the president is adorned with rich
green velvet, sprinkled with silver hlies, and sur-
mounted by a marble bust of the king, by Bosio.

The hall and the adjacent rooms contain the fol-
lowing statues : Bossuet and Descartes, by Pajou ;
Fenelon, by Lecomte ; Sully, by Mouchi ; Pascal,
by Pajou ; Dalembert andRoUin, by Lecomte ; Cor-
neille and Moliere, by Caifieri ; La Fontaine and Le
Poussin, by Julien ; Montansier, by Mouchi ; Mole,
by Gois the elder; Montaigne, by Stouf; Montes-
quieu, by Clodion; Racine, by Boizot; and Cas-
sini, by Moitte.

In one of the ante-chambers is a fine Mosaic, by
Lecomte, who was occupied on it ten years.

See Royal Academy.

Palais d'Elysie Bourbon,
[Rue du Faubourg St. Honore.] D 5.

This palace, remarkable for its luxurious elegance,
was built by the Comte d'Evreux, in 1718. The
voluptuous Madame de Pompadour aftei-w ards pos-
sessed it. It next became the appointed residence of
the foreign ambassadors extraordinary. In 1773 it
was purchased by the financier Beaujon, who con-
siderably' embellished it, and shortly after it came
into the possession of the Duchess of Bourbon.

During the early years of the Revolution, the
government printing-office was establisbed in this
palace. It afterwards belonged to Murat, who
yielded it to the solicitations of Buonaparte, to whom

jitizedbyGoOgli

S04 PALAIS D*fiLTSEB fiOURBON.

it owes all the decorations of the interior. During
the first visit of the allied monarchs, it was the resi-
dence of the emperor of Russia. On the return of
Buonaparte from Elba, it became his favourite abode,
and it received him after his escape from the fatal
field of Waterloo. At his final departure, it became
the habitation of his conqueror; and the duke of
Wellington established himself there. It was after-
wards Sie residence of the late due de Berry, and
has, since his death, been appropriated to the due de
Bordeaux.

The gardens are large and well laid out, and the
view from them, extenmng over the Champs Elys6es,
is very interesting. Persons are admitted to walk in
them, by tickets.

The rooms are splendidly furnished, and are orna-
mented with numerous pictures, principally of the
Flemish school.

Strangers are allowed to view them on Thursdays
from II to 3, and may gain admission by writing to
the Marquis de Sassenay, at the palace; or to M,
Cucheti, at the Petit Hotels Palais d'Elys^e Bourbon,
who in a few days will return a ticket for four
persons.

Visiters are shown into tlie Apartments of the late
Duke, the Summer Apartments of the Duchess, and
the Winter Apartments of her Royal Highness.
The Apartments of the late Duke are on the ground-
floor. The Salon feuille morte is so called from the
colour of the tapestiy ; it contains, amon^t other
pictures, a very fine Tavern Scene byTeniers, two
candelabras of "porphyry and bronze, and a superb
time-piece by Lepaute. The Crimson Saloon also
contams some good pictures, particularly the Villa^
Fair by Wouvermans. The Duke's Bed-room, is
adorned with an exquisite painting by Jan Steeu,
two pictures by Mieris, representing Children at

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PALAIS I>*£LI8BE BOURBON. S05

Play, a bust of the late Duke, &c. The most re-
markable pictures in the Toilet-room are, a portrait
of a Lady holding a palette, by Miens, and the
Peace of Munster ; there are also several Etruscan
vases, and antiquities found at Herculaneum and
Pompeii. The Library is also ornamented with
pictures, the principal of which are two by Schalk
and G. Dow, showmg the effect of light ; a Naval
Combat, by Backhuysen ; Cattle, by P. Potter ; and
a Hunting Piece, by Wouvermans. The Silver Sor
loon is so called from being richly ornamented with
that metal : the visiter may also notice here several
landscapes by Ruysdael and Van Berghem ; interiors
of churches, by Neefs ; dead animals, by Weenix ;
and some fine specimens by Steen, Mieris, and Vemet.
In the centre of the room is a table, on which is a
curious mosaic.

The Summer Apartments of the Duchess, or
Apartments of Honour^ are separated from those of
the Duke by an ante-chamber. The JVark-room is
richly adorned with tapestry, and contains a beau-
tiful musical time-piece representing the Fall of
Phaeton. The Bed-room is remariiably elegant, and
in the Grand Saloon are four candelabras of porphyry
and bronze, two large vases of Swedish granite, ana
a beautiful statue of Marius. The Dining-room
contains four views of the Seine, the Tiber, the Nile,
and the Rhine.

The Winter Apartments of tJie Duchess are not
so siunptuous as the precedmg, though comfortable
and elegant. In the Bed-room is a splendid cabinet.
Under the peristyle between the Sunmier and
Winter Apartments, is a good statue of the Apollo
Belvidere.

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806 tHB TSUfPLX.

Patau du Temple. Palace of the Temple.

[Rue du Temple, No. 80.] G S.

Op this edifice, which was bmlt by the Templars
about the middle of the twelfth century, there remains
only the palace of the Grand Prior. It was cele-
brated in the last century for the suppers of the
Grand Prior of Vendome, at which Voltaire, La-
mothe, Fontenelle, and all the literati of the ag^
used to assemble. It is now a convent of Benedic-
tines, and has a neat chapel.

Five hundred thousand francs have lately been
expended in repairing and enlarging it.

Its enbrance is decorated by isolated columns of
the Ionic order, and a spacious court conducts to the
principal building, in which elegance and conveni-
ence are united. The front is adorned with eight
Ionic coupled columns, ovar which are four stone
figures, r^resenting Justice, by Dumont ; Hope, by
Lesueur; Abundance, by Foucou; and Plrudence,
by Boichot.

The garden behind this palace formerly contained
the tower in which the unfortunate Lewis XVI. was
confined. Here also he made his wiH, and took
leave of his family.

Palais de la Duchesse de Bourbon, Palace of the

Duchess of Bourbon.

[Rue de farennes,}

This is a tastefiil edifice, erected by Brongniard, and
deli^tfiiHy situated.

Hotel des Gardes du Corps du Roi» Hotel of the

King's Body-Guard.

[Quat d'OrsaL] E 4.
This beautiful hotel stands on the quay, opposite to
the Tuileries. It is the effect of the wh^e which

Digitized by Google

PALACB OV TAB WARM BlTHS. S07

pleases, rattier than the beauty of anyparticulflr part;
tor its long front presents no otl^r remai^able orna-
ment than the arms of France, executed in relief,
above the principal gate. The escutcheon is sup-
ported by two fine female iiffures, executed oy
Taunay. One represents Fame plowing a trumpet,
and holding a «rown ; the other, France with ner
left hand on a sceptre, while her right incloses a
branch of laurel.

There is another Hotel des Gardes, No. 128, Rue
de Grenelle, St. Germain.

Palais des Thermes. Palace of the Warm Baths.
[ Rue de la Harp^*] F 5.

Lbt not our readers be surprised that we rank this
little, but precious, relique of antic[uity, among the
palaces of the metropolis. Inconsiderable as it now
appears, it was once the residence of the Roman
emperors, and in later times the chosen habitation of
the kings of France. It is supposed to have been
buiLt and inhabited by Julian the Apostate about the
vear 357. There remains only a noble hall roofed
by a lofty arch, much admired by the antiquary.

The hall is 58 feet long, 56 wide, and 40 in height.
A Is^ window in the form of an arcade enlightens
it Tixe arch, like those of aU the Roman buildings,
is composed of bricks and stone, cemented by a
mortar which modem ingenuity has not yet equaUed.
For many revolving ages it supported a garden, the
mould of which was at least foiu* feet thick ; and
although this was constantly moistened by the rain,
and by artificial means, not the least damp penetrated
the vault. Beneath is a double row of caves or
vaults, nine feet in diameter, the intention of which
is not known. These ruins were lately occupied by
a cooper, but have been purchased by the French
government for the reception of the monuments of

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SOS THE ADMIRALTY.

antiquily, from the Petits Augustins. The garden
has been removed from the roof, and a covering
erected, so as to afford a view of the arches beneath.
Th&se ruins may be visited on appHcationto the
Gardien, upon the spot,

LAmiraut^, the Admiraltv, formerly the Garde
Meuble.
[Place de Louis Xf.] D 3.
This edifice adorns the north side of the square, and
was built by GabrieUe in 1 768. On sub- basements,
pierced by arcades, two peristyles elevate themselves,
formed of isolated columns of the Corinthian order.
Above the colonnade is a balustrade, and the whole
front is richly embellished with the greatest variety
of sculpture. Next to the Louvre, it presents the
most magnificent fa9ade of any of the public edi-
fices of Paris.

This building was formerly the Garde Meuble, but
is now occupied by the Minister of the Marine and
Colonies, and a telegraph is erected on its summit.

The Garde Meuble, or Roi/cU Wardrobe^ is now
situated No. 6, Rue des Champs Elys6es, where the
antiquary, as well as the general tourist, will be
gratified by seeing a splendid coUection of jewellery,
two curious tables of inlaid work, several beautifiil
vases, rich cut-glass, an orrery, &c. &c.

Tickets of admission may be obtained by address^
ing a letter to Monsieur le Baron de Ville d'Avfay,
au Garde Meuble.

VObservatoire, The Observatory.

[Rue du Faubourg Saint Jacques, near the Barricre

d'Enfer.] E F 6.

This building is situated at the extremity of a broad
avenue leading from the gardens of the Luxembourg.
It was erected by Perraiut, under the great Colbert,

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THB OBSERVATORY. 309

in 1667. Its exterior is grand, and its aspect im-
posing. The simplicity of its design, and the har-
mony of its parts, announce a public edifice of the
first order, though erected on a superficies too con-
tracted.

The principal mass is a square with octagonal
towers at two of the angles, and a projecting build-
ing on the opposite side. It stands exactly north
and south, and a meridional line runs through the
great haJl. It is completely vaulted throughout, and
has neither wood nor iron in its whole construction.
The north hall is adorned with paintings, represent-
ing the seasons and the signs oi the zc^diac, together
with portraits of celebrated astronomers. Here is
also a marble statue of Cassini, executed by Moitte,
in 1810. In this edifice is preserved a circular uni-
versal chart, designed upon the pavement of one of
the large chambers by Chazelle and S6dillan.

On me ground-floor is a geometrical staircase,
which leaves a vacuity or well 170 feet deep, and was
formerly used for viewing the heavenly bodies in the
day tune, a corresponding opening having been left
in the various floors and roof of the edifice. It was
constructed to measure the acceleration of falling
bodies. Connected witli this well are a series of
caverns for experiments on congelation, &c. They
communicate with the subterranean galleries formed
by the ancient quarries, and extending under all that
paart of Paris in the vicinity of the Rue St. Jacques,
Rue de laHarpe, and RueToumon. The only other
entrance to these extraordinary excavations is at Val
de Grace. Many of the stalactites, formed by the
water filtering through the rocks, are of an enormous
size, and very beautifiil. Many parts of the roof
arc obliged to be supported by pillars to bear the
immense weight of buildings above, and in one spot,
immediately under the church of St. Jwsques, ar«

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210 THE TOWN-HiLL.

curious representations in clay of several forta in
India. It is dangerous to enter these caverns without
a guide, and extremely difficult to procure admission,
as none but the inspectors appointed by the govern-
ment can grant this privilege.

In the Salle des Secrets is a singular phenomenon
in acoustics : if a person whisper against one of the
pillars, he may be distinctly heard by another at tiie
opposite pillar, though not by any one in the centre
of the room.

. Three astronomers are always resident on the
spot, who have access to a complete astronomical
library, and who are furnished with a superb astro-
nomical apparatus. Here, likewise, is an anemo-
meter indicating the direction of the wind ; a pluvio-
meter for measuring the quantity of rain that falls
annually at Paris, and a mural circle constructed by
order of the Due d'AngoulSme. It is at this build-
ing that the Bureau des Longitudes holds its sittings,
and makes its observations.

In addition to this grand observatory, there are
five others of considerable consequence, namelv, in
the Royal College ; at the Hotel Cluny ; at the iPan-
tiieon ; at the MUitary School ; and at the former
monastery of the Capuchin Friars, in the Rue St
Honor6.

This place commands a fine view of Paris and its
environs.

. The observatory is open to strangers every day
from 9 to 4.

Hotel de Ville. The Town-Hall.
IP lace de Grhe.] G 4.
This edifice was commenced in 1533, after the
designs of an Italian architect, named Boccaridora,
sometimes called Cortona; but has been sevmai
times repaired, particularly in 1801,

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. THE EXCHANOE. 211

: The building is regular in its architecture, conve-
nient for the purpose for which it was designed,
and rich in beauty and ornament. A statue of
Henry IV. in bas-relief is placed over the principal
entrance, but that entrance is far too small for the
great extent of the hotel. At the end of the court
is a bronze statue of Louis XIV. by Coysevox.

The apartments are extensive, handsome, and com-
modious. The principal hall is a vast parallelogram,
ornamented with Corinthian columns, and very
richly furnished. It contains fine portraits of Louis
XVI. and XVIII. and a small equestrian statue of
Henry IV. The clock, by Lepaute, is a very cele-
brated piece of mechanism, and is illuminated at
night, so that the hour may constantly be seen.

The Hotel de ViUe is worthy the traveller's atten-
tion, on account of its antiquity, and the extraordi-
nary scenes which it has witnessed. When Louis
Xvl. was brought from Versailles, he was exhibited
to the populace from one of the windows of this
mansion. Hither Robespierre retreated after he had
been outlawed. In front of the Hotel de Ville, on
tiie Place de Greve, where public executions still
take place, is the famous lamp-iron, and within the
building is preserved the yet more celebrated guil-
lotine.

The Hotel de Ville may be seen every day before
three o'clock, except on Sundays,

La Bourse, The Exchange.
[Rue des FiUes St, Thomas,] F 3.

This noble building comprises the Tribunal of Com-
merce and the Exchange. It was commenced in 1 808,
and is certainly one ofthe largest and most beautiful
edifices of the kind in Europe.

It is a long square, of a noble yet simple archi-
tecture, raised on a sub-basement so as to overlook

Digitized by Google

S19 TBS To^r^omoE,

the adiacrat btdldings. Sixty-four columns of the
Corintiuan order, which reach the second story, sur-
roimd the building, and form a piazza, ornamented
with bas-relie& relating to commerce. The piincipal
front is adorned with a peristyle of fourteen columns,
the ascent to which is formed by a flight of sixteen
steps. Behind the peristyle is a large vestibule lead*
ing to the hall, a spadousroom alK)ut 116 feet long
and 75 broad, capable of containing 2000 persons.

The Tribunal of Commerce occupies the upper
story, and the whole is disposed with great taste.
The architects were M. Brongniard and M. Labarre«

The hours of business are from two till five o'clock
daily.

rOfflce des Posies, The Post-Office.
[Rue Jean Jacques Routseau,] F 8.

This is the Greneral Post- Office, from which all let-
ters are sent to the departments and to foreign coun-
tries. At this office also the mails arrive, and hence
the letters are distributed.

The office for the reception of paid letters is open
from 8 in the morning till 7 in the evening, and letters
put in before 2 o'clock go off the same day.

Unpaid letters for the departments put in before
5 o'clock go off the same evening, except on Sun-
days and rete-days, when the latest hour is 2 o'clock.

The mails set out every day at half-past 6.

The office for the conveyance of periodical works
is open from 8 o'clock tiU noon.

llie Dead Letter Office is open from 8 o'clock till
8 in the evening. Refused letters are deposited here
^.t the end of three months.

The office of posts restante is open from 8 in the
morning till 8 in the evening, but persons must bring
their passports or permis de s^our, in order to obtain
their letters.

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THE POST-OFFtCB. S13

The post days for England are Mondays, Wednes-
days, Thursdays, and Saturdays. All letters must
be paid to the coast, and put m before two o'clock.
Smgle letters to England, 14 sous, from England 21
sous, but as the postage is charged according to
weight, a letter on thick paper will sometimes cost
36 and even 48 sous.

Letters arrive from England on Fridays, Satur-
days, Sundays, Monda}rs, and sometimes Tuesdays.
There are nine receiving-houses, where letters for
foreign parts can be put in, namely :—
No. 12, Rue Lenoir StHonore,
No. 52, Rue des Toumelles,
No. 7, Rue du Grand Chantier,
No. 13, Rue Bergere,
No. 24, Rue Duphot,
No. 20, Rue Vemeuil,
No. 8,. Rue Conde, Faubom-g St. Germain,
No. 35, Rue des Foss6s St. Victor, and
No. 10, Rue Coq Heron.
These offices are open from 8 in the morning till
4 in the afternoon, from Octi 1st to March 31st, and
till 5 o'clock at other times in the year.

Receiving-houses for letters in raris and its envi-
rons are very numerous ; and as the letters are taken
out of the boxes every two hours, they are delivered
to all places within the barriers in three or four
hours after they are put in. The postage is three
sous for Paris, and four sous for the environs.

For Russia and Sweden the post goes off daily,
but such letters can be paid only to Hamburgh.

Letters for Italv and Germany leave Paris every
Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday.

Letters for Spain, Portugal, and Gibraltar, go off
on Tuesday and Saturday.

All foreign letters must be paid to the frontier.
Letters are sent from London to Paris every Mon-

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^I4t THX MIKT.

day, Tuesday, Tliursday, and IViday, and receiyed
in London from Paris on the same days.

NECESSARY OBSERVATIONS.

It is not pennitted to inclose coin in letters.
There is an apartment in the Post-Office, where coin
and other valuable efPects are received, on paying at
the rate of Ave per cent. It is open from 8 tiil 3.

There is also another office where letters and
packages of particular consequence are taken in,
on the payment of double postage.

Letters for the East Indies and the French colonies
in America must be paid for as &r as the seaport at
which they are to be' shipped, otherwise they will be
thrown among the dead letters.

Hotel des Monnaies. The Mint.
[Quai CarUi, opposite the Louvre.] F 4*
In 1771, Paris was destitute of a Mint worthy of
the capital of a great nation. The ancient edifice
which was appropriated to that purpose, and which
was situated m me street that now bears its name,
opposite to the Pont Neuf, was in ruins. The ar-
ch&ect Antoine was appointed to construct a new
building on the site of the ancient Hotel Conti. Tlie
Hotel des Monnaies was erected, and it forms one of
the noblest ornaments of the banks of the Seine.

The principal front towards the quay is 360 feet
long, and 84 in height. It is ornamented by a pro-
jecting building, formed by six Ionic columns, placed
on a sub-basement of five arcades. A ^nd enta-
blature crowns the whole lei^gth of the edifice. The
projecting building is surmoxmted by an attic, on
which are six detached figures, representing Law,
Prudence, Fortitude, Commerce, Abundance, and
Peace, by Pigale, Mouchi, and Lecomte.

The front towards the Rue Gu6n6gaud offers an

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TitBMIKT. 215

attic on a sub-basement, of the same height as the
preceding. On a projecting building in the centre
are figures representing the four Elements, by Caf-
fieri and Dupr6. This side contains the worl^hops,
founderies, &c.

The chief entrance to the Mint is formed of a
superb vestibule, ornamented by twenty-four Doric
columns. On the right is a magnificent staircase,
decorated by sixteen Ionic columns, and conducting
to the principal halls.

The principal court is 110 feet long and 92 broad,
and is surrounded by a gallery. The salle des ba-
lanciers, where the coin is stamped, is a handsome
room, adorned with four Tuscan columns, and a
statue of Fortune, by Mouchi.

The entrance to the chapel is under one of the
arcades on the right of the court. It is a pleasing
building, of the Ionic order.

The Mint contains a superb collection of medals
and casts, the entrance to which is at No. 8, Rue
Gu^n6gaud.

These may be seen every day from ten to four
o'clock, and specimens at various prices may be ob"
tained.

The Mint formerly contained a collection of mif
nerals, but this has been removed to the Cabinet of
Natiural History, at the Jardin des Plantes.

In the Mint are performed all the operations of
coining, and here also all gold and sUver articles
manufactured in Paris are starai)ed.

In order to view the process of coining, applica^
Hon must be made by letter to his Excellency the
Minister of Finance,

La Banque. The Bank.

[Rttedela rrillih-e.] F 8.

Francis Mansard buUt this Hotel for the Due de

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216 THE BANKtf

la Vrilli^ in 1620. It was afterwajfdsi the property
of the Comte de Toulouse, and then of the Due de
Penthievre. When it was determined to fix the
Bank of France here, the architect Delauny was em-
ployed to prepare it for its new destination. He has
neglected nothing for the security or convenience of
tWs important establishment. The principal en-
trance faces the Place des Victoires.

The Bank of France has, by the laws of the 14th
of April, 1803, and of the 22d of April, 1806, the
privilege of circulating notes, payable to the bearer,
or at sight. This privilege was granted for forty
years, to commence on the 23d September, 1803.
Tliere are no notes for less than 500 francs.

According to these statutes, and the imperial de-
cree of the 16th January, 1808, it has established
houses for discounting in every town of the depart-
ments where the nature of the commerce requires
tiiem.

The transactions of the Bank consist in discount-
ing bills of exchange and other bills, payable to
oiSer, which do not exceed three months; in ad-
vancing money on government bills, on bullion, or
on foreign coin ; in undertaking to recover pajnnent
of bills for pubhc establishments or private indivi-
duals ; and in keeping an account of voluntary de-
posits of every kind.

The discounting days are Mondays, Wednesdays,
and Fridays, in each week. The discount is four
per cent, per annum. To be admitted to discount,
and to have a running account, it is necessary that
you write to the governor, accompanied with a cer-
tificate signed by three well-known persons.

The transactions of the Bank can be annulled by
the simple protestation of a proprietor.

The bank is open every day except Smidays and
ffite days, from 10 to 3.

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<rHB ARSBMAt. S17

Mont de PiH4.
[Ruedes Blancs Manteaux, No. 18.] 0 4.
The purpose to which this edifice is devoted is
of a most laudable nature. Small sums are advanced
to the poorer classes at little interest, on the deposit
of some security or property. It is open from nine
until two, and from four to seven.

Its architecture is simple and severe. The gate
towards the street is surmounted by a large pedi-
ment, supported b}; two keys adorned with garlands.
The hall on the side of the Rue de Paradis is sus-
tained by Tuscan columns, which have a noble
effect.

There is a similar establishment at No* 20, Rue
des Petits Augustins.

L' Arsenal, The ArsenaL

[Rue de Suliy.] H 5.

The buildings which still bear the name of Ar-
senal, are no longer used as such. They are situ-
ated on the borders of the Seine, at the extremity of
the Quav of the Celestins.

The objects that will principally interest the tra-
veller are, a ma^ficent ceiling, painted by Mignard,
aiid the cabinet m which Henry IV. used to unbosom
his most secret thoughts to his incomparable friend
and coimseller, Sully. The chimney, near which he
usually sat, is shown to the visiter. The Marquis de
Pauhriy, who afterwards inhabited this hotel, would
not pei-mit the slightest altft-ation to be made in the
arrangement or decoration of any of the apartments,
but placed his chief happiness in living surrounded
by those objects, on which that good king had gazed,
Or which he had touched.

The Library of the Arsenal will be described under
its proper head*
U

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S18 THB ROTjUi 9]tIimNa*0FFIG£.

LHotel Soubise, or Record-Office, and^Z'/mprt-
mm« Boyale, the Royal Prmting-Office.
[iJi4^ de Paradis, au Marais, No, 18.] G 4.

This ancient hotel was the residence of the Con-
stable Oliver Clisson. It was then called the Hotel
of Mercy, because, after a popular tumult, Charles
VI. assembled the citizens, and converted the pu-
nishment of death, to which many of them were ex-
posed, into a trifling pecuniary fine. It afterwards
Decame the property of the Dukes of Guise, whose
name it bore until 1697. Francis de Rohan, Prince
de Soubise, then purchased it.

The front of the Hotel de Soubise is composed of
dxteen columns of the Composite order, eight of
which form a projecting building, surmounted by
Corinthian pillars, and crowned by ^ pediment. The
other eight columns support four statues of the Sea-
sons, and some groups of infants by Lorrain. Above
the wdiment are two statues, representing Fortitude
and Wisdom.

The new court, of an elliptical form, is surrounded
by a gallery of fifty- six composite columns ; over
which are a terrace and a balustrade. The effect of
the whole is unusually grand.

The entrance is decorated, within and without, by
double columns. The vestibule and staircase are
large and beautiful, and ornamented with paintings
by Brunetty.

The Hotel de Soubise is now appropriated to the
reception of the archives of the kingdom. Hhs
library contains 10,000 volmnes.

It may be viewed every day, except Sundays,
from nine to three.

In 1712, Cardinal de Rohan erected a new palace
dose to the Hotel de Soubise, winch he caUed Le
Palais Cardinal, Its principal entrance is from tii«

Digitized by Google

HOTEL FOR THE FORKION MINISTER. Sl§

old Rue du Temple. The front towards the com-t is
very simple. On the garden side it is ornamented
by Doric and Ionic columns, surmounted by an attic,
and terminated by a pediment.

The Hotel Cardinal is converted into the Royal
Printing Office, which has a very extensive collection
of type, and between two and three hundred presses.
- This office may be seen on application^ by letter,
to Monsieur le Directeur,

The attendant in the office is not allowed to accept
of money from visiters. The collection of types, of
every age and character, is immense. It is well
worthy the attention of strangers.

During the reign of Buonaparte, the Pope visited
this wonderful establishment, and the directors pre-
sented him with the Lord's Prayer, printed in one
hundred and iifty different languages, and all of
them struck off during his visit.

Hotel du Ministere des Affaires Etrangeres. Hotel
of the Minister for Foreign Affairs.
[Rue Neuve des Capucines. No. 14.] E 3.
The office of the Minister for Foreign Affairs was
for many years at the Hotel Galifet, No. 84, Rue de
Bac; but in 1821, the government purchased the
Hotel Wagram, No. 14, Rue Neuve des Capucines,
which is now occupied by the Foreign Minister.
The Passport Office is open from 11 till 5.

A magnificent building for this office was com-
menced by Buonaparte, on the Quai d'Orsai, but
the works have been discontinued since 1813.

The principal front is intended to consist of a
centre and wings, ornamented with two orders of
architecture, whicli are carried round the other sides
of the building, in imitation of the Farnese palace at
Rome. The ground floor will be occupied by the

U %

Digitized by Google

1^20 BARttACXftj

offices, and the first floor by the private a^artm^ts
of the minisfer and his family.

Hotel du Timbre. Stamp^Office.
[Rue de la Paix, No. 12.] E 8.
This is an insignificant buildingerected on the site
of the convent of Capuchins. The front is a plain
wall with a Doric entablature, having the entrance
in the centre. Hie offices here are open every day
from 9 to 4.

Roionde du Temple. Temple Rotunda.

[Behind the Marchi du Fieux Linge.l 6 3.

This building is situated on a part of the ancient
enclosure of the Temple, and is adorned with porti-
coes erected in 1781, by P. de Montreuil, in a severe
but not inelegant style. It consists pf an isolated
edifice 222 feet in length, terminated by two semi-
circles, and enclosing a court of considerable size.
In front of the ground-floor is a galleiy of forhr-four
arcades, supported by an equal number of Tuscan
columns, and behind it are numerous shops.

Passages.

The resort of so many strangers to the galleries
of the Palais Royal, induced the proprietors of seve-
ral streets in Paris to cover them over, and flt up the
shops in an elegant style. This speculation has been
very successful ; and the Passages des Panoramas,
de Montesquieu, de TOrme, de Feydeau, du Caire,
de rOpera, &c., are now seen thronged with visiters.

Casernes. Barracks.

There are no less than twenty-four barracks in
Paris and its immediate environs, which were erected
by desire of Marshal Biron, Some of them are spa-

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dous ftftd elegant The princi|ial are. Rue de Baby-
lone, No. 23 ; Rue de Clichy, Nos. 6 and 23 ; Rue
de la P^pinilre, No* 22 ; Qrwide Rue Verte, No^
32 ; Rue du Faubourg Poissonniere, No. 76 ; Rue
du Faubout^ du Temple, No. 72 ; Rue Popincourt,
No. 51; Rue de TOursine, No. 62; and Rue d^
Rivoli, feeing the Tuileries.

Ateliers de Sculpture, Statuary's Work-Rooms,
[Quai des Jnvalides,]

In this establishment there are always some fine
specimens of sculpture, which have been ordered by
the government, and are in various states of for-
wardness.

Tickets of admission may be obtained on appli-^
cation at the Direction des Trataux des Monumens
Publics^ No. 7, Rue Poultier, He St. Louis, or by
tetter, post-paid, to Monsieur le Directeur.

PRIVATE BUILDINGS.

Many of the private hotels and houses in Paris de-
serve the notice of the traveller. He will often be
surprised at the massive appearanee aiKl laboured
ornaments which the residence of almost all above
the middle classes present. The ioUowing are pat*
tieularly worthy of observation.

Hotel ou Palais du Petit Luxembowrg, [Rue
de Vaugirard.l E 5. This hotel, which adjoins the
rarden of the Luxembourg palace, was built by Car-
mnal Richelieu, for his mother,* but afterwards be-
longed to the Prince de Cond6, firom whom it passed,
in 1814, into the hands of the crown. Buonaparte
resided here when First Consul^ andi* is n6w occu»
med by the Chuaneellort

U 3

Digitized by Google

S2a HtXTATB BIJIU>XK90«

Hotel ds Camavalet. [No. 27, Rue Culture Ste.
Catherine.] G 4. This was once the abode of Ma-
dame de Sevign^, and of her daughter, the Countess .
of Grignan. It is principally deserving of notice for
the statues that adorn its front, representing Forti-
tude and Vigilance, by Goujon ; and said to be the
chefs d'ceuvre of that artist. Round the court are
twelve other figures. Four of them are by the same
sculptor, and represent the Seasons. The author of
the others is unknown. Strangers are not admitted
to the apartments, but the porter will allow them to
see the sculpture in the court.

Hotel Lambert. [No. 2, Rue et De St. Louis.]
G 5. It is remarkable for the grandeur of its archi-
tecture, and the beauty of its paintings. The en-
trance has a noble character ; and although modem
architects would censure the staircase as too heavy,
it has been much admired. This hotel formerly con-
tained sonie of the master-pieces of the best painters
of the French school. Many of them are removed,
and enrich the Museums of the Louvre and Ver-
sailles ; but sufficient remain amply to repay the tra-
veller for the visit which he makes to the hotel. It
may be seen by giving a small fee to the porter.

Hotel St. Aignan. [Rue St. Avoye.] G 4. This
ancient hotel was built by Muet, and nas successively
borne the names of Montmorency, Devaux, and de
MSmes> The architecture is pure, and the propor-
tions are beautifully correct ; but it is much dis-,
figured by modem additions, without uniformity and
without taste.

Mais'on ou Cour Batave. The Dutch House.
[Rue St. Denis, No. 24.] F 4. This edifice, which
IS inhabited by merchants of every description, stands
on the site of the ancient chinrch of St. Sepulchre.
It was built in 1795, from designs by Sobre and
Happe. Hie firont is 164 feet in length, and consists

Digitized by Google

PBIVATE BUlliMMg* 2fiS

of seven arcades in the basement^ separated by Ionic
pillars, and crowned with a balcony. Above are
three stories with a Doric cornice. The figure of
Mercury is placed in the centre on the summit of a
little tower ; other allegorical figures are sculptured
in bas-relief in the arcades. The principal defect of
this large building is, that the entrances are not
sufficiently numerous or large to admit of a free cir-
culation of air through the inner courts.

Maison St. Germain. [Rue St. Lazare.] E 2.
This house was built by Le Doux, in 1772, and
pleases from its simple style and well-executed em-
bellishments.

Trois Maisons Riunies, The Three United
Houses. [Rue St. George.] F 2. The fronts of
these houses, built by M. Beflanger, are much ad-
mired, although they contain some licenses which
cannot be reconciled with any rules of architecture.
^ Maison St. Foix, or Hotel d Osmond. [Rue Basse
du Rempart.] E. 3. The skill of the architect has
here triumphed over every disadvantage of situation,^
The staircase is much admired, and the view of this
house from the Boulevard is very pleasing.

Hotel de Biron. [Rue de Varennes.] This hotel
is occupied as a convent, and in the garden is a Cal-
vaiy, 30 feet in height.

Maison Lathuile. [Rue Poissonniere.] F 3. Thi$
building is distinguished by its elegant simplicity.
The front towards the court has only two stories,
and is decorated by four Doric columns. The garden
is considerably lower, and towards it the edifice has
three stories. The portico of the ground-floor has
four rustic columns, and the entablature of the first
story is supported by four ^gantic figures. The
garden is tastefully laid out. Visiters may see the
court and garden on application to the porter, but
the rooms are npt $hown.

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M4 rttivAra BtiiiMos.

Hatd de Srunoy, [No. 51, Hue ftkubowrg St.
Honorft.] D 3. This edifice resembles more % tem-

Sle than the house of a private individnaL It is, in-
eed, cfifficult to reconcile its appearance with the
idea that it can be simply devoted to domestic enjoy-
ment. Its front consists of seven arcades, sur-
mounted by a long frieze, with bas-reliefe. A peris-
tyle projects, composed of six Ionic columns, covered
bv a kmd of pyramid, on the summit of which is a
statue of Flora. So much taste and simplicity are
combined in the whole building, that the traveH^
dannot withhold his approbation. The distribution
of the interior is equally simple, and admirably con-
venient. The saloon is supported by reeded plasters
of the Ionic order, and the ceiling is pamted byM.
Vincent. Two wings project into the garden, lliat
on the right is occupied by a boudoir and the lilw^ary.
The lefk contains some elegant baths and a cabinet.
The view from the apartments extends over the
Champs Elys6es, from which the garden is separated
by a deep foss^.

Hotel de Mademoiselle Qttimard, [Rue du Mont
Blanc ou Chauss6e B'Antin.] E 2. The architec-
time of this building is unique and pleasing. It was
erected by Le Doux, for the celebrated opera-dancer,
whose name it bears. It is intended to represent the
temple of Terpsichore, and is decorated with a porch
of fom* columns, over which is a sculptured feure of
that muse crowned by Apollo. In the recess behind
the columns is a bas-relief exhibiting the triumph of
Terpsichore.

Hotd de Matignon. [Rue de Vareraies.] D 4.
This appears like a magnificent palace on a small
scale, in the middle of an extensive garden.

Maison Colbert. [No. 14, Rue des Rats.] F 5.
This was the residence of the great Colbarl. The
interior fronts of the court are adorned with bass^

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PRIVITE BCILDINGS. 22S

refieves, some of which are said to have been exe-
cuted by Goujon,

Hotel de Sully. [No. 143, Rue St. Antoine.] H 5.
This house was erected by Ducerceau, but has been
much disfigured by modem alterations. It was
built for Siuly, the prime-minister of Hemy IV.

Hotel Runski. [Rue St. Dominique.] This hotel
presents little that is imposing on its exterior, but
nothing can be more magnificent or tasteful Uian its
interior decorations.

Hotel de Croy, [Rue de Bom^ogne.] D. 4. This
edifice is principally remarkable for its noble entrance,
resembling a triumphal arch, adorned with the rich-
est trophies.

Maison Dorlian. [Rue du Mont Pamasse.] E 6.
The architecture of this building is pure and correct.
The front is embellished by four columns of the lonie
order, which support a grand bas-relief.

Maison Collet, [Rue du Mont Pamasse.] E 6.
On each side of the door is a gigantic figure on a
pedestal supporting an entablature. A neat cornice
IS above the windows of the ground floor, and above
the windows of the second story is a grand bas-
reHef.

Hotel de Longueville. [Place du Carousel, No. 6.]
E 4. This hotel, once the abode of the dukes of
Longueville and Elboeuf, was transformed into a
manufactory of tobacco, and is now used as the
king's stables.

Hotel de Mirabeau. [Rue de Seine St. Germain,
No. 6.1 G 6. In this palace died Queen Margue-
rite, the first wife of Henry IV. It derives its name
from the father of the celebrated Mirabeau, who

Hotel Cluny, [Rue des Mathurins.] F 5. This
is one of the most ancient, as well as tiie most ele-
gant, Gothio structures in Paris. Jt is now the pro^

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SSd ANTIQUITIES*

party of a bookseller^ It was built on part of Hm
ground on which Julian's palace stood.

Hdtd de la Roche/oucault. [Rue de Sebe St.
Germain.] G 6. Was the scene of Turenne's early
days. It is now occupied by baths.

Hotel de Marigny. [Near the Louvre.] F 4.
Here Buonaparte once resided, in a small room, for
which he paid 8 francs a week.

Maison du Chanoine Fulbert, [Cour des Chan-
tres, pr^s N6tre Dame.] G 5. Two ancient me-
dallions in the wall, representing Eloisa and Abelard,
formerly distinguished the house of the Canon Ful-
bert, so often mentioned in the history of those
unfortunate lovers ; but they were destroyed during
the Revolution. Over the door, however, of the
house is the following inscription : ** Ce fut icila de-
meure d'H61oise et Abaillard en Tannic MCXVIII."

ANTIQUITIES, kc.

The palace of the Warm-Baths, and the Hotel de
Cluny, have been already described.

The Hotel de Sens, Rue du Figuier, No. 1,. for-
merly occupied by Cardinal Duprat, and which, in
the reign of Francis I., was worthy of a chancellor
of France, is now appropriated to the meeting of
waggoners and their train.

A bust of Henry IV. indicates the spot where he
was assassinated, in the Rue de la Ferronnerie, a
continuation of the Rue St. Honor6, and then much
narrower than it is at present.

The part of the Vieille Rue du Temple, which
nearly Mujes the Rue des Blancs-Manteaux, recalls to
memory that the Duke d' Orleans, brotiier of Charles
VI. fell by the numerous daggers directed by the
Duke of fiuiigundy.

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ANTIQUtTIBS, 227

The house at the corner of Rue du Foin St.
Jacques and Rue Boutebrie, is said to have been the
residence of Queen Blanche.

No. 18, Rue d'Argenteuil, is the house in which
ComeiUe died in 1684. It bears a black slab with
an insmption, and in the court-yard is a bust of the
poet, on which is inscribed " Le Cid, 1636."

The Hotel de Memes, or St. Aignan, Rue St.
Avoye, is remarkable as the place where the great
Montmorency died in 1567. Henry II. also resided
in this house.

In the Rue de la Tonnellerie, Rue St. Honor6, is
the house in which Moliere was bom. On the front
is a badly-executed bust.

An old house in Rue du Foiu* St. Grermain was
once the residence of Gabrielle, the mistress of
Henry IV.

The hotel at the comer of the Rue Bethisy and
the Rue du Roule, sorrowfully reminds us of the
murder of Admiral de Coligni on the horrible day of
St. Barth61emy.

On the Quai Voltaire, in the house in whieh
Voltaire died.

Francis I. possessed a small palace on the Quai
des Augustins, called le Palais d'Amom-, on which
the poultry-market has been erected: from this
palace there existed a private communication
with the Hotel of the Salamander, occupied by his
mistress the celebrated Duchess d*£tampes, situated
in the now dirty and wretched Rue de I'Hirondelle,
No. 22. For this grand hoM of days of yore has
been substituted a very ordinary house. The sala-
mander, in stone, which decorated the Dulcinea*s
palace, has been carefully {>reserved over the porte-
cochSre» as weU as another in the court-yard.

The house of Canon Fulbert, of Isdtre Dame,

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228 BELI610US EDIFICES.

the atrocious uncle of Eloisa, has been already men-
tioned.

La Tour de St. Jean de Latran, place Cambrai,
near St. Genevieve, is a curious morsel of antiquity,
which should not be overlooked by the traveller. It
is supposed to have been part of the palace built
]jy Clovis, and afterwards used as a place of ren-
dezvous by the pilgrims to Jerusalem.

La Tour de St. Jacquesla-Boucherie, in the mar-
ket of the same name, is a most elegant and curious
relic of the noble Gothic church which once occupied
the site of this market. It will afford the antiquary
a high treat. It is now occupied as a shot manu-
factory.

RELIGIOUS EDIFICES.

The clergy of Paris are now composed of an arch-'
bishop, four vicars general, a metropolitan chapter,
consisting of sixteen canons, (two only of whom have
the title of iirst dignitaries of the churches of Notre
Dame and St. Genevieve,) twelve curates, and
twenty-five assisting curates, besides many other ec-
clesiastics. Three seminaries are situated at St.
Sulpice, St. Nicholas du Chardonnet, and at the
establishment for Foreign Missions ; and the fixst of
these has upwards of 200 pupils*

There are also thirty-five religious communities for
women*

Paris formerly contained more than two hundred
churches and chapels, but the number now devoted
to the Catholic worship, exclusive of those connected
with re-established convents, hospitals, &c., is not
more than forty^ the most remarkable of which we
shall notice*

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S CEKMAIN L'AUXHRKOIS

^ ETIENKE OV MONT

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i^Mre Dome. The Oathedral of our Lady.
',' \hle dii PalaU,^ F 5.

T«B cathedml of Ndtre Dameis the mother churdi
^France. ' It is the most ancient religious edifice in
INris. ITie episcopal see is also Of l£e greiatest an-
tiqtiityr deriving its foundation from Denis, the tutelar
ftjsint of France* It was erected on the ruins of a
temple consecrated to Jupiter, Castor and Pollux, by
the merchants of Paris, in the reign of Tiberius.
Some ancient inscriptions to this effect were found in
the beginning of the last century. This church was
named after St. Denis tiU 522, when it was rebuilt
under Childebert I., and dedicated to the Virgin
Mary. The building of the present day derives its
origin from the time of King Robert the Devout,
about the year 1010; but some antiquaries date its
foundation under Louis le Jeune, about the year
1177. Its architecture, although Gothic, possesses
something so sin^lar, so bold, and at the same time
so delicate, that it has ever been esteemed one of the
handsomest^ structures in the kingdom. It is 414
feet long, 144 wide, and 102 in height, without com-
prehending the space aBotted to forty-five chapels,
and the astonishing thickness of the wall. One hun-^
dred and twenty enormous columns, which support
tiiis edifice, form a double colonnade extendinff the
whole length of the fabric ; and two hundred and
ninety-seven columns, each cut from a single block,
are distributed in various parts^f the building.

The eastern fr^nt presents a venerable portico, \o
which, was formerly a descent of thirteen steps. It
contains- three portals. The centre portal is of mo-
dern aS*chkecture, the other two are antique, and are
remarkable for a multiplicity of ornaments, in the
styliJ of the Lower Empke. On the arch of the N.
portal are, represented eleven signs of the Zodiac,
X

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930 KOTItB DAMft

and the twelfth, Virgo, instead of being placedwith
the others, is sculptured on the pillar between the
two doors. The centre portal is likewise surrounded
by innumerable decorations, but they are evidently
of later date. Above them is a gallery, supported
by columns, in the intervals of winch were formerly
placed twenty-eight statues of the Kings of France,
nrom Childebert to Phihp- Augustus, but these were
destroyed during the Revolution,

Over the side portals rise two immense towers,
40 feet s(^uare, and 204 in height. They command
an extensive view of Paris and its environs, and are
ascended by 389 steps. ' Their heavy appearance ill
accords wim the building to which they belong. Vi-
siters may ascend them by giving a few sous to the
person who keeps the keys. Between these towers,
and over the window that enlightens the nave, is &
second gallery, supported by Gothic colunms of ex-
quisite delioacy. The whole of the exterior is suT'.
rounded by three galleries ; the first over the chapel,,
the second above Sie internal galleries, and the thb^
around the dome. These render almost every part
of the structure easily accessible.

The choir is truly superb. The modem orna-
ments of it were commenced by De Cotte, principal
architect to the king, in 1669, and finished by his son-
in 1714. In the centre is a brazen eagle,^ seven feet
high, and three feet from wing to wing. Two pilas-
ters of wood at the entrance of the choir, adorned
with grotesque sculpture, support two angels in
bronze. The elegant stalls wmch line the two sides
of the choir, are terminated by two of superb w(»fk-
manship, appropriated to tiie archbishop. The
wainscot is covered with numerous curk)us and well-
executed bas-reliefe, representing the life of the Holy
Virgin, and various scriptural subjects. The staVa
Qxe surmounted by a connoe of rich desiigny the upper

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MOTRS OJOn. SSI

part of which contains ekht fine paintings, by the
tnost celebrated masters of the French school. The
** Annimciation of the Virgin/' by H«Q1^, is the first
on the ri^ht at the top of the dioir. Next to it is
the " Visitation of the Virgin," the chef-doBwre of
Jouvenet, who painted it with his left hand after his
right had become paralytic. The third is the " Birth
of our Saviour," by Philippe de Champagne ; and
the fourth, the ** Adoration of the Magi," by Lafosse.
On the left are the " Presentation of our Saviour in
ttie Temple," by Louis Boulogne ; the " Flight into
Egypt," by the same artist ; the " Presentation of
the Virgin in the Temple," by Philippe de Cham-
pagne; and the "Assumption of the Virgin," by
Antoine Coypel.

The choir was formerly adorned by stone sculp-
tures, representing the history of Genesis. On the
outside, the history of the New Testament was de-
scribed. A few ^otesque figures yet remain, and
show the extraordinary style in which these per-
formances were executed. The grand altar was
erected by order of Louis XIV., and since the resto-
ration of^Louis XVIII., has been adorned with two
marble statues of Louis XIIL and XIV., which had
been removed to the French Museum ; as well as
with the angels cast in 1715, by Roger Chabert.

Some steps of Languedoc marble conduct to the
sanctuary, me altar of which has been justly admired.
•It is three feet and eight inches long, three feet high,
and stands on dght circular supporters, of wfite
Languedoc marble. In front are three bas-reliefs.
That in the centre, by Van-Cleve, represents Jesus
Christ in the tomb ; on each side are angels in the
attitudes of grief, by Deseine.

The steps of the altar, which are of white marble,
sprinkled with golden stars, support six gilt candle-
sticks, nearly &ve feet in height*

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sat KOTRK DAME. :

In the middle of the recess is a grating of gilt brass,
on which is sculptured the Paschal lamb. Above
this is a gilded cross, more than seven feet high.
Hie pavement is a rich mosaic, in which the arms of
France are conspicuous, and the arches above are
inlaid with white marble.

The bottom of the sanctuary is occupied by a group
representing the descent from the cross, in Carrara
marble. It is the best work of the elder Coustou,
and well merits the closest attention.

The devotee will not fiail to inquire for the relics
which this sanctuary contains. Among other inesti-
mable treasures, a veritable portion of our Saviomr's
crown of thorns, and a piece of the true cross, are
shown. The regalia of Charlemagne, and many
gold and silver vases, are likewise exhibited. Here
also may be seen the splendid robes made for the
priests at the coronation of Buonaparte, and pre*
sented bv him to this church. They are still worn
on fSte-days, and other great occasions ; but the bees
with which they were adorned have been exchanged
for lilies. Amongst the ornaments preserved here,
is a sun of gold presented by Louis XVIII., in
commemoration of the successful campaign in Spain,
in 1823.

Thirty out of the forty-eight chapels which formeiiv
decorated tiiis church siSl remain. They are all
adorned with pictures of more or less merit

The chapel of St, Grenevi^ve, on the right, has
been lately repaired. The wainscot that now adorns
it was taken from the ancient hall of the chapter of
Notre Dame, and was constructed about the be^n-
ning of the sixteenth centmy. It represents the
apostles and some of the saints, separated by little
pilasters tasteftilly ornamented. Under the tower,
on the side of the cloister, is a tablet of stone sculp-
tured in the sixteenth century, which describes, in a

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1^09 RB DAim. #Sd

Bold and stiiking; manner, the universal judgment.
It is usually pointed out to the attention of tile
curious.

In another chapel is the celebrated mausoleum of
Lord Harcourt, (executed in 1776, by Pigalle, and re-
placed here in 1820.

The* new chapel of the Virgin is adorned with a
fine statue by Raggi of Rome ; and in a chapel near
it is the splendid monument of Cardinal du Belloy,
Iffchbishop of Paris, who died in l8(Mf : it was exe-
cuted by Deseine, and erected in 1818.

This noble edifice, prior to the Revolution, pos-
sessed much rich tapestry, stained-^ass windows,
tesselated {>avements, magnificent monuments, and
the most richly-variegated shrines. Too many of
those were, during the reign of anarchy, removed or
destroyed. Every exertion has anee been made to
restore or replace them ; and the diureh of N6tre
Dame is once more an object of craiosity to the tra-
veller and the antiquary.

Adjoining to it is the ArchiepiSeopsd Palace, a
heavy builmng, which forms a strange contrast witli
the elegant structure of the Cathedral.

The principal religious festivals, such as Easter
Sundi^, Whit-Sunday, the FSte Dieu, &e., are cele-
brated at N6tre Bame with great splendour, and on
these occasions the archbishop of Paris officiates. On
the 21st of January, a solemn service is perfwmed
feere and in the other churches of Paris, for the re-
pose of the soul of Louis XVI. At Ndtre Dame the
Choir is augmented by the choristers of the King's
Chapel, sltA singers from the ttieatres. Midnight
mass is also pertormed here on Christmas Eve, as
well as at the other churches.
* The jBestivals pecuhar to Ndtre Dame are a solemn
mass on the day before the opening of the legislative
session, which is attended by the Royal Family and

X s

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5^4. ST. OERMIIN DBS PRES.

the members of both chambers ; and a procession
on the 15th of August, in fulfilment of a vow made
by Louis XIII. The Royal Family attend in this
procession.

Abbaye Roy ale de St, Germain des Fris, •
Abbey Royal of St. Germain in the Fields.
[Place St. Germain des Prh.} E 5.

This church was founded by ChUdebert, in 558, on
the ^ins of an ancient temple of Isis, and rebuilt by
the Abb6 Morard in 1 014, naving been three times
burnt by the Normans.

Nothing could be more magnificent than the inte-»
rior decoration of this temple, built in the form of a
Roman cross, 200 feet in length, 65 in breadth, and
5 9 high. It takes its name from St. Grermain, bishop
of Paris, who was interred in one of its chapels.

It once contained some exquisite specimens of an-
cient sculpture, and a noble library of more than
1 00,000 volumes ; but, during the Revolution, it was
shamefully pillaged and defaced. It is yet worthy of
the traveller's attention, from the traces of true anti-
quity which it affords. It contains the remains of
most of the ancient kings, and of several eminent
men, amongst whom are Montfaucon, Mabillon, Des^
cartes, Boueau, and St. Pierre. The portal to the
west has a majestic appearance ; thovign, perhaps, it
more resembles the entrance to a magnificent castle
than a church.

The principal altars are now re-established. Pope
Pius VII. laid the first stone of the altar of the
chapel of the Virgin, behind the choir. The chapel
of St. Marguerite is tastefully decorated, and the
tones of one of the finest organs in Paris again re-
sound along the fretted roof.

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' ST. liOUis. 235

Saint Severin.
IRue de St. Severin.'] V 5.
The piincipal curiosity in this ancient church is its
altar, decorated with eight marble columns of the
Composite order, after the design of Le Brun, The
sculpture with which they are enriched is the work of
the statuary, Tuby ; there is also a bas-relief repre-
senting a tomb, by Girardon. In this building, the
first operation for the stone was performed on a con-
demned criminal.

Pasquier, a celebrated poet, historian^ and lawyer,
the learned Moreri, and the brothers St Marthe, were
buried in this church.

Chapelle Beaujon, The Chapel of Beaujon,
\_Rue du Faubourg du Roulej.No, 59.] C 2.

This chapel was built by Girardin, at the expense of
the financier, M. Beaujon, who designed it as a chapel
of ease to the parish of St. Philippe du Roule, and a
place of sepulture for himself and his family.

The simple, yet noble plan of the building, the
richness of its decorations, the happy distribution of
its light, and the good taste which it every where dis-
covers, have caused it to be ranked among the best
productions of modern French architecture.

Saint Louis.
[Rue Sainte Croi^, Chaufisee d'Jntin.l E 2,

This little church was originally built by the Capu-
chins. It is mentioned on account of the peculiar
simplicity of the architecture. It has but one base-
ment ; and the only ornament of the interior is a
cornice of the Doric order. This simplicity, how-
ever, being united to the justest proportions, has a
very pleasing effect.

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tM ST. OERMAIK L^JLtTKBIlROIS.

An urn, containing the heart of M. le Comte Choi-
seuil Gouffier, celebrated for his travels, is placed in
this ohurch ; and there is a picture, by Gassier, repre-
senting St. touis visiting his sick soldiers.

Saint Leu,

[Rue Saint D^nis.] F 4.

This chapel, built in 1235, is purely Gothic; but
Ihe arehitect who repaired the sanctuary in 1 780, has,
with stnuige want of taste, given it an ahnost thea^
trical appearance. A subterranean chapel, contain-
ing a g^od picture by Delaval, and a &ie figure <^
Christ, is shown to the curious.

St, Oermcnn fAtuterroi^.
[Near the Limvre.} F 4.

This was likewise built by Childebert. The statues
of himself and of his queen are yet to be seen at the
entrance, The portal is a fine snpecimen of Gothia
architecture* by Perrault and Le &run. The bell of
1^ church gave the signal for the horrible massacre
of St. Baortholomew, a^ it was here that MassiUoiv
and Bourdaloue preached before Louis XIV.

Amongst the eminent persons buried here were
Malherbe the poet, Madame Daci^, Caylus, CoypeU
and Coysevox.

Before the Revolution, this church contained a
collection of paintings and statues which almost
rivalled the noblest museum in France. Most of
the French artists lived in or near the Louvre. TWs
was th^ parish church ; and a pleasir^ cxuitention
arose among them, who ^oiiM contribute most to its
embellishment. Jouvenet, Coypel, Le Brun, Louis
Boulogne, Philippe de Champagne, Coysevox, and
Warin, were eager to place the most vahiaWe of th«r
vr<^ks in the choir, and around the iltir ofthn chnr^t

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ST. BTIENNl DU |IONT« £87

During the sacrilegious period of the Revolution,
these &easures were scattered or destroyed.

This church is adorned with several pictures, and
contains a splendid canopy given hy Louis XVIII.
It is occasionally visited by the Royal Family, the
Tuileries being situated in tiiis parish.

Theprincipal festivals at this church are the paro-
chial fete on the last Sunday of July ; the Eve of St.
Louis's Day (August 24), when the members of the
French academy attend a mass in music, and the
President delivers an address ; the FSte Dieu, when
the Royal Family walk in the procession ; Tuesday
or Wednesday of the Holy Week, when the Royal
Family receive the Sacrament ; Easter Sunday, and
Whit Sunday.

St, Medard,
[Rue Mouffetard,] G 6.

This was originally the parish church of the village
of St. Medard. Patru, called the French Quintilian,
Nicole the moralist, and Paris, whose tomb is said to
have performed so many miracles in the reign of
Louis XV., were buried here.

St Etienne du Mont,
[Rue de la Montagne Sainte Genevihje.'\ G 5.

Sainte Genevieve, so celebrated in the French
calendar, and whose name is intimately connected
with the conversion of the first Parisian monarch,
died in 512, and was buried in a chapel near this
ppot. The sanctuary which contained her remains
was enriched by every succeeding monarch ; and the
Royal Abbey of St. Genevieve was founded in honour
of tfie tutelary feaint of Paris.

The church of St. Etienne du Mont was afterwards
erected as a chapel of ease for the vassals of the

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nn ST. BTUBVMB W MOMT*

iloy&t Abbey. To prdserve it ifrom the jurisdktian
of the Archbishop of Paris, it was biult without any
external door ; and the only access to it was by a
covered passage from the Abb^ of St. Genevieve,
When it was rebuilt in 1491, by Francis I*, it yet re-
tained this whimsical peculiarity; and it was not
until 161 0 that Queen Marguerite, wife of Henry IV.,
constructed the presentportico.

Of the Abbey of St. Genevidve, and its celebrated
church, few vestiges remain ; but this appendage to
the grandeur of me ancient monastery has defied the
ravages of time. Its architecture has been much ad-
mired. The front is peculiarly grand. It is com-
posed of four banded Ionic pUlars, supporting a tri-
an^lar pediment ; the ornaments of which, mough
a little confiised, remind the spectator of the peculiar
style of Roman architecture.

The interior of the church is remarkable for its
boldness and singularity. . It is a strange, yet not
impleasing, mixture of the Greek, the Gothic, and
the Arabic. Most persons will admire the extraor-
dinary height of the arches, sustained by slender
pillars, without immediately perceiving the defect of
their construction. Indeed, that defect is skilfiilly
hidden ; and the extreme meagreness of the colunms
is concealed by a gallery, which is placed at about
three-fourths of their height The stairs leading to
this gallery seem to be magically suspended in the
air.

The pulpit, sculptured by Lestocard, is much ad-
mired. A colossal statue of Samson seems to sup-
port the enormous weight. The painted glass win-
dow of the chancel shoiUd not be overlooked. The
marble altar is richly and el^ntly decorated, and
over it is the " Maiiyrdom of St. Stephen," by Le
Brun.

Behind the choir, on a platform supported by four

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ST. LOUIS. — ST. PAUL. 239

pillars of the Tuscan order, is a new shrine, in the
form of a Gothic church, containing the reHcs of St.
Genevieve. In one of the side chapels is the an-
cient tomb of this saint. Two beautiful paintings of
Largiliere are here seen. They express the venera-
tion of the Parisians for their patron saint.

In this church were buried the venerable Pascal,
the poet Racine, the painter Le Sueur, the botanist
Toumefort, the Abbe de Sacy, and the eloquent Le-
maitre. The inscriptions to the memory of Pascal
and Racine were destroyed dming the Revolution,
but have lately been replaced in the chapel dedicated
to the Yirgin, behind the choir.

St, Louis en Vlsle,
[Isle St, Loms,] G 5.

This church is not destitute of elegance ; but it is
chiefly remarkable for the singular appearance of
the pyramidal tower that supports the clock, and
which is visible in most parts of the city. The re-
mains of Quinault, the poet, are deposited here.

St. Louis — St. Paul J formerly Church of the
Jesuits.

iRue St, Antoiiie.} G 4.
LotJis XIII. laid the first stone of this church in
1627, and it was finished in 1641. It is built in the
form of a Roman cross, with a dome in the centre.
Its portal is lofty, and composed of three rows of
columns above each other. Two are Corinthian, and
one Composite. A profusion of ornament, employed
without regularity of taste, offends the eye of the
connoisseur, and does little credit to the skill of the
architect, Father D errand. Marble, silver, and gold,
are employed with boundless prodigality in the deco-
ration of the grand altar and the chapels.

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On the right of the sanctuary was the heart of
Louis XIII., enclosed in a heart of gold, supported
by two angels of silver, modelled by Sarrazin. Oa
liie left was that of Louis XIV., supported likewise
by two angels, the workmanship of Coustou. This
last monument cost 600,000 francs. Near the place
where these stood, was a mausoleum, less rich, but
remarkable for the propriety of its design and the
delicacy of its execution. It was designed to receive
the hearts of the heroes of the house of Cond6 . Sar-
razin modelled the ornaments, and Persan cast the
figures. Not far distant were the tombs of the princes
of the house of Bouillon. The inscriptions in honour
of Louis XIII. and XIV. are stiU visible, but not a
vestige remains of the tomb of the great Cond6.

Numerous paintings of the French and Italian
schools once enriched this temple, and caused it
(Uke St. Germain L'Auxerrois) to resemble a superb
museum, constantly thronged by strangers and art-
ists. Few of these have survived the ravages of the
Revolution. There are, however, several striking
statues.

St Merry ou Mdderic.
iRue St. Martin.] G 4.

A CHAPEL existed here in the sixth century, dedi-
cated to St. Peter. It afterwards took the name of
St. Merry, or of St. Mederic, who was here interred.
The present building was erected in 1520. Its ar-
chitecture is Gothic ; and although it does not often
excite attention by its exterior, its interior is most
splendidly ornamented. The choir was decorated
with much taste by the brothers Slodtz, in the last
century. It is covered with stucco resembling mar-
ble, and enriched with much ^ding. At the bottom
of the sanctuary is a Glory, which has a pleasing and
even sublime efiect.

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8T. GE&TAIS. 841

In the chapel of the CoDvnunion is a noble paint-
ing of "the Pilgrims at Emmaus," by CoypeL
The chapels in the transept contain some mterestmg
paintings ; particularly ** St. Merry/' by Vouet :
" the Virgin and Infant Jesus," and ** St. Charles,"
by Carloo Vanloo; and "St. Peter," by Restout
lliere is also a Dead Christ in the arms of the Vir-
gin, sculptured by Slodtz.

On the left is a descent, which conducts to a sub-
terranean chapel.

La Sainte Chapelle.
[At the Palais de Justice.'] F 4.
This is one of the most beautiful Gothic edifices in
Europje. It was built by Montr euil in 1248, during
the reign of St. Louis, as a depository for the relics
which this king had brought from Palestine and
Venice, and which are now preserved at Notre
Dame. It is now filled with the archives or records
of the courts of justice, which are kept with great
order, and occupy an extensive range of cases.
This chapel is remarkable for having two stories ;
the upper one contains some curious rehcs, and in
the vamts of the lower were deposited the remains of
the poet Boileau ; they have, however, been removed
to St. Germain des Pr6s. The windows are adorned
with painted glass, the colours of which are much
admired for tSeir beauty and variety. To the right
of the Upper Chapel is shown a small oratoiy, to
which St. Louis repaired daily to say mass.

Strangers may view the Sainte~ Chapelle on 'ap^
plication to the archiveste, or keeper of the records,
whose office, in the court of the palace, is open
dvery day from 10 to 4,

St. Gervais.
[Near the Place de Grh>e.'\ G 4.
The portal to this chwch, which is the object that
Y

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S4f BOLISE M UL MiraLAIKK.

principally deserves tiie traveHa'^s attentioh, y^s in-
built byLmiis XIIL, in 1616. Debrosses was the
architect 6<nne critics have censored the ^stribu*
tion of minuter parts : but the happy iinion of the
Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian orders, the immense
span of the arches, and the character of -boldness^
jret severity, whidi prevails, must produce a pleas^
mg impression on the mind. The interior of the
building is in harmony with the purpose for which
the edifice was erected. The little chapel of the
Virgin, apparently suspended from the roof of the
church, is an object of much curiosity.

The mausoleiun of the chancellor Michel le Tellier,
executed by Mazeline and S. Hurtrelle, has been
restored to this church.

Eglise de tAssompticn, ou de la Madntaine,
IRue St. Honore."] E S.

Is an inelegant edifice, with a massive dome. The
portal, however, consisting of eight Corinthian
columns, is neat, and would have a pretty effect,
were it not for the heavy appearance of the dome.
The interior is adorned with a jncture of th6 As->
sumi^tion, by Blondel, and a ceiling of the choir
is pamted by Lafosse*

Eglise de la Madelaine.
[Rue Royale.} E 3.

This church, which was to have been named ** The
Temple of Glory," and dedicated to those who died
while fighting their coimtry's battles, was begun
before the Revolution, then taken down, and after-
wards partially restored. In 1816, a royal order
was issued for the completion of this building, in
order to place in it expiatory monuments to Louis
'XVI. and his queen, Louis XVII., and the princess
Eli2abeth.

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8TI* MABeUSftlTB. £43

St. Emtaehe.
[Rue Montmartre,'] F 8.

This vast ediiice was commenced in 1532, but was
not entirely finished till 1642. It offers a strange
mixture of the Arabian and Greek architecture.
The columns which support the interior are altogether
without proportion. When the traveller compares
their lightness with their biffden, he trembles lest
they should yield to the superincumbent weight.
The front is of modem architecture. It consist of
the Ionic and Doric orders above each other, crowned
in the centre by a small triangular pediment, with
(formerly) two square towers at the extremities.
One of tnese towers is now demolished.

This church suffered much from revolutionary
anarchy; but most of its valuable paintings and
sculptures have been restored, and the visiter may
now see a fine statue of the Virgin and Child, by
Pigalle, as well as some good pictures, by Vanloo.

The pulpit was constructed from designs by the
celebrated Lebrun.

The portal that faces La Rue des Prouvaires ispart
of the ancient church. Colbert, Vaugelas, La Posse
the painter, and seva^ other illustnous men were
buried at St. Eustache. The tomb of Cblbert was
executed by Coysevox and Tuby.

8te, Margxterite.
iRue St, Bernard.} I «,

The principal thing worthy of notice in this church
is a sepulchral chapel to the left of the choir, the
whole of which was painted by Brunetti. On the
pavement are thirty tombs, with inscriptions on
«aoh, taken from the sacred volume, and descriptiYe
of the 8h<»toi«as of li&, and the certainty of death.

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^44 8T» KI0OLA8 DBS OHAlfPS. ;

There was formeriy a medallion at the entrance,
indicating the tomb of the celebrated Vaucanson,
Behind the grand altar of the church, are the re-
mains of the monimient erected by Girardon the
sculptor, in memory of his wife. They were pre-
sented to this church by Louis XVIII. Some per-
sons have said that the dauphin, the son of Louis
XVI., was interred in the cemetery belonging to this
church.

St, Laurent.
[Rue du Faubourg St. Martm,'\ G 9.

This Gothic building formerly belonged to a monas-
tery that was destroyed by the Normans. It was
repaired and enlarged in the seventeenth century.
The grand altar is the work of Lepautre ; and the
taste of Blondel is conspicuous in the decorations of
the choir, and the chapel of the Virgin.

Chapelle Eocpiatoire de Louis XVL
[Rue d'Ahjou, St. Honor^.] D 9.

This expiatory chapel is situated on the spot where
Louis XVI. and his queen were buried in 1793.
Their remains, however, were removed at the Re-
storation to the abbey of St. Denis. It was erected
from designs by Fontaine, and is a neat parallelo-
gram, surmounted by a dome. In the interior are
fifteen niches, intended to receive statues of the
principal victims of the Revolution. A double stair-
case leads to a subterranean chapel, in which will
be placed a monument in memory of Louis XVI.
and Maria Antoinette.

St. Nicolas des Champs^

[Rue St. Martin.] G 8.
The external construction of this vast edifice is
purely Gothic, while the interior is strangely deco-

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Li. aoftBOHirE. 94$

xtdbBA m th« nKkkm styk. The pnlpit is w^rtliy^of
Botioe, and the grand altar ia well deaigned. The
paintmg over it, represanting the *' Assumption of
the Virgin," is by Vou^t^

St nomas dAqmn.
[RUQ SL Dammtque,] £ 4.

Was boot in 1783, frcMn desi^ by Bullet The
portal of this ehuroh, fom^ of the Dorio and
Ionic orders placed over each other, is meagre, and
ba^ proportioned ; but the interior of the building
is better worth attention. The ceiling of the (^oir»
representinj^ "The Transfiguration," by Lemoine,
excites universal admiration, and there is also a
tolerable pictiure of the Descent from the Cross, by
CKiefin*

Bt Mongols Xavier ; or^ the Church of the Foreign

Missionaries,

[Rue du BacJ]
The cur6 of this church is the superior of the ad^
eeit seminary for the education of persons qualified
to q)read the knowledge of the Grospel among the In-*
dians. The abbd Kdgeworth, the confessor of X^uis
XY I., was a member of this community. The builds
in^ whioh was erected in 1683, is divided into two
parts, in both of which service is pwformed. It con-
tains nothing remarkable but a fine painting of Carlo
ViMiloo» repres^tiog the Adoration of the Magi<

La Sorbonne,
[Place de la Sorbonne.} P 5.
Tma ehurch, and the college which was attached to
it, were founded by Robert de Sorbon. but aftw*
war^ rebuilt by Cardinal Richelieu. The first stone
of t|Na ehuroh was laid in 1635, but the building was
mi fta»^^ till 16^^« It is decorated with a portal

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Mtt 8Tc BOOH.

consistiiig of ten columns, supporting a pedBment^
bearing some resemblance to the portico of the Pan-
tl^on at Rome. The intericnr was. much injur^
during the Revolution, but it has since been repaired,
and the beautiful paintings of the dome by Philip de
Champagne are still preserved. This church con-
tains the mausoleimi of Cardinal de Richelieu, which
has been r^laced. It was executed byGirardon,
and is considered one of the finest specim^is of
modem sculpting.

The Academy of Paris occupies the buildings of
the Sorbonne.

St RocK
[Rue St. HonorL] E 3.

This edifice was begun by Mercier, in 1633, and not
finished until 1 736. Louis XIV. laid the first stone.
The fi-ont is composed of two orders of architecture,
the Doric and Corinthian, supporting a triangular
pediment, and is remarkable for its hghtness and
simplicity.

In the interior of the church, a richness and
lightness of ornament, almost theatrical, are sub-
stituted in the room of that grave and majestic style
which should characterize a place of religious wor-
ship. Being placed in a part of the city principally
inhabited by rich citizens, it was CTadually filled with
sculptures and paintings. It suffered much during
the frenzy of the Rev<3ution, and has not yet reco-
vered its former splendour. The pulpit is much ad-
mired ; it is formed of brown wainscoating, orna-
mented with gilding, and richly carved.

Above the altars are two beautiful paintings l^
Vien and Doyen. That by the former rejMnesents
St. Denis preaching in Gaul, and that by the latter
St. Genevidve healing the sick. Behind the choir are
three diapels. The first dedicated to the Vir^, is

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of a circular form, and its^ cupola ornamented by a
magnificent painting in fresco, by Pierre. The
Virgin appears to be surrounded by four distinct
companies, consisting of the Patriarchs, the Pro-
phets, the Holy Women of the Old Testament, and
me Apostles and Martyrs of the New Covenant.
The spectator deeply regrets the injuries which this
sublime composition has received, the unitjr, arrange^
ment, and execution of which excite his warmest
praise. On the altar is a group representing the
cradle and the infant Jesus, with the Virgin and St.
Joseph, executed in white marble by Augier ; and
at the sides are two figures of Strength and Pru-
dence, by the same hand.

The cupola of the second chapel describes the
Triumphs of Religion, to which it is dedicated.
On the altar are two angels, sculptured by Slodtz.

Two small portals conduct to 'the third chapel,
whose solemn style of architecture, whose obscurity,
and the sombre tint of the walls, are calculated to
impress the mind with religious awe. It contains a
fine painting of the " crucifixion." The light falling
on it from above, gives it a wonderful effect, and
singularly contrasts it with the cavernous darkness
of me chapel.

This church contains several other chapels. One
on the right, covered with black marble spotted
with white tears, announces that it was designed to
receive the ashes of the dead. It contains an elegant
monument in memory of Count d'Arcourt, as well
as the marble tomb of the philosopher Maupjertuis,
and the bust of Lenostre, to whom the principal
gardens in Prance are indebted for all their beauty.
The two statuaries Au^er likewise repose in this
asylum.

In the diapel opposite is the tomb of the Duke d6
Grequi, the monument of Cardinal Pubois, Ar^^

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S4a ABBA7E ra fAL W GRACE.

bishep of Oambray, and a Asa marble bast of the
painter Mknard.

Under trie oacgejck is a marble tablet, with aa in^
scsiption, ereot^ by the Duke of Orleans, to the
memoary of ConieiUe. The abb6 de r£p^e was also
binned in this churoh, and there is a medallion of
Marshal Asfeld.

Several of the monum^ts removed duxing the
devolution have been restored, and may be seen oik
apphoation to the sexton*

The steps and pillars of the portal bear tha
firightfol impression of numerous musket and oan-^
non balls, whi^ were direc^^d i^n^ the citixei^
of Paris on the fatal 13th of Ven&miaire^

The priQ(»pal festivals at this ehureh are the paro-
chial f^te, on the Sunday alter August 16th ; Kaster
Sunday ; Whit Sunday ; St, Louis's Day ; Mass on
January 25, founded l^ the kni^ts of St. Louis ;
!goly Thursday ; and Good Friday. On the latter
day, stranjgers will find plaoes und^ the organ the
b^ situatm for vieimg the %ur9 of Christ at tb#
eoA of the church.

Ahhaye du Vol de €hrace„
[Rtte du Faubourg SL Jacqves,} F 6.

Tms edifiee was erected by Queen Anne of Austria,
the wife of Louis XIIL, as a mark of gratitude to^
God lor the bdrth of Louis XIV.,|who laid the fiM
stone o£ the building when he was seven years of
age. It was designed by Mansard, and was at firsi
apiHTOiHriated to religious worship), but is now eon-
verted into an hospital magaime. The peouhar
beauty of the structure is, however, oare&u]y pre^
served. The marble pavem^t^ and the pamtinga
of the dome, by Mignard, are uninjured. ThcSe
last eoi^Utute the noblest rr&ek in fresco which
Rranoe poasesi^ Tbfy oqotam more than Wl

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ST. 8ULPI0K.

S4»

colosssal figures, representing the dorf of the saints
in heaven. Molidre has celebrated this performance
of Mignard in a poem ^rritten expressly on the
subject.

In this church the connoisseur will likewise be
gratified by an opportunity of studying the exquisite
bas-reliefs of Augier. They consist of six cdossal
busts of the Holy Vir^, Joseph, Ann, Joachim,
Elizabeth, and Zacharias. The decorations of the
altar are unusually magnificent. The canopy is in
imitation of that of St. Peter's at Rome.

The edifice was destined to contain the hearts of
the royal family of France, and particularly those of
the house of Orleans, while their bodies rested in the
cathedral of St. Denis. A beautiful enclosure in
the chapel of the dome formerly contained more than
thirty of these precious relics. The garden attached
to the hospital contains a collection of medicinal
plants.

Strangers may visit the Church by application at
the office to the right of the entrancCy out they are
not allowed to see the hospital,

St. Sulpice,

[Near the Litxembourg.] £ 5.

This edifice was commenced in 1646, and not
finished till 1733. Anne of Austria laid the first
9tone.

The majestic portico was the work of ServandonL
Its grand proportions, the boldness of the design,
and the sublime effect which it produces, are uni-
versally acknowledged. It is composed of two
orders, the Doric and the Ionic, placed above each
other. The Doric columns are forty feet high, and
five fieet in diameter, with an entablatvu^ of ten feet.
The Ionic pillars axe thirty-eight feet in height, and

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S50 BV.VOLWIOE.

fbur feef j^ht inohes in cHamtUr, vrithaii aubblft**
ture of nine feet.

A tower elevates itself on each side jof the portieo^
to the height of 210 feet. They were originally ol
a different style of architeoture, and were not aup-
posed to aocord well with the other parts oi the
building. They are indebted to M, Chalgrin for
their present appearance.

The interior of the building, in wlueh the Corin-
thian order reigns, is not less interesting than the
exterior. The composition of the principal altar
between the nave and the choir is grand and sub-
lime. Its form is that of an ancient tomb of beau*
tifiil marble.

The spacious ehov is decorated with painted win-
dows of scriptural suljects, and with the colossal
atatues of our Saviour, St. Peter, St. Paul, and St.
John the Evangtlist, by Bouchardon. It is termi*
nated by a ma^iificent chapel, dedicated to the Vir*
gp, l^ Pigalle. Above the altar of white maxble
rise some columns of blue marble of the Composite
order, with gilt chapiters, supporting an entablature
crowned by numerous figures in bronze. The cu-

Eola, inimitably representing *• the Assumption," is
y Lemoine: and the ingenious manner in which
the light is admitted produces a magical efPect.

Several of the otho* diapels are entitled to atten*
tion, particularly that of St. Roch, painted in fresco
bv M. A. Pujol in 1821, and that of St. Maurice,
]uiewise painted in fresco by M. Vincent in 1822.

In a onapel to the right of the pulpit is a monu«
ment by Slodtz, to the memory of Languet de Gemr,
former^ pastor ef this church; a^ in anotmr
chapel is a picture by Mignard, representing St.
Michael combating Satan.

The pulpit is of curious constmietion, bekig en«
tiroly supported by two fli^its of steps. It W|tt ttw
gift of the late Marshal Eichelieu.

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The ^resiBels ooiitaiiiing the holy water &te curiously
formed of two immense shells, which the Republic
of Venice presented to Francis I. They are placed
on a rock executed by Pigalle.

On the pavement of the church is traced the me-
ridian of Paris, which was executed by Henry Sully,
the astronomer.

This interesting edifice was sadly despoiled during
the Vandal age of the Revolution.

The subterranean church is remarkable for its
extent ; and gives a tolerable idea of the andent
catacombs.

NStre Dame des Victoires; or. Petite Peres,
{Near La Place des Victoires.] F 3»

To the inattentive observer this edifice wiH present
nothing remarkable ; but the man of taste will per*
ceive, in the general style of its architecture, and of
all its ornaments, that noble simplicity which should
characterise a temple consecrated to the worship of
the Great Supreme.

The choir is adorned with seven pictures by Van-
loo : that over ^e grand altar contains portraits of
Louis XIII. and Cardinal Richelieu* Lully, ttie ce*
lebrated musician, was buried in this church, and a
monument raised to his honour.

St, Philippe du Roule,
{Rue du Faubourg du Roule,] C 2*

Tflis church will likewise please, from its simplidfy
and its resemblance to the edifices of the ancient
Christians. It was commenced in 1769, and finished
in 1784, from designs by Chalgrin. The portal is
composed of four columns of the Doric order, sur-
mounted by a triangular pediment. At the extremil^
of the peristyle* are two chapels, dfldkated to th«

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259 ST. NICHOLAS DU CHARDONKCT.

Virgin and St. PhiHp, which were designed to sup-
port two towers. The arches of the roof are of wood,
but painted in such close imitation of stone, that
they cannot possibly be distinguished from it.

St. Pierre (fu Gros Caillou.

[Rue St. Dominique.'} E 4.

This is a neat modem building, from designs by
M. Godde. The portico consists of four Tuscan
columns, surmounted by a pediment, and the roof is
richly ornamented.

St. Bennett.
{Rue St. Jacques.} F 5.

Is supposed to have been originally foimded by St.
Denis. Baron, the celebrated actor, was buried
here in 1729, and Lalande, the astronomer, in 1807»

St. Elizabeth.
[Rue du Temple.] G 8.
This church was built in 1628, for the nuns of the
order of St^ Francis. The portal is pleasingly
formed of Doric and Ionic pilasters. The archi-
tecture of the interior is Doric.

St. Francois ct Assise.
[Rue du Perche.] G 4.

This edifice was built in 1623 for a convent of
Capuchins, and is mentioned here on account of its
great simplicity. It contains a fine statue of St»
Francis in Egyptian marble.

St. Nicholas du Chardonnet.

[Rue St. Victor.} G 5.

This otherwise pleasing church presents a strangely

unfinished appearance, from the want of a portal.

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L*KOLISX DB LJL VISITATIOK. 853

It is decorated with sevaral paintings by Lebrun,
-whose tomb constitutes its pnncipal (nnament. It
was executed by Coysevox, and near it is the monu-
ment which Lebrun erected to the memory of his
mother. Here hkewise may be seen the tomb of
Santeuil, the Latin poet, wiui an epits^h by Rollin.

St, Jacques du Haut Pas,

[Aue St. JacqueM.] F 5.

This church was built on the ruins of an ancient
chapel, by Ann of Bourbon, duchess of Longueville,
in 1684. Her heart was interred here. The ashes
of the celebrated Cassini, and of the virtuous Cochin,
^e cure of this parish, who sold all his property,
and even his library, to found an hospital for ms
indigent parishioners, repose here.

Abbaye Royale de Port RoyalJ
[Rue de la Bourbe.} F 6.

This beautiful edifice was built by Lepautre, in 1646,
and exhibited that mingled simplicity and grandeur
which its sacred destination required. It is now
converted into an hospital for foundlings. A colos-
sal statue of St. Vincent de Paul, by Stouf, has been
much admired.

Eglise de la Visitation.
[Rue St. Antome.] H 5.

This little church was built by Francis Mansard.
Its appearance is pleasing, and it gave to the ne-
phew of Francis the idea of the magnificent dome
of the Invalids. Although the production of an
artist so celebrated, it must be acknowledged that
neither its plan, nor its elevation, gives an idea of
that perfect good taste and delicacy of execution
which his other edifices exhibit.
Z

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fU4i tJB Pkvfnu&tK.

The dodster, the house, dud tiie ^tH^S bf th^
"Visitation, have been demolished ot sold. The
ehurch alone remains, and is now consecrated to
the Protestant form of worship.

Le PdntMon.

The Pantheon ; or. Church of St.- Genevieve.

[At the end of the Rue St. Jacques,^ F 5.

The Pantheon was begun in 1764, from designs by
Soufflot, but was completed under the direction of
Rondelet. It is inthe form of a cross, 339 feet lon^»
and 253 broad. Tne portal, in imitation of tha£ of
the Pantheon at Rome, consists of a noble peristyle
oi twenty- two dorintliian coliunns. !t)ach column is
five feet and a half in diameter, and fifty -eight in
height. The flowers of the chapiters are highly
finished. These columns form a spacious porch,
112 feet in length, and 36 deep. It is ornamented
by four colosssi statues, producing ah imposing and
grand effect. Upon the plinth is the following ih-
seriptidn:

B.O.Mj SUB INVOC. S. GBNOTEF^. LtJD. XV. DICAVIT,

itJii. kvin. kEifTiTulT.

The front of the building within the p6i-ch unites
the mascuhne air of the Gothic Ifvith tne beauty of
the Grecian architecture.

The interior of the temple consists of four naves*
decorated with 130 Corihthirin columns, supporting
an entablature, which serves aS a basement to the
galleries, skirted with stonfe bklustradts. Above
rises a lofty dome, tesembling a circular temple,
fbrmed of fifty-two pillai^, each fifty-four feet high,
slijiported by a circular basement, whirfi rises above
Ah octangular sub-basement. This dome v^ sur-
mounted by another smaller, which, not being ter-

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I«]l PiVTHVON. 96S

nyinaied l^ any %ure or omaioeiit, htm a mth^
unpleasing appearp.noe. The whole is surmounted
by a terrace, protected by an iron balustrade. The
U^ta\ height of the building is 28^ feet The miserable
houses by which it wes once surrounded have been
pulled down> and the approach has been much imr
^x)ved.

The bold and U^ht style of the architeeture, in
which it was originally built, had newly hwarded
the destruction of the whole edifice. The pillarv
which supported the dome began to bend undw itp
enormous weight; and it was only by sacrificing
somewhat of its beauty, and introducing confusion
into the style of the whole, that Rondelet was enable4
to preserve it from ruin. He placed twelve new
iH)lumns under the dome ; and by the Inightness of
the ^ding, and the beauty of the painting, very
skilfully endeavoured to conceal the injury he was
^oing to the coup-d'oeil of tiie edifice, f he eonnjns-
seur wUl, however, perceive a disagreeable contrast
between the original lightness of the no-ves and th§
massiveness of the centre of the building.

The paintings with which the dom@ is enriched
are by Baron £ Gros. They cover a surface of 3^56
ieet, and may justly rank among the best specimeii^
of tiie French school.

The fore^ound is occupied by four groups unitei
by angels and numerous accessaries, Each of these
groups surrounds one of the four fVeneb monparchs,
"who by the splendour of their r^gns, and by then:
influence on their ages, created epochs in the history
of France.

The first is Clovis, who, by the persuasion of
Queen Ste. Clotilde, renounced the worship of false
gods, and acknowledged the truth of Christianity.

Charlema^e and his consort denote the second
epoch. With one hand he raises the globe, the sym-

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256 LE PJLNTHSON.

bol of empire, and with the other guarantees the

Preservation of his laws, and the maintenance of the
Fniversity.

The thud epoch is indicated by a ^up surround-
ing St. Louis, who is showing his wife, Margaret of
Provence, the happyresult of his endeavours to pro-
mote the religion and prosperity of his subjects.
Before him angels bear the standards of his two
crusades, and on his left a wreath of thorns placed
on u cushion, intimates that he exchanged a regal
for a martyr's crown.

The fourth epoch, or the restoration, is denoted
by Louis XVII 1., who is accompanied bv the daugh-
ter of Louis XVI., and is protecting witn his sceptre
the young Duke of Bourdeaux. Two angels hold open
the charter, while others are removing the funeral
drapery in which the cradle of the infant had been
enveloped.

The greater part of these personages are rendering
homage to Ste. Grenevidve, who is descending on a
cloud, and appears to manifest her tender sohcitude
ifor the children of St. Louis.

In an upper region are seen Louis XVL, his queen
Marie Antoinette, and the young Louis XVII., who
appear ddight^ to find that their relation Madame
Elizabeth is associated with them in the holy assem-
bly. At the most elevated point a dazzhng light
announces tlie entrance of the heavens and the seat
of the Divinity.

The purpose to which the Pantheon was devoted
was worthy of the magnificence of the building. It
was designed to contain the ashes of those who have
deserved well of their countiy . The inscription which
was placed in fi-ont of the temple, but which has
been removed, was simple and sublime : —

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LA PATRIE BEC0NNAISSAN7JI*

Dedicated by a grateful Country to its illwttrious
Men,

The vaults under the church are skilfully contrived ;
and a^ neither dark, damp, nor gloomy, They eon-
^st of galleries lined with cells. In thase ceUs, all
nearly of the san^e si^e, the bodies are deposited,
e^h in a stoiie sarcopha^s, of exactly the same
s^e and form. An inscnption relates iQerely the
naq^e, i\\& dig^ty, and age, of the deceased. Over
the door of each cell is llie Greek n^onogram of
Jesus Christ, xp., and the letters a and n.

AiQongst the eminent men deposited in these
vaults were Voltaire, Rousseau, M^sha) Lannes,
the Dutch Adpiiral de Winter, liagrange tl^e mathe-
matician, and Bougainville the circumnavig9,t;er.

Many of the illustrious dea4 have (lowever already
bee^ talien away, and it is proposed to remoye them
all. The tombs of Voltaire and Rousseau have been
taken from their original situation, ^nd placed in an
obscure vault, wl^erp they are concealed #on^ public
vjew.

^t the end of one of the passages in these vaults
is a remarkable echo.

The church of St. Genevieve was consecrated Jan.
iSj 1832, by the iVrchbishop of Paris, ^4 diviiie ser-
vice is now performed in it.

The principal festivals are Jan. 3d (St. Gene-
vieve's Day) ; Nov. 26th (Parochial FSte) ; Easter
Sunday ; Whit Sunday, and the F6te Dieu. On
these occasions the Archbishop of Paris generally
o^ci^tes.

The Pantheon is alwatfs open from 10 tilf 6, and
guides are constantly tn atten4<^ince to conduct
strangers to any part qf the buildings

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25S JEWISH 8TKA00QUES.

The sumnut of the dome commands a fine view of
the metropolis.

Attached to St. Genevidve, is an extensive collec-
tion of books. See Libraries,

PROTESTANT CHURCHES.

Paris contains foinr churches dedicated to the Protes-
tant worship ; viz, the ancient church of the Oratoire,
Rue St. Honor6. The regularity of the architecture, .
and the exact proportions of the Corinthian order,
which reign throughout the building have been much
admired. Service is performed here every Sunday at
half-past ten, by French or Swiss Protestant clergy-
men, and at three, by an English clergyman.

The chaplain of the American embassy, who is an
Independent, also preaches here at a quarter past
two o'clock, in a small chapel behind the upper part
of the church.

The ancient church of the Visitation, Rtte St. An-
toine, already described. Service generally begins at
11 o'clock.

The church of the Lutherans, formerly of the Car-
melites, Rue des Billettes. This is a bnilding on a
small scale, and altogether without taste. Service is
peformed here every Sunday at 12, altematdy in
French and German.

The Panthemont, Rue de Grenelle.

An English Protestant chapel is also situated at
the Hotel Marboeuf, in the Champs £lys6es. It was
first opened in 1824. Service commences every
Sunday, at 11 o'clock, and at seven o'clock.

JEWISH SYNAGOGUES,

The synagogues of the Jews are in Rue St. Avoie ;
Rue des Petits Champs St. Martin ; Rue des Blancs
Manteaux; Rue G^ofiroy 1' Angevin; and Rue du
Cimetidre, St Andr6 des Arts.

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CONTBKTS. t50

CONVENTS.

Many of the convents will afford matter of curiosity
to Hie stranger ; and it will not be c^cult to gain
admittance to the chapels of most of them.

The convent of the Benedictines is in Rue du
Kegard ; and that of the En^sh Benedictines, in
Rue des Fosses St. Victor. The Palais du Tem-
ple, already noticed, has been transformed into
a convent of Benedictines. The public are admitted
to the chapel during service on Sundays, but it may
be seen on any dav by application to the porter. The
convent is never shown.

The Carmelites have three houses : No. 2, Rue
Maillet ; Rue d'Enfer ; and Rue de Vaugirard. The
painted dome of the chapel in the last of these has
been much admired. It represents the transfiguration
of the prophet Elijah, by Bertholet FlameL In this
convent thie cannibids of the 2d and 3d of September
commenced their horrible massacres.

The Nuns of our Lady of Charity are in Rue St
Jacques. Their convent forms a species of female
penitentiary, and is appropriated for tiie reception of
those whom parental wisdom or caprice consigns to
a temporary or lasting confinement and pimishment.

The Dominicans are in Rue d' Angouleme and Rue
Moreau. Their principal employment is the edu-
cation of young ladies.

The interesting society of the Sisters of Charity,
whose lives are devoted to assuage the pains and heal
the diseases of the most miserable ot their fellow-
creatures, have their principal convent in Rue du
Vieux Colombier.

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9dQ THS 0iTAOQ«BS.

THE CATACOMBS.

[Ne^r the Bamfere d'Eofer,] p 6,

Tsif centimes ago the burialrgrounds ' of Paris were
without the walls of the city ; but as the buildings of
the metropolis extended in every direction, they were
in process of time surrounded by human habitations ;
and, at length, were almost in the heart of the town.
They were few in number, and confined in space ;
the Parisians Were, therefore, compelled to adopt a
mode of burial, which, in England, would be thought
to outrage decency and humanity. Vast trenches
were opened, twenty feet deep, as many in length,
and six or eight feet wide. Into these corpse Ster
corpse was flung, until the putrid heap nearly reached
the^ surfece of the ground. The earth was thea
thrown over them, and a similar trench dug dose by
their side.

Long before tiiis loalhsome mass could be perfectly-
decomposed, the ground was again opened, and the
air was loaded with ofPensiye and ]3oisonou8 exhala-
tions. The nuisance continued to increase until the
neighbourhood of the cemeteries proverfoi^y became
the abode of every pestilentisd disease. Government
at length interfered. All biuials were forbidden within
the walls, except in a few of the churches ; and the
mass of corruption was afterwards conveyed from the
place where it still continued to infect the air. Thia
enormous mass included the remains of all who had
been bvuied during more than ten centuries.

The bones were s^arated, and carefully cleaned,
and piled in some of the immense gallenes of the
quarries, by which a considerable part of the city is
undermined ; and the name of ** the Catacombs" was
given to this new receptacle of 4he dead, in imitation
of similar excavations, appropriated to, the same

Digitized by Google

>d by Google

TUK CATACOMBS. 261

purpose, in Rome, MUan, Naples, and ancient.
Thebes.

Behind the Barri^re d'Enfer on the right is a lane,
on the left-hand side of which is the descent into these
dreary,' yet interesting, caverns. A narrow staircase
of eighty steps, winding down a circular well, leads to
a gaUery or avenue, hewn out of the solid rock, and
varying from three to four feet in width, and from six
to seven in height. The stone is clean, white, and
dry, and thickly studded with shells, and various ma-
rine antediluvian remains. Numerous passages branch
off on either side, some of which are said to extend
more than three miles, under the plain of Montrouge,
through the whole of the subinrbs of St. Jacques and
St. G^^main, and even a considerable way on the north
of the river. Many of these avenues were prudently
stopped when they became the resort of banditti.
Occasionally the passage widens into spacious, but
low-roofed, halls ; sometimes supported by artificial
columns, and often by masses of the native rock.
From these halls many avenues branch off in various
directions.

The stranger is accompanied by a guide, who con-
ducts him in safety through this inmiense labyrinth,
and who is himself directed by a black line traced on
the ceiling through tiie whole of the course which he
is to pursue. Every stranger, on entering the Cata-
comltt, will iind it necessary to have a wax taper in
his hand, which may be pin-chased on the spot, and
never to lose sight of the guide. After the traveller
has proceeded a quarter of a mile, he should inquire
for the gallery of Port-Mahon. A soldier, who had
accompanied Marshal Richelieu in the expedition
against Minorca, was, on his return, compelled by
necessity to work in these quarries. During the
hours of refreshment, he employed himself in model-
ling in relief a plan of Port-Mahon. The execution

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S6t THB GATACOXBS.

is, as might be expected, sufficiently rude, but die aisw
curacy of the representation is acknowledged by every
competent judge, and the whole is highly creditable
to the ingenuity, the memoiy and the patience of the
soldier, who, ignorant of architecture, completely
without assistance, and almost without instruments,
nearly accomplished the singular and arduous under?
taking. It is painful to add, that he was afterwards
crushed by the sudden fall of a mass of rocks.

At a little distance is another curiosity, which pro-
bably will not be shown, unless the traveller inquires
for it. Some enormous fragments of stone are so
nicely balanced on a base, hardly exceeding a point,
that they rock with eveiy blast of wind, and threaten
to overwhelm the curious observer ; yet in this ec^^ui-
librium they have hung for more than two centunes«
and it would probably require a gigantic force to re<P
move them from their position.

After proceeding more than half a mile, the stranger
arrives at another low-roofed hall, in which is a black
door, supported by two Tuscan pilasta^, with this
inscription : —

Has ultra melas requiescunt, beatam tpem expectanles^

( BeyQnd these bounds rest the dead, awaiting tl^e joyful
hope of immortality.)

This is the entrance to the Catacombs. It admits
to another long avenue, the walls of which are lined
with bones from the floor to the roof. The large
bones of the arms, legs, and thighs, are in front,
closely and neatly piled together, and their uniformity
relieved by three rows of sculls, at equal distances.
Behind these iire thrown the smsdler bones.

This avenue conducts to several apartments re-
sembling chapels, the walls of which are lined with
bones, variously and often tastefully arranged ; and,
in the centre of the chapel, or in niches in the waDs,

Digitized by VjOOQI-

at« taseis and altats, some of which are formed en-
tirely of human bones, and others are ingeniously or-
namented with skulls of different sizes. One or two
of these altars are of an antique form, and composed
of the solid rock. They stood here before these (;a-
vems were appropriated to their present destination.
One of them has certainly occupied its present situ-
ation from time immemonal, and has given nse to the
not improbable conjecture that these secret and deep
recesses were used as places of worship, either by the
Gauls or by the early Christians, during the perse-
cution which followed the first preaching of the Gos-
pel in these parts.

These chapels contain numerous inscriptions;
some of them simply indicating the cemetery whence
each mouldering pile ofbones was removea; others
too strongly remmding the reader of the atheistical
era of the Revolution; and a very few displaying
considerable feeling and good taste.

One chapel is dedicated to those who perished oh

the horrible 2d and dd September. The altair bears

this simple, yet affecting, inscription :—

D.M.

II. et III.

Sepmbr.

1792.

(" To. the memory of the victims of the 2d and ^d of

September, 1792.*')

!the bones are concealed behind a black wall.
An inscription, in another pari; of the Catacombs,
is altogether as revolting : —

Ici soiit inhumes
LXXXVII. metres cubes
D'dssemens, redueillls
Danft le cimetidre des InnocenS,
Bu 19 Janvier au 19 Mars, 1811.

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264 THE OATJLOOMBS.

(" Here are deposited 87 cubic metres of bones,
collected from the cemetery of the Innocents, between
the 19th January and 19th March, 1811.")

That man must have been utterly destitute of taste
and feeling, who suggested the record of this disgust-
ing admeasurement of the perishing remains of the
human frame.

In one part of the Catacombs is a reservoir embel-
lished with various sculptures, and containing several
gold fish.

The calculations of different visiters and authors
vary as to the number of bones collected in this vast
charnel-house. It is certain that there are more than
three millions of human skulls : some writers have
asserted that the Catacombs contain six millions.

A faint mouldering smell pervades these gloomy
caverns, but not to any unpleasant or deleterious
degree.

Before he quits the Catacombs, two museums are
shown to the stranger. The first is a collection of
all the fossil remains, mineral productions, spars, &c.,
which these quarries afford. Some of the specimens
are curious and beautiful. The other, which is prin-
cipally interesting to the medical traveller, are speci-
mens of the various diseases of the bones, selected
from this immense repository, and scientifically ar-
ranged. Here is -also a table on which are exposed
skulls remarkable for their structure.

Having quitted Uie Catacombs by a portal, bear-
ing this beautiful and appropriate quotations-
Felix qui potuit rerum cognoscere causas,
Atque melus omnes, et irrevocabile fatum
Subjecit pedibus, strepitumque Acherontis avari !

the traveller again follows a black line traced on the
roof, which conducts him to another staircase ; as-
cending this, he finds himself about 600 yards east

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C£1I«TSEIE8. 265

of the road to Orleans, which he had crossed under
ground, and more than half a mile from the place at
which he descended.

In order to obtain admission to the CatacambSf
application must be made to M. ring6nieur en chef
dies Mines, Rue Poultier, No. 7, Isle St. Louis. They
are no longer open to strangers on the production
of their passports, as they are undergoing repair,

A work 01 peculiar interest, containing the history
of this extraordinary place, is published by M. Bos-
sange, P^re, in Paris.

CEMETERIES.

The practice of interment in the churches and church*
yards jof Paris prevailed till 1773, when the parha-
ment, becoming alarmed at the evils caused by the
exhalations from these receptacles of the dead, or-
dered the cemetery of the Innocents to be shut up ;
and this was in a few years followed h^ the closing
of all the buiying-grounds in the interior of Paris.
Hie cemeteries are now in the vicinity, and are much
frequented as promenades, particularly on "Sundays.
On All Souls Day, or F^te des Morts, there is a
sort of holy, melancholy, and sentimental pilgrimage,
which is of the most impressive description : crowds
of Parisians may then be seen bending over the
graves of their relatives.

Cemetery of Mont Louis, or Phre La Chaise. K 4.

This celebrated burial-place was originally denomi-
nated Champ tEvique, but consisted only of six
acres. In the 14th century, Regnaud, a rich grocer,
enchanted with its beautiful scenery and noble pros-
pects, selected it as the site of a mansion, so superb,
that it was deemed by many too splendid for the rank
8 A

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S66 CEMSf^RIES.

of its proprietor, and soon acquired Ihe nam^ of
Respiaud's folly.

In 1626 it fell into the hands of the Jesuits^ and ac-
cording to tradition, it was from this place that Louis
XIV., when a child, witnessed the battle in the Fau-
bourg St. Antoinei July 2d, 1652, which was given by
Marshal Turenne, the commander of the royal ariny,
in honour of the great Cond6, who was then chief of
the Slingers. Hence this spot derived the name of
Mont />oMt>, which it stiU retains. For its second
and more general appellation of Pere la Chaise, it
is indebted to the following circumstances : —

Pdre la Chaise, one of the Jesuits to whom the
estate belonged, was in 1675 appointed confessor to
Louis XIV., who became his ardent patron, and gave
him the control of the ecclesiastical affairs of the
kingdom. This, added to the office with which he was
already invested, occupied him so intensely, that oc-
casional retirement b^ame necessary ; and the king
wishing to offer him some mark of his approbation^

Presented him with the estate of Mont Louis. The
ouse was rebuilt on an enlarged scale, the grounds
were extended, and the gardens furnished wiui every
thing calculated to please the eye, or gratify the
taste.

After the death of P^re la Chaise, Mont Louis was
occupied as a country-house by the Jesuits, and be-
came the scene of their numerous intrigues. The re-
vocation of the edict of Nantes is said to have been
projected at this place, and hence were issued many
of the letires de cachet which consigned the enemies
of the Jesuits to imprisonment.

In 1 763, when the order of the Jesuits was abo-
lished ill France, Mont Louis was ordered io be sold,
for the benefit of their creditors. It was afterwards
inhabited by numerous proprietors, who followed each
other in rapid succession, as tiie expense of such an

Digitized by Google

«st9,blishment soon swallowed up the whole of ar
slender fortune, and materially diminished the most
wealthy. It was finally purchased by the Prefect of
the Seme, and laid out m 1804, as a cemetery, under
the direction of M. Brongniart.

The house of Pere la Chaise has since been taken
down, and a chapel erected on its site. Traces of the
ditch which surrounded it are yet visible, and the
water, which still continues to flow by a subterranean
channel, is used by the gardener for moistening Uie
shrubs around the tombs.

The cemetery of Pere la Chaise is situated on the
east side of Paris, at the extremity of the Boulevards,
near the Barriere d'Aulnay. It is the largest of the
oemeteries in the vicinity ol' the French metropolis, and
now contains from eighty to one hundred acres, pleas-
ingly diversified by hSil, plain, and valley. The irregu-
larity of the ground renders it extremely picturesque,
and its beauty is still further increased by the gloomy
foliage of its cypress-trees, shading tombs ot every
form. Few situations command so extensive and
varied a prospect. On the west is seen the whole of
Paris ; on the south, Bicltre and Meudon ; on the
east, tiie plain of St. MandS, Mojitreipl, Vincennes,
and the banks of the Mame ; and on the north,
Belleville and Montmartre.

This cemetery contains three kinds of graves : 1st.
The Fosses Communes ^ or public graves, 4^ feet deep,
in which the poor are buried gratuitously in coflins
placed close to each other. These are re-opened
every ^yq years, that time being quite sufiicient in
this soil to decompose the bodies. 2d. The tempo-
rary graves, which, on the pa3rment of 50 ft-anes, are
held for ten years, but must be given up at the end of
of that term, although monuments may have been
created over them. 3d. The perpetual graves, which
are purchased ftt 250 francs per metre, and over

Digitized by Google

S68 CXMETSRIS6.

which perpetual monuments may be erected. The
temporary graves may be made perpetual by purchase
previous to the expiration of the ten years, and the
50 francs originally paid are then deducted from the
purchase-money.

The iirst funeral took place May 21, 1804, and
since that period more than 90,000 persons have been
buried here, exclusive of those from the hospitalsr
Many of the tombs are distinguished for their archi-
tectural beauty, and others contain the remains of
men who delighted the world by their writings, in-
structs it by their wisdom, and embellished it by
their genius.

The entrance to the cemetery is situated in ^e
centre of a semicircular recess, and is adorned with
cippi and funereal ornaments. Over the gate is this
inscription : —

scio enim quod redbmptor

^Meus vivit bt in

novissimo die de terra.

surrecturus sum.

Job* xix. 85,

Joan. xi. 85.

On the right side is inscribed,

Qui CREDIT IN ME
EtIAM 81 MORTUUB
FUERIT VIVBT.

And on the left,

Spes illorum
Immortalitatb
Plena, est.

Sapient, iii. 4.

Beyond the gate is an open space between two
avenues, to the right of which is the house of the
keeper, the porter's lodge and stonemason's work*
shops. To the left are ihe fosses communes, or pub-
lic graves, and in front appears the chapeL A smaU

Digitized by Google

PB&B il 01UIIE. f 60

jpiiDe to ^e right of the porter's lodge, is approi»iated
to the buiial of Jews, but the whole of the other part
of this extensive cemetery is devoted to the interment
of persons of all ranks and all religions.

The chapel is a neat building surmounted by a cross
of white marble, and illupiinated by a window in the
centre of the roof. It is 56 feet long, 28 broad, and
about 56 in height. The level ground in front of
this building commands a fine view.

It would require weeks to notice all the tombs in
this delightful spot, but the stran^a? may find the
most remarkable by visiting them in the following
order. Their situation will be seen immediately on
reference to the Plan.

The most interesting monument is the tomb of
Abelard and Heloise, which is situated to the right
of the entrance near the Jew's burial-ground. This
tomb actually contsuns the ashes of the two lovers.

Abelard died at the Priory of St. Marcel de Cha-
lons sur Sadne, April 21, 1 142, and was bmied there.
In November following* Pierre de Gluni caused his
body to be dandestindy removed, and sent to He-
Ipise, at the Paraclete. She placed the coffin of her
lover in a chapel which he had constructed there.

Heloise expired on Sundajr the 17th of May, 1163,
^d her body was deposited in the coffin of her hus-
band, agreeably to her own directions. In 1497, this
poffin was removed from the chapel, and transferred
into the great church of the monasterv ; but the bones
of the two bpdies were separated, ana two tombs were
erected, one on each side the choir. In 1630, Marie
de la Rochefoticauld directed them to«be placed in
the pai^ called the Chapel of the Trinity ; and, in
1766, Madame Roye de la Kochelbucauld jH-ojected
a new monument in honour of the two lovers, but it
was not erected till after her death, in 1 779. This
nonument was composed <rf the group of the Trinity,

^ A 8

Digitized by Google

S7a 0KMBTERIX6.

which had been sculptured by order of Abelard, and
of a base on which was inscribed the following epitaph,
said to have been written by Marmontel :—

Hie
Sub eodem marmore jaceQt

Hujus Monasterii

Conditor Petrus Abelardas

Et abbatissa prima Heloisa.

Olim studiis, ingenio, amoie, infaustis nuptiis

Et poeDitenti^y

Nunc leteroa, quod speramus^ felicitate

CoDJUDCti.

iPetrus obiit XX. prima Aprilis, anno 1142,

Heloisa XVII. Maii, 1163.

Curis Carolse de Roucy Paraclete abbatissa,

1779.

The monument now in Pere la Chaise is a Gothic
chapel f(Hmed out of the ruins of the celebrated Ab-
bey of Paraclete, by M. Lenoir, and originally placed
in the internal court of the Museum of French
Monuments. Its form is a parallelogram 14 feet by
11, and its height is 24 feet A pinnacle 12 feet in
height, rises from the centre of the root and four
smaller pinnacles ornament the comers. Fourteen
columns, each six feet in height, and adorned with
rich capitals, support ten arches, siumounted by
wcnrked cornices. The principal pediment contains
two busts and a bas-relief^ divided into three parts :
the centre represents Mount Calvary ; the left, Abe-
lard in his monastic dress ; and the right, an angel
holding in his arms the soul of Abelard. The oppo-
site pedimei4 presents a bas-relief of Abelard's nme-
ral> and two roses ; and the other two pediments are
adorned with roses.

In this chapel is placed the tomb built for Abelard
by, Peter the Venerable, at the Priory of St MarceL
He is represented in a recumbent posture, and at his

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FBRE LA GHAI8B. 271

ade is the statue of Heloise. The bas-relie& round
the sarcophagus represent the &thers of the church,
and there are inscriptions referring to the erection
and removal of the monument.

To the left of this monument, between the avenues
leading to the Chapel, lie the remains of Sonnini,
the celebrated naturalist, and Mend of Buffon, and
those of Mme. Barilli, who was for a long time the
first singer at the Italian Opera.

Further towards the East, is the tomb of Malua,
who distinguished himself by his discoveries in phi-
losophy ; and just beyond it are the remains otDe-
lamore, the astronomer, and Dr. HallSy the physician.

Near the steps, ascending to the left end of the
terrace before the Chapel, is an elegant cenotaph
to the memory of Lenoir Dufresne, a noted cotton
manufacturer; and at some distance to the S. is the
bust of Ravrio, an ingenious artist and poet.

To the right is the tomb of M. Garreau, whose
wife is represented deploring his death ; and a little
b^ond it, that of Lallemant, a law-student, who was
killed b^ one of the guards during a riot in 1820.

The visiter tiien arrives at what may be termed the
classical ground of this cemetery ; and beholds suc-
cessively the monuments of Haiiy, the mineraJo^st ;
Fourcro^, the chemist ; Fan Spaendoncky an immit-
able painter of flowers ; Chenier, the poet ; Ber-
nardin St, Pierre, the author of the Studies and
Harmonies of Nature ; Madame Dugazon, the ac-
tress ; Visconti, the antiquary ; Mercier, the author
of Le Bonnet de Nuit, &c. ; Grctry, the composer ;
Jacques Delille, the Virgil of France ; the Chevalier
De Bouflers ; Mentelle, the celebrated geographer ;
and Brongniarty the artist, under whose direction
this cemetery was laid out. Delille's tomb is sur-
rounded by a small garden, and inclosed by an iron
railing, but without an inscription except his name

>d by Google

9^9 PHIPITBjipfis,

f)v«r t^e entr^noe ; cmd Qhemer's h^ fi^y ^ ^9^'*
iQfwmg siflspie epitaph :

Marie Joseph Chenier,

N6 i Constantinople en ItBi^

Mortd Paris en ISll.

A short diaitanee N. Bast of Delille's td«b> is a
monument surmounted by the representatiQn of a
balloon, indicating the spot where Mackmns J^hmh-
flwtf is interred ; and close to it is the grave of the
coiQposw M^uL To the right of the latter, are
thre6 tombs entitled to attention ; that of Mciifame
MaHet, surmounted by the Virgin and inlwit Jesus,
executed by 0uersaut; th^t of Cqiuit Mouge,
«^ed by his pupils, and adorned with his bust ;
and that of the Duke de Frias, who w^is ambassador
from Spain to the court of Franpe, un4^ the reigns
of Charles XV., Joseph Buonaparte, and Ferdinand
VII.

Between these monuments and the Qhapel are the
tombs of F. Hauy, who %st taught the blind to
procure their own subsistence ; QuenmUj the transr
lator of Pliny, imd the authw of a French iGrrammar ;
FeHty who was professor of natural philosophy al
the Polytechnic School; Abib4 Qmthier, the well-
known instructor of the youpg ; and Md^h-Baueauri,
the actress* whose interment was opposed by th«
pi^ests in 181S.

Proceeding towards the East, we arrive at two
^Barbie tombs of similar construction, denoting the
burial-place of Marshal Keliermofm, Duke o/Falmy,
and of his wife. Not far from ^em and near the
wall of the eemet^y, is an interesting monument to
the memory of the unfortunate v^eday^e, who feU
a sacrifice to his attachment to Napoleon,

The next monum^t caloulated to arrest attention
is that of Quilimme de h Orange, a subaltern o(&^

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PBKB LA CHAISE. 87S

eer of hussars, who was killed in Poland. Beyond
it, at the angle formed by two paths, is the spot
where Marshal Ney was buried, but the handsome
monument which was erected to his memory has
been removed. Still further, is a cippus of black
marble, on which is inscribed the name of the Count
de Fbntanes, who was also a poet, an orator, an
academician, a senator, a peer, and ^rand master
of the University ; and to the left of this monument,
lies Beaumarcnais, the witty author of Mimoires
contre Goesman, Figaro, ^.

Still farther to the left, is a superb monument of
Italian marble to the memory of the Countess of
Demidoff; and returning towards that of de Fon-
tanes, is seen the family vault of Marshal Davoust^
Prince of Eckmuhl,

On an eminence called the CoarS Massena, is the
monument of that celebrated genial, consisting of a
loft^r pyramid, bearing his name, his medallion by
Bosio, the time of his death, and the titles of his
fo\xr principal victories. Conti^ous to it, is a sup«i>
sarcophagus of white marble, m memory oi Marshal
Lef^hore, duke of Dantzick : each side of the prin-
cipal front is adorned with figures of Fame crowning
the profile of the Marshal, and beneath is an iur
scription containing his title and the names of the
places at which he distiinguished himself.

Beyond this tomb, on Uie right, is that of the Due
de Decris, formerly Minister of the Marine : it bears
considerable resemblance to the monument of Le-
f<6bvre, but is composed of stone, and is adorned on
each side with a ship.

Not fax from Massena's tomb is the grave of
Talma.

The next object which attracts the eye is one of
pecuHar interest, the mausoleum of the ^66^ Sicard,

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87% CBHSTBBIJtS*

er«et6d in 1833. It id fonned of black mf^^le. On
iim upper part, in the style of Egyptian hierogljrphic^»
are six hands in ditferent positions, indicating the
ax letters of the name Sioard» conformahly to the
signs manual sdo^ed hy the deaf and dumo of tlie
Institution at Paris which was und^ t|ie Abba's dir
reetion.

On the most elevated part of the Ceqaeteiy called
the Behedere, is a tomb in the form of a cottage»
inclosing the remains of Me:ftrezat, a pastor of Uie
church of Greneva. ^NefMr it repose the ashes of Jfa-
dame O&tHn, togeth^ with many others, whose
flames will live when their monuments, lUce their
mortal remains, are mouldered away.

To the left of Madame Cottin, is a sumptuous ro-
tunda, erected by M, Boode as a place of sepulture
for his fiimily ; and in a comer of the cemetwy, to-
wards the N.£p is a stone pyranud in honour of
Volney.

A short distance W. of Madame CottiUf is the
tomb of General Foy, and the elegant mpnumeiit of
CamiUe Jordan, an doquent orator and a staunch
defender of the Charter ; and near the latter is a
spaall dpnus of white marble, denoting the buiial-r
place of tne Marquise de Beauhamaie.

In the same direction is the tomb of ParrnenH^t
whose improvements m agriculture baye entitled him
to Hit respect of evpr^ Frenchman.

North of this tomb is a Gothic chapel, equstructed
l^ Brongniart, for the fBimily of Cfmnt Qr^^Uhe;
and in tiie immediate vicinity, close to each othw, are
the monuments of MoliWe and La Fontaine^

Still fiarther to the North are the fpllqwing nionu-
ments : that of Count Aboville, a general of artil-
lery, whose exploits are recorded on tbe cannon which
support his tomb ; that of the Spanish minister Ur-

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PSftB La okAtsii. S75

quijo, consisting of a dome supported by eight co-
lumns of white marble ; and that of Marshal Peri-
gnon, richly decorated with military trophies*

Crossing the path, and proceeding towards the
West, the visiter may see the grave of Philip Astley^
Esq,, formerly proprietor of the Amphitheatre at
London. Near him are deposited Ihe remains of
Mormgny, the composer ; and in a small grove ad-
joining, is a cross, designating the spot where Pierre,
the ingenious inventor of me Mechanical Theatre,
was interred in 1814.

To the South of Astley's grave is a tomb in the
Egyptian style, covering the remains ofJunot, Duke
ofAbrantes; and near it is a marble column sur-
mounted with an urn, and erected in memory of the
Countess de la Marck, who was a natural daughter
of Frederic WiUiam II. of Prussia.

St. Foixj in his " Essais Historiques sur Paris,"
says, that Charles IX. had formed the design of con -
ve^ngthe Bois-de-Boulogne into a burying-place for
great men. The idea was that of a great man ; but
uiat unfortunate monarch, lU^e many others, followed
bad counsels, and turned his abilities to a wrong pur-
pose. The cemeteiy of Pere la Chaise, on a small
scale, and of recent date, shows what that idea would
have produced had it been put in execution.

Though.it is little more than twenty years that this
has been a cemetery, it is now the favourite and most
fashionable one in Paris ; for in Paris every thing has
its fashion, and the Parisians have displayed great
taste in the arrangement and construction of the
tombs, and great aii'ection and feeling in the epitaphs
that are engraven upon them.

Mr. Serreshas recently published Views ofP^re la
Chaise, which are well entitled to a place in the port-
folio of every admirer of this interesting spot. They
may be obtained of the. publisher of this work^

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276 CIHETIHRB MONTMARTRE.

Cimetihre Montmartre, or Field of Repose.

This is situated to the north of Paris, and was the
first opened after the new regulations in 1 773. It
contains a number of tombs, with inscriptions that
depict, in elegant language, the grief of the relatives
left behind, but. there are few erected to any persons
of great note. Amongst the most remarkable are
those of St. Lambert, the poet ; Vestris, the dancer ;
Very, the celebrated restaurateur ; Pigalle, the sculp-
tor ; and Legouve, the author of a poem entitled
** Le M6rite des Femmes." Here likewise is an affec-
tionate inscription, placed by Mademoiselle Volnais,
(now Mdme. Philippe), to the memory of Madame
Crozet, and an epitaph on Vicomte de la Tour Dupin,
written by Delille.

There are three other cemeteries, that of Vauffi-
rard, near the village of tHe same name ; St, Cathe'
line, in the Fauboui^ St. Marceau ; Bxid Mont Par-'
nasse, near the barrier of the same name ; but in
extent, situation, and other circumstances, they are
less interesting than that of P^re la Chaise. General
Pichegru was interred in the cemetery of St. Cathe-
rine, where there is a plain tomb erected to him by
the affectionate piety of his daughter.

In Vaugirard, near to Mademoiselle Clairon, is in-
terred Jean Franpoise de la Harpe, her friend. Here
also are the monuments of Leroy and Lavalette.

Mont Pamasse was opened in 1824, and contains
about 30 acres.

Entreprises des Inhumations et Pompes Funibres,

[No. I, Rue du Pat-de-la-Mule,'] H 4.

A COMPANY under this name has the superintendence

of all funerals in Paris, £veiy article connected with

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SQUARES OR PLACES. 877

funerals is kept here at a fixed price, which is regu-
lated according to a list, formed into three divisions,
or classes, so that the expenses may be proportionate
to the circumstances of the deceased. Tlds company
is obliged to bury the poor gratuitously.

La Morgue.
[Quai du Marchi Neuf.'\ F 5.

This establishment was instituted in 1804, and is
destined to receive the dead bodies of such individuals
as have fallen victims to accidents and murders, or
been induced by despair to put an end to their own
lives : they are publicly exposed, that they may be
recognised by their relatives or friends. '

SQUARES OR PLACES.

[Tlifi. tenn Squares cannot properly be applied to all those ranges of
buildings which the French call Places, as they use the same de-
nomination for every open space surrounded by bouses. Of these
Places there are about seventy, the far greater number of which
are tristngles, circles, crescents, or octagons. We shall mention
those which, by their extent or regularity, or beauty, deserve n
place iu the '* Nkw Pigtubk ot Pabis.'*]

Place de Louis XV,
[Formerly Place de la Concorde.} D 3.

This magnificent place separates the Tuileries from
the Champs Elys6es. It is of an octagonal form, sur-
rounded by a foss^, guarded by a balustrade of stone,
which is terminated Dy little pavilions in the form of
pedestals, destined to receive groups of figures.

The centre of the Place de Louis XV. exhibits one
of the noblest views in Paris. In front is the palace
of the Tuileries, seen through the grand avenue.
SB

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S78 BQt7AttES Oft PLACES.

Behind is the triumphal arfeh and BarrtSre deNeuilly,
seen likewise thtdugh the perspective of a. long are-
nue. On one side, the Rue Roy^^ tertiiinates \fiih
the new Chtirch of the Madfeleine ; and on the other
side, the eye, glaticing over the hew bridge de Lotds
Seize, rests on the noble Colonnade that forms the
fa9ade of the Palace of the Representatives, or
Chamber of Deputies.

An equestrian statiie of Louis XV. occulted thfe
centre of the square.

On the 30th of May, U^O, the mtoiagfe of tiduis
XVI., then Dauphin, wa^ celebrated here, but the
improvidence of the police converted the day of te-
joicing into otte of sadness and desolation. Many
hundreds were crushed to death ; sad presage of the
horrible scenes which were afterwards witnessed in
this place !

On the 12th Jiily, 1789, ah old fiiaH wlis wounded
here, and on the morrow the revolutionary volcano
burst forth.

In September, 1792, the statue of Louis XV. was
overthrown, and the figure of Liberty erected In its;
stead. At the foot of tm& sanguinary altar the bloodU
of Louis XVI. was shed ; and, in the space of; two '^
years, many thousands of his Subjects followed him
to the same scaffold.

The name of Concords was afterwards givai to
this square, to endeavour to efSsice the memory of
the cnmes by which it had been polluted. Its ori^
ginal title is now restored.

The space in the centre is at present imoccupied
by any statue or public monument, but a statue b£
Louis XV. by Cartellier, is about to be erected here.

Place Royaie.

{Neat the Boulevard St. ^ittoftic] H 4.

This Square was begun in 1604, by order of Henry

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>d by Google

9QUARIS OH PL4CSS, 979

IV., and completed in 1615. It is a perfect square
of 432 feet, and surrounded by 39 uniform pavilions
of three stories, with arches on the groimd floor,
farming p. covered gallery, which runs round the
square. In the centre was placed the statue of
I^ouisXIII. ; but, in 1792, it was hurled from its

?edestal, and a fountain substituted in its place,
his, however, has in its turn given way to a marble
equestrian statue of this monarch, executed by
©upaty.

The height of the surrounding buildings, their se-
vere style of architecture, their arcades, ^e sombre
tint wjuch they have assumed, the apparent want of
outlet, and the few persons who are seen to traverse
it, g^ve to this square much of ^e melancl^oly aspect
of a cloister.

The Palace des Tournelles once stood here. At a
inasquerade given in this place, Charles VI., in 1393,
appeared as a savage. The Duke of Orleans hold-
ing a flambeau too close to him, his dress causht
flro ; and, had it not been for the presence of mind
and prompt assistance of the Duchess of Berry, the
monarch would have perished. Four of ihe l^rds
who attended him vfeve burnt to death.

In the park attached to this palace Henry II. held
a tournament in honour of the marriage of Elizabeth,
his daughter, with Philip II. of Spain. Contending
with the Comte de Montgopiejy, the lance of the
eQunt broke against the helmet of the king, wounded
him in the eye, and he died eleven days after, in 1559.

Catherine de Medicis, his wife, quitted the palace,
i|j%d caused it to be 4^stroyed.

Place des Victoires.

[Near the Palais Royal.] F 3.

The Marshal la Feuillade, loaded with benefits by

iiouis XIV., wished to leave to posterity some public

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280 SQUARES OR PLAGES.

testimony of his gratitiide, For this purpose he
built this " Place" of ar semi-circular form ; and in
the centre he placed a colossal statue of Louis XIV.,
with Victory standing on- a globe behind him, and
placing a crown on nis head. Hence the name of
the place. This statue was destroyed iii 1 792, and a
colossal figure of Greneral Dessaix erected in its
stead, which in its turn disappeared, and was re-
placed, August 25th, 1822, by a new statue of Louis
XIV., by Bosio, an Italian sculptor. The monarch
is represented on horseback in me Roman costume,
and ttie pedestal is adorned with two bas-reliefe,
representing his passage of the Rhine in 1672, and
his distribution of military decorations.

The houses are noble and uniform, and adorned
with Ionic pilasters. The Place des Victoires is,
however, too narrow; and the avenues to it are
sometimes dangerous, from the nimiber of carnages.

Place Venddme,

[ Between Rue St, Honore and Rue des-PetUs-Champe,}
£3.

The Marqtds de Louvois, in the reign of Louis XIV.,
wishing to form a communication between La Rue
St: Honord and La Rue des-Petits-Champs, con-
ceived the project of building a square in this place.
It derived its name from Caesar de Venddme, who
once possessed a large house on this spot.

The present places which is an octagon, is 444 feet
long, and 420 broad. The buildings which inclose
it on three sides are uniform, and were erected from
designs by J. H. Mansard. They are decorated with
Corinthian pillars ; and on the ground-floor is one
continued covered gallery, pierced with arcades.

In the middle was an equestrian statue of Louis
XIV.,* which gave way to a colunm formied on the
model of that of Trajan at Rome. . It is 133 Paris

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FONTAINE DE GKKKELLE^ .

Digitized by CjOOgle

Digitized by Google

S^UABM OB HiAOXI. f 81

feet (about 141 English) in height, and 12 Paris feet
(about 1 2 feet 9 indies Englisn) in diameter ; and is
entirely cov^^ with brass, ftunished by the artillery
^«i from the Austrians by Buonaparte.

The pedestal is filled with bas-reliefs, composed of
trophies of arms of every kind, an4 at each apgle is
an eagle grasping a crown of laurel. At the foot of
tiie column conunences anpther set of bas-reliefs,
wliich trace in chronological order the principal
events of the campaign of 1805, from the breaking
up of the camp of Boulogne, to the conclusion of
peace after the battle of Austerlitz. These bas-reUefs,
which ascend in a spiral direction, are contained in
276 plates, about three feet wide and four in height,
which are joined together in an irregular manner,
according to the disposition of the figures. A spiral
line separates each row, and bears the name of the
action which each division represents.

On the summit of the column, as on that of Trajan,
is a gallery, the ascent to which is by a spira] stairr
case pi 1 76 steps in the centre of the pillar. It con^-
inands a fine view of Paris.

The construction of this column was commenced
JU 1806, and finished in 1810, at ap expense of a
ii;i)lipn francs. Lepd^e ^nd Gondouin were the ar-
phjtects, and Denpn superi^ended the sculpture.
The bas-reliefs were drawn by Bergeret, cast by
Bel^-unoy, apd finished by Rayn^ond. The column
was originally surmounted by a pedestrian statue of
Napolepn, which was taken down in 18i4.

Admission to the interior may be obtained on per-
sonal application to the Direction des Travaux des
Monumens Publics, No. 7, Rue Poultier, He St.
Louis, or by letter addressed to Monsieur le Directeur.
The offioe is open every day fropn 1 1 to 4. In sum-
mm' t^ column may be c^cendedfrom 9 in the mom'
ing till § in the evening; in winter, Jrcm 12 till 4,

2B 3

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S89 SQUARES OR PXAOSS.

Place de Greve.

[Near the Pont Notre Dame,] G 4.

This square, on one side of which stands the Hotel
de Ville, is the appointed scene of public executions.
The ravages of the murderous guillotine will long
render it a place of interest.

Persons desiring to see the guillotine tmthout wit'
nessing an execution, may So so by writing to M,
Henri, No. 31 , Rue des Mirais, stating the day' and
hour which mil suit them. M. Henri will then sive
orders for the guillotine to be erected in one of the
courts of No. 13, Rue du Pont aux Choux. The
fee required is \2 francs, but the party may consist
of any number of persons.

Place Dauphine.
[In the Isle du Palais, near the Pont Neuf.] F 4.

This " Place*' was built by Henry IV. in honour of
the birth of Louis XIII. It is of a triangular form.
The houses that surround it are most of them occu-
pied by jewellers and goldsmiths ; they are of an
uniform architecture ; and their great height gives to
the place a gloomv and melancholy air. In 1792
this place was called Thionville, in honour of the
resistance which the inhabitants of that town had
made to the enemy, and in 1801 it received the name
oi Dessaix. The friends of Greneral Dessaix have
CTCcted a monument to him in thi^ centre. It is as
simple and modest as the hero whom it commemo-
rates.

Place du Chdtelet.

[At the foot of the Pont an Change.] F 4.

Its form is quadrilateral ; and in the centre is the

Fontaine du Palmier. A column of the Egyptian

style rises from the middle of a large basin. The

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SQUARES OR PLACES. 283

lower part has the form of a palm-tree, and the
chapiter is composed of the branches. It is sur-
mounted with a gilded statue of Victory, supposed
to be the chef-d'oeuvre of Boizot. At the foot are
four statues, representing Vigilance, Law, Fortitude,
and Prudence. They are admirably proportioned,
but the uniformity of their apipearance renders it
difficult to distinguish the attribute which each is
intended to personify.

No. 1, in the Place du Ch^telet is occupied by the
Chamber of Notaries, and here houses and other
property are sold by auction. Goods seized by ma-
gistrates' warrants are sold by auction m the open
place on Wednesdays and Saturdays.

Parvis or Place Notre Dame. F 5.

Is so called from its situation in front of the Cathe-
dral, the space before a large church being denomi-
nated Parvis in the French languag^. Ail the dis-
tances on the great roads from Paris are reckoned
from the principal door of Notre Dame. On the west
side are two fountains, ornamented with antique
vases, and on the south side is the Hotel Dieu.

Place Beauveau,
[Rue St, HonorL] D 3.
This ** Place," in the form of a horse-shoe, com-
mands a charming view of the avenue of Marigny,
in the Champs £lys6es.

Place de la Bastille,
[Faubourg St. Antoine.'] H 5.

This is not vet finished, but its situation near the
new canal or St Martin will render it as pleasant
as any in Paris. On this spot stood the Bastille,
which was destroyed in 1789.

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POUNTAINa

WwHiK the confines of Paris are sixiy-five Foun-
toins, for ttie use of the public, and one hundred and
tiyenty-four inclosed Fountains. The foUowin^g well
deserves inspection. Notwithstanding this immense
number of Fountains, water for domestic purposes
is dear in Paris, for a single pail usually cpsti^ one
sou.

Fontaine de la Place St Michel.

[ Riie de la ffarpe,] F 5.

B^l'l'i* erected this fountain in I6S4. It eonsists
of one vast niche, orn^inented by two I)oric columns,
supporting an entablature. The construction of the
whole is on much too large a scale for the insignifi-
cant stream whieh issues firom it without any pictu-.
resque effect

Fontaine (fe St. Su^dce,
[ In front of the Chwrck of the ^ame namfi'^ E §.
Tqis pleasing structure is lost in the immen^ty of
the are» in which it is situated. It is a UtUe massir?
square, with an entablature pn each side, ornamented
by bas-reliefs in marble, representing Peace, Agri-
culture, Commerce, and the Arts. On two of the
sides are sculptures in white marble, in the form dt
^ upper ]^art of a vase, whence the wator faU«
into semi-circular cisterns of m^le, and thencg
into a circular basin.

Fontaine de Leda oude la Rue 4fi Fqugirard,
iCarner of the Rue fh* Regard.] E &.
This, fountain is composed oi two pilasters, sur-
mounted by a pediment. A bas-relief represents
Leda on the banks of the Eurotas, and Jupiter under
the form of a swan, Jh^ ^st, who had only ^

Digitized by Google

little stream of water at his disposal, has very taste*
fully made it issue from the beak of the elegant
bird. One side of the composition is occupied by
Cupid, and tiie other by reeds.

Fontaine du Diable ou de VEchelle. E 3.
This little monument, in the form of an ancien
obelisk, discovers much good taste in the disposition,
and elegance in the execution. It is situated at the
comer of the Rue de TEchelle and the Rue de St.
Louis. The origin of its first name is unknown,
but its second is derived from an instrument of
punishment called ichelle which once stood on this
spot.

Fontaine de GreneUe,

[Rue de Grenelle St. Germain,] E 6.
This fountain was built by Bouchardon in 1739.
It is of a semi-circular form, ninety feet in length
and thirty-six in height, adorned with pilasters and
niches, in which are the statues of the four Seasons,
with bas-reliefs applicable to each undemeatii. The
projection in the centre is composed of four Ionic
columns, crowned with a pediment, beneath which
is a Latin inscription. A figure, representing the
city of Paris, sits on a pedestal in the centre; on
each side of which, and a little lower, are a river-
god and a nymph, personifying the Seine and the
Mame. The water issues from two heads, placed
at equal distances from the middle.

The architecture and decorations of this fountain
have been much admired, especially when contrasted
with the numerous productions of oad taste by which
the age of Louis XV. was disgraced. It has, how-
ever, been justly observed, that this building has
much more the appearance of a house than a foun-
tain ; and that there should be a more conspicuous
display of lets or torrents of water, to apprize the
spectator tiiat it is an edifice of public utility.

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JPhnkiine tUa Janoeem^
[In the Market of the Inngcents.] F 4.

This exquisite specimen of arehitectui^ doesh l^onou|r
to the French schooL At the base of each of the
four sides is a square projecting stone, on which is
p}aaed a v^st leaden basin of s|.n antique form, supr
ported by lions' feet, Above, ^i the comers, are
four lions of lead, frop whiqh jets of water ara
directed into tb^ basins ; ^nd yet higher, in the jmd-
d}^ of ftii arcl), is a.nother basin^ elevated on a pedes^
i^, from the centre of which springs ajetfdeau, and
firpm ilfie side arp several litUe ^^ams. The whde
is supplied with water from the Canal de TOurcq.

Eacn side pr^^eots a portico, composed of four
fluted con^ppsite pillars* surmoupted by a pediment.
Between me pilasters are fl^es of N?iiad^; and
above and below are bas-rel;efs, representing the
different divinities of the water. The whole is
OTOwned by a spherical roof, cevared with plates of
copper.

The Naiads, the Water-gods, and the Tritons,
in bas-relief, are ren^arkable for the gracefulness
ci their attitudes, the beauty of their forms, their
finished execution, a-nd the true antique air of their
drapery. Little tablets of black marble bpar this
inscription i ^ontium nymphis. This fountain was
erected from designs by P. Lescot, and ornamented
by Goujon and Pajou.

Fontaine du CMteht.^^e^ PUm dn ChAielei.

Fontaine de VEcole de MSdecine, F ^.

TSE form of this fountain is remarkable. It consists
or a kind of grotto, formed by four Doric pillars,
from the rpQi of which the water descends lUte
rain, ^nd is received in a semi-drcular basin at the
base. It was constructed fron^ designs by Qondoi|ia«
and is furnished with wat^ from ^cueil, ,

.oogle

Fontaine de la Place de VHo^ee MiUtaire du
GroS'Catllou. C 4.

"tHB decorations of this fountaia pleasingly accot^
with its situation. Eight pilasters, with a Dori^
entablature, form a square. The principal front is
adorned with two figures, tiy^ia offers me refresh-
ing draught to a soldier, fatigued by the combat.
The figure of the soldier is much admired. Between
the pilasters are yases entwined by the iEscukpian
Serpent.

Ibniaine de la Crouib de Trahoir.
[Rue 8L Hertott] F 4.

A BASE of a simple form supports two stones with
incrusted pilasters, and a Doric pediment, sur-
mounted by a balustrade, 'towards Rue St. Ho-
i4or6 is the figure of a Naiad, in bafe-relief. This
ftmntaiti was coiistructed by Soufflot, in I773i

Fontaine St. Eustache, ou de Tantale.

[At the coiner of Rde Mbntmartre and Rue Montor-

gueil.] F 4.

lit a tiiehe of a Inistie foftft, suifouiided by Icidei
and incrustations, is placed a vase, whence desc^tidA
a sheet of water. It is first received in a shell, and
thence escapes ihto a semicirtjular bistern. vAbove
the shell is placed the head of a T&iitalus, crowned
with flowers* with his mouth open» and his eye^
eagerly fixed on the descending water, which he lA
utterly unable to reach.

Fontaine de F^an^ois I. G 3.

Titis fountaih is situated in the new quaHa* t#
Paris, between the Champs ElysSes aiid Chaillot
It is adorned with a colossid bust of Francis I., fetid
three figures representing the Arts, Sciences, aiia
War.

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288 FOUNTAINS.

Fontaine de la Nouvelle Athines,

This elegant fountain is situated, as its name im-
ports, in the new quarter of Paris, which has been
rattier pompously named the New Athens. It is
constructed of marble, from designs by Houdebourg
and Yisconti, and affords an abundant supply of
water.

Fontaine de Bacchus.
[Rue Cemier,} G 6.

A Satyr, surrounded by all the attributes of Bac-
chus, offers the water with an air of derision.

Fontaine de la Naiade,
[Rue des rieilles 4ndrieUes*] G 4.

The pediment, surmounted by an attic, is adorned
with a Naiad, the production of Migiiot. The figure
is deservedly admired.

Fontaine d' Alexandre, or St. Victor.
[Ride St. Fictor,] G 5. ,.

This little structure, of an ancient form, pleases from
its extreme simplicity.

Fontaine de la Place de TEcole.
[North end of the Pont Neuf.] F 4.

A PEDESTAL, of a plcasing form, supports a beauti-
ful vase.

Fontaine de Popincourt,
[Rue de Popincourt.} H 4.
This quarter of the city is industrious, but very
poor. The ornaments of the fountain are appropri-
ately chosen. Charity is leading one little child,
hiding another in the folds of her robe, and offering
the nutritious draught to two others.

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FOtJMTAINS. 289

Fontaine de V Esplanade des Invalides. D 4.

The plan of this immense fountain is simple, and
the effect is striking. It is composed of three cir-
cular and concentnc basins. Four lions pour a
stream of water into the uppermost, and thence it
pleasingly flows fifom basin to basin.

Fontaine Dessaix.
[Place DauphineJ] F 4.
France is placing a crown of laurel on the head of
Dessaix, whilst the rivers Po and Nile, the witnesses
of his victories, are represented with their attributes.
On a circular basso-relievo, two figures of Fame in-
scribe Thebes, the Pyramids, KeW, and Marengo.
A rich trophy is placed beliind the pedestal, and on
the base are several inscriptions. On the front of
the pedestal the word DessaiX' appears in golden
ktters, surrounded by an oak garland. The figures
are finely proportioned, and the whole monument, of
the simplest form, is well executed.

Fontaine Egyptienne.
IRuede Sevres,] E 5.

A COLOSSAL figure, in Egyptian drapery, pours
water from two iutis.

Fontaine de r Elephant,
[Boulevard St, Antoine.] H 5.

In the canal, near the spot on which the Bastille
-once stood, is a pedestal, on which it was intended
to place an immense elephant of bronze, 72 feet
high, with a tower on its back, out of whose trunk
the water was to flow. This undertaking was com-
menced by Buonaparte, but is never hkely to be
complete.
2 C

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S0O fiRIBQBS*

The model is exhibited near the spot, under an
immense shed. The stupendous dimensions of the
animal may be imagined, when it is mentioned that
the staircase to the tower is contained in one of the
legs.

For tickets of admission apjpiky personaUif ett the^
Direction des Travaux des Monmnens Publics, No.
7, Rue Poultier, He St Louis; or by letter ad-
dressed to Monsieur le Directein*.

CMteau dEau, or Fontaine de St. Martin^
[Boulevard St. ilfaWm.] G S.

Ths new fountain on the Boulevard St* .Martin is
the ndblest ornament of the kind in Paris, and de-
rives a considerable degree of beauty firom its mag-
nitude, its form, its materials, and its decorations.
The form is circular, the ornaments are lions, the
materials are granite and bronze, and the (quantity
of water is abundant. The trees which Ime the
Boulevufd are a very pleaung accompaniment

Etablissement des Eaux clarifi^es et depur^es de la

Seine*

iQuai des Celesti/M, No* 94.] G 5.

This useful establishment was formed for the pur-
pose of filtering the Seine water, and selling it at a
reasonable rate to. the public. Strangers are ad-
mitted to see the process, which was mspected by
the Allied Sovereigns, in 1814.

BRIDGES,

The bridges at Paris, owing to the elevation of the
quays above the river, have very littie ascent, and
are therefore very convenient ; they are* however,

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with the exception of the Pont-Neiif, tut inferior to-
the bridges of Rome or Florenee, and in magnitude
and grandem- they sink into insignificance, when
compared with the stupendous masses of Waterloo,
Blackfriars, and Westminster.

Pont-Nei^. F 4.
This bridge extends across the two arms of the
Seine, to^/wds the point of the He du Palais, and
f(»*m8 a communication between that Island and the
hie Dauphkie on one side, and the rue de la Mon*
naie on me other.

This bridge was begun during the rd^ of Henrjr
III., and completed by Henry iV. It is 996 feet in
length, and 90. in breadth.

On the space in the centre, formerly occupied by a
statue of Henry IV., which was destroyed in 1792,
Buonfl^arte intended to have erected an immense
obelisk. This spot is now occupied by a new eques-
trian statue of Henry IV., first opened for public in-
spection on St. Louis's day, August 25th, 1818, in
presence of the king and the royal family. The front
pf the monumi^t i^ adorned with an inscription, and
the sides by two basso-reUevos in l^ronze, one repre-
senting Henry IV. supplying Paris with provisipnn
whilst he was besieging it, and the other depicting
his entry into this city, on the 22rid March, 1594.
The statue^ which is also of bronze, was modelled
by Lemot, and cast by Piggiani.

This bridge is incessantly crowded with passen-
gers, and exhibits a novel and interesting scene*
It is the favourite resort of itinerant finiterers and
pedlars of every description, who line each side of
it, and force the attention of the passenger by the
most exaggerated and deafening history of the ex-
cellence of their wares. The dealer in books is
posted next to the. reader of hot sausages or fiied

892 BRIDdSS.

plaice. Beside him is the polisher of shoes, while
his neighbour offers the most delicate cakes and pre-
serves. Beyond him is the print-merchant, with
engravings of every price, and suited to every taste.
He is elbowed by a baHad-singer or a hawker of
news. No sooner has the traveUer escaped from his
harsh and discordant note, than he is annoyed by
the importunity of some canine tonsor, who, for a
small gratuity, will clip his poodle, or his barbette,
to the very height of the fashion. The professors of
this last art are numerous in Paris, and some of
them enjoy as much reputation, and reap as much
emolimient, as the sci^itific and justly-celebrated
professor of canine and animal medicine in the
western part of the English metropolis.

Pont Royal. E 4.

Is situated opposite the Tuileries, and was erected
by Louis XI v., to replace that of wood, which the
InreaJdng up of the ice in 1684 had carried away.
It is composed of five stone arches, and measures
432 feet m length, and 46 in breadth. The archi-
tecture is masculine and correct. The view from
this bridge is truly imposing. The palace and gar-
den of the Tuileries are seen to great advantage.

Pont de Grammont. G 5.

This forms a communication between the quay of
the Celestins and the island of Louvier. It was re-
constructed in 1824, and is the only wooden bridge
in Paris. It consists of five arches, and is 140 feet
in length.

Pont aux Doubles. F 5.
This bridge, consisting of on^ two arches, leads
from Rue de la Bdcherie to Farvis Notre Dame.
The fare for passing it was once a double (a coin no

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^lUMii. tot

ion^ in circulation), whence It derivet its name.
This bridge is confined to foot passengers, and \k
closed ereiy night at eleven o'clock.

Pont St Charlei. F 5.
*tmn bridge is fbrmed by two arches, and is solely
Appropriated to the use of the Hotel Dieu, the build-
ings of Which occupy both banks of the Seine.

Pont Louis XVL
[Formerly Pont de la Concorde.] D 3 4.

Is opposite the Chamber of Deputies, and eon^niu
nicates from the square of Louis XT. to the Quai
d*Orsai.

This bridge was completed in 1791, by Perron-
net. All appearance of strength and stability is sa-
crificed to a false elegance and aflPected %htness of
structure, little suited to this kind or building*
The bridge consists of five stone arches, the central
one being 96 feet in the span, the two next 87, and
those at the extremities 78 feet. The length of the
bridge is 600 feet, and the breadth 50.

It is intended to a)(k)m it with fbur trophies, and
the following colossal statues : — ^B«yard» by Mou*
toni ; Dugay Trouin, by Dupasquier ; Turenne, by
Oois, jun. ; TourviUe, by Marin ; Suffer, by Stouf;
Duguesdin, by Bridan, jun.; Conde, by David;
Cardinal Richelieu, by Ramey ; Sully, by £sra>
eieux ; Colbert, by Milhomme ; Duquesne, by Ho«
gmar ; and Sufiren, by Le Sueui"*

Pont au Change, F 4»

Is close to the Palace of Justice, between La Hace
du Chatelet and Rue de.la Barillerie, and was for-
merly designated Le Grand Pont, et le Pont dea
Oiseauit (9ie Great Bridge, and the Bridge <^

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S94 BRXDGBt.

Its antiquity is as great as Le Petit Pont, and it
assumed its. present name when Louis the Young
first established the Exchange. It has been often
swept away by inundations and by ice.

It was destroyed by fire in 1621 and 1639, re-con-
structed in stone in 1647, and repaired in 1788, at
which period it was divested of the nouses which had
hitherto encumbered it -Its architecture is solid, and
it is unusually wide, being no less than 100 feet
in breadth.

Pont 8t Michel. F 5.

This also stands near the Palace of Justice, and
communicates from Rue de la Banllerie to la Place
du Pont St. Michel. It derives its name fi-om a
chapel now pulled down, in which Philip Augustus
was baptized. It was built of stone under Charles
VI., and rebuilt in 1618 ; when it was made 60 feet
longer, and 20 wider. Its architecture is bold and
sohd. It was repaired by Napoleon, and now con-
sists of four arches, its length is 190, and its
breadth 83 feet.

Pont Notre Dame. F 4.
Is situated at the extremity of the Quai de la Megis-
serie, called, in the fourteenth century, Pont de la
Planche Milraif, and leads from Rue Planche Mibray
to the city. It was built on the plan of a cordelier,
named Joconde, under the reign of Charles XII., in
1499. It is the most ancient bridge in Paris, and
the first of stone built there. Sixty-one brick houses,
which it formerly bore, were taken down in 1786.

In the middle is a pump, which supplies most of
the fountains of Paris.

Petit Pont. F 5.
This bridge forms a communication between Rue
St Jacques and the city. The time of its foundatioQ

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BRID6B8. 295

18 uncertain. It existed in the time of the Ganls ;
and when Lutetia was rebuilt by the Romans, a
fortress was erected at its extremi^. It was eight
times carried away by floods; and in 1718 it was
destroyed by fire in four hours, together with all the
houses upon it. The conflagrS'tion originated from
two boats laden with hay, wfich had anchored under
one of its arches. In 1719 it was rebuilt with stone
unincumbered by houses. It consists of three arches.

Pont Marie, G 5.

This structure was named after the builder, who
erected it in the reign of Heniy IV. It was partly
destroyed in 1658, but afterwards repaired, and quite
divested of houses in 1719. The Pont Marie forms
a communication between the Quai des Ormes and
the He St Louis. It is 78| feet broad and 1 13 long.

Pont de la Toumelle. G 5.

Stands on the quay bearing that name, and was so
caUed from the castle which adjoined the gate of St.
Bernard. The character of its architecture is veiy
grand.

It communicates from the port of St. Bernard to
the island of St. Louis. It is the third bridge that
has been erected on this spot. A wooden bridge,
which existed in 1369, gradually decayed. A second
wooden bridge was carried away by the ice. The
dty of Paris caused this of stone to be built in 1656.
It consists of six arches, and is 380 feet in length.

Pont du Jardin des Plantes, or Pont du Roi, or

Pont (tAusterlitz. H 6.
Forms a communication between the Boulevard of
Bourbon and the Garden of Plants. It was com-
menced in 1802, and completed in 1807, from de-
signs by Beaupr^. The piles are of stone, and the

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246 BRIDOBi.

arches of cast iron. It has an air of gi^t solidity
and strength, and is about 401 feet long and 37
bro^ad. There is an extensive view to the east over
the country bordering on the Seine ; and to the west
over the port of St. Bernard, and the beautiful quays
of the island of St. Louis.

The name of this bridge was altered on the arrival
of the Allied troops in Paris. The Austrians blew
tip part of it before the authorities in Paris consented
to the alteration. Habit, however, prevails against
the will of government, and the bridge is generally
called Pont d'Austerlitz. In order to defray the
expense of erecting the bridge, a toll is levied on all
who pass it. Foot passengers pay one sou, a ca-
briolet three sous, and a coach five sous.

Pont de la CitS, ou Pont Rouge* G 5.

It unites the Parvis Notre Dame to the isle of St.
Louis. No less than three bridges have been erected
Ht this spot, and have successively prished, "the
present was completed in 1824, and is used only by
Ibot passengers, who each pay one sou. It is 216
feet in length, and 34 in breadth.

Pont des Arts. F 4.

This bridge, eictending from the Louvre to the Pa-
lais des Beaux Arts, was bmlt by Demoutier in 1804.
It has nine cast-iron arches, each of which is sup-
ported by three girders, and it is perfectly horizontal.
The total length is 505 feet. It is open only to foot
passengers, who pay one sou each. It wa^ formerly
ornamented with flowers, and was the fashionable

Sromenade of the Parisians, but it is now almost
eserted.

It afPords a pleasing view of the Seine from thq
Pont-Neuf to the Pont-Royal.

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QUAY8» 297

Pont de VEcole MtUtaire, or Pont cTJena. B 4.

This bridge, oppasite the Champ de Mars, was be-
gun in 1806, from designs by Lamand^, and finished
m 1813. It consists of five stone arches, each 86
feet 2 inches in the span, and happily combines ele-
gance with strength. Its length is 467 feet, and its
breadth 46 feet.

On the second entrance of the Allies into Paris,
Blucher, ofPended at the name of Jena given to the
bridge, ordered it to be blown up. It was, however,
preserved by the prompt interference of the Allied
Sovereigns. It has for some time borne the name
of Pont des Invalides.

Pont des Invalides. D 3.

An iron chain bridge intended to bear this title was
commenced in August 1 824 ; but fell down shorti^
after its completion in 1827. It was situated between
the Pont d' Jena and* the Pont Louis XV., nearly
opposite the Hotel des Invalides.

Quais. Quays.

There are in Paris forty-nine quays, extending from
east to west about five English miles, on both sides
of the river, and which are at different parts dis-
tinguished by different names, though in reality they
form only two immensely long quays.

The river Seine, which is a running river, and not
a tide river, has no commerce but what is carried on
by boats. The quays are merely ^one embankments,
without cranes for raising goods, or warehouses for
receiving them, which are essential parts of what is
properly termed a quay.

There are stone staurs at different places, and the
quays, as they are termed, are merely streets with
houses on one side and the river on the other.

Digitized by Google

^9S BATHS.

They could not have been better planned than they
are; and no river like the Thames, where there is
much trade, can have its borders laid out in a manner
that will please the eye so well. The islands in the
river are bordered wim stone in the same way ; and
the whole extent, taking the borders of the river and
of the islands, amounts to about 12,000 toises, or
nearly fifteen English miles. The whole is well exe-
cuted in stone, with a parapet; and the sewers fell
into the river through arches under those quays.

These stone embankments were first be^n in 1312,
in the reign of Philip-le-Bel. The height of the
stone work is about fifteen feet, in some places built
on piles, and in others on a solid foundation of
earth.

Various sorts of goods are landed at different parts
of the river, and these are termed ports, thougH.
there is no apparent mark of any thing like a pcni;. •

During the Revolution, the quays were extended
at both ends very considerably.

When it is considered that the waters of the river
rise in winter about ten or twelve feet higher than in
summer, it will be seen that an absolute necessity
exists for having stone embankments, and the whole
is so well executed, that the borders of the river, or
quays, are the pleasantest and best walks in Paris*
with the exception of the Boulevards and public
gardens.

Bains Publics. Public Baths.

There is no species of accommodation connected
with personal cleanliness which may not be procured
in Paris at a very moderate price.

The frequent use of a warm bath is considered by
the French as essential to comfort and health. There
are baths in almost every part of liie town. They
consist of ranges of small rooms, each neatly fitted.

jitizedbyGoOgiA

up with a bath, towels, gowns, a fire, and conveni-
ences of every kind. In each bath are two pipes, one
for cold, and the other for hot water. Every person
can thus alter the temperature of his batn as he »
pleases. If he choose to breakfast, read the papers,
or make a morning's lounge in the bath roonj, every
thing which he can wish is furnished from the
house.

The charge for the mere use of the bath, the room»
and the necessary articles for bathing, is generally
30 sous.

On different parts of the Seine are large and elcr
gant house-boats, fitted up as baths in a very com-
plete manner. Each boat, in addition to the baths,"
contains a kitchen and dining-room. The edge of the
boat resembles a little garden, with all sorts of plants,
flowers, and trees, birds hanging in cages, and little
fbuntains playing. When lighted up at night, this
has a very pleasing efffect.

Among the inc^culable number of public baths,
the following are the most celebrated : —

Bains de Vigier, Baths of Vigier, above the
Pont Poyal, near the second arch, so named aftei*
their director, whose establishment is upon the most
liberal and expanded scale. A floating vessel, 21 0
feet in length, and 65 in breadth, contains no less
than 140 sepairate baths, which, in the summer, are
generally occupied from break of day until 1 1 o'clock
at night.

On each side of the vessel is a promenade, over
which orange-trees, myrtles, roses, and other odori-
ferous plants, diffuse the most fitigrant perfume. The
admission to the bath is 30 sous.

Vigier has likewise three other bathing establish-
ments; one below the Pont Royal, one near the Pont
Marie, and another near the Pont Neul

The Baths of Albert, No. 72, Rue St. Dominique,

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SOO BATHS.

Faubourg St. Gennain, are much frequented. They
are aromatic and medicinal.

Turkish Baths, Rue du Temple, No. 94. These
possess the peculiar advantage of a garden for pro-
menade, prior and subsequent to bathing.

Badns Chinois, The Chinese Baths, Boulevard
des Italiens, No. 25. The construction of these
baths is singular. On some artificial masses of rocks,
several pavihons are erected in the Chinese form.
These contain the baths, which are commodious and
agreeable. Connected with them is a coffee-house,
and the establishment of a restaurateur.

Bains de la Rotonde, Palais Royal, facing Rue
Vivienne.

Bains Montesquieu, in the street of that name,
No. 6. These are inferior in elegance and conveni-
ence to none that Paris affords.

Bains St Sauveur, Rue St. Denis, No. 277.
These baths are of more simple architecture than
the former, and of less price, but equally conve-
nient.

Bains de Tivoli, Rue St. Lazare, No. 88. In
this noble establishment are the common cold and
warm baths, with baths of every species of factitious
and mineral water, and temporary or permanent
lo(^ngs for invalids.

Bains, Rue du Bac, Faubourg St Grermain.

Bains Taranne, in the street of that name.

Bains de la Rue de Seine, No. 12, Faubourg St.
Germain.

Bains Galles, comer of Rue de Grammont and
Rue Neuve St. Augustin. These are mineral and
sulphureous baths.

Sulphureous Vapour Baths, No. 83, Rue Mont-
martre.

Vapour Baths, Rue J. J. Rousseau.

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TRIUMPHAL ARCHES. 301

Ecoles de Natation. Swimming Schools.

The principal is at the Quai d'Orsai,but there are
three others, one near the Pont des Arts, another fbir
ladies near the Pont au Change, and the third near
the Steam Engine of Gros Cafllou.

In the summer season these schools are much fre-
quented by the young Parisians. The art of swim-
ming is expeditiously taught, and at a very reason-
able expense, 3 francs only beuig charged for each
lesson.

TRIUMPHAL ARCHES.

Porte St. Denis. Gate of St. Denis.

[Opposite Rue St. Denis.] G 3.

The name of gate is now improperly given to this
edifice ; it is truly a triumphal arch. It was erectei
in 1 672, by the city of Paris, in commemoration of the
uninterrupted series of victories which distinguished
one period of the reign of Louis XIV. It forms a
perfect square of seventy-two feet. On each side of
the arch are pyramids in bas-relief, filled with tro-
phies. The arrangement of the different pieces, and
the execution of the whole, will scarcely yield to the
celebrated column of Trajan.

On the side towards the city, colossal figures of
Holland and the Rhine sit at the base of the p3nra-
mids, and the pediment over the arch represents the
passage of the Rhine. Above is the inscription
Ludovico Magno, Towards the suburb, the pyra-
mids rest on lions, and the bas-relief over the arch
represents the taking of Maesbricht.

This monument has been regarded as one of the
noblest works of the age of Louis XIV., whether we
consider the harmony of its proportions, or the admi-

Digitized by Google

a02 TftlUKPHAL AR€H&9;

rable . execution of all its parts. It was ^ected by
M. Biondel, and the ornaments were sculptured by
F. Anguier. Having suffered some injury from tiniO
and from the ravages of the Revolution, M. Cellerier,
was ettiplpyed to repair it* . It does much credit to his
taste and his modesty, that he has contented himself
with restoring its original inscriptions and sculptures,
without one addition or embelhshment.

Porte Si, Martin, Gkite of St. Martin.

[Opposite Rue St. Martin.] G 3. • * *

This triumphal arch was likewise built during the
reign of Louis XIV., in 1^74. It fonn» a square of
54 feet, and is divided info three arches, the centre^
which js 16 feetwide atid 30 h%h,and the others 8
feet wide and 16 high. The spaces above the smaller
arches are occupied by bas-reliefs, representing, to-
wards the city, the taking of Besanfon, and the
Triple Alliance ; and on the side of the suburb, the
taking of Limbourg, and the defeat of the Germans.
Above is a pediment, and an inscription extending
through the whole of the front. l%ie architect was
P. Bidlet, and the bas-reliefs were sculptured by De
Marsy, le Hongre, Desjardins, and Legros. "

The gate of St. Martin is inferior to that of St
Denis in richness, but it does not yield to it in har-
mony of proportion, or delicacy of execution.

TRIUMPHAL ARCH OF THE TUILERIRS. E 4.

This arch, which forms the principal entrance to the
court of the Tuileries, was erected in 1806, from de-
signs by M. Percier and Fontaine. . It is built xxm the
plan pf that of Septimius Severus at Rome, nor is It
inferior to its celebrated original. It is sixiy feet
wide, and forty-five feet hi^. : The- centre arch is
fourteen wide, the others eight and a-half Each
froot is decorated with lour colunmsiiif tide Gorinthaaa

Digitized by Google-

PORTE S"^ MARTIN.

Digitized by Google

TRIUMPHAL ARCHES. iM

order, of Languedoc marble, supporting marble
figm^s, representing different soldiers ; towards the
palace are a grenadier, a cannonier, acarabinier, and
a pioneer ; on the other side are a cuirassier, a dra-
goon, a carabinier, and a chasseur.

The roofs of the side arches are decorated with
thunderbolts and branches of laurel and palm ; and
on the frieze are sculptured allegorical ngures and
ehildren bearing garlanas.

The figures of Fame on the principal arch, front-
ing the palace are by Taunay ; and those on the
opposite side by Dupasquier.

The smaller arches'" w6re formerly adorned with
bas-reliefs, representing, on the side towards the
palace, the entry of Munich, and the interview of
the two emperors ; and on the other side, the battle of
Austerlitz and the capitulation of Ulm ; but these
were removed by the Allies in 1815.

Over the cenfre arch, also, in a triumphal car, was
tiie statue of Napoleon. The bronze horses were the
celebrated productions of Lysippus, whicK formerly
omamentecl the square of St. Marc at Venice, and
which had before adorned the arch of Nero at Rome.

This group, which had a picturesque effect, and
well terminated a building remarkable for the ele-
gance of its proportions, the happy arrangement of
its different parts, and the inimitable execution of the
whole, has also disappeared. The horses have been
restored to their rightful owners, and the statue of
Nap(^eon has been hurled to the ground.

TRIUMPHAL ARCH DE L'eTOILE. B 2.

Buonaparte had commenced a triumphal arch at
the Barriere de I'Etoile, or de Neuilly, which was to
have surpassed every similar edifice in magnitude, and
to have announced to future generations his triumph
oyer Russia and Europe. It had already attamed

Digitized by Google

304 BARRIBRS.

a considerable elevation, and formed a conspicuous
object from the Tuileries, and the bank of the Seine ;
but it yet stands an unfinished monument of disap-
pointed pride and baffled ambition. It is, however,
intended to complete it in commemoration of the
campaign in Spam by the Duke d'AngouIeme.

The architect entrusted with the erection of this
edifice was M. Chalgrin, who conunenced it Aug. 15,
1806. The breadth of the arch towards the Tuile-
ries is 47 feet, and the height 87 ; the whole height
was intended to be 135 feet.

BARRIERES DE PARIS.

THE BARRIERS OF PARIS.

These are situated at the several principal avenues
to the suburbs of the city, and are occupied by the
custom-house officers, who are stationed there to
collect the duties. Mons. Le Doux has very tastefully
diversified the form of these buildings. The barrier
of ChaiUot bears the appearance of a row of pillars ;
those of Paillassons and TEcole Militaire resemble
two chapels. On the side of Mont Pamasse de la
Voirie and Grenelle, the Barriers assume a heavy
and massive appearance, while others display rural
simplicity. Beyond La Rap6e the eye is greeted
with a temple dedicated to Venus, and the Barrier of
the Gobelins is entitled Marengo.

As it would too much extend the boundaries of this
publication to enter into a detailed account of the
fifty-six Barrieres that environ Paris, the writer will
mention only the following : —

Barriere de Fontainebleau, ou de Vltalie. G 7.

The barrier of Fontainebleau consists of two parallel
buildings, placed on each side of the road. Five ar-

Digitized by Google

BAERISRSI. SOS

cades form a covered porch. The whole is sunple,
elegant, and original.

Barriere dti Trone ; or, de St, Antoine, or de Vin^
cennes, K •.

This Barrier presents two lodges, each forty-nine
feet square, and 270 feet from each other, A palisade
connects them, in the centre of which two columns
of the Doric order are elevated, each seventy-five
feet high, and placed on a square building, which
serv^es for a pedestal.

The effect of the whole is vexy pleasing, and well
announces the entrance to the metropohs of the
kingdom. It was called Bamere du Trone, because
a throne was erected here when Louis XV. entered
Paris in triumph.

Barrm-ede St. Martin^ or de Villette, H 1.
The Earner of St. Martin is square, each front pre-
senting a peristyle, composed of eight columns of
the Tuscan order. Above rises a circular building
with twenty arcades, plain and unadorned. The
style of the whole is bold, raascuhne, and perfectly
unique.

Barntre de tEtoile, or de Neuilly, C 2.
This is placed near the unfinished triumphal arch,
it consists of two square buildings, each adorned by
20 colossal columns, a cornice, and four entabla-
tures, and terminating in a circular roof resembling
a dome.

Barriire de Passy. B 4.
This edifice is embellished by twelve columns, four
entablatures, and two colossal statues representmg
Brittany and Nonnandy.

^ « D 3

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806 MAEKBT8.

MARKETS.

The French have two words for a market, namely,
Hcdle and MarcJU : the former, correctly s];>ealdng,
should only be applied to places where things are
sold by wholesale, and the latter to an ordinary re-
tail market.

The markets of Paris were formerly small and in-
convenient, and the halls for the use of the mer-
chants mean and insignificant. The last age, how-
ever, has been singularly occupied in the embellish-
ment or erection of numerous monuments of public
utility; and, within the last twenty years, edifices
have been commenced or finished, which have cost
the state more than fifty milHons of francs.

Foremost on the list stands

HaUeauBU. The Com Market.
iRue de Fiarme$.] F 4.
M. Mazieres constructed this hall in 1762, for the
sale of wheat and other com. It was celebrated for
its circular form, the lightness of its arches, the ele-
gance of its architecture, and its pleasing appearance
Both within and without. This building proving too
small, it was resolved to cover the comrt, although it
was no less than 120 feet in diameter. This was ac-
complished by one immense arch. After enduring
twenty -two years, it was destroyed by fire in 1802.

The present hall, from designs by Bellanger, is
built of cast-iron ; and to lessen the former trans-
parency, by which the eye was dazzled, rather than
the edifice agreeably illuminated, the light is ad-
mitted by a lantern in the centre, 37 feet in diameter.
The interior diameter of the iron cupola is 131 Eng-
lish feet. In the centre of the haJl is an echo.

On the outside of tlae edifice, and attached to the

Digitized by Google

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HALLE Atr B-LE.

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MAR CHE ST GERMAIN.

Digitized by Google

MARKETS. S07

wall, is an astroaomical column, which Catherine
de Medicis ordered to be built in 1572, from designs
by Bullant. It is of the Doric style of architecture,,
and 95 feet in hdght. At its foot is a public foun-.
tain, and on its summit an enormous sun-dial.

The hall is open every Wednesday and Saturday-
for the sale of grain, and every day for flour.

Malle aux Drops et aux Toiles. The Cloth and

Linen Hall.

[Rue de la Poteiie.'} F 4.

The exterior decoration of this building, constructed
about 1786, by Legrand and Molinos, is imposing.
A double flight of steps leads to the interior, the im-
mense halls of which are hghted by fifty windows.
It is open for the sale of cloth every day from ten
to three, and for linen at the same hours for five
days after the first Monday in every month.

Halle aux Vim. The Wine HalL
iOMai St, Bernard,^ G 5.

The ancient hall having fallen to utter ruin. Na-
poleon commanded the first stone of the present
magnificent dep6t to belaid in 1811, from designs
by Gaucher. It is open every day in summer from
5 to 12, and from 2 to 7, and in winter from 7 to
12, and from 2 to 5.

The work was discontinued for some time, but is
now likely to be completed. It is inclosed on three
sides by a wall, and towards the river is defended
by an iron railing nearly 1000 yards in length.

It is divided into streets, named after the dififerent
kinds of wine. Rue de Champagne, Rue de Bour-
gogne. Rue de Bourdeaux, Rue de Languedoc,
and Rue de la C6te d'Or. The last street is the
finest, extending the whole breadth of the market,
and separating the piles of building in front from

Digitized by Google ^

SOS' MAtlKBTS.

ihose which are behind. Tlie latter are adorned
with a noble terrace, and on the side towards the
quay are six offices for the clerks who superintend
the entrance and departure of the wines. There are
seven piles of building ; four in front and three be-
hind. Of those in front, two in the centre are used
as a market, and are each divided into seven com-
partments; the otiier two contain together forty-
nine cellars. The* whole is capable of containing
400,000 casks, or, on an emergency* double that
number. In the back-ground is the oulding appro-,
pfriated to brandies.

In the Halle there is also a Bureau, containing
measures of all the casks used in different parts of
JF^nce ; and if a purchaser thinks that a cask which
he has bought is not full measure, he can require
it to be measured. The expense of the Halle aux
Vins is calculated at ten millions of francs. Every
cask that enters pays a duty of one franc^ and the
daily numlDer frequently amounts to fifteen hundred.

Grenierde Reserve, ou ctAbondance, Granary. H 5.

This immense building was commenced in 1807,
near the Boulevard Bourdon, under the direction of
Delauttoy, and was intended to consist of five stories,
but the original design was given up. The edifice,
in its present state, cost upwards of five millions of
francs, and is capable of containing sufficient cwn '
to supply Paris for two months.

HcUle aux Cuirs* Leather Market.
{Rve de Mauconseil.l F 8.

This edifice was erected in 1780, on the site of the
old French Theatre. It is open every day from \%
to 3. A

jitizedbyLiOOgl, ,

MARKETS. SO^

Dq)6t des Laines. Wool Warehouse.

[Port de rmpital. No. 35.]

This dep6t was established in 1813, for the reception
of French wool, which is washed and sold here for
the proprietors. The market days are We^esday
and Friday.

Marchides Innocens. Market of the Innocents.
[Between Rue Feronnerie and Rue aux Fen.] F 4.

In the ninth century a tower occupied this space,
which was built to repel the attacks of the Normans.
This being destroyed, the place was converted into a
burial-ground, and more tlian half of the population
of Paris was interred here. A church dedicated to
the Innocents was likewise built. In 17S5, this
church was demolished ; and the putrid exhalations
which spread around rendered it necessary to shut
up the cemetery, which had been a scandal and a
nuisance to the very centre of the city. The nui-
sance, however, continued; for the ground, com-
pletely satm-ated with the dead, refused longer to
assist in their decomposition. It was therefore de-
te;?mined to remove tiiem from the cemetery, and to
convert the vast expanse into a market for vegeta-
bles. The catacombs received the mouldering bones ;
the more offensive remains of mortality were con-
veyed to a considerable distance from Paris, and the
principal and most pleasing market of tlie metropolis
was established.

In the centre is a beautiful fountain, which has
already been described. This market is generally
called La Halle.

The second house under the piliers des haUes^ to
the left on entering by the Rue St. Honor6, is that
in which MoHdre was born. On the front is a bust
ojf tWs celebrated author, with an inscription.

>d by Google

BIO MARKBTffi

Marchk au Poissoui Ush Market.

[Between the Rue de la Tonnellerie and the Piliers des

Potiers d'Etain.] F 4.

This is a recent erection, consisting of an elegant
root supported only by columns^ in order to afiow
a free circulation of air. It is in the -form of a
parallelogram, and contains 227 stalls. Fish is sold
here wholesale, by auction, from four o'clock till
eight every morning, to the frshthongers, who after-
wards retail it on the same spot,

' Marchc au Beurre, aux (Eufs, et au Fromage,

Butter, Egg, and Cheese Market

[Between the Rue de la Tonnellerie and the Piliers dei

Pptiers d'Etain,] P 4.

Was erected for the accommodation of the country
people who bring butter, eggs, and cheese to Paris.
It is of a triangular form, and is entered by hand-
some iron gates. This market opens daily at noon,
hnt the sales are as follows : — Mondays, butter from
the environs, and eggs; Tuesdays, cheese; Wed-
nesdays, butter of Isigny; Thursday, butter of
Goumay ; other days, butter from the environs and
eggs.

MarchS h la Volaile, ou des Augtistins. The Poultry
Market, or Market of the Augustines.
iQuai des GranAs Auguttins.'^ F 4.
Nothing can be more elegant than this edifice, con-
sisting^ of four galleries, separated by four ranks of
pillars, and forming innumerable arcades. Between
the pillars are placed iron railings with numerous
gates. The building is 190 feet long, and 141 wide.

A fresh assortment of poultry and game usually
arrives every Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Sa-
turday,.

Digitized by Google

markets;- Sll

. Marchi St Martin. St. Martin's Market. *
{Rue Fiepillon,'] G S.

A MARKET of unusual el^ance and convenience was
erected in the garden of the ancient priory of St
Martin, in 1811, from designs by Petit Radel. It
contains no less than 300 stalls, and has a fountain
in the centre supplied with water by the canal de
TOurcq, and adorned with figures by Gois, junior.

MarM SL Joseph. St. Joseph's Market.

[Rue Montmartre, No. 144.] F S.

This little market was built in 1794, on the site of
ra chapel dedicated to St. Joseph. Moliere and La-
Fontame had been buried here, and their remains
are now trodden un^er foot by the venders of poultry
and fish.

MarchS St. Jean. St. John's Market.
[Rue de la Ferrerie.] G -4.

Pierre de Craon having assassinated the Consta-
.ble CHsson in 1391, all his property was confiscated,
and his habitation razed to the ground. The place
on which it stood was given to the churchwardens of
St. Jx)hn. who auffmented then- burial-ground with
it. At what peiioa it was converted into a market is
4iot knowiL

Marchi des Blancs Manteoux.
[Opposite the Rue des Blancs Manteaus.] G 4.

This small market was opened in 1819, and occur
pies a space about 80 feet square. A separate build-
ing for butchers is open on Wednesdays and Satur-
days. On each side of the entrance is the head of an
,ox in bronze, from which water flows into a basin.

Digitized by Google

812 MARKETS.

MareM St. Oermain. St. Germain's Market.
[Ruedu Four,"] E 5.

On a spot which was once occupied by a multitude
of the meanest huts, and which was the resort of the
lowest orders of the dissolute and abandoned, a spa-
cious, elegant,, and commodious market-house has
been erected from designs by Blondel. It was com-
menced in 1813, and contains upwards of 400 stalls.
At the end of the vestibule is a good colossal statue
of Abundance, by Milhomme. "

MarcJU des Carmes. Carmelites* Market
[Rue des Not/ers\'i F 5.

This market was opened in 1818. It bears some
resemblance to that of St. Grermain, tliough it is not
so large, elegant, or convenient. It is adorned with
a fountain.

MarcfU du Vieux Linge, Rag Fair.
iRaedu Temple.^ G 8.

A MULTITUDE of pillars support the four enormous
halls of which this immense bazaar is compost.
It contains 800 stalls or shops.

MarM aux Fleurs, The Flower Market.
[QMai Dessaix.'} F 4.

This market is tastefully arranged, and is even su-
perior to the south of Covent Garden in the months
of May and June. The quay on which it is held is
planted with two rows of trees, and ornamented
with two fountains. The market days are Wednes-
day and Saturday.

Marchc aux Fruits. The Fruit Market.

iQuai de la Toumelle.] G 6.

This market is well supplied every day with such

Digitized by Google

MARKKTS. SIS

bruits as are in season, most part of which arrive by
water.

MarcfU aux Chevaux. The Horse Market.
[ Boulevard de FHSpUal,] G 6.

Held on Wednesdays and Saturdays, from 1 to 4,
from Nov. to Feb. ; from 2 to 5, in March, April,
Sept. and Oct. ; and from 3 to 7, in May, June, July,
aaid August. A strict police is preserved here, to
prevent unsound horses from being sold. Exact
registers of sales are kept, and the seller is answer-
able for 9 days, accordmg to the warrant given at
the sale. At tiie end of the market are two foun-
tains.

The Cattle and Sheep Markets are out of town,
at Sceaux on Monday, and on Thursday at Poissy.
Butchers who are established must open an account
with two public banks, established for the purpose of
making payments in ready money to dealers in cattle.
They may do this by giving security, from I to 3000
fiuncs. The catsses, or baims, make the pa^rments for
their ]^urchases to the amount of the security. This
is a wise regulation to prevent prices being raised by
credit, or ssdes being stopped for want of money.

Halle aux Veaux, Calves' Maiket.

[Rue de Pois$y and de Pontoise,'] G 5.

Was built by Lenoir, in 1774, and is well adapted for
its purpose. It is open on Tuesdays and Fridays,
from 9 to 2, for the sale of calves ; on Tuesday, for
tallow ; and on Friday, from 12 to 2, for cows.

MarcM de la Viande,
[Rue des Proiwaires,] F 4.
This new market, for the sale of butchersVmeat, is
on a large scale, and excellently planned.

Digitized by Google

014 SLAUOHTBR-UQUSES.

. The Fish Market every day, Rue Montmartre.

The Hay Market, Barriere d'Enfer, Rue du Fau*
bourg St Martin.

The Potato Market, Place de L6gat

The Pork Market (Maison Blanche), onWednesday
and Saturday.

Abattoirs, Slaughter-Houses.
Thb slaughter-houses, which are considered the nui-
sance and disgrace of the English metropolis, are
placed in the outskirts of Paris, and under the in-
spection of the police* The slaughter-house of Mont-
martre, at the end of Rue Rochechouart, built by
Poidevin, in 1811, rivals many of the public build-
ings in its external appearance. ' It is no less than
1074 feet in length, and 384 in depth, and is water^
by sluices from the Ourcq. On entering it, the
stranger perceives no disagreeable smell; he "wit^
nesses no disgusting sight ; and often he would not
suspect the purpose to which the building is devoted.
The English traveller should not fail to visit these
useful edifices. He wiU return with a wish to re-
form those nuisances, and abodes of cruelty, fiHh,
and pestilence, whic^ disgust him in the capital of
his own cquntry.

The slaughter-house of Popincourt, orMenilmon-
tant. Rue des Amandiers, almost rivals that at Mont-
martre. It was built by Gaulthier, in 1811. The
other slaughter-houses are. Abattoir de Grenelle, near
the Barriere de Sevres, built by Gisors, in 1811 ; du
Roule or de Mouceaux, Faubourg du Roule, qout
structed by Petit Radel, in 1810 ; and de ViHe Juif,
or d'lvry. Boulevard de THopital, erected by Lenoh",
in 1810.

The expense of these establishments is defrayed by
si tax on each animal killed.

Strangers rmxy visit them by appl^ng at the por^

Digitized by Google

^VHtB OV JtjWlOBi 81*

ter's hdg^, for a guide, to whom a small fee must
be given.

The number of butchers in Paris is 355, who oc-
cupy 355 stalls, 112 slaughter*houses, and 17 melt-
ing-houses. Tlie 28 melting-houses at the abattoirs
are likewise under their direction, namely, eight at
Montmartre, eight at Menil-montant, four at Gre-
nelle, four at du Roule, fom- at Ville Juif. The fol-
lowing is a statement of animals consumed in Paris
ill a recent year :— oxen, 70,81 9 ; cows, 6479 ; calves^
67,719 ; sheep, 3^9,070 ; and pigs, 64,822.

COURTS Ot' JUSTICE.

Since the restoration of the Bourbons, the French
government have evinced an anxiety to administer
justice in a similar manner to that practised in Eng-
land, particularly as it respects trial by jury. TSe
<^ancellor of France is the supreme head of all the
courts of justice ; but the minister of justice is gene-
rally the keeper of the seals*

All the pnncipal courts are held iat the Palais de
Justice.

Cour de Cassation. Court of Appeal.

It is composed of a president, three vice-presidents,
ftnd forty ^ye counsellors. Tliis court does not judge
respecting the rights of the parties, but only reversed
or confirm* a decree when an appeal is made to it,
either on account of informality m the proceedings,
or misapplication of the laws. It is the suprepie
court for the whole of France, and is called Cassation,
because it can break {casser) the sentences of any of
the other courts, excepting those of justices of the'
peace or of courts-martial. The time allowed for

Digitized by Google

316 POURTS OF JU8TIGB.

making an appeal in civil matters is three months, in
criminal malters only three days.

The library of the Court of Appeal contains about
30,000 volumes.

Cour des Comptes. Coiut of Accompts.

It has a president, three vice-presidents, ten masters
of accompts, and eighty referees. It attends to the
oaths of ttiose who receive or pay public money, and
judges all causes relative to the revenues of the state,
mortgages, &c. It opens at nine o'clock in the mom-
j^, but is shut up during September and October.

Cour Royale. Royal Coiut.

It consists of a president, five vice-presidents, and
numerous other officers. It is divided into five cham-
bers, three for civil actions, one for appeals from the
Correctional Police, and another for accusation, or
indictments. It sits from the day after the first Sun-
day in December, till the 15th August, and is open
every day except Sundays and holidays, from 9
till 12.

Tribunal de Premise Instance. Tribunal of the
First Instance.

It is divided into six chambers, five for civil affairs,
and the sixtti for correctional. The audiences for
civil affairs are open every day except Sundays and
Mondays, between 9 and 12 in the morning. The
Chamber of Correctional Police opens at 10.
The library consists of 20,000 volumes.

There are 114 notaries in Paris, who write all
agreements, wills, life certificates, leases, mortgages,
sales of estates, and other authentic acts. Attorneys
in Paris do not, as in London, transact any business

Digitized by VjOOQli

COURTS OP JtriTICE. 317.

df this kitid. The differetioe \)etW6eYl cOnv^rmcing
attorney and attorney at ooncmton law, is only vobin-
tary in En^and ; biit it is not so in France, wtere
the avouS, or attorney at law, never makes convey*
ances, and the notary cannot act in a court of law.

Tribunal de Commerce, Tribunal of Commerce.
[In the Exchange.]

T^is court sits every Tuesday, Thursday, and Fri*'
day, at 10, for summary causes, and on Monday and
Wednesday, from 1 2 to 4, for pleadings. The judges
are commercial men of great reputation. There ar».
ten officers, called ^arflfe* de commerce, who properly
belong to. this court, and who have the exclusive
power of personal arrest.

Tribunal de Police Municipal, Court of Municipal
Police.

This is held at the Palais de Justice^ The justices
of ihe peace sit here alternately, and judge aU police
affairs, from 1 franc to 25 francs.

Juges de Paix. Justices of the Peace.

The's^ are twelvein number, being one for each ar-
rondissement, who settle all trifling differences be-
tween individuals. They hold their sittings at the
following places: — No. 33, Rue Cammartin ; No. 8,
Rue des Petits Champs; No, 10, Rue Hauteville ;
No. 9; Rue de Four St. Hdnore ; No. 4, Rue The-
venot ; No. 8, Rue d'AngoulSme ; No^ 32, Rue (fii
Roi de Sicile ; No. 54, Hue des Tournelles ; No.
l4. Rue Beautreillis ; No. 40, Rue de Grenelle ; Noi
24, Rue Servandoni ; No. 33, Quai de la Toumdle.

Commissaires de Police, Commissaries of tlie

Police.

Their office is similar to that of. the constables in

2E3

>d by Google

31 a PEJSONS.

England. They^ attend at public places, and receive
all complaints m the first instance. There are foiur
commissioners of police in each arrondissement*
Their houses may be recognised by a lantern sus-^
pended over the doors.

Prefecture de Police,

[Quai des Orfivres.'l

The prefect of police, who is under the control of the
Minister of the Interior, has the management of all
the prisons in Paris and the department of the Seine,
and also of tfie dep6t of mendicity. He gives audi-
ence every Monday at two o'clock. The office is open
for general business every day from 9 tiU 4.

Commiiioires Priseurs. Auctioneers and
Appraisers.

Thb niunber of these in Paris is fixed at eighty, who
have the exclusive privilege of appraising and selling
goods by auction. The court which controls them
sits at No. 3, Rue Jean Jacques Rousseau, on Sun-
days, at ten o'clock in the morning, and on Thurs-
days, at six o'clock in the evening. It is subject to
the Tribunal de Premiere Instance.

PRISONS.

Prison de la Force. Prison of La Force.

{Rue du Rot de Siciie, No. 19, Pris la Place Royale.} '
G4.

Iv it were admissible to say that the structure and
portal of a prison were agreeable, the building now
under review deserves attentipn. The massive vault-
ing of the great entrance presents a vary fine speci-
men of modem architecture, and is the only one of
this kind in Paris.

Digitized by Google

PRISONS. 319

This prison was formerly the hotel of the Duke de
la Force. It is appropriated to the confinement of
persons accused of crimes, previous to trial, and is
divided into six departments^ each having a court-
yard, covered gallery, infirmary, a store for common
use, and reflectors, which are kept burning all night,

Le Temple, The Temple.
[Rue de la Corderie,] G 8.

The 'tower of the Temple was used as a place of
confinement for prisoners of state. It was particu-
larly interesting to the traveller, as having been the
last residence of the unfortunate Louis XV I. and his
family, who only quitted its gloomy precincts to as-
cend the scaffold. -

The gallant Sir Sidney Smith was confined here,
and within these walls the unfortunate Captain Wright
lost his life.

The pile of buildings which originally occupied the
enclosure of the Temple has been partly demolished ;
and streets have been erected on the site communi-
cating with the Corderie.

The Temple was built in 1200, and was the prin-
cipal residence of the Knights Templars. Then* in-
creasing ninnbers, wealth, and power, rendered them
an object of jealousy to the sovereigns in whose do-
minions they resided, and the Pope and the King of
France conspired together to dissolve the order, and
to seize on all their riches. They were accus^ of
the most horrible crimes, were condemned almost
unheard, and fifty-four of them were burnt with a
slow fire on the Pont Neut

La Concitrgerie, F 4.

This prison is situated under the Palais de Justice,
and is appropriated for the reception of those who.

>d by Google

Si6 PRISONS.-

cwivicted of crimes, gtwaitthe sentence of the law..
The entrance to this fabric is in theuourt of the Pa-
lace, being rendered conspicuous by an ornamented
arcade. A dark vestibule communicates with the
jailor's apartments, and with the rooms for close con-
finement, in one of which Lavalette was imprisoned/
At the end is a long, dark gallery, in which is a dun-
geon where the princess Elizabeth, sister of Louis
XVI., was confined ; another in which Robespierre
was imprisoned ; and a third which was occupied by-
Louvel, who assassinated the Duke de Berry. Within
the walls also of this fatal building were confined, in
1794, the famous Lavoisier, Malesherbes, Condorcet,
and numerous other characters, as renowned for their
virtues as for their science.

The apartment in which the beautifiil Marie An-
toinette was confined for two or three months pre-,
vious to her execution, has been converted into a
chi^)el, containing an expiatory altar with a Latin^
inscription to her memoiy, said to be written by
Louis XVIII., together with several pictures repre-
senting some of the last scenes of her life. There
s^e also tablets in memoiy of Louis XVI. and the'
Rrincess Elizabeth, adorned with their paedallions.

Tickets <^ admission to this chapel may he had.
on personal application with a passport to the chief
y the second bureau^ at the prefecture of police.

Si, Pelagic,
IRue de la def. No. 14.} G 6.

This building, erected in 1665, for the reception of
female penitents, was converted into a prison at the
commencement of the Rtvolution. It is large, com-
modious, well distributees and well ventilated. It is
BOW ia place of confineffi^ for debtors, and for thos^
who ajpe detained by tlie-p<^ce.

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PRISONS* 321

Penmsaion to visit this prison may be obtained
by writing to Mons. le Secretaire de la Prefecture
4e Police.

Maison de Refuge,
[Rue des Qrh,]
This was formerly a convent of Jacobins. It is now
appropriated to the confinement of young delin-
quents, who are instructed in reading and writing by
VoRfreres des icolee chretiennes.

Madehnnettea.
iRue des Fontaines, No. 16, au Marais,] G S.
It was formerly a monastery, but is now trans-
formed into a prison for women convicted of crimes,
and those who are arrested for debt. The prisoners
are employed in spinning, embroidery, sewmg, and
mending Imen. The chaise to those who send work
is low, and it is very well done.

BicStre,

The BicStre is situated on the road to Fontaine-
bleau, about a league and a half from Paris. In
the centre of an hospital for the blind and insane is
a strong prison, in which those who are condenmed
to the galleys are confined and employed, until ihe
time of theur departure. They who are adjudged to
suffer a certain period of imprisonment are likewise
often sent here, and many who are suspected of
crimes against the state are lodged within these walls.

St, Lazare.
[Rue du Faubourg St, Denis, No, 117.] G 2.
Women sentenced to different periods of imprison-
ment are confined here, under an excellent system of
management, and being compelled to work, are fre-
quently taught habits of industry. The beautiful

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dSl9^ CHARITABLE INSf ITUTIONS«

needle-work of th6 inhabitants of St. Lazare is uni-
versally admired.

To visit this prison application must be made Uy
Monsieur le Secretaire ae la Prefecture de Police.

LAbhaye. The Abbey.

[Rue St. Miirguerite, Faubourg St, Germain, No» ICJ
E 5.

I'his is now exclusively a military prison. It w^^
the theatre of the most dreadful massacres in Sfep-
tember, 1792.

Prison de Montaigu.
[Rue des Septs Foies.] F 6.

Is a prison for deserters. It was formaiy^ cele-
brated college.

Mmson dArrit de la Garde Nationale.

[Quai St. Bernard. \ G 5*

In this house the soldiers of the national guard,

when that body existed, were confined for breaches.

of discipline.

CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS.

Thb hospitals and charitable institutions of Paris
are supported and maintained by government, ancl
are under the direction of a General Council, con-
sisting of the principal magistrates, and of men dis-
tinguished by their probity, talents, dnd philanttiropy.
There is also an acting committee, under the G^ne»»
ral Council, who attend more particularly to the in-
ternal arrangements of the various institutions. The
sick and the infirjn are attended by nurses, and visited
by skilful surgeons and physicians, and ussistange is

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HOTEL DBS INVALIPES. S0$

given thenr at-home by committees f<»tned of twelve
members.

The name of Hopitaux is genially appropriated
to the establishments for the sick, and that of Hospices
to those in which the aged, children, and the infirm
are received. The number of these is scarcely credi-
ble. More than 15,000 beds are made up at the dif-
ferent hospitals and hospices, and the annual expen^
diture is calculated at 250,000/.

The average annual expense of the hospitals is
2,329.954 francs. The total number of beds is 5264,
in which from 40 to 50,000 sick are annually accom-
modated. The average expense of each bed is 603
francs, and the nuiabier of beds generally-occupied is
3860. The average number of deaths is about I in 7.
' The average expense of the hospices is 2,958,823
francs. They generally contain about 9500 persons,
who each cost 90 centimes a day.

About 1,500,000 francs are annually distributed to
the indiffent at their own houses.

The Bureaux of the Acting Committee are at Rue
.Neuve Notre Dame, No. 2.

The Hospitals of Paris are generally clean and in
good order, and for this they are principally indebted
to tlie Soeurs de la CharitK a religious order, who
wait upon the sick and nurse them with the greatest
.care. The physicians and surgeons generedly visit
the patients in the principal hospitals at seven in the
morning, and give clinical lectures at nine.

The principal Dissecting Rooms are at la Pitict
,la Charitkj and VHhpital ae la Perfection, near the
School of Medicine.

Hotel des Invalides, ou Hotet de Mars, Hospital
f for Invalids. D 4.

An hospital for the veterans of the army was origr-
nally projected by Henry III,, and was carried into

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S84 fiOTlEL DSS tKVAttDE^.

execution by Henry IV., who, in 1595, founded the
Maison Royale de la Charit6 Chr^tienne as a retreat
for the brave men who had been his companions in
arms. Louis XIII. transferred them to the chateau
of Bicfttre, but Louis XIV. deeming this too mean
an asylum, and thinking that the men whose blood
had flowed for the safety and honour of their country
deserved a peaceable and comfortable refuge in their
old age, ordered L. Bruant to construct Ihe present
bidldmg, which was commenced in 1671, and finished
in eight years.

The edifice happily unites a bold and masculine
character that suited the purpose to which it was
devoted, with the magfiificence Cf the sovereign who
erected it.

It is composed of five courts, of equal form and
-dimensions, surrounded by buildings, and covers a
space of 35,488 square yards. A vast esplanade,
IxMrdered by rows of trees, and the centre decorated
by a fountain, gives to the principal fagade towards
the Seine a noble perspective. A superb railing en-
closes the court before the hotel. The front extend-
ing 204 yards, consists of three floors above the
basement, which is pierced with arcades. An ad-
vanced building presents itself in the centre, and at
each extremity. That in the centre, and in which
is the principal entrance, is decorated by Ionic pilas-
ters, supporting a magnificent arch, m which is a
bas-reliei contaming an equestrian statue of Louis
XrV. accompanied by Justice and Prudence, the
workmansliip of the younger Coustou. This bas-
relief was destroyed during the Revolution, but has
since been restored by Cartellier.

On each side of the gate are other figures repre-
senting the nations conquered by Louis XIV., with
colosssd statues of Mars and Minerva.

The spacious dome which adorns the church was
constructed by J. H. Mansard. It is surrounded by

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HOTEL DES IMVALIDBS. 325

foHy columns of the Composite order, covered with
lead, and ornamented with gilding, which gives it a
splendid but gaudy appearance. Above is a cupola
with pillars, supporting a lantern surmounted by a
cross, which is 308 feet from the ground. From
this lofty situation is an extensive view of Paris and
its environs.

Two marble statues, 1 1 feet in height, representing
St. Louis, by the elder Coustou, and Charlemagne
by Coysevox, are placed in niches beneath the
peristyle.

The chiurch is regarded as the chef-d'oeuvre of
French architecture, although it has been justly re-
marked that the portal is too small and too much
divided to suit the lofty building to which it conducts.
The interior of the dome was painted by Charles
La Fosse, and represents the Apotheosis of St.
Louis. Beneath it are the Twelve Apostles, by
Jouvenet, and still lower the Four Evangelists, by
La Fosse.

From the dome were suspended the colours taken
from different nations. They exceeded three thou-
sand. It was a sublime idea to make the asylum of
these veterans the depository of the choicest spoils
of war. As they walked beneath the waving banners,
perhaps the trophies of their own valour, every glo-
rious exploit in which they had borne a share was
recalled warm to their memory. They forgot their
wounds, they forgot their age ; again they fought
the battles of then: country ; again they exulted in
the shout of victory. When the Allies were about
to enter Paris, the French invalids tore down the
banners, and made a bonfire of them, that it might
never be said they were retaken.

The sword of the great Frederick was likewise
deposited here. It was claimed by Prince Bluchei
on the entrance of the Allies into the capital, and

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395 HOTBL DEa IllVALIDSS.

restored to Berlin, whence it had been taken by
Buonaparte.

Around the dome are six chapels which desenre
attention. Those of St. Jerome, St Ambrose, and
St. Augustine, were painted by Boullongne^ and
that of St. Gregory, originally executed by Lebrun,
has been repainted by Doyen. The roof of the Sane*
tuary is the production of N. Coypel, who has re-
presented the Trinity and the Assumption ; and the
groupes of angels on the embrasures of the windows
are by L. and B. BouUongne.

The pavement of the dome and its chapels is
remarkable for its beautiful tesselated work, and is
interspersed with lilies, ciphers, the arms of France,
and the cordon of the Holy Spirit The grand altar,
which was destroyed during the Revolution, has been
restored in the magnificent style by Boischard.

Ever^ accommodation is pr^ared for the comfort
of the interesting inhabitants of this hospital. A
large and well-mmished library, containing 20,000
volumes, offers rational and inexhaustible amuse-
Bient to the officers of every rank. One portion <^
the building contains well-executed models of va-
rious fortified towns in France, but these can only
be seen by an order firom the Minister of War.

On the eround-fioor are four refectories, oma«
mented with frescoes by Martm, and six pictures by
Parrocel the elder, representing events in the life ai
Louis XIV. The visiter should also notice the spa-
cious kitchens, and the clock by Lepaute, the woiiES
of which may be seen by ascendmg tne upper gallery.

Contiguous to the Libraiv is the Council Chamber,
in which and in the two adjoining rooms are placed
portraits of the deceased Marshals of France, a
royal decree having been issued March 26, 1823,
that on the death of any Marshal, his portrait should
be removed from the Tuileiiet to m Hotel doi

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InyafidflH. It is intended to ereot a gallery for their
rec^tion*

In the raults of the church are deposited the
remains of the great Turenne ; a name which ever
recalls to the mind of the Frenchman and the sol-
dier the ideas of invincible courage and unsuUied
honour. On each side of his monument, which is
placed in the chapel, are figures representii:^ Wisdom
and Valour deploring the loss of the hero. In front
is a bas-relief of the battle of Turckeim. The mar-
shal is expiring in the arms of Victoay. The simple
name of "Turenne/* is the only and the sublime
inscription which the mausoleum bears. Not far
from him reposes Marshal Vauban, whose monu-
ment adorns the opposite side of the chapel.

The fountain in the centre of the esj^anade was
formerly enriched by the Hon of bronie tsJcen from
the square of St. Mark at Venice.

It was the intention of Napoleon to have con-
verted the esplanade into a military Elysium. The
statue of every ancient and modem hero was to have
been placed under the waving Ibliage. This would
have completed the sublimity of the edifice.

This hospital contains 7000 men, and is governed
by a marshal of France, who has several subordi-
nate officers. The sick are visited by skilful physi-
cians, and attended by the Sisters of St. Vincent de
Paul

Colonels and lieutenant- colonels are allowed to
take their meals in their own rooms. The officers
are served upon plate and porcelain at tables of
twelve each. Theur hour for dinner is one o'clock,
and for supper seven. The sub-officers and privates
are divided into three parties ; the first have their
breakfast at ten o'clock, and sup at half-past four
o'clock ; the second breakfast at half-past ten o'clock,
and sup at five o'clock; the third dine at twelve

«P8

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328 • HOTEL DIBV*

o*clock, and sup at six. Twelfth Day and fhe king's
birth-day are festivals at the Hotel des Invalides,
and extra allowances are then made to the pen-
sioners.

The hospital is open every day from 10 until 4,
for the inspection of strangers, who will find guides
upon the spot.

Hotel Dieu, Formerly Hospice de Humanity.

[PajTw Notre Dame.] F 6.

This hos^iital, the most ancient in Paris, and con-
stantly crowded with sick, is absurdly situated in
the most populous part of the city.

Towards tne close of the reign of Louis XVI., its
situation and management had become a matt^ of
national concern, and indeed of national danger.
Five thousand sick were crowded in less than 1,400
beds. On the same couch were often stretched the
consumptive patient, the man who was devoured by
a burning fever, the dead and the dying. Neither
the sedulous and tender care of one hundred sisters,
nor the skill of the most celebrated physicians, could
save more than a fifth part of those who were con-
signed to the chambers of the Hotel Dieu : ill-
ventilated, and poisoned by putrid and infectious
miasmata, the slightest malady became dangerous,
and the poor wr^ch who was admitted into this
pestilential abode was already niunbered with the
dead.

Louis XVI., whose humanity can never be ques-
tioned, and who deserved a better fate, was no
sooner informed of this, than he commanded that
other hospitals should be erected in the outskirts of
the city. The dreadful scenes of the Revolution
soon followed, and this benevolent undertaking was
abandoned ; yet many monasteries, which were then
forcibly suppressed, were converted into hospital

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and tf£foeied» althouf^ not no happily nor so com-
pletsly, the purpose which Lotiis intended. L3dng-in
women, scrofulous patients, Uinatics^ those who
were afflicted with chronic diseases or infectious
complaints, and all children, were then consigned
to other receptades.

The Hotel Dieu comprises twelve wards for men»
and eleven for women, containing together 1260
beds.

The unfortunate inhabitants of this building are
tenderly nursed by the Sisters of Charity — a class of
nuns, whose lives are consecrated to me service of
humanity.

The public may visit the estahliskment on Wed-
Tuesdays, Fridays^ and Sunday s^ from one to three
o'clock. Admission on other days may be obtained
by appUooHon to the Agent de Surveillance.

Hospice de la Salpitri^re.

i Boulevard de VH&pUal, near the Jardin Set Plantes.]

H6.
This immense pile of building was iJegun in 1656,
and finished in the year following. It derives its
name from a saltpetre manufactory which formerly
stood here. It generally contains some thousancis
of poor healthy womeujn who are comfortably main-
taiined, but obliged to employ themselves in some
useful work. The principle is similar to that of a
well-conducted English workhouse. One part of
the hospital is appropriated to idiots and epileptio
patients. In a separate court is a prison for the re-?
caption of prostitutes, who are sent here for punish-
ment.

The church attached to the hospital was erected in
1557, from designs by L. Bruant. It is built in the
shape of a Greek cross, the four branches of which
form oayes meeting in an o<^agon dome. The spaces

2F3

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330 HOSPITALS*

in the dome between the nayes aafe likewise pexCo*
rated with arcades, so that the altar may be seen in
eight different directions. The portico is of the lonie
order.

Strangers should visit this establishment brfore
four o'clock^ when they will he shown over the
various apartments. The attendant eapects a small
fee.

Hdpital de la Charity,
[Rue des Saints Ph-et, No. 45.] E 4.
Was founded by Maiy de Medicis, in 1602. It re-
ceives oidy men attacked by acute diseases, or who
have suffered by accidents, and can accommodate
230. A Clinical School is now estabhshed here.
The disposition of the different baths is very in-
genious. The interior portal of this hospital, built
by Antoine, is remarkable as the first specimen of
the Grecian Doric erected at Paris.
The public may visit this hospital^

HSpital St Louis.
{Rue St. Louis, No. 2, Faubourg du Temple.] H 2.

This extensive pile of buildings completely sur-
rounds a court of more than 300 feet square. It is
used as a pest-house, for the reception of ])ersons iU
of infectious diseases, and has very extensive baths
of various descriptions. It contams beds for up-
wards of 800 patients. The precautions to inrevent
the communication of infection deserve the attention
of the medical traveller.

Strangers may see the interior by application to
the porter.

Hdpital Necker.
[Rue de Shres, No. 5.] E 5.
Madamb Necker founded this hospital, in 1778,

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»OBPlTALg« 331

on^e sdte of an ancient convent. It contains 130
beds, and receives the same description of patients
^ the Hotel Dieu. In the hall is a portrait of
Madame Necker.

The hospitcU may be seen on applicaiioh.

Hdpital Beai^on,
[Rue du Faubourg du Roule, No, 54.] C 3.
The architecture of this hospital has been as much
admired as the humane purpose to which it is de-
voted. It is established on the same principle as the
Hotel Dieu, and has 160 beds. It was founded in
1784, by M. Beaujon, from whom it takes its name.

Sundays, Tuesdays, and Thursdays are the days
6n which the public are admitted; but foreigners
may visit it at any time.

Maison de Santc,

[Rue du Faubourg St. Denis, No. 112.] G 2.

The regulations of this house are peculiar. Every
patient is compelled to pay two francs a day for ad-
mission into me common wards. For three francs
each patient has a chamber to himself. This esta-
bhshment is ingeniously and humanely contrived for
those who are unable to procure proper medical as-
sistance, yet whose pride will not permit them to
apply to a common hospital. It was originally situ-
ated in the Faubourg St. Martin.

Hospice des Orphelins.
[Rue du Faubourg St. Antoine, No. 124.] H 5.
This house was established in 1668, for foundlings;
but orphans of both sexes, from two to twelve years
of age, are now maintained and instructed here.
There are generally between five and six hundred.
Strangers may visit this hospital daily.

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389 HO8PITAL0*

Hospice de BicHre.

This edifice (vide p. 321) is about three miles from
Paris, on the road to Fontainebleau, and is a similar
institution to La Saipitrihre, but confined to men
only. At a distance it has the appearance of an
immense pile of fortifications. On a nearer ap-
proach the hospital is found to be unusually lofty,
and surroimded by a foss6.

The proportion of old men in this institution is
great, and almost incredible. It is said that there
are often more than two hundred upwards of seventy
years of age.

The infirmary is remarkably well arranged, and
the building for the insane, completed in 1822, is
commodious.

The immense kitchens, and the well, 207 feet deep,
are generally shown to strangers.

That ^rt of the establishment appropriated to
paupers is open to the public every day, out neither
the prison nor the lunatic asylum can be visited with^
out an order from the Secretary of the Prefecture of
Police,^ The latter, hou>every is sometimes shown to
strangers on (xpplying to the keeper.

Hdpital de la PitiS.

[Rue Fosits St. Victor, behind the Garden of Plants,]
G6.

This establishment was founded in 1612, and was in-
tended to receive the orphan children of soldiers. It
has, however, for several years, been a kind of aux-
iliary to the Hotel Dieu, and contains 600 beds for
the sick. The patients are attended by the Dames
Religieuses de St. Thomas de Villeneuve.

This hospital may be seen by application to the
Agent de Surveillance.

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HOSPITAI.S. 833

Hospice de VAllaitement, ou des Enfans Trbuvie.
[Rue (VEnfer, No, 74.] E 6.

There cannot be a more interesting sight than the
nursery of this hospital. One hundred and fifty
cradles are placed m a line, each containing an
infant. As soon as they can be provided with nurses,
they are removed into diflferent wards, or sent to the
houses of their foster-parents. Nearly six thousand
infants are bom in this hospital, or received into it
every year. Nothing more is necessary than to leave
them at the gate. Not a question is asked, and the
abandoned orphan experiences every care. The chil-
dren are instructed in every necessary and useful
branch of learning; and, at the proper age, are
placed in situations, in which they can creditably
earn their own subsistence, and become respectable
members of society.

I will not here discuss the morality of the esta-
blishment ; but thus much is certain, that the crime
of infanticide is absolutely unknown in the French
metropolis, and that the number of illegitimate chil-
dren m Paris does not exceed those of London,
where the wretched mother finds it so difficult to gain
her helpless infant an asylum in a similar institution ;
and, being required to appear personally, and state
her shame and her desertion, can seldom be induced
to comply with the cruel regulation.

Strangers may visit the establishment daily.

Hospice de t Accouchement, ou de la Maternity.
[Roe de la Bourbe, No. 8.] F 6.
This estabhshment was formerly imited with the
Hospice de TAllaitement, under the title of La Ma-
temite, and is situated in the building which was
once the celebrated Abbey of Port Royal. It is ap-
propriated to the reception of lying-in women, who

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BS^ HOSPITALS.

are attended by skilful physicians, and not allowad
to leave the hospital till nine days after their confine-
ment. They may then take then* children with them»
or send them to the Hospice des Enfans Trouv6s.
About 3000 women are confined here annually.

Strangers may visit this hospital on prodiccing
their passports.

Connected with this establishment is a school,
where 1300 women are annually instructed in mid-
wifery.

HSpital des Enfans Malades. Hospital, for Sick
Children.

{Rue de SSvreSy No. 3.] D 5.

This hospital was formerly appropriated to indigent
women, but it is now devoted to the reception of dis-
eased children under the age of fifteen years. Hie
salubrity of the air, and £e extensive walks which
are attached to the building, singularly contribute to
save many hundreds of the infant population of the
metropolis. It contains about 400 beds.

Stfimgers may easily obtain access to this hos^
pital,

Hdpital Cochin.
[Rue du Faubourg St. Jacques, No, 45.] P 7.
This hospital was founded by the venerable Cochin,
cur6 of the parish in 1 782, who saw with regret his
indigent parishioners exposed to the dangers which
the Hotel Dieu then presented. To provide them
with a safer and more comfortable asylum, he dis-
posed of all his property, and even his books. The
hospital was at first furnished with only^ 38 beds,
but now contains upwards of 130. A marble bust of
the founder is preserved here.

Strangers may procure admission on shotving
their passports.

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HOSPITALS. B8B

Hospice des Minages,
[Rue de la Chaise, No. 28.] E 5.

This is conducted on the same plan with the insti-
tution at Chaillot, which will be mentioned in the
description of the envu-ons of Paris. It was for-
merly called " Les Petites Maisons,"* from the low-
ness of the buildings.
Strangen may visit this hospital every day.

Hospice des Incurables Femmes, Hospital for In-
curable Women.

[Rue de Sevres, No. 54.] D 5.

Cardinax RocHBPoircAULT founded this hospital
in 1637. Five hundred and ten aged women, lame,
palsied, or blind, are comfortably lodged, fed, and
clothed here.

Hospice des Incurables Hommes, Hospital for In-
curable Men.

[Rue dw Faubourg St, Martin, No. 166.] G 9.

This building was formerly a convent. In 1 790 it
was devoted to its present and better purpose. Four
hundred infirm old men find here a comfortable re-
treat. This house may be seen every day.

Hospice de Larochrfoucaud,
[Route d* Orleans, prh la Barriire ^Enfer.]

This establishment was founded in 1781, under the
name of Maison Roy ale de SanU, but it has since
been transformed into an asylum for those, who hay-
ing devoted their youth and strengUi to the poor in
the hospitals, are themselves obliged to seek assistance
in old age.
It may be visited on application to the porter.

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3SS HOSPITALS.

Infirmerie de Marie Therise.
[iVo. 86, i?tted'i?n/«\]

This small hospital was established by the Duchess
d*Angouleme, for the reception of sick and aged

Srieste, as well as other persons who have been re-
uced to poverty by the Revolution.

Etablissement en Faveur des Blessh Indigens.

Establishment for the Wounded Poor.

[Rue du PetU Muse, No, 9.] H 5.

M. DuMONT, a celebrated surgeon, had long gratui-
tously attended to the accidents of the poor. His
patients became so numerous, that his private fortune
was not sujQScient to supply them with the necessary
bandages and medicines. To enable him to continue
his benevolent undertaking, and to found this estab-
lishment, government allowed him 2000 fi*ancs per
annum, wmch is continued to his successors.

To this long list the following establishments must

be added : —

Hdpital du Nom de Jesus, near the church St. Lau-
rent, was instituted to receive the aged of both
sexes. It owes its foundation to Vincent de Paule.

HMtcd de VAbbaye St. Antoine, Of the Abbey of
St. Anthony. In the street of that name, receives
200 sick.

H&pital de Mont Rouge, Rue d'EnfSer.

Hipital de Vaccination Gratuite, Hospital of Gra-
tuitous Vaccination. Place de Gr^ve.

Hdpital des Teigneux, . Rue La Planch^^ Faubouig
St. Germain.

HSpitcd du Sud, otherwise Hospital of Si James,
near the Observatory.

H6pital de VhUriens, Champs des Capucins, Fau-
bourg St. Jacques. Has 650 beds, and relieves
annually about 2500 patients. .

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HOSPITALS. 337

Mcdson de Santi des Venhiens, Rue du Faubourg

St. Jacques.
Hdpited de la Roquette, Rue Roquette.
H(ipital Militaire, Rue du Faubourg St. Jacques.

Formerly called Val de Grace. The beautiful dome

of this ancient abbey has been already described,

pa^e 248.
Hospice de Vaccination Gratuite, Rue du Battoir

St. Andr6, No. 31.

Bureau central d Admission dans les H6pitaux,
Central Office of Admission into the Hospitals.

[Place du Parvis Notre Dame, No, 2.] F 5.

iDiPFKRKNT hospitals being appropriated for the
treatment of different diseases, a peculiar and very
proper regulation is adopted at Paris. All the poor
and sick, who have not experienced any sudden acci-
dent that requires immediate relief, are obliged to
present themselves before a committee, of physicians
assembled here, who ascertain the natiure of the
disease, and consign each to his proper hospitaL
The office is open from nine till four.

Bureau des Nourrices. Establishment for Niurses.
[Rue SL ApolUne, No, 18.] G 3.

Ladies, who are unable to nurse their own children,
may at all times find here nurses, in whom they can
place unlimited confidence. The health and morals
of these nurses jare scrupulously examined, and their
conduct diligently observed by agents of the Bureau,
from whom they receive their salary, and who are
responsible for their behaviour.

Infants may likewise be sent here to be nursed.

Young married women of good character easily gain

admission here for themselves and their infants, on

the condition that they will take the chai^ge of another

Digitized by Google

388 BOSPITiLLS.

child. They are comfortably lodged, and have a
sufficient gratuity. The ward presents a curious
and interesting spectacle. Every bed is placed be-
tween two cr^es, one for the ^leve, and the other
for the nurse's own child.

Pharmacie Centrcde des HSpitaux et Hospices.
[ Quai de la Taumelle,] G 5.

In this establishment are prepared all the drugs and
medicines which are afterwards distributed to the
various hospitals and prisons. The laboratories are
extensive and well arranged,

Maison Scipton. *
[Rtie Scipion, Faubourg St, MarceL] G 6.

This establishment is so called from an Italian gen-
tleman, named Scipion Sardini, who built an hotel
here in the time of Henry III. It is the general
bakehouse for all the hospitals, prisons, &c., of Paris,
and sends out annually more than seven million
pounds of bread. Strangers may visit it.

It is a remarkable circumstance, that, notwith-
standing this long hst of charitable institutions, and
the numerous public and gratuitous schools which
exist, the poor of Paris are more in number, and
more idle, than in any other city in Europe. This
arises from the ease with which relief is obtained,
without character and without exertion, and from the
means of dissipation which the poorest person always
finds in that gay metropolis.

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THB EOTAL CmyXESITY. 830

PUBLIC SCHOOLS.

Among the almost innumerable public Institutions
for the Education of Youth, the following princi-
pally deserve notice : —

XIniversiU Royale de France. Royal University of
France.

[RtM de r VmvernU, No. 15.] D 4.

The university is indebted for its origin to the illus-
trious Charlemagne. It was suppressed in 1792, but
afterwards re-established on a more extensive plan,
and has again been dissolved. The superiatendence
of the business of education throughout France is
now entrusted to the Royal Council of Public In^
struction. The office of Grand Master of the Uni-
versity was, however, re-established in 1822. No
school or place of instruction can be established
without their authority, and eveiy school is governed
by a rector.

The following are the various establishments for
education : — 1 . Faculties or Colleges. 2. Royal Col-
leges or Lyceums. 3. Institutions and Boarding
Scnools. 4. Charity Schools.

vThe Faculties are situated in the following
places: —

EacuUi de Theologie. College of Theology.
[A la Sorbonne.2 t 5.

Six professors are established '.here, who give lec-
tures on Logic, Ethics, Ecclesiastical History and
Church Discipline, Hebrew, the Study of the Scrip-
tures, and Pulpit Eloquence,

2G2

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340 THE StJRGIOAL SCHOOL.

Faculty de Droit. College of Law.
[Place de Genevihfc, No, 8.] F 5.

The Doric portal of this beautiful building, which
was erected by Soufflot, in 1771, has a majestic ap-
pearance. The interior is commodiously distributed
into numerous spacious halls,.where severi professors
statedly lecture, on the Roman Law, Civil Law, the
Practice of the Courts, and the Laws of Commerce.

Every student must regularly attend during two
years, to obtain the degree of Bachelor ; three years
for that of Licentiate ; and four for that of Doctor.
Regular disputations are held by the candidates, and
the examinations are said to be severe.

In consequence of the increasing number of pupils,
this College has been divided into two sections. One
is held here, and the other in the ancient church of
the Sorbonne, where convenient apartments have been
constructed by M. Vaudoyer.

FacuUc ou Ecole de Midecine et de Chirurgie.

Medical and Surgical School.

[Rue de V Ecole de M6decine, No. 14.] F 5.

This noble edifice was commenced during the reign of
Louis XV., and finished during that of his successor,
from designs by Gondouin. It consists of four build-
ings, enclosing a court 96 feet in breadth, and 66 iSect
in depth. Tlie fapadie towards the street presents a
peristyle of four rows of colossal Ionic piUars, sup-
porting an attic, which contains the library and the
cabinet of anatomy. (See Museums.) Above the
peristyle is a bas-relief, thirty-one feet in len^, in
which the government is represented, accompamed by
Minerva and Generosity, offering the plan of the Sur-
gical School to Hygeia, the goddess of Health, at-
tended by Vigilance and Prudence. The portico at
the end of the court consists of six Corinthian co-

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THS tCRGICAZ. SCHOOL. S41

Imnns, surmounted by a pediment, in which is a bas-
relief by Bemier, representing Theory and Practice.
Five medallions display the portraits of the famous
Petit, Marechal, Pitard, Lapeyronie, and Par6. The
paintings which decorate the interior, are from the
pencil of Gibehn, and the amphitheatre is capable of
containing 1,200 persons. The theatre is at the
bottom of the court. In the two wings are spacious
halls for demonstrations, and for the meetings of the
members of the college. The ornaments of some of
these are characteristic and well executed.

This is the first medical school in France, and pro-
bably in Europe. It has one peculiar advantage,
that not only the morbid and healthy anatomy of the
frame are demonstrated by dissections, not only the
most excellent lectures are delivered on the various
diseases to which the body is subject ; but an hospital
is attached to the institution, into which those who
labour under rare or peculiarly interesting diseases
are gratuitously received.

Lectures are delivered here, on anatomy and phy-
siology, on medical chemistry and pharmacy, on the
philosophy of medicine, on external and internal pa-
tholojoiy, on medical and natural history and botany,
on midwifery, on forensic medicine, and on the materia
medica and the use of instruments. Clinical lectures
are likewise given. There are fourteen professors.

A branch of this institution, but confined more to
the practice of physic than surgery, is in Rue de la
Bouoherie,

Another branch, confined principally to pharmacy,
is in Ruede TArbalete, No. 3. Lectures are delivered
here during thfe spring and summer, on botany, che-
mistry, and pharmacy. AH apothecaries, practising
in Paris and the departments, must obtain a diploma
from this school. The examinations are said to be
i«.p«tial.yet«ve«.

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34d TflX AOTAL C0l4UK».

7^ botanical garden is open every daiy^ except
Sunday and fSte days, from 10 to 4, and is worih
visiting.

Faculty des Lettres et Sciences. College of Letters
and the Scieiices.

[Ala SorbonneJl F 5.

The first division of this college boasts of some of
the most illustrious names in the republic of letters.
Lectures are delivered here, on Greek literatiure, on
Latin eloquence, on Latin poetry, on French elo-
quence and poetiy, on philosophy, on the histoiy of
philosophy, on ancient and modem history, and on
geography. There are eleven professors.

In the second division, lectures are given on al-
gebra, on natural philosophy, astronomy, mechanics,
chemistry, mineralogy, botaiiy, and zoology. There
are ten professors.

College Royal de France. Royal College of France.
[Place Cambray, No, 1.] F 5.

Francis I. established this seminary in 1531, but
the present building was erected by Louis XVI. in
1774, from designs by Chalgrin. Many students
are gratuitously educated here; and pubhc and
gratuitous lectures are daily delivered. This insti-
tution can boast of the erudite Ramus, the inde-
fEitigable Daubenton, the chemist Fourcroy, and
formerly of the poet Delille, among its i»o&ssars.
Some of the present professors, of v^hom there
are twenty-one, are mcewise eminent for their
talent. They lecture on astronomy* on geo-
metry, on physics, on experimental {>hilosopl^, on
anatomy, on chemistry, on national history, on the
law of nature and of nations, on history and ethies,
on Hebrew and Syiiac, on Chaldaic and Arabic, on

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THB KILITAttY gOHOOL. 843

Tiiridsh and Persian, on Greek, on Latin eloquence,
on poetry, and on French literature. The ceiling of
the hall is painted with allegorical figures in honour
of royalty.

Ecole Militaire, The Military School.
[Opposite the Champ de Mars."} C 5.
This building occupies a vast space near the Inva-
lids, in the plain or Grenelle. Its principal entrance
towards the city is on the place de Fbntenoy. The
grand facade is opposite to the Champ de Mars and
tiie bridge of Jena or Invalids. It was erected in
1751, by Louis XV., under the superintendence of
the architect Gabriel.

Two courts, the first of which is 420 feet square,
and the second 270 feet, and surrounded by an
arcade, supported by clustered Doric columns, con-
duct to the principal firont towards the place de
Fontenoy, In the centre a projecting budding of
the Cormthian order presents itself, with eight co-
liunns sustaining an entablature. The p^iments
were formerly adorned with paintings in imitation of
fresco, by M. Gibelin, but these no longer exist.

The fa9ade towards the Champ de Mars has like-
wise a projecting building in the centre, composed of
Corinthian columns, surmounted by an entablature
decorated with bas-reliefs, and accompanied by
pedestals supporting trophies of arms and statues.
The dcHne has a large and curious sun-dial. The
figures of Time and Astronomy at the base have been
much admired. In the council-chamber are four
paintings representing, the battles of Fontenoy and
Laufelt, and the sieges of Toumay and Fribourg.
Three paintings hang over the portal, rcTOresenting
the sieges of Menin, Ypres, and Fumes. The other
parts of the edifice and the gardens are in a very
simple and pleasing style.

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344 TBI rohfrmmHto senooh.

Tb€ obsenratory attached to the Whitaj School
was erected by the celebrated Lalande. There is
also a very simple madbine for supplying^ the estab-
lishment with water.

This institution was originally appropriated to the
instruction of young men of good family, who were
either possessed of small fortune, or whose fathers
had fallen in the service of their coimtry. It was
afterwards used as barracks for the Impenal Guards
but has reverted to its original design.

Permission to visit the Ecole Militaire men/ be oh^
tained on application by letter to the Governor,

Ecole Roy ale Polytechnique, Royal Polytechnic
School.

[Rue de la Moniagne, St, Geneviive, iVb. 55.] F 5.

This school, which was fouiteied in 1796, and re-or-
ganized in 1816, holds the most distinguished rank
among the estabhshraents of Paris. It is intended
to complete the education of the students who have
rendered themselves conspicuous in other institutions^
and particularly to form them for the artillery, or to '
train them up as engineers. No officer is admitted
into the artillery who has not been educated in the
Pohrtechnic School.

Tlxe most distinguished masters in every branch
of science are em^oyed by the government. Every
year a certain number of scholars are admitted, after
undergoinjg the most rigorous examination in the
classics, the mathematics, mechanics, Imd drawing.

The niunber of pupils amounts to 300. iW
usual course of study is two years, but in particular
cases is ext^ed to three. 'Die school possesses an
excellent philosophical and chemical apparatus, aaai
a well- selected library, containing 24,000 volumes.
Government pays all the ej^enses of instruction, and

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SOHOOX. OF THB FIKB ARTS. S45

1060 francs per annum are required from every pupil
for his board and lodging.

Strangers cannot visit this school without per-
missionjrom the Sub-Governor, who resides there,

Ecole Specials des Beaux Arts. School of the
Fine Arts.
I At the Palace of the Fine Arts.J F 4.
This school is formed of the ancient royal acade-
mies of painting, sculpture, and architecture. It
consists of two divisions. The first is the school
of painting and sculpture, in which lessons are given
by twelve professors and eight assistants. Lectures
are likewise deUvered daily on anatomical expression,
and on perspective. Medals are given every three
months tor the best model, and valuable prizes every
year for the best painting.

The second division is the school of architecture,
in which lectures are delivered on the principle of
the art every Saturday, at; one o'clock ; on the ma-
thematics every Wednesday and Friday, at eleven;
and on the actual construction of buildings, every
Wednesday and Friday, at six o'clock in the evening.
Medals are distributed in this school every month.
There are three professors.

Ecole Royale des Fonts et Chaussees, Royal School
of Bridges and Roads.

[Rue Culture Ste. Catherine^ No, 27.] G 4.
Eighty pupils, selected from the Polytechnic
School, are here taught every branch of science
connected with the construction of bridges, canals,
harbours, roads, and public edifices. The museum
contains a noble collection of plans, charts, and
models.

Strangers cannot see this school without an order
from the Director,

Digitized by Google

840 THS SCHOOL Oy tf IKSKALOOT.

Eeole Royale Gratuite de Dessin, Royal Free''
School of Drawing.
[ Rue de VEcole de Midecine, No. 5.] F 5.
This unique but useful establishment was founded
b}r M. Bachelier, in 1767. Its purpose is to diffuse
scientific principles among the lower classes of me- •
chanics. Fifteen himdr^ persons often assemble
here. Medals are distributed every month, and
prizes every year. Instructions are given eveiy
Monday and Thursday on practical geometry, arith-
metic, admeasurement, and architecture; every
Tuesday and Friday on the proportions of the hu-
man figure and of animals ; and every Wednesday
and Saturday on ornamental architecture.

No Strfzngers are allowed to visit this establish*
ment,

Ecole Speciale et Graiuite de Dessin pour les Jeunes
Personnes, Special and Free School for teaching
Young Women to Draw.
[Rue de Tovraine, No. 7, Faubourg St, Germain,} P5.
The very establishment of this institution, although
benevolent and judicious, has a French charactS*.
Young women, designed for mechanical professions,
are gratuitously taught, three times a week, to
draw figures, birds, animals, and every species of
ornament. There is an annual exhibition of the
best performances, and medals are distributed to the
deserving.

Ecole Royale des Mines. Koyal School of Mine*
ralogy.
[ Rue «r Enfevy No, 34.] P 4.
The invaluable collection of minerals which this
school contains, will be described hereafter. Eighteen
pupils are admitted, and instructed in every art.
-connected with metallurgy and the working of mines

BOOLE KORMltC. 847

Ecole Royale VHerincdre, The Royal Veterinary
School.

This excellent institution is situated at the Tillage
of Alfort, two leagues from Paris. It was founded
by Bourgekt, in 1766, and has since been peculiarly
and deservedly fostered by government. Every de-
partment may send three pupils, and every regiment
of cavalry one, who are boarded and instructed at
the expense of government ; but numerous pupils
are sent to tiie college at the expense of their
friends.

This institution is the noblest of the kind in
Europe, and is conducted on principles which tend
more to the ipiprovement of the art than the emolu-
ment of the professors. Lectures are delivered, by
seven of the most eminent teachers, on the anatomy
and physiology of every domestic animal, the treat-
ment of their diseases, and their management in
the field and the stable; natural history, botany,
pharmaceutical chemistry, the materia medica, the
operations of the forge, veterinary jurisprudence,
and the theory and practice of rural economy. A
residence of ^y^ years is required befwe the student
is authorised to practice as a veterinary surgeon.
. The school contains a most valuable cabinet of
natural history and comparative anatomy, admittance
to which may be easily obtained by the stranger.
This establishment also possesses an excellent bo-
tanic garden, a chemical and philosophical labora-
tory, extensive hospitals for sick animals, a farm for
experimental agriculture, and an an^Mtheatre for
the delivery of lectures.

Ecole Normale.

[Rue det Po$te$»'\

This singular and useful establishment had for its

>d by Google

a48 INSTITUTION VOR TMM BLIND.

object to train up prop^ persons as prc^ssors in
the different colleges^ and instructors in the various
seminaries of France. It was suppressed by royal
ard&c m 1822.

Maison Royale des Orphdines de la Ligion (tHon-
near. Royal Establishment for the Ophan Daugh-
ters of the Members of the Legion of Honour.

l^Mue Barheile, No. 2.] G 4.

Thubb hundred orphan daughters of the officers of
the Legion of Honour are here educated by nuns.

Institution Royale des Jeunes Aveu^les, Royal
Listitution for the Young Bhnd.

iRue St. Fictor, No. 68.] G 5.

It is to the indefatigable toils and the warm philan-
thropy of Monsieur Haiiy that this very useful cha-
rity owes its foundation ; and it is also indebted to
the humanity of the govermnent for its increased
state of prosperity. By this meritorious establish-
ment, 60 blind boys and 30 girls are not only ren-
dered happy in themselves and useful to society, but
are taught to execute many ingenious works with an
accuracy and delicacy which the clearest-sighted
persons can rarely excel. Some are excellent mu-
sicians, others arithmeticians ; others are printers,
glove-makers, weavers ; in short there is no emi^oy-
ment beyond the scope of their attainment. They
are also instructed in reading, geography, and ci-
phering; and they have performed a well- written
comedy in verse, the production of one of their blind
companions, of the name of Avisse, who died in the
tend year of the French Revolution, and whose
works are printed and published at Paris. The di-
rected: of this institution takes in^te pleasure in

Digitized by Google

SCHOOXi FOR THS 9BAF AND DUMB* 349

(li^laymg to the curious all the interesting produc-
tions of lus pupils, and through his means a hbrary
has been procured ior their use.

A public examination takes place every month,
and presents to the man of feeling and humanity
one of the most interesting spectctcles that the
imagination can conceive* Tickets of admission
may be procured from the director of the institu-
tion, and unll not be refused to any stranger* Ad-
mission to see the institution may be procured
daily ^ except on Sundays and Thursdays, by ap-
plication to the porter.

Hdpital Roy ale des Aveugles, ou de Quinze Vingts,

Royal Hospital for the Blind, or Quinze Vingts.

[Rue de Charenton, No, S8.] H 5.

This hospital was founded m 1220, by St. Louis, for
the reception of 300 blind, who, according to the
manner of coimting at that period, were termed
Quinze Vingts, At present it contains 420 blind
pa*sons, 300 of whom are grown up, and 120 young.
None but those absolutely blind and indigent are
admitted. They are provided with every thing that
can contribute to tlieir comfort and instruction.

Strangers are admitted to see the establishment
every day.

Institution Royale des Sourds-Muets, Royal Insti-
tution for the Deaf and Dumb.
[Rue du Faubourg St. Jacques, No, 254. ] F 6.

To the Abb6 de I'Epfie humanity is indebted for this
noble institution. By methods as simple as ingeni-
ous, he has enabled those who were oom deat and
dumb, not only to read and to write, but to under-
stand the most complicated rules of grammar and
the mathematics, and even to comprehend the ab-
stract ideas of metaphysics. During twenty year*-
9H

>d by Google

850 coLLSGSiy &a

he devoted himself to this benevolent pursuit ffig
time, his health, his fortune, were expended. The
most complete success at length attended his la-
bours. His benevolence and his constancy were
rewarded by the patronage of government; and,
placed at the head of this institution, a wider field of
usefulness was before him.

Ninety children are now admitted, and 500 francs
per annum allowed for the maintenance and comfort
of each child. To obtain admittance, the young
person must not be less than twelve years of age, or
more than sixteen. The certificate of a surgeon
must attest that the candidate is actually deaf and
dumb, and that the parents are unable to defray the
expense of his education. Children of more opulent
persons are admitted into this institution at a stipend
of 900 francs for every boy, and 800 for every girl.
The children remain in the institution five years, and
are instructed in reading, writing, arithmetic, claw-
ing, and some trade.

At the decease of de TEp^e, in 1789, the Abb6
Sicard, his pupil, succeeded him as instructor, and
continued to direct the institution till removed by
death in May, 1822. The Abb6 Gandelin was ap-
pointed his successor. The females are under the
care of a lady.

It is open to public inspection every Thursday ^
from eleven to one o'clock. A public examination
takes place on the 30th of each month, at ten o'clock^
when, it is presumed, tJmt no traveller of sensibility
mil omit to attend. Tickets of admission may he
obtained from the director of the institution, or
by writing the name and address a few days b^ore
in a book at the porter's lodge.

Collies or Lyceums,
Therb are five Royal colkges or public mikoah^

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OOLLBttltt 6c. 351

which the pupils enjoy a complete course of coUe-*
giate education.

College Louis le Grande Rue St. Jacques, No. 125,
former^ the principal college of the University. The
librajry contains 30,000 volumes.

Comge Henry IV., afterwards Napoleon, in the
old convent of St. Genevieve, Place St. Genevieve.

The above receive boarders who pay 1000 £rancs
annually, but the foUowmg are only for day-
boarders.

Collie de Bourbon, Rue de Ste. Croix, Chauss^e
d'Antin, a chaste and elegant edifice erected by
Brongniart in 1781. This establishment was origi-*
Bally called Lyc6e Bonaparte.

ColUge de Charlemagne, Rue St. Antoine, No,
120, formerly belonging to the Jesuits.

College St, Louis, Rue de la Harpe, called before
the Revolution, College d'Harcourt.

A yearly meeting of the scholars of all the col-
leges is hdd, when numerous prizes are awarded by
the Royal Council of Pubhc Instruction.

Two private institutions have been raised to the
rank of Royal Colleges, that of Stanislas, Rue
Notre Dame des Champs, No. 82, and that of the an-
^nt sdaolars of Ste. Barbe, Rue des Postes, No. 34.

College Britannique, British College.
[Rue du Cheval Vert, No, S.]
This establishment unites the three ancient colleges
denominated English, Irish, and Scotch. It was
fbunded by Louis XVIII. for the education of Bri-
tish Cathohcs who wish to pursue tiieir studies in
France.

Seminaire de St. Sulpice,

[Place St. Sulpice,] £ 5.

This semioair was origiQally founded in 1641, but

Digitized by Google

359 SCHOOLS.

was suppressed during the Rerolulion. It was,
however, re-established in 1802, and now occupies
a noble building commenced in 1820. The firont is
three stories in height, and 200 feet in length. The
seminary is under the direction of the prints x)f St.
Sulpice, and has a dq>endency at Issy. The two
estiD^Ushments contain 300 pupus.

Strangers may visit the seminofjf on obtaining
permission from Monsieur le StqtMeur GinHvl.

Seminaire du St, Esprit.
[No. 34, Rue des Posies.] F 6.
Is an establishment for the instruction of Mission-
aries to the Colonies. Over the pediment of the
church is a good bas-relief.

Strangers may visit the establishment by applying
to the Supirieur,

ColUge ou Seminaire des Ecossais.

[Rue des FossSs St Victor,] G 5.

The chapel of this coU^ is worthy of notice as it
contains a monument in honour of James II. of Eng-
land, an inscription on his daughter Louisa-Maria,
and the heart of Mary Gordon, duchess of Perth.

The house is now occupied by a school, the master
of which, however, allows strangers to visit it

Ecole SpcdcUe de Commerce,
[Hotel de Sully, Rue St. Antoine, No. 148.] G 4.
This school was founded in 1818, under the patron-
age of M. Lafitte, for the purpose of instructing
young men in commercial law, and in general busi-
ness.

Ecole des Chartres.
[ Rue Neuoe des PetUs Champs, No. 12.] •
This institution was founded by Louis XVIII^ §x

Digitized by Google

soxooLt. B6B

tor stiidycrf ancient MS8» The pupflg «fe initructed
haw to decipher and understand ancient chart&cn,

Ecoles Primaires, Charity Schools.

Paris contains eighty schools, in which about ten
thousand children are instructed in reading, writing,
arithmetic, and the first jwinciples of religion. The
bovs are superintended by the FrWe9 de la Doctrine
CnretimMt ' ^^' the g^ls by the S(miTa de la
ChariU.

There are also 54 schools on the Lancasterian
plan, in which 560 children are educated.

Ecoles ct Equitation,

The best riding school is that conducted by M.
Franconi, of the Olympic Circus, Rue du Faubourg
du Temple. There is another school. Rue St. Ho-
nor6. No. 359 ; and a third. No. 19, Rue Cadet,
Faubourg Montmartre. The charge to gentlemen,
for eachlesson, is three firancs, but ladies pay five
francs.

AcadSmiee d'Armm, Fenchig Academies.
The most celebrated professors of fencing are M.
.L.ebrun, No. 21, Rue Poissoni^re ; and M. Coulon,
Rue du Helder, No. 11, vis-ii-vis les Bains Chinois.
M. Begot, formerly an officer of the Imperial
Guard, Rue du Cadran, also instructs persons in this
elegant a(K;omplishment«

Eeok Royale, ou Coneervaioire de MuHque,
Royal School, or Conservatory of Music.

iRue du Faubourg Toissonnihre, No. 1 1 ; and Rue Ber-
g^re, No. 2.] F 2.

The design of this establishment is to cultivate a
taste for music, and to produce a succession of per-
ll»nnebi for tha church, tiw amay, Msd tha theatre.

2 H 8

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354 PRIVATB SOfiOOLS.

It usually contains 400 pupils, who pireviously tm-
dei^ a strict examinatioli into the progress wMdi^
they have made, and the hope whicn mey give of
future excellence. Lectures are delivered on the
theory and practice of music, and on its connexion
with the sciences. The distribution of the annual
prizes is preceded by a concert, in which the most
eminent performers assist

Attached to this institution is a school for decla^
mation, in which the celebrated Talma did not dis-
dain to appear as one of the teachers.

That portion of the building which faces the Rue
Richet IS appropriated to the preparation of tbe
court fStes and ceremonies. ^

Ecole de Mosaique. Mosaic School.
IRue de I* Ecole de Midecine, aux Cordeliert, No. 11.]

F5.
Thb pupils at this school are instructed in the art
of copying paintings in mosaic. The expenses o£
the estebhshment were formerly defrayed by the
government.

A public exhibition of this species of art takes
place every Saturday j from twelve to four^ and is
well worthy the attention of the curious.

PRIVATE SCHOOLS.

There are in Paris about 40 institutions or boarding
schools for young gentlemen, and numerous esta-
blishments for the ^ucation of young ladies. We
shall mention a few of the principaL

College de St. Barbe.

[Rue de Rheims, No. 7.] F 5.

This is the laigest private eatfiblisbmeot in Vaa\s, itad

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I^RIVATB SCHOOLS. 365

piobably in France. The univeraally acknowledged
talent and parental care of the masters bave^ during*
some years, attracted no less than 500 scholars. The
terms for board and education are 650 francs a year for
children of ten years of age and under; 760 francs be-
tween ten and twelve; and 870 francs for those above
that age. Besides this, 50 francs a year are charged for
washing, 40 francs for medical attendance^ and 60 franctf
for stationery.

Institution de tUniversite,
[Rue des Minimes, No. 1 0, Quartier du Maraii,}
Thu establishment is under the direction of M. Massing
and is situated near the Royal College of Charlemagne.
The terms are 850 francs per year for ^ildren under
thirteen, and 1000 francs for those above that age. Be-^
sides this, 100 francs are charged for washing, station-
ery, &c.

PROTESTANT INSTITUTION

FOR THE EDUCATION OP YOUNG LADIES.

Hotel Montmorency, Rue du Mont Pamasse, No, ft.
Faubourg St, Germain, near the Garden of the Lux-
embourg.
This institution is intended to unite the advantages of
the literary instruction of England and France, with the
preservation df national habits, and the guarantees of
moral and religious education. It has been conducted
for twenty years by Madame Servier, who has entered
into partnership with Mrs. Warner,' late of Peckham^
a lady of respectable connexions, extensive acquirements^
and accomplished manners. Thus the French pupils
will have an opportunity of learning the English lan-
guage as correctly as if they were in England, while
the English pupils will be obliged to speak the French
language constantly, as well as to compose it with accu-
racy and elegance, and at the same time be able to
continue their English education.

The young ladies have opportunities of attending
divine* service, both in French and English, on the Sua-

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859 mniKinai.

dKj, afid are eipected to be present av&f day at fMnily
froTthip.

Terum, forty flve pounds per annaniy including taiiion
in Reading, Writing, Arithmetic, Grammar, Needle and
Fancy Works, to which are added instructioDs in French
Literature, History, Geography, Mythology, and Recita^
tion.—This sum likewise comprises the washing of all
plain articles of dress, gratuities to servants, repair of
linen, and use of a library.

Extras — Harp, ten shillings per lesson; Singing,
five shillings per lesson ; Piano, one pound per month ;
Daubing, ten ahillings per month; Drawing, thirteen
joinings per month ; Italian, thirteen shillings per month;
On tb^ terms the young ladies are attended by the
most emioen^professors, but the junior pupils are in-
•tructed by the ladies of the establishment for the fol*
lowing sums per month : — Piano, ten shillings ; Drawings
seven shillings and sixpence; Singing, ten slxilUngs;
Italian, seven shillings.

Ladies who wish for private rooms pay sixty pounds
per annum. In all cases a quarterns payment is expected
in advance.

MjiDAMB ViNOEMT, also, has a highly respectable
seminaiy for young ladies, which is situated at No, 40,
Rue Si, Louis, au Marais, and has been established
naany years.

Madamb Duk at has an excellent sstablishment foe
the education of young ladies. It is situated Rtite Si^
Domimque, No. 9, au Gros Caillou, and has a large
garden. Madame D. is assisted by an English Protestant
lady^ who superintends the religious instruction of the
pupils.

MUSEUMS.

Jardin Roy ale des Plantes; ou Jardin du Rot.

The Royal Garden of Plants ; or King's Garden*

[Rue St. Victor, and Quai St, Bernard.} G 6.

This garden was founded by Jean de la Brosse,

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THE ROYAL OARDEK. 857

physician to Louis XIII., but it is indebted for its
present beauty and value to the assiduous labours of
Buffon. The name " Jardin Royal des Plantes,"
ill expresses the real nature and interest of the place.
In addition to a noble botanic garden, it contains a
large menagerie, a museum of natural history and
anatomy, and numerous halls in which public lec-
tures are delivered on every branch of natural his-
tory and philosophy. Each of these divisions will
afford inexhaustible amusement and information.

Strangers who enter the garden from the Rue St,
Victor, must take the first turning to the left, and
pass b^ the hot-houses to the office of administration,
which is situated to the left. Here tiftets may be
procured on personal application, as wdl as lists of
the lectures.

At the entrance of the botanic garden, several
square enclosures are observed, more int^-esting
probably to the agriculturist than to the casu^
visiter. The first contains a curious collection of
every different soil and manure, exhibitiii^ in an
instructive manner their comparative fertihty and
value.

The second enclosure is occupied by specimens
of every kind of fence, hedge, ditch, and ha-ha.
It likewise exhibits the different methods of training
espalier fruits, evergreens, &c., of every descriijtion.

Beyond these are specimens of all the culinary
vegetables, and of every plant that has been appro-
priated to the food of man, with the most approved
and successful mode of training each.

In the next enclosure are specimens, systematically
arranged, of all the fruit-trees, with their numerous
varieties, of which France or tiie neighbouring king-
doms can boast.

The visiter then arrives at the botanic garden. - It
consists of more than seven thousand plants ar-

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Sfit THB mOTAL GARVEir.

nm^ ftccording to fhe ^stem of Jufisieu. Every
specimen is labelled ; the beds ore diyi^d by little
hedges of box ; and a pleasing admixture of shmbs
axid small plants removes the appearance of formality
which usually accompanies botanic gardens. A piece
of water, supplied from the Seine, is appropnated
to the aquatic plants.

The green and hot-houses will next attract at-
tention. Ihey are more 'than six hundred feet in
lengtii; and although their exterior presents no*
thmg elegant, with the exception, perhaps, of the
principal green-house, whose front is prettily oma*
menteid with marble vases, the beautifhl collection
of flowers aftd shrubs within cannot fail to please
not only the botanist, but the unlearned visiter.
Every plant is here Ukewise labelled ; the labels ar^
placed m the most coni^cuous situation, and changed
as soon as they cease to be perfectly legible. The
botanical student will here find some rare and unique
specimens, the sugar-cane and the bread-tree.

As the traveUer passes by the amphitheatre, be
will see several of the more valuable trees and shrubs
ranged before it. He will particularly notice the
date-palm, and two other rare species, near the gate.

Proceeding onwards, a path winds up an artincial
aifeent, on the summit of which is a temple supported
by eight pilasters, and surmounted by an annillaiy
sphere. The mater part of Paris is nere presented
to the view. A person is usually in attendance, who
i^ill explain to the stranger the different edifices
which he sees around him. The garden is concealed
by the surrounding foliage. Hal£way down the hill
is the cedar of Lebanon, planted more than eighty

J rears ago by De Jussieu. Although its head was
opped off in one of the strangely barbarous periods
of the Revolution, it is yet a noble object. Near it
is a marble pedestal supporting a bust of Lkmaeus,

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wl^ch has been recentlv restored, for this, too, pe-
rished amidst the wreck of science and virtue. In
every other respect the garden and plants escaped
the ravages of that Vandal era.

Here also may be seen the tomb of Daubentcm the
naturalist.

On the second occupation of Paris by the AlHes,
the Prussians solicited that they might bivouack in
this garden. Had they accomplished their purpose,
every interesting object wouW have been trodden
unda* foot. The spirited remonstrances of the cele-
Inrated traveller, Humboldt, preserved the place from
total destruction.

The tourist may here pause, and prepare himself
-for an investigation of the remaining treasures of the
garden ; for at the foot of this hill are several little
casernes, at which he may be supplied with fruit,
eggs, milk, cofPee, and tea.

The menagerie will probably be next visited. The
traveller retmtis to the enclosures near the entrance,
and, following a path on tiie right hand, arrives at
the dens in which are confined the fiercer beasts of
prey. Several lions, tigers, panthers, hyenas, and
wolves, amuse or temfy the spectators by their
howlings. A succession of wooden fences extends
hence to the Cabinet of Anatomy. They are ar-
ranged with considerable taste, and many of them
afford a veiy instructive lesson in zoology and bo-
tany. Where it could be accomplished, the trees
ana shrubs of the animals* native climes, or the
vegetables in which thev most delight, flourish
within their enclosures, several bears inhabit some
sunken enclosures. Two camels are perfectly do-
mesticated, and more than earn their subsistence by-
turning the wheel of the maclune which supplies the
gardens with water. The varieties of antelopes,
deer, and sheep, are numerous.

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360 MUSEUH OF NATUKAL. UIBTOM'

The aviary contains a collection oC every -^^ird
known in France and the neighbouring kingdoms,
arranged according to their species and habits, but
does not boast of many rare specimens. The phea-
sants and monkeys may be seen on application at
the Bureau.

Having satisfied himself with the view of almost
every living production of the animal or the vegetable
kingdom, the traveller will probably postpone his
visit to ttie superb Cabinet of Natural History imtil
another opportunity ; for it would be doing injustice
to tlds invaluable museum to hurry over its contents
in one or in many days.

The Cabinet or Museum of JMatural History is at
the end of the garden. The building is more than
600 feet in length, and its external architecture is
simple and plain.

The library is first visited ; and although many of
its richest treasures have been restored to their pro-
per owners, it contains almost every publication in
every language on the subject of natural history.
To tnis subject it is limited. The manuscript figures
of Aldrovandi, and the Hortus-siccus of Mailer, are
no longer to be seen ; but the herbals of almost
every celebrated French botanist are open to inspec-
tion. At the entrance is a statue of Buffon, wita ks
well-known vain-glorious and profane inscription.

Five halls are occupied by an immense coUectien
of mineitLls. The first room contains the earths and
stones. They are arranged accwding to the classi-
fication of Haiiy, and mostly by his own hand. Mai^y
of the calcareous spars, tne gems, and the quartz
crystals, are very l?eautiful. The collection appears
to be complete, but fiimilar spedmens are rather tQo
much multiplied.

In the second hall aro the ores, and they presjent
a most superb display.

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VUSBC7X 0» KATmtAIi filffTOST. 86 1

The third apartment affords specimens of th^
primary and secondary rocks, with every variety of
French marble.

In the fourth is an assemblage of peculiar interest.
It is composed of the animal remains of the antedilu-
vian world. The bones of the mammoth are perfect,
and strike the beholder witii astonishment The
skeletons of numerous animals, now unknown or
extinct, are exhibited here. Cuyier arranged the
innumerable specimens of this divi^on.

All parts of the world have contributed to this
collection. Among other wonders, are the fragments
of an elephant's tusk, which, when complete, must
have b^en at least e^t feet in length. Several cases
are filled with the bones of the Sib^an mammoth, or
elephant, the American mammoth, or mastodon.
Tl^« is a specimen of the hair of ^e mammoth
winch was found in 1805, preserved in a block of ice
on the shore of the Icy Sea, in the countiy of the
Tonguses in Siberia ^ when extricated, the dogs de-
voured its ilesh, which must have remained in a state
of complete preservation for a long period. Afber
the bones of rhinoceroses, hippq)otami, and tapirs,
come those discovered by Cuvier in the plaster-
quarries of Montmartre, and of which he has con«
stituted several new genera of extinct quadrupeds.

In the next apartment is a more pleasingcoUection
of a similar nature, comprising the vegetable remains
t>f former times, and particularly tiie impressions of
ferns, leaves, and plants, procuried from coal-mines»
and establishing Uie vegetable origin or connexion of
tins fossil. A part of this haU is occupied by nume*
rous specimens of volcanic productions, principally
from Ncq^es, Sicily^ and the Lipari iskmds.

Two other apartments on this floor belong to the
museum of Zoology, and contain the r^tiles and the
Ml tribes. The jlatter, as ii^ nmt cabii^sof na*

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fit Mfnmm ot NAftmAii nffomv^

taral hirtmy, are not in the luest st^ite el i^ttSHsr^
yation.

The long gallery on the second floor is oocupiej
by qua<lrup^ azul lurds, gen^praUy presaryed id a
most admiralde manner. The colieetion is said to ha
complete ; and the only fault that can be suggested
is, that, as in the minerals, the specimens are rnvd^^
plied too mu(^. Some of the animals and a few i^
the birds are unique. They were introduced to tbtt
knowledge of Europeans, by Toumefort, Vaillaot,
and other travellers.

Few animals are wanting in the series of qua^u*
peds and birds. Of monkeys alone there are at l^aat
two himdred specimens, and c^ten more of a sim^i^
funity x>f birds, as of the genera Nakimlla and ZEh*
nagra, — ^To mention hare a few of the leading oUetfts
wmild be to |o far into the field of Zoology. Tim^
ore the eamdeopard brou^t from Africa by Yaillaiit^
the bison, the lama, and the vicuna ol Paru, an enor«
mous whale (the squalus maximus), taken on t^e
coast of France, Roman cattle, ^Iks, dix)m6dairie8, 89a
Mai^ spechnena were presented by the late Empresf
Josephine. There is a regular aigran^ment of ttie
whole, which adds eensiderabiy to their inta^st mA
value. In different parts of the gallery api^ear bu^
of Toumefcni, Limiaus, Adamson, DaWieiiton, and
Foureroy. Ilie only paintmgs ane two-Hi lion tear-
ing a goi^, KhA an ea^ pouncang on a lamk x

The insects principally ooetmy lai^ge cases in tka
centre of the galleiy, wliore is fikewigea pleasing am
rangement of the eggs and nests of Biost i^eeies of
birds, and a beautiful assortment of eoriJs, and: o&or
marine productions.

There is here a great want of room* and many
objects are too low to be seen with wiy adrantage.
Among the insects, after the spten^ papiOios ai«
^aaeeaait^^adl tiM spiii]axeMiiay:be seea a

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eilhe siBe-worai^ inth fhe eooo<ms» and thd cater-

EB, formed of wax> go as exactly to resemble the
animals. Near them are the gall-nuts, and
3 pieroed or formed 1:^ insects. Additions, il^
lustrating the history and habits of the insect, are
often i^roenred ; thus the ennning fomUm leo^ or
lion-ant, is placed at the bottcHn of its sandy pit,
down the ^des of which insects are crawling, im^
omiscious of thdr danger.

When the restitution of the treasures plundered
ftora neighbouring countries was determined on, it
was rumoured that ^e Allies would not only recli^
what had cmginallv belonged to them, but complete
their cabinets at me expense of what reaUy apper-
tained to France. An amicable arrangement, how-
ever, took place, creditable to every party. Nu-
merous minerals, and many zoological specimens^
had been taken from the Austrian dominions in
Italy. When a dut^oate existed in the museum of
tiie garden» the <mginal article was restored; but
lichen the restoration of the ^urMned mineral would
fender the French collection incomplete, another
specimen of equal value» and of which the Austrian
Mbinets were not already possessed, was substituted,
llie Dutch collection, and especialfy of minerals,
bad materially enriched the French museum. If it
had been restored in its original state, the museum of
the Garden of Plants would have been rendered
Mdly imperfect A firien^ and equitable arrange-
ment was here likewise eflfeeted. The greater part
itf the purlcHned articles were^ left untouched, and a
©(Section was formed out of the jnrivate store of the
duplicates of the museum, more valuable than the
original articles could possibly have been. It is said
that 260 quadrupeds,- 800 birds, 338 reptiles, 800
fishes, and 400 shells, were given to the Dutch, not
one of which were drawn from the puWic cabinet.

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3M mttiPM o9 HxgnjJtA&snro&B.

The traveller now proceeds to the ddnndt <^ Coia*
parative Anatomy, originally founded by Baubenton,
and newly arranged and much increased by Cuvier.
It {n-ofesses to contain, <»- will ultimately contain, a
skeleton of every known animal, with a complete set
of the .bones of each separated, that th^ may be
more easdly compared with those of other species.
This museum is tnily:valuable, jret probably not
much superior to the private collection of an eminent
surgfeon m the British metropolis (Mr. Brookes), if
he kad.mcnre room sci^itifically and tastefully to ar«
rai^ his numierous and well-prepared specimens.

On passing through the rocnns where Cuvier con-
tinues 1^ labours, the walls are covered, as in all
French cabinets, with wooden and pasteboard boxes,
in which he assorts and names the oones whK^h he is
constantly receiving. On tjie tables are the prepa*
rations on which he is immediately employed.

In the first of the public rooms are the mummies
and skeletons of the human species. Amon^ the least
pleasing sights^ an Egyptian mummy, disengaged
from its coffin and wrappers, is dry, dark andbrown^
and with the thighs and arms almost exhausted d
^esh. There are male and female mummies of th^
Ouanches, the ancient inhabitants of Teneriffe, white
and distorted. A mummy of the ancient Gaula is
marked as having been found near Riom.

Among the Skeletons is that of the Hottentot
Venus, and that of the assassin of General Klebe^
who held for a short time the chief command of the
French army in Egypt. An exteaisive series of hit-
man bones illustrates the diseases to which they are
subject. The skeletons which follow and crowd the
apartments are all clean, and comprehend thegreaier
number of quadrupeds. Those of the elephant and
the rhinoceros present quarries of bones ; and a tall
man may walk under the belly of the cameleopard

Digitized by Google

m^^nt Ifobpiiig. We see here, idiat combinationi
md forms of bones nature has emjdoyed to unite
«trength with activity in the tiffer and the Hon, or
impart sMriitness to the horse and the antelope. The
skeletons of l»rds are not so niuiieroas as tiiose of the
'qtmdrupedsi thwe are many of ttie amphibia, and
iwie of a <nt)oodile ; there are also many sleeletons of
fii^ear.

• The wax preparations of fishes and shell-fish fol-
low, constructed with the nicest art, and displaying
thfe triie colours and position of animals which it is
knpossMe to preserve. The anatomy of the Chiton,
fbr feitample, is fine. Sntdls in wax are attached to
real^hdls, and caterpillars to leaves andbitmches of
trees. In one ease the anatomy of an egg is dis-
played in 24 |»«parations, fttym the appearance of
tiie first speck of life, to the (Aadcett burs^g fk-om
its shell.

In the last rocmi are the fiBH and monsters. The
wax preparations here are of the greatest beauty, and
on alarge scale ; they embrace aU parts of the human
systebi) so that one may form ideas ofaftatojwjr, with-
out the disgust that Attends fissections. The most
elegant additions are present r a child reclines oh a
silken couch, a lady and child are placed on an pma-
Inented noH, so as to give this science all the attrac-
tions of wMdi it is perhaps suscepttt>le.
' *£o this succeeds .a cabinet of Human Anatomy,
resen^ling other cabinets of this nature, but probi^
bly uneq\mlled in liie number of ibe speoimens, tbe
slnlftilness of thdr preparation, and the beauty^ of
tiie wax models.

The annual expense of tWs extraordinary esta-
blishment is ufiwards of £* 1^,000, and more than dlie
hundred and sixty persons are constantly employed
here. . ^«.

-2%ril6««o» and me Librcfty ore cpen to the

»I8

>d by Google

^$S CABINET OP MIKXEAJLOOT.

pt0bHc, general^, on Tue»4aiy and FHekt^i firm
three o'clock until six An summer ^ and uni^ dcirk in
winter; but foreigners, on producing their pass-
ports, are likewise admitted on^ MonSays, W^dnes^
days, and Saturdays, fiom eleven to two.

The Garden is open to the public every day, and
the menagerie may be seen every day from eleven
till six in the summer, and till three in the winter,

A catalogue may be purchased at a stall near the
Museum.

Public lectures are delivered in the Amphitheatre
on every subject connected with this splendid insti-
tution: on general chemistry; on pharmaceutical
chemistry; on its application to the arts and manu-
febctures ; on bota^v ; on the rafvmmalia, and on birds ;
o^ reptiles and fisiies ; on the invertebral animals ;
pn geology; on iconography, and on mineralogy.
These lectures are perfectly open, and are uaually
well attended. Tickets for them may be obtained
Bi the Jarc^ du Roi.

Cabinet de TEcole des Mines. Cabinet of the
School of Mim^^ogy.

[Jardin defPiantes.] F4J

This institution was fonpneiiy situated in the praaoipal
court of the Mint ^ It was begun in 1778, with ,t^
<;ollection of the lamous chemist Le Sage^ who sp«nt
forty-three years in this particular pm^t It ««i-
tains specimens of all the minerals, sci^i^fici^ ar-
ranged; and one of the jcabin^ encloses the aBiM^ais
of eyery si>ecimen. There is* also a bust of Monsieur
Le Sage, which was consecrated by the gratitude of
his pupils. This splendid museum was untouched
by the Allies.

It is open to public inspection every dey except
Smdony^from ten tp ^a. FuhHo lechirei are^.

>d by Google

Mmred during fhe months, on Monday, fFednesdal^,
0»id Fnday, at noon, beginning in November.

. Muiie des Monumens Francais. Museum of

French Monuments.

[Ru9 den PetUs A%igustii%sJ]

.This establishment was formed m 1790, under the
direction of Lenoir ; but was closed in 1816, and the
monuments removed to the Louvre, the abbey of St
Denis, and various other public buildings.

Mtisie Boyal, The Royal Museum.
[At the Louvre.] F 4.

The Louvre, in its present state, contains upwards
of one thousand two hundred pictures ; and tne gal-
lory of sculpture consists of nearly one thousand fine
.raredmens of the art, with various d^rees of merit.
Blades these there ate 4,000 plates by the best mas-
ters, proofs of which are sold for tWe benefit of the
establishment ; and 450 drawings by the great mas-
ters, forming part of a collection of 20,000 which
belong to the musetun.

This museum was formerly the boast of Paris, and
the wonder of the world. It contained almost every
tfdeforaled work of art that the continent of Europe
possessed, and might be considered as a magnificent
' ttmple^ to which every votary of taste would resort,
«fid offer his adorations.

The establishment was founded on injustice, tad
enriched b;^ spoliation : it has therefore felt the hand
of TOtribution, and has been shorn of its principal
glory. The imperishable remains of the genius of
• former ages, which it contained, have been restored
to then* nghtflQ owners ; the halls of sculpture, onee
xthronMl to confusion with the chef-d'oeuvres of KMDe
«[id^f Qrceiti^ were nearly deserted ; and tl^tivii^

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.hundred {nimittiJbkpaiiitii^ ofthefrett'fftllM'W
reduced to little more than two huH&'ed fold ffiy^

The walls of the Louvre are now covered wi^ a
find collection of pictxireflfrDm the Luxembourg^ Ver*
sallies, and othe* royal residences, and partly froift
private coUeotioos. The catalo^e also consists of
paintings and specimens of foreign sculpture.

Let not; hc^wever, the traveller suppose that the
Louvre is despoiled of every object of attraction.
Many of the treasures of foreign statei^, indeed, <if
which they once boasted, are seeti tio more ; bttt the
paintings which adorned the numerous churches that
were prdfkned by revolutionary barbarism, have found
an asylum here, and every department of France has
^jontnbuted somethhig to^ re«der the gtliery «)f the
Louvre An interesting and ValulLble museum.

Hie works of the laoblest mast^s of the preseitt
French s^ool all remain ; and in addition to them,
the amateur may yet study some of the most exquisile
perfcHitt&Roes <€ A^smo, Baigh^si, Oaracd, €h«m*>
pa^e* GorreggiO, OoHonC^, Cayp, Pel Sarto, Domi*
nichino, G|iercuio> Gru»lo» MimUo, Rashael, Rem^
brandt, Romano, Rubens, Ru]f»dadr Saivator Rosa,
Siyd^rs, Teiiiers, Titttoretto, Titian, Ytadyck, Paul
Veronese, and Leonardo da Vinci.

The grand staircase leading to the gallery ©f tiie
R(^ Museum^ was oonstirueted by Foatain«* It is
oma^etited wi^ twenty^wo mai^ble coIqiws of the
Doric order, and with various seulptures lay Taum^^
r^resentii^ attributes of the aarts and scienoes, tro-
p^es of war, ^* The paintings <m the cali&g exi-
hibit'the revival of the Fme Axis ; some of them are
by Abel de Pwol, and others by Meynier.

The first and seeond ro<Mns contain paintings of the
various schools ; and the traveler then enters the
great gaUeiyr which is divvied into nine parts hy
enseKies* supported i)y CorinthisojOohmMH iai4^M»

>d by Google

tors, and adorned with glasses, candelabras, altars,
antu}ue vases, &c. The Urst three divisions contain
pictures of the French School ; the th^ee followii^
are (kvoted to the German, Flemish and Dutch
SdtMols, and the last three to the different schools
of Italy. ITiat part of the gallery which joins the
Tuileries is decorated with twenty-four small marble
columns, and twelve busts of celebrated painters.

It is impossible to convey an adequate idea of
the effect formerly produced on the mind, on entering
this magnificent apartment, 1400 feet in length, and
a-owded by 1200 paintings of the most eminent
masters of every school. The apparently intermina-
ble length of the gallery continues to excite surprise,
and the ddlful arrangements of the paintings that
remain, and of many others that ha;«:e been added
to them, certainly do not convey that feding of
nakedness and desolation which the stranger might
expect, and which some travelers have described.
Althoi]^ the gedlery has irreparably suffered in
value, it has not lost so much as might be imagined
in aiipeaifance.

It must, however, be confessed, that the place is
not' altogether suitable to the purpose to whidi it is
devoted. The light being admitted on both sides of
the gallery, renders it (SScult to find the proper
ntuation to examine some of the performances, and
concealing all the nicer touches, displays nothing but
the vanrisn of others.

Among the performances of Le Brun^the tra-
veller will notice that in which the wife of Darius
presents her son to Alexander ; the moving expres-
sion of her countenance, and the confusion marked
on that of Sysigambis, who had mistaken Hephaes-
tion for the mcmajrch, are admirable.

The defeat of Poms, by the same artist, is in a
different i^]e» and is justly considered to be his cA^»
dceuvre.

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The works of NicftLas Poun^ were not eoliiMiad

amidst the constellation of excellence bv which thejr
were surrounded ; they are now brou^t into mosrm
prominent notice* and will not £ul to please. The
Israelites gathering Manna in the Desert is deserv**
ing of considerable praise ; and the Sketch of the
Eape of the Sabines will not be viewed without in-
terest. The judgment of Solomon will be deemed
a yet more exctSent performance ; the fine exptcs-
sion of the face of the monarch is veiy striking. Sn*
perior to this is tiie Institution of the Eucharist ; end
the Deluge bceathes the truest sublimity.

The history ef St. Bruno» by Le Sueulr, and the
Ports of France, by Vemetr formerly in the Luxem^
bourg, should not escape the visiter's attention.

The dark broad cxharacter of most of the painting
of Valentine will please the instructed alone ; but, ta
bis Concert, the varied and striking expression of the
performers and tiie strong character of the soldier
m the fore-ground, wiU make a deep impresaon on
every spectator. - .

Philip de Champagne was one of tiie greatest oma*
ments of the Flemim school. Among the paintings
which adorathis gallery, three will not pass unne*
ticed* The Institution <k the Eucharist is one of his
best works. Hie Apostles are said to be portraits
of the anchorets of the Port RoyaL The immense •
picture of St Ambrose is equally deemed by the cen*
noisseur and the uninitiated, one of the noblest orm^
ments ot the gaUery. Its companion^ representing
the same saint removing the bodies of the mv^
Gervais and Protasius, is scarcely infrarior. The
figure and countenance of the lunatic possess all the
wildness of his supposed character.

Some paintings of Rubens display all that ar*>
tist*s excellencies, with a less than usual portion of
his oharaoteristic defects* Hii| Diogenes looking for

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A^'matimmLm, i7l

Itii \kmeKt mxn, wad Ms fhdoiynn wi^ the head of
Gyrus, ai<e his best. The organixation of the Agure«
k perfect, with les» want of taste, or perhaps a nearer
a^q^oaeh to good taste, then Rubens often displayed.
H^e also are the celebrated pictures called the gal-
lery of Rubens, which represent the principal events
m the Mfe <rf Mary de Medicis. They formerly
adorned the Luxembourg*

Of the performances of Ruysdael, his Tempest
wil be acknowledged to be the best. It is truly
grand.

Berghem has reiy few pieces remaining, but the
gftUeiy ye^fjoasts of his ehe/'doBuvre, It is a land-
scape aiv^tt*8ified with masses of trees and rocks.
The road presents several travellers and cattle. A
woman on horseback, to whom another f^ale is
presenting an infiant, is admirably executed.

Among the excellent portraits of Vandyke, or
Vandycfe that of Charies I. wfU be particularly dis-
tinguished.

The most perfect work of Snyders is to be seen.
h^*e. It represents different kinds of fruit and vege-
tables, with soi&e squirrels, an ape, and a parrot.

The Italian* school, once so numerous, contain;^
only a few specimens : but th^ are inestimable. Ihe
St. Jerome and St. Agnes, of Dominichino, are no
morft seen ; but the iSneas, accompanied by his son'
Asoafiius, beaSHng on his shoulders his father An-
chises, wai give a sufficient idea of the talents of this
a^eat mastei^ The Adoration of the Shepherds, by
Espagnoletto, is in his best style. Guido, whose
woWts are vet as glowing and fresh as wHen they re-
edved the last touches of the artist, continues to en-i
rich tiie museum with several admirable works. The
Bape oi Helen displays all his grace and expression •
but his Hercules contending wimAchelous,ancl kill-
ing^ Centaur Nesaas, 'surpasses aS praise. The

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Lores df Ventis nnd Adonis, I7 Aibanov- vte^t
sitely beaatifiil, partictdtrif the firat pieee» tvMeh've^
presents Vesms contemplating horedf in a nmanm,
Annibal Caracd furnishes a painting of htnitiii^tBni
sjhooting, not infimor to his best wori». Baul Ve-
ronese contributes hi^ jfioblest perfimnanee, ihe«t»le*
brated Marriage at Cana. The Savioor is seated ui
the centre of an immense table, and at his sideJthe
H^ Virgin, who« having just pvonouneed tiie wonis
'* There is no wine," is eagerly listenmg.to hear the
otdffl* which he'^may give. On eitiier side aire the
newly-manied >coi^fe, w^ as wdlas the numerous
guests, are portraits t>f the great persollagi^ of the
painter*s time« A lai^e group of musicians display
the portraits of all the •celebrated artists of Venice.
Paul Veronese himself appears habited in white» an4
playing on the violoaeeUo. . In the back ground is a
great balcony ; whUe the distance is ornamented with
colonnades and palaces, whence a crowd of pwsons
are seen observinff the feast.

The Wkehof Endor raising the ^host of SaoMiel
has all the grandeur ^nd sublkoity of Salvator
Rosa. Tlie ^tiope, with Jupiter in the formed
SsAyr, contains ill that sweetness ^ of expres^n,
that re&ied beauty of the ^amale foxm^ and hai-
mony of cdouxing,- peculiar- to Corre^o* iTiie
Jesus on the knees of St Aim, and the JHesMS^u^
ported by an angd, are pleasing efforts lof the- pott-
cil of Leonardo->la- Vinci. Titian has manjjiOt:-
trsdts with all his peculiar colouring ; 4iis L^sc^Us
at Dmrnaus is a splendid perlormance ; bed his
Entombment of Christ is without . a rival < The <ii-
vine Raphael hajs two woiics remaining in the gaUeiy.
The St. Michael vanc^uishii^ Satan will peiiM^
inake no great in:u[»ression. . nvras not the happiest
of Raphael*s productions, and it has heest di^nyqed
by the profane daubings^ yu]gaclycalkAjrepaini^>i)f

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t78

BMiem^artittB ; but the Hofy Fatmfy, altftoui^ s^
jdftd; scrubbed; and nmtilated, »t ooce prodthns its
author, and the more diUgentfy it is stuped, iqppears
more wortl^ of his genius. The fond al^chon of
the Yiram, who is extending her arms to receive the
infant Jesus, and the sc^toied yeneratkHi of Eliza-
beth, are admirabljr pourtrayed.

It would be ini{K>$8iye to. enter into a de8<»^tioB
(^ the numerous pictures: we must refer Uie reader
to the Cateioicue; ^ ^

Oroosite the Gh«at Gallenr is the Gall^ of
Apollo, constructed under Mary de Medicb. It
was intended to repMent Apollo with his attributes
•on the centre of the ceilii^; ^vA Le Brun, who was
to have executed k, onfy finished the following
nieces: Evening, in the oval towards the north;
Night, in the adjokiing octagon ; and the Eiveil
des Eaux, at the south end, towai^s \h^ quay. In
the oval towards the south, is Morning, by Henou.
The four principal com^^artments coi^ain the Sea-
sons, by dilPerent m^nbers of the Acadcaiiy, and in
the medallk)ns bdow are eight ol the months of the
year.

The Hall, or Vestibule to the Galkry of Apollo,
eontains pctures# representing the Fail of Icarus,
jokI .^ohis exciting toe Winds aj^aiast the Trojans,
i^Bkndel; the Battk b^ween Hercules and An-
taeiiis ; Achilles in d^ng^ of bemg swallowed by the
Xanthus; and Venus receiving Eneas' arms from
Vi;ikaa» by Oouder.

The noblest ^oductions of ancient sculpture
crowded the halls of the ground-fioor ; but the
Iiestitution of every work to which the French
^eould plead no better right than that of war^ robbed
*^ tiie Gallery of Antiques" of almost every valuable
•pedmen, and left it desolate and naked. It has re-
: ecmd wonderful afieetaions^ ^The statues, are wm
9K

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at4 THIftOTlt

N-jffraagMl «nd th« Freneh have tlMtht sftd aii?l .
dretiy void with the beit works Hiat other eoUeo-
tioiifl oan spare, and with model* of man^ of those
transcend^ pieces, which are now lost to iAitih. fop

The entraaoe into the halls which fiMrm the Cralleiy
of Antiques is on the left Of tile stah^ lepdii^ to the
gallery of paintiiigs. They are ei^t in numbS-, each
bearing aa approbate name;

First is the vestibule ; its ceiling, paMed by Bar-
fiielemy* represents the <nigin of sculpture, when the
first statae was fashioned by Prometheus.

The <bur medallions, representing the colossal
statue of Memnon, the P3rttiian Apollo, ^e Moses of
Michael Angelo, and the Milo of Crotona of Puget,
allude to the four principal schools of sculpture,
Egypt, Greece, Italy, and France. Tlie bas-relief
over the entrance dewribes the Genius of Art ; antj
that over the portal leading to the first hall the
union of Ihe three branches of design. Tliey are
both the iHX)duction of M. Ghaudet.

Next to tMs is the HaU of the Roman Enrperors,
ihe ceiling of which is painted by Meynier, ana repre^
sents the Earth receivifig fii'om the Emperors a code
of law, dictated by Nature, Wisdom, and Justice^
In two tablets of bronze, by the sanfe artist, Trajan
is seen jdanning the Roman reads, and ereciSng the
aqueducts. iSie bas-reliefe at the angles are the
Eridanus, the Tiber, the Nile, and the Rhine^
Here also is a bas-relief, by M. Roland, rgjresentipg
Marcus Ainrelius granting peace to tH* Marcomans.
This hall once contained the Minfflhra of VelletriJ
the Antinoiis, and Hercules, and the beaufifid Tomb
of the Muses.

The ceiling of the Hall of the Seasons was pahited

Sr Romanelfi, and contains the Wstoiy of Apollo and
iana. Htre was tiie ^e^^^te^ Indian BacdiTw;

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tile V«Aui ooBdng ^ttm the bath^tud the AHadn«,
4iiirnamal liie Cleopatra.

The Hall of Peace is de€K>rated by eight antique
{>illars of graoite, which formerly etiriched the nave
«f theohmtih of Aix-la-Chapelle. They were clumed
by the Prussians ; but it was found that they could
»ot be taken down without smous injury, and some
statues were given in exdianfler The ceiling, painted
bv Romanelfi, represents Minerva smrounded by
ulegorioal figures of the Arts, Sciences, and Com-
meroer whilst Peace is setting fh« to a bundle of
anns» and Agriculture is encouraging the labours of
a country life. Here w^e the exquisite statues of
Zeno, Demosthenesf, Trajan, Phocion, Menander,
^nd Posidii^us.

The ceiling of the Hall of the Romans is painted
by Romanelk) and exhibits History and Poetry cele-
brating the Buooesses of Bellona. Fom- (^er paint*
Higs represent the denutied of the senate oifering
the pui^e to Cincinnatus ; the Rape of the Sabines ;.
Hie courage of Mutius Scsevola ; and the Cbnti*
ntnoe of Soipio. This hall contained many rare
specimens of the antique. Among them were the
Germanicus, the Cere^, the Marcus Junius Brutus,
and Lucius Junius Brutus » th6 expiring Gladiator,
the Antinofis of the Capitol, the Spotted Faun, the
Tiberhis, and the fragment of the Colossal statue of
lieroules.

The next apartment Was called the Hall of the
Laocoon, but now the Hall of the Centaur. Its
ceiling represents the French Hercules conquering
the fury of l^arty, painted by Hennequin ; ths Arts
celebrating the Victories of Prance, by Lethier*;
Study and Fame, by Peyron ; and a Group of G^enii,
by Gueiin and Prudhon. It is here that the tra-
>r«ller p«t»ives the full extent of the retribution with
which IHnoe htm been visited. The inimitable and

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376 THB ROYAL nCUMTOM

vSbciktg Laocoon, the fascmatrngVeiuis^ Medsets,
the finefy-modelled Cinchmatus, the majestic Jtqpi-
ter, the simited Meleager, the exquisite Ctipid md
Psyche, and the much-admired iigure <rf the YouOi
extracting a thorn from his foot, are no longer to be
seen. "

Four columns of red oriental granite, taken from
the tomb of Charlemagne, adorn "die Hall of Diana.
The Belvidere Apollo, the subHmest sculpture that
has escaped the ravages of time, once oc<»ipkd a
conspicuous place in this hall. It was sinrounded
by the Belvidere Antinoiis, the Antinous of Egypt;
the Ariadne of the Capitol, the Nurse of Bacdius,
the Commodus Hercuks, the Capitoline Juno, the
Alexander Severus, the Alexander of the Ca^^tol,
the two Sphinxes, and the beautiful Candelalnu.

The ceiling (^ the Hall of the Candelabra repre-
sents Diana imploring Jujuter to permit her to re-
main amon^ the numb^ of the virgin goddesises.
It is the performance of Prudhon. The suirounding
paintings describe different events in the life of that
deity. The two drcular pictures are Diana granting
the stag with golden horns to H«*cule8, hv Gar-
nier ; and Diana restoring Hippol3i;us to life, by M^-
rim^e. The bas-reliefs represent Orestes carrying
away the Taurian Diana, by Petitot; the Lacede-
monian Vimns celebrating the fSte of Diana, by
Cartellier; Diana and her nymphs asking Yidean
for arms, by Espercieux; and Amaxons dancing
before the statue of the Goddess at Ephesus, hjf
Foucou.

The Hall of the Tiber is decorated with eicht
beautiful columns of Italian green marble, and besides
these there are, the Hall of the Gladiator ; the Hidl
of Pallas, adorned with twelve columns ; the Hall of
Melpomene, ornamented with a magnificent Mosaic
pavement, executed at Paris by3^nii represent*

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^ 4V TUlBt XiOU7B^« 377

iaf Mber^a m n oair, feUow^ by Peaee anil Abun-
dmic^ surrounded hj a rich border of river gods
and other embleais ; ihe HaU of Isas, oofitaining the
Eflyptioti iBOUuments ; the HaU of Ps^yche:; the HaU
of the Aruspex ; the HaU of Hercules and Telephus ;
the HaU of Medea, and the HaU of Pan, decorated
iNdth eight lonie granite columns^ and four of yeUow
marble.

^ The HaU of the Cfuyatides is remarkable sks the
scene of the entertainments of Catherine de Medicis»
This sqperb piece of architecture, was constructed
under Francis^ fit^m. the designs of L^cot; but the
relievos were ^ecuted by GoHJon*. and the ornaments
by Ponce.-^ It is 140 feet in length, and 41 in breadth.
JThe principal objeet of ©iniosity in this apartment is
the tnbane eaUed Goujon» supported by ibur carya-
^des in alto*relieva, resembling those of the Temple
of £reotheus at Athens,, and considered the chef-
d'OeuTre of this eny^ent master. Over the tribune is
a£ne bas-reUef inlffon^e) executed by Benvenuto
Gellini, in the reign of Francis I., to ornament the
jM^Bi^ at F^ntaindsteau; and below it is aibeaut^ftil
bronze door of the latk centuiy, ornamented with
eirfit bas-rdiiefe by Andrea Riccio, which formerly
^a^med the mausoleum of the family DeUa Torre at
ya*ona. At Uie opposite end of the hail, facidg the
tribune, is a handsome dumoey-piece, decorated with
«iatues of Flora and Bacchus, attributed to Gouion.
On the ground-floor is the Gsleiie d' Axu;ouleme,
consisting of Ave rooms, which were opened in 1824,
Thev contain many curioiis specimens of ancient and
modern sculpture, amongst which ore' two groups by
iDanova, representing different parts of the story of
Cupid and Psyche; Diana, by Jean Goujon, which
formerly ornamented the enlnuace of the Chateau
d' Anet ; a ^ave, by Michael Ao^elo ; and the Milo
gSCxQions^ \«Qu^ai from Yets9J^^

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87d COKBB&YATOftT OT itttTS.

The OaUeiy of E^yptiBii Anth^riies, yecmtl^r.
broBght to Paris, is vdry extensive. A ^stafogoe^-d^
^m was ddered to be piinted in Sept. 180$.

This muBewH is open to the pubUe tm Sunda^^
fhm ten o'clock until four; but students and ^^'
reigners are admitted every deny eceoept Monday, oh
producing their passports, and wnAtg down their
names and addresses^

An exhibition of ihe xirodnetions of living artlals
takes place ev«y * two years in 'the mnd saloon.

It is generalty open for six weeks, and the publio
are admitted every day from 10 to 4, exeept on Tues^
day, when it is<iloSed; and on Friday, when it is
appropriated to the tipper classes of society.

An atmnal exhibition also of l^eneh Manu^Bbetures
takes place for fifteen days in December or January.
It is held at the Louvre, and the public aa^e actontled
ev«7 day from 10 to 3, except Tuesdays ai«i fVidays«

The exhibition of the products of fraach Industry
is likewise heM at the LoUlrre every four years,

Mus^ du Luxembourg^ See Palais du Luxembour^i

Conservatoire desArts et Metiers. Conservatory of

Arts and Trades.

[Abbey of St. Mariin, Rue St. Martin, No. 208 ] C 8.

Fsw nmseums are more interesting, none more iil^
structive or valuable, thiln this. It is ian imraeto^
collection of aM the machines invented by French
genius arid industry, in every kind of manufac^tt^
and every branch of art. It is a coUectioi^ pecidS^
iind highly creditable to the metropolis of Frajice,
and cannot fafl of being productive of the most bew-
fieial effects. It undoubtedly has diffused throiwh
France ' a knowledge of mechanics, and a sk^m
adaptation of the simplest implements^ to the most
^^ompjicajted purposes, unknown in every ^ei^bourv

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MtgeoMgfarjr; but Urn pecudkr ekaraeter o€ the French
hH^eoafiised this to tiiAing and almost oontenqitible
objects, to more toys and ^ewgafws, while those
bi^Mr braaehea of the arts, wmdi are eonneoted with
Uie anf^ixxri. and comfort of human life, have beea
eomparatively neglected.

: T^ tol a^partment of this spacious conservatory
contains specimens of spinnin^-jenaies, and wheels,
aiBd eardtng-mills, emploj^ed m the maailfaeture of
cotton thread. They are ^mple and iagemoua ; but'
yaluable improvements on th^m have h^ta recently
mfaroduoed into the Brkasii manu&otories.

The second apartmesit is chiefly filled wilh the in-
Tentions of Vaucanson, the pinoe of French me^
ehani^. The traveller will particularly itotice the
enormous machine for spinning cotton. It was. much
telebrated at its first invention, buttheEnghsh and
German artists have simplified ijbs^oonatamotion. A
Biore pleasing^ but not e^iaUy striking ol^eet, is the
machine for unrav^n^ the web i of the siH(-worra.
Various looms for weaving tapestry and embroidery
oa stuffs and silks are '' Mkewise enubited. Tlie in-
habitants of Lyons having treated some of these in^
ventions with urideseryed'neglect, Vaucanson attadled
an ass to one of the looms, who executed a jjiece oi
tapestry infinitety superior to any thing wmch the
jpost skilfi^lLYonese manufacturers could produce.
A Battern of it is shown here. . ■ j

: ,-In ^e cases that surround the room are different
kinds of wheels, and instruments o^ wrought and oast
l^rosi, principally connected wiUi these madiines* I
, The hall, ^rhichis next entered, is of a differ^tt
^description. It is devoted to improvements in archie
4ecture, and contains models of public and* private
.Vvildings of every description, beautifully executed in
ipood imd ivosy. ^

.'. Xbft stnuigfar is oea^t intrpduoedii^ the church of

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^ aneient prk^. It is prineipftlly iJtedMtti^i^
draulio machines^ Among Uiem ift the m^eitiKrafl.snl
simple o(mtrivaiice of Montgc^er,' to. raise W8^«
eonamonfy called Ms Ram. Diffem^ Mods i(^ &«<
cn^nea ai^ next m succession, with someintevestii^
m^els of fire-ladders and iire*«sca^^. NuoMro^is
n^ls and ploughs M the remakiiit^ part ef tfa« ehiuroh;
but ihe im|Mrovenieiils wbddi the English haire made
in the latter, h»ve left Ihe boasted a^ziculture «f
France lur foebind^ In ^laother part of the t&uai^iBi
if a greater, van^ ©f ploi^hs.

The travetier is next shown xm)dels ^f every Tessei
of earthen or stonawars, as appropriated io ocona*
Bueal cr eulmai^ puiposes* To these suceoed «!
infinite variely of Iraqis, of e^f&ty form rand principle*
IlMbt which is imown.in London l^ the naaie of the
hydrostatic lamp was cc^ned. firdbi cme preeen^
here. In mo^hlat lan^ iJie oil is ouriou^ raised by
dook-woric. The shades of the-lamps> of ml^y dilr
fbrmi^ maiterialSi «iid,of. an endless varielY of pafc«
tems^ will asMise aad please; The enbelhshiBent^
on seme of 4^m are-eSKouted with JniatitaWe taala
foidi^ganeei

The steaniHengines next succeed ; but the KngliMi*
taian who has sectt thfe grand improvements of Watt
and . Bolton» will scMicedy deem them worth hll
notice. Numeroua^ s^phonsr and eontrivaaoes im
decanting liquors, are ii^eniottS;

Th« in^leHi^ots of agrimdtiire Bxe iHyw4>njQe movt
brought Under review. A great vai»e1^ of pknijghii^
harrows^ cluaan^ thrashing and wimiowu^ madiinet^
a»d wine presses, ofl^ themselves in long suee&s-
•Goon, inttt-spsrsed with models of pales, feaoes,^[atM(

&C &C« .';>

The next division possesses eonsiderabie interests
It is a long range of grates, stoves, 4jhimnegps, snd
iuitittweel ^r«a(Ntt,^oiMlir«^tiQM bhI 0ft ittioil

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every yrmcqAe. New nnprovem^nts have, however^
superseded the greater part of them.

A handsome staircase conduct to numerous
apartments above, opposite the entrance to whidi
was formeriy placed a curious cast of Hemy IV;
moulded from his €sce a few hours ai^ his death.
This, however, has been removed to the Palais Bouri'
bon. The first object which presents itself is an im«
mense model of the machine of Marli. To this suc-
eeeds a long range of models, superior in interest to
wjy thing whidi the traveller has yet seen. It is a
duq[)lay of evoy kind of art and manufacture. SmaH
houses, resembling the buildings in which the maau-
ftictures are ususdly carried on, are open in front,
and exhibit in their different apartments the various
implements and machines employed in each and
every stage of the business, fhmi the first operation
on the rough material, to its transformahon into
some eli^gant or useful artide. Nothing can be con-
ceived more pleasing, instructive, and useful than this;
No young person should visit Paris witiiout devoting
one or two mornings to the Conservatory, and espe*
cially to this division of it. From the most compU*
eated and important manufactory, to the shop of the
earpenier, and the fom of the blacksmith, every
thing is perfect ; not the most insignificant tool is
omitted, nor one process forgotten.

Having satisfied his curiosity here, if indeed one
or many visits can satisfy it, the stran^ is conducted
to the models of telegraphs, pile-engmes, waggons,
carts, carriages of every tdnd, windlasses, and b^ts.

Next follow specimens of china, earthenware,
and glass ; numerous varieties of paper, coloured,
stamped, or beautifully cut ; types, letters, (wnaments
fbr printing and book-binding ; contrivances for re-
medying deficiencies or distortions in the human
fhape : artificial legs, arms» fmd eyes ; more <^ttoB

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md mSk nuidiines, with a rafMrfo and matdiless njs*
sortment of ribands and silks, and innumerable pat-
tern of laee, not intereaUng merely to the female
•Tisto, but pleamnc obfetts to erery eye; fans of
ittother«^-peail and steel ; models to ftmhtate the
jtudy of pcrspeetiye ; models of pulints, oljeets of
mudn importance in erery Frendi religioas edifice ;
balaaeos of erery desaritrtion; turning lathes, with
exquisite specimens of their effieots ; thermometers,
lMn>mfiters,magnets, andbronzeomaments ; watdies;
chronometers, and dodcs of efveiy construction. One
dock is much admired ; it sets m motion an «rgan,
fiOMl has rni its top an anniHary sphere, witl^ a small
orreiy in the centre, beautifully di^laying the motions
of every planet The -vestibule, m winch this clock
U placed, is vaulted, and if a person whis^)er against
the wall on one side, he may be distinctly h^rd on
the opposite wall in a diagonal du«ction.

Every Frendmian is compelled to deposit in this
museum a modd of all the mstruments or machines
whidi he may invent or improve, with a detailed ftc-
eomit of thinr oonstmclioD and use, and the whole
prooMS of ^e maaii£actuA m which they are em-
ployed.

In one of the halls is a siqierfo librAryi containhig
every publication* in ever^r langua^ on the different
subjects connected with this exodlent institution* It
consists of 1 0,000 TOlumes.
. To render the establishment yet more usefhl, lec<*
tures are ddivered by the ablest professors, on geo-
metry and natural philosojphy, as api^ed to the arts
and construction (k machmes, and the processes of
different manufSeuitur^^. These lectmres, however,
are confined to pupils, who are recommended by the
Minist^" of the interior.

The Conservatory U open to thepuhUe on Suftdmf
tmd Tfwreday from ten to /our$ but /breigmif^

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are qdmitted every day ^ .firm tweiv& to /our^ on
producing their passports,

ThQ private rooms, eontuning yamus philoso*
phical and astropo]nW in6truiii£nts, models, draw-*
ings, &c„ can only be 9een byim order from th9
Director, who must be applied to by letter.

Two catalogue3 are sold at the entraneid, one, price.
15 sous, giving an account of that poi^ion open to
the public, and the other, price 3 francs, describing-
tbe \vho}e. llie visiter wiU find the latter the best.

Mush dtArtillerie, Museum of Artillery.

iRue d$ P Vnwtr$U^, No. 18.] D 4.

This is the depot of every machine invented for ti^
destruction of human beings. It likewise contains a
valuable collection of the different kinds of f^mtour
used in every period of French history. Among
them is the complete armour of Joan of Arc, God-
frey de Bouillon, Francis I., Loins XI., Umay IVo
and Louis XIV. . '

Jf is difficult to ptmure mdmimom to this Museum,

DepSt of the Models of Fortified Toums^

At the Hospital Of ^e Invalids H preserved a beau-
tiful collection of models of all the fortified towns in
France^ Tl^ are said to be accurately, and are
certainly very elegantly constructed, and give a
bird's-eye view of me town, and the fortifications by
which it is surrounded. . Some of the seaports are
peculiarly striking. This n^useum has suffered from
the fortune of war ; the Prussians having laken from
it the models of all the towns on their frontiers.

Admission to this dep6t is not dt all times easily
obtained, A particular recommendation from some
of the ministers, or person in mtharity^ is m-*
cessary. ^ - - ^

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* Cabinet (tAnaiomie. Cabinet of Anatomy.

[At the EcOe 46 Mide(am,'\ F 5.

Tins museum is remarkable for the variety, m^ilti-
pUcity, and beauty of its contents. It consists of
preparations, as well as of wax models, of aJmo^ft
every part of the human body, both in a sound and
in a diseased state. Here also are preserved skele*
tons of numerous quadrupeds, birds, fishes, &c. ;
an extensive collection of surgical instruments; va-
rious specimens of drugs j a cast of the celebrated
dwarf «^b6 ; the crania of diffierent nations, the
Chinese, the .Hihdoo, the African, &c.
**" This cabinet is ^m to the public on Mondtxys,
Wednesdays, and Jmdonfs, from ten to two o'clock.

Cabins d" Architecture, Architectural Cabinet
[At the Palais lies Beauof Arts.] F 4.

This is a collection of models in plasl;^ and in cork,
representai^ the most celebrated monuments of
Grecian, ^oi»aii» Indian, Egvpiaan, Persian, and
even Mexican ardiiteetuce. . It was formed by M.
Dufomiaiin 1800.
// is open to the public e»enf*day from 10 to 3«.

Cabinet de PMsiologie de M. Bertrand, Cabinet

of Phisiotogy.of M. Bertrand.

iRued'Arriboise.] F «.

This cabinet will not be overlooked by the medicd
or scientific traveller. It contains models in W|^
beautifully and accurateljr executed, of every part,^f
the human body, both in its healthy and morbid
state. ,

It is open from nine till six: price of aSmisnonl
two ftanes, forty cent^

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' Mu^6Europ4^, European Museum.
IRUB du Temple.] G 8. ,

l^His establishment has been formed fcnr the purpose
ipf enabling artists to dispose of their works. It
eontains, besides mod^n pictures, numerous statues,
vases, and tapestries, ima a choice collection of the
old masters.
^ is open every day from nine to four.

Private Collections of Paintings.

Paris contains several private collections of pictures,
which can only be seen by p^mission of theproprie-
tors. This, however, is easily obtained. The prin-
pal are —

The Gallery of the Buke d'Orleans at the Palais
Royal, consisting of modem French pictures. Ap-
phcation to see it must be made to the superintendent
of the palace, and permission is generally given for
Stttuiday, from 12 to 4.. .

The (Jollection of the late Duke de Benry at the
]Mai» d'£ljrs6e Bouri^n, eaanlnisiDg' IfiO pictercs
6f the Flenush and Dutc^ sdtools.- May be! seen on
Thursdays, from 11 to 3, by appHesfcion to the
superintendent of the^i^ace.

The Gallery of M. Sommariva, Rue du Basse
Scmpart, Ko. 4. Admission may be obtained on
Fridays, fitmi 12 to 4; bv applying to the Concier^

The ColleMifiMBi of Baron Denon was sold in
1826.

' 'the CoHedtion ^ Marshal Soult (Duo (te Dal-
tnatie). Rue de TUniversit^, comprising some fine
)^ictuies from Spain.

Collection of Paintings,
[No.n, Rue de LiUcy or de Bourbon*]
Tkis is a very interesting private collection of paint-
2 h

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in^ of the twdfth and two fbllowjbog oenturm. There
exists no other of the kind, even in Italy. After hav-
ing admired the noblest jntxiuctions of modem times
in the ^kndid galkrv of the Louvre, it ig pleaainif^
to contem^ate here the first essays of the infaxu^ <»
the art The conncMssenr will perceive in many of
these paiEdBgs a brillianey of coloiar, a force of ex-*
pression, and a delicacy of touch, which he did not
expect

The propriet(»r has great treasure in exhibiting
the beauties of his gallery to me ciuious stranger.

Golerie de Dgvid, Payid's Galleiy.

Is an exhibition of some of the paintings of this
celebrated master. Admission, two francs.

PUBLIC LIBRARIES.

Exturaivi and vahiaUe eoQeetiont of booki ars
attached to almost every pibMc institution undmvacf
puUiB boilcijBg in Paris. Access to them is easily
obtained by the inhabiteals of Pwii, aod evorft
ilteilky is aiforded to the traveller.

Bihliotheqm Rauale. The Royal l4avary,

Thb exterior of this edifice is exceedingly plain^ and
gives Ao indication of the treasin^s that it oontains.
Neither the windows nor the principal entranoe hav#
the least ornament. An archway admits to a ootfft;
600 feet in lengfth, and entirely surrounded by build-
ings, the architecture of which is uniform, simjile,
and el^ant In the centre is a bronze statue qC
IMana, by Houdon.

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TBM »OVAL UaHMT. $§f

. Th» "RovjBl labranr dates its ori^ from a very
early period. King John collected ten volumes } six
^n science and histovy, and four on reU^on. To
them» his son Charles V.» sumamed the Wise, added
more than nine hundred volumes. These constituted
a lil»rary \vhich« at that age, mifht justly be deemed
worthy of the royal collector. It was deposited in a
tower of the Louvre^ called la Tour de la Libratre,
the Library Tower. The apartment was illumined
at night by thirty small chandeliers and a silver
lamp, that the student might pursue his researches
at every hour. It appears to nave been afterwards
neglected, and almost destroyed ; for, when it was
purchased by the l)uke of Bedford, for 1,200 hvresi
m 1429, it was found to contain but 150 volumes^

Louis XI. collected the scattered remains of this
Hbnury, and replaced them in the tower. The art of
printing, which was now discovered, enabled him
greatly to enlarge it. Charles VIII. contributed
what the conquest of Nicies enabled him to collect ;
Louis XII. acfded to it the hbraiy of Petrarch ; Fran-
cis I. emiched it with nuHieroua Greek MSS. ; and
H«»ry II. secured its progressive and rapid increaAe
by the decree which compelled the booksellers to
preaeiit the rdjrftl libraries with a copy on vellum of
eveify work which they published. Colbert aug*
mented it with more than 60,000 volumes. Cardinal
Fleury sent many literati> at an enormous expense,
to the Greek islands and the Asiatic continent, who
broui^t hoikie numerous curious and invaluable
morsels of antiquity. It was, however, under the
veigfiis of Louis XlV.» XV., and XVL, that it attained
that degree of splendour and magnificence which,
venders it the irst hl^aty in Europe.

The ground-floor is appropriated to new publica-
tions, which the law obliges every pubhsher to pre*.

2h2

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^8i TOE ROT At MBKAIIT.

sent to this library ; but these rooms aie not open to
the public

A handsome stairease to the ri^t leaids to th^
upper galleries which form three sides of a square,
and extend nearly 700 feet. These contain fht
printed books and the cabinet of medals and anti-
quities. Of the former it is calculated there are
350,000, and of the latter there is a splendid cc4-
lection.

Tables ftimished with ink- stands are placed in dif-
ferent parts of the room for the accommodation of
visiters, who may call for whatever books they please,
and brfore whom the scarcest prints, the raresrt
medals, ^e most valuable manuscripts, are unhe-
sitatingly placed at the first requisition.

Busts of the most cdebHited French Hta-ati occupy
several niches, and* a projecting gallery, afPordmg
access to the upper shelves, surrounds the library.

In the second roomi is a bust of Louis XYIII., ttnd
in the galleiy to the right is the French Parnassus,
by Titon du Tfllet. It represents a little mountain,
covered with bronze figures of the most ceklnrated
poets and musicians of France. Louis XIV. appears
tinder the figure of Apollo.

At the end of this gallery is a model of the Pyra-
mids and the Sphinx, accurately preserving tlidr
proportions, and ornamented by a grove of pafans,
with a caravan of travellers. It was made by CoL
Grobert.

In the next gallery under a glass case is an Orrery,
constructed by M. Charles Rouy, and at the extre-
mity is a statue of Voltaire, modelled from that in
marble by Houdon.

In an apartment to the right of this gaUery are
two lai^ globes nearly 13 Enghsh feet in diameter.
They were constructed by Coronelli in 1«62, and ore

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^01 AOXAJb X,IWi»V« #if

itmMMeilio^ the hrgedt extant, with Hie exertion
ofthat in Pembroke College, Cambridge, 'fiiey both
tear ins«i^ions ; that on the oele^tial globe informa
ua that the planets are laid down in the position they
occupied at the birth of Louis le Grand ; and that on
the terrc6tnal» states that it was constructed to exhi-
bit the connlries which that great monarch might
>ave BuUkedt had not I^mi modwation prescribed
limits to his valour!

TheTisitm' then a&ters the Cab»et of Antiquities,
Bear the door of which is a vessel -o^ porph)^v said
to have been the baptismal font oi Clovis. This
Cabinet consists chiefly of the collections made by
Comte de Caylua. Three adnuraUe paintin<c^, . Iqr
Notaire, adorn this apartment, representing Thalia»
jQaUione, lind Terpsichore, there axe aUo three
beauttfhl productions of Carlo Vanloo : Psyche
conducted by Hymen» the Inventress of th^ rlute»
and the three paitrons of the Muses. The portrait
0f Loins XIV^9 after Rigaud, was painted by M4
Pdliar, and that of Low XVIIL, by M. Scheffer,

Among oth^ ouriosities opntained in this apart-
ment, is an Ibis, brought from Thebes, .the plumage
et which is fresh mmI perfect, althoiMrh ttiree thou-
4MUmI ywra have pasaed aimee it wes first enclosed in
Ms ease. The silver ^elds, attributed t0 Scipio and
Hannibal, are seen here» tG^;ether with the brazen
«iiair of king De^ob^; Uie Heart of Anne <^
Brittany, enclosed m a golden vase ; the Armour of
.{^caoeisl.; the celebrated Tablet of Isis, inci-usted
with silver, and filled .with undeeiph^ed Egyptian
Jbierogljfphicd; aa Egyptian MS. on papyrus; the
seal of Michael Angelo ; the ^word of the 0;tiler of
Malta; the dbessmen said to haye been given to
4i2harieniagne by Haipim al Easchid^ a cup of agate;
•nd aeveral antique busts. The most interesting
portifioa of tbia ooUeotiim ara tl^a antique cameo-

^ ' iLS

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•ad inti^lios, confdgting of rings and seals exqnl*.
ntdy finuhed by Greek artists. The cameo^ refn-e-
senting the Apotheosis of Augustus, Tiberius on hi9
ttoone, and me captive nations conqoered by Ger^
manicus, is the lavgest in existence. ;

In the centre of the apartment i».a laiige buffet^
with several eurious articles, parikulaiiy an ivory
vase, 18 inches in he^ht. In the drawers of tiiia
bufPet are the things discovered in 1653, at Toumay^
in a tomb sii^|K»ed to be that of Childeric, the
&th^ of Clovis; here also are several vakzahle
antiquities, such as gold chains, a golddbtsp, &c. -

At the entrance oi the Cabinet is a bust of Abb6
Bartti^^my, the author of the.Travds of Anaehar-*
sis, and formerly keeper of the Medals.

In the same room as ^e Cal:(inet of Anti(]^uities^
but not open to publk inspection, is the Cabmet of
Medals, which is the most complete in £«rope. It
consists of about a hundred thousand pieces in gold;
silver, and bronze/ whidi are arraog^ in drawers
in geogn^hical and cteronc^ogical orda*. A de<^
scription of this collection has been published by
M. Mionnet

The voyages of Dumonoeau and La Vaillant were
principalhr undertaken to eom^is^ this superb eabU
net. La Vaillant, zealous to execute hiscommismo&i
swallowed twenty medals of goM to preserve them
ihmi the Algerines, into whose powo* he had fidleiK

The visiter then descends ^rgreat staircase, and*
turning to the right, ascends a smaller one leaidiiig
totheMSS. and Engravings. x

The MSS. occupy six rooms, <Mie of whidi called
the Mazarine Gallety, is about 140 feet long and^
broad. The recesses of the windows are ornamented
with landscapes byGrimaldi Bologn^se, who akw
paiiited the niches facinff them, but these Bxemm
««ao6aled by shelves, fl^ ceiling was jjaoited-by

Digitized by Google

CBB mOTAL £IBSA*T. $9t

Romanelli m 1661 : it.reprtseats various fiAmloag
snfcjeets, and is interspersed with* medallions and
other onMOn^its.

Of the MSS. there are about 100^000, dO»OdO of
vrhich relate to the history of France, princ^mlly
subseqmot to the reign of Louis XI. Twenty-five
thousaidd are in lemied and foreign language!*
Some of the most cunous are shown under ^asv
cases. Amongst them is a Statement of Receipta
and Expences in the time of Philippe-le^Bel^ seviral
letters of Henry lY. to Gabrielle cTEstr^es, several
also of Henry VIII., the manuscripts found by
Benon, in the munmiies of the C^taeombs» at
Thebes, the MS. of Telemachus, in the hand-writing
of Fenelon, the memoirs of Louis XIV. by ^e savB^
excellent. author, and numerous beauts&d missals,
which belonged to the monarchs of France.

The libraries of the Vatican, at Rome^ and St
Marc at Venice, once: enriched this colketion with
many invaluable MSS. ; but these, with afl the revox*
lutionary spoils, have be^ restored to then: right&i>
Ofwners.

. The Repository of Engravings comprises 500a
volumes, divided mto twelve classes. The first cdn*
Uaas sculpture, ieurohitecture; and. ihe portraits of
aaerav«rs ; the second, emblematical and devotional
^^ccts ; the third, Greek and Ronum aatiquities,
i^h fabulous and mythological su^eetSj the fourth,
0iadals, eoinsr and heraldiy ; the fifth, publio pro-
eesfiicms, banquets, and tournaments; the sixths
natural philosophy and the mathematics; the se-
iMlith, romantic and ludicrous subjects ; the dghth,
imtural history ; the ninth, geography ; the tenth,
Iptas and elevations of ancient and modem build-
aogps ; the eleventh, portraits to the number of 50,00P,
•monK wMch is included every celebrated character
who m» flourished in any countiy d^^^i^ ^ '^asI

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3tt «n moTAir u^i^joixi

gtaancn^ aiul amusenkents of eveiy region i^ tte
habitable globe. It comprises a very extensile and-
^HnHpletB history of the costume andnuum^ra of Ihe
French from the era of Christ to the jn-esent periods
Most of these flngrayings are coloured^ andstqre co-
pies from aneioat windows, t^ciestry, and fBonu*
ments. Two proofs of every engraving published in
France are d^iosited iti this coltection.

In the Repositonr of EngrmvingB, is a portrait of
King JohO) ooniddeiied the most valuable rdie of
French paiidiBg^ of the fourteenth century.

On the ffround-fioor is a room containing tiie
Celebrated Zodiac of Denderah and other £gyptiati
antiquities. This apartment is not open to the pub-
l|c» bi^.visiters may ste it by giving a tr^e to the
attendant

Thera are hkei^ise ftve great h>oms» containing
Hie genealogies of ev^ nt^e French family.
These M 0000 portfolioa 4 but nte not open to tot
public.

The librarians are, M. Van Praet, for the ]^inted
books ; Ab^ Remunit, for the orienM manus<»'^)ts ;
QwA, for Latin and Grvek; Dader, modom Ian**'

Sages; Oosselin and'Raoul Rochette^ forihejaa)fr<
Is €Lii4 antiquities ; and Joly» for the engraving.
. Leotms are ddivared herci on the Per^an and
Miiay. langui^s, every Monday, Wednesday, ami
Batwrday, at two o'clock ; on Arabic, on Tueadair
aad Thursday, at half-past one ; on IVtrldsh, on
Thursday, at half-past mree, and on Tuesday aB4
Friday* at eleven ; and on Armenian, on Tuesday,
Thursday, and Saturday, ftt six*

Lectures are also given here on archssolpgy, h^f
the Conservator of Antiqmties^ on Mondays, Wed-^
nesdays, and Saturdays^ at two 9'^^OQk, during ftya
ittOA^ofthayeipr, ,.

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LIBBART OF THS . ARSftNAL. 893

The Wfrary is open on Tuesday ctfUiFrtdaffyfTam
ten o'clock until two. To students and f&ne^gners
it is open every day, except Dn Sundays^ Saturdays,
fite-dxys, and during a vacation o/Hx weeks^ A»n-
mencing on the first of September,

A cataiogue of the Antiquities, and another of the
Engravings, may be purchased at the doors.

La Bibliotheque de la Ville. The City Library.

[Rue Tourniquet, behind the Hotel de Ville.'] G 4.
This library is principally devoted to botany. It
contains every splendid work on that subject, and
numerous accurate and beautiful drawings of plants.
The ceiling, painted by Gerardini, is universalljr
admired.

Jn thejfrst and second weeks of every month, this
Library is open to the public on Thursdays, Fri^
days, and Saturdays, from 12 ^o 4 ; and in the third
and fourth weeks it is open every day. The vacch
tion is from Sept, 1st to Oct. 1st,

Bibliotheque de Monsieur, ou de r Arsenal. Library
of Monsieur, or of the ArsenaL
[At the Arsenal, Rue de Sally.] G 5.
This magnificent collection was purchased by the
Count d'Artois, from the celebrated Paulmjr d*Argen-
son. It now forms part of the library of the Peers.
It contains 150,000 printed volumes, and 5000 MSS;
Many of the missals are beautifully illuminated on
velliun. The brilliancy of the colours almost com-^
pensates for the tameness of design and poverty of
exm^ession.

This library contains a magnificent collection of
works on the military art : but it is not confined to
them ; it is rich in general history, foreign literature,
9i)d Italian poetry.

WJien the Prussiwis wrived in Paris, on their

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t#4 UMAAXr on IT. MMViBVl.

00ooiid mcpedMm, ihey appeared to )m Aftt>d««d to
despdl this library of its most valuable works. M,
Treneuil) the hbrariaii, and even the. French Minister
t>f ^e Interior^ interbred in vain ; but the «iergetic
remonstrances of the o^ebrated Humboldt preserved
it from destruction.

The traveller iiirill r^at^d with venea^ation the
apartment of the great Smly, the ornaments and fur-
niture of which ate religiously peserved unchanged.
He may particularly notice two ctirious antique
Writings^deskf . The builffing was erected in 1 5S4. '

Th^ iidrwf tf the ArseiM U open to the pub*
lid everf thy, mcc^t Sundcttf^from tm <fdock um
M two; butfrafn the nth September to the 3rd of
i^ovemher it is shut,

^iUiotMque Ste. Geneviive, tlie library of St.
(Jenevieve.
[Plate de «Sf«. Genevike.} F 5.
This library occupies the ui^)er part of the andent
abbey of Ste. Genevieve, and contsans 112,000 printed
volumes, and 2000 manuscripts. It is in the form
of a cross, hghted by a small dome in the centre, the
cupola of which was painted by Restout the elder, in
1730. It delineates me apotheosis of St. Att|ti$ti».

The painting at one extremity of the building id
by Lejouxi and fomtK a complete illusion. Many
busts of eminent men, from the chisel of GiraMon,
Coysevox, Goustou> fend other sculptors, oiHament
this llbrai^. At the entrance of the Cabinet of An*
tiques, wmch contains several euriositiesj is a plan
of the city of Rome, in relievo, and colOUJfed, the
Woii of Grimani, in 1776.

At the east end of the library is a model of a frt-*
gate built at Havre -de- Grace, and against the wafl
of the staircase is an immense drav^ng of Hie Mooti«

7%t> Hbreiry is vpm ^mr^ doiy ^(ym ten o'cUch

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tiUUmh ^pecq^tfrom lii September to 1#^ Novemieri
ipken it u €lo9«i*

Biblioth^que du Palais Bourbon* Library of the

Bourbon Place. D 4.
This library was appropriated to the use of the
members of the Tribunate, and the chief officers of
state. It was, formed in the eighth year of the Re-
volution, with books collected from the literary
depdts at Paris. It has been since ai^;mented bf
the contributions of many hving authors and book«
sellers, and contains about 30,000 volumes.

This collection was first placed in the Tuileries,
but afterwards removed to the palace of Bourbeu. <

Biblioth^que de Vlnstitut. Library of the Jtistitute.

[In the PalaiM de$ BeauJe Arts,2 F 4,
In 1819, a royal order was issued commandhig that
tills library should be united to the BibholheQue'
Idazarine, but several difficulties having oceurredC it
was revoked in the following year. The lilMrajy of
the Institute was originally founded by Colbert, in
1666, and has been gradually increased^ till it now
amounts to more than 50,090 volumes, It is only
open to the members of the institute.

Bibliothique Mazarine. Maxariae Library*
[In the Palais des Beaux Arts.] F 5.
This collection was appropriated by Cardinal Maza-
rine, on the 6th of March<1661, to ^e useof-ns|^n of
science and letters. It was originally formed by
Galiriel Ncuidet, and contains upwards of 90,000
volumes, comprising every thing that can be es-
teemed most rare and curious, on ev«y suTtject, and
in every language. Amongst its curiosities is a line
statue of V^tanre, by . Piddle, as well as a curious
terrestrial ^obe, made by the Bei^gwins, during the

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yeign of Louis XVI.. for tKe use of the Daii]^iii.
There are also several antique statues and mai^e
Ijusts. r *

It is open eOe^'^if, except Thursdcxy and Sun-
da^,from ten tm tito, but has a vacation from Au^
gust Ibjth to October I5th.

MibliQtheque de VEcole de Mddecine. Librajy of
the Medical School. F 5.

Thb school of medicine possesses a well-selected
and numerous libraiy, comprising every subject that
bears the remotest connexion with the healing art.
r It is open to 'the public on Monday, WeStesday,
mnd Satwp^ijt^im o^ clock until tv)o.

Bibiio(^!^qm& "Su ^Mus^e dHistoire NatureHe.

Library of flii^ Mtiseum of Natural History.

[At the Royal Garden of Plants.] G 6.

This library, rich in every work relating to natural
history, has aJready been described in the account of
the Royal CtWde^a ofOaants.

The colUcttin bf.herbals and paintings, and de-
signs of plants,^ is; immense. It is open at the same
tune as tne Museum. See Royal Garden of Plants,

Paris contains numB-oiis other libraries, which are
noticed under the establishments to which they
l>eloflg.

LITERARY SOCIETIES.

These societies appear to accord well with the pecu-
liar character of the French nation. Of the almost
countless number that exist, I shall mention only
the following : —

Digitized by Google

.- THE ROTAI4 JLCADKinr* $97

AeadSmie Moi/ale, ou tlnsHtut. The Royal Aca-
demy, or the Institute.
Palais des Beaux Arts, F 4.
The justly-acquired reputation of this institution,
and the obligations which French and European hte-
rature owe to it, are universally acknowledged.

It was established during the reign of Louis XIV.,
and is composed of the most distinguished philoso-
phers, literary characters, and artists of France, and
corresponds with the learned of every nation.

It is divided into four classes, which may be con-
sidered as forming so many distinct societies, llie
vacancies are supplied by the nomination of the re-
maining members, but it is necessary that the king
should approve of the election. Each member has a
salaiT of 1500 francs per annum, and the costume
which they wear at their meetings is black bordered
with green silk. Each class has its separate meet-
ings ; but four times in every year the whole aca-
demy assembles, and a general report is made of
the labours and progress of the institution.

The hall in which the general meetings are held
has been already described. See Palais des Beaux
Arts,

The first division, CBMedAcad^mte des Sciences,
has for its objects natural philosophy, chemistry, and
the mathematics. It is composed of 65 members, and
100 corresponding members. It holds its sjjtings
every Monday, from three to five o'clock. The first
sitting, in the month of January, is public, and it has
another public sitting in March. A prize of 3000
francs is awarded for the most useful discovery. Sir
Joseph Banks, and Drs. Herschel and Jenner, were
made honorary members of this plass.

The second division, called Acadhnie Frangaise,
is employed on French literature and the French
2M

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lai^iiee. Its immb^ is feiiy> It iioldi itf siMifligB
every 'niursday, mt the same labours. Its public sitting
is held on the 24th of AiHil» and a prize of 1500
fiuncs is awaixled. The sittings for the recepti(m of
members are also public.

The third class, called Acadimie des Inscriptwfu
et Belles Lettres, is occupied by history and ancient
literature. It consists of forty meml)ers, eight asso-
ciates, and sixfr^ correspondents. Its private meet-
ings «re every Friday, from three to five. The annual
public meeting is July 1st, when a prize of 150t
mncs is given to the successful candidate. Major
Bennel was made an honorary member of ttiis divi-
sion.

The fourth, called Acadimie des Beaux Arts, is
devoted to the fine arts. It consists of forty-one
members, eight associates, and thirty-six corre-
spondents. It meets every Saturday, from three to
five o'clock, and its public sitting is on the 1st of
October; piizes are then distributed for the best
production in painting, sculpture, architecture, and
musical composition. The successful candidate mi^
likewise travel to Rome, at the expense of govern-
ment, and spend a certain time there in the prosecu-
tion of his studies. West was an honorary member
of this class.

The distribution of the prizes is accompanied vdOi
much ceremony, and the nail is crowded with spec-
tatorfe.

The Academy has a large room for a collection of
machines and models. It contains more than twenty
models of machines, intended to facilitate the esci^
of persons from the upper parts of buildings on fire.

AtlUnie des Arts. Athenseum of the Arts.
[At the Hoiel de VUle,} G 4.

This society was instituted in 1792, during the

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AreadM eonvolnoii of the Reveliitkm, wad hw usi*
fonnly maintani€d that pradenoe and moderation, ia
the course of its most active labours, which should
ever charaet^ize the proceedings of the iHends of
science and the arts. It embraces every scientific
and litiaraiy topic ; but its principal object is die en-
couragement oi the arts and manufactures. Medals
and crowns are distributed to the authors of useful
discoveries. No institution has more benefitted
society, or acquired higher or better-deserved repu-
tation.

The labours of the society are divided into six
classes, to the consideration of each of which parti-
cular days are devoted.

Literature and political economy oecnpy the Tues-
day; ^e pleasing and fine arts are discussed on
Wednesday; and the mathematics and physics on
Thursday.

AthMe Royal de Paris, Rc^al Athenaeum of Paris.

[Ruede Fahi8,Na.2.]

This institution was established in 1784, bv Pilatre
de Rozier, undeir the title of the *' Fn'st Musemn."
The extensive patronage which this infant society
I'eceived, induced the most eminent men in every de-
partment of science to unite themselves to it. It
then assumed the name of Lyceum ; and it was at
this period that La Harpe first read his admired lec-
tures on general literature, and DeMe occasion-
al^ recited his exquisite verses. It was afterwards
cafied the Athenaeum of Paris.

The annual subscription is 120 fi^nes, and tor this
are given lectures on every branch of science, with
occasional concerts.

The^bscribers have aceess to a valuable library,
and to weU-«ckoted cabinets oi natural history, mine-

2M8

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400 LITERARY SOOIBTIES^

ralogy, and chemistry. Spacious rooms are open from
nine in the morning till eleven at night, frequented by
the best company, and containing me newspapers of
the day, and every French and foreign journal.

Aihtm^e des Dames, Ladies' Athenaeum. .
[Place VendSme, No. 24] E S.

This society meets three times a week. The even-
ings are devoted to literature, music, dancing, and
social games. Gentlemen are admitted.

LITERARY SOCIETIES, &c.

Scientific institutions are much patronized in the
French capital ; but, as they are very numerous, it
would be extending the subject too far to enter into a
minute detail of the pursuits of each. The authcHr
wUl therefore content himself with giving the names
of the following, as well as the places where they
hold their respective meetii^ : —

Bureau des Longitudes^ Committee of Lon^tude,
at the Observatory. TTie labours of the learned
men who compose this society have for their object
constant astronomical observations at the Observa-
tory, and in the MiUtary School ; and for this pur-
pose they have at their disposal all the instruments
of which government is ])ossessed. They correspond
with other observatories in France and abroad. . They
are charged with the pubhcation of the " Connais-
sance des Temps," for the use of astronomers and
navigators, and with bringing to perfection the dis-
covery of the longitude, and the most scientific way
of making and recording astronomical and meteoro-
logical observations, &c.

The bureau is composed of two geometricians,
four astronomers, with four assistants, two retired
naval officers, a geographer, and three artists.

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UfM^A}^r looicvQtt, fee 401

SM&i dBncomagement Royal Society fbr the
Encouragement of National Industrv, Rue du Bac,
42. This society, which has not existed more than
tweniy-iive years, com^^ses most of th^ ministers of
state, many public functionaries, the first men of pro-
perty, and the most celebrated literary characters.
Its object is to second the efforts of government, for
the improvement of French manufactures, agrictdture,
and industry. At an annual meeting in July num&>
rous prizes are distributed. The more private meet-
ings of the society are held on every alternate W^

Soei^U Roycde de MSdecme. Royal Medical
Society. At the Ecole de M^decine. The object of
this society, whichwasre<^<established by Louis XVIII.
in 1820, is the improvement of every branch of the
healing art. It is composed of eighty-four academi-
cians, who are chosen from the most eminent phy-
sicians and surgeons.

SodiU d" Agriculture, Agricultural Society. At
the Hotel de Y ille. It is composed of fifty resident
memba^, thirty French, and twenty foreign asso*
elates. It is tlie centre of correspondence for all the
agricultural societies in the kingdom, and is occupied,
under the superintendence of the minister of the in-
terior, with every thing relative to the improvement
of agriculture. It hol& its sittings on the first and
third Wednesday in every month.

The SoeiHi Koyaie Acadhnique des Sciencei was
dissolved by the government in 1826.

SociHe des Antiquaires de France holds its sit-
.tmgs at seven o'clock, on the 9th, 19th, and 29th of
each month, at the Hdtel de Yille. It was (»iginally
called the Celtic Acadony.

Soditi pour Vhutruetiof^ Elhtentaire, Rue du
Bae, No. 42, hoUdfi ila sittmga twice a week.

8MS

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402 > LITXRART SOOnmBB, &0.

SodiU Grammaticaley Rue des Bons Enfans,
No. 34.

Soci^U des Amis des Arts, Rue Berg^re, aux
Menus Plaisirs. This society is composed of an in-
definite number of members. It was re-established in
1815, and its principal object is the promotion of the
arts.

SociiU des NSgocians. The Merchants' Society.
Rue Richelieu, No. 1245.

Sodete Asiatique, Rue de Taranne, No. 12. This
society has been recently established with a view to'
promote the study of tne Oriental languages. Its
sittings are held on the first Monday in each month,
at 7 o'clock.

Soci^U des Bonnes Lettres, Rue Neuve St. Au-
ffustin, No. 1 7. This is similar in its design to the
Ath6n6e de Paris. It was formed in 1820.

Sodite AcaMmique de tEcriiure, Rue Quincam-
poix, No. 32, was founded in 1799, and re-organised
in 1811.

Soditi de Ghgraphie holds its sittings on the first
and third Friday of each month. It mamtains a cor-
respondence with various learned societies.

Sod4t4 Linn^ene, was originally founded in 1788,
and re-established in 1 82 1 .

^odeti Fhilomatiqtw, No. 6, Rue d'Anjou, Fau-
bourg St. Grermain, consists of about fifty members,
many of whom are also members of the Institute.

SodSti Acad^iqtte dEcriture, No. 22, Rue Quin-
campoix, consists of persons distinguished for fine
penmanship.

There are other societies, whose ambition appears
to be limited to the promotion of gaiety, wit, and
good-fellowship. A society of this kind,' tamed Les
Soupers de Momus, meets on the -first Friday in
every month, at the house, formerly Beauvillier's, Rue

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asjiDiNO mooMt. . 403 .

lUdielieu. This society combines Hie two assoda- .
tions called Les Diners du Vaudeville and Le Cayeau
Moderae.

READING ROOMS, &c.

There are numerous cabinet43 or reading-rooms,
where the stranger may peruse the papers of the day.
At M. Rosa's, in the court of the Palais Royal, he
may occupy lumself for three hours in readmg the
journals, ever^ periodical publication, and the most
interesting fugitive pamphlets, for the small sum of
six sous. The monthly subscription is more econo-
mical.

If to these he wishes to add the journals of his
own country, and the works of the most esteemed
British writers, he will find them at M. Galignani*s,
18, Rue Vivienne, where an English daily newspaper
is published.

At M. Foulon's, 3, Rue des Francs Bourgeois St.
Michel, he will, in addition to the French and foreign
journals, have access to a well-compiled and numerous
library, containing eveiy established work on every
'Subject of literature or philosophy.

The best circulating libraries are, M. Renard's, 12,
Rue Caumartin, and 16, Rue de TUniversit^, and
M. Lenoir's, Rue de Richelieu.

Le Salon Litt^raire, in the Palais Royal* is ^ good
reading-room and circidating library. The terms are
60 francs a year, 15 francs a quarter, or 6 francs a
month. For a single sitting 6 sous.

Mme. Collie has an establishment at No. 17, Rue
de la Paix, where are kept a regular series of English
newspapers, magazines, and new publications.

M. Bossange, P^re, (removed from Rue Toumon,)
has a splendid establishment at No. 60, Rue de Richer

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4M FAin mtm^jonam.

hmi, wlierelhebeflFiiBndipablkadoii8ma]rb6jpf>a-
eured. The eoUection is very extea^ye ; Mid, from
the well-known respectability of M. Bossange» Ei^iah
travellers maybe assured they cannot make their pur-
chases at a more desirable place. M. Bossange has
constant commutneation wi^ Messrs. Barthes and
Lowell, Great Marlborough Street, London, and can
proeure any Bnglxsh pokdication at the ^u»*test no-
tk». In addition to the retail department, M. B. has
very extensive wholesale dealings with the prindpal
booksellers in Europe and America.

M. BMidiy, Rue da Coq BL Honor^, and M.
Lance, Rue Croix des Petits Champs, No. 50, have
extensive colleetieiui of English, Italmn, German, and
Spanish works.

The celebrated establishments of Messrs. Didot are
weU worthy the notice of strangers; also that of
MesR^. Treuttel and Vfurtz, No. 17, Rue de Botir^
bon, who have litowise aa establistunei^ in liondoa,
and another at Strasbourg.

PARIS NEWSPAPERS.

Oalignani's Messenger, in English, 46 fr. for 9 months ;
25 fr.for 3 months ; 9 fr. 50 c. for 1 month; 5 fr. for 15
days. No. 18, Rue Vivienne.

Galignani's Weekly Register, 14 fr. for t moathf. No.
18^ Rae Vivienne.

Moniteur Universel^ 98 fr. for 3 months. No. 6^ Rue
dtB Poiterins.

Journal de Paris, 18 fr. for 3 months. No. 1 1, Rue de
« la Monnaie.

Journal des D^bats, IS fr. for S months. No. Vt, Rue
des PrStres St. Germain TAuxerrois.

Gazette de Prance, 18 fr. for 3 months. No. 5, Rue
Christine.

La Quottdienne, 18 fr. for 8 months. No. 8, Rue
ffetiTe des Boas EnHias.

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PABIS MAOAZnCBf. 405

Le CoDttittetioimel, 1 8 fr. iot 8 BioiUis. No. 191, Rii«
Montmarlre.

Jouraal du Commerce, 18 fr. for 8 months. No. 10,
Rue St. Marc.

Courrier Fran^ais, 18 fr. for 8 months. No. 14, Rue
Tlquetonne.

Le Drapeau Blanc, 18 fr. for 8 months. No. 18, Rae
des Filles St. Thomas.

L'Aristaiqne, 18 fr. for 8 months. No. 12,' Roe des
Filles St. Thomas.

L'Etoile (evening paper), 18 fr. for 8 months. No. 29,
Rue Croix des Petits Champs.

Le Pilote (evening paper), 18 fr. for 8 months. No.
8, Hue de la Sourdiiie.

La Pandore, 15 fr. for 8 months« No. 15, Rae du Fau-
bourg Montmartre.

Le Diable Boiteux, 15 fr. for 8 months. No. 9, Rue
Joquelct.

Le Corsaire, 15 fr. for 8 months. No. 4, Rue du Fau-
bourg Montmartre.

Courrier des Spectacles, 15 fr. for 8 months. No. 167,
Rue Montmartre.

L*Ami de la Religion et du Roi (twice a week,) 8 fr*
for 8 months. No. 35, Quai des Augustins.

Journal des Maires, (three times a week), 19 fr. for 8
months. Rue de Savoie.

Journal des Campagnes, 8 fr. 50 c. for 8 months. No.
13,RuedeC16ry.

Journal General des Affiches, 16 fr. for 8 months.
No. 55, Rue de Crenelle St. Honor6.

Affiches Parisiennes, 13 fr. for 8 months. No. 94,
Place du Louvre.

PARIS MAGAZINES.

Galignani's Magazine and Paris Monthly Review, pub-
lished on the 15th of each month, 1 1 fr. for 8 months.
No. IS, Rue Vivienne.

Nouvelles Annales de Voyage, by Eyries and Malte«
Brun^ monthly^ 80 fr. a year. No. 20, Rue St. Marc,

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4m '•^M uMoAVHrn^

BifalioCli^e IMiTeiielU dei 0ei#M«i^ Belle* Z^l^res
and ArU^ monthly^ 54 fr. a year. No. 60> Rue de Btcl^
lifa.

Journal d'EducatioQ, monthly^ 18 fr. a year. No. fti^
Bve Dauphine,

La Revue Encyclop^dique, monthly, 48 fr. a year*
No.lS.Ruad'fiafer.

Journal des Voyages et de la Geographic, monthly, SA
lir. a yaar. No* 9, Quai Malaqaak.

Bulletin de la Soci^t^ d*£ncouragement pour Flndof*
trie Natioaale, monthly. No* 7, Rue de TCperon .

Mercuredu 19°^ Side le, every Saturday, 15 fr. for 3
Montha. No.S, Rue Joquelet.

Bulletin Universel des Sciences et de nndustrie, by
Baron Feruisao, monthly, 186 fr. ayear. No* 3, Rue de
I'Abbaye.

Annales des Arts et Manufactures, monthly, 89 fr. a
year. No. 1 1, Rue de la Monnaie.

Journal G^n^ral de rimprimerie et de la Librairie,
every- Saturday, 20 fr. a year. No. 5, Rue Christine.

Journal G6n^ral de la Litt^mture Etrangeie, monthly,
15 fr. a year. No. 17, Rue de Bourbon.

Joamal G^^ml de la Litt^rature de France, monthly,
15 fr. a year. No. 11, Rue de Bourbon.

Archives du Cbrittianiame, 6 fr. a year. Not 6» Rue
de rOratoire.

Journal General do M^decine, monthly, 9S fr. a year.
Rue des Mathurins St. Jacques.

. Gaielte de Sanf^, every 10 days, 18 fir. a year. No. S2,
Rue Dauphine.

, Journal des Sciences Medicales, monthly, 20 fr. for 6
months. No. S, Rue de PExsole de MMecine.

Journal de Pharmacie, monthly, 15 fr. a year. No* S2,
Rue Dauphine.

Journal de Guitare, monthly, 16 fr. ayear. No. 120,
&ae MoBtraartre..

Journal if Euterpe^ or Nouveau Journal do Chant
monthly* 13 fr. a year. No. 108, Rue St. Uonor6.

Jonraal des Savani, raoBthJy, 8» fr# a year. No. IT,
Rue ^Bourbon.

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]iiN09Aciir^tnM« 40>

AnnaleB de PAgri«uliui« Francaite, Monthly, 95 fr, a
year. No. T, Rue de rEpeion.

Annale^ de Chimie et de Physique, monthlv, S4 fr. a
year. No. 8, Rue de Sorbonne.

Annalei de Math^matiquea, monthly, 81 fr, a vear.
No. 19, Rue du Jardinet.

Journal Militaire, monthly, SO fr. a year. No. 9. Roa
Dauphine. ^ ' * ^

Journal des Dames elides Modes, every five days. 9 fr
for 8 months. No. 18S, Rue Montmartre.

Petit Courrier des Dames, every five days, 9 fr. fbr 9
months. No. 95> Rue Mesl^.

L'Observatenf des Modes, 9 fr . fer 8 months. No. 1 79,
Rue Montmartre.

MANUFACTORIES, ^.

Man^facture Roy ale des Gobelins. Royal Manu-
factory of the Gobelins.
[At the corner of Rue Mouffetard, No. 270.] G 7.
This manufactory stands at the southern extremity
of Paris, on the margin of the little river Bi^vre, so
well known fi'om the numerous mills of every de-
scription which are set in motion by its current. It
was originally founded by one Gobelin, a dyer, from
Rheims, who established himself at Paris in the
reign of Francis I. He, however, confined himself
to sunply dyeing the worsted. The celebrated Col-
bert established the grand work, the weaving of
tapestry, m imitation of that of Flanders ; and it is
but justice to say, that the t&pestry of the Gobelins
now inMtely surpasses that of wMch it was at first
an humble unitation.

The principal subjects on which their looms are
employed, are copies of the most celebrated paintingi^
of the Frendi and Italian schools ; and for brilliancy
of colour, and delicacy of eicecution, thdr produc*

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40S MAMDlfA0T0B»B8i

tions are often not far infmor to the 0]%inalcf.^ The
simplicity of the machinery, and the ^randeiir of the
building, are well worthy the attention of the ki-
quisitive traveller.

A single piece of tapestry sometimes requires the
labour of two years, and has cost nearly 300/. ster-
ling ; even then the manufacturers are inadequately
remunerated for their skill, industry, and expense.

The manufactoiy now belongs to government, and
is supported by the nation.

A dye-house at the back of the manufactoiy de-
serves the attention of the chemist ; and a school is
estabhshed here to instruct the workmen in the prin-
ciples of their art.

A similar manufactory is founded at Beauvais, and
is said to rival the parent institution.

Open on Saturdays only, from ttoo to six o'clock.
Admissiony however, may he obtained on other days,
by a special order of the Minister de la Maison du
Roi, at the Tuileries, who must be applied to by
letter.

At Quai Billy, No. 30, is La Savonnerie, a. ma-
nufactory of carpets, on nearly the same principle,
and of very great ingenuity. Open every day from
10 to 1.

The productions of these elegant establishments
are necessarily confined to the houses of the most
opulent classes of society.

Manufacture de Glaces. Manufactory of Plate

Glass.
[No* 24, Rue de ReuUly, Faubourg Si. Antoine.'] I 5.

In this establishment are polished and p«*fected those
large plates which are formed at St. Gobin and Cher-
bourg. Colbert established this manufactory also ;
prior to which, plate glass was only to be procured

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]IANUFA0TO1tli«« 40^

at Venice ; but now the largest sizes are the produc-
tion of French artisans. In his time, indeed, the
manufactory of St. Gobin was confined to blown
glass, the greatest size of which did not exceed teh
or twelve square feet ; but since M. de N6hou has
invented a method of casting the plates, they are
sometimes produced ten feet in length, and six or
seven in breadth, containing sixty or seventy square
feet, and valued at 250/. or 300/. About 800 work-
men are constantly employed here.

Admission may be obtained on Saturday, from tvbo
till night.

Manufacture Roy ale des Porcelaines, Royal Por-
celain Manufactory.

[SIvres, near Paris.]

The exquisite productions of this establishment are
well known. A few of them have found their way to
Great Britain, particularly the service of china pre-
sented to Lord Liverpool by Buonaparte. In de-
licacy of execution and brilliancy of colomr, except
perhaps in a deep rich purple, some of the English
manufactories equal that at Sdvres. In proof of this,
I need only refer to the admirable performances that
decorate the windows of some of the china warehouses
in Bond-street, Piccadilly, and Coventry-street I
would, however, strongly recommend the traveller
to visit the porcelain works at Sevres, and can pro-
mise him the highest gratification. One of the most
remarkable oljects is a china table, on which the
royal palaces are delineate.

Strangers are admitted every day except Sundays ^
from 10 to 4, to the show-rooms, but not to the
workshops; the latter can only be seen by (plica-
tion to M. Brongniart, the director. No, 71 1 R^ ^^
Dominique St» wrmain^ in Paris,

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410 1IANWA0T0RIB8,

Maniifacture Roy ale des Tabacs. Jloyal Snuff

MaBufaotoiy,

[Quai des InvaUdei^ No. S9.]

Thb manufacture of snuff is confined eKclusiyely to
the IVench Government. Their jHrivikge was tO:
have expired in 1926, but in the session of 1834, it
was extended to 1830. The number of workmoi
employed here is about five hundred, and the pro-
duce of their labours is sold in Paris at two hundred
and forty shops.

PRIVATE MANUFACTORIES.

Manufacture de Porcelaine de Pierre Tharaud.
Although the manufactory is at Limoges, we have
inserted it here, because there is an extensive depdt
established at Paris, No. 19, Rue Bergdre, Faubourg
Montmartre, where the most beautiful specimens of
porcelain are constantly to be seen. The establish-
ment here is under the direction of M. S. Guillet.

Manufacture de Porcelaine de Messrs. Dilh ei
Guerard, No. 137, Rue du Temple. This manu-
factory resembles that of Sdvres, and is not much
inferior to it.

Manufacture de Faience de Husson (formerly
Olivier's), No. 39, Rue de la Roquette, Faubourg St.
Antoine. This establishment resembles that of W^ge-
wood in the British Islands, and in some respects
equals, or even surpasses it. It is jnincipally cele-
brated for its imitation of Etruscan; and other
ancient vases, and for porcelain figures, which are-
accurate copies in miniature of some of the most
exquisite statues of former times. Mr. H. has also a
collection of minerals, which is shown to strangers.

MoMifacture des Tapis Velout6s dAubusson, No,
3, Rue des Yieilles Aodriettes. The oaipets made-

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bare ar« moderate in prke« lUid netrljf equal in
quality to those of La Sayonnerie.

Manufacture de Porcelams de Meart, Darter Rue
de la lUKjuette, and Depot, No. 21 luid 22, Palais
Royal. This is another splendid e^tabUsbm^it for
the manufacture of china.

Manufacture dArmes. Mani^kctory of Arms.
The finest establishment of this kind in Europe was
that of Versailles, where the stranger was muoh gra-
tified by inspecting the various departments of the
manufactory, and Sie celerity with which the artisans
completed the. several engines of destructive warfiare.

It was destroyed by the Prussians on their second
occupation of Paris. It is, however, again re-e«*
tablished, but not on its former scale of magnificence.

The Prussians likewise destroyed the manufiEictmy
of powder at Essone, and carried off all the machines
and implements, some of which were of a new and
improved construction.

Mantrfacture dei Papiers Feints, Manu£M;toiy
of Paper Hangings. At the comer of Rue Louis le
Grand, and the Boulevard des Italiens. Two hun*
dred workmen are daily employed in this manufao*
tory, who execute, in the j^eatest perfection, every
ornament resembling painting, sculpture, or archi*
lecture. These productions are in much request, for
adorning public chambers, galleries, and theatres.
The fancy pi^pers of the most celebrated London
makers are greatly inferior to those at Paris.
Strangers are allowed to visit this mamifad&ry.

Manufacture des Cristaux, Manufkctory of
Crystals. The art of engraving on glass has never
been carried to higher perfection thim in P$uis. The
principal establishments are those of M. Ohagot^
No. 1 1 , Boulevard Poissonni^re ; Mme. Veuve J}9$*
amaud Charpentier, au Palais Roy^ No. 163 $
waA M. FhiHd^r, Rue de 3ondy, Ho. lo.

8 N 2

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418 HAOXNST-*CIOACfflCS.

Magasin de Sculpture^ Sculpture Gallery; Rue
du Faubourg St. Martin, ^o, 142. This is well
entitled to the attention of visiters, and contains a
choice collection of statues copied l^m the antique,
columns, vases, tombs, $£c. .

MODES OF CONVEYANCE, &c.

Fiacres, Hackney-Coaches.

Thxsb are almost as numerous in Paris as in the
British metropolis ; most of them are remarkabty
clean, but the horses are more wretched than in
London. They are hired either by the course (a la
course), i.e., as often as the vehicle is stopped, or by
the hour (d theure.) The fare is 35 sous (1«. bid.)
per course, whether it be a quarter of a mile or three
miles ; or 45 sous (Is, lOld.) for the first hour, and
35 sous (Is, 5id.) per hour afterwards. From mid-
night to 6 o'clock m the morning, the fare is doubled.
These coaches are not obliged to carry mcme than
four persons and a child, nor to take anv heavy lug-
gage. If the coach be hired by time, tne first hour
must be paid for, whether it is entirely occupied or
not ; but it is not necessary to pay for more of the
second, or of any succeeding hour, than has actually
elapsed. If a coach is eng£^;ed to go to the theatres,
or to any place of public amusement, it is custon^ary
to pay the coachman jvt the time of starting, in order
to avoid delay in alighting.

These vehicles are strictly regulated by the police,
and the least complaint, whether personally or by
letter, for exorbitant chaise or uncivil behaviour, is
promptly attended to. Should the stranger inad-
vertently leave any thing valuable^ or the most

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cjuimiQsam* 4lt

iMng artMe, k a ifiaore* h6 hat rnilf to go id th«
Prefecture of Police, Biureau des Yoitures Publujaet,
Rue <^udiiegaud» No. 31» on the following mormng,
even without knovrng the number of the coaoh, am
if the article be not already deposited at the Of6c%
it will be speedily restored to him.

Fiacres were so called from the residence of the
^yriginal proprietor, who lived at the Hotd St. Fiacre,
m the Rue St Martin.

Cabriolets, One-Horse Chwses, with a Head.

Op these there are 765 ; thejr are generaEy better
horsed than the fiacres, and will be usually jn^erred
by the single traveUer. - Th6y are subject to the
•ame regulations aa. the fiacres, but the. fare is only
30 sous (U. di/.) for the course, or 35 sous (1«, 5^4,)
for the first hour, and 30 sous per hour alterwardiiv
There are, however, cabriolets of a superior deser^^
tion, the fares of which are rather dearer. It if
ususd, in both the fiacre and the cabriolet, to give
the coachman a tiifling pour-boire (somethiBg le
drink), but nothing can be legally demanded. Two
^ three sous are considered sufficient. The water-
man at the stand likewise expects a sou.

The travell^ should be informed, that the regu-
lations respecting the fare of the cabric^ts as well m
#f the fiaeves extend onl^^ to the barriers } and that,
should he prolong his drive beyond tbem, he will be
completely at the mercy of the driver, unless he has
previously made a specific a^ement with him.

Other cabriolets, and carnages of various descrip**
tions, stand in different parts of Paris, and carry
passengers to the villages m the enviromr. The tra-
veller should endeavour to join two other persons
when he intends gohig by one of these cabriolets, or
be will periiaps be detained some time. There is no
teed price, but tiie competition keeps it svM^tm^

3 N 3

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414 8TlaB8«..

moderate. On festivals, however, advantage is takto
of tlie eagerness of the Parisians, and the fare is con-
siderably enhanced. Cabriolets for Versailles, St.
Grermain, St. Cloud, and most places to the west c^
Paris, are stationed -at the end of the quay of the
Tuileries ; those for St. Denis, Montmorency, and
the villages on the north, at the Rue d'Enghien, Rue
St. Denis, and Rue Mably ; to Vincennes, St. Maur,
Oharenton, and the east, at Rue Amelot, and Rue
de la Rdquette, near the Porte St. Antoine ; and to
Sceaux, Bourg la Reine, and the south, at Rue
d'Enfer.

Stages to the Environs,

For Versailles every hour from 7 in the morning
to 9 in the evening, from the Rue Rivoli, No. 4. — —

Several times a day from Rue de Rohan, No. 6.

Every hour from half-past 7 in the morning, to half-
past 8 in the evening, from Ruede Rivoli, No. 1.

For St. Germain en Laye, every hour from 7 in
the morning till 8 in the evening, wom Rue de Ro-
han, No. 2.

For St. Denis, every hour, from Rue du Faubourg
St. Denis, No. 13.

For Choisy, at 9 in the morning, and at 6 in the
evening, from the Place Dauphine.

For*^ceaux, from the Place St. Michel, eveiy
day at 9, 11, 4, and 8, from 1st November to 31st
March, and every hour during summer.

For Villeneuve St. Geoi^es, every morning and
evening, from Rue Geoffiroy T Asnier.

Diligences, Stage Coaches, ^.

There are numerous coach-offices in Pari^, but the
principal is that of the Messageries Royales (Royal
Diligences), Rue Notre Pame des Victoires, No. 22.

dbyCoogle

This establishment has public carriages (m all the
roads of France. It is customary to pay, on being
booked, one-half of the fare, and a tudtet is given
indicating the day and hour of departure.

It is necessary that the person's passport should be
obtained before the place is taken, because the money
paid is never returned.

There are other establishments of Diligences for
particular roads, the names of which maybe found
m the Almanack du Commerce, or Paris Directory,
which is published every year. Those having dih-
gences to Rouen, Dieppe, and Havre, are the follow*
ing:-—

Establishment St, Simon, No. 24, Rue du Bou-
loy. Rouen, 15 fr. inside ; 12 fr. cabriolet. — Havre,
27 fr. inside ; 25 fr. cabriolet. — ^Dieppe, 23 fr. inside ;
18 fr. cabriolet.

Sets off every day at five in the mommg and seven
at night.

They go in eleven hours to Rouen, and in 24 to
Havre. The morning coach goes direct to Havre ;
the evening coach is changed at Rouen.

Establishment Lebourgeois, Rue de la Jussienne.
Rouen, 15 fr. inside; 12 fr. outside in front ; 12 fr.
behind.

Havre, 27 fr. inside ; 25 fr. outside in front ; 20
fr. outside behind.

Dieppe, 23 fr. inside ; 18 fr. outside.

They set off at six o'clock every evening, and at
midnight. They go in twelve hours to Rouen.

From this office also the Union coaches go to Bou-
logne, Calais, and London.

Establishment of the Jumelles, 9, Rue de Bouloy.
The carriages csXledjumelles (twins), set off at seven
o'clock every evening, and perform the journey to
Rouen in 11 hours.

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4U FAMA08 BOAVS.

Bonen, 18 fr. inside f 14 fr« outside.
Ha:Tre, 30fr. ditto; 24 ditto.
Dieppe, 26 fir. ditto; 21 ditto.

Hotel des Fermes, Rue du Bouloy, No. 24. From
this ofiice coaches go to Abbeville, Boulogne, Calais,
and London.

Hotel de Bretagfie, Rue du Bouloy, No. 7. Hence
coaches go to Rouen. Havre, Dieppe, and BiightoQ.

Hotel des Gaules, Rue Coqheron, No. 11. Coaohes
for Roura, Dieppe, and Havre ; for Boulogne, Ca*
lais, and London.

MAIL COACHES.

Tbesm light and commodious vehicles are made to
cany four persons, and are supplied with horses by the
post-houses, so that they travel quickly. Each pas-
senger may cany a sac de nnit, or portmanteau,
weighing 15 kilograms. The price of each place is
1 fr. 5 0 c. per posC and 75 cents per post to the guides.
Places may be booked at the Hotel des Postes,
whence the coaches set out every day at half past six.

Batelets, ou Oocytes ctEau, Passage Boats.

On the upper part of the river, passage boats are
established, fen* the conveyance of persons to various
places on the baiiks of the Seine or the Mame. The
office connected with them is at No, 6, Quai Dau-
phin ou Bethune lie St. IiOuis. They start from No.
8, Port St. Paul, at 8 in the morning in winter, and
7 in summ^.

A boat likewise starts from the foot of the Pont
Royal, for St. Cloud, every day at 10 o'clock, during
ttie fetes at that village, in September. The passage
occupies about two hours : tne company is usuaSf
above the lower class ; and tiie scenery of the river

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is delightful. The fare is : 16 sous. The watermen
are forbidden to take more than sixteen persons.

A steam-boat also carries passengers to St. Cloud,
at this period.

Steam-boats are also employed in conveying mer-
chandise between Rouen and Paris.

Commissionnaires. Porters.

This useful class of persons is very numerous at
Paris, and may be seen in almost every street. Tb^
are generally honest ; but the visiter will do well to
select those who wear a number, which is given them
by the police. As there is no fixed price for their
services, an agreement should be made first. The
usual sums given are, for taking a message, fi^om 50
to 75 cents, according to the distance ; for carrying
a load, fi-om 75 cents to a fi*anc ; for working several
hours in a warehouse or dwelling-house, 80 cents per
hour.

Fcdlots, Torch-bearers.

4.T all hours of the night, persons are seen in the
streets of Paris with torches or lanterns. Thware
regularly appointed and paid by the police. Their
principal office is to observe the actions of susi)ected
persons ; and they dehver a faithful bulletin, in the
morning, of every thing that has taken place during
the night.

To the stranger they offer material assistance. If
he should have lost his way at night, when no fiacres
are on the stands, he may confidently commit him-
self to the care of one of these men, who, for a
trifling gratuity, will conduct him the nearest way to
his hotel. He should, however, be careful that there
is nothing suspicious in his appearance or manner,
for immolate intelligence of the hotel to which he

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418 TBI FKBKCIH 8TAGFE.

hu been conducted will be given to the police, and
he may possibly be roused by a domiciliaiy visit be*
fort the morning.

THEATRES,

AND

PLACES OF PUBLIC AMUSEMENT.

It has alreadv been stated that the French are a
dramatic people. The numerous theatres, which are
open and crowded every night, and the superior man-
ner in which the business of each theatre is conducted,
are sufficient proofs of this. At one period of the
Revolution not less than thirty houses were nightly
filled ; and it is said that two thousand new pieces
were offered to the public in one year, of which not
more than a twentieth part survived the first repre-
sentation. Government, at length, prudently inter-
fered, and limited the number of the great theatres to
four, and the minor houses to six.

The traveller will not fail to observe the superior
attention which the French pay to the genuine sim-
plicity and legitimate dignity of the drama. No false
or meretricious allurements are employed to fill tiie
houses, or extort applause.

Even in the construction of the play-bill there is
somewhat to commend. It contains a simple an-
nouncement of the performance, with the names of
the actors, but not one of those contemptible quack-
eries, and sometimes absolutely false assertions,
which would be discreditable to a minor house, and
which excite mingled surprise and disgust when re-
sorted to by the managers of a national theatre. In
the gettink'Up of the pieces, the memory of the
author ana the good sense of the audience are not
outraged by unneoessaxy and often iD*plaoed pa«

Digitized by Google

TBI VftSKCH tTA«K. 410

geants ; no quadruped performeM ; but the dirtctor
of the theatre relies on the sterling interest of the
piece, and the unadulterated dramatic taste of the
spectators.

Possibly this may be carried too far. Pomp and
show may be too much disregarded ; and it may be
forgotten that the intensity of interest and feeling
may occasionally be pleasantly relieved by a brilliant
and not inappropriate spectacle. The Englishman
will probably complain, that at. the French theatre,
(]Le Theatre Fran^ais,) although every attention it
paid to the classical propriety of the scenery, yet it is
seldom magnificent.

In another respect the French stage is certainly
superior to the English. Very few of the plays have
an immoral tendency ; and vulgar and gross double*
entendres would excite universal disapprobation. It
is a problem which I leave to the metaphysician or
the moralist to elucidate, that, while in France all
the principles of jjrivate and domestic virtue are
plainly and proverbially loose, their theatrical pieces
fcreathe the purest sentiments, and inculcate the no-
blest maxims ; yet in England, where the domestic
virtues have established their peculiar empire, the
moral of many of the most favourite dramas is worse
than equivocal, and female delicacy is too often ire-
(]|uently shocked with the most vulgar and palpable
ribaldry.

Connected with this is another circumstance, the
explanation of which I likewise leave to others. In
England, where female chastity is justly considered
as the sex's point of honour, sm. a lapse from it is
never, can never be forgiven, the managers of the
national theatres have buSt accommodations expressly
for the most degraded class of society. Th^ nightly
encourage scenes offensive to delicacy, and subver-
sive of good moralsi and may truly be said to share^

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4M THI VRSKOH STAfitt.

not only in the gains, but in the very business of the
brothd-keepier. In France, however, where fidelity
to the marriage vow is little regarded, — ^where the
female who has forgotten the duty which she owed
her husband, and mshonours herself^ is on that ac-
count treated with no contempt, and excluded from
no society, — the theatres are perfectly free from the
intrusion, or, at least, from tiie disgusting conduct
of the women of the town.

The behaviour of a French audience forms a
fitriking contrast with the noisy inattention which a
British theatre too frequently discovers. Notwith-
standing the usual volubility and the natural fri-
volity of the Parisians; instead of that incessant
buzz, occasionally sweUing into a hoarse and gra«
ting murmur, by which the lower tones of the actor
are overpowered, the attention of those who would
hsten distracted, and the charm and illusion of the
piece destroyed, the most perfect silence pervades the
whole house, like that which the soul- subduing
O'Neill occasionaUy produced within the walls of
Covent-Garden.

The representation of French comedy is infinitely
superior to that of tragedy, and seems to be a faith-
ful picture of the manners of former and better times ;
and the actors, much to their credit, form them-
selves on this school. They are free from grimace
and affectation ; and while they present a strong con-
trast with the character and manners of the present
age, they depict every thing that used to be engag-
ing and amiable in the French people. The combes
are equally devoid of the puling sentimentality and
the low buffoonery of many of the English plays. I
shall be understood as principally speaking of the
Th^dtre Fran^ais, to which, as to ttie theatres of
Drury-Lane and Covent-Garden in London, we must
look for the real dramatic character of the age ; yet.

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THB FRENCH STirOS. 431

even in the smaller houses, there are very few
pieces corresponding with our farces, nor do the per-
formers so insufferably overact every part of levity
or humour.

In French tragedy the traveller will probably feel
little interest. It is well known that all the French
tragedies are written in heroic verse ; and it may be
easily imagined, that, to an English ear at least, the
constant recurrence of the rhymes is completely de-
structive of theatrical illusion.

Another peculiarity of French tragedy is the un-
cons6ionable length of the speeches. The authors
are not content with the genuine and powerfiil ex-
pression of feeling in a few emphatic words, but
every idea is wire-drawn, and every sentiment is am-
plified to insufferable tediousness.

The consciousness of this defect has produced an
unnatural and offensive mode of acting in most of
the tragic performers. Either they endeavour to
conceal the tedious length of the speeches by a hur-
ried delivery, that leaves both the speaker and the
auditors breathless, or they strive to relieve the dull
uniformity of the protracted dialogue by affected
bursts of passion, which the subject does not autho-
rize, and which the performer cannot really feel.
The consequence of this is, that the French tragic
actors have a strangely mingled whining bombastic
enunciation, as ludicrous as it is fatiguing and dis-
gusting. Even Talma was not exempt from it, ex-
cept when he occasionally burst from his trammels,
and exhibited all his natural pre-eminence of strong
feeling, sublime conception, and interesting and har-
rowing representation.

The English tragedies are often distinguished by
variety of incident, and usually by strong delinea-
tion of character. A French tragedy is only- valued
as a display of elpquent declamation.
20

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4M TRS FREKCfl STAGE.

A ftw minor circumstances may be mentioned
before I proceed to a description of the difPerent
houses.

Sentinels, more numerous than at the English
theatres, guard all the avenues, and preserve order
in the interior. The visiters who await the opening
of the doors are regularly arranged, in files of two or
three abreast; and, although the crowd probably
consists of several hundreds, no pressure or inconve-
nience is felt, and every person is gently and quietly
admitted in his turn. At leaving the theatre, not
the smallest confusion or uproar takes place. No
person is permitted to call his carriage until he is ac-
tually waiting for it at the door ; and should not the
owner step into it in an instant, it is ordered off by
the police, and makes way for another. By this
arrangement, the company is dispersed in an incon-
ceivably short space of time.

No very profuse decoration is bestowed on the in-
terior Of the Parisian theatres ; and the mode of
lighting them has some resemblance to that at Ast-
ley's amphitheatre, which is now adopted at Covent-
Garden and Drury-Itane. An enormous chandelier,
or rather a double row of Argand lamps, is sus-
pended from the centre, which diffuses a gentle and
agreeable light through the whole house. The light
is not so brilliant as at the London theatres, nor so
favourable to the display of female beauty which the
boxes occasionally exhibit; but it mucn increases
the effect of tiie scenic representation.

Ladies are not admitted to the pit, except at some
of the minor theatres.

When a favourite actor appears at the commence-
ment of his part, he is usually greeted, as in Lon-
don, with enthusiastic applause ; but, according to
the proper etiquette of the French stage, he seems to
be perfectly insensible to the rapture with which he

jitizedbyGoOgli

TBB )>BBNOH BTAOJI. 493

is hailed. He returns not the slkhtest gesticulation,
but stands in the proper attitude of his character
until the acclamation subside, and he can be heard.
But, when he has finished his part, and is again sum-
moned on the stage once more to receive the ap-
plause of his admu'ers, when he is no longer me
monarch or the hero, he can, without impropriety,
express his genuine feelings, and he acknowledges
the kind patronage of the audience by many a bow
of respectful gratitude.

After the successful performance of a new pieot,
the name of the author is loudly demanded, and his
Appearance on the stage required. The moment he
is seen, the house rings with acclamation ; he replies
with a few humble congas, and retires.

The manner of remunerating the authors of sue*
oessful pieces deserves notice. They are idlowed a
certain share of the profits during life, and the bene-
fit descends to their family for ten years after their
decease. This regulation extends through every
theatre in the whole French empire. No provincial
manager can exhibit the production of a livmg authcnr
without making him this allowance. The proportion
depends on the celebrity of the author, and the spe*
CHnc agreement between him and the manager. It
sometimes amounts to one*sixteenth, but occasionally
does not exceed a sixtieth. A few authors, as Dacis
und Picard, derive a handsome revenue from this
source.

The boxes at the principal theatres usually contain
six persons ; but a small party may take any box on
paying for five places. A ticket is immediately
placed on the door, stating that it is let, and no
other person is permitted to mtrude during the whole
of the night, although the box may not be occupied
by more than two or three.

" 20«

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4i4 ROTAL ACABBMY OF WBSIC.

L" Opera, ou AccuUmie Roy ale de Musique.

The Opera, or Royal Academy of Music. •
[Rue Lepelletier, No* 10, Chaussee iTAntin.} F 2.

Cardinal Mazarin first introduced the Itahan
Opera into Paris, for the amusement of Ann of
Austria, in 1646.

The old opera-house having been closed in 1820,
in consequence of the assassination of the Duke de
Beny, the present edifice was erected, and opened
for the first time in August 1821. Its situation in
a narrow street is unfavourable, but the approaches
are easy, and there are three modes of egress for
visiters. The doors in Rue Lepelletier are appro-
priated to carriages, those in Rue Chauchat to fiacres,
and those in Rue Grange Batelidre to pedestrians.
The last are, however, admitted at all the doors.
The interior presents a far more splendid appearance
than any of the other theatres ; the eye bein^ quite
dazzled by the profusion of gilding, with which the
fluted columns that surround the house are deco-
rated. The ceiling is richly ornamented, and has
a large chandelier, lighted with gas, suspended from
its centre. On the right of the stage is a box, fitted
up in a magnificent style, for the Royal Family.

The saloon Is a handsome room 180 feet by 25,
and at each end are coffee-houses, conrnxunicatiDg
with open terraces.

This theatre presents a striking exception to the
remark which I have made on the want and variety
in the scenery. Nothing can exceed its splendour or
. beauty, or the adroitness with which it is managed.

The performances of the opera resemble those of
the house of the same name in London, except that
the poetry and music are frequently French. The
orchestra is decidedly superior to that in London,

Digitized by Google

ROYili AdADBXT 07 MITilO. 4$&

and probably unequalled in Europe j but the Binging
is scaroelv above mediocrity. This will be easily
accounted for, when it is recollected that few Italian
Mn^ers are engaged here.

For the beauty and splendour of the ballet, and
the excellepce of the dancing, the opers. is desaredly
celebrated. It is far superior to any thing which the
rest of Europe can afford. France is the native land
of dancing, and in her grand national thes^ we mav
expect to see the very perfection of the art ; nor wiU
that expectation be disappointed. The princ^Md
charm of the ballets of the opera consists in the uni-
form excdlence of all the performers ; but it is oidy
where dancing is an object of universal and pas-
sionate admiration, that we may hope to see almost
every figurante on the boards displaymgan elegance,
Agility, and knowledge of the art, which would appa-
jpentky enable her to 'fill the most important parts.

It must, however, be confessed, that the French
taste is much degenerated with respect to this art.
The effects of that degeneracy have reached every
Beighbouring country, and have weakened the inte-
rest and destroyed the illusion of the ballet. Grace-
fulness of attitude, and elegance of motion, are now
mere secondary considerations, or are completely
disregarded ; and tiie whole of the art is confined to
a display of agility and muscular power. Although
the dancer may have executed his part with inimi-
table grace, and most touchingly expressed the senti-
ments of his character, not one voice a]^lauds ; but
if, after having whirled himself round with incon-
ceivable velocity, until even the spectator becomes
giddy, he suddenly stops, and remains immovable on
one foot, the whole theatre rings with acekunations.

The most delightful ballets are those which reive-
s&ai rural scenes, and the adTeotxures of some rustic
j»hepberd and btt inamorata. The Fi«neh ^e to

2 o 3

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48i5 "raB FBrENCfl TASATRIB.

these a peculiar and exquisite interest. I would
advise my reader not to lose an opportunity of wit-
nessing them.

The Opera is open in summer on Mondays, Wed-
nesdays, and Fridays ; find in winter, on Sundays,
Wednesdays, and Fridays.

The prices of admission are — balcony, 10 francs; first
and second tier of boxes in front, amphitheatre and or-
chestra, 7 francs 10 sous. -First and second boxes at the
sides, and third boxes in front, 6 francs. Third tier of
boxes at the side, 4 francs. Fourth and fifth boxes, and
pit, 3 francs 13 sous. Number of places 1937. The
doors open at six^ and the opera commences at seven.

Thiatre Fran^ais, The French Theatre.
[Rue Richelieu, No, 6.] E 3.
This theatre was built from desi^s hy M. Louis, in
1799. It presents nothing strifing m its exterior.
Its peristyle towards the Rue Richelieu is of the
Done order, and is composed of eleven intercolumnia-
tions, forming ten arcades. Above are pilasters of
the Corinthian order, whose entablature is cut by a
range of small windows. The principal saloon is of
an elliptical form, and is surrounded by three rows
of Doric columns. The first row is coupled ; the
two others are isolated. The ceiling is adorned vnth
sculptiu-e and arabesque ornaments. Four staircases
ascend from the saloon to the different divisions of
the house. The theatre is sixty-nine feet wide, and
as many in depth, and the stage presents an opening
of tWrty-eight feet. The internal decoration of the
house is far from attractive, and consists principally
of a dingy yellow marble.

This theatre is consecrated to the exhibition of the
classical productions of the best French writers;
Racme, Comeille, Voltaire, Cr^biUon, and Moliere,
are th« sources from which its most .frequent and

>d by Google

ACAnHMI-E ROYALE DE MUSIQITE.

THEATRE ROYAL DE L'ODEON. 4Sfr

most approved performances are selected j and n^
attempt has been made to disgrace the munortal
productions of genius, by false ornaments, and con-
temptable pageants.

Tliis theatre is open every day.

Prices of ' admission. — Balcony, orchestra, and first
boxes, 6 francs 12 sous. First gallery and second boxes,
5 francs. Third boxes, 3 francs 6 sous. Pit, 2 francs 4
sous; and second gallery, 1 franc 16 sous. No. of
places 1522. The doors are here likewise opened at six
o'clock, and the entertainments commence at seven.

Thidtre Royal de V Odeon.
[Faubourg St. Germain, near the Luxembourg,'] F 5.

Is a handsome insulated building, situated at thse
junction of seven streets, and adorned with a portico
of eight Doric columns, the entablature of which is
carried round the four sides. The interior, which is
splendidly decorated, is lighted with gas. The ceiling
was painted by Daguerre, and represents the signs
of the Zodiac. There is a superb saloon, and the
^and staircase is much adnured. The mode of
mgress and egress is rendered peculiarly commodious
by eight doors, a larger number than that of any
other theatre in Paris. This house has been twice .
burnt ^own, first in 1799, and afterwards in 1818,
but was rebuilt the same year, and opened under the
sanction of a royal ordonnance.

The actors perform tragedies, comedies, comic
operas, and Italian operas, translated into French,
similar to those acted at the Theatre Fran9ais. Ma-
demoiselle Georges performs here.

This theatre is open every day.

Prices — ^First and second row of stage boxes, first
balcony, and first latticed boxes, 6 francs. First row of
boxes, pit boxes, second lattice'd boxes, and orchestra,
5 francs. Third row of stage boxes and first gallery, 4

>d by Google

426 TH8 00X10 OPX&A.

£r»Dci» Seeond row of open boiea^ 3 franci. Third anad
fourth row of boxes and second gallery* 2 francs. Pit,
1 franc 13 sous. AmpbitheatFe, 1 franc 5 sous* No. of
places 1756. The doors open at six^ and the perform-
ance begins at seven.

Thidtre Italien, or Opera Bt^a.
[Place de$ Jtaliens,] F 3.

Is a small but pretty theaA2«, appropriated to th«
paibrmance of Italian operas. It is supported Inr
government, and is attached to the grand French
opera. ^The performances take place on Tuesdays,
lliursdays, and Saturdays.

Prices. — First and second boxes, 10 francs; balcony
of first boxes and stalieg, 9 francs. Orchestra and pit-
boxes, 7 francs 10 sous. Balcony of second boxes and
third boxes, 5 francs. First gallery, 4 francs. Second
gallery and third balcony, 8 francs. Pit and third gal-
lery, S francs "6 sous. Amphitheatre, 1 frane 10 sous.
Mo. of places 1282. The doors are opened at seven,
and the performance commences at eight,

LOpira Comique. The Comic Opera, or Thddtre

Feydeau.

[Rue Feydeau, No. 19.] F 3.

The exterior of this theatre is almost concealed by
surrounding buildinffs. The interior much resembles
that of the French theatre. Its name well expresses
the entertainments that are usually given here. They
are principally operas, representing country scenes,
like the English operas of Rosina, Love in a Village,
&c. It must, however, be acknowledged, that tiw
French give an interest to these rural pictures seldom
felt on the English stage. Much unnatural senti-
mentality is omitted in the hi^er characters, and all
rudeness and grossness are banished from th)e lower.
The best performajQces of Lesueur, Cliiarubmi, Da-

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raBATRB BU VAUDBVILLe/ 429

leyrac, and Mehul, may frequently be witnessed at
the Comic Opera.

•Rie stranger may at all times depend on much
amusement at this theatre, which is open every day.

Prices. — ^First boxes on ground-floor^ first boxes with
lattices, balcony, and orchestra, 6 francs 12 sous. First
gallery and second boxes, 4 francs 10 sous. Third boxes,
3. francs 12 sous. Second gallery and fourth boxes, 8
francs 15 sous. Pit, 2 francs 4 sous. Third gallery, 1
franc 15 sous. No. of places 1720. The doors are
opened at six, and the play begins at seven.

Thcdtre Favart, or, Theatre des Italiens.
[Rue Favart.] F 3. .

This edifice was erected by M. Heurtier, in 1782,
on the site of the Hotel de Choiseul. A peristyle of
six columns, of the ancient Ionic order, forms the
only ornament of the fajade. The proportions of
the columns are grand, but altogether witnout deco-
ration. The entablature has a heavy appearance.

Some years ago this little theatre was taken by
Madame Catalani, who engaged a small company of
Italians, and exhibited here her unrivalled powers of
voice. The speculation did not prove so lucrative
as she expected. It is now used as the Italian
Opera-house.

ThSdtre du Vaudeville.
IRue de Charlres, No, 14, tiear the Palais Royal,] E 4.

The performances of this theatre are various, often
singuliar, and always attract crowded audiences.
They principally consist of very short, yet interesting
little comic sketches, filled wim songs (vaudevilles),
either amatory, sentimental, or epigrammatic. These
songs are usually furnished by a club of wits, whose
meetings are known by the name of Les Diners du
Vaudeville. The passmg events or occwrences of

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480 THEATRE PS LA PORTB ST* KARTIK.

the day often fonn the subject of Httie comic or
serious pieces. Happy parodies are frequently given
of the spectacles of the larger houses. Occasionally,
however, the performances assume a sux>erior cha-
racter.

This theatre is open every day.

Prices. — Pint row of stage-boxes, 5 franes. Pint
boxes and balcony, 4 francs. Orchestra, ground-floor,
and first ^llery, 3 francs 10 sous. Second boxes, 8
francs. Third boxes, 2 francs 5 sous** Amphitheatre of
third boxes, 8 francs. Pit, 1 franc 13 sous. No. of
places 1257. The doors open at six, and the performance
cooimences at seven.

Th^dtre de tAmbi^ Comique.
[Boulevard du Temple, No. 74.] H 8.
This little theatre, of an oval form, is very tastefully
decorated, and devoted to the performance of melo*
dramas, with dancing, and short comic pieces, ambigu,
signifying a medley. It is open every day.

Prices. — Stage-boxes, 8 francs 12 sous. First boxes.
8 francs 8 sous. Gallery, 2 francs. Second boxes and
pourtour, 1 franc 16 sous. Pit and Amphitheatre, 1
franc 5 sous. Amphitheatre of the second boxes, 18
sous. Third boxes, 12 sous. No. of places 1530. The
doors are opened at five, and the performances com-
mence at half-past five.

TTi^dtre de la Porte St Martin.
{Boulevard St. Martin, No. 18.] G 8.
This house was originally designed for the opera:
but it was afterwards considerSl to be too distimt
from the court. It is now appropriated to the same
kind of performances as the Ambigu Comique. The
interior of the theatre is peculiarly eWant.

The favourite melo-drama of the Maid and the
Magpie was brought out here, and attracted crowded

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THIATKB BBS TARTBTlS. 4dl

audiences, at the period when the cannon of the
Allies could be distinctly heard from the Boulevards.
—This house is open eveiy evening.

Prices. — Stag^e-boxes, ground-floor, flrit and second
row, 5 francs. Balcony of (he first row, and latticed
boxes, 4 francs 10 sous. Balcony of the second boxes,
first and second row of side boxes, orchestra, and first
and second g;allery, 9 francs 1 5 sous. Ground>floof boxes,
second boxes, and boxes du ceintre, 2 francs. Pit and
first amphitheatre, 1 franc 13 sous. Third boxes, I franc
5 sous. Second amphitheatre, 1 5 sous. No. of places
1803. The doors open at five, and the eDtertainmeDtii
commence at six o'clock.

Thcdtre de la GaietL Theatre of Gaiety.
[Boulevard du Temple, No. 68.] H 3.
The performances of this theatre are not different
from those of the two preceding, and at either of the
three the representation of the melo-drame is de-
cidedly superior to that of any of the minor houses
in London.
The dancers at this house are supposed to be su-

ferior to those at either of the two preceding theatres,
t is open every day.

Prices. — Stage boxes, latticed boxes, and first boxes
in -front, 3 francs IS sous. First boxes in front, and
second side boxes, 2 francs 8 sous. First gallery, 2
francs. Orchestra, 1 franc 16 sous. Second gallery,
1 franc 10 sous. Pit, 1 franc 5 sous. Second boxes,
sides, 18 sous. Third amphitheatre, 12 sous. No. of
places 1T54. The doors open at five, and the entertain-
ments commence at half-past five.

Theatre d$€ Varieik. Theatre of Varieties.

[ Boulevard Hfontmarlre, No. 5.] P 8.

This little theatre, designed for pieces of a burlesque

and popular kind, was built by Cellerier, in 18U7.

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4n OTMNASK DRAMITIQUE.

The exterior has four Ionic over four Dorie eoltunns,
crowned with a triangular pediment The style of
bmlding is simple, light, and theatrical.

The pieces performed here profess not to rank
higher than farces; although divested of all llie
coarseness of the English farce. Let not this, how-
ever, deter the traveller from visiting it ; for he may
be assured, that he will generally be pleased, and
never disgusted.

This theatre is said to be the favourite resort of
courtezans ; they do not, however, offend by their
obtrusive, noisy, or indecent behaviour.

This theatre is open every day.

Prices. — Stage boxes and balcony, 5 francs. First
boxes, front boxes on ground-floor, and front boxes
second tier, 4 francs. Side boxes ground-floor, or-
chestra^ and first gallery, 3 francs 10 sous. Second boxes,
sides, 3 francs. Third boxes, sides, 2 francs 5 sous.
Amphitheatre of the third boxes, pit, and gallery, 1 fr^nc
IS sous. No. of places 1245. The doors open at half-
past five, and the performances begin at six.

Thidtre de Madame, ou Gymnase Dramatiqtie,
[Boulevard Bonne Nouvelle, iVo. 8.] F 8.
Is so called, because it is intended as a nursery for
young singers for the grand opera, and other theatres
of a superior description. It is principally confined
to the performance of comedies and vaudevilles, and
forms a rival to the Theatre Vaudeville.

It was first opened in 1820, and has an elegant
front of the Corintiiian and Ionic orders. . Rougerin
was the architect. Perlet performs here.

This theatre is open every day.

Prices. — Stage botes and balcoily, 5 francs. First
boxes, 4 francs. First gallery, orchestra, and ground-
floor, 3 francs and 10 sous. Second boxes, 2 francs 10
sous. Second gallery, 2 francs 5 sotis. Pit, 1 franc 15
sous. The doors open at six, and the perfoimaace cim*
mences at seven.

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Cirque Olympique, The Oljnmpic Circus.

[Rue du Faubourg du Temple, No. 14.] H S.
The entertainments exhibited on this stage resemble
those at Astley's, and are scarcely inferior to them.
The house is spacious and elegant, and the whole is
under the direction of M. Franconi, whose family
are the principal performers. It is only open, how-
ever, iij the wmter season, as the Franconis visit the
country during the'summer. This theatre was burnt
down in March, 1826, but rebuilt in 1827.

Prices. — Stage boxes and lattice boxes, front, 4 francs.
Ground-floor boxes, S francs. First gallery, 2 francs 10
sous. Second gallery, 2 francs. Third gallery, 1 franc
10 sous. Pit, 1 franc 5 sous. Amphitheatre, 15 sous.
The doors are open at five, and the performances begin
at six.

English Theatre,
[Rue Chantereine.'\ F 2.

This is a neat house, erected in 1827, for the per-
formance of English plays. It is situated near the
Boulevard des Italiens.

Thc&tre du Mont Parnasse.
[Outside the Barrih'e du Maine,'\ D 6.

This small theatre is appropriated to the performance
of vaudevilles and low comedy.

It is open every evening at six o'clock, except on
Sundays, when there are tioo representations, one
at half-past four, and another' at seven. Admittance
from 6 sous to 1 franc 4 sous,

I Thi&tre Montmartre,
[Outside the Barriire des Marty^'S.I F 1 .
This is asmaUand neat theatre, and the perform
ances are similar to those at the preceding.

2 P

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4Si XUKMt TnA«SZS«

ThSdtre du Rouie, or de Randagh,
[Outside the Barrih-e du Roule,] B 3.

Thb entertainments here resemble those at the two
theatres just noticed; but there is also. a second
theatre at Ranelagh, where amateurs perform to a
select society.

Spectacle des Acrohaies,
i Boulevard du Temple y N&, 62.] H 3.

This is so called from a Greek word, signifying to
waUt on one's toes. Rope-dancing and pantomimic
tricks are exhibited here every evening. Madame
Saqui dances on the tight-rope.
Admission from \ franc 10 sous to 8 sotis,

• ThSAtre des Funambules,
[Boulevard du Temple, JVo. 64.] H S. •
The name of this theatre is derived from the Latin,
funis a rope, and ambulo to walk. Rope-dancing
and pantonumes are exhibited here every evening.
Admission from 15 to 4 sous. .

ThS&tre M^canique, Mechanical Theatre.
[Boulevard du Temple ^ No. 60.]

Is Open every evening. Admission from \ franc 5
sous to 6 sous. ^

Thidtre de Physique Amusante.
iRue Orenelle St. fforwri, No. 55.]
Is open every day for the exhibition of philosophical
experiments, mechanical performances, &c. Ad-
mission 1 franc to 10 sous.

Th^&tre Forain du Luxembourg.
[Rue Madame, No. 7.] E 5,
The amusement here is caUed Bobino. It consists
of rope-dancing, pantomimic tricks, &c
Admismnfrom 15 to 6 sous.

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BXO&AXJU 4Si

IdaUe,

[Passage de I^OpSrat Bouievard des Italiens*\ P 9.
This is a large subterranean gallery, containing two
small stages, oh which conjurors and giimaciers ex-
hibit their talents.

It is open on Sundays and Thursday 9, Ad»
mission Z/rancs.

• Diorama.
[Boulevard St. MartiD.] H 8.

This novel exhibition is intended, like the Panorama,
to exhibit correct delineations of the beauties of na-
ture and art, but differs from it in this respect, that
instead of a circular view of the objects represented,
it exhibits the whole picture at once in perspective.
It is 4ecidedl3r su]jerior both to the Panorama and
the Cosmorama, in the fidelity with which the ob-
jects are depicted, and in the completeness of th^
illusion. The interior of tiie buildmg resembles a
small liieatre. Above is a circular ceiling orna-
mented with beautiful transparent devices, and sur-
rounded with a series of medallions, representing
eminent painters and sculptors of various nations^
The whote is moveable, and is made to revolve with
the spectators, at intervals of a quarter of an hour,
so that as one picture recedes, the other comes gra-
dually into view. Such is liie effect produced by
tiie disposition of the building, and by the various
modifications of light and shade, that the optical
deception is complete, and it is difficult for the spec-
tator to persuade himself that he is only contem«
plating a work of art.

MM. Bouton and Daguerre are the artists who
executed the pictures, which, after remaining some
time in Paris, are exhibited iii the British metropolis.

The Diorama is open every day from 10 ^0 4, and
the price of admission is 2fr, 30 c.

2P»

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436^ nxumiTioHs,

[PUssUffe des Panoratnas, F 8, and Boulevard des
CapuciTies.} £ 3.

TtffeSE exhibitions are on the same principle as that
in Leicester- square in the British metropolis, and
not inferior in size or efPect. The views are changed
as frequently as the rapid pencil of the artist will
permit.

They are open from ten o'clock in the morning
until night. Admittance 2/r. 30 c.

Cosmorama,
iGederie Vitrie of the Palais Royal, No. 281.] F 3.

This is a somewhat similar, and not less pleasing
exhibition. It comprises picturesque views of some
of the most celebrated Cities and constructions of an-
cient and modem times.

It is open every night from five o'clock until
leven. Admittance, l^^*. 10 sous.

Exhibition of Paintings.
[Rue du Coq St. Honord, No, 7.] F 4.

Here are to be seen gratis, every day from eleven to
four, some very valuable paintings, and other curio*
sities for sale, which are well deserving inspection.

Exhibition of Ancient Monuments.
[Petit Passage des Panoramas, No. 6.] F 8.
This is an interesting collection of models of nume-
rous objects, which have been destroyed at various
times, by volcanic eruptions.

Open every day from 10 in the morning to 10 at
night. First places, \ fr. Second, bO cent. Third,
25 cent.

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Pamiireorama, or QdUrie des CapitaJles et

Monumen9»

[Rue de Seifte St. Germain, No. 12.] G 6.

This is an exhibition representing the principal cities
of Europe, on an exact scale.

It is open every day from 10 /o 3. Price of ad^
mission 1/r. 50 c.

Spectacle de M. Comte. M. Comte's Exhibition.
[Passage des Panorama^*']
Thb amusements of this little theatre consist princi-
pally of slight of hand and ventriloquy. M. Comte
IS supposed to be the first ventriloquist in Europe,
A company of children also p^rfwrm here in pieces
suited to tmir talents.

Front seats, 5 francs. Second seats, 3 and 2 francs*
Back seats, 1 franc. *

Ombres Chinoises de S^raphin. Seraphin's

• Chinese Shadows.
[Palais Royal, Stone Gallery, No. 121.] F 8.
The nature of this exhibition is well known. The
story of the broken bridge, and the enchanted forest;
have amused all my readers in the years of child-
hood, and will please from the association of early
ideas. ITiere are two representations on Sunday
evenings, and one on othar days, commencing aX
seven o'elodc.

Front seats 15 sous. Second seats, 12 sons. Back
seats, 8 sons.

Componium,
[Rue de fEchiquier, No. S4.] G 8.
This is a cmious musical instrument, which has the
power of composing variations to an unlimited ex-
tent.
Admission 3 francs,

2 P 8

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•48g COMBATS OF AN$|IALS.

Bazar.
[Rue St. Honors pres de la Place Vendome.] E 3.

This splendid establishment is on the same plan as
those in the English metropolis.

Combats des Animaux, Combats of Animals.
[Near the Barrier St. Martin.] H 1.

This singular and disgraceftil spectacle is more fre-
quented than is honourable to the humanity of the
Parisians. It consists of an inclosure surrounded by
a gallery, under which are the dens of various wild
and ferocious animals. At a short distance are ken-
nels containing fighting dogs of every description.
Any person who wishes to try the courage of his
dog, may, for a certain gratuity, select an antagonist
from the kennels.

But on Sunday, and every festival, a public exhi-
bition takes place, when it is crowded by gentlemen
of a certain description, and by those wnose educa-
tion and rank in society should have taught them
better feelings.

The entertainments commence about fotar o'clock
by various dojf -fights. To these succeed bull-bait-
ing, bear-baiting, &c. The humanity of the spec-
tators, or the avarice of the proprietors, usually in-
terferes to preserve the lives of the various animals,
but th^ are often sadly worried and mutflated. The
amusement usually concludes, on grand festivities,
with a ludicrous, but cruel scene. A bear is com-
pelled to climb a pole. He is then surrounded with
fire-works, which not Only terrify Mm by their ex-
plosions, but evidently torture him by. their flames.
He is afrajd to escape by one bold leap, and he is
equally afi-aid to slide down through the fires which
are blazing underneath him. The clumsy and gro-
tesque attitudes by which he expresses hb terror and

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GAMING HOU9B8. 48t

his pain, excite shouts of pleasu];e from the greater
brutes with which the galleries are thronged. Some-
times a bull-dog is employed for this cruel exhibition.
Th6 baited animals are fastened with ropes to a ring
in the centre of' the amphitheatre, and the keepers
manage them with wonderful dexterity.
Admission 15 sous and upwards.

GAMING-HOUSES.

Thb principal gaming-houses are jHotel d'Oigny,
No. 6, Rue Grange BateU^re, and Hotel Frascati,
No. 108, Rue de Richelieu. The apartments are
mlignificently furnished, and dinners, suppers, and
expensive wines are given to promote the grand ob-
ject of such establishments.

The other gaming-houses are No. 154, No. 129,
No. 1 13, in the Eastern Gallery of the Palais Royal ;
No. 9, in the Western Gallery ; No. 36, Rue Dau-
phine ; Paphos, Rue du Temple ; and Marivaux's,
Rue du Temple.

HORSE RACES.

On the 8th and 12th of September there are horse
races, in the Champ de Mars. The prizes are 50/.
After a few days' repose, the Paris winning horse
rims against the best horse from the departments,
for 2,000 franc?, and on the following Sunday for
4,000. The amusement is much inferior to sports of
this kind in England.

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44^ Motmriiini.

LOTTERIES,

Thxbi are &ve national lotteries, viz. Paris, Stras-»
bourgh, Lyons, LOle, and Bordeaux, each ctf which
are drawn thret times a-month. The Paris lottery
is drawn on the 5tii, 15 th, and 25 th of each month,
at nine o'clock, at the office. Rue Neuve des Petits
Champs.

Each lottery consists of 90 numbers, of which only
five nominally, and in reality but four, are entitled to
prizes. The system is simply this: Suppose you
gain an extrait, which is when only one of the num-
bers you may have chosen comes up, you gain fifteen
times what you have placed. If two numbers come
up, that is an ambe, 270 times what you stake. If
three should also be drawn, your gain amounts to
5,506 times what you have placed in the compart-
ment appropriated to the^ teme. And shoidd you
have the exiraordinary Ot)ut by no means unexampled)
good fortune to have your four numbers drawn, you
gain 75,000 times the sum you placed on the qtM-
teme.

MOUNTAINS.

These singular amnsements were ^rst commenced
in the French metropolis in the year 1817, and the
eagerness mtii which th^ were resc^^M to fully jus-?
tificd the speculatioiv of tiie proprietors. "Die novdty,
however, having gradually decreased, it has been
found necessaiy to unite tiiean with otii^ reareations,
in order to produce attraction. The nftoimtain is
niade of wood, and its steep inclined planes are far--
nished with grooves, in which a. car, capable of con-
taining one or two persons, descends with astonishing
velocity. The diversion is much practised in Russia
during the winter, when the inclined plane is usually
covered with ice.

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BA1«L8. 44(

BALLS.

iNt he native land of dancing, it may be expected
that public balls and assemblies will be held every
night, and almost in every street. They are, how-
ever, much more frequent in winter than dluing the
summer.

A ball is given at the opera-house every Saturday
during the season, and sometimes on Thm^days.
Admittance, 6 francs. It usually commences about
midnight, and frequently continues until the bells toll
for early matins. The company is usually masked,
and many appear in fancy dresses.

The utmost order and decorum prevail, although it
is said that many a young man has cause to lament
the seducing acquaintance which he has formed at
this ball.

Balls are also given at the Odeon Theatre, and are
tolerably well attended. Admission 3 francs.

The public gardens are also much frequented by
dancers ; and besides these, there are ball-rooms at
the following places, where the price of admission
varies accoiSing to their character. There are like-
wise numerous others of an inferior description.

Le Cirque des Muses, Rue de Grenelle St Hoiior6,
No. 9.

La Galerie Pompeii, Rue Neuve des Petits Champs,
No. 36.

Le Ru^eri d'Hiver, salle Mont Thabor.

Le Prf&o, Place du Palais de Justice.

La Galerie Corinthienne, Cour des Fontaines^
No. 1.

L'Idalie, Passage de T Opera,

La Redoute, Rue de Grenelle St. Honors, No. 45.

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44t AMjmaamTB.

CONCERTS.

Thxsi are num^ous in the French metropolis, par-
ticularly during the winter, when there are sometiines
two or three on the same day. They are advertised
in the daily papers, and the usual price of adxxiission
is 10 ^ncs.

Requkms and particular masses are occasionally
performed at Notre Dame, St Sulpice, and St. Roch.
They are also previously advertised.

Jeux de Paume. The Tennis Courts.

The several buildings erected for this amusement are
situated as follows : —

Rue Mazarine. — Rue des Ecouffes. — ^Rue de Gre-
nelle, St. Honor6. — Rue Beaurepaire. — Place SC
Michel.

Exhibitions on the tFater,

Ths watermen of the Seine formerly amused the
people on every Sunday evenii^ with rowing and
saihng matdies, opposite the Gros Caillou. The
amusements terminated with an exhibition of fire-
vTorks, but they have been for several years discon-
tinued.

. Aquatic n>ort8, however, sometiines take place at
the village fetes near Paris.

Skating.

The places most frequented for this amusement are
the Bassin de la Villette ; the Gare, Faubouig St
Jacques ; and the octagon basiA in the gardens of
the Tuileries.

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TBS BOULlTAftDf. IMS

REVIEWS.

Thssb generally take place in the Place da Carousel,
when only a small number of troops are employed ;
but when large bodies of troqps perform their various
evolutions, the reviews generally take place on the
Plaine de Grenelle, or the Champ de Mars.

The troc^s on duty at the Palace of the Tuileries
exercise every day at nine in summer, and at noon in
winter.

PROMENADES and PUBLIC GARDENS.

The Boulevards,

The Boulevards were formerly the boundaries of
Paris ; but,, as that city gradually extended itself on
every side, parts of them were at length found in the
very centre of the population. They consist of a
road, or rather of a superb street, as wide as Portland
Place, with a row of elms on each side. This road
extends through the whole of the city, and nearly
round it, forming a circumference of almost seven
miles. Little of the natural luxuriance of the elms
is pruned ; and, arching over head, they form a pleas-
ing shade. Some of the walks are carefully gravelled
for the accommodation of foot-passengers ; and on
each side of the malls is an uninterrupted succession
of noble mansions,, splendid hotels, caf6s, restaura-
teurs, theatres, shops, booths, tea-gardens, flower-
gardens, and fountams.

The Boulevards on th^ north, which are called the
Great Boulevards, were planted in 1660. The trees
have therefore attained a majestic size; Soz^e of

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1^14 THB SOtTLBTAlUDS;

those on liie south were not eompleted uatfl 1^61 ;
but the walks are wider, and the trees more luxuriant
The Boulevards were f<»inerly covered witii turf, and
were much resorted to for pWing at bowls ; henoe
the derivation of the name, " boi3er sur le vort," te
bowl upon the ^reen.

The prindpel charm of the Boulevards con^stB
in the gay and festive crowd which constantly fills
them, and the inexhaustible fund of amusement whidi
every step supjdies. From noon until night they ai«
the favourite resort of the Parisians of every de-
scription. In the heat of the day and the ear^^
part of the evening, the walks are lined with a douUe
or treble row of chairs, occupied by various ^ups,
reading, chatting, drinking, smoking, or g[azing on
the pedestrians. The Parisian petit-maitre is tQways
to be seen here, carelessly lolling with his le^ on one
chair, while a second supports his body, and his arm
is, vdth studied negligence, thrown dver a third. The
chairs are hired at two sous each.

At the side of the malls, especially of the Boule-
vard du Temple, is a motley and indescribable group,
which contributes not a little to the amusement and
interest of the scene. Ballad-singers, dancing-chil-
dren, and dancing-dogs, tumblers, posture-masters»
coiuurors, puppet-showmen, merry-andrews, players^
andfortune-tella*s, stand in long and interminable
succession ; each unweariedly exerting himself to
I)lease, and thankM for the few sous which are ocoa^
sionally thrown to him. Intermixed with these, are
stalls, glittering with a gaudy display of toys and
trinkets ; tables at which the scribe, with the pen of
a ready writer, will indite a letter, or memorial of any
length, and on any subject ; women, professing to
perform every kind of operation on the dog, with thdr
mstniments ostentatiously arranged before them;
flower-girls by dozens, who will take no denial;

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TttK BOULBVARD9. MS

mtuuciaas, perfbrmin^ on every instmnieiit which
the art of man has invented, to- please or torture
the ear ; professors of natural philosophy, who con-
trive to make their hydrostatic experiments suffici-
ently impres»ve on the visages and clothes of their
auditors ; manufacturers of orgeat and lemonade ;
the sage diviners of the lucky numbers of lottery-
tickets ; men with castles inhabited by white mice,
who i)lay a thousand antics in the different apart-
ments ; fortresses, guarded by a regiment of canary
birds, who perform their different ev<dution8 with the
precision of veterans ; and last, not least, caricatu-
rists or grimaciers, who change the human face divine
into a rapid succession of odd and inconceivably
grotesque forms, which no risible muscles can possi-
&y wiuistand.

Towards night the crowd increases, and almost
the whole extent of the Northern BoiQevards, from
that of the Capuchins to St. Antoine^ but particu^
larly the Boulevard des Italiens, forms one closely-
wedged moving mass. Dancing now comikiences
in the booths, and the gard^is bv the side of the
walks ; every angle and nook ot the Bowkyards,
on which the crowd does not press, is occupied by
ft group lightly tripping to the music of some guitar
or violm. The cafes are brilliantly Uluminated ; the
stalls are also tastefully, if not splendidly, lighted
up. V Each candidate for public favour di^lays his
lamp or his candle, and redoubles his efforts to at-
tract attention.^ The face of every passenger is
clothed with smiles ; the Parisian has K>iigotten the
vexations and fatigues of the day, and abandons
himself to the dominion of pleasure. No city in
Europe habitually presents so hvety and amusing a
spectacle. It is only exceed by the Carnival at
Naples or at Venice.

Th^ Southern Boulevards are not so much fre-
9Q

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qnenled* and wiU be mitei hj Ike stranger when b^
wishes for a pleasant and more soUtary walk. They
were }^nted in 1761.

Champs Elys^es. Elysian fields. D 3«

This vast enclosure was planted by Colbert, in 1670,
and extends from the Place Louis XV., as fer as
Cnaillot on the east, and to the extremity of the
Faubourg du Roule on the west. The Faubomg
St. Honor6 borders it on the north, and the Cours
la Rein^ on the south. Its principal walk extends
from Ihe Place Louis XV. to the Barri^re of Neu-
iHy. Its entrance from the square is ornamented by
two lofty pedestals supporting the figures of restive
horses, by Goustou. Few parts of Paris afford a
view comparable to that which this spot presents,
in front is the palace of the Ttnleries, and its mag-
nificent garden ; on the left are the noble hotels of
the Faulx)urg St. Honors ; on the right is the river,
and behind, the picturesque barrier of Neuilly.

This vast extent of ground is planted with trees in
various avenues, and composing different forms.

In 1833, a new quartier was commenced in the
Champs Elys6es, which is to be called Quartier de
Fran9ois I. A wide street, planted with trees, will
extend in a direct tine from the Quajj opposite
the Invalides across the Champs Elysees. The
houses are uniform, and are 45 feet in height. Four
streets will diverge from an open space, called Place
de Pran9ois I., and m the centre will be a fountain
adorned with a statue of that monarch.

The principal avenue of the Tuileries, on the side
of the terrace of the Feuillans, is now the most fre-
quented spot. Swings are erected in various places ;
numerous parties are at all hours joining in the
graceful dance. The pavilions are filled wmi boiqr-
geob wijoying themselves after the labour of the dajr ;

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and eterf Mud of pastime k displi^ed for tiio
(aBusement of the promenaders.

At the Etoile is the Salon de Man, where the
lorers of dancing attend in crowds.

Cours la Reine, The Queen's Course. C 3.

This, when the roads are not too dusty, is as
pleasant a promenade as any that Paris affords. It
IS on the south of the Champs Elvs^es, and extends
nearly a mile along the bank of the Seine, from the.
comer of the Place Louis XV. almost to the site of
the projected palaoe of the King of Rome. It was
planted bv Maty de Medicis in 1628, and re-plante^
by the Duke d'Antin in 1723» The trees do not
afford so much shade as might be ei^pected, and in
dry weather the dust is apt to be troublesome*
There are four rows of trees, twelve fi^et from each
other, forming a grand principal walk, and two
smaller ones.

AlUe de9 Veuves. The Widows' Wa^. G 3.
An avenue of trees bearing this name extends froi^
the Star of the Champs Elys^es to the west extre^
mity. of the Cours la Reme. It is crowded with
guinguettes and tea-gardens, and is frequented by
the middle and lower classes of Parisians.

T?ie Champ de Mars. The Field of Mars. C 4.

This vast expanse reaches from the front of the.
Military School to the banks of the Seine. It is
bordered by a double avenue of trees, and siurounded
by a foss6, and a lofty, wide embankment. Exclu-
sive of the space covered by the trees, it is 2700 feet
in lenffth, and 900 in breadth. It was the scene of
the celebrated Champ de Mai, at the close of the
9econd usurpation of Buonaparte.
The troops quartered in the city are frequency

8Q8

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448 JABDIN DBIiTA. >

reviewed here. Ten thousand men can easi^ ma-
noeuvre in the Champ de Mars. Chariot, hoirse,
and foot races, are exhibited here on public festivals.
A great proportion of the spectators are aoconomo-
dated on the surrounding embankment, whence they
have an uninterrupted view of the sports, without the
possibility of accident or danger.

Nouveau Tivoli. New llvoli.
[Rue de CUchy.\ E 8.
The deHghtfbl garden of Tivoli, which was situated
in the Rue St. Lazare, ceased to be a place of
amusement in 1827. The present is intended as a
substitute, and bids fair to equal that celebrated
place. Tlie walks are pleasingly diversified, and the
lawns exhibit rope-dancers, mountebanks, grima-
ciers, groups riding at the ring, or playing at shuttle-
cock, «id innumerable parties in the httle bowers
around, gazing on the amusements, and sipping thdr
lemonade or orgeat.

In the evenings these gardens are splendidly illu-
minated,— a tolerable concert is given, additional
bands of musicians await the command of the
dancers, and an exhibition of fire-works takes place
at ten.

On gala and festival days additional decprations
and amusements are presented. The price of ad-
mission in the day is one firanc, three francs twelve
sous at night, and five or six firancs on festivals.

Jardin Delta.
IFaubourg Poigsanmire,'} F 1.
Is a spacious garden, where fire-works, dancing, &c.,
are exhibited. It formerly contained the Egyptian
Mountains, but their site is now occupied by a theatre,
in which pantomimes are performed. Admission, I
franc.

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^ '* Jardin BeHetnUe/

. ' £fiamer« BetleviUe.'] H S.

Ths amusements here are similar to tiiose of the

Jardin Deka. AdmissioB, 1 frimc.

Jardin Turc. The Turidsh Gardetu

{Boulevard du Temple.] H-S.

This grarden and the caf^ attached to it were for
some time quite out of fiishion, hut in 1824 they
were embellished at an expense of 200,000 francs,
and are now very much frequented. The ornaments
are in the Turkish style. A principal recommenda-
tion is, that in many of the little arbours or alcoves
that surround the garden, which is called Tivoli dii
Marais, an uninterrupted view is obtained of the
amusements of the Boulevards, while the visiter is
yeoloved from the crowd and confrision.

La Chaumiere.
[Boulevard du Mont Parnasse, No. 28.] E 6. •
This garden, situated on the southern Boulevards, is
not irSferior to the most attractive which the Boule-
vards of the north of Paris can boast.

A little band of rope-dancers, tumblers, and pro-
fessors of legerdemain, is engaged here to add to
the attraction of the place. The charge for refresh-
ments is moderate. The garden contains a caf(S and
a restaurateur, and here are the Swiss Mountains.
Admission, about half a fraae.

Vauxhall dEU, Summer YauxhaU.
IBoulevard du Temple, near the Chateau d'Eau."} G S.
Tbis is open on Monday and Sunday. It has a
pretty rotunda, and is famous for dancing ; but in
W iaisrm to the e^tablishn^ of the same muae

9 Q 8

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45.^ .IfUftSBEY OR0jBIM>ft*

near London. Admisskmi 1 firancfinr « genlilaxiaiw
and 10 sous for a lady.

The rotunda was opened in 1824 for the exiubition
of cock-fighting. .

Wooddf Vincennes,

This park, which contains about 2,000 acres, is
situated a mile from the Barriere du IVdne, and was
enclosed in 1183, by Philippe- Auguste, to contiun
the animals presented to him by the ting of England;
it is regulany planted in long walks. There is an
oak, under which Saint Louis used to render justice
to his subjects ; and in the grand walk is a place
where cannon are proved. — See Vincennes, in En-
virons.

PrSs-^t - Gervais.

N ATURS has made this fit for a promenade as well
as the wood of Romainville. On Sunday it is mu^
frequented. — See Environs.

Pare ou Jardin de Mouceaux.
IRue de Chartres, No. 4, Faubourg du Route*] D 2.
This s^eet garden was constructed in 1778 by M.
Carmontel, wr the Duke of Orleans ; it is planted
in the English taste. Gothic and Greek ruins,
superb peristyles, statues, obelisks, and ev«y thipg
curious or elegant, ornament this garden. TickeU
of admission may be obtained at the Palais Royal.

NURSERY GROUNDS.

La Pqiinxkre du Luxembourg is situated on the

f round formerly belonging to the Chartreusian*.
t contains a choice collection of rare plants and
finiit trees.
La Pepimh^e du JRoi, F^iubourg du Rouk, Na 20,

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0UIN0UETTB8 £T BAST RINOUES. 451

is a dep6t^ for excrtics, principaJly intended for the
royal gardens. It may be seen on application to
the gardener.

TripeVa Flower Garden, Rue de Clichy, No. 20,
is much frequented by the amateurs of tulips, car-
nations, &o.

GUINGUEITES ET BASTRINGUES.

The guinguettes are the gardens in the suburbs or
environs of Paris to which the lower and middling
classes are accustomed to resort on Sundays and
festival days, and regale themselves at a trifling
expense. jProvisions of every kind may be procured
here, ready dressed. When a guin^ette adds an
orchestra and a room for dancing to its other attrac-
tions, it is called a Bastringue.

The most celebrated are — the Hermitage, at the
foot of Montmartre ; Fanchon la Veilleuse, Boule-
vard du Mont Pamasse; Le Salon Denoy^, Bar-
riere de la Courtelle ; La Maison Morel, Barriere de
Menilmontant ; Le Jardin de la Gaiety, Barriere du
Maine, and Le Salon de Varlet, Boulevard de rH6-

Sital. Most of the houses, also, at Belleville and
lontrouge are guinguettes. The stranger will pro-
bably occafeibnafiy look in at some of these places,
for there he will form the most correct idea of the
real characters and manners of the mass of the
Frencli peo^de.

The houses which sell only wine and liquors are
denominated ^uinches.

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A&t

ENVIRONS OF PARIS.

The most remarkable places only in the vicinitf of Parit axB
noticed in the following: pa^es, as a description of every insignificant
Tillage would far exceed the limits of this wor^.

To most of the principal towns in the environs there are dili-
gences, in which places may be booked at varions hours of the day;
besides other smaller vehicles. For places to which tiiere is bo
stage or regular public conveyance, the best plui is t« take a cab*
riolet or fiacre, bee OA£axo{.ETs and Fxacrss.

ALFORT is a village two leagaes from Paris, Temarkabte
for its Veterinary College, which has been already de-
scribed. Cabriolets from the Rue de la Roquette.

ANTONY is a village about 3 J leagues from Paris, oa
tbe road to Orleans. The church has a beautiful choir
and a steeple, surmounted by ft pyramid, said to have
been erected in the fourteenth century. CabrioleU (torn
the Rued'Enfef. Pop. 1100. F^te^ Second Sunday is
May.

ARCUEIL. — About one league from Paris stands the
village of Arcueil, on the little river Bievre, where is a
magnificent aqueduct, the architecture of which may be
compared with the finest specimens that Italy can aflford.
Mary de Medicis caused this fabric to be built after the
designs of Jacques Desbrosses, to convey the waters of
Rungis for the use of the inhabitants of Paris. The
aqueduct consists of twenty arches. It. is 400 yards iti
length, and 24 in height.- The distance between the
springs of Rungis and the founM^ips at Paris to wfai^h
the water is conveyed, is 3| leagues. In order to see
the aqueduct, application must be made to M% Beurier,
No. 123, Rue des Arcs, at Arcueil.

At some distance on the road from Paris to Gentilly,
are the ruins of an ancient aqueduct, which is said to
have been erected by the Emperor Julian, to convey
water to his palace of Thermes, situated in the Rue de
la Harpe, at Pans.

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AUBEKYII^LISRS. 453

A Bprtog in tbe neighbourhood of Arcueil b«« the pro-
per^ of deposUiog a stony crust on small bodies im-
mersed in it. Little pieces of wood, apples, and peaches,
are frequently thrown into it, which in a short time as-
sume the appearance of pleasing petrifactions.

Cabriolets for Arcueil stand in the Rue d'Enfer, near
the Place St. Michel. Pop. 1 170. F^e> Sunday after
St. Denis's Day (Oct. 9th).

ARGENTEUIL is a large market town on the Seine,
about two leagues and a quarter from Paris, nor is there
any place in the environs of that capital so renowned in
the page of history. Argentenil is of very remote an-
tiquity, and has frequently been the scene of fanaticism
and bloodshed. Its abbey was rendered conspicuous by
having had for its prioress the far-famed Eloisa, as
celebrated for beauty and wit as for her misfortunes.
From Argenteuil, accompanied by some faithful sisters
of the oSer, she retired to the Paraclete, which was
given up to her by Abelard, when he removed to Ruys.
Argenteuil is noted for the excellence of its grapes and
figs. Great crowds used formerly to resort to it^ to see
a robe of Charlemagne, without seam, found in a wall,
in which it had been concealed more than 800 years.
Cabriolets from the Quai des Tuileries.

ARNOUVILLE is a league from St. Denis, on the bank
of the little river Cran. The park, which contains about
300 acres, is beautifully diversified with groves, lawns,
cascades, and sheets of water. The appearance of the
villa^ is much admired. All the streets centre in a
spacious lawn, ornamented by a noble fountain. Louis
XVUL passed three days in the chateau of Amouville,
previous to his entrance into Paris in July, 1815.

ASNIERES is pleasantly situated on the banks of the

Seine, a league and a half from Paris. It contains a

great number of elegant country seats^ and particularly

a chateau formerly belonging to the Comte d'Argenson.

' Pop. SIO.

AUBERVILLIERS, a village between 4 and 5 miles
from the Barridre de la Villette, was formerly celebrated
for a statue of Notre Dame des Vertus, to which nume-
rous pilgrims resorted. It wfis dejstroyed in the war

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4£4 BAOIS^SLLI.

against the Armagaaes, but wai rebuilt by tfae donatibna
of the deirout pilgrims* During the contest between the
French and Prussians in 1815, it was seveial times takea
and re-taken.

AUTEUIL. — ^This village is situated on an eminence
between the Bois de Boulogne and the road to Versailles,
about a league from Paris. It dates its origin from
very remote antiquity, and was formerly celebrated fof
tiie etcelleaoe of its wines. If it has, however, lately
lost much of its reputation on this scoie, it will never
be deprived of the fame whieh it derives from having
been the retreat ' of numerous peteoos eminent for their
talents and their virtues ; among whom may be reckoned
the satirist Boileau, the learned Helvetius, the inimitable
La Fontaine, the witty Moli^re, and the tragedian Ra**
cine. Hero, likewi8e,'€dndorc^ Cabanis, Count Rum-
ford, and Franklin occksioiuUly resided. In the church-
yard is a pleasing monument to the Chancellor d' Agues*
eeao, who was buried here.

The fdte is on August 15th, aiid following Sunday,
and lioocludes with a b^U, -and an exhibition of fire*
woiks; The beat restaurateur is at the Grille de Bois*
Gabriolets^or Auteuil stand on the qua^ bl the Tuileries,
near the Place of Louis XV. Pop. 1040 .-n .'i

.BAGATeLt^.-t--This beautiful structure,' ^^Wtich was
inhabited by the late Duke of Berry, stands on the bor«
ders of the Bois tie Boulogtie, and'near the banks of the
Seine, about four mifes from Paris. It was built for
the Count d'Artois by Bellanger, whose designs unite at
once grandeur and graee. • Thcee court-yards lead to
the pavilion, from the innernftost* of which a flight of
steps conducts to the gmnd eHimoM, splendidly embelr
lished with columns. In the vestibnl^ is a marble bust
of the Duke d' Aagouleme, beneath ivhich is an inscrip-
tion, referring to his imprisonment in the South of
France. The saloon is ornamented with exquisite bas-
reliefs, and other specimens of art in the Italian style.
On the left of this apartment is the bathing room, fitted
up in the most tasteful manner, and decorated with se-
veral large paintings from the pencil of Robert. The
second apartment is a boudoir, enbeUiiriied with sw

Digitized by VjOOQ I

pictares by Collet. The mansioD also eontftHia a hand-
some billiard room. The furaitttre of the deeping
apartmeni is completely en militctire, consisting^ of tro-
phiesj and every attribute connected with war. The
inscription on the portal gives the true character of the
place : Parva sed apta. The different windows present
the most enchanting views in every direction, 'eomprisini^
the windings of the Seine, the bridge of Nenilly, and
Mount Vaterien. The garden always delights by the
variety and beauty of the objects which it presents.
Temples, grottoes, busts, are scattered with tasteful pro-
fusion, and nothing is wanting to complete the beauty
of the scene. This houite may be seen on Wednesdays,
and tickets of admission Aoay be procured at the Palats
d*Elys^e Bourbon.

BAGNEUX is pleasandy situated onan emiaence over-
looking the road to Orleans, one league and a-half from
Paris. It contains numerous chateaulE. The porch of
the church, which is very ancient^ is decorated witfc
some curious sculpture.

Cabriolets for this place stand in the Rue d'Enfer.
Pop. 600.

BAGNOLBiT is one league from Paris, on the road to
Pantin, and has many pleasant country- houses. The
f^te of the patron saint is on the first Sunday in Septem-'
ber. Pop. 910.

BELLEVILLE.— This village is at no great distance
from the Barriers of Parrs, and its delightful situation
has doubtless conferred upon it the name which it bears.
Belleville is erected upon an ennnence which commands
a noble view of Paris. The descent of the hill is deco«
rated with pretty country seats, built in a style of simple
but elegant architecture, each possessing a terrace,
whence the eye wanders over an immense tract of coun-
try, studded with hamlets and villages. On the 8.E. the
gloomy towers 6f Vincennes rise above the forest, and
on the west the spires of Paris are occasionally discerned
through the openings of the wood. The poet Favart
resided at Belleville ; and here the terms of the capita-^ •
lation of Paris in 1814, were signed by the JSmperor
of RuMia and King of PmMMi«

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455 . BJIRGi.

Not far. distant 10 St. Oervaia, one of IbemtMrt beauti-
ful coantry walks in- the world. Strangers should walk
here on Sunday, to see the motley and joyous crofrd
which the city then pours out.

. BeUeville, as well as its hamlets Courtilleand ^fenil-
montant, has numerous guinguettes, and elegant baths,
which have been recently constructed.

A small portion of Paris is supplied with water from
an aqueduct which commences at this place. Pop.
1850.

. BELLEVUEU- Walking on the banks of the Seine,
Mad£une de Pompadour was so struck with the noble
prospect which this spot affords, that she immediately
determined to erect a chateau here, and make it her fa-
vourite residence. Louis XV., enchanted with the de-
lightful situation of the place, prevailed on her to yield
it to him. The architecture of the building is at once
simple and grand< Nothing can exceed the beauty of
the winter saloon.

The park and ^rdens are tastefully laid out, particu-
larly that denominated the English garden. The pro-
spect to the north has little comparable to U in the en-
virons of Paris. Plains and woods, hills and villages,
are .most agreeably interspersed. Paris and the Bois de
Boulogne form an admirable contrast. The Seine,
which, with beautiful meanderings, alternately appears
and di3appears from the view, sebms to retam from the
remotest distance to water the hill of Bellevue. All
that is enchanting in nature and in art is combined to
embellish this delightful retreat. Bellevue was inhabited
by the aunts of Louis XVI., and shortly alter their
departure from France it was transformed into a prisoo.
The furniture and all the exquisite works of art were
wantonly defaced, or destroyed, or sold. The saloon
alone escaped the general destruction, being used by
the commanding officer of the day as his apartment
Cabriolets stand at the Quai des Tuileries.

BERCI is charmingly situated on the banks of thy
. Seine, half a league from Paris. The principal cha-
teau was very superb, but has lately been employed as
a manufactory for extracting sugar Crom beat-root. The

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BOIS S8 BOULOGNE. 45*!^

^aik,. laid •»( b^ the celebrated Lenostre, affofds a ' de-
ilgbtfttl view oC the Seine, the neighbouriDg villages^
and t he . metropolis.

The annual fete is on the Sunday after the 8th of Sep-
tembeTiand is much frequented. Prizes are contested
at aichery, horse and foot rachig. The cabriolets for
Berci stand at the gate of St. Antoine. Pop. 1 150.

BICETRE is situated on an eminence about a league
from Pari»* It is noted for its prison and hospital
already described. See Index.

BIEVRE. — ^This liule stream has its source near Ver-
sailles. Its waters are muddy and unwholesome, but
are noted for dyeing. The manufacture of the Gobelins
Is said to have originated from this circumstance. The
river turns numerous mills in its course through Paris
and its vicinity.

BOIS DE BOULOGNE— The village of Boulogne,
about one league from Paris, was well known in the
annals of superstition. Certain pilgrims, on their return
from a holy journey to the chapel of Our Lady, at the
seaport of the same name, founded a religious house
here^ and gave the present villajge, then called M^mes
}e St. Cloud) the appellation which it now bears. ^ It is
from this village that the adjoining forest derives its
name, being formerly called the Forest of Rouvnet

The name of the Bois de Boulogne would lead the

traveller to expect lofty trees and luxuriant foliage ; but

. ipuch of the fine wood which once adorned it is destroyed,

and it is now merely an extensive copse, thinly scattered

with young plants.

The annual procession, on the Wednesday, Thursday,
and Friday of Passion Week, called the Promenade of
Long Champ, draws together the Parisians of every
rank. In former times nuns from the neighboudng con-
vent, which was called Long Champ, went in grand pro-
cession through the wood. It is now nothing but a long
string of coaches, carts, cabriolets, and horsemen. Every
one puts on all his finery, and seems determined to be
gay and meny.

. This wood is frequently the scene of the royal hunt ;
and to the English spoitsmaa a moi« tame and ludicrous
8 R

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4£§ BKIB Bvn minHMm

business can ficftrcely be Conceived. The paik is Mif^
ficiemly inclosed on eTery side to prevent the possibility
of the escape of the animal from its oaTrow limits ; it
has innumerable avenues of trees^ and in every principal
avenue a person is placed to wactch the «lirection. which
the deer takes, and communi^td tbe'inlftlltgeDoe to the
royal hunters. The sport, therefore, consists in gat-
loping up and down these walks, without the possibility
of a leap in a run of many a mile. When the Prussians
pitched their tents on this Spot they destroyed much
of the timber for flre-wood, during their encampment
there. The wood, or park, is a fashionable noorning ride
tor the Pansians.

BONDI is two leagues from Paris, on the toad to
Meaux. It has many pleasant houses. The road is
prettily studded with the country residences of tbe
Parisian merchants. Chilperic was assassinated in the
neighbouring forest; and msny Marvellous and tragical
tales of the atrocities committed in this neighbourhood
are related by the peasants. The forest is intersected
by the canal de TOurcq. It was at Bondi that the pre-
fect and the magistrates of Paris delivered the keys of
the city to the aMied sovereigns, March 81st, 1814.
Cabriolets from Rue St. Martin. Pop. 500*

BONNEUIL is a village three leagues S.E. of Pa^is.
It formerly possessed a palace, which was the residence
of the kings of the first and second race. There eae no#
two villas, with parks.

BOURG LA REINE ^This village is two leagues

south of Paris, on the road to Orleans. Henry IV. had a
palace here, to which he retired as often as he coald
escape from the cares of government. This palace is now
a seminary for the education of young ladies. The foom
in whicH the monarch used principally to reside is stiN
shown.

Cabriolets for the above place stand in the Rue d'£ii«
feir. Pop. 720.

BRIE SUR MARNE.— This village is beautifully
situated on the summit of a little hill on the heftks of tliO
Mame, three leagues from Paris. The principal chateau
is an elegant buiWing. The park is etboisive, and iifioidtf
«ome extremely picturesque views, Pop. 980.

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CANAL DS l'oBRCQ. 459

BUC U« Tilkfe in Hie park of VenlOllea; 44 kigoes
S.W. of Paris. It ii ^markable for a luperb aqueducl
of Dioeteeti arches, erected by Louis XIV.

BUTTE ST. CHAUMONT, is the name given to a
lofty rock between Belleville and Pantin. Gypsum being
constantly taken from this eminence, a large cavity is
formed -resensbling the interior of a church, which being
lighted naturally on one side, and on the other by the
torehes of the workmen, presents a curious appearance*
The nearest way to thisv cavity is by the Barriere du
Combat

CALVAIRE, ou LE MONT VALERIEN is situated a«
a short distance from the villages of Nanterre and Su-
lene. It is the most elevated mountain in the vicinity of
Paris, of which it commands a fine view. On the sum-
mit are three crosses, and in several places are chapels,
which were destroyed during the Revolution, but have
been rebuilt by Louis XVUI. In 1834 a handsome road
was constructed from Paris to this place.

CANAL D£ L'OURCQ.-^This useful undertaking
was commenced by Buonaparte, for the purpose of afford*
ing Paris a gieatersuf^ly of water. It begins at the Ourcq^
about S4 leagues from Paris, and terminates at the basin
of La Villette, near the barrier of that name, after redeiv*
ing in its course the waters of the Grisette, the May, the
Therooanne, and the Beuvronne. Amongst the places
OB its banks are Mareuil, Echampier, Lizy, Grisy,
Meaux, Villemoie, Charmantr^, Claye, Sevran, ^nd the
forest of Bondy. As this canal' is intended to form a
communication between the Mame and the canal of St.
Q«ientio> it was necessary to make it of considerable di*
mensions. Its breadth from Mareuil to the mill at Lizy,
is 80 feet 9 inches, and its depth 4 feet 7 inches ; but
from Liay to / the basin, a distance of 2$ leagues, it is
only 10 feet eight inches broad.

This basin is of a rectangular form, S660 feet long and
866 broad, and is bordered by a double row of trees,
which renders it a pleasant promenade in summer*
During frost it is much frequented by skaters.

Two other canals connected with this basin are nearly
completed* one steads through the Mburbs of Paris to

2 R 3

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460 CHAILI.OT.

the Aneiial, and the other to St. Venn, by wtiicii the
passa^ to that place is greatly abridig;ed.

WbeD the canal of L'Ourcq is completely finished^ it
is calculated that it will supply Paris with 673,000 hogs-
heads of water every 24 hours.

CHAILLOT.— This benevolent institution is beauti-
fully situated about two miles from 'Paiis, commanding a
most extensive view of the city, the Seine, and the
Champ de Mars. The plan on which it is established is
singular and excellent. Persons above seventy years of
age can by right place themselves in it, to pass the re-
mainder of their days in comfort and repose. In order to
acquire this right,they must pay a subscription of ten-pence
per month, from ten to thirty years of age ; one shilling
and three-pence from thirty to fifty; and one shilling and
eight-pence per month from fifty to seventy. These
different payments will amount to forty-five pounds. —
Should any person wish to become a subscriber, who is
more than ten years of age^ he must, at the time of sub-
scription, deposit the sum which would have been paid
if the subscription had commenced at ten.

The establishment usually contains about 100 persons
of both sexes. Each has a separate bed-chamber, and
a common parlour between every two, for the reception
of their visiters and friends. Neatness and simplicity
are the characteristics of these apartments. At one
o'clock. a plentiful dinner is served ujp in the ball for the
whole society, and at seven they again assemble to sup-
per. In case of sickness they are removed to a comfort-
able infirmary, and provided with every medical assist-
ance. At their decease they are decently interred at the
expense of the society.

Their time is at their own disposal. They may em-
ploy themselves in any occupation which does not inter-
fere with the cleanliness or quiet of the house, and the
profit of their industry furnishes them with pocket-
money .-^There is no unreasonable restriction on any of
their amusements.

This establishment has the strongest claim on the
attention of the stranger. Its plan is equally benevolent
and wise. A subscription, so iucan9ideiab|e as to he

Digitized by Google

CHOXST ftim SEIKS. 46 1

neare^y B0^e«d, much less fek, in the bustle of lifej
secures to old age and infirmity a respectable dwelling ojF
independence, open to them as a right, and as the fruit
of their own prudence and economy.

CHANTJLLY.-This interesting place has been al-
ready described, in the Routes.

CHARENTON is two leagues from Par®, on the road to
Troyes, and is divided into two parts, Charenton le Pont,
so called from the ancient bridge here over the Marne,
and Charenton St. Maurice. It contains a "benevolent
institution for the rfeception «>f lunatics, of which there
are frequently nearly 400. An ancient castle in Charen-
ton, on the right of the road from Paris, once belonged
to the celebrated Gabrielle d'Estrees, and the house
called Le Sefimr du Rot, wa« once the residence of the
Duke of Burgundy. Most of the chateaux afford a
)>lea8ing prospect of the surrounding country. Fgte se-
cond Sunday in July. Cabriolets, Rue de la Roquette.
Pop. 1556.

CHARONNE is a village at the end of the Faubourg
St. Antoine. Vines and other fry it treea are much culti-
vated here* and there are <|uarries. Pop. ^^0,

CHATILLON is charmmgly situated one league and a-
half S.W. of Paris. The prospect^ although not very
extensive, is pleasingly diversified, presenting the course
of the Seine, Mount Valerian, Vincennes, the heights of
Montmartre, and the city of Paris* It is crowded with
chateaux.

Its annual f4te is on the Sunday following the Ist of
May. Pop. 770.

CHOISV SUR SEINE, or CH018Y LE ROI. is situ-
ated about two leagues and a- half from Paris, on the
banks of the Seine. It is defended bt hills from the
scorching winds of the south. The air is remarkably
salubrious, ^nd the vie^ is agreeable and picturesque.
It contains more than three hundred elegant houses,
built in the same style of simple architecture.

A magnificent palace formerly decorated Choisy,
which, after passing into the possession of several of the
Boblesse, was purchased by Louis XV. It was occa-
fiomlljf vistted4>yM«dMtte de Pomp«dour, accompanied

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469 SAINT CLOUD.

by her royal lover. Of this sublime structure and its
beautiful gardens not a vestige now remains; but manu-
factories of earthenware, Spanish leather, and mineral
acids, occupy its site. The church is an elegant build.
ing, with a very low belfry.

The fete is on the Sunday after Aug. 25th, and continues
three days ; it is superior to most in the neighbourhood
of Paris. Boats go to Choisy from the bridge of the
garden of plants^ and cabriolets stand at the gate of St
Antoine.

Cr.lCHY, or CLICHY-LA-GARENNE, is a pretty
village about one league from Paris, and lying between
the right bank of the Seine and the road from St. Denis
to Versailles. The ancient kings of France often resided
here. Dagobert held a solemn council in his palace at
Clichy. Pop. 1500.

SAINT CLOUD ^The village and palace of St. Cloud

are situated about two leagues from Paris, on the banks
of the Seine. This place derives its name from very re-
mote antiquity. Clodoald, or St. Cloud, grandson of
Clovis, having escaped when his brothers were murdered,
retired to this place to escape the persecution of his
uncles, and founded a monastery at the village of Nogent,
now called from him St. Cloud.

The palace of St. Cloud is justly celebrated for its
beautiful prospect, its gardens, its parks, its cascades, and
the master-pieces of painting and sculpture which it con-
tains.

It stands on a deep declivity overhanging the Seine,
and commands an extensive prospect of mingled wildness
and beauty. The situation is picturesque and romantic,
and worthy of becoming the favourite residence of the
roonarchs of France. v

The entrance to the palace is hj an extensive court,
composed of a great range of buildings, and a fe^de
144 feet in length, and 72 in height. Two pavilions at
the extremity form the commencement of two wings less
elevated. On the pediment of the principal front. Time
is represented exhibiting a dial, surrounded by children,
denoting the different parts of the day ; and the cornice ,
is surmounted by statues of Strength, Prudence, Wealth,
nd War. The pediment of the right wing presents a

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BAIVT. C^JiOUP. 468

Btatae of Cybele, and that of the l6ft wing Dellona. The
ascent to the state apartments is by the grand staircase
to the left, the pillars and balustrades of which are com-
posed of the choicest marble.

The principal apartments are distinguished by the fol-
lowing titles, and are embellished by corresponding or-
naments.

First, is the saloon of Mars. It contains twenty
columns of the Ionic order, and each composed |f a sin-
gle piece of marble. The paintings, by Mig&ni, are
deservedly reckoned among his best. On one side are
the Forges of Vulcan ; and on the other Mars and Venus,
surrounded by the Loves and Graces. The ceiling repre-
sents the Asseml^ly of the Gods, called by Vulcan to
witness his dishonour. Over tlie doors are represented
Jealousy and Discord and the' Pleasures of the Gardens.
At the angles of the ceiling is the motto of the Duke
d'Orleans ; and over the mantelpiece is a painting of
Henry II. conferring the order of St. Lasarus upon the
Viscount de Taveme.

The apartment to which this conducts is denominated
the Gallery of Apollo. Over the door is represented
Latona indignant at the insults of the Lib^rans, and dcf^
manding Vengeance of Jupiter. The painting; of the
ceiling is likewise by Mignard. It is divided into nine
compartments. . Apollo, or the sun, is seen issuing from
his palace, accompanied by the Hours, Aurora is seated
in her car, a Cupid scatters flowers before her, and the
break of day chases the last constellations of the night.
The Seasons attend on this superb scene. Spring is re-
presented by the marriage of Flora, and Zepbyrus ; and
Summer by the festival of Ceres ; the sacnficer is in the
act of immolating the victim. Autumn is described by
the festival of Bacchus : Ariadne and the rosy deity are
seated in a car drawn by panthers. Winter is repre-
sented bv Boreas and his children : Cybele implores the
return of the sun ; and the ocean, although agitated by
a storm, has its shores covered with ice. On the ceiling,
also, are four small paintings, representing Clymene
offering her son Phaeton to Apollo ; Cupid presenting
^n^h^ted h^bs to Cir^e; Icarus failing in his flight to

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heavm, tmd Apotio pointing Victue to a brillkiittlifoiie.
Some most magniticent poicelain yasei are Been in Um
gallery j as well as portraits of Louis XV. and his qaeen^
and Loais XVI. and his queen. The windows are
adorned with flowers and fruit, by Fontenay ; aiid there
a^e eight imitations of bas-relief, representing Apollo and
the Sybil; Apollo and Esculapius; the Judgwieat €i
Midas ; the Punishment of Marsyas; the Metamorphosis
of Cord^is ; Daphne transformed into a laurd ; Cyparissus
changed to a cyprus, and Cljrtia to a sunflower.

Nelt is the saloon of Diana. The centre of the ceiU
ing represents Night | and four other paintings describe
the chase, ^e bath, the sleep, and the toilette of Diana.
Some beautiful specimens of Gobelin tapestry will not
be overlooked, particularly the one depictmg the Rape of
Helen.

Adjoining the saloon of Diana, is the chapel adorned
with various specimens of sculpture and paintii^. It is
tepabte of accommodating IM) persons.

The ceiling of the saloon of Louis XVI., or of the
Throne, is painted by Munich, except the figure of
Truth, in tli^ centre, by Prudhomme. The damask
hangings are «f L]fone«e manufecture, and cost 2,5001.
Over the mantelpiece is a portrait of the Grand Danphia,
father of Louis XV.

* The saloon of the Princes was likewise painted by
Munich. The tapestry, of arabesque design, cost 600t
This room is furnished as it was in .the time of Marie
Antoinette. The principal omameots are a clock by
Robin, two vases,^ a bronae bust of the great Cond6, and
two porphyry chandeliers.

Thfe ceiling of the Grand Crimson Saloon,, or HaU of
the Council, is b^- Munich, except the figure of Aarosa,
in the centre, which is by Dooq. The hangings of crim-
son and purple velvet cost 4,500^., and the magnificent
Chandeliers are valued at 500^ each. Here also are four
kirge broaze chandeliers, several vasas, a clack, rept«-
•enting: Lncretia's Death, by Lepaute, and two^ splendid
French cut-glass lustres.

AH the apartmenu are adorned with a magniflceiioa
becoming a royal residence. Those of the Dwhem

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SAXVTCtiOVp. 46i^

d'AfigwiUmey which were occupied by the late E^i^M
Maria Louiaa> form a fairy paUce^ and her boudoir i«
the cabinet of the Graces.

The gardens are universally admired* Natures and
Art combine to render them highly picturesque and
beautiful. Antique and modern statues, temf^es, altars^
sheets of water, groyes, and parterres of flowers^ are
tastefully arranged in every direction ; while an extensive
and pleasing landscape op^ns to the view, and the whole
city of Paris displays itself, intersected by the Seine>
whose innumerable windings give peculiar interest to thei
prospect.

The most striking object is the cascade. It is divided
into two parts. The upper cascade is 108 feet wide, an4
the same in height. Its head is decorated by sculptures
of a river-god and a naiad, representing the Seine and
the Mame. The sheets of water which proceed from
them unite as they fall into a great shell in the centre,
whence flow nine other sheets^ which, in their descent
into a large basin, assume many fantastic forms. An
alley divides the upper from the lower cascade. Three
distinct sheets of water h^e.fall into a circular basin,
thence into a second and a third, and lastl^r into a canal
ornamented with a variety of jets. In the intervals be-
tween the cascade are enormous leaden figures, refHresent-
ing dolphins, frogs, &c., which spout large quantities of
water to an immense distance. In one place a number
of jeta intersect each other in a (leasing manner, and on
the right a single jet rises to the height of 97 feet.

On one of the finest spots in the park stands an obe-
lisk, surmounted by a model of the monument of Lysi-
orates, usually called the lantern of Demosthenes. From
its summit is a fine view.

St Cloud is much frequented, especially on the Sun-
day. An auberge at the foot of the bridge affords rest
and refreshment.

This place was the favourite residence of Buonaparte,
Here he^ projected all his plans for the glory of France
and the subjugation of the world; and here the second
rapitalation of Paris waf signed^ which for ever blasted

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]iia«dMiM of fig^g«Btidki€nieiit, aid' eventaallf deroM
Mm to 4npiteenBieiit en th« foek dfSt. HeleMu

The aDDoal fete is on the first three Sundays after the
ttb* of September. The gardens are then filled with
booths of erery description, the water-works play oa
each of the three Sundays, from 8 to 5 o'clock, and the
whole population of Faris crowds to a scene at all times
MIehtAil, and now enliTOiied by joy and Aestivity. Ca«
, brioiets for St. Cloud stand at the tjuay of the Tuileries*
Pop. 1800.

' COLOMBES is sitoAted about two leagues N.W. of
Faris. Henrietta of England^ daughter of Henry IV., died
At this village in 1660. Pop. 1610. Cabriolets from the
Place IxHiis XV.

COUR DE FRANCE is a hamlet, consisting of only
two or three houses, between Villejuif and Essonne, oo
the road to Fontainebleau. The inn here is remarkable
ai the house at which Buonaparte was stopping when ifr*
formed that the Allies had entered Paris.
' CCK^RBEVCHE.-^This village contains many pleaaaot
Country-seats, and magnificent barracks for the royal
guard. It is situated on one of those delightful eminences
which diversify the left bank of the Seine, and is about
ime league and a-quaiter from Paris, on the road to
St. Germaih. Pop. Id 10. Cabriolets firom the Placa
Louis XV.

SAIFIT C¥R.— This village, situated about one league
from Versailles and five from Paris, was long celebrated
lor an Institution established by Louis XIV., under the
title of the Royal Society of St.Cyr, for the education of
the female nobility. Its first Abbess was the famous
Madame Maintenon, who there ended her days. This
institution was abolished after the Revolution, and the
building appropriated to the reception of wounded sol-
diers. It has since been converted into a school of poln
lie instruction for young men intended for the army.

SAINT DENIS — ^This citjr, about two leagues from
Paris, derives its name from the cathedral so called.

A noble Christian lady, named CatuHa^ caused a chapel
to be buili near the spot on which the present chuidi

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•taadf^ wherein ihe dMpoiittd the nuMiiM of Hht wmijfUd
St Denis and bis companions^ which she bad purehwtil
ftom the executioner. The chapel was sacceserraly aH*
riched by Clotaire, Chilperic, Dagobert, and nmi lun
ancient monarcfas, until it arrived at the acm^ of its
greatness. This once beautiful cathedral was, darinig tba
Revolution^ reduced aknost to a heap of ruimu The
tombs of Guesclin and Turenne, the oriiaMb of Glovi^
the sceptre and sword of Charlemag^, the poHiait and
sword of the maid of Orleans, the bronse chair of Da^o^
bert, and an immense number of reKf^ei'and eoiioiitiea
disappeared. The royal dead were torn from the repoii*
toties of departed greatness^ the bones of hetfoes wei*
made the playthings of children, aad the dast of noBaralM
-was scattered to the wind.

Towards the close of the reign of the late enper^rr thk
venerable structure was repaired. The royal vaults waf«
cleared and improved. The sobterraoean chapels weni
re •established, and fitted up with exquisite taste; and th6
' church of St. Denis has now resumed a c^ntideraMa
portion of its ancient majesty. The grand akar is re-
markably splendid, but can only be seen daring the tina
of service, which commences every day at ten o'cloek.
It was erected for the marriage of Buonaparte and MarfiA
I^ouisa, when it was placed in the gallery of the Loavre.
Buonaparte afterwards presented it to the chvrch of St.
^Denis. Behind the altar is a shrine, containing the lelica
oi St. Denis, which was given by Loais XVIII.

Two expiatory altars have been erected on the right;
one for the race of Meroviagimk monarchs, tbm ether for
the descendants of Charlemi^ne. On the left is an ahat
consecrated to the kings of the third dynasty/ whoeA
names are inscribed on a beautiful column. In the
vaults may be seen the massive bronze gates vfhi6h weri
intended by Buonaparte for the entrance of his* tomb.
The remains of Lx>ui8 XVI. and his queen were fefaniilerre^
to these vaults in 1816,- and here also theDoke de Barry,
two of his children, the Prince de Cond^> and LoM
XVIII. were buried.

The canal from St. Dieaif to 1^110 wat opened in May
1881.

Digitized by Google

46S BflSONNS.

: There aie three fain held at St. Et^nis. T|mi most fie-
quented is that called the Landlt, which commencea oo
the Saturday or Wednesday nearest the Ulh of June,
iand continues fourteen days. The second begins Feb-
ruary 24th, and also continues fourteen days. The third
commences October 9th, and lasts nine days.

Stages from No. 13, Rue du Faubourg St. Dems» and
cabriolets from the same street. Pop. 4250.
. ENGHIEN, about four leagues firom Paris, and a quar-
ter of a league from Montmorency, is built at the extremity
of the smaU.biSt beautiful lake of St. Gratien,and consists
of only one street and several houses on the water side.
It is .celebrated for its sulphur baths and chalybeate
waters, and is very much frequented.

The bath-houses are handso.me buildings, with exten-
.aive grounds ; and for the accommodation of tlie inoaates
and their visiters, there is a table d'hote, every day, at 4
fr. per head. The weekly expen^se for apartments and
loaths is from 25 to SO francs, or the whole expense in-
dnding board, about 60 francs.

. There are also several restaurateurs and coffee-houses
at Enghien, as well as a small public garden. In the
centre of the lake is a restaurateur i^ to which the visiters
must go in boats.

Cabriolets from Rue d'E^hien, and stages three timet
a day, from No. 12, Ruexlu Faubourg St. Denis,

EPINAY-SUR-SEINE,— This village is pleasantly situ-
ated about four leagues from Paris on the road to. Rouen.
The kings of the first dynasty had a country residence
here. Dagobert assembled a great council of the nobles,
and died in the palace, the renMiins of which are scarcely
visible. Among the numerous chateaux, that in the
hamlet of La Briche is remarkable as having been the
residence of Gabrielle d'Estr^es. Pop, 725.

ERMENONVILLE, a village about twelve leagues
fromParis on the road to Flanders. It was formerly much
/requented by persons who went to visit the tomb of
.Housseau, in the Isle of Poplars.-

Coaches from No. 9, Rue du Bouloy.
• ESSONNE is a fine long street between Paris and Fon-
tomebleau about 7^ leagues from Paris. It has a royal

Digitized by Google

SSNTthLYf 469

l^ifp^lrtter mantifactory, as well as mamifacfories of
cottOD, copper^ and printed calicoes. Near it is the ham-
let of Mindin Gallcmt, celebrated for its paper-mills.
Pop. 1800.
. Conveyances from 55, Qaai des Augustins. .

FONTAINEBLEAU.— About thirteen leagues from the
capital stands the palace of Fontainebleau, a spot men-
tioned in some of the earliest records of France. The
edifice, which is a large irregular building, composed of
numerous squares, is much indebted for its magnificence
to the refined taste of Francis I., who was greatly delighted
with this charming retreat. Henry IV. also contributed
to its further embellishment. It has experienced the
efifiects of revolutionary anarchy. There is, however,
sufficient left to compensate for a visit to this sumptuous
residence of jome of the most accomplished and cele-
brated sovereigns that wore the crown of France. It will
long be celebrated as the place where the abdication of
the throne of France and Italy was signed by Buonaparte.
Aprils, 1814.

The palace is situated in a small plain in the centre of
the forest of Fontainebleau, an4 where that forest most
exhibits its peculiar wildness and grandeur. No part of
France can boast of more picturesque and romantic
scenery than the neighbourhood of Fontainebleau.

FONTENAY AUX ROSES, is situated two leagues
S.W. of Paris. The metropolis is supplied with the
greater part of its roses and other flowers from the neigh-
bourhood of this village. In the latter months of spring
the country round Fontenay is completely covered with
flowers. F^te, the first Sunday after July 16th.

Cabriolets for this place stand in the Rue d*Enfer.
Pop. T70.

FONTENAY SOUS BOIS is a village contiguous to
the Park of Vincennes, two leagues east of Paris, ^t
abounds with country-houses, one of which occupies the
site of an ancient convent. Pop. 798. Fete the first Sun-
day in August. Conveyances from Rue de la Roquette.

GENTILLY.—This village, situated on the banks of
the little river Bievre, half a league from the barrier of
Fontaioebleau, is one of the most ancient in the environs
88

Digitized by Google

470 ST. 6SItKAm«'EK-LA7£.

of Paris. The kings of the first dynasty had ft palace
faere^ and the beautiful Diana of Poictiers long inhabited
a chateau in the neighbourhood. These royal residencies
are now no more j but numerous coufitry-houses are seen,
and the guinguettes are crowded on every festival. Pop.
5S00. F^te, second Sunday in May.

SAINT GERM AIN-EN-LAYE.— Pour leagues from
Paris stands the city of St. Germain-en -Laye^ which de-
rives its name from the adjoining forest of Laye. It is^
like many other places in the environs of the capital, of
the greatest antiquity. The old palace was appropriated
to receive the kings of France when they took the diver-
sion of the chase in the forest of Laye, the largest and
finest in the kingdom, containing 5,700 acres. Henry IV.
built what was called the New* Palace, which is now
converted into barracks. The situation is peculiarly
beautiful. The palace stands on the edge of a steep
declivity hanging over the Seine, and a beautiful terrace
stretches from it along the heights that border the river
for more than a mile. The declivity is clothed with
Vineyards and fruit trees. Beyond the Seine is an im-
mense plain, diversified with chateaux and woods, with
the towers of St. Denis in the remote distance. Behind
is the noble forest of St. Germain.

The city of St. Germain-en-Laye is well peopled, the
houses are commodious, the streets wide and weU paved,
with several fine squares. It consists of one parish only,
and, prior to the Revolution, contained some celebrated
religious houses. That of Peres des Logis, situated in
the forest, is well worthy of observation. It was founded
by Anne of Austria, the consort of Louis XIII., in 1644.
The hotel de Noailles likewise deserves the stranger's
attention; it was built on a very grand scale, from the
design of Mansard. St. Germain was for many years
the residence of James II., after he abdicated the English
crown. He ended his days here in 1700, worn out with
grief and the vicissitudes of fortune. His body was re-
entombed with great ceremony in 1824. There is a neat
theatre at St. Germain, in which -the Parisian actors occa-
aionally perform.

Tvo fttes are held ammally at St. Gertnain. The flwt.

Digitized by Google

IBBY. 471

called Fdte de St Lbqis, is held at the entrance ot the
forest, near the gate of Poissy^ on the Sunday after the
95th of August, and continues three days. The second,
called FSte des Leges, also continues three days, begin-
ing on the first Sunday after August 30th, and next to
thatofSt. Cloud, is one of the most frequented in the
environs of Paris. It is held in the forest ; and the pecu-
liarity of the situation gives to it a highly pleasing and
picturesque appearance. It concludes with the fevourite
amusement of the French* a splendid ball.

Cabriolets for St. Germain stand at the quay of the
Tuileries, and Rue de Rohan.

ST. GRATIEN is a village about three leagues north
of Paris. It is the place where Marshal Catinat died.

Conveyances from Rue d'Elnghien.

GR£N£LLE«~The plain of Crenelle is situated be-
tween Issy and Vaugirard. It is noted for its powder ma-
nufactory^ and as the place of military executions. The
unfortunate Labedoyere was shot here, Aug. 13, 1815.

GROSBOIS, four leagues S.E. of Paris, is celebrated
for iu chateau, which has been successively occupied by
Louis XVIII. when Count of Provence, Barras, Moieaa,
and Berthier.

Conveyances, Rue Geoffrey TAsnier.

JOUY EN JOSAS is a village about four leagues from
Paris, on the banks of the Bievre. It has a beautiful
chateau, and a very large linen manufactory. Its f§te is
on the first Sunday after 1 6th of August.

Conveyances from Place Louis X V.

ISSY is a village situated on a little hill about one
league and a-qoarter from Paris, and not far from the
Seine. It derives its name from an ancient temple dedi*
cated to Isis, no vestige of which now remains, except
some Roman building in the cellars of the seminary of
St. Sulpice may be considered as part of it. The ancient
palace of Childebert yet stands on an eminence op-
posite to the Church, and is an interesting Gothic
structure.

Here the admirable actress Mademoiselle Clairon re-
sided, and was often visited by the most celebrated
chaiacteis cf the times. It was here that the Cardinal

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i7S LVOtB^^EB.

de Noaines, Bossuet^ Fenelon, and Tronioii assembled,
to hold those meetings known under the name of the
Conferences of Issy. F^te, first Sunday after September
17th.

Cabriolets from the Rue d'Enfer. Pop. 1025.

IVRY is on the summit of one of the little hills that
enrich the left bank of the Seine, about three-quarters
of a league from Paris. It is crowded with conntry-seato.
In the grounds attached tp one of them are immense
cellars hewn out of the rock, and capable of coDtainiog
100,000 hogsheads of wine. The annual fke is on the
first Sunday in May. Pop. 1000.

LIVRY is about four leagues from Paris, on the road
to Meaux. The chateau was once a place of streng^th and
importance. Louis-le-Gros besieged it in the wars
which he carried on against the Count of Champagne.
He mounted to the assault himself, and was wounded in
the thigh by a pike. This redoubled the ardour of the
besiegers, and the place was taken and dismantled.
Malherbes and Madame de Sevigny inhabited Livry. It
was under its delightful shades that this amiable woman
eomposed those letters to her daughter, which are a
model of elegance and delicacy.

Cabriolets from Rue St. Martio.

LUCiENNES, or, Louvbcienne. — This chateau, near
the village of Marly, and three leagues and a-quarter
from Paris, was built by Le Doux in three months, for
the residence of Madame du Barry. The delightful pros-
pect which the place affords, the talents of tl:^ architect,
the sculptures, the paintings and decorations, all united
to make Luciennes a model of magnificence, elegance,
and beauty. Since the Revolution, however, almosC
every moveable has been sold, the bas-reliefs have been
mutilated, the fine cornices broken, and the hand of anar-
chy has left its destructive traces en every work of art.

The entrance presents a peristyle of four pillars with
niches, in which are marble statues, and a bas-relief
representing a group of Bacchanalian children. From
the sumptuous saloon the eye is gratified by the view
of an extensive tract of country. On the left is St
Germain, on the right Paris, and in front Vesinch and

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lUftXiT. 473

St. Denis/ with the mer Seine ia tH its delightful
aeanderiog^a.

MAfSONS ALPORT is a village on the left bank of
the Marne, two leagues S.W. of Paris. It has a whaif,
where cofd, wine, iron, and wood are landed for the sup-
ply of Paris. The stone tower of the church was erected
by the English during their intasion of France. Pop. 800.
Fdte second Sunday in July.

Conveyances from Rue de la Roquette.

MALMAISON is about two leagaes tmd a-half from
Paris. This building, which was long the residence of
Buonaparte, is by no means well-constructed. The
apartments were formerly decorated with the finest speci*
mens of painting and sculpture, but though these orna-
ments have been removed, they are still entitled to atten-
tion. A few years since two pavilions were built at the
entmnce of the avenue conducting to the edifice. It is
surrounded by a park,and has fine gardens attached to it,
containuig seventy -five acres. The gardens are well water-
ed, and their situation extremely picturesque. Previously
to Napoleon's possessing this mansion^ it was falling to
ruin, but it has been completely repaired by Percier and
Fontaines. Here the ex-empress Josephine expired in
1816. The Abb^ DeliUe has immortaliaed the rivulet of
Malmaison. It is not, however, the stream which flows
through the gardens that has employed his pen, but m
little rivulet winding through a long avenue of spreading
chesnut^trees. Tickets for viewing Malmaison may be
obtained by application to the Baron d'Amey, No. 6^
Roe de Buffault at Paris.

Diligences from the Place Louis XY . and the Rue de
Rohan.

SAINTE MANDE.— .This village, about three^uarters
df a league from Paris, is, composed almost entirely of
the country-houses of the Parisian^ merchants, and has a
very pleasing appearance. The annual f^ b on the
Sunday atter St Peter's Day. There is a ball every Sun-
day during the summer in the wood of St. Mand6.

Cabriolets for St. Mand6 stand in the Rue de la Ro*
qnette.
MARI/Y.>.«^bout three leagues and a-half from Purir

3S8

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474. MB17DOK.

18 the village of Marly. At the foot of a siipeib eaacade,
and below the most delightful gardens, formefly Btood a
sumptuous chateau, the residence of Louis XIV. It was
demolished during the reign of revolutionary fury. On
its site now stands a cotton-mill.

The principal curiosity of the place is the steam-
eogine for supplying Marly ttnd Versailles with water
from the Seine, which has replaced the old and cele-
brated machine. Pop. 1200.

Stages from the Place Louis XV., and Rue de Rohan.

SAINT MAUR is situated two leagues from Paris, in a
peninsula formed by the river Maroe. It is celebrated
in history on account of the massacre of the Christiana by
the troops of Attila. The witty and licentious Rabelais
here composed bis Pantagruel. In this place the Bio*
thers of the Passion {first performed their mysteries.

The chateau was built by Catherine de Medicis. The
front towards the garden still retains its cmcieot aisclii-
tecture, but the f est of this palace is modern* and deco*
rated in the most sumptuous manner ; while the gardens,
which were embellished by the famaus Le Notre, are
laid out in a style that confers booour upon his acknow-
ledged talents.

A canal is nearly completed, to shorten the navigation
of the Mame. It commences at this place^ and termi-
nates at Charenton St. Maurice. The tunnel through a
hill is more than half a mile in length, and at the ei-
tremity of the canal is a large basin capable of contain-
ing, a thousand boats.

The annual f^te is on the Sunday after St. John's Day,
and afibrds every kind of amusement. Cabriolets for SL
Maur stand at the gate of St. Antoine, and at the Rue
de la Roquette. Pop. ^60.

. MEUDON.— About two leagues S.W. of Paris -stands
the village of Meudon, dating its origin from the earliest
period of antiquity. The palace stands upon an eminence
commanding an extensive view of Paris and its environs.
The stranger arrives at the edifice by a very fine avenue,
at the end of which is a superb terrace, 260 yards in
length, serving as a court-yard to the bui Wing, which was
TiginalJy erected by the Cardinal de Lpnaine> in the

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»ONtMiLR*rR&« 475

ittH e#fttiiTy, lifter the d6si^s of PlilKb«rt 4e Laraia.
When Monsiear de Louvois became the possessor of
MetidoD; he employed Matraard to superintend the for-
mation of the tertace, moats^ and the grand entrance of
iron-work.

The front of the palQce presents a most majestic coup
cPoBil. It is ornamented with arcades and.pilasters. The
centre pavilion, which is rounded oflf at the eitremities,
projects from the main fa^e of the edifice, and is
adorned with a second order of pilasters and bas-reliefs,
representing the four Seasons. The whole terminates
with a pediment, upon which are two recumbent statues,
flmd an octagonal vaulting which supports a terrace.
The apartments of this palace are numerous, and deco-
rated in the most suraptuons manner; while the gardens,
which were embellished by Le Notre, are laid out in
the very best style of that celebrated French ^rdener;

DeUile has immortalised them in h» beautiful poems.
The view from the' terrace is o^e of the most interesting
in the neighbourhood of Paris.

The village of Meudon is very mediocre, and would
indeed be altogether unworthy observation, were it not
rendered conspicuous from having had the celebntted
Rabelais for its curate, before his removal to St. Maur.

At' the bottom of the hill of Meudon, and at a short
distance from the banks of the Seine, are the immense
chalk quarries of Moltneaux, which are well deserving
the attention of the curious.

Meudon is much frequented by the Parisians in the
sumtner. F^te on the two Sundays after the 4th of
July* Cabriolets for this place stand at the Quai des
Tuileries.

MONTM ARTRE is a village on a hill at a shbrt dis-
tance N.N.W. of Paris. Its name was probably derived
from a temple dedicated to Mars, the remains of which
were to* be seen here two centuries ago. Many persons,
however, trace its name to the martyrdom of St. Denis,
which took place liere.

It is lemarkable for its limestone quarries, and the
windmills which crown the top of the hill. The inha-
bitant* of Paris often climb thia hill to adniie ibm

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470% MOfnmoMmarw

diiUnet and compkte yiew wMoh it atfoTdi •! tiseit
oUy.

Montnaitre oontaina moBy pleaiant countiy'^iouseft,
and numerous guinguettes. Pop. 950.

MONTMORENCY is a little village, four leag^ues and
a^lMilf from Pahft, placed od as etiiinenoe wbieh gives it
an extensive prospect and a salabrious air. All Hurt
remains of the magnificence of tbe dukes of Montmoo
leney is found in the ohureh, which affonis a p^ect
specimen of Gothie architeotore> and containt some
ourious painted glass.

The Hermitage, to which visiters generally proceed
on donkeys,^ hired in the Grande Place, is situated on
the declivity of a hil^ and i» much frequented on ttcoounC
of- having been the residence of J. J. Rousseau, who
composed bis Nouvelte H^loise here. It was afterwards
inhabited by Gretr^, the composer, who died here in
1«U. Tbe bonfee itself is remaikable neither for ele-
gance nor neatness, and the gardens are by no measii
extensive ; but they afe prettily laid out, and posaeai
atuch inteteat fi^m having been the retneat of thtte
dminvnt men. In the centre of the grounds is shown tb«
aaat where Rousseau composed the works whiek have
given hian actch celebrity, and in a corner of the
garden is aeen • his bn«t« ao much disfigured by in-
scriptions, that it has been found necessary to put a
glass window b«lbrfe it. In a room of the house ii
placed a board for visiters to inscribe their aaniee, an4
in the saAe apaitidaent is the bedstead on which Rous-
aeau slept. Here al9o may be seMi the oup and aaueer>
which Oretfy used to the day of hSs death, the comb
with which he arranged his hair, the handkerchief which
be wrapped round his head, and the original of the in-
tonption which he wrote upon the tomb of bis friend
and master Rousseau. Near the Hermitage is a good
inn called the Rendezvous.

The chateau here called the Luxembourg, was erected
by the famous Lebrun in the time of Louis XIV., and is
remarkable for its fine plantations and noble prospects.

T5l ^'^* de mte of the valley of Montmorency is
considered one of the most beatfwiil and pictuxea^

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POMT td K1R7ILLT. 49^

in Fiaikse. The White Horse is the best ion. Cahrip-
lets for Montmorency stand at the gate of St. Dents.
The aoBoal fhe is on the first and second Sunday after
July 25th.

MONTREUIL, one league E. of Paris and near Vin-
cennes, is noted for its peaches. F^te on the first Sunday
in July.

MONTROUGE, le Grand et Petit, are two little vil-
lages, commencing at the Barridre d'Enfra*. They con-
tain numerous well-frequented guioguettes. Freron, the
celebrated critic, had a country-house at Le. Grand Moot-
rougie. Pop. 810.

MORTFONTAINE is a chateau twelve leagues N.E.
of Paris. It was once the property of Joseph Buona«
parte.

MOULIN JOLI ^The gardens of Moulin Joli, in

some little islands of the Seine, a league and three-
c^narter* from Paris, well deserve the traveller's atten-
tion.

NANTERRE is two leagues and a-half from Paris, on
the road to St. Germain. It in celebrated for its excellent
sausages and cakes ; but more so as the birth*p)ace of
the humble shepherdess who became the patron saint
of Paris. Pop. 1500. F^, First Sunday after the
F^te Dieu. Conveyances from Rue de Rohan and Place
Louis XV.

NEUILLY, or Pont i>b Neuilly.— This village,
situated upon the banks of the Seine, on the road from
Paris to St. Germain, about two leagues from the Bar-
ri&re de I'Etoile, has acquired much celebrity on ac-
count of its magnificent bridge, delightful gardens, and
the interesting views which it commands. In 1606
there was only a ferry at this village, but an event
which nearly terminated the lives of Henry IV. and
his suite, led to the construction of the bridge. The
monarch was returning from St. Germain with his queen,
and several of his noblesse : on approaching the river,
the horses, frightened by a thunder-storm, precipitated
themselves into the water, dragging the vehicle into
the deepest part ; and had not the most timely assistance
been given, that g^eat king and his companions innst

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4ft STf OPW-fTO-^WKE,

inevitably hare perished, Tke brM^ which wae hniU
p{K>n thii occasion only lasted thirty-five years; afta
which period the present superb structure was planned
and executed, being 750 feet long, and composed o(
five arches, each 120 feet wide, and 30 feet in height.
It was erected after the design of Peronnet. It was
opened with great ceremony in T772, in preseiice of a
vast concourse of people* and Louis XV. was the first
who drove over it in his carriage. This spot has to
boast of many noble houses, which belong to the opu-
lent and fashionable inhabitants of the French metro-
polis. The numerous little streams which descend from
the hill contribute much to the embellishment of the
gardens. The annual f§te is on the first Sunday aftei
24th of June.— Cabriolets at the quay of the Tuilehes*
Pop. 2260.

NOGGNT-SUR-MARNE is a large village agreeably
situated on the summit of one of the little hills that bor-
der the Marne two leagues from Paris. The annual
(He is on Whitsunday and two following days. The
Parisians deliver themselves up to amusements and plea-
sures of every kind, and prices are distributed to tha
Skost skilful archers.

Cabriolets for Nog^t stand at the gate of St. Antoine.

NQ1SY-LE-SEC.--This village is beautifully situated
on an eminence a league and three-quarters eastward of
Paris. It contains a great number of agreeable chateaux.
On the front of the church is a curious inschptioiu
Pop. 1520«

ORLY is a village three leagues S. of Paris. It ii
remarkable as having held om against the English fot
three months in 1360. The tower of the church is said
to be in the same state as the besiegers left iC Pop. 500.
FSte, June I. Cabriolets from Rue d'Enfer.

St. OUEN-SUR-SEINE.— Should the traveller pass
through this village^ which is about a league and a-half
from Paris, on the banks of the Seine, he will acknow-
ledge that, although it is situated on a plain, the number
of chateaux, the pleasing views of the river which they
command, and the picturesque arrangement of the gar*
dens, render it one of the most inviting retreats for the

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PLXSdt-PIQUET. 4ffy

rich merehante and eitizens of Paris. Loutu XVITI.
stopped at the chateau (since demolished)^ at Ais
place, previous to his entry into Paris.

On the 24th of August a fair is held here, which con-
tinues three days, and is much frequented by the Pa*
risians. Pop. 680.

OURCQ. See Canal db l'Ourcq.

PANTIN, a Tillage about two miles and a-half from
Paris, where there are stone quarries. Pop. 980.

PASSY.— This delightful village is situated upon an
eminence on the banks of the Seine, a short league from
the centre of Paris. Its vicinity to the capital, the Bois
de Boulogne, and the river, renders it peculiarly inte-
resting.' It is likewise esteemed for its mineral waters,
the salubrity of its air, and the most charming views in
every direction.

In this village are many handsome houses, one of
ivhich was the residence of the celebrated Dr. Franklin
after his return from America. Here likewise the Abb6
Raynal died in 1796, and Piccini, the composer, in
180S. At the extremity of Passy is a spacious esplanade
covered with turf, whence the view of several fine struc-
tures presents a most agreeable contrast with the wavy
Terdore of the Bois de Boulogne, which in this direction
assumes a very picturesque appearance. Here also is a
small theatre, and a building called Ranelagh, in which
there is a fSte champMre every Sunday during the sum-
mer. Pop. 2820.

PIERREFITTE.— This village is two leagues and a-
quarter north of Paris, on the road to Beauvais. It is
situated on the declivity of a small hill, and contains the
chateau of M. Faucompret de Vieuxbanc, celebrated for
its valuable collection of rare and beautiful plants.
Pop. 700.

PLESSY-PIQUET is two leagues and a-half S.W. of
Paris. The castle belonging to the Due de Masse is
worth seeing. The terrace commands a noble prospect,
extending as far as Paris. The annual f^te is on the
S4th of July. The peasants assemble on a beautiful
lawn, and amuse themselves with dancing, and various
recreations. F6te, Sunday after Mary Magdalen^s Paf

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4a0 KivoT*

Cftbrioleto for Vlfiuj jtand in the Jlne d'Ei^te . P6p.

PCHSSY is a small and ancient town on tbe .road to
Gnen, about five leagues from Paris. . It is celebrated for
its cattle maiket, whence the capital is sapplied, ami for
its stone bridge, which is one of the longest in Prance.
St. Louis was born at Poissy^ April 24> 12 15, in a <^ateaii
which was pulled down by his son Philip le Uardi, and
the present church erected on iti site. The high aliat
is said to occupy the exact spot where he was bom, and
in one of the chapels of the nave is preserved his bap-
tismal font. The painted windows also represent his
birih.

Pop. 2400. Cabriolets from the Place Louis XV.
PRES ST. GERVAIS is a ddightful village about
half a league N.E. of Paris. It abounds with guing^uettes,
country-houses, and pleasing walks> and is very much
fitequenied as a promenade. In going to this village the
heights of Belleville may be avoided by taking the Pantin
road. Pop. 2 30. Fete, first Sunday in August.

PUTEAUX is a league and three-quarters westward of
Pbris. The neighbourhood of the village is pne unin-
terrupted garden, delightful both to the eye and smell
It is celebrated for its early vegetables and asparagus.
Some beautiful chateaux adorn the banks and inlands of
the Seine. Pop. 1200.

RAMlBOUILL£T is a considerable market, town, ten
leagues and a half S.W. of Paris, on the road to Char' -
tres. It has a royal chateau, in which Francis L died,
and Louis XIV . held his courts. The room in^whicb he
slept remains in the same state as when, he leP^it. The
dairy is all of white marble, and in tl^ parkis a flock
of Merino sheep.

RINCY, or RAINCY, is a cliateau four lec^bea from
Paris, on the road to Strasburg. It formerly belonged to
the late Duke of Orleans^ but during the Revolution
became the property of a banker, and afterwards of Buo-
naparte. At the restoration it was given up to the Or-
leans family. The park and gardens have been much
neglected, but they still retain many beauties > and the
rural scenery by which they are 9arroanded cannot fail

SOBAUX. 481

to deltelit. The skilfal disposition of the mirrors in
some of the apartments^ so as to reflect the charming
•cenerj around, will not escape observation.

Voitnres from Rue St. Martin,

ROMAIN VILLE is situated one league and a half frpm
Paris. The wood in the neighbourhood of this village
is a favourite resort of the Parisians. The grounds of
the chateau in the wood are pleasingly ornamented by
numerous basins and canals ; and there is another cha-
teau called Moulin de Romainville^ more delightfully
situated, with numerous plantations tastefully laid out.
The annual f&te is celebrated with much pomp on July
31st. The cabrioleU stand at the gates of St. Denis and
St. Martin. Pop. 980.

ROSNY is two leagues and a quarter from Paris, in the
direction of Montreuil. Like many of the villages in the
neighbourhood of Paris, it is priucipally devoted to the
cultivation of vegetables. Pop. 940.

RUELLE, or RUEIL. This is a large village two
leagues and a-quarter west of Paris, situated at the
foot of a delightful hill, and containing S,000 inhabi-
tants. The chateau and park are very magnificent, and
the barracks are some of the noblest in the vicinity of
Paris. The chateau was inhabited by Cardinal Riche-
lieu, and afterwards by Marshal Massena. . In the church
are deposited the remains of the Empress Josephine,
and in the chapel of St. Joseph, near the altar, is a
monument erecte<f to her memory by her son Eugene
Beauhamois. It was constructed from designs by Ber-
thaut. On the right of this monument is the tomb
which the Empress erected in honour of her uncle the
Count de la Tacherie. Cabriolets at the quay of the
Tuileries, and in the Rue de Rohan.

RUNCnS.— -This village is two leagues and a-quarter
from Paris on the road to Fontainebleau, and is prin-
cipally remarkable as the source of the waters which
the aqueduct of Arcueil conveys to Paris. Pop. 160.

SCEAUX is two leagues south of Paris, on the road to

Orleans. It formerly contained a magnificent castle, at

first the property of Colbert, but afterwards of the duke

of Penthi^vre, the tery raiiui of which have almost dis

Digitized by Google

48e STEtUS.

appeared. In this chateau Florian died \n 1794. Part
of the garden remains, and is a favourite promenade of
the Parisians. The market, by which Paris is princi*
pally supplied with cattle, is held here every Monday.
On every Sunday, from the 1st of May to the Ist of No-
vember, the park and garden are crowded by the mid-
dle and lower classes of the Parisians. Dancing com-
mences in the evening., in a spacious rotunda, and ii
continued until a late hour. FSte on the first Sunday
after June 24th. The cabriolets to Sceaux stand in the
Rue d'Enfer. Pop. 1450.

SEINE. — ^The river Seine rises in the forest of Sainte
Seine, and after receiving the waters of the Aube, the
Yonne, and the Mame, crosses Paris from Eeist to Wesli
and divides it into nearly two equal parts. The length
of its course through the city is about 2000 yards. Its
breadth at the Pont du Jardin des Plantes is 420 feet, at
the Pont Neuf 909 feet, and at the Pont de FEcole Mili*
taire 418. It usually flows at the rate of 30 inches in a
second. /

The river contains various kinds of fish, but its prin-
cipal advantage to Paris is the facility which it present*
for the conveyance of provisions, and the communication
It affords with Havre and Rouen.

SEVE, or SEVRES*— Two leagues W. of P&ris, on
the banks of the Seine, and n6ar the park of St. Cloud, is
the celebrated Porcelain manufactory of Sdvres. For
brilliancy of colour, and delicacy of execution, the por-
«?elain of S6ve is perhaps unrivalled.

The visiter will meet with every attention at the ma-
nufactory. An extensive range of apartments, crowded
with the most beautiful articles, is open to his inspec-
tion. The minutest examination is allowed, and the
price affixed to each article. See Manufactories.
Behind the manufactory of S^vrei is a house in which
Lully composed part of his works.

Cabriolets for Sevres stand at the quay of the Tuil-
eries, near the Place Louis XV.

STTEINS.— This village is three leagues north of Paris,
and two ;iorth-east of St. Denis. The chateau is worth
-visiting, not only on account of its pleasant sitaatioB^

Digitized by Google

PETIT TRIAKOK. 488

although the ^ountry round it is comparatively flat, but
for an extensive collection of aquatic birds, and the
rarest and most beautiful species of deer. Pop. 720.

SURENE is a large village two leagues west of Paris,
situated on the declivity of a hill, on the banks of the
Seine. The festival of the Rosi^re is held here on the
first Sunday after the f^te of St. Louis. The rector se-
lects three girls of the village most distinguished for
their good conduct, and from these the parish officer!
elect one, who is crowned with a garland of roses, and
receives 300 francs. It is said that the stranger should
be cautious what wine he drinks at Surene. Cabriolets
for Surene stand in the Place Louis XV.

TRIANON is within the enclosure of the park of Ver-
sailles, on the right of the great canal, and was built by
Mansard, at the command of Louis XIV., on the spot
where the village of Trianon formerly stood. The front
is 384 feet in length. Between the windows are elegant
pilasters of Languedoc marble, of the Ionic order. Two
wings are terminated'by two pavilions, which are united
by a peristyle, composed of twenty-two columns of red
marble. The roof, in the. Roman style, is surrounded
by balustrades, ornamented with vases and groups of
Utile cupids.

The interior of the palace corresponds with its exterior
embellishments, and is adorned with some fine pictures.
The gallery and the billiard-room present some exquisite
views of the scenery of the gardens and park. The
^pirdens form the principal charm ,* they are tasteful and
luxuriant beyond description. Every beautiful shrub
and flower of every climate blooms here: it is in truth
a fairy scene. It used to be said of the three principal
gardens planted by Louis XIV., that Versailles was the
garden of waters; Marly the garden of trees; but
Trianon the garden of flowers. Trianon was much fre-
quented by Louis XIV., XV., and XVL, as well as by
Buonaparte.

PETIT TRWfiO^.^ Little Trianon.J— This small
palace, situated at one of the extremities of the park of
Great Trianon, consists of a pavilion, in the Roman
style^ forming a complete square. Each front measoies

8T 2

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4S4 VBRSAILL88.

about eighty feet in lengthy cfo^isntihg bft^o storied
above the' ground-floor, and each eihibits a different
specimen of architecture. The whole is decorated with
the Corinthian order, and crowned with' a fine balus-
trade ; the columns and pilaflters being 'fluted from the
top to the bottom. The most delicate and finished taste
is observable in the construction of this edifice, which
was built by Gabriel, at the command of Louis XV.
The pleasure-grounds consist of gardens^ laid out in the
English and French taste ; being diversified with statues^
orangeries, a musical saloon or theatre, grottoes, tem<
pies, cottages, cascades, and canals. The gardens are
now, however, going to decay. The little Temple of
Love, among artificial rocks, and embowered amid the
thickest trees, has been pillaged. The cottages are dila-
pidated, and the lake is almost dry. '

This little palace was the favourite resort of the un-
fortunate Marie Antoinette, and here, in 1814, the Em-
press Maria Louisa had her first interview with her
rather after the abdication of Buonaparte.

VALERIEN, see CALVAIRJE.

VAUGIRARD..^This is a pretty village on -the South-
west of Paris, and immediately under its walls. It is
filled with guinguettes, to which the Parisians resort on
Sundays and festivals.

VERSAILLES Thiscelebrated city, about four leagues

from Paris, was formerly but an inconsiderable village,
the surrounding country beine successively acquired by
Louis XIII. and XIV. from the bishop of Pans. The
latter monarch caused the estate to be apportioned into
difierent lots, which he divided among numerous indi-
viduals, who were compelled to erect on each allotment
an appropriate residence. ^ Such was the origin of tbb
city, which owes its lustre' to Louis XIV., who certainly
placed it on a par with cities of the secondary order.
. The palace stands upon an elevated spot, being com-
pletely isolated, and affords a remarkable instance of the
persevering spirit of that monarch, who, in this under-
^•''wg, appeared anxious to render even nature herself
subservient to his views. The period of seven years was
employed m completing the palace, peik, and gardens.

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VERSAILLIS. 48$

Th«7 were commenced in 1678^ and finUbed in 1680, ai
appears from a medal engraved upen this oocaiian by
the Royal Academy of Inscriptions and the Belles Letlres,
The palace was erected after the plans and under the
inspection of Mansard.

On either side of an avenae are edifices for different
officers of the suite ; and the great and small stables,
-which are remarkable for the regularity and taste which
they display, as well as choice specimens of sculpture.

This aveoue conducts to the Place d'Armea, having
traversed which, the traveller arrives at the first court,
called the court of the ministers, being erected for theii
reception. Hence he proceeds to that of the palace,
which terminates with the marble court, so called from
being paved with squares of variegated marble. The
buildings which surround this place, together with a
portion of 'those in the former court, constituted part of
the old palace, built by Louis Xlll. Two arcades con-
duct to the northern and southern terraces. On this side
of the palace is a vestibule decorated with the Ionic
order, the ceiling being in compartments. This vestibule
leads to the chapel, the opera, and the small comic
theatre..

Having examined this quarter of the building, the
traveller proceeds along the northern terrace between
large pieces of water, and at length has a complete view
of the decorations and extent of the palace. It is more
than 800 feet in length, consisting of a first story and
the attic, decomted with Ionic pilasters, with fifteen
projecting buildings, supported by isolated columns of
the same order, and ornamented with statues, repre-
senting the seasons, the months, and the arts.

Above the attic is an entablature after the Roman
taste, surmounted by balustrades, decorated with vases
and trophies. The entrance i[nto the interior is by a
marble staircase, whither the stranger repairs by the
arcade of the chapel, proceeding along the gallery that
conducts to the vestibule, and passing by the depdt con-
taining the archives of the department.

On entering the fine range of apartments, the traveiltr
will no longer be gratified with a view of all the paints

2T 8

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4M VSBiAUUEV.

i^p Mid orflamrato whieh fbrmeilf eoBsdlolsd , tbeif
pnoeiml beaoty ; many of them weie coareyed to P&ria
to embelliih the natioDal maseum, and otheri have since
besD reatoT«d to thote to whom ^y n^btfolly beloBged ;
bat Venailles can yet boast of some of the best woika
•f the greatest mastefs of the Freoeh school, and the
ipletidid decorations of oiost of the saloons caimot lail to

As the traTeller enters by the staircase on th^ north
tartaee, the first apartmeot into which he is ushered is
^Med the Saloon of Herceles. This chamber, which is
the admira^on of every spectator, and forms the glory
of the Ffcoch school, is indebted fei its magniicence to
the taste of Loois XV. It is sizty^foar feet long^, and
ifty wide. It is decorated by twenty Corinthiaa pilasters
of macble, the pedestels of which are brass, and the
capitals of gilded metal sapporting a btimisbed cornice
ornamented with trophies. The pedestals are supported,
by green marble, and the psMels of Antin mmrble. The
celling, the pfodaetioB of P. Le Moine, is one of the
finest compositiofis that exists. Olympas itself appears
to open, displayiDg all theda^es of the heathen my>
tholoffy, with their respective ^tributes. Nine groups
and three compartments represent the labours aod apo-
theosis of Hetcoles* These groups, consistii^ of 148
fi^ess detached from the ceiKng in a most extraordinary
Manner, are inclosed in a fictitious attic of v^naH white
marble, with'violet-coloiired panels, while ofer them
is the cornice, crowned with oak garlands, in imitatioB
of stucco. ^ ^

- In this sak>on are also «wo oelebmled pictures of Paul
Veronese. The first, presented to Louis XIV. by th^
republic of Venice, is fiDurteen feet high, and thirteen
long, and represents our Saviour at die house of Simon
the Pharisee. The second, over the marble chimney-
piece, decorated with bronze, is nine feet aod a-hsUf
high, and nine feet nine inches long, representing Re-
becca receiving from Eliezer the gifts of Abraham.
The frames of these pictures, which are the workman-
ship of Vass^, seem incorporated with the marble, and
4S9 fui^KMted by gilt brackets* ^the e^Qtm of this

VWBLUAlLiatt. 487

a)ift)KiAe&t ifl pteced the statae ol Copid bending hii
bov, -trhich formerly adorned the Temple of Love at
Petit Triaaon.

The' second saloon ab called the Hall of Plenty, the
ceiling of which was from the pencil of liouiaste. At
the extremity of the chamber the goddess appears seated
on a pedestal, which. is sunoonded by a railiog. On
either side appear two statues, representing ApoUa and
Ganymede.

The third is the saloon d Venus. On the ceilings
this goddess is lepr^^oted on a cat drawn by dores^ a^
being eibwned by the Graces^ Four pictares also adorn
this room : they rejnresent Ndbnchodonosor consCmotii^
the ganJens of Babylon ; Angastus presiding over- Horse-
races which took plcu^e in tbe Circus he had buik ; Alex-
ander's Marriage with Roxana; and Cyrus reviewing his
Troops. These paintings were executed by Hourasse
and other pupils of Le Brun.

The fourth is the saloon of Diana.; the ceiling of which
was decorated by Blanchard» and displays the moon,
under the Dgure of Diana, sea^ on a car drawn by two
hinds, and accompanied by tha Hoars, together with the
attributes of hsBting and navigation. There are four
other paintings by Audtaa and Lafosse, the latter of
whom executed the beautiful representation of the sa*
crifioe of Iphigcnia, which hai^s over the chio^oey-

g'ece. Beneath is a bas-relief in white marble, hj the
moan Sarrasin, representing the Flight into £gypt« At
the end of the room is a bust ci Louis XIV., by Beraini.

The grand staircase, so much celebrated for the
beauty of its construction, and the noble paiatinp with
which Le Brun has enriched it, communicates with this
hall.

• Tin fifth saloon is that of Mars. The taknts of
Audran were exerted in the decoration of the ceiling, on
which the god is displayed in his car, surrounded by mi-
litary attributes, and drawn by wolves. The figures of
Terror, Fury, and Revenge, in another coinpartment of
the ceiling, are by Itourasse; and those of Victory and
Hercules, by Jouvenet.

Two Hatoaty npiesenting Health and Sickness^ which

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Uam^f deoomM TriaBODiSow ooDtrilrtte to enibellkh
tliis apaHineiit.

Next is the saloon of Mercury. The ceiling was
pidDted by Philip CbampAgne aCter the designs of Le
BzuDf and represents the gt)d in his car, environed by
cbacacterislic figures* Four other paintings by Uie same
artist ornament this apartment. A magnificent eabinet,
formerly designed to inclose some precious relics, will
particularly attract the attention. A curious clock, by
Mofand, is likewise shown. Two cocks crow the quar-
ters, and two slaves strike the hours on laige globes,
wfatoh project for the purpose. A beaottful set of chimea
tben begin to play, during which a door opens in the
centre, a figure of Louis XIV. presents itself, sufrounded
with a Glory, and Victory fdaces a crown of laniel on
its head.

The Saloon of Apollo comes next in succession. The
ceiling, painted by Lafosse, displays that dirinity in hia
chariot aeoompanied. by the Seasons, Flora, Ceres, Bac-
chus, and Saturn. The figures of France, Magnanimity,
and Munificence, which foUow the car, show that the
painter has represented Louis XiV. under the figure of
the Sun* The paintings round the eomiee aie Augustus
contracting tiie port of Misenum $ Vespasian building
the Coliseum ; Coriolanus yidding to the tears of his
metber ; and Alexander restoring hts conquered kingdom
to Porus. Tlie supporttfs of the craling are formed of
dark-igreen marble.

The Saloon of Bellona forms the entrance into the
great .gallery, or may be said to constitute a part of it.
The ceiling ie the work of Le Bfun. Belknaa is in her
car, drawn by wild horses, which are tmmpltng under
feet men and arms. A warrior, in a menacing attitude,
gees before her ; Discotd follows with her flaming torch ;
and Charity, carrying an infant, flies in terror.

On a fictitious chimney-piece is an oval bas-relief
twelve feet in height, the workmanship of N. and G.
Coustou. It is encircled by a marble frame, and con-
tains an equestrian figure of Mars. In the deceptive
opening of the same chimney-piece is a second bat*
relief, modelled by DesjardtM, repiewnling a «em^
-seated, and in the act of writing, surrounded by Genii.

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VBJLBX1LLZ8. 489

It is to the joMly celebrated Le Brun that the Gieat
Gallery is indebted for its architectare ' and peintii^t.
Nothing IB Europe surpasses it, either in magnificence,
taste, or arrangement. It is 282 feet long, 30 in breadth,
and 87 in height, and is lighted by 17 great windows.
On the opposite side is a similar numl^ of arcades.
The intermediate spaces are filled with immense plate
glasses, reflecting the gardens, several pieces of water,
and the objects in the gallery. Between the arcades and
the windows are forty-eight marble pillars, the bases
and capitals of which, of the Composite order, are of

£lt bronze. The vaulted ceiling represents, in nine
rge and eighteen small paintings, under symbolical
figures and allegories, the most memorable epochs of
the reign of Louis XIV., from 1661 to 1678. These dif-
ferent pieces are distributed into several compartments,
embellished by the most beautiful architecture, and
supported by Mercuries of burnished bronze. The re«
spective Geniuses of the arts and sciences are occupied
in decorating the roof with flowers, while the cornice is
embellished with trophies, to which Cupids are hanging
wreaths of flowers. Two grand arcades, ornamented by
four columns and eight pilasters, adorn the entrance to
this sumptuous gallery. The pilasters are separated by
•alient pedestals supporting vases.

The gallery is terminated by the Saloon of Peace,
The cupola of this chamber, painted by Le Brun, re-
presenu the figure of France seated in a car on an azure
sphere, supported by a cloud, and crowned by Glory.
Peace and the Loves are employed in uniting turtle-
doves, around whose necks are medallions, symbolical
of the alliances formed under the reign of Louis XIV.
Pleasure and Joy, represented by two Bacchantes, play
on the castanets and the cymbal. Discord and Envy
are giving up the ghost, and Religion and Innocence
offer incense on an altar, at the foot of which Heresy,
with her masks and her books, is overthrown. Nume-
rous gilt bronze ornaments in relief add to the effect of
the whole.

The two adjoining chambers, which complete the
whole suite, are superbly decorated by gildings, mirrors.

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vaies^ colamnfl) and butts. lo the last is a fine jCoIlecUon
^twenty-two pictures, the compositions of Le Sueiu>
and other celebrated masters.

. The apartments of Louis XVI. were appropriated^
during the Revolution, to the reception of military in-
valids, and consequently were shamefully mutilated
and defaced; the traveller will therefore retrace bis
^leps, and descend into the gallery of the chapeU which
conducts to the Opera-house.

This building was commenced in 1753, after a plan
presented to Louis XV. by Gabriel; and was completed
in 1770, to celebrate the marriage of the unfortunate
Louis XVL The decorations were of the most sj^endid
description, but they suffered much during the Revolu*
tion, and have been greatly neglected.
. In the construction of the royal banqueting-room
Amoult may be said to have surpassed himself. This
chamber, equally appropriated for the dress balls of the
<a>urt, is eighty feet long, sixty-nine wide, and iifty-eigbt
high.

The chapel is a most superb monument of the munifi-
cence of Louis XIV. It is the last work of J. H. Man*
sard, and was begun in 1699, and finished in 17 10, two
years prior to his death. Its external decoration consists
of Corinthian pilasters, having a basement, and being
aimaounted by an attic story. In the spaces between
the columns, arcades present themselves, ornamented
with angels. These support a balustrade, on the pedi-
ments of which are stone statues nine feet in height, re*
presenting the apostles, the evangelists, the fathers of
t|ie church, and the theological virtues.

The interior, which is decorated with the same order,
is composed of freestone. Twelve flated pillars sustain
the dome ; between which are balustrades of gilded
bronze, supported by grey marble. The bas-reli& and
ornaments of the columns, and arcades of the nave, aie
of the most exquisite workmanship. The grand akar,
fbrmed of the choicest marble, is decorated with a Glory j
and at the sides appear angels in the act of adoration.
The whole of the bronze is heightened with or-molu.
In front is the gallery appropriated for i^the royal

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family, and the organ, which is beantifblly ecnip*-
tured.

The paintings of the arches are by three different mas-
ters J and the ceiling over the gallery was executed by
the famous Jean Jouvenet, who has represented the
Holy Ghost descending among the apostles. The centre
painting, which represents the Almighty Father, is from
the hand of Coypel; and the Resurrection, over the
grand altar-piece, is the work of Charles de la Fosse.
The other smaller ceiling*paintings were by the two
Bolognas. The chapel of the Virgin was ornamented by
them ; and to one of them is attributed the picture of
the Annunciation, over the altarrpiece, which is highly
esteemed. The chapel entirely escaped the ravages of
the Revolution.

Service is performed here every Sunday at half-past
eleven.

The gardens of this sumptuous palace are equal in
splendour to the fabric to which they belong. Innume-
rable statues, temples, ax:d pavilions, greet the view in
every direction ; while shrubberies, parterres, sheets of
water, and jets-d*eaux, diversify and complete the en-
chanting scenery.

The cascades and jets-d'eaux are the noblest which
Jfrance, or perhaps the world, afford. I would particu-
larly point out to the notice of the traveller the bath of
Latona. A group, composed of Latona and her two
children, is in the centre; and seventy-four enormous
frogs, representing the peasants of Libya, who were
changed into those animals by Jupiter at the prayer of
Latona, are covering them with torrents of water; the
obelisk of water, formed by the union of innumerable
jets 5 the water-walk, composed of a succession of cas-
csades and jets ; and the basin of Neptune, representing
the triumph of that deity, the effect of which is truly
-wiperb.

The most advantageous point of view is on the lawn,
opposite to the basin of Neptune, and a little on the right.
Every part of this noble fountain is there displayed ; and
behind is the grand jet of the Dragon, the elegant water-
valk^ with all its nmneroas and elegant groups, the

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498 YERSlILLBS.

i pyiBmid futiher behind, and an ang^Ie of tbe chliteaa

appearing between the dark woods« beautifully closing
the perspective. The jets play once a month on a Sun-
day during the summer, and on most of tbe principal
festivals.

The grand water-works, however, only play on the
first Sunday after the 25th August, in honour of the f^te
of St. Louis, and on one or two other occasions in the
7^^^ course of the year.

A' V The principal ornament of the gardens of Versailles,

/d ^0 ^®** ^^ ***® water-works, is the orangery, which was

planted in 1685, after the designs of Mansard, and

^ finished the ensuing year. It stands on the left of the

- i^^n> terrace beneath the flowery parterre.

^^, .., . The canal is 1600 yards long and 64 broad; two arms,

, . /> each of which is 512 yards long, join on one side Great

/ " Trianon, and on the other what was the menagerie.

Since the Restoration, a small pleasure-ground has
been formed at Versailles, on the model of one at Hart-
well, where Louis XVIII. resided during hit stay in
England. It is open every evening for two hoars, from
I May 1st to Oct. 1st.

Philip V. of Spain, Louis XV., Louis XVI., and
Louis XVIII., were bom in the Palace of Versailles.
I Independent of the palace, there are many other build-

ings at Versailles deserving the attention of the stranger;
namely, the Town House, formerly inhabited by the
Prince of Cond^ ; the College or Lyceum, containing a
I museum of natural history ; the building once occupied

I by the celebrated manufactory of arms ; and the three

Churches. Notre Dame, erected by Louis XIV., from
i designs by Mansart, contains several transparent paint-

ings ; and in the church of St. Louis is a monument to
the memory of the late Duke de Berry. The Public
Library, comprising 30,000 volumes, is open from 9 to 8.
i Amongst other curious books is one containing repre-

sentations of the f^te given to Mme. de la Valliere by
Louis XIV. Over the doors of the rooms are views of
the principal cities in the world.

At the entrance to Versailles, the visiter will find
guides ready to conduct him to the various objecu of
curiosity.

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VINinSKNES. 4M

Cilbrioletii tdt VemUlM sta^d at ihe Biie de Bivoli^
arid the quay of the Tuileries. The fere is about 14
franc. Diligences also set out from the same street.

Messrs. Bluck and Co. have a large establishmentrat
Versailles for the instruction of youth in the French and
fqreii^n languages. It is called the European Aca-
demic Institution^ and is situated at No. 52, Avenue d€
St. Cloud. The house was formerly an university, and
contains upwards of 100 rooms. . Pop. 28,000.

There are three annual fairs, commencii^ May 1,
Aug. 20, and Oct. 9th, and continuing five days.

VILETTE, LA, is a considerable village at the north
extremity of the Faubourg St. Martin. It abounds with
guinguettes, and the basin of La Villette or Canal de
I'Ourcq, forms a delightful promenade. Pop. 1700.

VINCENNES.— The village of Vincennes is a league
and a-half from Paris. It is of the ,remotest antiquity^
and was inhabited by many of the early kings and queens
of France. The palace, which was erected by Francis I.,
had the appearance, and possessed all the advantages
of a fortress ; particularly that part denominated the
Dungeon. In this fabric Charles V. expired; and here,
in 1422, the warlike Henry V. of England breathed his
last; nor is there a building more connected with curious
ancient historical incidents than the chateau now under
review. Of more recent date, may be seen the apart-
ments wherein was confined the Prince of Conde, in 161 7,
and forty years after, the great Cond^ his son., Cardinal
Mazarine also expired at Vincennes in 1661 ; nor should
the name of the celebrated Mirabeau be omitted, who
was imprisoned four years within the walls of this build-
ing; during which period he wrote the admirable letters
between Gabriel and Sophia, In the moat of this castle
the Duke d'Enghien was murdered, and in the chapel
is a monument to his memory, erected by order of
Louis XVIII. Mass is performed every Sunday morning
in this chapel, accompanied by music.

Vfncennes is still used as a state prison, and is also
the central depot of the artillery'and ammunition, so
that a considerable military force is constantly main"
tained here.
2U

Digitized by Google ^

484 TitST.

The annual f^te is on Augost 15th and following Son-
day, and Paris pours forth all its po]pulation to partake
of the amusements of the day. The lovers of archery
have then a grand trial of skill. There is a hall every
Sunday, and ^te in the Bois de Vincennes. Cabriolets
for Vincennes stand in the Place de la Bastille. Pop.
2160.

VITRY. — ^This pleasant village is two leagues from
Paris, on the road to Choisy. It contains numerous
country-seats, and is surrounded by extensive nuisedea.
Its annual f^ is on Whitsunday. Fop. 2000.

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GENERAL INDEX.

ABATT0XR8, 3U

Abbaye Royale[de St. Germain

234
Abbaye Royale de Port Royal, 253
AbWye du Val de Grace, 248
AbbeviUe, 44
Abbpy, Prison of the, 322
Abbey of St. Martin, 378
Abbey Roval of St. Germain des

Pt4s, 234
Academical Society of Sciences, 401
Academies, Private, 334
Academy, Royal, or Institute, 397
Academy of Mtasic, 424
Accouchement, Hospice de V, 333
Acrobates, Spectacle des, 43\
Admiralty, 208
Ajfricttltural Society, 401
Amines, 44.
Aire, 54
Alfort. 452

Allaitement, Hotpiee de \\ 333
AU^e des Veuves, 447
Ambassador's Office at Paris, 116
Amiens, 48

Amusements, Diary of, 157
Anatomy, Cabinet of, 384
Ancient Mimuments, Exhibition of,

436
Animals, Combats of, 438
Antiquaries, Society of, 401
Antiques. Gallery of, 374
Antiquities, 226
Antony, 452
Antwerp. 7*
Arch de TEtoile, 303
Arch of the Tuil^ries, 302
Archbishop's Palace. 200
Amhas, Triumphal, 3U1
Architecture. Cabinet of, 39 4
Archives of the Kingdom, 218
Arcueil, 46S
Ardr«t,64

8 X

Argenteuil, 453

Arms, Manufactory of, 411

Amouville, 453 /

Arras, 71

Arsenal, the, 217, 393

Arrival at Paris, 87. 115

Artillery, Museum of, 383

Arts, Athenaanm of. 393

Art« and Trades, Conservatory o

378
Asiatic Society, 402
Asnieres, 453

As«omption, Ejflise de 1', 242
Ateliers de Sculpture, 221
Athenaeum of Arts, 398

, Ladies', 400

of Paris, 399

Attornies, 316
Aubervilliers, 453
Auctioneers and Appraisers, 318
Angustines, Market of, 310
Auteuil, 454

Ba^telle, 454
Baggage, 8
Bagneux, 455
Bagnolet, 456
Bakehouse, General, 338
Balls, 441
Bank, the, 215
Bankers in Paris, 6
Barracks, 220
Barriers, 304

Barrier of I'Ktoile, or de NeuiUy,
305 ,^

Fontunebleau ou d'lta-

lie, 304

lette, 305

» St Martin, or de Vil-

Passy, 305

du TrAne, or de St. As-

-du

toine, or de VinceuMa, 309
Bastringnes, 451

>d by Google

498

GENERAL INDEX.

Bateleto, 416

Baths, S93

Bazar, 438

Beanjon, Hospital of. 331

Beaumont, 46

Beaavais, 45

Belleville, Jardin, 449

- Village of. 455

Bellevae, 456
Berci, 456
Bethune, 54
Bicdtre. 321, 457

, Hospital of, 33S

Bi^nre, the, 457

Blanche, Qneen, 8S7

Blancs Manteaux, March^ des.Sll

Blind, Institutions for the, ^,349

Boardin^honses, 98

Bois de Boologae* 497

Bolbec, 76

Bondi, 458

Bonneuil, 458

Books, 138

Bouchain, 85

Boulevards, the, 443

Boulogne,39

Bourbon, Palace of, 190

-, Palace of the Dtichess of.

I Cal)Tiolets, 413
I Caf^s, 99
•Calais, Arrival at, S3

-E Description of, 28

Inns of, 24

Calvaire, 459

Calves* Market, 313

Cambray, 85

Carmelite's Market, 318

Carriages, Duty on, 86

Catacombs, 260

Cattle Market, 813

Caveau Moderne, 403

Celtie Academr, 401

Cemetery of St. Catherine, 276

of Mont Louis, or Fkr«

la Chaise, 265

. Montmartre, 976

■ Mont Pamasse, 276

of Vaugirard, 276

Ce«tna Offioe of Adiiiii«ioo imt%

the Hospitals, 337
Qhailk>t, 460
Chaises, 413

Chamber of Deputies, \9Q
q£ Pe«r*. 181

206

-I,ihrarjoftlie,895

Bourg la Reine, 458
Breteuil, 50
Bridget 290

and Roads, SqI[V9oI qf, 346

Brie sur Mame, 458^

Brighton, 55

BriU,77

British College, ^1 '

Brussels, 80

Buc, 459

Burials, 134

Butchers, 315]

Butte St. Chaninont, 4Q9

Butter Market, 310

Cabinet of Ao^tomy, 384

Architecture, 38i

- Natural History, Oar-

den of Plants, 860

— — Physiolc

- the SclK

logy. 806
Cabriolet, I>ew»iptim of,^

,384
of Miner^r

Champ de Mats, 447
Champs Elvs^es, 449
Chantilly, 51 '
Chapelle Beaujon, 235

Expiatoire, 244

. , U Saipte. JHl

Chapels, EngUslk, 258
Character of (he Paviiiwu, 141
Charenton, 461
Charitalito Iaititad«»«. m
Charities, 133
C*Mirity«cko9l9.«W_^

, -.Hospital of, 330

Charonne, 4^1
Chateau d*£;»Q> 280
Chatillon, 461
Chaumiire, La, 449
Cheese Market, 310
Ghoisy,461
ghurohes, 228

•^ froteataat, 1B8

Church of the Carmelitta, M0

Foreini Miaai<nariet, ttf

La Madalaine, 248

^ the ViaitatiM, 913, 8M

Circular Exchange Notes, 2
Qireulatiiig Ubraxiesi 409

>d by Google

omiiiiii imnn.

City Libfftrt, 898'
QUrgf, 898
Clermont, 50
Clichy, 4€i

Q]Qth and Linen HaU, 807
Glothinjf, Price of, lU
Cfloud, St., 463
Coaches, li
Coches d'BaUt 410
Cochin, Hospital, 884
Coffee-houses, 99
Coins, 5

Coligny, Admiral dd* 227
Collection df Pointings i& Ra« dti
Lille, 383 ^

Collections of Pai&lings, 886
College of St. Barbe. 9H

Brilaaaiqae, 881

of Franc** 848

Law, 340

- Letters and the Sciences,

342

■ Theology, 339

Colleges, or LreetuAi, 350
Colombe, 466 '
Combats of Animals, 43B
Comie Optra, the, 428
Commerce of Paris, 130
Commissaries of the Police, 817
CoihmissiotiAaires, 417
Committee of Longitude, 400
Componinm, 437
Comte*s Exhibition, 437
Concerts, 442
Conciergerie, the, 319
Conservatory of Arts AtiA Ma-
chines, 378

-Mosic^SSS

Consumption.
ConyMts, 859

134

Conveyance, Modei of, 412
CorneiUe, 227
Com Market, 306
Cosroorama, 436
Cour Batave, S28
Courbevoie, 466
Cour de France, 466
Cours la Reine, 447
Court of AccomptR,316

Appeal, 3 1 5

^Assises, 1891

^^Caaation, 315

— — '^Municipal PoUee, 317

Otftirt Roytl, lie

Oriel, 51

Crystal MannfajSfeWy, 411

Cariosities of PAriS, Oaid^i ftt llie,

152
Cttston^Housfl thities, 80
Cyn rft., 480

David's .Gallery, 386

Deaf and Damb, Instiiution for the.

349
Delta, Jardin, 448
Denis, St.« 466
Departure from Paris. 115
Depdt dH Laines« 809
Depdt of the Models of fortifitd

Towns, 383
Diary of Amusemeate* 157
Dieppe, 56

Diligence, Description o^ 86
Diligences, 140,414
Diorama, 435
Dissecting Rooms, 323
Dover, Description of, 23

Directions on arriving'at, 83

Drawings, Schools of, 846 '
Drowned Petsofis^ 184
Duties, 139
Daty on CAnriagett &e*i 86

Efttin^ Aott^es, 104
Ecouen, 52
Egg Market, SlO
Elys^e Bourbon, PalAce of, 863
ElyitiftH Fields, 446
Enfans Malades, Jfospital df, 334
Enfans TrbU^^^s, Ho^tal of, 333
Enghein, 468
English Theatre, 433
Entifohd of Paris, 453
— ^— — — :?e8tival8 in the,
495

-Stages to tKe, 414

Epinay sut Seine* 4661

Essonne, 468

Establishment for Clarified Waters.

290

Nurses, 337

the Orphfiii

Daughters of the Lesdon of Ho-

Adttf,848

8X2

Digitized by Google

5eo

GENERAL INDEX.

Eutublisliment for Wounded Poor
396

EaropeRn Mnsenm, 385
ExchanRc. the, 211

^_ Notes, 2, 3

ExcheqnjCT, the, 190
Exhibitions on the Water, 442
Exhibition of Ancient Monaments

436
Exhibition of Paintings, 436

Faenlties, 339

Fallots,4l7 . ^„

Fencing Academies, 353

Festiv^, 164

Festivals in Environs, 496

Fiacres, 412

Field of Mars, the, 447

Fine Arts, Palace of the. 909

School of the, 346

Fires, 134

Fish Market, 310

Flixecoart, 47

Flower Marlset. 312

Fontabe d* Alexandre, 988

de Bacchus, 288

du Chatelet, 286

de la Croix de Trahoir,287

Dessaix. 289

^ du Diablo or^ TEckelle,

283

Vontaine de Tantale, 287

de la Rue de Vaugirsrd,

. de St Sulpice, 284
.desVieilles Andriettea,S88
St Victor, 288

. de TEcole do Medicine,

286 , ^

'— EnrT>tienna. 289

de FElephant 289

de I'Esplanade des Inva-

lides, 289 _

St Enstache. 287

Francois I., 287

. Crenelle, 285

- de .I'Hospice Militaire de

Gros CaiUon, 287

— des Innocens, 286

.. Fontaine de I^da, 284

de la Naiade, ^88

de la Nouvelle Athenes,

- de St Martin, 290

- de la Place de I'Ecole, 2»

- de la Place St.Michel, 284

- de Popinconrt, 288

- de la Rue Censier, 288

- de la Rue de Sevres, 289

234

Pontainebleau, 469 ^
^ontenay aux Rases, 469
I'ontenay sons Bois, 469
Porce, La, Pcison of, 318
Forges, 59

Foundling Hospital, 333j
Fountains. 131, 284
Franife, College of, 342
Francis I., 227
Franconville, 69
Francs, Table of, 6
Prench Theatre, the, 496
Fruit Market, 312
Funerals, 276

Gabrielle, 227

Oaillon, 66

Gallery of Antiques, 374
David's, 386
of the I-ouvre, 368

of the Luxembourg, 184

Gaming Houses, 144, 180, 439

Garde-Meuble, 208

Garden of the Luxembourg, 185

of Plants, 356

Gardens of the Tuileries, 1C7
Public, 443

Gate of St Denis, 301

Martin, 302

GentiUT.469 ^ ^^

Germain en-Laye,'St, 470
Gisors, 59
Glass Coaches, 114
Gobelins, Manuftwtory of, 407
lone:ise, 73 '
Goumay, 59
Granary, 308
'jrandvilliers, 45
Gratien, St., 471
Grrnelle, 471
Grasbois, 471
Guillotine, the, 282
Guinches, 451
Guinguettes, 451

Hackney Coaches, 4TS
HaUe>u^^.30^

>d by Google

onuistLAL iittfti±J

SO!

Halle artic Culrt, ^|

-aux Draps, et'auxToUes,

307.

— s- ati* Tins, 307

Havrt de Gfftce, 74

Hay Market, 314

Hftlv6etsltiys, 77

Henry IV., Assassirfation of, 226

■' Statue of, f91

History 6f Paris, 117
Horse Market, 313

gorse Races, 439
orses, 138
Hospices, 323
Hospitals, 323, 336
Hospitals, Office for Admission to.

Hotels, 87, 9«
Hotel, Meariee'l, 88

de Biron, 223

-— de Brunoy, 824
- ■■ ■ de Camavalet, 229

Clnny, 225

dd Oroy, S3S

Devaux, 222

Dieu, 328

■ des Invalides, 323
— — df the King's B(Jdy Gtiafd,

206

Lambert, 222

de Long^eville, 2SS

Petit Luxembourg, 881

■■ de Mademdiselle Onimard^

224

de Marigny, 22d

de Mars, 323

de Matifpion, 224

— ■ — de M^mes, 277

of the Minister fot VdriAgn

AtfaiU, 219

i— *de Mirabean, 225

de Moniiaies, 214

d'Osmond, 223

— — de la Rochefoucault, SStf
' Runski, 225

St, Ai^nan, 222

- - of the salamander, 3S7
— — de Salro, 201

de Sens, 226

Soubise, 218

Sully, 225

du Timbre, 220

d« ViUe, 210

Hdtd, Wa^Am, ^19
Houses of Paris, 125, 140
Humanity, Hospital of, 3dd

Idalie, 435 .

Incurable Women, Hospital ^or«3a5

Men, Hospital for, 385

Industry and Commerce of Paris,

136
Infirmary of Maria Theresa, 335
Innocents, Market of the, 30d
Inns, French, 26
Institute, Palace of the, 203

or Royal ^eaaemy, 397

Library of the, 395

Institution de r university, 355
Instittttiotfs for the B]tii»d,3l8, 3i9
Institntionsfor tiie Deaf ud Dumb,

31(9
Interpreters, 114
Invalids* Ho^ital fo^ dS3
Issy, 471

ItaUsa Operai 4S8
Ivry, 4?a

Jesuits, Church of thei* S39
JAWf* Syftagogves, 858
Jouy en Josas, 471
Justice, Conrtt 0f, did

Palace of, 187

of the Peaoe» 817

King's Gardciif 353

Ladies' Athenapum, 400
Larochefoucaud, Hospice de, 335
Lazare, St., Prison of, 317
Law, College of, 340
Leatlier Market, 308
Legion of Honour, Palace of, 201
Letters and Sciences.Colleg'e of, 3t2
Levels in Paris. 132 '
Libraries, Circalating, 403
Public, 38S

Library of the Arsenal, or of M<M*
sieur, 393
of the Bourbon Palace, 395

City, 393

of St. Genevifeve, 391

of the Institute, 395

of the Medical :Jchool, 396

**— Mazarine, 395

2X8

>d by Google

SOS

QSNBILAL IKDBK.

libmiT of tlie Maseum of NatoMl
History, 396 I

-Royal. 386

Lille, 70

Lillera,54 .

Literary Societies, 396

Lirry, 472

Lodgings, 97 .« , ^^.

Loagitode, Committee of, 409

Long Champ, Promenade <^, 457

Lotteries, 440

Loaviers, 66

LoBvre, the, 195, 367

LoQvres, 73

Lucionnes, 472

Luggage, 8

Latheran Church, S58

Luxembourg, Palace of the, 181

Petit. «l

: Oarden of the, 186

Lusarehes, S3

Lyceums or Couege^, 360

ilanuftictory of Painted Pap«»,

' 411

of Plate Glass, 408

of Porcelain, 409

— of P.

Tharaud,410 ^ ,,

___ — of M.

M. DilhetGaerard,410 .

'■ of La Saronnene, 403

: of Snuff, 410

- Turkish Velvet*. 410

Madelaine, Churdi of the, S48
Madelonettes, Prison of. 381
Magasineij, 404

Mail Coaches. 416 , ^ ^ ^
Maison d'Arrfit de la Garde Na

tionale, 323
Maison Batave, 98S

Callet, 284 ^^

, du Chaaoine Fulbert» 886

Colbert, 224

'. Dorlian, 284

St. Foix. 223

St. Germain, 293

Latbuile, 223

de Refuge, 321

de Sante, 331-

■ Soipion, 338

Maisoos Alfort, 473

— R^unies, Trois, 223i

Malines, 79
Malmaison, 473
Mand«.Ste.,473 . .
Manners of the Pariiianj, 141
Mantex, 67 ^_
Manufactories, 407 .
Manufactory of China, Husson s.

41U

of Crystals, 411

.. ► of Fire Arms, 411

Manufactures, 137 , ^^

Marie Thdr&e, Inarmary of. 336

Market of the Innocents, 309

Markets„306

Marly, 473

Marquise, 33

Mar§, Hotel de. 323 ^^

Maternity H6piUl de la,333

MauT, St., 474

Mazarine library, 39Si

Measures, 8

Meat Market, 313

Mechanical Theatre. 434

Mechlin, 79

Medals, Collection of, 815

Medical School, 340

Library of the, 393

Medical Society, 397
Melting Houses, 315
Menages, Hospice des, 335
Memn,70

Me&»ageries Royales. 414
Meudon, 474
Meulan. 67
Meurice's Hotel. 88
Military School, 343
Mineralogy, Kchool of. 346, 366
Mint* the, 214 , ^^ ^,^,

Missionaries. Church of th^245j
Models of Fortiiied Towns, 383
Molifere. 227
Money Changer*., 1
Mons,84 '

MontdePi«4,21<
Montaigu. Prison of, 322
Montmartre, Cemetery of, 276
Village of. 475

vlontmoreucy, 4/6
Montrenil, 43 ^

Mst Paris, 477

MonOwige, 477
Morgue. La, 8y7

>d by Google

OBKSRAL IKOti:.

MmtMkU&nB, 477
Mosaic School, 334
Mon^eanx, Garden of, 450
Mottfin Jeli, 477
Mountains, 440
Museum of Artillery, ^3

European, £83

of French Monument8,967

^ of Natural History, 356

1- Li

br«ry of, 396

- Royal, 195, 367

P^aMOftfaeDnehessof Bourbon,
206

d'Elys^e Bourbon, 203

of the Fine Arts, or of the

MuMC, Conwrvatory oC, 353

» Eoyal Academy of, 434

Nanterre, 477
Necker, HOpital, 330
Neuilly, Pont de, 477
News{)apers, 404
Nojcent sur Mame, 478
Noisy le Sec, 478
Normal School, 347
Notaries, 316

Notre Dame, G:ithedra1 of, 239
Notre Dame des Victoires, 351
Nurseru^Ground^ 450
Nurses, Establiidiment for, 33?

Observatory, 208
Odeon, Theatre, 427
Office for Hospitals. 337
Olympic Circus, the, 433
One-horse Chaises, 409
Opera, the, or Royal Academy of
Music, 424

Comic, 428

Italian, 429

Orateire, the, 258

Orleans.Dnc d'.Assastination of4226

Orly, 478

Orpbws' Hospital. 331

Osteud, 68

Ouen sur Seine, St., 478

Ourcq, Canal de 1% 459

Packets, 15

Painted, Papers, Manufactory of.

Paintings, Collections of, 384
Exhibition of, 436

Institute, 202

of Justice, 187

of the Legion of Honour, 201

of the Louvre, 195

of the Luxembourg, or

Chamber of Peers, 181
of the Little Luxembourg,

221

the Royal, 174

of the Temple, 206

of the Tuileries, 1^

7 of the Warm Baths, 2)7

Palais Royal, the, 174

Caf.J8of.l01,103,179

Palace of the Archbishop, 200 ^ .

of Bourbon aud Chamber of VendomCj 280

Deputies, 190 des Victoires, 279

Panorama, 436
Panst^rtorama, 437
Pantheon, 254
Panthemont, the, 258
Pantin, 479
Paris, Athensum of, 399

History of, 117

Present state of, 124

Papers and Magazines, 404

Statistics of, 130

Parisians, Character of, 141
Parvis Notre Dame, 283
Passage Boats, 416
Passages, 220
Passports, 9, 116
Passy, 479

Peace, Justices of the, 317
Pelagic, Prison of Sti, 320
P^re la Chaise, 265
Peronne, 71

Petit Pferes, Church of, 251
Physiology, Cabinet of, 384
Picquigny, 47
Pierrelitte, 479
Piti^, H6pital de la, 332
Place de la Bastille, 283

Beauveau, 283

du Chatelet, 283

Daupliine, 282

de Grive, 282

de Louis XV., 277

Notre Dame, 283

Royale, 278

>d by Google

«M«ftiiimtit.

Plan for Viewhlf !*a#ii ifl * W«AJ

152
Plate-Glass Manufactory, 468
Pledges, 133
Ples8y-Piquet,479
Poissy, 67, 480
P<»x,46 , . ^^,^
Police, ComtnlssAnes of, 31?

. Prefecture of, 318

Polytechnic Sdbcwl, 84*
Pont des Arts, 290

an Chanee, 293

St. Charle», 298

de 1» Cit^, on Pont Bmg^

296

auz Doubles, 29B

- Grammottt, 299

taire, 297 , „ .
du Jardin des PlUntefl dn Row

or d'Austeflite, 295
-^- Louis XVI., 293

Ma'ri6,a9& ^

St. Maxeno*, 79

St. Michel, 294

Wenf, 291 ^^

^ Notr» Dntoe, 294

Petit, 294

Royal, 999 _^

de la ToUnifelW, 2S6

PontoiAe,59 ^ V^
Population, 129, 182
Porcelain Manufactory, 409
Pork Market, 314 ^

Port Royal, Abbayc de, 2B8
Porters, 417
Post-Office, 139, 212
Posting, Prictf of, 31, M

— Laws of, 34

Potato Market, 314
Poultry Market, 310
Pres St. Gervais, 490, 480
Printing, 138 ,

Printing-Officfe, the Royal, ^18
Prisons, 318
Prirate Schools, 364
Promenades. 443
Prostitutes, 188
Protestant Churches, 256
ProTiiaons, Consumption off 18^
y Price of, 114

Public Schools, 839

PutcBux, 480

Quays, 297 ^

Queen's Course, the, AHJ
Quinze Vingts, Hospital Of, 349

Rag Fair, 319
Ramcy, ^0
RambouiUet, 480
Reading Rooms, 403
Record Office, ?18
Religious Edifices, 228
Restaurateurs, 104 . .

Review at the Tuderies, 174
Reviews, 443
Riding Schools, 353
Rincy, 480
Romainville, 481
Rosny, 481

Rotterdam, 77 ,

Rotunda, Temple, 290
Rouen, 61

Routes, 10, 19 ^^
Royal Academy, 397

Court, 316 ^ .

Garden of Plants, 35^

Library, 386

Museum,, 193

Palace. 174

Roy«,72
Ruelle, 481
Rungis, 481

St Barbe, CoUege oft 8M
St. Bennett, 258
St Cloud, 462
StCyr,466 •
StI]ienH466
Ste. EUzabeth. 252
St Esprit, Seminary of. 15t
St Etienne da Mont, 287
St Eusta^he, 948
St Fran^oie Xavier^ 94ft
d* Assise, 352

St Genevifeve, 254

Libtsry of, 804

St Germain I'Anxerrois, 236

enLaye,470

desPr4s,234

St Oermnn*e Market^ 319
St Oervai*,941
St Orataen, 471

>d by Google

. OBKXitXL INDEX.

505

St. Jacques da Haat Pas, 963

St. John's Market, 311

Sr. Joseph's Market, 311

St. Laurent, 244

St Lazare, Prison of, 321

St. Lea, 236

St. Louis, 235

St. Louis—St. Paul, 239

St. Ix>ui8, Hospital of, 330

St. Louis en r Isle, 239

Ste. Marjfuerite, 243

St. Martin's Market, 311

St.MedaTd,2.?7

St. Merry; 240

St Nicholas des Champs, 244

du Chardonnet, 252

St Omer, 54

St Ouen*snr-Seine, 478

St. Pelagic, Prison of, 320

St Philippe du IU>ule, 251

St. Pierre du Gros Caillou, 252

St Roch, 246

St Severin, 235

St Sulpice, 249

•^ Seminary of, 351

St Thomas d'Aquin, 245

Sainte Chapelle, 241

Sales in Paris, 138

Saltpetri^re, Hospital of, 329
Samer, 42

Savonnerie, Manufactory of La, 408

Sceaux, 481

School of Charters, 352

Commerce, 353

Bridges and Roads, 345

School (^ Drawing, 346

the Fine Arts, 345

■ Medicine and Sargery340

Mineralogy, 346

Military, 343

— Mosaic, 354 •

of Music, 353

Normal, 347

Royal Polytechnic, 344

for Teaching Young: Women

to Draw, 346

Veterinary, 347

S<-hool8, Charily, 353

Private, 354

Public, 339

Riding, 353

— — Swimming, 301

Scipion, Maison. 338 ^

Scotch College, 352

Sculpture Gallery, 412

Seine, the, 482

Seminaries 228, 351

Senlis, 72

Seraphin's Chinese Shadows, 437

S^ve, or S^vre, 482

Sheep Market 3 13

Shops of Paris, 127, 137

Skating, 442

Slaughter-Houses, 314

Snuff Manufactory, 410

Society des Bonnes Lettrea, 402

for the Encouragement of

National Industry, 401

of Medicine, 401

Sorbonne, the, 245
Soupers de Momus, 402
Spectacle des Acrobates, 434

of M. Comte, 437

Squares or Places, 277

Stage, the French, 418

Stages.to the Environ^, 414

Stamp-Office, 220

Stamps, Amount of, 139

Statistics of Paris, 130

Statuary's Work Rooms, 2211

Steins, 48S

Steam-Packets, IS

Stranger's Methodical Guide ; or

Plan for -Viewing Paris in a

Week, 152
Streets of Paris. 124, 129 j
Summer Vauxhall, 449
Surfene, 482
Surgical School, 310
Swimming S<Aool«, 301
Synagogues, 258

Table of Francs, 6
Taxes, 139

Temperature of Paris, 130
Temple, Palace of the, 206
Prisoner the. 319

Temple Rotunda, 220

Tennis Courts, 442

Theatres, 418

lli^tre de rAmbigu Comique, 430

du Cirque Olympique, 433

— -of the Comic Opera, of
Feydeao. 428

>d by Google

50S

ojna»AL iKsn.

Jh^itre. ED;fli«1i» 488

■ Forain du L«xemboai^« 434

Faviirt, or des Italienst 499

—— des Funatnbiiles, 484

Fran9ai(i« 426

of Gaiety, 431

-> Oymnase Dramatiqae* or

Th^&tre 4e Madame, 43i

Italian, or Opera Baifc, tfS

de la Porte St. MWlia* 430

• Mecaniqne, 434

Montaiirtre, 438

of the Opera, orAeademy

of Music, 4S4

■ ■ ' de rOdeon, 4«'

da Mont Pamilsse« 438

de Fhysiqtie Amutanl^ 434

da Rool^ or de Aan^Mli,

434

of Varieties, 481

VaaderiUe, 4i9

Theology, College of, 339

Thermes, Palais des* 907

Thoilleries. jSTm Taileriei.

Tivoli, 448

Torch-Bearers, 417

Tour de St. Jaeqaes-L*-Bea«hwie,

998
Tour de St. Jean de Latftn, S88
Town-hall, the, 810
Traiteors, 104

Transferable Exchange KoftNt 8
Travellers, Number ttf^ 141
Travelling in Frftaet, 30
Trianon, 488
Trianon, Petit, 483
Tribunal of the First Insta&oe, 816

Commerce, 817

Triumphal Arches, 901

Tulliries, Pklaee bf the« IW

Arch of the, 309

Gardens of thel67t

Turkish Garden, 449

Vtiyet,Maanfaetorydf, 410

University of Francfti 339

Val de Grace, 948
Valencienoes, 84
Valerien, Mont, 459
Valets de Place, 114
Vaugirard, 484
VauxhaU, Summeri 449
Vernon, 66
Versailles, 484

Veterinary School at Alfert* 34/
Viande, Mareh< 4e la* 818
Vietvs of Paris, 199
Villette, La, 40B
Vilvotde, 80

Vincennes, Wood of, 450
ViUage of. 493

VisiUtion, Church of, 953, 95S
Vitry. 484

Wardrobe, Rey^ 908

Water, Exhibitions on, 449

Water of Paris, 114, 131

Waterloo, 89

Wei^hle, 8

Widow's Walk, the, 447

Wine-HalU807

Wood of Vincennes, 451

Wool Warehoase, 809

Wounded Poor, fistftbliahtttat for.

Yvetot, 71

>d by Google

INDEX

THE PLAN OF PARIS.

^ ^irwre^, •» the le/t side of the Column,, refer ta l^L^.ti,:
iV^ ^ ^Hich C0U14 not le distinctly iTt'rJZJ'Jt^H^l

RUES.

Abbayc, de 1% e f

'^*^../'"' **'' *^ ?om1>oii

Villeikenve, fga
Acaciaa, des, d f
• Avaesseatf , d', d 8
1 Afgaiileritf, de 1% f4

Alpes, de», «£« BeaiHaloif, e 3

Amanditrs, des, j 4

'Amandieni, des, f5

Amboise, d%r3

.AmWoite, St., h 1 4

Amelot, h 4

Anastase, St., g 4
, Andr^, gt., 1 4
.f"i;^de.Artt,8t.,ff
51 Angiviller,d«, f4
llA=glade,delJe»

AnglaU, de«, M

Aiifl«ife«, d««, f T

AogonMme, d*, o •

Angonldme, d*. h t

AnloQ, d', d 1 1
Ai^o«,*,g4
Anne, Ste., e f
Aim^ Stt., f 4

Antin, d', e 3

Antoin^, St., gh4«

Apolline, Ste., g 3

Arbal^te, de 1', f Q

Arbre-Sec, del', f4

Arcade, de 1', e 9 3
8 Arche-Marioo, de T. f 4
4 Arcjie-Pepin, de 1% i\

Arcis, des, f 4
1 Arcole, d*, see BewioUdl. f f

Argenteuil, d', * 3 '^ *

Arrai, d*, g 3

Artois, d', f«
1 Arts, des, g 3

Assas d*, e 5

Astoff, d^da

Anbrv-le-Bonchtr, f 4
1 Andriettes, des, g 4

Aani9ire, g 3
i Aval, d*, h 4

Av«iglif,d«i,t«
» ATlgnon, d% #4
AToye, Ste., g 4

B.
<» Babtlle, r4
Babyl6Dc,de.di
Bac« dn« e 4 5

>d by Google

nvES.

BaTlleC, f 4

BaillenI, f 4

Baillif, r 3
% Bailly, g 3
% Bailctt, det, g 4

Banqnier, da, g 7

Barb«, Ste., f 3

Barbette, g 4

Barillerie, de la. f4

Barooill^re, de la, d 5

Barre-do-Bec, g4

Barres, des, g 4

Barrte, des, g 5

Baafrold, de, J 4 5

Basse Porte St. Denis, g 3

Basse St. Pierre, c 3

B tsse dn Rem part, e 3

Basse des Ursins, g 4 0
41 Basville, de, f4
. BaUilles, des, b 3 4

Batave, see Valois, e 4

Battoir, du, f5

Battoir, dn, g 0

Beanbonrg, g 4

Beance, de, g 4

Beaohai-nnis, de, h4

Beaajolais, de, g 3
1 Beanjolais, de, r3
1 Beaujolais, de, e 4

Beanne, de, e 4

Beauregard, f 3

Beanrepaire, f 3

Beaatreillis, de, h5

Beanrean, de, j 5

Belle-Gbasse, de, e 4

Bellefond, de, f2

Benolt, St., e 4 5
% Beoott, St., g 3

Bercy, de, g 4

Bercy, de, h J 5 G

Bergire, f 2

Bernard, St., J 5

Bemardins, des, g 5

Berry, de, g 4
19 Bertin-Poir^e, f 4

B^Uzy, f 4
1 Bearri^re, e 5

Bibliotbdqae, de la, f 4

Bienfaisance, de la, d 3

BWvre, de, fg5

ItUlettes, les^ g4

Biron, de, f T

2 Rissy, de, e 5
BUucbe, e 2
Blanche-de-Castiile, see St

Louis, z a
Blanchissensef, des, e 9
Blancs-Manteaax, des, c 4
Bleue, f 2
Bon. St., g 4
Bon-Puirs, da, g 5
Bonaparte, see Germain dm

Pr6s, e 4
Bon'}y, de, g 3
Bons-Hommes, dea, h4
Bons-Enfans, des, f 8
Bordet, see Descartes, f S
Bossnet, de, g 5
Boucher, f4
Boncherat, de, b 3 4 '
Boncherie des In v., de la, d S
Boncberies, des, f 5
Boncheries, des, e 3
. 2 Bondrcan, e 3

Bonlangcrs, des, g 5
Bonlets, des, j 5
Bouloy, dn, f 3
, Bonrbe, de la, f 6
Bonrbon, de, d e 4
S Bonrbou'le-Chatean, e 5
Boarbon-Vilienenre, f f S
Bonrdonnals, des, f 4
Bonrdonnaye, de ta, « S
Bonrgl'Abbe, g3
Bourgogne, de, d 4
Bonrgtibonrg, g4
Bonrguienons, des, f6
Boat-dn>Monde, da, jcv C»
- dran, f 3
1 Boatebrie, fS
Boyaoterie, de la« Ji S
Braqne, de, g 4
Bretagne, de, g4

3 Breteail, de, g 3
Bretonrilliers, de, % ff .

S Brise-Miche, g 4
Brod^rs des, d 5
Bacberie, de la, f 5
Boffanlt, de, f 2
Bnffon, de, g 6
Baissoa S. Loeis, do, h S B
Bassy, de, f 6
Battes, des, k59

>d by Google

Rims.

C.
Cadet, ft

Cadran, dn, f 3

.C*ftarclll, g 3

Caille, dela, e7

C«i*c, du, f g 3

Oalaudre, de la, f 4 5

Caiicttes, dc», e 5
1 Canivet, dn, c5

CapaciDS, dei, f 0

Cardinaltf, e4

Car^mc-Prienant, de, h S 3
3 Cargaisons, dcs, f 5

Garmcs, des, f5

Caron, g 4

Caronnel, du, e 4

Carpentier, c 5

Cassette, e 5

Cassioi, f 0

Castex, h 5

Castiglione, dc, c 3

Catherine, Ste., f 5

Canmartin, do, e 3

Cendrier, du, g 6

CeDhier, g6

Cerisaye, de In, h 5

Cerutti, see Artois, f 2

Chabannait, de, f 3

CbaiUot, de, c 3

Chaise, de la, e5

Champ de I'Alonette, da, f 7

Champs, des, b 3

Champs Elys^, des, d 3

Chanoiiiesse, g 5

Chantereine, efS

Chatntrc, du, f 4 ^

Chantres, des, e 5

Chanverrerie, de la, 14

Chapelle, de la, g 1 )s.

Chapon, g4

Charbonniers, des, h 6 0

Charbouniers, des, f 6

Charcnton, de, h j 5 6
1 CharH^, de la, g '2

Chariot, g h 3

Charonne, de, h j k 4 5
ff Charti^re, f 5

Chartres, de, c 4

Chartrcs, de, c 2

Ch&tean-Landoa, dit, g h 1
6 Chat-qni-pdche, du, fS

Chtnchat^ f 2

Chandrois du, b 1
Chaiime, da, g4
Chauas^e d'Antin. de la, e 2
Chanssee des Minimes, de U«

h4
Chemin de Lagny, du, k 5
Cheinin de Pantin, du, h 1
1' Clieiiiiii du Rcmpart, du, e 3
Chemin-vert, du, h 4
Cb«min dc la Voirie, du, g 1
Chercbe-midi, du, e 5

7 Chevalicr-ilii-Ciuet, dn, f 4

8 Chevet St. Landry, du, f 4
Chevert, dc, c d 4
Chevrcuse, d» e 6

7 Chieos, des, #« ^ean-Hubert*
f5

4 Childebert, e 5
0 Chilpt'ric, f4 .

ChoisenI, dc, e"3

7 Cholets, des, fH,
Chopinettc, de la, h 2
Christine, f 4

0 Christophe, St., f5
Cygne, du, f 4
Cimeti^ie Sl Andre, dn, f 5

8 Cimetidre St. BenoU, dn, f 5
Cimcti^re St. Nicolas, dn, g3

13 Cinq-Diamauts, des, f 4
Cisalpine, see Valois, d %

5 Ciseatix, des, e 5
3 Claude, S*., g 3

Claude, St., h 4

Clef, de la, g 6

Clery, de, f g 3

Clichy, de, e 2

Cloche-Perche, g 4

Cloitre Notre-Dame, da, g 3

10 CloUrc St. BenoU, du. f 6

5 Cloltre St. Mederic, du, g4

Clopin, fgS
3 Clos-Georgeot, dn, e 3
42 Clotildc, f5

CFovis, (S

11 Cluny, de, f5

12 Coci^trix, f 5
Coeur-Volant, dn, f 5
Colbert, de, f 3

0 Colombe, de la, g 4

Colombicr, dn, e 4

Colonnei, des, f 3

Colysee, dn, c d 3

■ S

>d by Google

WG9B

timnite, d« la, e i.

1 Commerce, da, c 3
Cemteste d'Artoit, f 8
Cond^, de, f6

10 Contrat-Social, da, f 3
Contresearpe, f 5
Contrescarpe, f 6
Contrescarpe, de U, h 5
Convention, de U, He Daa-

phine, e 3
fCopeaa, g 6
Coq. dn, f 4
Coq. da, ^4
Coq h^ron, f 3
Coqaenard, ft
Coqailles, des, g 4
Coquilliire, f 3

Cordeliers, d«s, tu Ecol64«>
M^decine^fS
4 Corderie, de la, e 3

Corderie, d« la, g 3 .
'' Cordiers, dct, f 5

11 Cordonnerie, de la, f 4

14 Comeille, f 6
Cornes, des, g 0
Cossonneric, de la, f 4
Cotte, de, j S
Courcelles, de, d 2
Conrroierie, de la, g 4

12 Coartnlon, f 4

8 Coatellerie, de la, g 4
Couture 3t. Genrato, dt/t, g 4
Conrty, de, d 4

15 Cr^billon, de, f5
Croissant, da, f t
Crois, de la, g S
Croix, Ste., f 4 •
Croiz-Blanche, de la, g 4

% Croix Boissiere, de la, b 8
Croix de la Bretonnerle, Sie.,

g4
roix d

Croix des Petits Champs, f 8 4
Croulebarbe, de, fgf
Crussol, de, h 3 '
Caltare Ste. Catherine, g 4

S Daraiette, de, f3
Dauphin, du, e 3
Banphine, f 4
a4 p^chargenrs, dee, /4
18 D^^, des, g 8

\9 Demi-Saint,~da, t4
Denis, St., fgSS
Denis, St., j k ^

. 1 DerviJl^, f 7
Desaix, b 5
Descartes, f ff
Deax Anges, des, e 4
Deux Bonles, des, f 4
Deax.Bcns, des, f 4
Deux-Eglises, des, f 0

12 Deux-Hermites, des, f 8
Devx-Ponts, dM, g 5
Deux-Portea, des, f 3
Deux-Portes. des, f 8'
Denx-Portes, des, g 4
Dominique, St., f 5
Dominique, St., d e 4
Dominiqae, St., c 4
Dor^e, h 4

Donze-Portes, des, h 4
Doyenn^, du, e 4 ,
Dragon, dn, e 5
Duguay-Trooin, e 8
Duphot, c 3-
Dnpleix, b c 5
Dnpont, c 8
Dupnis, g3
Doras, de, d 3
Domstein, de, see
e8

1 Echarpe, de P, h 4
14 Echande, de T, g 4

Ecband^, de 1% e 5

Echelle; de 1% e 8

Echiqnier, del', fg8

Ecole-de-M^edne, da f, fS <

Ecosse, d', f 5

Ecouffes, dct, g 4
18 Ecrivains, des, f 4

Eglise, de P, 'e 4

Egont, de r e 8

Egont, de r g 4

Elisabeth, Ste., g 8
16 Eloy. St., f 4

EniansRoogee, des, g 4
. Enfer, d', ef 6 87

Ekghien, d', g 8

Epe»<ie Bois, de 1', g 8

Eperon,delVf8

>d by Google

MM.

6 'BrfaH,^,tU

flBiai, del'> gO

Eit, de !', f 6

Etienne, f 4

Btienne-des-Gr^, St, f I
9 EtoUe, de 1% g 9
16 £vScb4,del% ff

Ev^ne, 1% c 3

Fanbonrt St. Antoine, dn, h J
k 5

Ftnbonrg St. Denis, dn, g 1 23

Faaboarg St. Honor^, do^ d 3

Fattboarg 6t. Jacques, du, f 07

FaaboargSt.MartIn,dii,g hi 2 3

Fanboarg Montmartre, dn, f 2

Fanboorg Poissonni^e, da, f
123

Fanboarg dn Ronle, dn, <; 2

Faubourg dn Temple, da, h 9

Fanconnier, dn, g5

Favart, f 3
4 Pemtue^ftanMStt, de la, g 5

Per, an, see Mar. deslnnocenta,
f4

Per4pMoalin, da, gO

Perdlband, h 3

Ferme det BfatlMrifls, de Ia,e3

F^run, e 5

Ferronnerie, f 4
9 PenUlade, de la, f 3
^ Fives, aux, f 4

Feydean, f 3

Fiacre, St, f 3

Fidilit^, de la, g>

ngnier, da, e S
4 Ftlles-Dieu, des, g 3
, Rlles-dn-CalTalrc, des, h 4

Fllles St Thomas, des, f 3
* Fleams, de, e S

Florentin, St., e 3

Foin, dn, h 4
' roin, dn, f 5

FoUe-M^icuort, de la, ^ 3

Folie-Regnault, de la, j 4

Fontaine, h 3
■ Fontaine, de la, g 0

Fontaines, des, g 8

Fores, de, g 3
4 Forget, dw, f 8

Fofi^ di Teitt^e, M, li 3
Posses Hontmartrt!, ^e«, t B
Pos0«« St Bernard, d6S. g 5
Fosses St. Oermain TAitxer

rois, des.f 4
Posses St Oermain diii Pr^

des, f 5
Poss^ St. /acqnes, des, f 5 '
Fosses St Marcel, des, g 0 7
Fosses St. Martin, des, g 1
Foss^ St. Victor, dei, g i
Foaarre, dn, 1 5
Poor, da, e 5
Poar, du, f 4
Pour, da, t 5
Poarcy, de, g 4
Pourcy, de, f 6,'
28 Pourreurs, des,' f 4
Poarneanx, des, d 0
Poy, St., g 3
5 Fran^aise, t 3
Francs-Bonrgeois, des, g 4
Prancs-Bonrgeois, des, g 6

17 Francs-Bonrgeois, des, f 9
Prejas, see Monsieor, d 5
Preplllon, g 3

0 Prilense, g 4
Froidmantead, 1 4

52 Promageric, de la, f 4

18 Promentel, f 5

1 Frondenrs, des, e 3

2 Purstemberg, de, e 4
56 Foseanx, des, f 4

Gaillon de, e 3
Galande, 1 5
Garancidre, e 5
Ga/t^, b 3

Generidve, Ste., c 8 '
Geoffroy TAngevin, g 4
G^oSroy I'Asnler, g 4
Georges, St., f 2
G^rard-Boqnet, g 5
' Germain I'Aoxerrois, Sty f 4
Germain des Pr^ St, • 4 ■
Gervais, St, g 4
30 Gervais-Lanrent, f 4
Gindre, dn, e -5
i Git-le-Coenr, f 5
' GUcidre, dela, f4
SI QltOffiy, de, tr/
b9

>d by Google

BOSS.

OcbtlioB, de§, g 7

Goardes des, e 3

Gracieaie, g 0

Grammonty de, f 3

Gnind-ChanUer, dn, g 4

Grand-Prienre, da, h 3
1 Grande Rue de la Trinit^, g 3

Grandt-Augottins, det, f 5
1 Grands-Degr^, des, g 5
18 Grande Fripeiie, de Ta, f 4

Grand-Hurlear, da, g 3

Grande-Traanderie, de la, f 4

Grande Roe Verte, d 2

Orange-aox-Beiles, g 3

Grange-Bateli^re, f 2

Gra^illieri, des, g 3

Grenelle, de, d e 4 5

Grenelle, de, c 4

Grenelle, de, f 4
. Grenetat, g 3

Grenier-Ht. Lazare, g 4
t Grenier-sor-reau, g 4

Gr^, des, f. 5

Gr^sillons, dot, d X

Gretry, f 3

Gril, da, g 6

Gros-Cbenet, da, f 3

Ga^negaud, f 4

Gnerin-Boisseaa, g 3

Guillaume, g 5

Guiliaome, St., e 4
11 GuiUelraites, dc«, g I

Gaisarde, e 5
9 Giuiuboarg, de, see Cardln. e 4

Hanovre, d% e 3
Harlay, de, h 4
Harlay, de, f 4
Harpe, dc ia, f 5
M Haut-Mouliii, do, f 4
Uaut-Moulin, du, h 3

51 Haute det Ursins, f 4 <
Haotcfeuille, f 5 .
Hauteviltc, d', g %
Hazard, du, e 3

52 H^aomeric, de la, f 4
Heldcr, da, e 2 5
HelWiitis, see Sie. Anue, e %

I Henry Premier, g 3
10 Uilaire, St., f3
Blllariii.^«rti0, d f

HIrondelle, de , ti
IS Homme-Arm^, de P, g 4

Honore, St., c f 34

Honore-Crevalier, e 5

H6pital, St. Locis, de \\ h S

Honssaye, de, e 2

Hucheite, de la, f 5
2 Hngaeii, St., g 3
5 Hyacinthe, St., e 3

Hyaclntbc, St., f 5
38 Hyacinthe, g 4

Hypome, St., f 7

Iinp^riale, see Caroasel« € 4
Irlandais, det, f 6
_ Ivry,d',g7

SO Jadnte, f 5

Jacob, e 4

Jacques, St., f 5

Jacques de la Boocherie, St.
f 4
25 Jacaues de I'HApital, St., f 9

Jardia du Roi, do, g 6

Jardinet, da, f 5

Jardins, des, g ff

Jarente, de, g 4

Jean, St., c4
1 Jean-Baptistc, St., d 2

Jeao-Bart, e 5

Je%n-Beausire, h 4 9
18 Jean-de-Bcance, f 4

Jean^de'Seanvais, St., f 5

Jean-de-r£pine, g 4
18 Jean-de-Latran, St., f. Q
7 JeanHttbcrt, f ft

Jean-Jacques-RooMeaa, f 3

Jean-Lantier, 1 4

Jean-Pain-moUet, g 4

Jean-Robert, e 3

Jcan-St. Deojui. se9 Plvrt
Lescot,f4

]ean-TUon,f4
84 Jer6iiie, St., f 4
40 J^msalem, de, f 4

Jennenrs, des, f 9
•4 Joamcrie,dc)a,f4

Joqoelet) f 9

>d by Google '

noss.

Jioubert, e «
Joar da, f 3
Joay, de. g 4
Judas, f •
Juifa, des, g 4
Jaiverte, de la, 1 4
1 Jales, St. J 5
Jnlien-le-Pauvre, St., f 6t
Jiusienni, ddla, f 3

¥.

Kliber, \> 4

1 Laiterie, do la, g 3

huxery, de, g 8
6 Landry, St., f 4
67 Lanterne, de la, f 4
87 Laaterne, de la, { 4

Lappe, de,h6
43 Lard, an, f 4
Lanrent, St* c 2
Laval, f 3

Larandidres^ defl, f 4
49 LavitDdiert, des, f 5
8 Lasare, St., g 3
Lasare^ S(., efX
Leelere, e 7
/ Leooir, j S
8 Lenoir, g 3
43 Lenoir, f 4
Lepelletier, f 2
Lea dignMres, de, h f

13 Levrette, de la, g 4
Lioorne, dela, f45 ■
Ulle, de, see Bourboit, d e 4

14 Limace, de ]a, f -1

14 IJmo^cs, (le, ^ 4
43 Lingeiie, de la, f 4

Liotis, des, g 5
Lombfirds, di^'S, f4
Lon^-Champs, de, b 8

15 I^ntj-Pont, de, g 4
LorUloii, de, h 2
Lonis, St., h4
Lo'iis, St., gff * '
Loai«, St., e 3
Loais-le-Grand, e 3
LoQYOU, de, f 3

Labeck, de, b 8 4
6 Lully, de, f 3
Lnne, de la, f 8
Lycee, du, see l^aloiM, f 3
Lyonnais, dei, f e .

M.
Mably, de, see EogUen, g 3
Macon, f 5
Maconi, des, f 5
Madame, de, e 5
Madeleine, de la, d e 2 S
23 Maglpire, St.j 1 4

Sail, do, f 3
aison-Nenve, d i

Maltc, de, h 3

M alte, de, see Chartres, % 4

Mandar, f 3

Mantoue, de, std Chartret, e 3

Marah, des, e 4

Mnrais, des, g 3

Marc, St., f 3

Marcean, see Rohan, e 4
3 M;ircet, St., g 6

Marche, de I.i, g 4,'j

Marche, du, d 3

Marclie unx Chevaux, du, g 6
03 Martlie aux Poirecs, du, t 4

Marche des Jacobins, <lu, e 3

March(--Neiif, du, f 3
9 Maich^ PhUi, du, f 5
2 MaicljeSt. Martin, da, gS

2 Marcou, St., g 3
Marguerite, Ste., e 5
Marguerite, Ste., j 5
Marie, Ste., e 4
Miirie, Ste,, b 3
Marie-Stuart, f 3
Marivaux, de, f 3

24 ^h■,\^..■-.. <],., f4

M:>,, ., .., ties, f 4

Marmouzets, des, f 7j

Martel, g 2
4 Marthe, Ste., e5*

Martin. St., g 3 4
30 Martrois, da, g 4

Martyrs, des, f 2

Masseran, de, d 8

3 Massillon, g 5
Matburins, des, 1 9
Matlyiloo, de, d 8

>d by Google

mvBS.

VaaconseUyf 9)
Hwar, St.f e 5
Manr, St., hj S3

5 Maar, St., g 3
Maure, da, g 4
Maavais-Garvuns, def , f 5
Mauv«U»-6ar(oiia, det, g 4
Maavaises-Paroka, det, f 4
Mazarine, f 4

15 Masure, de la, g 5

I'M^cauiquet , des, g 3

* Mechain, f7
Bf enara, de, f 3
Menetriera, des, g 4
MenilmontaDt, de, h J 3 '

6 Mercier, f 4

, Merry, St., see Nve. St. M6*
dtrric, g 4

Meslayt de, g 3

Messageries, des, f g 2
1 Metiers, des, g 3

M^i^res, de, e 5

M|<Aodi^, de la, e 3
S Michel, St., d 2

Michel-le-Comte, g 4

Mignon, f 5 - ' •

liiian, de, c 3
9 MiUen det Ursins, g 4

Miulmes, des, h 4

Mirom^nil, de, d 2

Moiueanx, des, e 3

Molay, g 3 '"
SlMolMre,de,f5

Moaeean, St. Gervais da, g4

Mood^tonr, de, f 8 4

Mondavi, de, e 8

Monnaie, de .a, f 4

Monsieur, de, d 5

Monsienr4e-Prince, f S

Montaigne, de, d 3

Montague, St. Genevieve, de
la, f5

MoDt-Blane, do, see Chaosi^
4'Antin, « 2

Montesqnieu, de, f 4

Montgallet, J 6

Monthoion, du, f 2

Montmartre, f 3

Montmorency, dt^ g 4

Montorgaeil, f S

Mont^Parnasse, da, e tf

ttMitpntaier,iU,Ct<
MontrenU, de,fkff'
MoBt-TUbor, da, 1 3
Morcan, h 5
Mortellerle, de la, g4 51
Morts, des, h 2
Monceanx, de, c 2
Mouffetard, f g 6 7
Monlins, des, k •
Moniitis, des, e 3
Moassy, de, g 4 ^

10 MoQton, du, g 4
Maette,dela,j4

19 Malets, des, e 3
Morier, du, f 5

N.
Napol^<», see Paix,e 3

to Navareth, de, f 4

7 Neckcr, g 4

7 NeuT^ St. Anastase, g 5
Nc«ye, St. Angnstin, e f 3
Neuve de Babyl^ne, c d 5 ^
Kenve de Belle-Chasse, d 4
Kenve de Berry, c 2
Kenve des Bons-EnCuM, f 9
Keuve de Bretagae, h 4.
Keave des Capadncs, e 3
Neove Stc. Catherine, g 4
KeoTe de la Cerisaye, h 5
Keuve des Petits-CbaiBp8,e f S
Kctive da Colotaibier, g 4
Neuve Ste. Croix, e 2
Neave, St. Denis, g 3
Neuve St. Etienne, f 3
Nenve St. Etienne, g 6
Neave St. Eusticbe, f 3

• Neuve St. Frau^ola, g 4
Neuvtf Ste. Gwievi^ve, : a
Neuve St.Gilles,b4
Neuve GniltemiB, e t-
Neuve St. Jean, g 2 3
Neave St. Laurent, g 9
Nenve de Luxemboorg^ e 9
Nenve St. Marc, f 3
Neuve St. Martin, g 3
Neave des Mathurku, e 9
Nenve St.M^dard,g«
Nenve St. M^deric, ^ 4
Nenve de Menilmontaat, h 4
NeayeSt. NkvlasygS

,y Google

fiVRS

9 ntAY€ NotMi^DaM^ r S

NMve d*0rWan8| c Z

lfeov« St. Paul, g 5
• Neave dct Petit»-Fdres, 1

Neavc St. Pierre, h 4

Neuve Plumet, d 5
41 Neuve dei P«ir^8, f ff
44 Neuve de Richelieu, f S

Ntove St. Roch, e 3

Nenve S. Sauveur, f 3

Nevcrs, de, f 5
3 Nicaise, St., e 4

Nicolas, St., e 2

Nicolas, St., h 5

Nicolas du ObardoBnet, St-,
f 5

Nicolet, d 4

Nonaindi^res, des, g 6

Normaudie, de, h 3 4
7 Notre-Dame de Bonne-No*
velte, f 3

Notre^ame de Nazareth, g 3
6 Notre-Dame de Recoaviance,
f S

Notre-Pame des Chanyps, e 5 6

Notre.J)ame des Yictoires, f 3

iNoyers, des, f 5

« Oblin, f 4

82 Observance, de P, f 3
Od^n,del%fS

13 Ogniard, g 4

32 0rseaax, des, f4
OUvet, d', d 5
Orangerie, de I', g 6
Oratoire, de 1', c S
Oratoire, de V, f 4

03 Orf^vres, fles, f 4
Orleans d*, f 4
Orleans, d', g 4
Orleans, d*, g 6
;i)rmeanx, dM, k 5
7 OrmestoB, d', g 4
Ortiesi det, e 3
OseUle, de 1', h 4
Ooest, de r, « 3 <t ,
Oars, aux, g 3 4
Oortine, d«l^f07

Pagevhi, f 3

PaHlassons, def, c d •

Paix, de la, e 3
7 Palatine, e 5
29 Paon, du, f 3

Paon, du, g 5
13 Paon-Blanc, da, g 5

Papillon, f 2
' Paradis, de, g 4

Paradis, de, g 2

Pare Royal, du, g 4

Parcheminerie, de la, f i

Pas-de-la-Muie^ da, h 4

Pastourelle, g 4

Paul, St., g S

Pavee, f 5

Pavee, g 4

Pavee, f 3
2 Paxent, St., g 3

Payenne, g 4
83 PeieriHs St. Jacques, dM, f 3

Pelican, du, f 4

PeUeterie, de la, f 4

Pepini^re, de la, d 2

Percee, f 5

Percee, g 4

Perche, du, g 4

Per<hie, f 5

Peres, 4os Ste., e 4 S
2 Perignevx, de, h 4

Perle, de la, g 4
13 Pernelle, g 4 .,
2 Perpi^nan, de, f 4 3
44 Perrin-GasteUn, f 4

Petit Bomrbon, dn, eS

Petk Carrean, da, f 8

Petit Chainp,du,f7
13 Petit Crucifix, du, f 4

Petit GentiUy, da, g7

PeUt Hurlenr, 4a, g 3

Petit Lion, da, f 3

Petit Lioi>, dn, f 3 '

Petit Moine, du, g 8

Petit Muse, dn, h 3
d2 P«tH Pont, da, f 3
10 Petit Reposoir, da, f 3

Petit Thouars, dn, g 3

Petit Yaogirard, do, d 3

Petite Rue des Acaclaa^ d 5

Petite Rue da Bac, e 3

,^«atr R«t de B«DqalM> g T
B 9

>d by Google

wta

1 PMlet Rm ie Chtrtri, c 4
U Pdke FripcHe, tf e la, f 4
PedM lUe NeoTt St. GUlcf
h4
M Pcdtc R«e de MftriTOTS, #4
PcUte Roe St. Pierre, h 4
: Petit Roe d« Revlily, j 6
Petit Roe Taranne, e 6
45 Petite Trnanderie, de la^ f 4
Petite Rue Yerte,dt
S Petite Voirie, de la, d 2
S Petite R«« de la Yriltiere, f 3

l^«tita Anpmkas, d«», e 4
, Fffttts-CbaiApi, dea, g 4
Petitet-Eenries, dei^ g S
Phelipaox, g 3
11 Philippe, St., f 3
t Philippe, St., 1 3
Piepns, de, kSd
84 Pied de BttnT, da, f 4
se Pierre dcs Arcia, 8t.»f 4
Pierre, St., f »
Pierre, St., h 4
15 Pierre^-PoiiaoMy f 4
3 Pierre-AiiiffCO

Pierre«iihLari, g 4
IS Pierrc-awc-B<»tilli, 8t,{S

Pierre4'E^cOC, f 4
S Pierre-Lombard, g 0
Pierre^Sarravhi, f 5
Pigale, e *
47 Pilliers dea Pofiertf ^Btaiii,
deB, f 4
Pinon, f 2
47 Pironet(c» 1 4

Plioe Yendtao^, de li, see

LonifrJe-Graiid, a 3
Placide, Ste.. • $
Pljte«he, de ta, « 9
20 Planche-Mlbrair, de la. f 4

Pianchefte, dela, h 5
14 Platd'Etalii,dti,f4
Piatre, du, f 5
Piatre, dn, g 4
Plomet, d §
13 Plamcts, de«, g4

Pechet, see Brodtnra, d 9
41 Poir«ea,dei,f 5
Foiriar, d*, f 4
P»lMomii^re,f3i
P^asy, de. a f

PoMcra, de, « 4

Poitoaide,g4

P«ll¥«aa,de, g44

Poilnpe,de la, e4

jPonceao, da, g 3

Pent-aax-BicbM, do, g 4
5 Pont-atnc Biches, do, t 3

Poot-anx-Chonx, (te, ft 4

PontdeLodi, da,f4

Ponthieu, de, c 2

Pontoise, de, g 5

Popincoert, de, b 4

Port-Mahon, da, • 3

P*rie-Foin, g 3

Pofttet, des, f 6

Pot.de-Fer, da, e B

Pot-de-Fer, f 6

Poterie^ de la, g 4

Pcrterie, dela, f4

Fonltier, g 5

Poales, dea, f 4
. Fonlies, das, f 4

Poup^, f 5
17 Fourtoar, dti, g 4
, Pr^hetirft, dei, f 4

Pr^trelW^ I «
34 Prfeues, del, f 5

Fr^tres, des, f 4
' Prfitres, des, g 5
25 Prfetrcs, dc>, f 5

Princesse, e 5

PrOjetee,,d e 2

Proavairea, de«, f 4

Provence, de,ef2

Paits, da, g 4

Puits-de-l'Hermite, dii| t 4

Poit^qai-parle, da, f 4

Qoatre-Fils, des, g4
Qaatre-Vents, de», 1 9 *
55 QaenoBillea, d«s, f 4

Qaiberon, de, sH tl<niipe»

sicr, f a
Qaimcampoixi g 4
4 Qoinxe-tngts, dct, e 4

Radne, f 5

>d by Google

BUJM

lUmboaniet,de,j

JUmeau, f 3

Ests, des, f 5

'Ants, des, j 4

A^le, de la, f 4

lUcolleU, des, g 2

Regard, do, e 5
91 lUguard, f 5
17 Regnanlt-Lef^vre, g 4

Regrali^re, g 5

Reine-Blaucbe, de la, g 0 7
0 Rempart, du, e 3

Renardy du, g 4

Renar4) do, f 3

Reiiilly, de, j k 5 «
7 Rheimf, de, f 5
> Ribont^, f 2

^Richelien, de, e f 3

Richepanse» c 3

Richer, f 2

Rivoli, de, e 3

Roch, St., f 3

Rochechoaard, de la. fl 2

Rochefoucault, de la, e 2

Rocher, da, d 2

Rohan, de, e 4

Roide-SicUe, da, g4

Romain, St., d 5

Roqnepine, d 2

Roquette, 4le la, h j 4 5

Rotters, des, g 4

Roaiert, des, see St. GoU'
laume, e 4

Uonle, du,f4

Ronsselet, d 5

Roosaelet, d 3

Royale, h 4 ft

Royalc, d e 3
9 Royale, g 3

S.
Sabin, St.,h4
Sabot, do, e 5
SidntoDge, de, h 8 4
IS 8alte-ao.Comt«, g 4
Sanson, g 3
Sante, de la, f 7
e Sartlne, de, f 4
Saassayes, dea, d 8
Sanvenr, SL, f 3
SsTonnerte, de 1«, f 4

Stroye, Ae, t S
Scipion, de, g 8
Sebastien, St., h 4
Seine, de, f 4 ft
Seine, de, g ft 0
- Sentier, da,f3 ^
Serpente, f ft
Sept^oies, des, f ft
Servandoni, e ft
Severin, St., f ft
Sevres, de, deft

33 Simou-Finet, g 4'.
Simon-le-Franc, g 4
Singes, des, g 4
Soly, f 3

25 Sonnerie, de la, i 4
Sorbonne, de, f ft
SouflBot, f ft
Sonrdidre, de la, e t '
4 Spire, St. g 3
Solly, de, h ft
Sorenne, de, d S

WTabletterie, deU, f4

Tacherie, de la, g4 '
8 TaUlepain, g4
. TaStboot, e 2 3

Tannerie,dela, fg4

Taranne, e ft
20 Tdntoriers, des, f 4

reinple, do, g 3 4

Tcrres-fortes, det, h ft
7 Th^r^, e 3

Thevenot, f g 3

Thibantod^, t 4

ThionviUe, de, ^^Daophiiw
f 4

Thiroox, e 2

Thomas, St., f ft ,
4 Thomas d'Aqoin, St, e 4

Thoma* da Loovre, St., • 4

Thorigny, de, g 4

Tiqoetonne, f 3

Tirechappe, f 4

TIron, g 4

Tizeranderie, de la, g 4

Tonnellcrie, dc la, f 4

Tonr, de la, h 3

Toor-d'Anvergne, de la, f 2
BO

>d by Google

• WISk

' Toor-dei-PflttM* de It, • B

TonraiDe, de, e 4
Tooraine, de, i 5
Tonrrielle, de la, t •
Tournelles, des, h 4
19 Tourniquet, St. J*ail| «», 6*
Tournon, de, f i
Tracy, de, g i
Trainee, f 4

Transnonaln, c 3
Traverse, de, d 5

Traver?iire, h ff
TravertfidTc, e 3
Traversine, f 5
Tripperet, g 6-
0 Trogndft, f 4

Trois-Bornef, de«, h 3
0 Trois-Canettes, de8, f «
3 Troi*.€hai»delUer», dw, f »
G Trois-Courotmea, dei, g 6
Troie-Coorottnea, dc», 6 j a
Troi»-Fr^fe«,dei, e»
51 Trois-Manres, dcs, f 4
9 Trois-Maures, des, g 4

Troia-PavUlons, des, g 4
6 Trois-Pistoleta, des, g 5
80 Trois»»I*ofte«, dCfc, f 3
Trousse-Vache, f 4
Tronv^e, h 5
Trndon, e 2
34Tuerie, dela,f4 , , ^^
Toreime, de, see St. LoQtt, h 4

Ulm, d% f 6
University, de P, e 4

Sniversit^, de 1*. d e 4
rseiioes, des, f 6

VaWe-GrtHJe,do,f«
Valols, de, d «
Valols, de, f 8
Yalois, de, e 4
Vannerie, de la, g 4

6 Yannes, de, f 4

S Yannes, St. g 3

0 Yarennes, de, f 4
YareiJnes, de, d 4 T
Vangirard, de, d e f • «
^'enddtae, de, ^ n 3

VenlBe,di», g4
Yentadoor, de, e 3
Yerdelet,f3
^Yerderet,f3
Verneuii, de, e 4
Yerreric, de la, g 4
Yersailles, de, g 6
Yert-Bois, du, g 8
Yertus, de», g 3
Yiaimes, de, f 4
9 Yide-Govsset, f 3
Yictoire, de ta, t€§ ChftaCe-

reine, e f 2
Victor, St., f B 3 6
Yieilles-Andriettes, det, g 4
26 Yieille-Bonclenc, de la, f ff
Yiciile-Draperle, de la, f «
Yieille-Estrapade, de la, f «
Yieilles-Etaves, des,f 4
Yeilles-Etuves, des, g 4
20 Yieilles-Garnisons, deS| g 4
34 Yieilie-Harebgerie, de U, f 4
34 Yeille-Lanteme, de la, f 4

YieiUe-l<ietre-D«me, g 6
26 Yieille-Flace wax Ycavac, dc

la,f4
34 YieiUe-Tannerie, de la, f 4
Yieille-Rde da Temple, (4
YieiU^s-Tuileriea, dea,«5
Yieree, de la, c 4
Yieax-Augustins, drti t S
Yi^x-Colomlrfer, dn, • A
Yignes, des, « 3
Yignes, des, g f
Yilledot, e 3

Ville-l'EvfeqM* de la, 4 « S
YilUot, h6

Yinaigriers, des, g h * 3
4 Yincent-de-Panle, Sti • 4

Yivienne, f 3
8 Yoirie, de la, h 3
Yoirie,deU,gl
Yoirie,dela,dt
Yoltaire, de, f 8
Yosgef, des, see Royale, li 4
YrimAre,d«U,f 3

W.
8 YTertiDgeB, see Fnnttab. • 4

S7,Zadiarii^f6

>d by Google

RUELLES.

Beanregaro, f t
.'Bnvette-ChampAtre, de la, ct
Ferme-de-Grenelle, de la, c 5
Crobelins, des, g 7
Jardiniers, des, J 0
Jardiniert, dea, h 4
Jean-Boaton, de, h j 5
Li\a8, des, h 4
Moulin Joli, dn, j 8

Pel^, h 4

Planchette, de ia, j G
Qnatre-CbemlDS, del, j k 6
Rue-Projet^e, de la, c 4
Sabin, St. h 4
Sourdis, de, g 4
Trois-Chandelles, des, j 0
TroisSabreg, de», k 8

CUL-DE-SACS.

38 Amboise, d*, f 5
*1 Anglais, des, g 4 "
t8 Argenson, d', g 4

Argenteaii, d*, e «
8 Anmont, d*, g 5
6 Babillards, des, g 8

Basfonr, de, g 3

Baadin, e 2
18 Beanfort, de, g 4
3% Beaudoirie, de la, g 4

8 Benott, St., g 4
Bernard, St., j 5

*. Berthand, g 4
' Biset, e 2
Blauchissenses, des, e 8
28 Boenf, du, g 4
41 Boeofs, des, f 5
0 Bon-Pults, dn, g 5

Boule-Ronge, de la, f 3
V Boardonnus, des, f 4
Bonteille, de la, f 3

9 Bonvart, f 5

8 Brasserie, de la, e 3

Briare, de, f 2
8 Cargafsons, des, f S
5 Carmelites, des. 1 0
r Catherine, Ste., g 3

Cen^rier, dn, e S

Charbonniers, des, b ff
5 Obat-Blanc, dn, f 4
r Cherallerdn-Gnet, da^ f 4
18 Clade, St., f 3

Clande, St^ b 4

Clrade, St., h 9

24 Clairvanx, de, g 4
17 Conti. f 4

Coqiienard, f 2

25 Coquerelle, g 4

9 Corderie, de la, c 3
30 Cour-de-Rohan, de la, f 8

9 Conrbiton, du, f 4

Coypel, f 2
35 Croix, S4e., g 4

7 Dandrelas, g 6
Dominique, St., f 5
Ecbiquier, de I* g 4
Egoat, de 1', g 3
BoAintJ^us, de V, d 6
Etoile, de P, d 4

12 Etoile, de 1', f 3
24 Staves, des, f
20 Faron, St., s 4

Ferme-des<Mattiurini,de U*«< 3

8 F^ron, e $1
Feaillantines, det» f 8

15 Fiacre, St., f 4

Fiacre, St., h 8 * ;

9 Filles-Dien, des, g 8
Forge-Royale, de la, j 5

27 Fonrcy, de, g 4

Orand-St. Michel, du, g 2
I K Ck-enelle, de, d 4
1 Grtoetat. g 3
4 Grosse^Tdte, de la, g 8

Qn^m^n^e, h 5
S7 Guanine, g 4
a Hantfort, f «
nB^aumerl* d«U,f4

>d by Google

COL M SA08.

t UmjpHOikm, det, b 4

|«ui-Be«iuire, h 4
t J«ntMleint de, f S
• Undry,St.,f4

Latfnay, de, J 4

Ltorent, St., g 3

Laure, St., % %

Longne-Avoine, de, e T

lioolt, St., h 8
tS Maelolre, St., f 4

Mvais-Ronge*, dos. g 9
4 March^nxChcTau, do, g 6
It Murine, 8te.,f5
10 Martial, St., f 4

Martin, St., g 3
IS Manconseil, f 3

Mont-Parna8»e, du, e 6 -
If Mont-Thabor, da, e 3

Morlaiz, hS

Mortagne, dc, j 5
48 Kevert, de, f 4
ft Nicolas, St., g 3
1 Opportune, Ste., f 4
99 Paon, da, f 5

Patriarcbef , des, f g 0
8 Peintret, des, g 8

Peowijr, g 4
9 Fedte-r "

BastiUe, dela,f4

4Plert^«t»,1i*^ '"^^
14 Pierre, St., f 3 *^*
Plandiette,del»,g»--*
Plumct, d 5
4 Poitsonneri e, de la, ^ 4^
Pompe, de la, g 8 ;

9 Provenccaox, dei.f 4
10 Puit»4le-Rome, da, g t
88 Putigneaz, g 4

Qnatre-VenlB, des, f 5
Keservoirs, des, b 8
Beailly. de, j 5 " •
38 B6llln>prend-Gaf e&, f 4
Roqaette, de la, h 4
Rac-Projet^e, de la, e^ S
Sabin, St., h4 ;

SS Salembriire, f 5
S^basticn, St.,h4
5 Soeurs, des, g 8
0 Sonrdh, dc, f 4
9 Treille, de la, f 4
• Trois-FrAres, des, h 5
19 Trois.Visages, des, f 4
Venise, de, g 4
9 VersaiUes, de,|4
. Vert-Buisson, do, c 4 ,
.Vleilles-Toileries, del, • 5
YiS»«B» des, f 6

PASSAGES.

. 1 Ancre-NatioBale, de l», g 8

14 Ancien-GrandiCerf . de r, f 3

15 Hubert, g 8

18 Beanfort, de, g 4
10 Benott, St., f 5

9 Benott, St., e S
18 Bcis de-Bualogne> da, g 3
15 Bonnefoi, f 3

S Boale-Blancbe, de la, h 5

1 Boitle-Konge, de la. f 3

1 Caf^e-foi, do, f 3
Calre, da, f g 3
Cendrier, do, e 3
90 Chartreux, des, f 4

7 Ch61eU. des, f 5 '
13 Cirque-Olympiqae, do, c8
•0 Cloln^. Honors, da, f 4
Clottre-St. Jacqoes I'Hop, f 3

10 Commerce, da, g3 "
31 Cour-Batare, de la, f 4

30 Coor-dn-Commerce, de la, f 5
15 Coar-do-Dragon, de laj e 5
Coar-da-Puits-de-Rome, de la,

K3
Conr-do-R^tiro, dc la.d 3 '
8 Coiir-dcs-M!racl«,d* Hi, h 4
80 Cour-de-Rohan, de la, f 5
35 Croix.de la-BretonneH*,- Ste.,

g4 U

If Dames-S. Chaum<Mlt/^leB, g 3
Desir, dn, g 3
T Eostache, St., f 3

Feydcan, f 3
3 Foire-St. Lanrent, deja, g 3

11 Galerie-de-l*Orme, do la, e 8
1 Geaty,h6

>d by Google

pjUuiAess<

8 GaiIItiBM»SC.»jel|.
1« Onmf t'erf, dn, g 3 •

€r«i4-Cliantler de HvoU, dn,
• 1
S5 HAlel d'Alisde, de 1% f 4

H6tel-de8 Fenoes, de 1% f 3
83 Jeo-dePaume; do, f 4
1ft JmflieDne, de la, f 3
Itf Lemoine, i; 3
19 Longae-All^e, de la, { 3
7 Lonii, St g4

Lnxcmbonrf;, dn, e 6
ta Madeleine, de la, f 4

Manage, du, e 5

Marie, Ste., e 4
14 Meuageries, des, f 3
30 Moli^re, de, g 4
SO Montesquieu, de, f 4

Noir, f 4

JPanoramM, des, f 3

0Pe(I(MP4r€t,d«t,f8
1 Perron, dn, f .1
20 Petit-.St. Antoine, do, g 4
10 PetitcBoucherie, de la, e 8
Petfte«-Ecuries, des, g »
Pierre, St., g 5
Pompe-^-feu, de la, c 3
9 Qninze.Vingts, des, e 4
Kadziwill, f 3
90 Reine-de.Hongrie, de la, f 3
B^tiro, dn, see conr id, d 3
31 H^union, de la, g 4
Roch, St., e 3
Saumon, dn, f 3
Sannier, f 2
1 Solcil-d'Or, dn, e 2
1 Trinity, de la f 3
Vartcteg, des, e 3
10 Vigan, du, f 3

PLACES.

81 Andr^es^Arts, St., f 5
1 Angonldme, d', h 3
Antoine, St., see Bastille, b 5
Ansterlite, d\see Museum, f 4
* Bastille, de la, h 5

17 Baudoyer, g 4

1 BeauTeau, de, d 8
Bretenil, de, d 5

IS Caire, dn,f 3

18 Cambrav, de, f 5 .

aroosel, do, e 4
rr^-Ste., Genevieve, da, f 4
Carreau-de-la-Halle, do, f 4
84 CMtdet, da, f 4
7 Cltevalier-du^net, do, f 4
S Coll^ale,dela. g4
CloBcorde, de U, see Louit-lff
d 4

2 l^rois, Ste. e 4
Danphine, f 4

Popleix, b e5
( Beole, de 1', r 4

fS Ecolt-de.Me(^ecine, de P, f 8

3 Estrapadc, de I', f 6
n Eastache, St., f 3

t Fid^Ht^, de la, g 2
FoBteooy, d«, 1 8 ^

4 Fonrey, de, f 6
1 Gastine, f 4
36 Germain I'AuxenroM, St. 1 4

11 Germain-des-Pr^, St«, e 5
Hfipital St. Antoine, de 1', j 5
H6tel-de-yille, do P, g 4

13 Italiens, dn, f 3

28 Jacques de la Boncherie, St ,f4

- Louis 15, de, d 3
Louvre, du, f 4

* March^nx-Veanx, du, g 5
March^ de Beanvean, dn, j 8
Marche-des.Tnnorent8, dn, f 4

12 March^^esJacobins, dn, e 3
Marche-St. Jean, dn, g 4
Marche-Ste. Catlieiine, dn, g 4
Marengo, de, see Oratoire, f 4

12 Marguerite, Ste., e 5

Maubert, f5

Maras, h 5
88 Michel, St., f 5
% MoothotoB, de, f 2
11 Norland, g 5

Museum dn, f 4

Nievlas des Champs, St*, c 8

Od^on, de r, f 5 '*

OpportoiM Ste., f4

>d by Google

Fueif.

OntoifVf if ly / 4

Palaii Bonrbon, do, d 4
4t Palate dc Jattkc, du, f 4
S8 Palali Royal, do, f 4

Patttbcon* da, f ft

Parrls-Notre-Dame, da, f f
9 PHit»-P^rf«< del, f 8
96 Pont4;t. Michel, da, f ft

RiToli, de. e ft
17 llat(Hide-dn.Teinple, de la, { ft

Soyale, h 4
0 Sdpion, de» g 6

Sorboiii}t,4«,fS
8alpice, St., • 5
TUonviUe, d«, MtDafipkiBe«
f4

4 Thoina»4'Aqaia, St, 1 4
00 Trois.Mariet, dea, f 4

Tr6ne, dn, k 5

5 Yannes, St, g 8
Yaaban, de, d 5
yend6m«. • 8
Yictoiret, oca, f f

CARREFOURS

• BenMt, St., e 5

Bouy, de, 1 5
IS BntteSt. Roch, de la, e 8*
13 Croix Roage, de la, e ft

Gaillon, de, c

84 OflAnn. de P, f ff

1 R«tiUt7,dt,j5

BOULEVARDS.

Antolne, St., h 4
Bonnc-Nouvclle, oe, f g 3
Bonrdon, h 5
Capacines, des, e 8
Denis, St., g 3
Enfer, d', e 6

FiUcs-dD.Ca1vaire, des, h 4
Gobelins, des, f g 7
H6piul,de,g0 7

Invalidet, dci, h 4 9
Ilaliens, des, e f 3
Jacanes, St., e f T "
Madeleine, de la« t S
Martin, St., g 8
Montmartre, f 8
Mont-Parnasae, di, 4 • • '
Poissoimi^re. f f
Temple, difk 8

AntiD, d% d 8

ALLEES.

Yo«tct»4Mj«4f

AVENUES

Amnal, de 1% h ft
Bel-Air, dn,k ft
Bo«rdonnay«, de la, c 4
Bretenil, de. d ft
CoarsJa-Reine, da, c d 8
L«wendal, de T, c ft
Mand^-St., de, k ft 0
}f arignv, de, d 8
Molte-Piquet, delate 4 5

KeniHy, de, c d 8
Onnes, des, k •
Sax«, de, d ft
S^gnr, de, d f
' Snffren, de, c ft
Tonnrille, de, c d 5
Trinmphes^des, k 0
Yillars ^ii

>d by Google

QUAIS.

AleB^, ^t m ll6arD6ii, % 5

XB}Qn, d*, e 5

Arihev^ch*, de 1% f g 9

Bernard, 8t., g ff

Bethane, d«, g 5

BignoD, t 9

Bonaparte, see Orsay, d e •<

Bourbon, de, g 5

Celestines, des, g 5

Cit^, dela, f g4 5

Conference, oe U^ c d 3

Conti, de, f 4

Debilly, b 4

Pesdix, f 4

Ecole, de V, 1 4

F^raiUe, de Ut ^^0 M^giiMlie,

f4
Gdvres, de, f 4
Grands-Augnstins, des, f 4
Gr6ve, de Ta, g 4
Hdpital, de l%li 0

Horioge', de V, f 4

Arte, des, f 4
Change, an, f 4

35 Charles, St. f 5
Cite, de la, t 9
Concorde, de to, S€$
d 34

38 Donbles, tux, f 5
Gramraont, de, g 9
luvalides, des, b 4

Bled, ta, t 4
It Mail, da, g 9

Nicolas, St., «4
13 Paal, St., g 9

Inyalidet,. des, sie Orsiy, « d 4

Louvre, du, • f 4

Lunettes, des, see Horloge, f 4

Malaqnais, e 4

M^gUserie, de la, f 4

Monnaie, de la, see Conti, f 4

Montebello, de, see Blgnon.f 9

Morland, g h 5

Kapoleon, see Cit^, f g 4 9

Orfevrcs, des, f 4

Orleans, d*, g 9

OrmeiB, des, g 9

Orsay, d', b c d e 4

Paul, St., g 9

Pelletier, f g 4

R*pee, de U, h 6

Tournelle, de la. e 9

Tuileries, des, e 4

Valine, de la, see Gr. Aasns-

tins, f 4 *

Voltaire, de, e 4

PONTS.

Lottls-16,

PORTS.

Jardin da Roi, da, h 0
Louis-16, de, d 3 4
Marie, g 9
Michel, St., f 9
Neuf, f 4 .
Notre-Darae, f 4
Petit-Pont,f9
Royal, e 4
Tournelle, de la, g 9

P^ei, des Stt*. « 4
14 TuUes, auz, g S
, Vins, aux, g 9

HALLES.

C Bled, aa, f 4

9 Cuirs, anx, t g

94 Draps, aox, f 4

39 Laines, aox, f •
Yins, auz, g 9

14 Abbaye-8t. Germain*
2 Agaesseao, d', d 3
B«ainr«Hi, da, f 9 *

S2 BUncs-Maotaiaz, dai
9 BoolaiiiTUUcn, e 4

MARCHES.

der, 1 9 Garmet, dea. 1 5

Catherine, Site., ;

Chevaoz, aaz, g 0
9% Enfans-Kooeas, dec, g4 -
Flenrs, aaz, see Qoai Deaaix*' 4

>d by Google

COURS — BAaUBRES.

S9GiMer«aa,r4'

iMKMenta, dei, f 4
It Jacobiut, des, e 8

Je«n, St., g 4
M JoMph, St., f 3

Martin, St., g t

Place-Mmbcrt, d« la, f tf .
Porte St. Oenia, de U, g S
Porte-St. Martin, de la, g 3
15 Rue de-S«Trcs, de la,dje S
Veaux, aux, g fi
YieaZ'Iinge, a», g 3

ENCLOS.

It JeaAHk-Latran, St/f 5 | 1 Trinity, de la, g 3

CLOITRES.

10 BflBott, St., f 5

30 German I'Aaxerroia, St.,f 4

39 Honore, St., t 4

13 J«

Mqae8-la>Boacherie, SL* m*
PlaceMeaa,f4
18 Opportune, Ste., tee Pino*
idem, f 4

COURS.

19 Albiet, d', f 5
1 Arsenal, de 1% h 8
31 BaUve, f 4
46 ChapeUe, de la ^te., f 4

7 Cholets, dca, f 5
Commerce, de, f 4

30 Commerce, dn, f 5
Commerce, du, g 3
IS Dragon, dn, e 5

40 Fontaines, des, f 4

8 Gnillaome, St., e 3

41 Harlay, de, f 4

Joseph, h 5
3 Juiverie, de la, h t

18 JnsBienne, de la, f 3

41 Lamoignon, de, f 4

19 MarUn, St., g 3
% Miracles, det, f 3

42 Palais^eJosUce, dn, f 4
Palais-Roval, dn, f 3
Pnits-de-Uome, do, g 3

«0 Rohan, f 5
R^tiro, du, d 8

PORTES.

4 Antoine, St., d^moUe, h 5
10 Bernard, St., d^molit, g 5
Denia, St., g 8

14 Honore, St. d^molie, e 3
39 Jacqoes, St.,d^moUe,f 6 .
MarUn, St., g 3

BARRIERES.

Amandicrs, dea, J 4
Arca^l, d', e 7
Aunay, d', f 4
Bassina, des, b 8
Belleville, de, h 8
Bcrcy, do, j 6
Blanche, e 1
Boyauterie, dela,l>t
Charenton, de, J 6
Chartree, de, female, d%
CiiO|>to«te,dela,lit

Clichy, de, e 1
Combat, da, h 3
Conrcelles, de, c t
Croolebarbe, de, f 7
Cnnette, de la, b 4

Denis, at., g 1

Benx MonUns, dea, g 7

Ecole MiUtaire, de 1*, e 5

Enfer, d', c 7

Etoile, de 1', see Nenillv, c 2

Voii«ineMea%d^«M IttUe, g 7

>d by Google

I'AtAJS.

Jacques, St., see ArcacW, %1
Long-Gbamps, d«, I) d
VMaine, da, d 6
5Nand^, de St., k 0'
Marengo, de, ste Charenloa

UlarJe, Ste.y1>4
Martin, St., set TiHetle^, k 1
Mwrtyrs, dea, f 1
Menllmontant, de, j 3
Montmartre, f 1
Mont-Parnasse, dn, e 6
Montreuii, de, k 5
Moaceaoz, de, d 2
Neuilly, de, 0 2

Onrsine,d«l'«4f7
Pantin, de, bt 1 > -

PaillasMns, dea;tenll2«^ • 9
Paasy, de, b 4
Picpns, de, k 0
Poissonni^re, f I"
Rap^e, de la, h 0
Ramponean, j 3
Rats, des, ferm^e, j 4
Reservoirs, d6s, tf Btniill

ferm^e, b 3
Henilly, de, k 0
Rochechoaard, de k, f 1
Ronle, da, c 2
Sante, de la, f 7
Sevres, de, d 6
TroisCouronnes, des, j 8 .
Tr6ne, da, see VtneeiuiM, It •
Yaogirard, de, d 6
Ycrtns, dee, ferm^e, b I
Villette, de la, h 1
Yiucemies, de, k 5

ABATTOIRS.

Crenelle, dc, d 5]
M^niimontaat, d^ i 4
Montmartre, de,f 1 ,

Ronle, da, d 2
YiU»ltti^d«,gr

PALAIS.

Tailertcf,d«t,e4>

Louvre, da, f 4

Cbambre dei Fai|r8. de la, 1 8

Cbambre des DeptuM, see

fioorbon, d 4
Royal, f 3
£oorb«a, d 4

Elys^e-Bonrbon, de V, dt

4| JptUee, de, f 4

Beaox-Artf, des, 1 4
t L^on-d^bonneor, dt It^ € 4
Arcbi^piaeo^ g5
Boarte,d«M,f S

HOPITAUX DE^ MALADES

te H6teM)lefi,'der.f«.

Piti^, de la, K «
SI Eoole d« M«d«fettte, d« I « r 6
CharH^, de la, e 4
St. Aotolne, j 5
Cochin, f 7 '

Necker,d5f
Bcaajon, c 2

St. Lonis, h 2 ~
YinMeBa,de^f6

MAISONg DE SANTE.

I]lMdafiE.St'JaiqMbfe RMdaff. SteMwrtfq^ga

>d by Google

M HOPITAUX MIUTAIRES.

IsfalidM, dM, d « iIaUondetOtoeni,tfek,45

MAISONS DE RETRATTE.

Moalro«ceo^USant£,de,e7 Ste. Pdriat, i Cbaillot, dt, c S

HOSPICES D'INDIGENS.

▲vewlcs. uz 15-20, det, b S Bic«tre. hon de Parb

BoarMittB, de», f 6 lacnraHes, fenniet, det> 44

Jlalantil^,aGcoochctneot,dela4 JmrnnMei, |i<Hiime« dta, ( %

€ 0 Orphelinftydes, h 5

MaCeniite, Bllaitement, de la. If enages, des, e 5

f0 « CeittraledeUyacdae,fS/

SalparUre, de la, g k d

PRISONS CIVILES.

fiktoe, hon d« Paris, de S. Lacare, g 2 . ,

4S CoAciergerie, de la, f 4 Madelonnettes, det, g S '

GraMie et FeOte Pcrc^, de la, Ste. P^Ugie, 9 6

PRISONS MILITAIRES

IS Al>bigrc!»der,eS 9foBtai|^ de, f 9

MAIRIES.

ler. Arrojwfl«j€menf . , te. Ari^ondisHment. '

Rm da Faubottrg, St. Uonor^, Rae St. Martin, 4 U Ci^evant
, Ko.14 ' Abbaye.

^<>' * 8€. ArrtMdiisemeitt.

80. Arrvndlstetmnt, Place Royaie, No. 14. , ■

JUxPetil».PAm, Place dea Tic Qe.Arr^f^issement.

toim. Rae de Jooy, Nd. tf.

40, Arron^^ement. ^^ ^^ VeHieail, No. 13.
Place, da Cheva!lcr da Gn^. . ue. Ammdissemnt. ,

I No. 14 ^g ^^ ^ i^,^ Colombier, No. Stiw

ie, Arrendissement, 12e. ArroittttMcmCTif,

Roe Grange aaz Belles, No. 2 Rae St. Jacques, N9. 20».

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POST ROADS of EUROPE, being a Translation of the
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